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EP3156532A1 - Verfahren zur herstellung von leavers-spitzenstoff und leavers-spitzenstoff - Google Patents

Verfahren zur herstellung von leavers-spitzenstoff und leavers-spitzenstoff Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3156532A1
EP3156532A1 EP16188436.6A EP16188436A EP3156532A1 EP 3156532 A1 EP3156532 A1 EP 3156532A1 EP 16188436 A EP16188436 A EP 16188436A EP 3156532 A1 EP3156532 A1 EP 3156532A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
yarn
hole formation
lace
wales
weft
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP16188436.6A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Yasuhiko Motoya
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Miyagi Lace Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Miyagi Lace Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Miyagi Lace Co Ltd filed Critical Miyagi Lace Co Ltd
Publication of EP3156532A1 publication Critical patent/EP3156532A1/de
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04C—BRAIDING OR MANUFACTURE OF LACE, INCLUDING BOBBIN-NET OR CARBONISED LACE; BRAIDING MACHINES; BRAID; LACE
    • D04C1/00—Braid or lace, e.g. pillow-lace; Processes for the manufacture thereof
    • D04C1/06—Braid or lace serving particular purposes
    • D04C1/08—Tulle fabrics
    • D04C1/10—Pattern tulle fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04C—BRAIDING OR MANUFACTURE OF LACE, INCLUDING BOBBIN-NET OR CARBONISED LACE; BRAIDING MACHINES; BRAID; LACE
    • D04C1/00—Braid or lace, e.g. pillow-lace; Processes for the manufacture thereof
    • D04C1/06—Braid or lace serving particular purposes

