Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
  • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
  • A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
  • A61K8/4933—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having sulfur as an exocyclic substituent, e.g. pyridinethione
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/67—Vitamins
  • A61K8/676—Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/86—Polyethers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
  • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/002—Aftershave preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
  • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
  • A61K2800/884—Sequential application

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a cosmetic skin treatment process involving a compound, or set of compounds, capable of condensing in situ.
• the Applicant has shown that it is possible to form in the surface layers of the skin or on the skin a condensate conferring on the skin a property of capturing compounds of cosmetic interest.
• This so-called “capture” layer is formed by in situ condensation of at least one compound or set of compound A which will be described later.
• the advantageous properties obtained by the process according to the invention are in particular: an acceleration of the kinetics of action of the compound of cosmetic interest,
• An object of the present invention therefore relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of the skin, comprising the application on the skin:
• a compound C of cosmetic interest comprising a reactive function Fc capable of forming a covalent bond by reaction with the function F A -
• the Applicant has in fact been able to demonstrate that the application of these two types of compounds on the skin makes it possible to confer localized, rapid and tenacious cosmetic properties.
• the capture layer is formed in situ in the superficial layers of the skin by condensation of a compound or a set of compounds A.
• the subject of the invention is also the use of a compound or set of compounds A capable of being condensed in situ and exhibiting at least one free reactive function F A after condensation, as a capture agent on or in the skin of a compound of cosmetic interest.
• the subject of the invention is therefore also the use of a compound or set of compounds A capable of being condensed in situ and having at least one free reactive function F A after condensation, for capture on or in the skin of the skin.
• a compound C of cosmetic or dermatological interest comprising a reactive function Fc capable of forming a covalent bond by reaction with the function F A.
• the material resulting from the condensation of A is soluble in water and the compound C of cosmetic interest is chosen so that the reaction of said compound C on the material resulting from the condensation of A lead to a decrease in the solubility of said material in water.
• the invention relates to a method for insolubilizing a condensate in the skin, comprising applying to the skin:
• a compound C of cosmetic interest comprising a reactive functional group Fc capable of forming a covalent bond by reaction with the function F A ,
• the subject of the invention is also a process for reducing the solubility (or even insolubilizing) on or in the skin of the material resulting from the condensation of a compound or set of compounds A capable of condensing in situ and having at least one free reactive function F A after condensation, said material being soluble in water, comprising the application on said material of a compound C of cosmetic interest comprising a reactive function Fc capable of forming a chemical bond which may be covalent or ionic by reaction with the function F A , C being chosen so that the reaction of said compound C on the material resulting from the condensation of A leads to a decrease in the solubility of said material in water.
• An object of the invention also relates to a method for obtaining on or in the skin an insoluble condensate having cosmetic properties, comprising the application on the skin:
• a compound C of cosmetic interest comprising a reactive function Fc capable of forming a covalent or ionic bond by reaction with the function F A , the material resulting from the condensation of A being soluble in water, and
• the invention also relates to the use of a compound C to reduce the solubility (or insolubilize) of a material resulting from the condensation of a compound or set of compounds A capable of being condensed in situ and having at least a reactive function F A free after condensation, said material being soluble in water, C being a compound of cosmetic interest comprising a reactive function Fc capable of forming a covalent or ionic bond by reaction with the function F A.
• the decrease in the solubility of the material resulting from the condensation of A makes it possible moreover to further increase its persistence on and / or in the skin (resistance to water, sweat, sebum, etc.) while maintaining, even strengthening, the cosmetic property conferred by the compound C.
• skin describes the skin or the scalp.
• a compound A capable of condensing in situ is used.
• the compound A must comprise at least two reactive functions: a function allowing the compound A to condense on itself and at least one reactive function F A called capture, or a function leading to the formation of a function F A after condensation.
• a set of compounds A is used.
• This embodiment comprises the implementation of at least two molecules capable of condensing with each other.
• the molecules constituting the set of compounds must comprise one (or more) function (s) allowing condensation of the set A, and one (or more) function (s) allowing the presence of a reactive function F A capture after condensation.
• the function (s) F A is present on only one of the compounds of the set of compounds A.
• the function (s) ) reactive is present on at least two compounds of the set of compounds.
• A2 may not contain a capture function.
• Al has capture functions, or these appear at the end of the condensation reaction.
• the A2 compound can contain capture functions.
• the compound Al may contain no capture function.
• condensation of the set of compounds A can be represented in the following manner.
• Al includes a capture function (compound F A -A1); A2 does not produce condensation: ... A1 -A2 -A1 -A2 -A1 ...
• Al and A2 comprise a capture function (identical or different)
• the method according to the invention comprises:
• the capture function (s) must be at least partly free after condensation of A to react with the compound C.
• the capture function (s) may not exist or be in free form in the compound or set of compounds A but appear or become free at the end of its condensation. It may be, for example, primary amine functions that could appear following the action of enzyme naturally present on the skin.
• the free capture functions after condensation must be in proportion such that Fcapt / A> 0.1 and preferably> 0.5, Fcapt and A respectively represent the quantities in number of free capture functions after condensation and of In other words, there exists after condensation at least one free capture function for 10 molecules of A, preferably at least 5 free capture functions.
• the FA capture functions of the compound or set of compounds A are typically selected from amines and other nucleophilic functions, such as hydroxyl, thiol, sulphate and phosphate functions. Preferentially, it is amines; preferentially, primary amines.
• the condensation of A can come from the reaction of a nucleophilic species on an electrophilic species.
• the condensation functions are typically those allowing the creation of a bond by elimination of a molecule of water according to the following equation:
• the compounds used are organosilanes.
• the condensation can come from the reaction of a species by tearing out a proton of a second species, in particular according to one of the following equations:
• R-CH CH 2 + HR 'R-CH 2 -CH 2 -R'
• R and R ' denote independently of each other any group of atoms, it being understood that the product of the condensation of A must comprise at least one free FA function.
• the condensation is done according to the first alternative described above.
• compound A is an organic silicon compound comprising from 1 to 3 silicon atoms, and at least two hydroxyl or hydrolyzable groups per molecule.
• Compound A is therefore chosen from organosilanes comprising a silicon atom and organosiloxanes comprising two or three silicon atoms, preferably two silicon atoms.
• compound A is an organosilane.
• the compound A may especially be an alkoxysilane, and preferably a functionalized alkoxysilane.
• the set of compounds A may be the mixture of an organic silicon compound as described above (compound A1) and at least one other compound (compound A2) such as the set comprising the organic silicon compound and the compound A2 is capable of condensing in situ.
• the compound A (or at least one of the molecules of the set of compounds A) has the formula: in which :
• R4 is halogen, OR 'or R'j;
• R5 is halogen, OR "or R'2;
• Rg represents a halogen, a group OR '' or R'3;
• R 1, R 2, R 3, R ', R ", R'", R '1, R' 2, R '3 represent, independently of one another, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, optionally bearing additional chemical groups such as acidic or amino groups, wherein R 1, R 2, R ', R “and R'” may further denote hydrogen, and
• R 1, R 2, R ', R "and R'", R '1, R' 2 and R '3 represent an alkyl group of C 1 to C 2, an aryl group of C 1 to C 14, a group C1 to C ⁇ alkyl, C1 to C ⁇ alkyl, and C1 to Cg alkyl, C1 to C C aryl; and R is preferably an alkyl group of Cj to Cj2, aryl Cg ll -C, alkyl of Cj to Cg-Cg aryl to aryl and CJ4 of Cg to C ⁇ -alkyl q -C 8.
• Preferred organosiloxanes in the compositions of the present invention may be represented by the formula:
• R1, R2, R3, R5 and R8 are defined as above;
• R'4 represents a halogen (fluorine, bromine, chlorine or iodine) or a group ORj j;
• R7 represents a halogen, a group ORJ Q OR R "J;
• Rg represents a halogen, a group ORg, R '2 or R NRJR2;
• R "j, R '2, Rg, R10 and Ri j represent a hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally carrying additional chemical groups such as basic solubilizing groups;
• R ⁇ , RJ O and Rg may further designate hydrogen.
• R 1, R 1, R 2 or R 2 and R 5 represent an alkyl group of C 1 to C 12, a C 6 to C 6 aryl group, a C 1 to C 6 alkyl group of C 1 to C 6 alkyl, and a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl aryl group of C 1 to C 6.
• At least one of Rg, Ry and Rg is a halogen or a group OR '', ORI Q OR ORg.
• the halogen is chlorine.
• a particularly preferred class of organic silicon compounds is compounds of the formula:
• radicals R are chosen from alkyl radicals C j C6 alkyl such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl and n is an integer from 1 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4.
• compound A is an alkoxysilane comprising at least one nucleophilic capture function, and in particular ⁇ -aminopropyl triethoxysilane, referred to as APTES in the rest of this text, or a derivative thereof.
• the compound A2 capable of being involved in the process according to the present invention, when a set of compounds A is applied to the skin, may for example satisfy the same definition as the compound A given above.
• the compound A2 can in particular be chosen from molecules having the capacity to form an Si-O-Si bond.
• MTES methyl triethoxysilane
• A is chosen so that condensation occurs only once it has reached the zone where this condensation is to take place.
• compound A can be very reactive, and its condensation can be done on the surface of the skin. Alternatively, the condensation can be done once the compound A has penetrated into the skin in a more or less deep way.
• the compound A, or the set of compounds A is soluble in water because of the reactive functions which it comprises. Given these properties, the material resulting from the condensation of A is also generally soluble in water.
• the compound of cosmetic interest is a compound making it possible to confer at least one specific property on the skin, or a mixture of such compounds, and comprises at least one chemical function Fc that is capable of reacting with at least one of the functions of free capture of the material resulting from the condensation of compound A or the set of compounds A.
• Compound C may also be able to react on itself.
• compound C contains at least one aldehyde or ketone function and is capable of reacting with a primary amine (representing the function F A of the compound or set of compounds A) as follows:
• Compound C may be chosen from simple aldehydes, conjugated aldehydes, aromatic aldehydes such as activated benzaldehydes and ketones, in particular by an attractor group, or conjugation functions.
• the carbonyl functions can be in enol form.
• the carbonyl functions can also be engaged, as for example in the case of acetals, hemiacetals, ketals, and their sulfur equivalents.
• Fc functions of compound C are typically electron-withdrawing groups and thus can be chosen from:
• the vinyl and activated vinyl functions in particular the acrylonitrile, acrylic and methacrylic ester functions,
• vinyl ethers vinyl ketones, maleic esters, vinyl sulfones, maleimides,
• alpha-hydroxyketones alpha-haloketones
• unsaturated ring, carbon or heterocycle halides in particular chlorotriazines, chloropyrimidine, chloroquinoxalines and
• the compounds C which, once they have reacted with the material resulting from the condensation of A, are capable of reacting with a compound D which will react between C molecules or between C and A molecules.
• the invention applies to the treatment of the skin in general.
• Compound A, or the set of compounds A, and compound C are then chosen according to the desired effect on the skin:
• Compounds A and C are thus typically used which, in addition to the requirements described above, give a diffusing or very smooth material.
• C reacts with the material resulting from the reaction of A to give a heterogeneous deposit which, by a light diffusion effect, will reduce the cutaneous gloss. - to modify its flexibility and / or its touch.
