Glimpses of history at Garfield Ledges Trail

Scraggly trees at the edge of a huge boulder overlook a misty valley

A misty day at Garfield Ledges Trail

looking up at Garfield Ledges

Looking up at Garfield Ledges from the Taylor River (2020)

Garfield Ledges Trail is a relatively recent addition to the Middle Fork recreational area. For a last summer hurrah, we headed up for a hike over Labor Day weekend. The day was cool and misty — it seemed that fall had beaten us. Yet higher in the mountains, spring comes later too — we saw a faded trillium, bleeding heart just fading, and still-blooming fireweed.

The smooth trail winds up a steep hillside, at times ascending stairs. A second growth forest shades the trail, spindly trees growing close together over an understory of sword ferns. Everywhere you look, there are rocks — in the carved out edges of the trail, it appears the earth of the hillside is more rock than soil. Slabs of rock emerge from sheets of moss filigreed by red huckleberry.

Sometimes second-growth forests are dull, but this one was rich with history. Massive stumps dot the forest along the entire trail. Logged a hundred years ago, most have lost their bark and serve as a base for new trees and red huckleberry shrubs to grow. In some places, the felled trees appear to have been left beside their stump. Even on a gray day, the effervescent green of the red huckleberry glowed electric. Snags, too, stand amidst the living trees. The past and the present are intertwined; the long now of a forest is much longer than people’s. This is the magic of a mature ecosystem.

At the top of the short trail, a small rocky ledge reveals an expansive vista of the wide Middle Fork river valley, carved long ago by glaciers. An interpretive sign pictures the valley below when it was freshly logged in the 1930s.

Trailhead signboard at Garfield Ledges Trail including an area map showing trails and recreation sites

The Garfield Ledges Trail starts from a relatively new parking area at the start of the road to the Dutch Miller Gap

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A suburban pocket forest

Tall deciduous trees with golden smoky light on them

We walked out to see the purportedly once largest tree in King County — a Douglas fir 26 feet in circumference! The pocket forest where it stands is little known but lovely, second growth yet dotted with old growth trees that for whatever reason didn’t get the saw.

The tree was topped in a huge windstorm thirty years ago. Its thick, furrowed bark remains firm and intact, its missing crown the only indication of its demise. Being in a forest like this reminds me how much longer trees’ time scale is than ours; this enormous snag could stand another fifty or hundred years before it falls and becomes a nurse log, taking another hundred to break down: carbon held for generations, nutrients fed back into the ecosystem over decades. Old growth nurse logs are the whale falls of the forest 😉 The stumps of trees logged in the 20s are still clear to see in every second growth forest around the northwest, marked by springboard notches. A full grown tree emerging from the stump of a logged cedar showcases the forest’s age.

These are the gradual processes of decay in a forest, the biological form of erosion played out at a time scale yet dwarfed by geological time. And like geography, the forest too experiences both gradual and catastrophic; smoke from a burning forest to the east flavored the air as we walked.

A mature conifer grows off the rotten stump of a long ago logged cedar stump, roots draping over it to reach the ground five feet down

Dark trees arc out from a sloped and slumping hillside, leaves yellowing in fall

A massive bigleaf maple, trunk dark, smoke tinged sun catching the moss on the bark, trees yellow with fall

A Hike through an Eastern Washington Old Growth Forest


Having an afternoon commitment in Cle Elum, we decided to make a day of it and take a hike nearby. I picked Cooper River for its low elevation profile, go-as-far-as-you-want there-and-back trail type, and snow-free recent trip reports.

Rain pounded as we drove up towards Snoqualmie Pass, and we doubted our plans would work out. But, it died off the further east we went, and was more of a light shower by the time we reached Cle Elum. We drove up the shore of Lake Cle Elum to the trailhead at Cooper River. The lake was high, trees flooded at the banks up to their branches.

Near the start of the trail, there’s a large rock outcropping that overlooks a rapids in the river, and a large pool downstream that seemed like a possible swimming spot. Sure enough, on the far side of the river a rope swing hung at the top of a rock. Pink and purple penstemon grew out of crevices in the rock.

