Leathers

آثار چرمی تاریخی به عنوان بخش قابل توجهی از میراث تاریخی و فرهنگی جوامع، در برگیرنده ی اطلاعات با ارزشی از فرهنگ و فناوری اقوام گذشته هستند. با توجه به ساختار آسیب پذیر چرم، حجم محدودی از این آثار از ادوار گذشته باقی مانده و از این رو بررسی و مطالعه ی این آثار نسبت به سایر آثار منقول و غیر منقول، کم تر انجام شده است. بدین دلیل اهمیت مطالعه و حفظ این گونه آثار، به علت نادر بودن آن ها و ساختار آسیب پذیرشان، افزایش می یابد. یکی از فاکتورهای مهم در مقوله حفاظت و مرمت چرم، بررسی جامع آن قبل از شروع درمان و افزودن مواد حفاظتی، به عنوان پیش شرط درمان می باشد؛ که به هیچ وجه نباید نادیده گرفته شود. پیش از درمان چرم های تاریخی، حفاظت گر نیاز به پاسخ به سه سوال عمده دارد: از چه چیزی ساخته شده؛ چگونه ساخته¬شده؛ و چه میزان و چه نوع آسیبی متحمل شده است؟ در این راستا، اطلاعات مفید بسیاری را می توان در رابطه با فن شناسی و آسیب شناسی چرم های تاریخی با روش های آزمایشگاهی کلاسیک به دست آورد. از این رو در این نوشتار، به معرفی روش های شیمی کلاسیک، در بررسی آثار چرمی تاریخی پرداخته شده¬است. این روش ها شامل، شناسایی چرم، نوع پوست، عامل دباغی زاج، انواع تانن های گیاهی موجود در ساختار چرم (متراکم شونده، هیدرولیز شونده، گالو و الاگی تانن ها)، آهن، سولفات و تعیین میزان رطوبت، چربی آزاد چرم و مواد معدنی آن است. بررسی این موارد بر اساس روش های مطرح شده که کارایی و میزان اطلاعات قابل استحصال از آن ها ارزیابی شده است؛ اطلاعات مفید بسیاری در زمینه ی وضعیت ساختاری چرم، تکنولوژی ساخت آن و انتخاب روش درمان و برخورد صحیح با آن را در اختیار قرار می دهد.

Mau beli sepatu, tapi masih bingung, bagus yang menggunakan bahan PVC Leather atau PU Leather. Lebih awet mana antara PVC Leather dan PU Leather? dan kualitasnya lebih bagus yang mana. Setelah browsing, akhirnya saya memutuskan untuk membeli sepatu berbahan PU Leather. Apa itu bahan 'PU Leather'? PU dalam 'PU Leather' adalah singkatan untuk poliuretan. Kulit PU adalah salah satu bahan tas yang paling populer belakangan ini di dunia fashion. Ini adalah bahan buatan manusia (sintetis) dan biasanya dinamai oleh kulit imitasi, materi baru di pasar saat ini. Karena diakui atau tidak kelebihan kulit imitasi ini membuatnya populer termasuk harga yang lebih murah, kaya warna, dan permukaannya yang sedikit berbintik-bintik unik. Sebelum PU muncul, PVC merupakan bahan buatan manusia untuk bahan tas menggantikan kulit asli sebelum. Keduanya, baik PU dan PVC memiliki proses pembuatan yang sama. Pada dasarnya, digunakan dua lapisan sebagai laipisan utama dari bahan. Salah satunya adalah lapisan dasar dan lainnya adalah lapisan aditif. Untuk PVC, lapisan dasar biasanya terbuat dari tekstil, misalnya kanvas, katun. Lapisan dasar kulit PU biasanya tekstil atau kulit berkualitas rendah. Lapisan aditif PVC adalah plasticizer sehingga memiliki permukaan yang kaku dan rapuh, kulit PU mengambil bahan kimia aditif yang berbeda sehingga memiliki nuansa kulit yang lembut. Beberapa bahan yang dihasilkan dari proses yang sangat baik bahkan benar-benar berkualitas sehingga sangat menyerupai kulit asli. Ditambah keuntungan yang disebutkan di atas, jangan heran jika Anda melihat PU tas kulit memiliki harga yang lebih tinggi daripada yang berbahan kulit asli. Tak peduli apapun jenis bahan yang Anda beli Anda kemungkinan besar akan mendapatkan produk yang mengagumkan. Panduan ini ditulis untuk memberi informasi pada Anda perbedaan materi yang digunakan dan berapa harga yang harus Anda bayar untuk itu. Jangan tertipu oleh penjual menyesatkan. Mereka tahu berapa harga bahan kulit dan itulah motif di balik penipuan mereka. Jenis Kulit Nappa Smooth Leather adalah jenis kulit yang diproses khusus dengan permukaan halus yang tertutup cat khusus kulit baik yang Nappa (doff) maupun yang Kilap. Umumnya sepatu model Dress Shoes (sepatu kantor), tas, dompet, sabuk, juga jaket yang terbuat dari kulit sapi maupun kulit