• Compounds A and C are then typically used which, in addition to the requirements described above, provide a soft-touch material or a water-capturing or holding material, such as a hygroscopic compound.
• filters can be used to provide durable photoprotection.
• an active molecule can be attached via the invention.
• the compounds A and C are chosen so that the release can be triggered, either by a natural action (this is for example the case of a release triggered by the arrival of perspiration), or by a human action (c This is the case of a particular irradiation, for example light (in particular UV, visible) or heat, so that compounds A and C can be used, such as with a brittle bond, such as thermo or photocleavable.
• Compounds A and C may be applied in one or two stages, possibly with prior, intermediate or subsequent applications of third compounds.
• the kinetics of reaction and penetration and the functions are such that C does not prevent the reaction of A on itself.
• the reaction of C on the reactive function of A is slower than the penetration of A and / or slower than the reaction of A on itself.
• the applications of these compounds are integrated in skincare or makeup routines.
• the application of compound A is incorporated into a skin preparation routine, and the application of compound C is incorporated into a foundation.
• the compounds or sets of compounds A generally have solubility properties in water. Compound A can thus be transported and penetrate the first layers of the skin. Thus, very often, the materials resulting from the condensation of the compounds or sets of compounds A retain a high solubility in water. This is for example the case when compound A is an aminoalkylalkoxysilane such as APTES (see below). This solubility in water of the material derived from compound A lessens its capture effect and more particularly the holding of the capture.
• APTES aminoalkylalkoxysilane
• the functions of compound A which will allow capture are preferably nucleophilic functions, in particular amines. However, these functions contribute to the solubility in water of the compound A but also the material resulting from the reaction of the compound A;
• the reactivity of compound A is preferably chosen to be moderate so that compound A can penetrate more easily into the skin
• compound A and compound C are chosen so that:
• the compound C can react with the material resulting from the reaction of A
• the compounds A and C are chosen so that the material resulting from the condensation of A is soluble in water, and once C has reacted with the material resulting from the condensation of A, said material is insoluble in water.
• Compounds A and C are selected as follows:
• the compound C is applied under conditions allowing its reaction with the material resulting from the condensation of A;
• the compounds A and C are retained which make it possible to obtain a value of PP A + C lower than the value of PP A , since A has been insolubilized with the addition of C.
• the compound A is chosen so that its reactivity is moderate.
• Compound A remains in monomer form for the most part, and does not form more monomer + dimer + trimer.
• the ratio: A m / A (where ml, 2, 3) is greater than 50%, or more preferably greater than 75%;
• the analytical determination is carried out 5 minutes after this action (for example, mixing is carried out at the moment of the job then the analysis is done 5 minutes later).
• the process according to the invention is a cosmetic process for coloring the skin, in which the compound C is a molecule that can give skin color.
• the "color” property designates at least one color effect of the skin that may be, for example, an increase or a change in color, a change in the chromaticity, the appearance of fluorescence, phosphorescence, chemiluminescence, shine or tarnishing.
• compounds A and C are typically used which, in addition to the requirements described above, give a chromophore. It is also possible to use a compound A which is colored, and / or a compound C which is colored, or a compound A and / or a compound C which, colorless, gradually colors. It is also possible to use compounds A and / or C which have a whitening, bleaching or depigmenting effect. In particular, the final color may be more aesthetic than that which would have given compound C in the absence of compound A. For example, it may better match the skin tone or give a more natural appearance.
• Compounds C which give no color in applications outside the present invention give in the present invention interesting color effects. Compound C can be colored. In this case, the invention can in particular be used to improve the color retention. Compound C may not be colored. In this case, the invention serves to make the color appear, and possibly give an appearance to this color.
• the compound C may not be colored or give color by reaction with the compound A.
• the compound C is chosen so that it can give, by a transformation after application, a prior, concomitant or posterior to the reaction with the material resulting from the condensation of A, a colored species.
• compound C can give a colored species by oxidation reaction.
• C may be, in this context a polyphenol, a diamine compound, or an amino hydroxyl compound.
• Compound C can naturally turn into a colored species, or it is possible to trigger or assist the transformation, for example by adding an oxidant, a catalyst or an oxidation enzyme.
• the Applicant has also been able to show that it was possible to modulate the behavior over time of the color effect by adjusting the interval between the application of A and C on the skin. This property can be exploited to obtain upper or intermediate holdings, which are not attainable with the coloring methods conventionally used. For example, you can get a tanned effect for a period of 2 days. Such behavior is surprising compared to that conventionally obtained with current methods, especially with respect to current stains obtained with DHA. It can adapt to those who want to please the time of a weekend for example.
• the self-tanning agents are generally chosen from certain mono or polycarbonyl compounds such as, for example, isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose, pyrazolin-4,5-dion derivatives. as described in patent application FR 2 466 492 and WO 97/35842, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-ones derivatives as described in patent application EP 903 342.
• DHA dihydroxyacetone
• DHA 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-ones derivatives
• Use will be made of preferably DHA.
• DHA may be used in free form and / or encapsulated for example in lipid vesicles such as liposomes, in particular described in application WO 97/25970.
• the self-tanning agent (s) are generally present in proportions ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight and preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.
• the compound C may also be chosen from molecules which, although colorless, are capable of forming colored compounds after their use according to the invention, in particular in the case where the compound A is the APTES (or a film of Poly APTES, product of the condensate of the APTES). Mention may in particular be made of cinnamaldehyde, citronellal and citral.
• the compound C may also be chosen from molecules which are capable of forming fluorescent compounds under UV (optical brighteners) after their application according to the invention, in particular in the case where the compound A is the APTES.
• Nonanal and hydroxycitronellal may be mentioned in particular
• the Applicant has been able to observe the surprising appearance of fluorescence in the areas of the skin where the method according to the invention has been used.
• compounds A and C are typically used which, in addition to the requirements described above, give a diffusing or otherwise very smooth material.
• C may react with the material from the condensation of A to give a powder.
• the method according to the invention is a cosmetic process for conditioning the skin, in which compound C is a molecule capable of modifying the physicochemical properties of the skin.
• compound C is a molecule capable of modifying the physicochemical properties of the skin.
• agents that make it possible to modify the physicochemical properties of the surface of the skin.
• Compounds A and C are therefore typically used which, in addition to the requirements described above, give a material whose surface tension characteristics are different from those of the skin. It is also possible to use compounds A and C which, in addition to the requirements described above, give a material which occludes the passage of certain molecules.
• the conditioning of the skin can be obtained by using a compound C chosen from conditioning polymers. o Conditioner polymers
• conditioning polymers that may be used in the context of the invention may be chosen from the lists below:
• hydrophobic acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) polymers that may be used in accordance with the invention may comprise both a hydrophilic part and a hydrophobic part (amphiphilic polymers) comprising at least one fatty chain.
• the fatty chain present in the polymers of the invention preferably comprises from 7 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 7 to 22 carbon atoms.
• amphiphilic polymers according to the invention generally have a molecular weight in weight ranging from 50,000 to 10,000,000, more preferably from 100,000 to 8,000,000 and even more preferably from 100,000 to 7,000,000.
• the amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.
• the crosslinking agents may be chosen in particular from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA).
• TMPTA trimethylol propane triacrylate
• the degree of crosslinking preferably ranges from 0.01 to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.
• amphiphilic AMPS polymers in accordance with the invention may especially be chosen from AMPS random amphiphilic polymers modified by reaction with a n-monoalkylamine or a C6-C22 di-n-alkylamine such as those described in the application for WO00 / 31154.
• These polymers may also contain other hydrophilic ethylenically unsaturated monomers chosen, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with mono or polyalkylene glycols, acrylamide, methacrylamide or vinylpyrrolidone. , itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures thereof.
• the preferred AMPS polymers of the invention are chosen from amphiphilic polymers of AMPS and at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic part having from 7 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 7 to 22. carbon atoms and even more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
• This hydrophobic part may be a linear, saturated or unsaturated (for example n-octyl, n-decyl, nhexadecyl, n-dodecyl, oleyl), branched (for example isostearic) or cyclic (for example cyclododecane or adamantane) alkyl radical.
• These same polymers may additionally contain one or more hydrophilic ethylenically unsaturated comonomers such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their alkyl substituted derivatives or their esters obtained with mono or polyalkylene glycols, acrylamide, methacrylamide and vinylpyrrolidone, and itaconic acid or maleic acid.
• These same polymers may additionally contain one or more hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated comonomers comprising, for example:
• a fluorinated or alkylfluorinated C7-C18 radical for example the group of formula - (CH 2 ) 2 - (CF 2 ) 9 -CF 3 );
• cholesteryl radical or a radical derived from cholesterol (for example, cholesteryl hexanoate);
• aromatic polycyclic group such as naphthalene or pyrene
• hydrophobic monomers containing ethylenic unsaturation of the invention are preferably chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula (1) below:
• R27 denotes a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical (preferably methyl); Y is O or NH; R28 denotes a hydrophobic radical comprising a fatty chain having from 7 to 30, preferably from 7 to 22, and more particularly from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
• the hydrophobic radical R28 is preferably chosen from linear C7-C22 alkyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated (for example n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl, oleyl), branched (for example isostearic) or cyclic (eg cyclododecane or adamantane); C7-C18 alkylperfluorinated radicals (for example the formula group - (CH2) 2- (CF2) -CF 3 ); the cholesteryl radical or a cholesterol ester such as cholesteryl hexanoate; polycyclic aromatic groups such as naphthalene or pyrene.
• linear C7-C22 alkyl radicals saturated or unsaturated (for example n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl, oleyl),
• the hydrophobic radical R 28 additionally comprises at least one alkylene oxide unit and preferably a polyoxyalkylene chain.
• the polyoxyalkylene chain is preferably composed of ethylene oxide units and / or propylene oxide units and even more particularly consists solely of ethylene oxide units.
• the number of moles of oxyalkylenated units generally varies from 1 to 30 moles and more preferably from 1 to 25 moles and even more preferably from 3 to 20 moles.
• crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers neutralized or not, comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40 to 85% by weight of (C 8 -C 16) alkyl (meth) acrylamide units or (C 8 -C 16) units ) alkyl (meth) acrylates with respect to the polymer, such as those described in EP-A-750 899;
• terpolymers comprising from 10 to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 to 80 mol% of n- (C6-C18) alkylacrylamide units, relative to the polymer such as those described in US-A-5,089,578.
• amphiphilic polymers mention may also be made of the copolymers of completely neutralized AMPS and of n-dodecyl, n-hexadecyl and / or noctadecyl methacrylate, as well as the uncrosslinked and crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide. .
• crosslinked or non-crosslinked amphiphilic copolymers consisting of:
• X + is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth cation or the ammonium ion;
• n and p independently of one another, denote a number of moles and range from 0 to 30, preferably from 1 to 25 and more preferably from 3 to 20 with the proviso that n + p is less than or equal to at 30, preferably less than 25 and more preferably less than 20;
• R27 has the same meaning indicated above in formula (1) and R29 denotes a linear or branched alkyl having m carbon atoms, m ranging from 7 to 22, preferably from 12 to 22.
• the cation X + denotes more particularly sodium or ammonium.
