Patricia SanMiguel
Universidad de Navarra, School of Communication, Faculty Member
- Universidad de Navarra, ISEM Fashion Business School, Faculty Memberadd
- Associate Professor of Digital Marketing, Influence Marketing and Fashion Consumer Behavior at the School of Communic... moreAssociate Professor of Digital Marketing, Influence Marketing and Fashion Consumer Behavior at the School of Communication at the University of Navarra and ISEM Fashion Business School. Patricia SanMiguel holds an Advertising and Public Relations Bachelor's Degree at Complutense of Madrid University (2011), and a PhD in Applied Creativity at University of Navarra (Extraordinary PhD Award, 2018). She also holds an Executive Fashion MBA at ISEM. San Miguel is Visiting Scholar at the Università della Svizzera Italiana and Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore, Visiting Research at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and at the University of Florence-Department of Economics and Management. San Miguel has been Principal Researcher in two European Projects regarding Social Media and Influencer Marketing funded by the European Commission. In addition, she collaborates as a digital marketing advisor for fashion brands and entrepreneurs.edit
Since the early developments of Web3 and the Metaverse, the fashion industry has been actively launching initiatives, especially through gamification, Non-Fungible Tokens (NFTs) and shopping experience. Up until now the academic... more
Since the early developments of Web3 and the Metaverse, the
fashion industry has been actively launching initiatives, especially
through gamification, Non-Fungible Tokens (NFTs) and shopping
experience. Up until now the academic literature relating to the
implications for fashion brands in a digital fashion marketing context
has been scarce. Through a systematic content analysis of 235
articles published between 2021 and 2023 in Vogue Business and
The Business of Fashion, this research has focused on the main
brands and uses of the Metaverse, as well as their real applications.
Through a thorough analysis, this research reveals that the most
active fashion sub-industries on the Metaverse are those relating to
luxury, sportswear and beauty, with Nike, Gucci and Hermès emerging
as the leading brands. Furthermore, when it comes to fashion
and the Metaverse, the most popular topics relate to NFTs and
gamification, to the point that they are used as synonyms of the
Metaverse. This practice creates confusion, not only in terms of the
meaning of the term “metaverse”, but also regarding its implications
for fashion brands. Finally, the study identifies issues that
demand further analysis in subsequent academic research regarding
the notion of falsity and the Metaverse.
fashion industry has been actively launching initiatives, especially
through gamification, Non-Fungible Tokens (NFTs) and shopping
experience. Up until now the academic literature relating to the
implications for fashion brands in a digital fashion marketing context
has been scarce. Through a systematic content analysis of 235
articles published between 2021 and 2023 in Vogue Business and
The Business of Fashion, this research has focused on the main
brands and uses of the Metaverse, as well as their real applications.
Through a thorough analysis, this research reveals that the most
active fashion sub-industries on the Metaverse are those relating to
luxury, sportswear and beauty, with Nike, Gucci and Hermès emerging
as the leading brands. Furthermore, when it comes to fashion
and the Metaverse, the most popular topics relate to NFTs and
gamification, to the point that they are used as synonyms of the
Metaverse. This practice creates confusion, not only in terms of the
meaning of the term “metaverse”, but also regarding its implications
for fashion brands. Finally, the study identifies issues that
demand further analysis in subsequent academic research regarding
the notion of falsity and the Metaverse.
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Research regarding influencer marketing (IM) highlights the influencer's benefits for brands in terms of visibility, engagement and sales. Studies in the field of psychology and health indicate certain negative forms of behavior... more
Research regarding influencer marketing (IM) highlights the influencer's benefits for brands in terms of visibility, engagement and sales. Studies in the field of psychology and health indicate certain negative forms of behavior demonstrated by influencers that affect their audiences, especially children. However, the influencer advertising sector is complex and requires a deeper understanding of the environment and contexts in which influencers work and their consequent interactions. This paper aims to delve deeper into the IM business by highlighting all the players involved and assessing their influence capacity. The study presents an exploratory analysis of the players involved in the IM industry, based on a qualitative methodology featuring 42 in-depth interviews and five focus groups. The results enable us to progress in terms of both IM research and practice, offering a series of deeper insights regarding its potential negative effects, not only with regard to audiences, but also with regard to the entire influencer environment.