Abstrak Tujuan penelitian ini adalah mempelajari pengaruh penambahan limbah padat IPK (shaving) terhadap sifat fisis papan partikel dari PVC. Papan partikel dibuat dari bahan plastik polivinil chlorida dan bahan pembantu serta limbah padat IPK (shaving). Penelitian dilakukan dengan memvariasikan jumlah limbah padat IPK (shaving) yaitu 0 dan 70 phr. Pencampuran dilakukan dalam mixer, dan alat two roll mill tanpa panas, diputar dengan kecepatan putar torsi 30 rpm. Kondisi pengepresan adalah: suhu 165oC, tekanan 150 kg/cm2, waktu 6 menit untuk tebal 2 mm dan 30 menit untuk tebal 10 mm (tergantung jenis uji). Papan partikel yang diperoleh diuji sesuai SNI 03-2105-2006 Mutu Papan Partikel. Hasil pengujian sifat fisis menunjukkan bahwa limbah padat IPK (shaving) pada kompon polyvinyl chloride untuk papan partikel, berpengaruh nyata menaikkan sifat kuat tarik, kadar air, pengembangan tebal, tapi menurunkan sifat kuat pegang sekrup, dan kuat lentur. Penambahan limbah padat IPK (shaving) tidak berpengaruh nyata pada sifat kerapatan massa. Kata Kunci: papan partikel, polyvinyl chloride, limbah padat IPK (shaving), sifat fisis

- Abstract:
Im.j-wt is the skin that embodies the skin of the bull Apis, in which Auxerre disappeared after he was killed by his brother Seth as a symbol of the hidden vessel in which the regeneration and resurrection of the dead body takes place.
The skin, which contains the remains of Wsir's essential remains, and blood, serves as the cocoon of the embryo or coffin in which the transformations of God take place after moving from the living world to another from the life of the dead. Especially since the presence of "Inpw" in addition to the skin bladders guarded by them, but they are the tool that facilitates all the transformations that occur to the "Wsir" deceased to protect his transformations and continued existence.
The skin containing the essential secretions of the god "Wsir", it serves as the preservative vessel of the element causing the continuation of his descendants and the presence of his successors after him.
The skin, which embodies an image of the god Inpw-Im.j-wt, as his name and surname are connected directly with the word wt, which means decomposition or decay, in which a gesture to the body as one of the elements of personality that quickly rot and decay On the one hand, and to these remains and those secretions that, if retained within that bladder released vital elements on the other hand, especially since the lymphatic secretions are the origin of the fertility of the earth, according to the Jumilhac papyrus.
The skin through which the god "Anty" representing the god "Hor" recovered his leather cover, which protected him from annihilation and nothingness thanks to the action of the goddess "Hesat" to put a few drops of her milk inside, it is thus a place that allows the opportunity to restore the nature of the god "Horus ".
The skin that embodies the manifestation of the god "Horus" as the son of "Wsir", especially that the proximity of "Im.j-wt" represents the stages of transformation through which the body of "Horus" moment created in the bushes of the delta on the one hand, and the moment In which Hor prepares to confront his uncle Seth corresponds to the final stages of the process of the god Wsir, which was about to be attached to the kingdom of the underworld as a second death.
The skin within which the transformations of recreation are carried out, since, according to some translations, the word “Im.j-wt” means “who is deposited inside the scrolls”, referring to the next-to-life object symbolically residing within the proximity of “Im.j-wt”.
The skin, which embodies the image of the god "Inpw" as the mummification of "Wsir" and the extraction of his remains, and the carrying of the title: "Im.j-wt" in itself not only because he is the mummification acts; but also because some translate it as "Mummification Supervisor ".
The Im.j-wt skin may also symbolize one of two things: the revival of the land of Abu Sir, to the growth of the penis of Auxerre through the blood of Set placed inside the compound after being drawn from it as a punishment;  Or giving Seth and his followers in the form of an animal sacrifice as an offerings to Wsir through their blood kept inside the skin after mummification.
The bottom line is that this skin, whether attributed to this or that god, in its entirety symbolizes the resurrection and publication on the one side, and regeneration and birth on the other, and conservation and mummification on the third, and life and survival on the fourth, And all of these views are suggest continuity.

