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EP3138944B1 - Spitzenstoff und verfahren zum stricken von spitzenstoff - Google Patents

Spitzenstoff und verfahren zum stricken von spitzenstoff Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3138944B1
EP3138944B1 EP16187528.1A EP16187528A EP3138944B1 EP 3138944 B1 EP3138944 B1 EP 3138944B1 EP 16187528 A EP16187528 A EP 16187528A EP 3138944 B1 EP3138944 B1 EP 3138944B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fiber
yarn
yarns
lace fabric
fabric
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP16187528.1A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP3138944A1 (de
Inventor
Yasuhiko Motoya
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Miyagi Lace Co Ltd
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Miyagi Lace Co Ltd
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Publication date
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Publication of EP3138944A1 publication Critical patent/EP3138944A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/10—Open-work fabrics
    • D04B21/12—Open-work fabrics characterised by thread material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B21/08—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04C—BRAIDING OR MANUFACTURE OF LACE, INCLUDING BOBBIN-NET OR CARBONISED LACE; BRAIDING MACHINES; BRAID; LACE
    • D04C1/00—Braid or lace, e.g. pillow-lace; Processes for the manufacture thereof
    • D04C1/02—Braid or lace, e.g. pillow-lace; Processes for the manufacture thereof made from particular materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04C—BRAIDING OR MANUFACTURE OF LACE, INCLUDING BOBBIN-NET OR CARBONISED LACE; BRAIDING MACHINES; BRAID; LACE
    • D04C1/00—Braid or lace, e.g. pillow-lace; Processes for the manufacture thereof
    • D04C1/06—Braid or lace serving particular purposes
    • D04C1/08—Tulle fabrics
    • D04C1/10—Pattern tulle fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D06P3/8219—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing hydroxyl and amide groups
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/14—Dyeability

Definitions

  • a gradation lace in which a hue sequentially changes in a width direction thereof is known.
  • an original fabric is obtained by knitting a lace having a predetermined background color (typically, white), and one end in a width direction of the original fabric is immersed in a dye, whereby dyeing is performed.
  • a dye typically, white
  • it is necessary to change the extent of dyeing in a lace width direction and for example, in a case where the lace width direction end side is dyed strongly and the inside side is dyed weakly, the dyeing density is changed by making the time of immersion in the dye longer going toward the width direction end side.
  • the adjustment of the dyeing time is an operation such as immersing the width direction end side for a long time in a single dyeing operation, or increasing the number of times of dyeing (the number of times of immersion in the dye) going toward the width direction end side.
  • EP 1 111 111 relates to a warp knit and method of knitting the same.
  • JP 2003 041465 relates to a warp knitted fabric with brilliance of iridescent color.
  • Patent Document 1 dyeing is performed through complicated stages (Patent Document 1), or the manufacturing of a special twisted yarn is required (Patent Document 2).
  • Patent Document 3 it is not possible to obtain a lace in which a hue sequentially changes.
  • An object of the present invention is to obtain a technique in which a gradation lace-like lace which has been conventionally obtained only through a dyeing process by hand working is reasonably and easily obtained, whereby patterning which is required for a lace is possible and it is possible to deal with mass-production.
  • Another object of the present invention is to obtain a lace fabric in which a hue sequentially changes not only in a width direction of the lace fabric, but also in a knitting direction of the lace fabric.
  • the lace fabric having this configuration is provided with the same yarn-type yarn passage part which is interwoven over a plurality of wales on the same course, in the unit area which is configured to be provided with a predetermined number of courses. That is, a site (an area) in which the same yarn type (in other words, yarns which are dyed to the same hue) extends in a course direction which is the width direction of the lace fabric is formed, and with respect to different yarn types, the same yarn-type yarn passage parts of different yarn types are disposed to be distributed in the knitting direction of the lace fabric.
  • the same yarn-type yarn passage parts of two yarn types may be disposed to be evenly distributed in a form such as every course or every two courses in the knitting direction of the lace fabric, and the same yarn-type yarn passage parts may be disposed while changing the length or the appearance proportion of the same yarn-type yarn passage part, or both of them, in accordance with the form of an intended pattern.
  • the gradation-like weave in which the density of the first fiber is sequentially increased in at least three stages with respect to the density of the second fiber in the comparison between the unit areas which are disposed in the width direction of the lace fabric is made.