• the monomers of formula (3) mention may be made
• esters of (meth) acrylic acid and of fatty oxoalcohol in polyoxyethylenated Ci at 8 OE such as the product GENAPOL UD-080 sold by CLARIANT;
• esters of (meth) acrylic acid and C12-C14 polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol at 7 OE such as the product GENAPOL LA-070 sold by CLARIANT;
• esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylene fatty alcohol C12-C14 to 11 EO such as the product GENAPOL LA-110 sold by CLARIANT;
• esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C16-C18 to 8 OE such as the product GENAPOL T-080 sold by CLARIANT;
• esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C16-C18 to 15 EO such as the product GENAPOL T-150 sold by Clariant;
• esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C16-C18 to 11 EO such as the product GENAPOL T-1 10 sold by CLARIANT;
• esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C16-C18 to 20 EO such as the product GENAPOL T-200 sold by CLARIANT;
• esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C16-C18 at 25 OE such as the product GENAPOL T-250 sold by CLARIANT; and esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C18-C22 at 25 EO and / or polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol at C16-C18 at 25 EO.
• amphiphilic polymers are described and synthesized in application EP1069142.
• initiators such as, for example, azobisisobutyronitrile (AIBN), azobisdimethylvaleronitrile, hydrochloride of 2,2-azobis- [2- amid
• amphiphilic polymers may in particular be obtained by radical polymerization in tert-butanol medium in which they precipitate.
• precipitation polymerization in tert-butanol it is possible to obtain a particle size distribution of the polymer which is particularly favorable for its uses.
• the reaction may be conducted at a temperature between 0 and 150 ° C, preferably between 10 and 100 ° C, either at atmospheric pressure or under reduced pressure. It can also be carried out under an inert atmosphere, and preferably under nitrogen.
• the polymers according to the invention are preferably neutralized partially or totally by a mineral or organic base such as those mentioned above.
• the molar concentration in% of the units of formula (2) and units of formula (3) in the amphiphilic polymers according to the invention varies according to the desired cosmetic application, the nature of the emulsion (oil-in-water water or water-in-oil) and the rheological properties of the desired formulation. It can vary between 0, 1 and 99.9 mol%.
• the amphiphilic AMPS polymers of the invention which are not very hydrophobic will be more suitable for the thickening and / or the stabilization of the oil-in-water emulsions.
• the molar proportion of units of formula (3) will preferably vary from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly from 1 to 25% and even more particularly from 3 to 10%.
• the more hydrophobic amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention will be more suitable for the thickening and / or the stabilization of the water-in-oil emulsions.
• the molar proportion of units of formula (3) will preferably vary from 50.1 to 99.9%, more particularly from 60 to 95% and even more particularly from 65 to 90%.
• the distribution of the monomers in the polymers of the invention may be, for example, alternating, block (including multiblock) or any.
• Aristoflex HMS As an indication and without limitation, mention will be made of the following commercial references: Aristoflex HMS, Aristoflex LNC, Aristoflex SNC and Aristoflex HMB marketed by Clariant.
• these hydrophobic polymers of AMPS as described can be used as additives in an emulsion, and in this case will be solubilized preferentially in the aqueous phase thereof, or as emulsifiers. In this case, they allow the formation of O / W emulsions as described in the applications WO02 / 055039, WO02 / 055038, EP1353642, EP1353633, WO02 / 055052, FR2853544 and EP1466587.
• the water-soluble silicones that may be used in the invention are preferably chosen from the compounds of general formulas (I) and (II):
• the radicals R5 which may be identical or different, denote a monovalent hydrocarbon radical chosen from alkyl, aryl and aralkyl groups containing not more than 10 carbon atoms and preferably chosen from C1-C4 lower alkyls such as methyl, ethyl or butyl; or else chosen from phenyl and benzyl and even more preferably all of them refer to methyl; some of the R5 radicals may also contain one plus one ethylcyclohexylenemonooxide group and are in low proportion in the polysiloxane chain;
• u is 5 to 59, preferably 10 to 50 and more preferably 12 to 25;
• - v is 3 to 12, preferably 4 to 10 and more preferably 5 to 8;
• x is 1 to 8, preferably 2 to 4 and more preferably 3;
• y and z being chosen so that the total molar mass of the radical E ranges from 200 to 10,000 g / mol and more preferably from 350 to 3,000; preferably, the number z is equal to zero.
• R6 denotes a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl radical (preferably C1-C4 alkyl as methyl) or a C2-C8 acyl radical (preferably C2-C4 acyl).
• the oxyethylene and oxypropylene units may be distributed in the polyether chain E randomly and / or in block form.
• Such silicones are for example sold by OSI under the trade names Silwet L-720 ®, ® Silwet L-7002, Silwet L-7600 ®, Silwet L-7604 ®, Silwet
• the block copolymers used in the process according to the invention are in particular amphiphilic, nonionic, diblock or triblock block polymers, which can form, in contact with water, micelles, vesicle-type particles (for example liposomes) or lyotropic liquid crystal phases lamellar, cubic (direct or inverse) or hexagonal (direct or inverse) in contact with water. They are in particular of the diblock (AB) or triblock (ABA) type, A corresponding to a nonionic hydrophilic polymeric block and B to a hydrophobic polymeric block.
• the molecular weight of the polymers can be between 1000 and 100,000 and the ratio A / B can be between 1/100 and 50/1.
• the block copolymers used can in particular be chosen from amphiphilic block polymers based on polystyrene.
• the hydrophobic polymeric block can then be chosen from polystyrene and poly (tert-butylstyrene).
• the nonionic hydrophilic polymeric block is preferably selected from polyethylene oxide (POE) and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP).
• POE polyethylene oxide
• PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
• Tegomer SE 1010 and SE 1030 from the company Goldschmidt (cf the applications EP1555984 and epl413290 which describe the use of block polymers in sunscreen compositions).
• the block copolymers used can also be chosen from polyoxyethylenated amphiphilic block polymers
• the hydrophobic polymeric block of the invention may correspond to:
• R is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7,
• X is selected from:
• R' is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms.
• the compound (A) can be methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate,
• the nonionic hydrophilic polymeric block is preferably selected from polyethylene oxide (POE) and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP).
• the block copolymer is preferably chosen from the following block copolymers:
• TegomerBE 1010 and BE 1030 as well as Tegomer ME 1010 and ME 1030 from the company Goidsclimidt (cf. applications EP1555984 and epl413290 which describe the use of block polymers in sunscreen compositions) the polysaccharides chosen from:
• the preferred derivatives are hydroxyethylcelluloses with a molecular weight of between 50,000 and 2,000,000, carboxymethylcelluloses such as Aqualon's Blanose LF7, hydroxypropylcelluloses, hydrophobic C10-C30 cellulose derivatives such as Hercules' Natrosol 330+ and Polysurf 67 from Aqualon;
• Xanthan gums such as Keltrol T from CP Kelco and Guar as Jaguar HP 105 from Rhodia;
• alginates which may be esterified, such as Kelcoloid O from CP Kelco (esterification rate of 80-85%);
• F) fructose derivatives such as Sochibo / Bioland Fructan
• Rhamnose derivatives such as Rhamnosoft of Solabia
• POE-POP-POE triblock derivatives such as poloxamers, soluble in water (1% clear solution in water at room temperature). ambient) and having a molecular weight (MW) greater than 8000.
• Poloxamer 338 POE-POP-POE: 128/54/128
• Poloxamer 407 POE-POP-POE: 98/67/98
• Poloxamer 188 POE-POP-POE: 75/30/75
• Poloxamer 238 POE-POP-POE: 97/39/97).
• polyamino acid derivatives such as polyglutamic acid such as Ishumaru Pharcos Bio PGA solution, polyaspartic acid such as AquaDew SPA-30 of Ajinomoto, polyleucine and polylysine such as polylysine and Epsilon polylysine from Chisso corporation. galacturonic acid derivatives such as Fluka Dextran. copolymers of maleic anhydride or succinic anhydride such as Clariant's Licocare PP207 and Wacker Chemistry's Wacker GF20. methyl vinyl ether / ethyl monomaleate copolymers such as Gantrez ES225 from ISP. the poly (alkyloxazoline) derivatives:
• RI is a C1-C4 lower alkyl radical, and preferably an ethyl group and has a value such that the molecular weight is at least 10000.
• the oxazoline polymers of formula (1) have a molecular weight greater than 10,000, generally between 20,000 and 1,000,000, and preferably between 50,000 and 500,000, and are prepared by polymerization of 2-alkyl 2-oxazoline.
• the preferred polymers are homopolymers of ethyloxazoline having a molecular weight of between 20,000 and 1,000,000, and more particularly those sold under the name of PEOX by DOW CHEMICAL Company having molecular weights of 50,000 to 500,000.
• a more particularly preferred polymer according to the invention is represented by an homopolymer of ethyloxazoline with a molecular weight of 50000.
• PEOX PM 50000
• PEOX PM 200000
• PEOX PM 500000
• POLYMER XAS-10874.01 or SigmaAldrich, sold under the names Poly (2-ethyloxazoline) PM 50000, Poly (2-ethyloxazoline) PM 200000 and Poly (2-ethyloxazoline) PM 500000.
• Polymers comprising a methacryloyloxethyl phosphorylcholine (MPC) group are particularly effective in improving the water retention properties on the surface of the skin and the hair.
• MPC methacryloyloxethyl phosphorylcholine
• acrylic polymer group phosphorylcholine type is meant a polymer having an acrylic backbone and comprising pendant groups (or side chains) containing a group of formula (I) below:
• R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently denote an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms;
• R 4 denotes - (CH 2 -CHR 6 ) m - (CH 2 -CHR 6 ) - with R 8 denoting a hydrogen atom, a methyl or ethyl group, and m denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 10;
• R 5 denotes - (CH 2 ) g -, g being an integer ranging from 2 to 10.
• Such a polymer can be obtained by polymerization of acrylic monomer comprising the group of formula (I) described above, referred to hereinafter in the description of the acrylic monomer PC.
• R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently denote an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms; n represents an integer ranging from 2 to 4; R 7 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group.
• PC acrylic monomer mention may be made of the following monomers:
• 2- (meth) acryloyloxyethyl-2'- (trimethylammonio) ethyl phosphate also called 2-
• the acrylic polymer PC used according to the invention is a polymer obtained by polymerization of a PC acrylic monomer as described above and optionally of one or more additional monomers different from the acrylic monomer PC.
• the additional monomers may be chosen from methyl (meth) acrylate, ethyl (meth) acrylate, butyl (meth) acrylate, (meth) acrylic acid, (meth) acrylamide, (meth) 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, ethyl vinyl ether, butyl vinyl ether, N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl chloride, ethylene, isobutylene, acrylonitrile, styrene, methyl styrene, chloromethyl styrene.
• the acrylic polymer PC may comprise from 40 to 100 mol% of units derived from the acrylic monomer PC as described above and from 0 to 60 mol% of units derived from additional monomer.
• the polymer with a phosphorylcholine group is chosen from 2- (methacryloyloxyethyl) phosphorylcholine homopolymer, 2- (methacryloyloxyethyl) phosphorylcholine / butyl methacrylate copolymer, 2- (methacryloyloxyethyl) phosphorylcholine / chloride 2 copolymer.