Definitions

  • This application relates to a method of manufacturing a Leavers lace fabric and a Leavers lace fabric which is obtained by carrying out the method.
  • Patent Documents 1 and 2 As a technique of applying damage to a product, stone wash processing, sandblasting, or the like is carried out. This type of processing is basically processing after a final product is obtained.
  • a product is referred to as a damaged lace.
  • damaged lace there is a lace in which a lace surface is subjected to wear processing to some extent, or a lace product in which holes are formed at specific sites therein.
  • damage processing such as stone washing is carried out.
  • damage treatment it is preferable to perform such damage treatment on a specific site in a product.
  • damage is perforation, in a cut and sewn product adopting a lace pattern or a lace having the lace pattern, it is necessary to specify positions of holes in consideration of an application state.
  • a lace product (in particular, an original fabric) is manufactured to have a specified lace width.
  • a lace product in particular, an original fabric
  • several rows of lace are knitted in a state of being arranged sideways, and the portions of lace are separated from each other at predetermined positions which are specified in a width direction.
  • Such techniques are disclosed in Patent Documents 3, 4, and 5.
  • the techniques disclosed in Patent Documents 3 and 4 are techniques using a drawn yarn
  • the technique disclosed in Patent Document 5 is a technique of cutting yarns crossing at separated locations which are basically set in a width direction.
  • Patent Documents 1 and 2 are not techniques which are specifically targeted at lace, and cannot cope with a technique in which position formation of holes specifically taking into account a lace pattern or an application state of lace is required.
  • the damage processing is basically performed on a final stage product in which processing other than damage has been completed, and therefore, if the damage processing is performed on lace in which knitting is completed, the lace itself cannot delicately maintain a shape, a lace design changes (a shape is lost), and a pattern is disturbed, and thus it is difficult to obtain a good product.
  • the drawn yarn shown in Patent Documents 3 and 4 is a technique of separating a knitted lace fabric along a knitting direction and does not aim at the formation of a hole which this application intends to attain.
  • Patent Document 5 by cutting a connection yarn 14a, separation along the knitting direction is likewise performed.
  • Patent Documents 3, 4, and 5 as a knitting machine, a Raschel knitting machine is used.
  • a Raschel knitting machine if an attempt to change the position, the number, or the like of holes which are provided in lace, in response to a pattern, is made according to a customer's request, basically, in the Raschel knitting machine, the position of the drawn yarn cannot be freely selected, and therefore, it is necessary to change a machine itself (for example, the selection or the number of reeds which are used for the drawn yarn, the position of a reed in a reed row, or the like), a monthly period is required in only this mechanical change, and thus a delivery time becomes longer, and it is not possible to cope with today's demands for large item small volume production.
  • an object of the present invention is to obtain a method of manufacturing a lace fabric, which is related to a method of manufacturing a perforated lace which has highly decorative properties and in which holes can be freely provided at arbitrary positions, and in which a problem such as wrinkles does not occur even if the lace fabric passes through a knitted fabric treatment process after knitting, such as dyeing.
  • a method of manufacturing a Leavers lace fabric including: forming a base weave by appropriately connecting adjacent course sites of wales, each composed of a bobbin yarn, by a weft; performing knitting by interweaving a large number of pattern yarns forming a pattern design into the base weave; and forming both side end edges in a width direction, each of which extends along the wale, in which a cross-over yarn for hole formation is interwoven alternately across a predetermined number of courses between hole formation target wales that are a pair of wales which are located in each of both side end edges in a width direction and are adjacent to each other in a width direction of a lace fabric, and the weft is retained at any one wale of the hole formation target wales in a hole formation target site in a lace knitting direction between the hole formation target wales, and a Leavers lace fabric having a hole is obtained by carrying out a knitting process of providing a we
  • the knitting of a lace based on a weave drawing created in advance is carried out.
  • the cross-over yarn for hole formation is interwoven between the hole formation target wales of a lace which is required to be, for example, a damaged lace.
  • the treatment process such as dyeing is performed, in the hole formation process which becomes a substantive final process, the cross-over yarn for hole formation interwoven in a knitting stage is extracted.
  • the hole formation targets wale as referred to in this application are a pair of wales adjacent to each other in the width direction of the lace fabric in the lace fabric. Therefore, after the cross-over yarn for hole formation is interwoven, if an operation of extracting the cross-over yarn for hole formation from the knitted fabric (the lace fabric) is performed, with regard to the hole formation target site, there is neither the weft nor the pattern yarn between the pair of wales, and therefore, the site is separated in the knitting direction.
  • the weft interweaving site and the pattern yarn interweaving site which are sites different from the hole formation target site, the weft, the pattern yarn, or both of them are interwoven between the wales, and therefore, the sites are not separated.
  • such holes can be formed in an arbitrary number at an arbitrary positions between both side end edges in the width direction of the lace fabric. Further, the hole can be formed in an arbitrary length at an arbitrary position in the knitting direction of the lace fabric.
  • a hole having a form specific to this application and extending in the knitting direction can be formed in accordance with a pattern which is formed in the lace fabric, and thus it is possible to obtain a lace with a hole as a damaged lace, and it is possible to obtain a lace having a distinctive design as shown in Fig. 1A , for example.
  • a knitting machine a Leavers lace machine is used, and therefore, the position adjustment of the cross-over yarn for hole formation in the lace fabric width direction can be easily performed. Further, the specification of the hole formation target site is also easy.