  • the proportion of the same yarn-type yarn passage part changes in a stepwise fashion, whereby it is possible to make a configuration in which the density becomes, for example, high with respect to the first fiber (becomes, for example, low with respect to the second fiber).
  • a unit area in which there is 100% of the first fiber and 0% of the second fiber may be formed, and a unit area in which there is 0% of the first fiber and 100% of the second fiber may be formed.
  • an area in which the first fiber is included in a predetermined percentage and the second fiber is included in a corresponding percentage is present.
  • the first fiber and the second fiber which have different dyeing affinities exhibit different hues due to dyeing by a specific dye. Further, the densities of these fibers are sequentially changed in at least three stages, and therefore, a lace fabric exhibiting an external appearance similar to gradation can be obtained simply by uniformly dyeing the whole of the knitted lace fabric.
  • the respective fibers have the intended specific colors by using a dye with respect to the first fiber and using a different dye with respect to the second fiber.
  • the lace fabric having this configuration can be knitted by a method having a feature that in order to sequentially increase the density of the first fiber with respect to the density of the second fiber in the comparison between the unit areas, the greater the density of the first fiber in the area needs to be, the further the number of same yarn-type yarn passage parts which include the first fiber is increased.
  • the adjustment of the density of the first fiber and the density of the second fiber can be performed with a simpler technique by the adjustment of the number of courses with respect to the number of courses which include the first fiber which is included in the unit area which includes a predetermined number of courses, and the number of courses which include the second fiber which is included in the unit area, and thus it is possible to relatively easily obtain the intended gradation lace.
  • the same yarn-type yarn passage part is formed as a same yarn-type continuous part in which the wefts or the interweaving yarns which are of the same yarn type and are different are continuous in the width direction of the lace fabric and that the greater the density of the first fiber in the area needs to be, the further the number of same yarn-type continuous parts in the knitting direction of the lace fabric is increased.
  • the lace fabric having this configuration can be knitted by a method having the feature that the same yarn-type yarn passage part is formed as the same yarn-type continuous part in which the wefts or the interweaving yarns which are of the same yarn type and are different are continuous in the width direction of the lace fabric, and the greater the density of the first fiber in the area needs to be, the further the number of same yarn-type continuous parts in the knitting direction of the lace fabric is increased.
  • the part (area) is formed by a single weft or a single interweaving yarn or formed by a plurality of wefts or a plurality of interweaving yarns, is not mentioned (in other words, it is not limited).
  • a limit to the number of wales in which a single weft or a single interweaving yarn can perform a traverse for example, in the case of a Leavers machine, the number of wales is 5). Therefore, if the same yarn-type yarn passage part is formed by only a single weft or a single interweaving yarn, a limit occurs in the length thereof.
  • the length in the lace fabric width direction of the same yarn-type yarn passage part can be freely adjusted, and thus the degree of gradation (the degree of change of a color in the width direction) can be freely adjusted and the selectivity of a pattern is also remarkably improved.
  • the same yarn-type continuous part can have a configuration in which it is continuously knitted in the width direction of the lace fabric by making a number of wefts or interweaving yarns corresponding to the number of wales which are disposed in the width direction of the lace fabric perform a traverse.
  • a lace fabric specific to this application can be realized, for example, by making the weft or the interweaving yarn which is sequentially interwoven between wales adjacent to each other the same yarn type.
  • a third fiber is used for a yarn of a part of the weft or the interweaving yarn
  • a fourth fiber is used for a yarn of the other part of the weft or the interweaving yarn, which is different from the weft or the interweaving yarn composed of the third fiber
  • a fiber thicker than the fourth fiber is used as the third fiber
  • the lacing fabric having this configuration can be realized by using a third fiber for a yarn of a part of the weft or the interweaving yarn, using a fourth fiber for a yarn of the other part of the weft or the interweaving yarn, which is different from the weft or the interweaving yarn composed of the third fiber, using a fiber thicker than the fourth fiber as the third fiber, and forming, with regard to the knitting weave in the knitting direction of the lace fabric, the area in which the density of the third fiber is higher than the density of the fourth fiber in the comparison between the unit areas in the knitting direction.
  • the technique described hitherto is a technique for applying gradation in the lace fabric width direction.