A well-preserved burial, discovered during peat clearing on Langwell Farm in Strath Oykel, Easter Ross, consisted of a stone cist that held the skeleton of a woman who had died in 2200–1960 cal BC. Although the cist contents were disturbed and partly removed before archaeological investigation took place, the burial rite can be interpreted to some extent. The woman, who died in her late 20s, had been wrapped in brown cattle hide, and wooden and woven objects were placed with her body. Periodic waterlogging created conditions that allowed the rare, partial preservation of the organic materials. Analysis of bone histology indicated that decay of the human remains had been arrested, either by deliberate mummification or by waterlogging. The cist had been sent into a low knoll on the valley floor and it may have been covered with a low cairn or barrow. This spot had been the site of a fire several hundred years earlier, and it may have been a node on a cross-country route linking east and west coasts in the Early Bronze Age. The use of animal hide suggests the creation and use of particular identities, linking the dead to ancestors and to powerful spiritual properties attributed to the natural world. The work was carried out for Historic Scotland under the Human Remains Call-off Contract.

To read full article:
http://archaeologydataservice.ac.uk/archiveDS/archiveDownload?t=arch-352-1/dissemination/pdf/vol_144/144_0065_0132.pdf

The article presents a collection of 17 fabric fragments, 16 leather goods and their fragments, and 6 ornaments obtained from four cesspits discovered at Świętojańska Street in Gdańsk. These constructions come from the period from the 14th to the 19th century. Thanks to the obtained dates of cutting down the wood used for their construction, the period of creation and use of the cesspits is known, which allows to approximate the chronology of organic materials reserved in such a condition that they can not be identified, as well as in the case of objects characterized by low variability over time. Visible disproportions in the presence of particular categories of the remains result from the nature of waste discharged by residents of the property. They show the differences between sets of sources from different periods of use of old cesspits.

Uherské Hradiště belongs to a small number of our cities in which well preserved objects made
of organic materials are regularly found as a result of uncovering of high medieval situations. This is
mainly because of the high level of underground water which allows the survival of these otherwise
rare finds among which leather artefacts can be found as well. These were discovered during almost
all planar researches in the historical core of the city. One of them was a preservation research in
Prostřední Street (Old townhall), Masaryk Square (Reduta), and Františkánská Street. The study
aims to present the results of technological-typological and material analysis of leather artefacts
from the three above-mentioned localities dated back to the period between second half of 13th up to
14th century.
The three selected collections from Uherské Hradiště consists of more than 670 artefacts out of
which only a fraction can be identified from the point of view of their original function. This illustrates
the character of the collection, which can definitely be considered as secondary waste deposited simply
in the area of the town plots, or in the area of public roads network. This way of waste treatment was
totally common in medieval towns and besides archaeological researches it was also proven by written
records (cf. Winter 1982, 179–196).
Among the objects the function of which could be identified are mostly respective parts of footwear
though not in such high numbers as in similar localities both in our country and abroad. This fact was
already mentioned in the study written by I. Shromáždilová (2001). Among the above-mentioned finds
pieces from the upper parts of footwear prevail unambiguously, mainly the type which was attached
to a leg by means of one or more rows of belts (type 10, according to Goubitz 2001, 135–144). Parts
decorated by cutting through or cutting out. Unfortunately, it was not possible to determine which
product they originally came from in none of them. Generally, these parts were used a s a decoration of
a vamp of a shoe (Fig. 11). A nice find is a finger part of a glove of mitten type which were in medieval
times used mostly as work gloves. Four little drop shaped cases which were used for keeping change and were used in payment everyday payment system are absolutely unique finds among the uncovered
objects.
Cumulation of scraps of leather of various sizes which were uncovered in Františkánská Street (test
pit C) is also worth mentioning (ca 140 pieces). From the technological point of view, they come from
both used leather as well as from the so-called primary production. Such a concentration of obviously
manufacturing waste most probably indicates presence of a shoemaker’s workshop.
Generally it can be concluded that the analysed collections represent a very interesting example of
medieval clothing culture, equipment and gear from the second half of 13th and 14th century which
exactly fits the context of the period of the last of Přemyslid dynasty and the beginning of the reign of
Luxemburg dynasty.