  • Leavers lace machine a machine capable of mechanically manufacturing a Leavers lace is referred to as a Leavers lace machine.
  • Leavers lace has a braid-like structure, and therefore, there is also an opinion that it is a woven fabric.
  • the width direction of the lace fabric as referred to in this application corresponds to a direction of arrangement of warps (bobbin yarns), and the knitting direction is a direction in which weaving advances.
  • weft interweaving sites sites in which interweaving densities of the wefts are different in the lace knitting direction are provided.
  • the weft in the weft interweaving site, the weft is interwoven between the hole formation target wales, and therefore, the hole as described previously is not formed in this site.
  • the density thereof is adjusted, whereby in an area in which the density of the weft is high, a lace part in which the wales extend securely in the knitting direction is made, and an area in which the density is low becomes a part in which due to relatively loose connection, a rough net (mesh) is present.
  • the hole can be made to be clear, and if a rough area is provided and the front thereof is made to be dense, a configuration in which transition from the hole to the dense weave is sequentially made can be realized.
  • a configuration in which in the execution of the knitting process, a weft-alone interweaving site in which only the weft is interwoven between the hole formation target wales, and a pattern yarn and weft interweaving site in which both the pattern yarn and the weft are interwoven between the hole formation target wales are provided is also a preferable configuration.
  • a net-alone site and a part with a pattern can be formed by forming the weft-alone interweaving site and the pattern yarn and weft interweaving site, and various lace designs can be developed by the interposition of the hole formation target site, or the like.
  • a first fiber is used for a yarn of a part of the weft or the pattern yarn
  • a second fiber is used for a yarn of the other part of the weft or the pattern yarn, which is different from the weft or the pattern yarn composed of the first fiber
  • a fiber thicker than the second fiber is used as the first fiber
  • a cover form in a case of looking at a lace fabric in which a hole of a lace is covered with a yarn can be appropriately adjusted by, for example, the interposition of the hole formation target site, or the like, due to the selection of the thickness of a yarn.
  • a change of a color can also be adjusted in accordance with a cover form of the lace fabric.
  • Fig. 1A is a diagram showing an external appearance when a Leavers lace fabric 1 according to this application is viewed from the front surface side.
  • a hole 2 extending a knitting direction D2 is formed in the Leavers lace fabric 1, as also shown in the drawing, and along with a lace pattern which is composed of a pattern yarn or the like, the hole 2 specific to this application also forms a part of a lace design.
  • the positions of the holes 2 in a lace fabric width direction D1 and the lace fabric knitting direction D2 can be freely adjusted, and the length of the hole 2 and the structure of a net N before and after the hole 2 can also be freely adjusted.
  • Fig. 3 an example of a weave structure of a knitting weave for forming the hole 2 is shown, and the formation principle of the hole 2 is shown in Figs. 4A and 4B .
  • the lace fabric according to this application is manufactured by being knitted by a Leavers lace machine (not shown) and thereafter, extracting a cross-over yarn for hole formation 3 specific to this application after predetermined treatment is performed on a knitted fabric.
  • FIG. 2A A weave in a case where the Leavers lace fabric 1 is viewed from the knitted fabric front surface side is shown in Figs. 2A and 2B .
  • a bobbin yarn 7 (yarn type: nylon, thickness: a range of 30 to 50 deniers) which forms a foundation of the weave and extends in the knitting direction D2 which is referred to as a wale W is provided as a warp
  • a back warp BW (yarn type: nylon covered yarn with polyurethane as a core, thickness: a range of 140 to 420 deniers, or a nylon yarn or the like having a thickness in a range of 30 to 50 deniers) is interwoven with the bobbin yarn 7 in the width direction of the knitted fabric.
  • a front warp FW (yarn type: nylon, thickness: a range of 30 to 50 deniers) is interwoven on the front side of the back warp BW.
  • the back warp BW and the front warp FW serve as wefts for configuring a base weave 4 (the net N) of a warp knitted fabric.
  • a weaving direction of each of the back warp BW and the front warp FW, or a gimp yarn 8 and a liner yarn 9 (both of which will be described later) becomes the width direction D1 of the lace fabric, which is orthogonal to the knitting direction D2 described previously.
  • a yarn stroke motion of each of the back warp BW and the front warp FW is to make interweaving proceed by performing a traverse between the bobbin yarns 7 adjacent to each other or between a predetermined number of bobbin yarns 7 in the same course C
  • the back warp BW has a form in which it is located on the back surface side of the bobbin yarn 7 when the yarn performs a rightward traverse with respect to the bobbin yarn 7, and located on the front surface side of the bobbin yarn 7 at the time of a leftward traverse, when viewed from the front surface side of a knitted fabric, as shown in Fig. 2A .
  • the front warp FW is knitted so as to be located on the front surface side at the time of a rightward traverse with respect to the bobbin yarn 7 and be located on the back surface side at the time of a leftward traverse.
  • the base weave 4 of the Leavers lace fabric 1 is completed with the bobbin yarn 7 (a warp), the back warp BW (a weft), and the front warp FW (a weft). Further, in the Leavers lace fabric 1, for the purpose of patterning or the like, with respect to the base weave 4, the gimp yarn 8 (yarn type: cation, nylon, cotton, or the like, thickness: a range of about 50 to 150 deniers) is inserted between the front warp FW and the back warp BW, and the liner yarn 9 (yarn type: nylon, cation, cotton, or the like, thickness: about 300 deniers) is inserted on the front surface side of the front warp FW, as shown in Fig. 2B .
  • Fig. 2B is a weave in which a single representative gimp yarn 8 and a single representative liner yarn 9 are inserted into the base weave 4 of Fig. 2A .
  • the same yarn stroke motion as that of the back warp BW described previously is performed in the gimp yarn 8
  • the same yarn stroke motion as that of the front warp FW is performed in the liner yarn 9.
  • the number of gimp yarns 8 is generally about 60 pieces and the number of liner yarns 9 is also generally about 60 pieces.