  • the third fiber and the fourth fiber in the knitting direction and changing the thickness of a yarn, it becomes possible to apply a change to a hue after dyeing according to a change in density, even in a configuration using the same type of fiber.
  • the thicker a yarn (the higher the density), the thicker a hue becomes, and the thinner a yarn (the lower the density), the thinner a hue becomes.
  • each of the third fiber and the fourth fiber may be either of the first fiber or the second fiber described previously, and another yarn type may be adopted.
  • another yarn type may be adopted.
  • a gradation lace which this application intends to obtain can be obtained by mechanically knitting a lace by providing a gradation-like change to the density of each of the first fiber and the second fiber per unit area by utilizing the same yarn-type yarn passage part (the same yarn-type continuous part) in a weave design stage of a lace fabric, and carrying out a predetermined dyeing operation. That is, it is possible to reveal any gradation at a fixed location.
  • Fig. 1A is a diagram showing an external appearance when a lace fabric 1 which is a warp knitted fabric is viewed from the front surface side.
  • the color tone of the lace fabric 1 which is a warp knitted fabric sequentially transitions in a width direction D1 of the lace fabric, in an external appearance, as also shown in the drawings.
  • the color tones of both right and left end sites Ze, both intermediate sites Zm on the inside thereof, and central sites Zc on the inside thereof sequentially change.
  • the enlargement of the weave of a section A in this drawing is shown in Fig. 4
  • the enlargement of the weave of a section B is shown in Fig. 6 .
  • Fig. 5 is an enlarged view of the weave of an area Zm in Fig. 4 .
  • the enlargement factor of Fig. 6 is smaller than the enlargement factor of Fig. 4 .
  • FIG. 2A A weave in a case where the Leavers lace fabric 1 is viewed from the knitted fabric front surface side is shown in Figs. 2A and 2B .
  • a bobbin yarn 7 (yarn type: nylon, thickness: a range of 30 to 50 deniers) which forms a foundation of the weave and extends in a knitting direction D2 which is referred to as a wale W in a warp knitted fabric is provided as a warp
  • a back warp BW (yarn type: nylon covered yarn with polyurethane as a core, thickness: a range of 140 to 420 deniers) is interwoven with the bobbin yarn 7 in the width direction of the knitted fabric.
  • a front warp FW (yarn type: nylon, thickness: a range of 30 to 50 deniers) is interwoven on the front side of the back warp BW.
  • the back warp BW and the front warp FW serve as wefts for configuring a base weave 4 (a net N) of a warp knitted fabric.
  • a weaving direction of each of the back warp BW and the front warp FW, or a gimp yarn 8 and a liner yarn 9 (both of which will be described later) becomes the width direction D1 of the lace fabric, which is orthogonal to the knitting direction D2 described previously.
  • a yarn stroke motion of each of the back warp BW and the front warp FW is to making interweaving proceed by performing a traverse between the bobbin yarns 7 adjacent to each other or between a predetermined number of bobbin yarns 7 in the same course C
  • the back warp BW has a form in which it is located on the back surface side of the bobbin yarn 7 when the yarn performs a rightward traverse with respect to the bobbin yarn 7, and located on the front surface side of the bobbin yarn 7 at the time of a leftward traverse, when viewed from the front surface side of a knitted fabric, as shown in Fig. 2A .
  • the front warp FW is knitted so as to be located on the front surface side at the time of a rightward traverse with respect to the bobbin yarn 7 and be located on the back surface side at the time of a leftward traverse.
  • the base weave 4 of the Leavers lace fabric 1 is completed with the bobbin yarn 7 (a warp), the back warp BW (a weft), and the front warp FW (a weft). Further, in the Leavers lace fabric 1, for the purpose of patterning or the like, with respect to the base weave 4, the gimp yarn 8 (yarn type: cation, nylon, cotton, or the like, thickness: a range of about 50 to 150 deniers) is inserted between the front warp FW and the back warp BW, and the liner yarn 9 (yarn type: nylon, cation, cotton, or the like, thickness: about 300 deniers) is inserted on the front surface side of the front warp FW, as shown in Fig. 2B .
  • Fig. 2B is a weave in which a single representative gimp yarn 8 and a single representative liner yarn 9 are inserted in the base weave 4 of Fig. 2A .