Although Bangladesh's livestock population provides a significant resource of raw material for value addition, the export performance of the leather processing sector is poor. Internally sourced raw hides and skins (RHS) dominate the procurement structure, but are subject to cultural-religious traditions. This study seeks to investigate the extent that the three-day Festival of Sacrifice (Eid-ul-Azha), on which every year Muslims sacrifice millions of animals to Allah and which accounts for more than 40% of the annual RHS production constrains the industry's competitiveness. Based on the global value chain approach, our findings are drawn from qualitative data. We show that Eid-ul-Azha leads to a temporary oversupply of RHS, which results in serious challenges in the organization of the value chain. Our results point to the special role of systemic trust ensured by religious requirements for sacrificial animals and thus RHS, which enables middlemen to enter the supply chain temporarily. Despite their flexible and voluminous small-scale collection, temporary middlemen lack experience and competences to adequately assess quality and price, thus affecting the competitiveness of downstream actors, in particular the tanneries. Our findings complement the concept of global value chains by stressing the impact of culture-specific constraints, temporarily available resources and trust in relations to middlemen on the competitiveness of the export-oriented leather industry.

Konveksi Jasa pembuatan jaket kulit custom harga termurah dari produsen dan konveksi jaket kulit Garut. Kamu bisa bikin jaket kulit motor satuan terbaik di kotamu (Jakarta, bekasi). Call 08112132798.
Aneka model desain jaket bomber, parka dengan asesoris hoodie atau model terbaru lainnya siap dibantu pembuatannya oleh perusahaan Konveksi Jasa pembuatan jaket kulit custom, Enjoy Leather. Jaket kulit pria atau wanita boleh menjadi alternatif terbaik buat siapa pun, khususnya bagi yang menyenangi untuk pakai Jaket kulit pria atau wanita. Laki-laki, cewe, dan anak muda era sekarang gak sedikit yang pake Jaket kulit pria atau wanita buat kegiatannya. Penunggang motor harley yg sering berkegiatan outdoor memakai Jaket kulit pria atau wanita untuk melindungi tubuh ketika berkendara. Bikin Jaket Kulit Motor Satuan Jaket kulit pria atau wanita betul-betul banyak keuntungan. Tak hanya dari sisi estetiknya sahaja, melainkan juga karena nyaman dan dayanya proteksi badan si pemakai. Bahkan, beberapa klub atau kelompok sosial club motor tertentu mengenakan Jaket kulit pria atau wanita kulit. So, salah satu fungsi Jaket kulit pria atau wanita kulit yaitu sebagai wasilah untuk menyokong aktivitas mereka yang memerlukan kenyamanan serta safety. Tips Memilih Produsen Konveksi Jasa pembuatan Jaket Kulit Ada banyak sentra, konveksi dan penyedia Jaket kulit pria atau wanita kulit baik offline ataupun online. Anda dapat beli langsung di warung lalu memeriksa kualitas serta keaslian prodak itu. Kamu juga bisa beli di warung online kalau menginginkan proses yang lebih mudah. Anda tak perlu pergi keluar secara khusus untuk membeli Jaket kulit pria atau wanita. Tetapi, Anda perlu waspada dalam menjalankan belanja via online. Alasannya, pembeli tidak memeriksa langsung produk secara visual. Makanya, kami sarankan untuk melakukan pembelian di warung yg terbaik dan terjamin kualitas barangnya. Bisa mengikuti desain merk luar negeri Sebagian merek Jaket kulit pria atau wanita kulit yg tenar banyak berasal dari negeri tetangga misal All Saints dan Marc Jacobs. Belanjanya tak mesti dilakukan di manca negara. Di Indonesia ada banyak penjual legal yg menyuplai Jaket kulit pria atau wanita kulit genine dari luar negeri. Cuma perlu waspada agar tak tertipu dengan seller nakal yang mengklaim asli dari luar negeri. Banyak model terbaru Ada bermacam macam Jaket kulit pria atau wanita dilihat dari kegunannya, diantaranya jaket pilot, double rider motorcycle jackets, dan jaket motor racing. Jaket kulit pria atau wanita ini mempunyai kelebihan masing-masing dalam hal kegunaan dikarenakan Jaket kulit pria atau wanita dihasilkan dengan tujuan tertetu.