  • the Leavers lace fabric 1 is composed of a liner yarn layer 90, a front warp layer FWL, a gimp yarn layer 80, and a back warp layer BWL as shown in Fig. 1B , if the knitted fabric is viewed in a thickness direction T thereof.
  • the positional relationship in a knitted fabric front-and-back direction between the respective yarns is determined by the positional relationship between reeds in a knitting operation. From a relationship of configuring a knit, it goes without saying that the respective yarns are interwoven with each other to follow the configuration shown in Fig. 2B in the front-and-back direction.
  • a cross-over yarn for hole formation 3 (yarn type: nylon, thickness: about 420 deniers) specific to this application is interwoven into the lace fabric.
  • a net yarn for lace fabric connection 5 (yarn type: nylon, thickness: about 420 deniers) is used in order to knit a plurality of lace fabrics 1 at both side ends in the width direction of the lace fabric by a single knitting operation in a Leavers lace machine.
  • the cross-over yarn for hole formation 3 is a yarn which is interwoven into the lace fabric in order to form the hole 2 in a specific site (in this application, this site is referred to as a hole formation target site 20) of the lace fabric
  • the net yarn for lace fabric connection 5 is an operation yarn for connecting the lace fabrics 1, each of which becomes a unit, in a case of knitting a plurality of lace fabrics 1 by a single knitting operation by using a Leavers lace machine.
  • the Leavers lace fabric 1 is the Leavers lace fabric 1 in which the hole 2 extending in the knitting direction is formed at an arbitrary position of the intended lace fabric through a knitting process, a treatment process, and a hole formation process. Therefore, in the following description, description will be made in the order of the processes while appropriately referring to weave drawings ( Figs, 3 , 4A, and 4B ) of the Leavers lace. However, in order to facilitate understanding, in Figs. 4A and 4B , only the wefts FW and BW and the bobbin yarn 7 are shown and the pattern yarns 8 and 9 are omitted. Further, the net yarn for lace fabric connection 5 does not appear.
  • each line in a vertical direction indicates the position of the bobbin yarn 7 which forms a wale W
  • each line in a horizontal direction corresponds to a course C
  • lines passing in the direction of a weft correspond to the wefts (FW and BW)
  • the pattern yarns in the example shown in the drawings, mainly the liner yarn 9
  • the cross-over yarn for hole formation 3 and the net yarn for lace fabric connection 5.
  • the cross-over yarn for hole formation 3 performs the same yarn passage as that of the front warp FW described previously, and the net yarns for lace fabric connection 5 and 5 which can be provided in a pair also perform the same yarn passage as that of the front warp FW.
  • a pair of net yarns for lace fabric connection 5 is interwoven between specific wales We and We at the left end of the drawing.
  • Each net yarn for lace fabric connection 5 forms a weave in which a yarn stroke motion, in which the yarn passes between the wales We and We which form a pair, every three courses, and turns to the back surface side or the front surface side of the bobbin yarn 7 and thereafter, returns to the original wales We and We again in a state where the yarn has advanced by three courses, is repeated.
  • the right side of a lace fabric connection area in which the pair of net yarns for lace fabric connection 5 is interwoven becomes an area of a lace fabric main body 100.
  • a scallop part 101 is provided on the end portion side and a pattern part 102 continue therefrom and has the hole formation target site 20 which has been described hitherto, at a site on the right side thereof (the inside when viewed from the lace fabric).
  • a left hole formation target site 20a extends over about thirty courses
  • a central hole formation target site 20b extends over about ten courses
  • a right hole formation target site 20c extends over about thirty courses.
  • the cross-over yarn for hole formation 3 performs yarn passage between the wales Wh every five or six course.
  • a site 21 a retreated site 21b or an advanced site 21f in the knitting direction
  • the hole formation target wales Wh and Wh which are a pair of wales adjacent to each other in the width direction D1 of the lace fabric are specified in each of both side end edges in a width direction, at which the net yarn for lace fabric connection 5 is located, and the cross-over yarn for hole formation 3 is alternately interwoven across a predetermined number of courses between the specified hole formation target wales Wh and Wh.
  • the weft FW is retained at any one wale of the hole formation target wales Wh and Wh, and a weft interweaving site 22 in which the weft FW is interwoven between the hole formation target wales Wh and Wh is provided in only each of the sites 21 (21b and 21f) other than the hole formation target site in the lace knitting direction D2.
  • a pattern yarn interweaving site 23 in which the pattern yarns 8 and 9 are interwoven between the hole formation target wales Wh and Wh is provided in only each of the sites 21 (21b and 21f) other than the hole formation target site 20.
  • the above is the basic configuration of a weave design of the Leavers lace according to this application, and in the knitting process, an original fabric is knitted according to this basic design concept.
  • the cross-over yarn for hole formation 3 remains. Therefore, the original fabric can favorably maintain the lace design thereof in the subsequent operation.
  • the cross-over yarn for hole formation 3 is removed from the treated knitted fabric. This is the hole formation process.
  • the Leavers lace fabric 1 having a hole which extends in the knitting direction at a position according to the basic design of the lace fabric can be obtained. If the manufacturing procedure of this embodiment is adopted, it is possible to obtain a lace fabric with a hole, in which hole formation can be performed at the final stage of the manufacturing, without disturbing a distinctive lace design of a lace fabric.
  • a perforated lace which has highly decorative properties and in which holes are freely provided at arbitrary positions can be manufactured mechanically and without greatly disturbing a lace design. Further, it is possible to obtain a method of manufacturing a lace fabric, in which a problem such as wrinkles does not occur even if work passes through a knitted fabric treatment process after knitting, such as dyeing.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Braiding, Manufacturing Of Bobbin-Net Or Lace, And Manufacturing Of Nets By Knotting (AREA)
EP16188436.6A 2015-09-17 2016-09-13 Verfahren zur herstellung von leavers-spitzenstoff und leavers-spitzenstoff Withdrawn EP3156532A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2015183597A JP2017057522A (ja) 2015-09-17 2015-09-17 リバーレース地の製造方法及びリバーレース地