  • the same yarn stroke motion as that of the back warp BW described previously is performed in the gimp yarn 8
  • the same yarn stroke motion as that of the front warp FW is performed in the liner yarn 9.
  • the number of gimp yarns 8 is generally about 60 pieces and the number of liner yarns 9 is also generally about 60 pieces.
  • a hue that appears on the front surface side of the lace fabric 1 is regarded as a problem, and therefore, mainly, a yarn use (selection of a yarn type) of the liner yarn 9 becomes problematic. Further, the liner yarn 9 plays a major role in the formation of a pattern, and therefore, with respect to a weft, a thick yarn is adopted.
  • the Leavers lace fabric 1 is composed of a liner yarn layer 90, a front warp layer FWL, a gimp yarn layer 80, and a back warp layer BWL from the front surface side, as shown in Fig. 1B , if the knitted fabric is viewed in a thickness direction T thereof.
  • the positional relationship in a knitted fabric front-and-back direction between the respective yarns is determined by the positional relationship between reeds in a knitting operation.
  • the respective yarns are interwoven with each other to follow the configuration shown in Fig. 2B in the front-and-back direction.
  • a characteristic configuration of this application for obtaining gradation as shown in Fig. 1A in the Leavers lace fabric 1 will be described.
  • Figs 3A to 6 are appropriately used.
  • a yarn mainly, the liner yarn 9 described previously
  • an area in which the gimp yarn 8, the front warp FW, or the back warp BW is exposed also exists.
  • the Leavers lace fabric 1 As described hitherto, in the Leavers lace fabric 1 according to this application, two or more types of fibers which include at least a first fiber and a second fiber which have different dyeing affinities with respect to a specific dye are used as the weft (the back warp BW or the front warp FW), the interweaving yarn (the liner yarn 9 or the gimp yarn 8), or both of them,
  • a yarn which is exposed is described to be referred to as an "exposed yarn".
  • a combination of the first fiber and the second fiber is regarded as being, for example, a combination of nylon and cation.
  • a dye with respect to nylon, an acid dye is used, and with respect to cation, a cation dye is used.
  • a reactive dye is used in a case of using a cotton yarn or viscose rayon. Therefore, in a case where a knitted fabric which includes two types of yarns of these is dyed by the same dye, a color difference according to a yarn type is exposed.
  • dyeing may be performed by a single bath-dyeing, and dyeing may be sequentially performed by using the respective dyes.
  • dyeing by dyeing an original fabric knitted in a predetermined weave form, it is possible to obtain gradation which this application intends to obtain.
  • both end sites Ze are provided at both right and eft end sites in the width direction D1 of the lace fabric
  • the intermediate sites Zm are provided at both sites on the inside thereof
  • the central sites Zc are provided at the central site.
  • This example is an example in which an exposed yarn of each of both end sites Ze is set to be a cation single yarn type, exposed yarns of the intermediate site Zm are set to be a yarn use of cation and nylon, and an exposed yarn of the central site Zc is set to be a yarn use of a nylon single yarn type.
  • the thickness of each of yarns forming these patterns is about 300 deniers, because it is basically the liner yarn 9.
  • a fine yarn (fine with respect to the liner yarn) is used according to a yarn use of the site.
  • the expression, according to a yarn use of the site refers to using, for example, in a case where the liner yarn of a corresponding site is a nylon yarn, a fine nylon yarn for the front warp FW of the corresponding site, and using a fine nylon yarn or polyester yarn as the back warp BW.
  • a nylon fiber (an example of a third fiber; this yarn has a thickness of about 300 deniers, because it is the liner yarn 9) which is used in a part a2 is thicker than a nylon fiber (an example of a fourth fiber; this yarn has a thickness in a range of 30 to 40 deniers, because it becomes the front warp FW) which is used in a part a1 which is the net part N.
  • a knitting weave in the width direction D1 of the lace fabric is formed to be provided with a same yarn-type yarn passage part 2 in which the same yarn-type of yarn passes through the same course over a plurality of wales.
  • Figs. 3A to 3D are an explanatory example for facilitating the understanding of the characteristic configuration according to this application, and this example is an example in which the same yarn-type yarn passage part 2 is configured of a single liner yarn 9, and in each of the same yarn-type yarn passage parts 2, the liner yarn 9 performs reciprocating yarn passage with four wales W as a unit.