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Camper Van Escape to the Mountain Loop Highway

Three larger tree stumps, two fallen and one cut, amidst a sunny patch of greenery beneath a second growth conifer forest

Stumps are all that remain of the original forest in this second growth forest

In desperate need of a getaway, we rented a camper van and headed up to the Mountain Loop Highway about an hour and a half north of Seattle.

I’ve been extremely cautious about coronavirus, and in the last six months have left my town only twice, both for a quick day trip to North Bend. We wanted to stay within a couple hour drive of Seattle, but simultaneously choose somewhere that wouldn’t be completely packed with people. My (vain) hope was to not see anyone else on the trip. Let me tell you, it’s challenging to plan a road trip where you want to avoid all attractions ;) Every pre-designed road trip is intended to take you past the most beautiful national and state parks. That led me to look at the major forest service areas, steering away from normally big draws like Mt. Rainier and Mt. St. Helens.

We’ve been curious about vanlife (for camping, not living) for a while, and decided this was a good opportunity to try it out while gaining some flexibility in where we could camp. Worst case scenario, if everything was crowded or all the good sites were taken, we could just pull off on the shoulder and sleep there. Our ideal vision for the trip was to move from spot to spot along the Mountain Loop Highway, getting to see the whole 52-mile route deeply since we haven’t spent much time there.

Unluckily, the smoke rolled in the day we headed out on our trip, after a blissfully smoke-free summer. We hemmed and hawed that morning before picking up the van, trying to decide between going north to the Mountain Loop Highway and south towards the Naches area east and south of Mt. Rainier. Ultimately, we chose better in going north, although we didn’t escape the smoke.

Streamside Nature and Relaxation

Man holding beer steps along rocks crossing a low stream, with yellow fallen leaves accumulating behind the rocks forming the crossing

Early September and the cottonwood leaves are turning yellow and accumulating in the stream

All the dispersed camping spots I’d found in advance online were taken, and the area was much busier than I’d expected for the Tuesday after Labor Day weekend. (We waited till after the holiday weekend in hopes that fewer people would be around.) But, we spotted a big pullout across from the Ice Caves parking lot and discovered an ideal pair of drive-in campsites with a good bit of space between them. We pulled the van in to the spot, adjusted positioning for levelness, and camp was made. First point to #vanlife.

Pop the cooler for a beer, grab the camp chairs, and we were down by the creek in minutes. Over the next few days, we spent a lot of time sitting by the creek and exploring up and down the rocky shelf (some locals later told us the water was extremely low), spotting frogs, dragonflies, and butterflies. A couple Stellar’s jays and crows kept us company, though we heard few other birds. The spot was so nice, and the area so busy, that we decided to hold onto our nice site for the whole trip.

Boulders in a slow moving stream, the water glowing bright with the reflection of foliage in the sunlight behind

Golden foliage of a turning vine maple reflects warm light on the peaceful stream

Branch of leaves with white spots ringed with brown, the bright green turning to red at the tips

As summer becomes fall, the vine maple leaves speckle and turn red

White butterfly with black markings and pale blue body sits wings open on a bright yellow leaf next to a puddle in the lee of some stream rocks

A western white butterfly rests on a fallen cottonwood leaf in a nook between rocks in the stream

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The River Beckons

White wide boulder in slow moving water

A boulder in the multicolored river enticed us, but the water was still frigid

The river beckoned on a warm summer afternoon, so we drove into the foothills. Wary of narrow trails, we walked up a wide rail-to-trail dirt road to a secluded spot on the Snoqualmie River. The informal trail clear but dusty and slippery, we descended a steep hill to reach the water, where we found a tucked away rare sandy beach in the shade. Steps away was a classic northwest riverbank of cobbled rocks. We last came to this spot probably eight years ago, and it’s interesting to see how much and how little has changed.

Hillside covered in dark green ferns with several mossy tree trunks with the sun peeking between forest behind

Lush native ferns underpin bigleaf maple trees as the sun drops behind trees

Lowland Douglas fir forest in late afternoon

Light streams between the trees

Tree casting shadow between bright green backlit maple leaves

Sunshine makes vine maple leaves glow green

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