• the acrylic polymer PC preferably has a molecular weight in weight ranging from 50,000 to 1,000,000, and preferably ranging from 80,000 to 800,000.
• acrylic polymers with a phosphorylcholine group it is possible to use:
• CTFA polyquaternium-61.
• Polyvinyl acetate is a vinyl polymer produced by radical polymerization of vinyl acetate monomer and then hydrolyzed, in this case to 88%, to obtain polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), the polymer of interest to us in this study has the following pattern:
• the PVA is used in its hydrolysed form, that is to say in 88% hydrolysed polyvinyl alcohol. It is possible in particular to use the PVA sold under the name CELVOL 540 PV ALCOHOL by the company CELANESE CHEMICALS
• the method according to the invention is a cosmetic process for modifying a biological activity of the skin.
• Compound A can be chosen to allow the material resulting from the condensation of A to retain active molecules (compound C).
• the molecules can be active once fixed on the material resulting from the condensation of A. It is possible in this case to benefit from a prolonged effect of the activity of the active molecule.
• the active molecules can be deactivated by fixation but can be released from the condensate of A and possibly B over time. In this case, it is also possible to benefit from a prolonged activity.
• the subject of the invention is therefore also the use of a compound or set of compounds A capable of being condensed in situ and exhibiting at least one free reactive function F A after condensation, for capturing on the skin and releasing prolonged of a compound C of cosmetic or dermatological interest comprising a reactive function Fc capable of forming a covalent bond by reaction with the function F A.
• the invention also relates to a method of cosmetic or dermatological treatment of the skin with prolonged activity, the application on the skin of a compound or set of compounds A capable of being condensed in situ and having at least one reactive function F A free after condensation, and a compound C of cosmetic or dermatological interest comprising a reactive function Fc capable of forming a covalent bond by reaction with the function F A which can be released from the material from the condensate of A.
• an active molecule can be attached via the invention.
• the compounds A and C are chosen so that the release can be triggered, either by a natural action (this is for example the case of a release triggered by the arrival of perspiration), either by a human action (this is the case of a particular irradiation, for example light (in particular UV, visible) or even heat.
• a natural action this is for example the case of a release triggered by the arrival of perspiration
• a human action this is the case of a particular irradiation, for example light (in particular UV, visible) or even heat.
• compounds A and C as they are equipped with a brittle bond, such as thermo or photocleavable o Skin treatment agents
• Compound C may be a skin treatment agent selected from the following lists.
• - moisturizing or humectant agents Humidifying or moisturizing agents that may especially be mentioned include glycerol and its derivatives, urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance® marketed by National Starch, lactic acids, hyaluromic acid, AHAs, BHAs, pidolate and the like.
• treating agent any compound capable of acting:
• ⁇ -hydroxy acids BHA
• salicylic acid and its derivatives including n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid otherwise known as capryloyl salicylic acid
• AHAs ⁇ -hydroxyacids
• glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic and mandelic acids 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid or 9-octadecene dioic acid
• urea and its derivatives gentisic acid and its derivatives
• oligofucoses cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol and certain jasmonic acid derivatives
• cinnamic acid Saphora japonica extract
• resveratrol and certain jasmonic acid derivatives oligofucoses
• aminosulfonic compounds and in particular 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (procysteine) and its derivatives; drifts glycine-type alpha amino acids (as described in EP-0 852 949, as well as sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name T ILON M); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine.
• HPES 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid
• procysteine 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid
• drifts glycine-type alpha amino acids as described in EP-0 852 949, as well as sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name T ILON M
• oligofructoses EDTA and its derivatives, laminaria extract, o-linoleyl-6D-glucose, (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl) acetic acid, glycerol trilactate, ⁇ -octanyl-6'-D-maltose , S carboxymethyl cysteine, silicon derivatives of salicylate such as those described in patent EP 0 796 861, oligofucases such as those described in patent EP 0 218 200, 5-acyl salicylic acid salts, active agents having effects on transglutaminase, as in patent EP 0 899 330,
• ficus opuntia indica flower extract such as Exfolactive® from Silab
• arginine As agents improving the barrier function, mention may in particular be made of arginine, serine, an extract of Thermus thermophilus such as Sederma's Venuiteane®, a wild yam rhizome extract (Dioscorea villosa) such as Actigen Y® Activated Organics, plankton extracts such as Secma omega plancton®, yeast extracts such as Coletica's Relipidium®, a chestnut extract such as Silab's Recoverine®, a cedar bud extract such as Gatuline Zen® from Gattefossé, sphingosines such as salicyloyl sphingosine sold under the name Phytosphingosine® SLC by the company Degussa, a mixture of xylitol, xylityl polyglycoside and xylitan such as Aquaxyl® from Seppic, solanaceous extracts such as Lipidessence® from Coletica; uns
• Ceramides or derivatives in particular ceramides of type 2 (such as N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine), type 3 (such as stearoyl-4-hydroxysphinganine in INCI name) and type 5 (such as N-2) may also be mentioned in particular.
• hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine, INCI hydroxypalmytoyl sphinganine compounds based on sphingoids, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols, essential fatty acids, diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone and chromone derivatives, petrolatum, lanolin, hours of shea, cocoa butter, lanolin, PCA salts.
• tocopherol and its esters in particular tocopherol acetate; ferulic acid; serine; ellagic acid, phloretin, polyphenols, tannins, tannic acid, epoigallocathechin and natural extracts containing them, anthocyanins, rosemary extracts, extracts of olive leaves such as those of the company Silab , green tea extracts, resveratrol and its derivatives, ergothineine, N acetylcysteine, an extract of brown alga pelvetia canaliculata such as Secma's Pelvetiane®, chlorogenic acid, biotin, chelating agents, such as BHT, BHA, N, N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and its salts; idebenone, plant extracts such as Pronalen Bioprotect TM from Provital; coenzyme Q10, bioflavonoids, SOD
• anti-aging agents include DHEA and its derivatives, boswellic acid, rosemary extracts, carotenoids (beta carotene, zeaxanthin, lutein), cysteic acid, copper derivatives and acid. jasmonic.
• depigmenting agents there may be mentioned in particular alpha and beta arbutines, ferulic acid, lucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, the acid tranexamic acid and its derivatives, gentisic acid, Phomogentisate, methyl gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, D calcium panthetin sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives ceramides and their homologs, plant derivatives such as chamomile, bearberry, the family of aloe (vera, ferox, bardensis), mulberry, skullcap; a water of kiwi fruit (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B®
• Examples that may be mentioned include manganese gluconate and other salts, adenosine, alverine citrate and its salts, glycine, an extract of Iris pallida, a hexapeptide (Argériline R from Lipotec) or sapogenins such as Wild yam and the carbonyl amines described in the application EPI 484052.
• sapogenins examples include those described in the patent application WO02 / 47650, in particular Wild yam, diosgenin extract including Dioscorea opposita or any extract containing naturally or after treatment one or more sapogenins (wild yam rhizome, agave leaf which contains ecogenin and tigogenin, extract of liliaceae and more particularly Yacca or smilax containing smilageine and sarsapogenin, or sarsaparilla root) or Actigen Y from Actives Organics; or ginger.
• sapogenins include those described in the patent application WO02 / 47650, in particular Wild yam, diosgenin extract including Dioscorea opposita or any extract containing naturally or after treatment one or more sapogenins (wild yam rhizome, agave leaf which contains ecogenin and tigogenin, extract of liliaceae and more particularly Yacca or smilax containing smilageine and sars
• DMAE dimethyl MEA
• extracts of sea fennel, adjoin rockrose, helicryse, anise, Para cress, an Acmella Oleracea extract such as Gatuline® expression of Gattefossé may also be mentioned.
• anti-glycation agent a compound that prevents and / or decreases the glycation of skin proteins, in particular dermal proteins, such as collagen.
• anti-glycation agents mention may in particular be made of plant extracts of the family Ericaceae, such as an extract of blueberry (Vaccinium angusfifollium, Vaccinium myrtillus), for example that sold under the name "BLUEBERRY HERBASOL EXTRACT PG" by COSMETOCHEM, ergothioneine and its derivatives, hydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, such as resveratrol and 3,3 ', 5,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (these anti-glycation agents are described in applications FR 2 802 425 , FR 2 810 548, FR 2 796 278 and FR 2 802 420, respectively), dihydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, arginine and lysine polypeptides, such as the product sold under the name Amadorine® by the company Solabia, carcinine hydrochloride (marketed by Exsymol under the name "Alistin®”), an extract of Helianthus annu
• active agents stimulating the macro molecules of the dermis or preventing their degradation there may be mentioned those which act:
• collagen such as extracts of Centella asiatica, asiaticosides and derivatives; ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives; synthetic peptides such as iamin, the biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide marketed by SEDERMA; peptides extracted from plants, such as the soy hydrolyzate marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Phytokine®; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide® from SILAB, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium C® marketed by Exsymol; plant hormones such as auxins and lignans; folic acid; and an extract of Medicago sativa (alfafa) such as that marketed by SILBA under the name Vitanol®; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C®; and arginine;
• MMP metalloproteinases
• retinoids and derivatives extracts of medicago sativa such as Vitanol® from Silab, an extract of aphanizomenon flos-aquae (cyanophyceae) marketed under the name Lanablue® by Atrium Biotechnologies, oligopeptides and lipopeptides, lipoamino acids, the malt extract marketed by the company COLETICA under the Collalift® trade name; extracts of blueberry or rosemary; lycopene; isoflavones, their derivatives or plant extracts containing them, in particular soy extracts (sold for example by the company Ichimaru PHARCOS under the trade name Flavosterone SB®), red clover, flax, kakkon; an extract of lychee such as the extract of lychee pericarp marketed by C
• elastins elastin and fibrillin
• molecules belonging to the family of elastins such as: retinol and derivatives, in particular retinol palmitate; the extract of Saccharomyces Cerivisiae sold by the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin®; and the algae extract Macrocystis pyrifera marketed by SECMA under the trade name Kelpadelie®; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C®;
• elastin such as the peptide extract of seeds of Pisum sativum marketed by the company LSN under the name Parelastyl®; heparinoids; and the N-acylaminoamide compounds described in WO 01/94381 such as ⁇ 2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino ⁇ acetic acid, otherwise known as N- [N] acetyl, N '- (3-trifluoromethyl) phenyl valylglycine or N-acetyl-N- [3- (trifluoromethyl) phenyl] valyl-glycine or acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine, or an ester thereof with a C 1 -C 4 alcohol C6. ; an extract of rice peptides such as Pentapharm's Cothibin®, or an extract of Phyllant
• glycosaminoglycans such as the product of fermentation of milk with lactobacillus vulgaris, marketed by BROOKS under the trade name Biomin yogourth®; the extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica marketed by ALBAN M ⁇ LLER under the trade name HSP3®; the extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae available in particular from Silab under the trade name Firmalift® or from the company LSN under the name commercial Cytovitin®.
• an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca such as Lamina ⁇ ne® from Secma; Mamaku essence from Lucas Meyer, a watercress extract (Odraline® from Silab); or on the synthesis of fibronectin, such as the Salina zooplankton extract sold by Seporga under the trade name GP4G®; yeast extract available in particular from ALBAN M ⁇ LLER under the trademark Drieline®; and the palmitoyl pentapeptide marketed by SEDERMA under the tradename Matrixil®.