  • Figs, 3A to 3D are schematic diagrams in a case where a lace fabric is divided in the width direction D1 thereof, and the gist of the present invention can be easily understood by arranging these drawings sideways in the width direction D1. The same applies to Figs. 7A to 7D which will be described later.
  • the example shown in Fig. 1 is an example designed according to the same concept as that in Figs. 3A to 3D , and each of both end sites Ze adopts a configuration similar to Fig. 3A , and the central site Zc adopts a configuration similar to Fig. 3D .
  • the intermediate site Zm is configured by arranging the areas Zm1 and Zm2 and corresponds to each of Figs. 3B and 3C .
  • a variety of devisals are made with regard to the yarn stroke motion, the setting of the length in the lace fabric width direction D1 of the same yarn-type yarn passage part 2, or the like.
  • a straight line extending in a vertical direction indicates the position of the bobbin yarn 7 which is a warp in the Leavers lace fabric 1 (the position of the wale W), and a thick solid line corresponds to each of a plurality of cation liner yarns 9c, and a thick broken line corresponds to each of a plurality of nylon liner yarns 9n. Further, a fine solid line corresponds to each of a plurality of front warps FW and back warps BW.
  • Each of these lines shows a form of yarn passage of each yarn passing between the wales W.
  • a yarn stroke motion part of a pair of cation liner yarns 9c which is present at a left end of the drawing is an end ornament part 20 of the lace fabric 1, which is generally referred to as a "scallop".
  • One of both end sites Ze which has been described hitherto is shown on the inside thereof, and the intermediate site Zm (Zm1 and Zm2) and the central site Zc are located on the right thereof.
  • the yarn use (a difference in yarn use between cation and nylon) in these sites is as described previously.
  • an object of this application is also to adopt the following configuration in order to make the same yarn-type yarn passage part 2 have a distinctive distribution state.
  • Figs. 4 and 5 in addition to an example in which the same yarn-type yarn passage part 2 described in Figs. 3A to 3D is configured with a single liner yarn 9, an example in which the same yarn-type yarn passage parts 2 are configured with a plurality of liner yarns 9 to be continuous in the width direction D1 of the lace fabric is also shown.
  • Fig. 5 is enlargement of an area shown by Zm in the lace fabric width direction D1 and shown by E in the knitting direction D2 in Fig. 4 .
  • the same yarn-type yarn passage part 2c of cation is continuously formed at a location elevated by four courses from the bottom of the drawing, and the liner yarns 9c, 9c, and 9c which are of the same yarn type and are different are formed as a same yarn-type continuous part 3 which is continuous in the width direction D1 of the lace fabric.
  • the liner yarns 9c respectively perform a traverse over six, four, and two wales, and a location at which separate liner yarns 9c and 9c overlap at the same wale W is formed, whereby the continuity thereof is secured.
  • the same yarn-type yarn passage part 2n of nylon is continuously formed at a location returned by seven courses from the top of the drawing, and the liner yarns 9n and 9n which are of the same yarn type and are different are formed as the same yarn-type continuous part 3 which is continuous in the width direction D1 of the lace fabric.
  • the liner yarns 9n respectively perform a traverse over five and two wales, and a location at which separate liner yarns 9n and 9n overlap at the same wale W is formed, whereby the continuity thereof is secured.
  • the same yarn-type continuous part 3 may be continuously knitted in the width direction of the lace fabric by making a number (the number of wales equal to 1, half of the number of wales, or the like) of wefts or interweaving yarns corresponding to the number of wales which are disposed in the width direction of the lace fabric perform a traverse.
  • the knitting is advanced while forming the same yarn-type yarn passage part 2 (the same yarn-type continuous part 3 is also acceptable).
  • the same yarn-type yarn passage parts 2 (the same yarn-type continuous parts 3 are also acceptable) of different yarn types are disposed to be distributed in the knitting direction of the lace fabric with regard to a unit area composed of a predetermined number of courses (in the example shown in Figs.
  • the length of the same yarn-type yarn passage part 2 can be appropriately adjusted, and therefore, when viewed in the knitting direction, the exposed state of a different yarn is arbitrarily adjusted.
  • the thickness thereof is changed between the same yarn-type yarn passage parts (the same yarn-type continuous parts are also acceptable) which are disposed in the knitting direction D2 of the lace fabric.