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3156532A1 true EP3156532A1 (de) 2017-04-19

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP16188436.6A Withdrawn EP3156532A1 (de) 2015-09-17 2016-09-13 Verfahren zur herstellung von leavers-spitzenstoff und leavers-spitzenstoff

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EP (1) EP3156532A1 (de)
JP (1) JP2017057522A (de)
CN (1) CN106988010A (de)

Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB264833A (en) * 1926-01-19 1927-07-28 John Spalding Improvements in lace web and process of making the same
GB945902A (en) * 1961-05-10 1964-01-08 Liberty Fabrics Panama Inc Seamless molded brassiere cups, method of making same, and brassiere construction utilizing such cups
GB1455040A (en) * 1973-04-18 1976-11-10 Manuf De Dentelles F Sury Levers lace frames and to the lace obtained by using these frames
JPH07173766A (ja) 1993-12-21 1995-07-11 Kuraray Co Ltd 着古し感覚のポリエステル布帛およびその製造法
JP2000328406A (ja) 1999-05-10 2000-11-28 Takeda Lace Co Ltd 経編地とその製造方法
JP2001159058A (ja) 1999-11-30 2001-06-12 Urabe Kk 分離構造を有する伸縮性経編地およびその製造方法
JP2005264390A (ja) 2004-03-19 2005-09-29 Teijin Fibers Ltd 着古し外観を有するポリエステル縫製品の製造方法
JP2014005582A (ja) 2012-06-27 2014-01-16 Hokuriku Str Cooperative 伸縮性経編地及びこれを用いた衣類

Patent Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB264833A (en) * 1926-01-19 1927-07-28 John Spalding Improvements in lace web and process of making the same
GB945902A (en) * 1961-05-10 1964-01-08 Liberty Fabrics Panama Inc Seamless molded brassiere cups, method of making same, and brassiere construction utilizing such cups
GB1455040A (en) * 1973-04-18 1976-11-10 Manuf De Dentelles F Sury Levers lace frames and to the lace obtained by using these frames
JPH07173766A (ja) 1993-12-21 1995-07-11 Kuraray Co Ltd 着古し感覚のポリエステル布帛およびその製造法
JP2000328406A (ja) 1999-05-10 2000-11-28 Takeda Lace Co Ltd 経編地とその製造方法
JP2001159058A (ja) 1999-11-30 2001-06-12 Urabe Kk 分離構造を有する伸縮性経編地およびその製造方法
JP2005264390A (ja) 2004-03-19 2005-09-29 Teijin Fibers Ltd 着古し外観を有するポリエステル縫製品の製造方法
JP2014005582A (ja) 2012-06-27 2014-01-16 Hokuriku Str Cooperative 伸縮性経編地及びこれを用いた衣類

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Publication number Publication date
JP2017057522A (ja) 2017-03-23
CN106988010A (zh) 2017-07-28

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