• active agents stimulating epidermal macromolecules such as fibrinlins and keratins
• active agents stimulating epidermal macromolecules such as fibrinlins and keratins
• the extract of beech buds Fagus sylvatica marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Gatuline® RC
• Salina zooplankton extract marketed by SEPORGA under the name GP4G®
• the copper tripeptide of PROCYTE a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques under the trademark Filladyn LS 9397®.
• active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation mention may be made of synthetic peptides such as iamin, the biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide marketed by SEDERMA; peptides extracted from plants, such as the soy hydrolyzate sold by the company Coletica under the name Phytokine®; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide® from SILAB, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium C® marketed by Exsymol; folic acid; an extract of Medicago sativa (alfafa) such as that marketed by SILBA under the name Vitanol®; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C®; arginine; an extract of aphanizomenon flos-aquae (cyanophyceae) sold under the name Lanablue® by Atrium Biotechnologie
• an extract of rice peptides such as Pentapharm's Colhibin®, or an extract of Phyllanthus emblica such as Rona Emblica®
• the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract available in particular from the company Silab under the trade name Firmalift® or from the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin®.
• an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca such as Lamina ⁇ ne® from Secma
• an extract of Lamina ⁇ ne® from Secma such as Lamina ⁇ ne® from Secma
• the Mamaku essence of Lucas Meyer the lupine extract marketed by SILAB under the tradename Structunne®
• the extract of beech buds Fagus sylvatica marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Gatuline® RC.
• the agents stimulating the proliferation of flbroblasts may for example be chosen from plant proteins or polypeptides, extracted especially from soybeans (for example a soybean extract marketed by LSN under the name Eleseryl SH-VEG). 8® or sold by the company SILAB under the trade name Raffermine®); an extract of hydrolysed soy protein such as RIDULISSE® from SILAB; and plant hormones such as giberrellins and cytokinins; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C®.
• plant proteins or polypeptides extracted especially from soybeans (for example a soybean extract marketed by LSN under the name Eleseryl SH-VEG). 8® or sold by the company SILAB under the trade name Raffermine®); an extract of hydrolysed soy protein such as RIDULISSE® from SILAB; and plant hormones such as giberrellins and cytokinins; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the
• an agent promoting proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes will be used.
• the agents stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes include in particular adenosine; phloroglucinol, hydrangea macrophylla leaf extract such as Ichimaru Pharcos Amacha liquid E®, a yeast extract such as CLR Stimoderm®, Larrea divaricata extract such as Sederma Capislow®, mixtures of extracts of papaya, olive leaves and lemon such as Xyléine® from Vincience, hydrangea macrophylla leaf extract such as Amacha liquid E® from Ichimaru Pharcos, retinol and its esters including retinyl palmitate, phloroglucinol, walnut cake extracts marketed by Gattefosse and extracts of solanum tuberosum such as Dermolectin® marketed by Sederma.
• adenosine phloroglucinol
• hydrangea macrophylla leaf extract such as Ichimaru Pharcos Amacha liquid E®
• agents stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes include, for example, minerals such as calcium; sea fennel, a peptide extract of lupine such as the product marketed by Silab under the trade name Structurine®, sodium betasitosteryl sulphate, such as the product marketed by Seporga under the trade name Phytocohesine®, a water-soluble extract of corn such as that marketed by the company SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl®; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobio Logiques under the trademark Filladyn LS 9397®; and lignans such as secoisolariciresinol, retinol and its esters, including retinyl palmitate.
• minerals such as calcium
• sea fennel a peptide extract of lupine
• Structurine® sodium betasitosteryl sulphate
• Seporga
• estrogens such as estradiol and homologues
• cytokines As agents stimulating proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, there may be mentioned estrogens such as estradiol and homologues; cytokines.
• plant proteins or polypeptides extracted especially from soybeans (for example a soybean extract marketed by the company LSN under the name Eleseryl SH-VEG 8® or sold by the company SILAB under the trade name Raffermine®); an extract of hydrolysed soy protein such as RIDULISSE® from SILAB; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C®; adenosine; phloroglucinol, a yeast extract such as Stimoderm® from CLR; a peptide extract of lupine such as that marketed by Silab under the trade name Structurine®; a water-soluble corn extract such as that marketed by the company SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl®; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that
• transglutaminases agents which intervene on the maturation of the horny envelope which deteriorates with age and induces a decrease in activity.
• transglutaminases There may be mentioned, for example, urea and its derivatives and in particular Hydrovance® from National Starch and the other active agents mentioned in L'OREAL application FR2877220 (unpublished).
• - inhibitors of NO-svnthases are examples of urea and its derivatives and in particular Hydrovance® from National Starch and the other active agents mentioned in L'OREAL application FR2877220 (unpublished).
• the agent having a NO synthase inhibitor action may be chosen from OPCs (procyanidolic oligomers); plant extracts of the Vitis vinifera species, sold in particular by the company Euromed under the name Leucocyanidines of extra grapes, or by the company Indena under the name Leucoselect®, or finally by the company Hansen under the name grape marc extract ; plant extracts of the species Olea europaea preferably obtained from olive leaves and in particular marketed by the company VINYALS in the form of dry extract, or by the company Biologia & Technologia under the trade name Eurol® BT; the extracts of a plant of the species Gingko biloba preferably a dry aqueous extract of this plant sold by Beaufour under the trade name Ginkgo biloba standard extract and mixtures thereof.
• OPCs procyanidolic oligomers
• plant extracts of the Vitis vinifera species sold in particular by the company Euromed under the name Leucocyanidines
• PBR Peripheral benzodiazepine receptor
• Mention may be made, for example, of methyl dehydrojasmonate, hecogenin, hedione, O-linoleyl-6D-glucose and mixtures thereof.
• the active agent stimulating the energetic metabolism of the cells can for example be chosen from biotin, an extract of Saccharomyces Cerevisiae such as Phosphovital® from Sederma, the mixture of salts of sodium, manganese, zinc and magnesium of pyrrolidone acid.
• carboxylic acid such as Physiogenyl® from Solabia, a mixture of zinc gluconate, copper and magnesium such as Sepitonic M3® Seppic and mixtures thereof; a beta-glucan derived from Saccharomyces Cerevisiae such as that marketed by Mibelle AG Biochemistry.
• Scalp treatment agents such as Physiogenyl® from Solabia, a mixture of zinc gluconate, copper and magnesium such as Sepitonic M3® Seppic and mixtures thereof; a beta-glucan derived from Saccharomyces Cerevisiae such as that marketed by Mibelle AG Biochemistry. Scalp treatment agents
• the agents for treating the scalp may in particular be anti-dandruff active agents, for example Zinc Pyrithione in aqueous dispersion such as Zinc Omadine Pyrithione by Arch Personal Care, or octopyrox, or ketakonazole, or selenium disulphide. , or the Tea Tree Oil.
• anti-dandruff active agents for example Zinc Pyrithione in aqueous dispersion such as Zinc Omadine Pyrithione by Arch Personal Care, or octopyrox, or ketakonazole, or selenium disulphide. , or the Tea Tree Oil.
• the Applicant has been able to demonstrate that the contacting of a Zinc Pyrithione dispersion on an APTES film is accompanied by an almost immediate flocculation of the Zinc Pyrithione dispersion. Such flocculation improves the deposit of active on the scalp.
• Photoprotective agent and filters
• the process according to the invention is a cosmetic cosmetic process for protection against radiation, in particular against UV radiation, in which compound C is chosen from photoprotective agents, in particular from UV screening agents.
• Organic UV filters are especially chosen from cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; derivatives of ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenylacrylate; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives including those cited in US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); methylene bis (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) derivatives as described in US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP8931 19; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and silicone filters such as those described in particular in the
• Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name "ESCALOL 507" by ISP, Glyceryl PABA,
• Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold under the name "DIPSAL” by SCHER,
• UVINUL D50 Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name "UVINUL D50" by BASF
• Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone sold under the trade name "UVINUL M40" by BASF,
• Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name "UVINUL MS40" by BASF,
• Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid
• Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name "UVINUL DS-49" by BASF,
• Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name "Eusolex 232" by Merck,
• Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul T150 by BASF,
• UVASORB HEB Diethylhexylbutamido triazone sold under the trade name "UVASORB HEB” by SIGMA 3V,
• Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name "PARSOL SLX" by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS
• the preferred organic screening agents are selected from:
• the inorganic UV filters used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average element particle size of less than or equal to 500 nm, more preferably between 5 nm and 500 nm, and even more preferentially between 10 nm. and 100 nm, and preferably between 15 and 50 nm. They may be chosen in particular from oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium or their mixtures.
• Such metal oxide pigments, coated or uncoated are in particular described in patent application EP-A-0 518 773.
• commercial pigments can be mentioned the products sold Kemira, Tayca, Merck and Degussa.
• the metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.
• the coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
• a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexameta
• coated pigments are more particularly coated titanium oxides:
• silica such as the product "SUNVEIL” from the company IKEDA,
• silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F” from the company IKEDA,
• silica and alumina such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA” and “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA” from the company TAYCA, "TIOVEIL” from the company TIOXIDE,
• alumina such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)” and “TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A)” from the company ISHIHARA, and "UVT 14/4" from the company KEMIRA,
• silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100 AQ" from the company Tayca,
• alumina and aluminum laurate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S” from TAYCA,
• iron oxide and iron stearate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F” from the company TAYCA,
• silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS", “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SAS” or “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS” from the company TAYCA,
• silica and treated with a silicone such as the product "UV-TITAN X 195" from KEMIRA,
• triethanolamine such as the product "STT-65-S” from TITAN KOGYO,
• stearic acid such as the product "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C)” from ISHIHARA, sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W” from the company TAYCA.
• Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company Tayca under the trade names "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B” or “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B", by the company DEGUSSA under the name “P 25”, by the WACKHER company under the name “transparent titanium oxide PW”, by MIYOSHI KASEI under the name “UFTR”, by TOMEN under the name "ITS” and by the company TIOXIDE under the name "TIOVEIL AQ”.
• the uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those marketed under the name "Z-cote” by the company Sunsmart;
• coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
• Zinc Oxide CS-5" those marketed under the name "Zinc Oxide CS-5" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane);
• Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN those marketed under the name “Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN” by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate);
• Escalol Z100 those marketed under the name "Escalol Z100” by the company ISP (ZnO treated alumina and dispersed in the mixture methoxycinnamate ethylhexyl / copolymer PVP-hexadecene / methicone);
• Uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name “COLLOIDAL CERIUM OXIDE” by the company RHONE POULENC.
• Uncoated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", “NANOGARD IRON FE 45 BL AQ”, “NANOGARD FE 45R AQ,” NANOGARD WCD 2006 ( FE 45R) ", or by the company MITSUBISHI under the name” TY-220 ".
• coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2008” (FE 45B FN) ",” NANOGARD WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556) ",” NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345 “,” NANOGARD FE 45 BL “, or by the company BASF under the name” OXIDE OF CLEAR IRON ".
• titanium oxides in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the titanium dioxide / silica-coated cerium-aluminum alloy mixture sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL A”.
• TiOIL A titanium dioxide / silica-coated cerium-aluminum alloy mixture sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL A”.