  • the same yarn-type yarn passage parts the same yarn-type continuous parts are also acceptable
  • the gradation in the knitting direction can be realized, in addition to the gradation in the width direction described hitherto.
  • a configuration can be made which sequentially transitions from a yarn combination in which the nylon liner yarn 9n develops a color, to a color which the cation liner yarn 9c develops, and thereafter, returns back to the color on the cation side again in the lace fabric width direction.
  • the value of a lace can be significantly increased.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Braiding, Manufacturing Of Bobbin-Net Or Lace, And Manufacturing Of Nets By Knotting (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Claims (8)

  1. Spitzenstoff (1), der mit einem Grundgewebe (4), bestehend aus Maschenstäbchen (W) und Schussfäden (BW, FW), die mit den Maschenstäbchen verwoben sind, und eingewebten Garnen (9), die in das Grundgewebe eingewebt sind, gewirkt ist,
    wobei die eingewebten Garne aus Garnen aus unterschiedlichen Faserarten gebildet sind, die mindestens eine erste Faser (9n) und eine zweite Faser (9c) beinhalten,
    wobei der Spitzenstoff in einer Breitenrichtung (D1) mit Teilen (2n oder 2c) versehen ist, bei denen eingewebte Garne derselben Faserart durch denselben Lauf über mehrere Maschenstäbchen (W) laufen, und die in einer Wirkrichtung (D2) des Spitzenstoffs an Teile (2c oder 2n) angrenzen, bei denen eingewebte Garne von unterschiedlicher Faserart durch denselben Lauf über mehrere Maschenstäbchen laufen,
    dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die mindestens erste Faser und zweite Faser unterschiedliche Farbstoffaffinitäten in Bezug auf einen spezifischen Farbstoff aufweisen, und der Spitzenstoff eine Abstufungsspitze ist, wobei
    in Bezug auf Einheitsbereiche (Zc, Zm1, Zm2, Ze), die in der Breitenrichtung (D1) des Spitzenstoffs angeordnet sind und die jeweils aus einer vorbestimmten Anzahl an Läufen bestehen, und
    wenn ein Vergleich zwischen eingewebten Garnen, die an der Vorderseite des Stoffs freiliegend sind, vorgenommen wird, ein abstufungsartiges Gewebe hergestellt ist, bei dem eine Dichte der ersten Faser (9n) in Bezug auf eine Dichte der zweiten Faser (9c) in einem Vergleich zwischen den Einheitsbereichen sequenziell in mindestens drei Stufen erhöht ist.
  2. Spitzenstoff nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass zur sequenziellen Erhöhung der Dichte der ersten Faser (9n) in Bezug auf die Dichte der zweiten Faser (9c) in dem Vergleich zwischen den Einheitsbereichen die Anzahl an Teilen (2n), bei denen Garne der ersten Faser durch denselben Lauf über mehrere Maschenstäbchen laufen, desto weiter erhöht wird, je größer die Dichte der ersten Faser in dem Bereich sein muss.
  3. Spitzenstoff nach Anspruch 1 oder 2,
    dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass, wenn ein Vergleich zwischen den eingewebten Garnen, die an der Vorderseite des Stoffs freiliegend sind, vorgenommen wird, die Einheitsbereiche einen Einheitsbereich (Zc) beinhalten, in dem die eingewebten Garne, die an der Vorderseite des Stoffes freiliegend sind, aus nur der ersten Faser (9n) bestehen, und einen Einheitsbereich (Ze), in dem die eingewebten Garne, die an der Vorderseite des Stoffes freiliegend sind, aus nur der zweiten Faser (9c) bestehen.
  4. Spitzenstoff nach Anspruch 1 oder 2,
    dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Spitzenstoff ein Leavers-Spitzenstoff ist, die Schussfäden vorderseitige Kettfäden (FW) und rückseitige Kettfäden (BW) beinhalten, und die eingewebten Garne Gimp-Garne (8), erste Einlagegarne (9n) der ersten Faser und zweite Einlagegarne (9c) der zweiten Faser beinhalten.