The aim of this research was to explore the feasibility of converting sheep stomach into new leather and leather products that add value to Leather Park. For this purpose, nine pieces of raw sheep stomach were taken into leather processing operation i.e. soaking, liming, de-liming, bating, pickling, tanning, finishing etc. After that some physical and chemical tests are subsequently performed i.e. tensile strength, tearing strength, stitch tear strength, color fastness, shrinkage temperature etc. The findings of physical tests have been poor in comparison with grain leather because the composition of raw animal and stomach coverings is different. The stomach leathers can be used as novelty leather material for preparing the key case, bracelet, wrist watch band, earring or necklace.

La collection des cuirs de la Place Saint-Germain est exceptionable tant dans sa diversité que dans sa quantité de pièces, révélant la présence de nombreux objets en cuir sur le site, entre le 10e siècle et le 17e siècle. Elle concentre notamment de nombreuses pièces de chaussures qui ont permis d’effectuer une typo-chronologie des contextes. L’étude a aussi révèle également des pièces rares en lien avec les parties de harnachement du cheval ainsi que des fourreaux de couteaux et nombreux éléments de chutes témoignant des artisanats du cuir.

On the isle of Terschelling (NL) a rare hide of Russia Leather (Cuir de Russia) was discovered by an amateur archeologist. It was found in a gully on the bottom of the tidal sea. It came from a so far unknown ship importing these specific and costly hides from Russia somewhere between the 16th and 19th c. It was well kept after centuries of salt water. Russia leather was the well appreciated working material for luxury items in those days.

This paper examines the impact of major variables affecting the export performance of leather goods from Pakistan using a primary data source. The exporters and traders from Sindh province were taken as sampling frames. In Karachi, leather production and export facilities are primarily located in Korangi Industrial Area. A representative sample of 51, including leather exporters and traders, were selected purposively from the total population of leather exporters. The leather sector is facing a number of challenges including a low technological base, lack of research and development, lack of trained manpower, low quality standards and, in that case, Pakistan is losing its share in the international market as compared to regional countries in the leather sector because of overpriced or high cost of production.

Indian mangoes are considered highly perishable products due to high moisture content which resulted in high postharvest losses in Pangasinan, Philippines. This study exploits the potential of underutilized indian mango to value-added products. The developed indian mango leather and osmo-dehyrated indian mango are dehydrated fruit products can be eaten as snacks or desserts. Indian mango leather was prepared by mixing fruit puree and other additives like sugar, citric acid, and sodium metabisulphite and then dehydrated them at 55 °C for 15 hours under convective oven. Osmo-dehydrated indian mango was prepared by immersing halves of deseeded and deskinned pulps in 50 % (w/w) sucrose solution for 20 hours followed by drying initially at 50 °C then after one hour at 60 °C for 15 hours. Thirty-three member untrained panels were involved in consumer acceptance evaluation. Panelists evaluated the color, sweetness, sourness, texture, and overall acceptability of the osmotically-treated indian mango and indian mango leather using seven-point hedonic scale. Overall , the indian mango leather and osmo-dehydrated indian mango developed in this study seemed to be acceptable for all the sensory parameters as indicated by high scores of greater than five (>5). INTRODUCTION Mango (Mangifera indica L.) is considered as one of the most important fruit crops of the country and dubbed as the national fruit. It is also recognized as king of fruits in tropical countries due to its excellent flavor, attractive aroma, beautiful shades of color, delicious taste and high nutritive value [1]. Region 1 is the leading producer of mango in the country with 59.99 thousand metric tons contributing 55.60 % to the national total. Pangasinan contributes 72.21 % of the total production in the region. Carabao mango comprised 81.8 % and other varieties such as pico and indian comprised the 18.2 % [2]. According to the Department of Agriculture (DA), the demand for mango products has been increasing over time, brought about by increasing incomes and population preferences for healthy foods and freer flow of goods in the global market because of the reduction in trade barriers.