• TiOIL A titanium dioxide / silica-coated cerium-aluminum alloy mixture sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL A”.
• titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product” M 261 "sold by the company KEMIRA or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin such as that the product "M 21 1” sold by KEMIRA.
• titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated are particularly preferred.
• the photoprotective system according to the invention is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight and in particular from 5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. composition.
• Compound C may typically be selected from aldehyde compounds such as aldehyde terpene derivatives or ketones, for example menthone, citronellal or citral.
• Fragrances are compositions containing in particular the raw materials described in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Montclair, NJ, 1969), in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin (Elizabeth, NJ, 1960) and in " It may be natural products (essential oils, absolutes, resinoids, resins, concretes) and / or synthetic products) more particularly comprising at least one aldehyde compound and or a ketone compound, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or cyclic.
• an essential oil is a fragrant product generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined plant raw material, either by steam distillation of water, either by dry distillation or by a suitable mechanical process without heating (cold expression).
• the essential oil is most often separated from the aqueous phase by a physical process not causing a significant change in the composition.
• Essential oils are usually volatile and liquid at room temperature, which differentiates them from so-called fixed oils. They are more or less colored and their density is generally lower than that of water. They have a high refractive index and most deflect polarized light. They are liposoluble and soluble in the usual organic solvents, entrainable with water vapor, very little soluble in water.
• essential oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those obtained from the plants belonging to the following botanical families:
• Apiaceae eg umbelliferae: dill, angelica, coriander, sea fennel, carrot, parsley
• Asteraceae achiliate, mugwort, chamomile, helichryse
• Hypericaceae St. John's wort
• Lamiaceae thyme, oregano, shrimps, savory, basil, marjoram, mint, patchouli, lavender, sage, catnip, rosemary, hyssop, lemon balm, rosemary
• Magnoliaceae magnolia
• Myrtaceae eucalyptus, tea tree, niaouli, cajeput, backousia, clove, myrtle
• Thymelaceae agarwood Tilliacées
• Verbenaceae lantana, verbena
• Zingiberaceae galangal, turmeric, cardamom, ginger
• perfuming substances include: alpha-hexylcinnamaldehyde, 2-methyl-3- (p-tert-butylphenyl) propanal, 2-methyl-3- (p-isopropylphenyl) propanal, 3- (p- tert-butylphenyl) -propanal, 2,4-dimethylcyclohex-3-enyl-carboxaldehyde "4- (4-Hydroxy-4-methylpentyl) -3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4- (4-methyl-3-pentenyl) - 3- cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4-acetoxy-3-pentyl-tetrahydropyran, 3-carboxymethyl-2-pentylcyclopentane, 2-n-4-heptylcyclopentanone, 3-methyl-2-pentyl-2-cyclopentenone, menthone, carvone, tagetone, geranyl
• a mixture of different perfuming substances is used which generate in common a pleasant note for the user.
• the perfumes are preferably chosen so that they produce notes (head, heart and background) in the following families
• the compound A (or the set of compounds A) and the compound C are chosen as a function of the property (or properties) which it is desired to confer on the skin.
• compound A is an alkoxysilane with primary amine capture function and compound C is a molecule carrying a function capable of reacting with a free amine.
• compound A is APTES and compound C is selected from the group consisting of DHA, cinnamaldehyde (or cinammaldehyde), mexoryl SX (INCI: terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid acid), zinc pyrithione, vitamin C, citronellal, citral, nonanal, hydroxycitronellal and a maleic anhydride polymer.
• the compound A is the APTES and the compound C is the DHA.
• the process according to the invention comprises the application on the skin of a compound or set of compounds A which can condense, in particular when it is subjected to an increase in concentration obtained by evaporation of the medium containing it.
• the compound or set of compounds A therefore has reactive functions to allow this condensation, as mentioned above.
• This condensation results in the formation of a deposit on and / or in the skin.
• This deposit is not necessarily continuous but may consist of a multitude of related fields.
• the compound A is chosen so that the material resulting from its condensation has reactive functions called "free capture functions".
• a compound C of cosmetic interest is also applied to the skin.
• Compound C can react with the product of the condensation of A, via the free capture function F A after condensation, and a function Fc present on the compound C.
• the method according to the invention comprises the sequential or concomitant application of compound A (or set of compounds A) and compound C.
• the compound A (or the set of compounds A) is first applied to an area of the skin. Then, after a longer or shorter time which can be between 1 minute and 5 hours, preferably from 1 minute to 1 hour, even more preferably between 2 and 10 minutes, the compound C is applied to the same area of the skin.
• the condensation of the compound A (or the set of compounds A) may have occurred spontaneously, or have been triggered, before the application of the compound C.
• the compound C can then react on the condensate through the free capture function (s) on the condensate.
• Compound C can also react with one or more reactive functions different from the capture functions, in particular with reactive functions that could have participated in the reaction of A with itself but unreacted.
• the compound A is an organosilane carrying a capture function
• the compound C can react on the capture function as well as on uncondensed silanols of the condensate.
• a chemical reaction then occurs, with the formation of covalent bonds between C and one or more reactive functions, more particularly with the capture functions F A present on the condensate of compound A or of the set of compounds A.
• This may have the effect to modify the material on and / or in the skin.
• This reaction can in particular make the condensate insoluble and thus further increase its persistence on and / or in the skin (resistance to water, sweat, sebum, etc.) while maintaining, or even reinforcing, the cosmetic property conferred by the compound C.
• the invention can be implemented with the use of processes accelerating or inhibiting the reactions used in the invention and / or the diffusion of the molecules in the skin, for example heat or cold, microwaves, agents pH or catalysts. It is also possible to act from the surface of the skin on the reaction between compound C and the compound or set of compound A, for example to control or make it faster.
• the compound A is first applied and then the condensation reaction of A is expected to take place. This may be fast or slow, whether or not to involve drying the skin, whether or not to involve activation with, for example, use of a heat source or other energy source.
• the compound C can be allowed to react with the material resulting from the condensation of A. It is also possible to activate the reaction between A and C. After reaction between A and C, rinse or not.
• the compound A is applied in a form or under conditions that do not allow the condensation reaction.
• Compound A is expected to enter.
• the reaction is triggered, either by adding an adjuvant (for example a pH agent) or by changing the conditions, for example by changing the temperature (in particular by increasing it).
• an adjuvant for example a pH agent
• compound C is applied as before.
• the compound A or the set of compounds is applied, and then the compound C is applied under conditions where the capture reaction can not take place. The condensation takes place. Once condensation has begun, the reaction of compound C on the condensate of A.
• the compounds A and C are mixed before application to the skin (extemporaneous mixture). This mixture can be done before application or during application on the skin (mixture directly on the area of the skin to be treated).
• Compound A (or the set of compounds A) and compound C can therefore be applied concomitantly.
• the compounds A and C are chosen so that the presence of C does not prevent the condensation of A; or
• the compounds A and C and / or the conditions of implementation are chosen so that the condensation of A is faster than the reaction of C; or
• the compound A can condense whereas the compound C can not react.
• the reaction of C is triggered by a subsequent action or automatically, for example by changing pH, temperature or by applying a light source.
• the result of the condensation of A on the skin is applied.
• a film of poly APTES can be applied.
• Compound C is then applied.
• compound C is first applied and then compound A is applied.
• compound A or the set of compounds A
• compound C or the compound C into the skin.
• compound A (or set of compounds A) can be injected, then compound C is applied, or compound A (or combination of compounds A) is applied and then compound C is injected, or injects the compounds A (or the set of compounds A) and C.
• the invention serves for example to create a new tattoo mode.
• Compound A is injected.
• a compound C can be applied, by reaction with the capture function, to give a decorative pattern.
• compositions are, for example, in the form of a serum, a lotion, a direct (O / W) emulsion (E / H) or multiple (H / E / H and E / H / E), a stick or a compact product.
• They can use compartmentalization systems (two incompatible solvents, encapsulation). These systems make it possible, for example, to place in the same product compound A, or the set of compounds A, and compound C by limiting their interaction.
• Compound A, or the set of Compound A, and Compound C may be formulated in compositions containing a physiologically acceptable medium. These compositions may be in any of the galenic forms conventionally used in the intended application. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the components and optional additional ingredients and / or active agents, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the compound A (or the set of compounds A) and the Compound C, are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition contemplated.
• compositions used according to the invention are aqueous compositions.
• compositions containing compound C used for dyeing the skin may be prepared according to the techniques well known to those skilled in the art, in particular those intended for the preparation of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions.
• This composition may be in particular in the form of an emulsion, simple or complex (O / W, W / O, O / W / H or W / O / W) such as cream, milk or in the form of a gel or a cream gel, in the form of a lotion, powder, solid stick and possibly be packaged in an aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray.
• an emulsion simple or complex (O / W, W / O, O / W / H or W / O / W)
• cream, milk or in the form of a gel or a cream gel, in the form of a lotion, powder, solid stick and possibly be packaged in an aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray.
• compositions according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.
• the aqueous phase thereof may comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to the known methods (Bangham, Standish and Watkins J. Mol Biol 13, 238 (1965), FR). 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).
• the compound C is DHA.
• DHA DHA
• the latter may be used in free form and / or encapsulated for example in lipid vesicles such as liposomes, in particular described in application WO 97/25970.
• the self-tanning compositions according to the invention may be in the form of creams, milks, gels, gel-creams, oil-in-water emulsions, vesicular dispersions, fluid lotions, in particular vaporizable fluid lotions. or any other form generally used in cosmetics, in particular those that are usually suitable for self-tanning cosmetic compositions.
• compositions in accordance with the present invention may furthermore comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants, chosen in particular from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or nonionic thickeners, softeners, antioxidants, anti-free radical agents, opacifiers, stabilizers , emollients, silicones, ⁇ -hydroxyacids, anti-foam agents, moisturizers, vitamins, insect repellents, substance P antagonists, anti-inflammatories, fragrances, preservatives, surfactants, fillers, polymers, propellants, alkanizing or acidifying agents, and additional dyes (in addition to compound C used according to the invention), or any other ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field , in particular for the manufacture of self-tanning compositions in the form of emulsions.
• conventional cosmetic adjuvants chosen in particular from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or nonionic thickeners, softeners, antioxidants, anti-free radical agents, opacifiers, stabilizer
• compositions containing A may be incorporated into the composition containing A, in the composition containing compound C, or in both compositions.
• the fatty substances may consist of an oil or a wax or mixtures thereof.
• oil is meant a liquid compound at room temperature.
• wax is meant a compound that is solid or substantially solid at room temperature, and whose melting point is generally greater than 35 ° C.
• oils mention may be made of mineral oils (paraffin); vegetable (sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil); synthetic such as perhydrosqualene, alcohols, acids or fatty esters (such as the benzoate of C12-C15 alcohols sold under the trade name Finsolv TN by the company Fmetex, octyl palmitate, isopropyl lanolate triglycerides, including those of capric / caprylic acids, oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated, silicone (cyclomethicone, polydimethylsiloxane or PDMS) or fluorinated esters and fatty ethers, and polyalkylenes and mixtures thereof. carnauba wax, beeswax, hydrogenated castor oil.
• organic solvents mention may be made of lower alcohols and polyols having at most 8 carbon atoms.