  5. Verfahren zum Wirken eines Spitzenstoffs (1), der mit einem Grundgewebe (4), bestehend aus Maschenstäbchen (W) und Schussfäden (BW, FW), die mit den Maschenstäbchen verwoben sind, und eingewebten Garnen (9), die in das Grundgewebe eingewebt sind, gewirkt ist,
    wobei die eingewebten Garne aus Garnen aus unterschiedlichen Faserarten gebildet sind, die mindestens eine erste Faser (9n) und eine zweite Faser (9c) beinhalten,
    wobei das Verfahren umfasst:
    Versehen eines Spitzenstoffes in einer Breitenrichtung (D1) mit Teilen (2n oder 2c), bei denen eingewebte Garne derselben Faserart durch denselben Lauf über mehrere Maschenstäbchen laufen,
    Verbinden der Teile (2n oder 2c) in einer Wirkrichtung (D2) des Spitzenstoffs mit Teilen (2c oder 2n), bei denen eingewebte Garne von unterschiedlicher Faserart durch denselben Lauf über mehrere Maschenstäbchen laufen,
    dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die mindestens erste Faser und zweite Faser so ausgewählt werden, dass sie unterschiedliche Farbstoffaffinitäten in Bezug auf einen spezifischen Farbstoff aufweisen,
    eine Abstufungspitze, die in Bezug auf Einheitsbereiche (Zc, Zm1, Zm2, Ze) gebildet wird, die in der Breitenrichtung (D1) des Spitzenstoffs angeordnet sind und die jeweils aus einer vorbestimmten Anzahl an Läufen bestehen, und
    wenn ein Vergleich zwischen den eingewebten Garnen, die an der Vorderseite des Stoffs freiliegend sind, vorgenommen wird, ein abstufungsartiges Gewebe hergestellt wird, bei dem eine Dichte der ersten Faser (9n) in Bezug auf eine Dichte der zweiten Faser (9c) in einem Vergleich zwischen den Einheitsbereichen sequenziell in mindestens drei Stufen erhöht ist.
  6. Verfahren zum Wirken eines Spitzenstoffs nach Anspruch 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass zur sequenziellen Erhöhung der Dichte der ersten Faser (9n) in Bezug auf die Dichte der zweiten Faser (9c) in dem Vergleich zwischen den Einheitsbereichen die Anzahl an Teilen (2n), bei denen Garne der ersten Faser durch denselben Lauf über mehrere Maschenstäbchen laufen, desto weiter erhöht wird, je größer die Dichte der ersten Faser in dem Bereich sein muss.
  7. Verfahren zum Wirken eines Spitzenstoffs nach Anspruch 5 oder 6,
    dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass, wenn ein Vergleich zwischen den eingewebten Garnen, die an der Vorderseite des Stoffs freiliegend sind, vorgenommen wird, die Einheitsbereiche einen Einheitsbereich (Zc) beinhalten, in dem eingewebte Garne, die an der Vorderseite des Stoffes freiliegend sind, aus nur der ersten Faser (9n) bestehen, und einen Einheitsbereich (Ze), in dem eigewebte Garne, die an der Vorderseite des Stoffes freiliegend sind, aus nur der zweiten Faser (9c) bestehen.
  8. Verfahren zum Wirken eines Spitzenstoffs nach Anspruch 5 oder 6,
    dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Spitzenstoff ein Leavers-Spitzenstoff ist, die Schussfäden vorderseitige Kettfäden (FW) und rückseitige Kettfäden (BW) beinhalten, und die eingewebten Garne Gimp-Garne (8), erste Einlagegarne (9n) der ersten Faser und zweite Einlagegarne (9c) der zweiten Faser beinhalten.
EP16187528.1A 2015-09-07 2016-09-07 Spitzenstoff und verfahren zum stricken von spitzenstoff Active EP3138944B1 (de)

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CN107268171A (zh) * 2017-05-08 2017-10-20 江南大学 一种多层次立体蕾丝花边生产方法
CN109252279B (zh) * 2018-09-26 2021-04-09 闽江学院 一种渐变色针织面料及其生产方法
CN108998882B (zh) * 2018-09-26 2021-04-09 闽江学院 一种渐变色针织面料及其生产方法
CN111172789A (zh) * 2020-01-19 2020-05-19 常州旭荣针织印染有限公司 渐层织物及其制备方法
CN113279126B (zh) * 2021-05-05 2023-01-17 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 一种具有抗菌抑菌物理渐变效果的针织织物及其编织方法

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