Artificially aging treatment for different times affects the structure and conformation of collagen in leather, resulting in the degradation of leather. Proline and hydroxyproline are attacked during aging process. More free amino acids are released from the collagen macromolecular chain due to aging. A close examination of amide I and amide II bands showed an increasing content of random coil, suggesting a decreasing in the triple helix structural stability of collagen in leather. However, the present results merely provide an early sign for degradation of leather.

The leather bindings of Armenian manuscripts serve as an important witness to the origins and the style of leather covers going back to their inception for the codex in early paleo-Christian times.  The study is among the first to isolate a school of Armenian bookbinding with its specificity and characteristics.  In this case that of New Julfa, the colony established by the forced emigration of Armenians from Julfa on the Arax River by Shah Abbas in 1604-5 to his capital of Isfahan during the long Ottoman-Safavid wars of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries.  A new manner of decorating the leather covers by stamping was devised in this isolate colony displaying influence from Western practices through contact with Dutch-Flemish merchants and diplomats to the Safavid court, individuals who often resided in this Christian Armenian suburb across the river from Isfahan.  Other regional schools of Armenian manuscript binding need to be more aggressively studied, though for silver bindings, especially those of Caesarea/Kayseri, in the seventeenth century, this has been done.

ENG: A brief account of the restoration under direct management by the Directorate (Superintendency) for Cultural Heritage of the Autonomous Province of Trento of two painted leather altarpieces of the church of San Nicolò in Predazzo (Trentino). The works were followed on behalf of the Superintendency by Giovanni Dellantonio and Francesca Raffaelli with the help of Sergio Chini. The restoration work was carried out by the restorer Claudius Schettino of the Philobiblion Restoration Laboratory in Florence and by the restorer Elena Bartolozzi.
ITA: Breve resoconto del restauro in diretta amministrazione da parte della Soprintendenza per i beni culturali della Provincia autonoma di Trento di due paliotti in cuoio dipinti della chiesa di San Nicolò a Predazzo (Trentino). I lavori sono stati seguiti per conto della Soprintendenza da Giovanni Dellantonio e Francesca Raffaelli con l'ausilio di Sergio Chini. Il lavoro di restauro è stato eseguito dal restauratore Claudius del Laboratorio di restauro Philobiblion di Firenze e dalla restauratrice Elena Bartolozzi.

Abstrak The aim of research non manufacturing of waterproof leather for shoe upper is to find the best formula in producing waterproof cow hide leather for shoe uppers. Today, the tanners trying their best effort to fulfill the shoes. The research used salted raw cow hide 18 sides were utilized. Leather treatment process begining with soaking stage up to tanning stage and using the same formula in each treatment. In the fatliquoring stage, the treatment varied in the number of fatliquoring chemical material were 8,10, and 12 % respectively. Whereas, the amount of was silicon added in the dyeing process were 5,7.5, and 10 % respectively. The quality of the leather was physically examined accordance with testing method of ISO. 8782-1998 € and DIN standard. The results performed that the best formula was sample with addition of fatliquoring 12 % and silicon5%.