• the thickeners may be chosen in particular from crosslinked polyacrylic acids, guar gums and modified or unmodified celluloses such as hydroxypropyl guar gum, methylhydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylmethylcellulose. Additional dyes can be used to modify the color produced by the self-tanning agent.
• These additional dyes may be chosen from synthetic direct dyes or natural dyes.
• dyes may be chosen, for example, from red or orange dyes of the fluoran type, such as those described in the patent application FR2840806.
• red or orange dyes of the fluoran type such as those described in the patent application FR2840806.
• the following dyes may be mentioned:
• CTFA tetrabromofluorescein or eosin known under the name CTFA: CI 45380 or Red 21 Phloxine B known under the CTFA name: CI 45410 or Red 27
• CTFA dibromofluorescein known under the name CTFA: CI 45370 or Orange 5.
• CTFA the sodium salt of diiodofluorescein known under the name CTFA: CI 45425 (Na knows) or Orange 11;
• erythrosine known under the name CTFA: CI 45430 or Acid Red 51.
• These additional dyes may also be chosen from antraquinones, caramel, carmine, charcoal black, azulene blue, methoxalene, trioxalene, guajazulene, chamuzulene, bengal rose, cosine 10B, cyanosine, daphinin.
• additional dyes may also be chosen from indole derivatives such as the monohydroxyindoles as described in the patent FR2651126 (ie: 4-, 5-, 6- or 7-hydroxyindole) or the di-hydroxyindoles as described in the EP-patent.
• B-0425324 ie: 5,6-dihydroxyindole, 2-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 3-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 2,3-dimethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole);
• the additional coloring agents may also be iron oxide pigments with an average particle size of less than 100 nm such as those described in patent application EP 966 953.
• compositions containing a photoprotective agent (or filter), care composition containing a photoprotective agent (or filter), care composition
• compositions comprising a compound C used for photoprotection or skin care may be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art. It should be noted that the galenic and active forms described below can be used for the formulation of compound A, whatever the cosmetic application sought.
• the compositions used according to the invention may comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants, chosen especially from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or nonionic thickeners, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, silicone, antifoaming agents, perfumes, preservatives, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, active ingredients, fillers, polymers, propellants, alkalinizing or acidifying agents or any another ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field.
• These cosmetic adjuvants may be incorporated into the composition containing A, in the composition containing compound C, or in both compositions.
• the fatty substances may consist of an oil or a wax other than the apolar waxes as defined above or mixtures thereof.
• oil is meant a liquid compound at room temperature.
• wax is meant a compound that is solid or substantially solid at room temperature and whose melting point is generally greater than 35 ° C.
• oils mention may be made of mineral oils (paraffin); vegetable (sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil); synthetic such as perhydrosqualene, alcohols, fatty amides (such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name "Eldew SL-205" by the company Ajinomoto), fatty acids or esters such as benzoate C alcohols 12 -Ci5 sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN" or “Witconol TN” by the company WITCO, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate as the commercial product sold under the name X-TEND 226® by the company ISP, the palmitate of octyl, isopropyl lanolate, triglycerides, including those of capric / caprylic acids, dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name "Cetiol CC" by Cognis), oxyethylenated or
• waxy compounds mention may be made of carnauba wax, beeswax, hydrogenated castor oil, polyethylene waxes and polymethylene waxes, such as that sold under the name Cirebelle 303 by the company SASOL.
• organic solvents mention may be made of lower alcohols and polyols. These can be selected from glycols and glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.
• hydrophilic thickeners mention may be made of carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and Pemulen (acrylate / Cio-C3o-alkylacrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for example crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / Cn-n isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic ; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the trade name "Hostacerin AMPS" (name CTFA: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate or SIMUL
• lipophilic thickeners of synthetic polymers such as the poly C10-C30 alkyl acrylates sold under the name "IPA INTELIMER 13-1" and "INTELIMER IPA 13-6” by the company Landec, or modified clays such as hectorite and its derivatives, such as the products marketed under the Bentone name.
• compositions used for the photoprotection or care of the skin according to the invention may be prepared according to the techniques well known to those skilled in the art. .
• They may be in particular in the form of an emulsion, simple or complex (O / W, W / O, O / W / H or W / O / W) such as cream, milk or cream gel ; in the form of an aqueous gel; in the form of a lotion. They may optionally be packaged in aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray.
• compositions used according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.
• the emulsification methods that can be used are of the pale type or helix, rotor-stator and HHP type. It is also possible, by HHP (between 50 and 800b), to obtain stable dispersions with drop sizes of up to 100 nm.
• the emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture.
• the emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).
• emulsifying surfactants that may be used for the preparation of W / O emulsions, mention may be made, for example, of alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol or of sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C” by the company Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid "by Dow Corning; cetyl dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R by the company Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09 by the company Goldsch
• co-emulsifiers may also be added, which advantageously may be selected from the group consisting of alkylated polyol esters.
• Polyol alkyl esters that may especially be mentioned include polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxy stearate such as the product sold under the name Arlacel PI 35 by the company ICI.
• glycerol and / or sorbitan esters examples include polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.
• emulsifiers of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) such as PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate sold, for example, by the company ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, in particular alkylpolyglucosides (APG) such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside sold, for example, by Henkel under the respective names
• APG alkylpolyglucosides
• the mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described, for example, in WO- A-92/06778.
• the aqueous phase thereof may comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known methods (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol Biol 13, 238 (1965)). FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).
• the cosmetic compositions used according to the invention may for example be used as a skincare and / or sun protection product for the face and / or the body of liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as milks, creams, or more. less creamy, gel-creams, pasta. They may optionally be packaged in aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray.
• compositions according to the invention in the form of vaporizable fluid lotions according to the invention are applied to the skin or the scalp in the form of fine particles by means of pressurizing devices.
• the devices according to the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers", aerosol containers comprising a propellant and aerosol pumps using compressed air as a propellant. These are described in US Pat. Nos. 4,077,441 and 4,850,517 (which forms an integral part of the content of the description).
• compositions in accordance with the invention generally contain conventional propellants such as, for example, hydrofluorinated compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane and trichlorofluoromethane. They are present preferably in amounts ranging from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• propellants such as, for example, hydrofluorinated compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane and trichlorofluoromethane. They are present preferably in amounts ranging from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the compositions used according to the invention may also comprise, in addition, additional cosmetic and dermatological active ingredients.
• agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts;
• Moisturizing agents such as polyols such as glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol.
• composition may also comprise at least one ingredient such as blooming fillers or agents promoting the natural coloration of the skin, intended to complete the biological effect of these active ingredients or provide an immediate visual anti-aging effect.
• ingredient such as blooming fillers or agents promoting the natural coloration of the skin, intended to complete the biological effect of these active ingredients or provide an immediate visual anti-aging effect.
• At least one active agent selected from desquamating agents, sebo-regulating or anti-seborrhoeic agents, astringent agents.
• compositions used according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional ingredient intended to complete the biological effect of these active ingredients or to provide an immediate visual effect; mention may in particular be made of mattifying agents, effect fillers bloomer, fluorescers, agents promoting the naturally rosy coloration of the skin and abrasive or exfoliating fillers.
• compositions of the invention To complement and / or optimize the effects conferred by the cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents mentioned above on keratin materials, it may be advantageous to incorporate other additional ingredients in the compositions of the invention.
• these additional ingredients may confer an immediate visual effect that will be relayed by the biological effect of the assets mentioned above. They can also, through a mechanical action (ex: abrasvies), amplify the effect of the biological assets mentioned above.
• Matifying agent means agents intended to make the skin visibly duller and less glossy.
• the matting effect of the agent and / or of the composition containing it can in particular be evaluated using a gonioreflectometer, by measuring the ratio R between the specular reflection and the diffuse reflection.
• a value of R less than or equal to 2 generally reflects a matting effect.
• the matting agent may especially be chosen from a rice starch or a corn starch INCI name: ZEA MAYS (CORN) STARCH as in particular the product sold under the trade name "FARMAL CS 3650 PLUS 036500" by National Starch, kaolinite talc, pumpkin seed extract, cellulose microbeads, vegetable fibers, synthetic fibers, in particular polyamides, expanded acrylic copolymer microspheres, polyamide powders, silica powders, polytetrafluoroethylene powders , silicone resin powders, acrylic polymer powders, wax powders, polyethylene powders, elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders mixed amorphous silicate powders, silicate particles, and especially mixed silicate particles, and mixtures thereof.
• mattifying agents that may be mentioned include:
• starch from rice or maize, in particular starch octenyl succinate aluminum sold under the name Dry Flo® by the company National Starch,
• - fibers such as silk, cotton, wool, flax, cellulose fibers extracted in particular from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (Nylon®), modified cellulose, poly-p-phenylene terephtamide, acrylic, polyolefin, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, Teflon®, insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan , polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, synthetic resorbable fibers, and mixtures thereof described in patent application EP 1 151 742;
• microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers such as those sold by Expancel under the names Expancel 551®,
• Polyamide powders such as, for example, Arkema's Orgasol type nylon 12 particles having a mean size of 10 microns and a refractive index 1, 54; silica powders, for example Silica powders; SB 150 Miyoshi beads, 5 microns in average size and refractive index 1.45,
• polytetrafluoroethylene powders such as Clariant ceridust 9205F PTFE with an average size of 8 microns and a refractive index of 1.36,
• silicone resin powders such as GE Silicone Silicon resin Tospearl 145A having a mean size of 4.5 microns and a refractive index of 1.41,
• methyl poly (meth) acrylate such as PMMA Jurymer MBI particles of Nihon Junyoki with an average size of 8 microns and a refractive index of 1.49, or Micropearl M100® and F80 particles.
• ED® from the company Matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku, wax powders such as paraffin wax microease particles 1 14S of micropowders with a mean size of 7 microns and a refractive index of 1.54
• polyethylene powders especially comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, and in particular consisting of ethylene / acrylic acid copolymers such as the Sumitomo Flobeads EA 209 particles (of average size 10 microns and refractive index 1.48). )
• elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin in particular with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,538,793.
• Such elastomer powders are sold under the names "KSP-100”, “KSP” and “KSP-100". "-101”, “SP-102”, “KSP-103”, “SP-104", "KSP-105" by SHIN ETSU, and
• talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders such as those sold under the name Coverleaf® AR-80 by the company Catalyst & chemicals,
• silica powders such as, for example, the porous silica microspheres sold under the name "Silica Beads SB-700” marketed by the company MYOSHI, the "SU SPHEPvE®”, “SUNSPHERE® H33”, “SUNSPHERE® H53” marketed by ASAHI GLASS, amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane sold under the name "SA Sunsphere® H-33” and "SA Sunsphere® H-53” marketed by ASAHI GLASS;
• amorphous mixed silicate powders in particular aluminum and magnesium, such as, for example, that marketed under the name “NEUSILIN UFL2" by the company Sumitomo.