It is known that the Ottoman state implemented austere certification of products monitored by organizations such as ihtisab office/ office of the superintendent of guilds and markets and akhi office/urban fraternity ruling over parts of Anatolia in late Seljuk and early Ottoman times. The monitoring process that was implemented based on religio-legal perspective or material quality aspect moved to an important phase with a critical decision made in modern times: The seal of “it is clean/tâhirdir” was introduced to include inedible products for the first time to be supervised by religio-legal standarts. This decision was made to protect Muslims from products that might contained harmful ingredients according to religio-legal norms. This move was made before the kosher certification that was formed within the Jewish community in America, which became a certain measure of food standart later in the world. This decision also can provide historical background for the practice of halal food certificates in the world. The Notion of “it is clean” becomes more evident in the midst of today‟s world where genetically modified organisms became so widespread to the level that threatens the health of human generation now. This article aims to study the relevant Ottoman official documents on this issue probably for the first time, and share them with the academic world.
Osmanlı devleti ve toplumunda ürünlerin, standartları hisbe/ihtisap ve ahîlik teşkilatları gibi kurumlar vasıtasıyla denetlenen oldukça ciddi sertifikasyon uygulamasına tabi tutuldukları bilinmektedir. Gerek dinî/şer‛î boyutuyla gerekse maddi/nesnel kalite yönleriyle yürütülen bu denetleme işlemi, modern zamanlarda gerçekten çok çarpıcı bir kavşak noktasına ulaştırılmıştır: Özellikle dinî/şer‛î ölçütlerin gıda ürünleri dışındaki ürünlerde de gözetilerek Müslümanların kullanmalarında sakınca bulunmayan ürünlere tâhirdir damgası vurulması kararı, Amerika‟daki Yahudi toplumu içinde gelişerek günümüzde evrensel bir gıda standardı ölçütü olmaya
doğru giden kosher sertifikasyonundan uzun yıllar önce alınmış olması cihetiyle de büyük bir önem taşımaktadır. Gıda dışı ürünler için bile bu kadar hassas davranılmış olması, alınan kararın gıda ürünleri için çok daha bağlayıcı olduğu manası dışında yorumlanamaz. Bu karar aynı zamanda, gıda ürünleri için ülkemizde ve dünyada helâl gıda sertifikası uygulamasına geçilmesi arayışlarıyla ilgili sürecin tarihi altyapısını temin etme konusunda da önemli bir boşluğu dolduracaktır. Gıda anarşisinin boyutlarını, insan neslini bozma ve fıtrî davranışları değiştirme tehdidini bünyesinde barındıran hormonlu, ebter ve genetiği değiştirilmiş ürünlere kadar ulaştırdığı günümüzde konunun bütün insanlık için önemi daha fazla tebarüz etmektedir. Ayrıca kullanılması istenen mühürde yer alması kararlaştırılan tâhirdir ibaresi, helâl gıda sertifikasyonunda bulunması gerekecek damga/etiket ismi için de fikir verecektir. Bu incelemede, konuya ilişkin Osmanlı resmi belgeleri muhtemelen ilk defa incelenmekte ve değerlendirilmektedir.

Abstrak The possibility to apply unhairing liming method of Herfeld in Indonesia is the purpose of this research. As a comparison it was perform unhairing and liming method of the institute for Research and Development of Leather and Allied Industries (IRDAI). In this research used 18 piecies of green salted cured goat skin. For each treatment used 3 pieces of green salted cured goat skin and it was done three times. The pelts output were visually investigation for the loose of the hair, the condition of the grain surface and the plump. The output of the visually investigation point out, that the hair were loose easily, the condition of the grain surface of the pelts were clean and the pelts were well plump. Practical meaning of this research is, unhairing and liming method of herfeld may be applied in Indonesia.

Abstrak The objective of this research was to produce sulfonated oil of fleshing grease and to use for fat liquoring process in leather tanning industries. Fleshing wastes were collected from Yogyakarta. The extract was obtained from fleshing waste by boiling at 100o C for 15 minute 400 – 450 g of extract contained 99.96% of fat were obtained from 5 kg of fleshing. The extract then was sulfonated to increase solubility in water and more reactive with the fiber of processed skin. The sulfonated extract was then analyzed to determine content, iodine value, acid value and saponification value. The result of analysis showed that fat/grease content 158.48. While fat content of goat skin fleshing was 30.27%, iodine value 92.30, acid value 23.74and saponification value 157.03. The quantity parameters are able to meet requirement for leather tanning. Sulfonated extract was then used for fat liquoring process of goat skin with the variation of concentration 4,5 and 6% respectively. Control was made by using 5% synthetic oil. The result of crust testing in this research showed that all of quality parameters meet the document of SNI 06-3536-1994 about goat/sheep crust leather.