• polyamide (nylon®) powders such as for example "PORGASOL® 4000” marketed by Arkema, and
• acrylic polymer powders in particular polymethyl methacrylate, for example "COVABEAD® LH85” marketed by WACKHERR; polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, such as, for example, “DOW CORNING 5640 MICROSPONGE® SKIN OIL ADSORBER” marketed by Dow Corning, or “Ganzpearl® GMP-0820” marketed by Ganz Chemical; of allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, such as for example "POLY-PORE® L200" or “POLY-PORE® E200” marketed by AMCOL; ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer, such as, for example, "POLYTRAP® 6603" marketed from Dow Corning;
• silicate particles such as alumina silicate
• mixed silicate particles such as:
• magnesium aluminum silicate particles such as saponite or magnesium aluminum silicate, hydrated with a sodium sulphate marketed under the trade name Sumecton® by the company Kunimine;
• magnesium silicate complex hydroxyethylcellulose, black cumin oil, pumpkin oil and phospholipids or Matipure® by Lucas Meyer, and
• an extract of pumpkin seeds a rice or maize starch, kaolinite, silicas, talc, polyamide powders, polyethylene powders and copolymer powders. acrylics, microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers, silicone resin microbeads, mixed silicate particles and mixtures thereof.
• These fillers can be any material that can modify wrinkles by its intrinsic physical properties and mask them. These fillers can in particular modify the wrinkles by a tightening effect, a camouflage effect, or a blurring effect.
• porous silica microparticles for example Myochi's Silica Beads® SB 150 and SB 700 with a mean size of 5 ⁇ and Asahi Glass's SUNSPHERES® H series, such as H33 and H51 with sizes of 3.5 and 5 ⁇ respectively; .
• silicone resins such as NLK 500®, NLK 506® and NLK 510® from Takemoto Oil and Fat, in particular described in EP-A-1579849, silicone resin powders, for example SILICON Resin Tospearl® 145 A DE GE Silicone medium size 4.5 ⁇ .
• acrylic copolymers in particular of methyl poly (meth) acrylate, for instance PMMA Jurimer MBI® particles of Nihon Junyoki with an average size of 8 ⁇ m, and the hollow spheres of PMMA sold under the name COVABEAD® LH 85 by the company Wackherr and the expanded vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres sold under the name Expancel®.
• wax powders such as paraffin wax micro loase® 114S particles of micropowders of average size of 7 ⁇ m.
• powders of polyethylenes in particular comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer for example the FLOBEADS® EA 209 E from Sumimoto with an average size of ⁇ .
• crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin in particular silsesquioxane under the name KSP 100®,
• talc / dioxide or titanium / alumina / silica composite powders for example the Coverleaf AR 80® from Catalyst & Chemical.
• talc talc
• mica kaolin
• lauryl glycine starch powders crosslinked with octyanyl succinate anhydride, boron nitride, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrocarbonate carbonate , barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide and microcapsules of glass or ceramics.
• synthetic or natural hydrophilic or hydrophobic fibers mineral or organic, such as silk, cotton, wool, flax, cellulose fibers extracted especially from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (Nylon®), modified cellulose, poly-p-phenylene terephtamide, acrylic, polyolefin, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®), insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan, polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, synthetic resorbable fibers, and mixtures thereof described in patent application EP 1 151 742.
• spherical elastomeric cross-linked silicones such as Trefil E-505C® or E-506 C® from Dow Corning.
• abrasive fillers which, by a mechanical effect, provide a smoothing of the cutaneous microrelief, such as abrasive silica, for example Abrasif SP® from Semanez or walnut or shell powders (apricot, walnut, for example from Cosmetochem).
• the fillers having an effect on the signs of aging are chosen in particular from porous silica microparticles, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, silicone resin powders, acrylic copolymer powders, polyethylene powders and organopolysiloxane powders.
• the charge can be a "soft focus" charge.
• soft-focus load we mean a load which in addition gives transparency to the complexion and a fuzzy effect.
• the "soft-focus” charges have an average particle size of less than or equal to 15 microns. These particles can be of any shape and in particular be spherical or nonspherical. More preferably, these fillers are nonspherical.
• the "soft-focus” fillers may be chosen from silica and silicate powders, in particular alumina powders, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powders, talc, silica / TiO 2 or silica / zinc oxide composites, and powders. polyethylene, starch powders, polyamide powders, styrene / acrylic copolymer powders, silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.
• silica and silicate powders in particular alumina powders, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powders, talc, silica / TiO 2 or silica / zinc oxide composites, and powders.
• PMMA polymethyl methacrylate
• talc silica / TiO 2 or silica / zinc oxide composites
• powders polyethylene, starch powders, polyamide powders, styrene / acrylic copolymer powders, silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.
• talc with a mean size of less than or equal to 3 microns, for example talc with a mean size of 1.8 microns, and in particular that sold under the trade name Talc P3® by the company Nippon Talc.
• Nylon® 12 powder in particular that sold under the name Orgasol 2002 Extra D Nat Cos® by the company Atochem
• silica particles treated on the surface with a mineral wax 1 to 2% such as those sold by the company Degussa
• amorphous silica microspheres such as those sold under the name Sunsphere, for example reference H-53® by Asahi Glass
• silica micro-beads such as those sold under the name SB-700® or SB-150® by Miyoshi
• concentration of these fillers having an effect on the signs of aging in the compositions according to the invention may be between 0.1 and 40%, or even between 0.1 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• Agents promoting the naturally rosy coloration of the skin may be between 0.1 and 40%, or even between 0.1 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• compositions used according to the invention may also comprise an agent promoting the naturally rosy coloration of the skin.
• an agent promoting the naturally rosy coloration of the skin we can mention in particular:
• a self-tanning agent that is to say an agent which, applied on the skin, in particular on the face, makes it possible to obtain a tanning effect of a more or less similar appearance to that which may result from an exposure prolonged in the sun (natural tanning) or under a UV lamp;
• an additional coloring agent that is to say any compound having a particular affinity for the skin enabling it to confer on the latter a durable, non-covering coloration (ie not having a tendency to opacify the skin) and which is not removable with water or with the aid of a solvent, and which resists both rubbing and washing with a solution containing surfactants.
• Such durable coloration is therefore distinguished from the superficial and momentary coloration provided for example by a makeup pigment;
• Examples of self-tanning agents include:
• DHA dihydoxyacetone
• alkaline and / or alkaline earth hydrogenocarbonates are examples of alkaline and / or alkaline earth hydrogenocarbonates.
• the self-tanning agents are generally chosen from mono or polycarbonyl compounds such as, for example, isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose, pyrazolin-4,5 derivatives. diones as described in patent application FR 2 466 492 and WO 97/35842, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-ones derivatives as described in patent application EP 903 342. DHA will preferably be used.
• DHA may be used in free form and / or encapsulated for example in lipid vesicles such as liposomes, in particular described in application WO 97/25970.
• the self-tanning agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, and preferably in an amount of between 0.1 and 10% of the total weight of the composition.
• These dyes may be chosen from synthetic direct dyes or natural dyes.
• dyes may be chosen, for example, from red or orange dyes of the fluoran type such as those described in the patent application FR2840806.
• red or orange dyes of the fluoran type such as those described in the patent application FR2840806.
• the following dyes may be mentioned:
• CTFA tetrabromofluorescein or eosin known under the name CTFA: CI 45380 or Red 21
• CTFA dibromofluorescein known under the name CTFA: CI 45370 or Orange 5.
• CTFA the sodium salt of diiodofluorescein known under the name CTFA: CI 45425 (Na knows) or Orange 11;
• erythrosine known under the name CTFA: CI 45430 or Acid Red 51.
• dyes may also be chosen from antraquinones, caramel, carmine, charcoal black, azulene blue, methoxalene, trioxalene, guajazulene, chamuzulene, bengal rose, cosine 10B, cyanosine, daphinin.
• dyes may also be chosen from indole derivatives such as the monohydroxyindoles as described in the patent FR2651126 (ie: 4-, 5-, 6- or 7-hydroxyindole) or the di-hydroxyindoles as described in the EP-B patent.
• exfoliating agents that may be used in rinsed compositions according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of exfoliant or scrubbing particles of mineral, vegetable or organic origin.
• exfoliant or scrubbing particles of mineral, vegetable or organic origin.
• beads or polyethylene powder, nylon powder, polyvinyl chloride powder, pumice, ground apricot kernels or nut shells can be used. sawdust, glass beads, alumina, and mixtures thereof.
• Exfogreen® from Solabia (bamboo extract), strawberry akenes (Greentech strawberry Akancies), peach kernel powder, apricot kernel powder, and finally the field of vegetable powders with abrasive effect include the cranberry powder.
• peach kernel powder As abrasive fillers or preferred exfoliation agents according to the invention, mention may be made of peach kernel powder, apricot kernel powder, cranberry kernel powder, strawberry achene extracts, bamboo extracts.
• the invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly, or kit, comprising at least:
• a first composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one compound or set of compound A as described above;
• composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one compound C as described above.
• the assembly according to the invention can thus be composed of a two-compartment system. It may also correspond to a set comprising the first composition in a first galenic form (for example a cream containing the compound or set of compounds A) is the second composition in a second galenic form (for example a roll-on system, a spray, ...)
• a cosmetic assembly may be useful when components of the first and second compositions exhibit instability (whether physical or chemical) when they are mixed, or when it is desired to avoid that the compound or set of compounds A and the compound C can act between them before application to the skin.
• the stability of the DHA can be substantially improved, for example.
• the cosmetic assembly comprises:
• a first composition comprising a compound A or a set of compounds A as defined above, the function F A being a primary amine function (the compound A being more particularly the APTES); and
• a second composition comprising DHA.
• a poly APTES film is formed in a PETRI dish by depositing therein about 6 mL of the formulation described in Table 1 below. After drying and forming a film in the Petri dish, a few drops of the formulation of Table 2 are then deposited.
• Example 2 Formulations Comprising Free Amino Alkoxysilane (A) and DHA (C) - Demonstration of Improved Color Enhancement and Color Intensity Table 1: Formulation containing a free amino-functional alkoxysilane
• the inventors are applied side by side (in the form of spots) on the arm of a user of the formulations according to the following modalities:
• the desired properties of persistence and resistance to the cosmetic effect can be improved by the insolubilization of the deposit obtained by applying a molecule carrying a function capable of reacting with a free amine on the Poly APTES film obtained from an alkoxysilane having a primary amine function.
• Example 4 Obtaining a fluorescent effect
• the APTES formulation of Table 1 is applied to a portion of the skin. A solution of 1% hydroxycitronellal in ethanol is then applied. Surprisingly, the treated area has fluorescence under UV. The same effect was observed after application of nonalal.
• Example 6 Formulations Containing an Alkoxysilane (A) and a UV-screening Compound (C)
• the formulation containing a free amino-functional alkoxysilane is that of Table 1 above.
• Example 7 Formulations Containing an Alkoxysilane (A) and an Anti-Dandruff Active (C)
• the formulation containing a free amino function alkoxysilane is that of Table 1 above.
• Example 8 Formulations Containing an Alkoxysilane (A) and a Skin Care Active (c)
• the formulation containing an alkoxysilane having a free amino function is that of Table 1 above.
• Table 6 Formulation Containing Vitamin C
• Example 9 Formulations Containing an Alkoxysilane (A) and a Conditioning Polymer (C)
• the formulation containing a free amino-functional alkoxysilane is that of Table 1 above.

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• 2010
  • 2010-12-15 WO PCT/FR2010/052742 patent/WO2011073576A2/fr active Application Filing
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