Functional bone objects Ear spoon and one-piece handle in bone (Pictures A. Champagne) Pieces of bone veneer (Pictures A. Champagne) Utensils, tools, 20 0 5 cm 0 5 cm 0 5 cm 0 5 cm Ninety-six pieces of bone, horn and ivory were recovered, an unusually large assemblage for a "non-workshop" type of site. Many decorated, ornamental plaques were recovered, likely belonging to hunting firearms (muquet, ar-quebus, pistols); their materials and traits suggest a late 16th century and early 17th century German influence (Nuremberg, Augsburg). Worked bone The humid depositional environment at the site favored the conservation of leather. Ninety-eight lots, dating to the early sixteenth century, were recovered : purses, holsters or cases, sheaths, offcuts and shoes. Leather Section view of two variants of welted stit-ching, typical of modern shoemaking Section view of two variants of turnshoe construction (before 1520) A range of elements showing the transition between two technical ...

Lubricants and leather dressings are the most common treatments of dry and water logged historical leathers. Color change has a great importance during the time and treatment process, due to visual and aesthetic values of historic leather relics. Polyethylene glycol (PEG) and silicone oil (SiO) are frequently used leather dressings in the conservation procedures. Therefore, color stability of treated leathers with PEG and SiO were investigated before and after heat accelerated aging. Moreover, application of ascorbic acid was evaluated as an antioxidant additive for PEG (PEG+AA).Color change after treatment and aging were studied by colorimetry technique in the CIE *L*a*b system. Results indicated to severe color alteration in PEG treated and aged leathers with or without ascorbic acid. Whereas, SiO treated samples showed better stability and minimum color shift after aging. Silicone oil was characterized as the best dressing for historical leathers with compared to PEG and PEG+AA, ...

There is a consensus among the historians and specially the labour historians about the negative impact of colonial rule on India. The colonial rule has been blamed for ruining the traditional village crafts, indigenous works, industries and destroying the village based self sufficient economy. It is often argued that India was a very rich country before the colonial authorities plundered this country to satisfy their greed. These narratives define the colonial authorities as being the exploiter and villain and India as being victim and oppressed. These opinions, views and worldviews more or less are largely shared by nationalists, Marxists and ultra nationalists. There is a consensus on the bad effect of colonial rule on India but most of the thinkers and articulators are hesitant to talk about the situation before. Whether India was really a prosperous, equal, egalitarian and just society before the colonial rule?. Was colonial rule equally bad for all the people and section?. The discourse has been formed in such a way that we are not allowed to ask these questions or we do not come to these questions readily (or at all). Discussion on these questions will lead us into the more brutal, cruel and problematic area in history. This poses another question who is afraid of this and why they are afraid? This is where one senses the ideological and political factors playing a major role in determining the very nature, forms of knowledge generation processes. The nature of colonial rule was exploitative beyond doubt but they were not solely responsible for all the ills of the society as projected by many

The aim of the research was to make use of cow scrotum hides to be raw material in leathergood manufacturing. Forty five pieces of scrotum hides were tanned to crust leather using subsequently 6%, 8% and 10% mineral tanning agent; 15%, 20% and 25% vegetable tanning agent; 15%, 20% and 25% synthetic tanning agent. The physical test results indicated that scrotum cow hides were able to be made use as raw material in leathergood manufacturing. The best tensile strength value was achieved by those tanned with mineral tanning agent 10% (175,33 kg/cm2) and the best elongation at break was achieved by those tanned with synthetic tanning agent 15% (41,00%). Where as by using vegetable tanning agent, no single sample fulfilled the requirements of SNI. 06-0253-1989, Quality and Testing method for Glaced Kid Leather.

Abstrak Reactive dyes are dyeshtffs that can reactwith cellulose or proteiru It has small molecular weight, water soluble and binds covalently to the fiber and provives good calourfastness on washfastness and perspiration resistance. Mainly leather for garment is dyed using aniontc dyeinffs, but the use of reactive dyes is not commonfor leather dyeing. In the present study, an atternpt the use of reactive dyes with variation concentration of 10, I 5 and 20 %. The aim of the research was to determine the fficts of using reactive dyes on colourfastness and morphologt tilapia skinfor garment leather The raw material in this research were wet salted tilapia skin. The test parameters were washfastness and perspiration resistance and visual test on microscopic of collagen f.ber. The results showed that the use of reactive dyes affected on washfastness and perspiration resistance. The best concentration of reactive dyes was 15 96 and gave better washfastness and perspiration resistancewith the value of 5.