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Internet es un entorno sin fronteras espacio-temporales, donde las marcas de moda se conectan con sus consumidores, especialmente a través de las redes sociales. Instagram, TikTok o YouTube se han convertido en los canales preferentes... more
Internet es un entorno sin fronteras espacio-temporales, donde las marcas de moda se conectan con sus consumidores, especialmente a través de las redes sociales. Instagram, TikTok o YouTube se han convertido en los canales preferentes para establecer una comunicación personal y bidireccional con los seguidores y al mismo tiempo en un canal de comunicación comercial. Una de las estrategias de marketing en redes sociales que más están utilizando las marcas de moda es el marketing de influencia. En los últimos años los estudios académicos en relación con el marketing de influencia han aumentado notablemente. Sin embargo, la literatura muestra que todavía son muchos los gaps existentes en los que es conveniente desarrollar estudios. En este sentido, los profesionales del marketing se encuentran con frecuencia ante la disyuntiva de realizar campañas con influencers globales o por el contrario localizar sus estrategias utilizando influencers de los países, ciudades o área donde se va desa...
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Los estudios sobre el liderazgo de opinión comenzaron con las aportaciones de Paul Lazarsfeld y sus compañeros de la Escuela de Columbia (Katz & Lazarsfeld, 1955), cuando Lazarsfeld desarrolló su teoría de “the-two-step-flow of... more
Los estudios sobre el liderazgo de opinión comenzaron con las aportaciones de Paul Lazarsfeld y sus compañeros de la Escuela de Columbia (Katz & Lazarsfeld, 1955), cuando Lazarsfeld desarrolló su teoría de “the-two-step-flow of communication” que incidía en los efectos limitados de los medios. Además, Lazarsfeld indicó que la moda, por su dinamismo, era un campo propicio para el análisis del papel de la comunicación personal y del liderazgo de opinión. El presente artículo analiza los estudios en este campo entre los años 1950 y 2000; una evolución en la que se establecen las bases sobre las características de los líderes de opinión en moda como medidores de la cultura y valores sociales, fuentes de información, fuentes de consejo, modelos de comportamiento en moda, fuentes de seguridad para la aceptación social. La revisión cronológica de los estudios permite un análisis en profundidad en el que aparecen las claves sobre el papel de la comunicación personal, cuestión relevante en l...
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Internet transforma el modo en que nos comunicamos, relacionamos y compramos. Gracias a la revolucion tecnologica, los individuos pueden acceder a todo tipo de informacion, comunicarse de forma directa con cientos de usuarios, compartir... more
Internet transforma el modo en que nos comunicamos, relacionamos y compramos. Gracias a la revolucion tecnologica, los individuos pueden acceder a todo tipo de informacion, comunicarse de forma directa con cientos de usuarios, compartir experiencias y opiniones. Como consecuencia, el entorno online propicia un incremento exponencial de lideres de opinion en las redes sociales: son los denominados influencers. Los influencers muestran en las redes vidas que todo joven millennial pueden envidiar y desear: productos gratuitos, eventos, viajes, colaboraciones con marcas, etc. Esta realidad aumenta en volumen estrategias de influencer marketing en la red, colaboraciones entre marcas y lideres de opinion digitales, dando lugar al desarrollo de una nueva profesion. Hoy en dia la mayoria de los influencer son jovenes nativos digitales, que suenan con ganarse la vida trabajando en campos que les motiven y diviertan. El presente capitulo aborda los cambios de la revolucion digital, la evoluci...
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This document, designed and written during the conference FACTUM19, has two main goals: to help consolidate Fashion Communication as an academic field, and to support an international and interdisciplinary network of scholars in the area,... more
This document, designed and written during the conference FACTUM19, has two main goals: to help consolidate Fashion Communication as an academic field, and to support an international and interdisciplinary network of scholars in the area, whose collaboration may lead to a larger body of research and, in turn, to further academic recognition. To do so, it outlines main research topics, approaches and challenges, as well as related industry issues and learning dimensions.
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The aim of this paper is to identify influencers and the way they affect the behavior of millennial buyers in the process of consuming fashion goods. The paper examines the literature on opinion leaders, ranging from the origins of the... more
The aim of this paper is to identify influencers and the way they affect the behavior of millennial buyers in the process of consuming fashion goods. The paper examines the literature on opinion leaders, ranging from the origins of the concept to its developments within the context of the Internet. The shift from influential to influencer and the different types of influencer are examined and certain hypotheses regarding the role of influencers (including all the influential players) regarding fashion-buying millennials are presented. The paper presents the results of qualitative and quantitative empirical research based on focus groups and in-depth interviews with 22 university students. Findings from this research and their implications regarding the different stages of the millennial buying process are discussed.
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Abstract The growing interest in fashion bloggers within the field of fashion is generating different kinds of research under the headings of communication and consumer behavior. However, one of the key issues within fashion, such as... more
Abstract The growing interest in fashion bloggers within the field of fashion is generating different kinds of research under the headings of communication and consumer behavior. However, one of the key issues within fashion, such as influence, has not been researched in any great depth so far. This paper seeks to shed some light on this matter and poses the question as to just how many fashion bloggers can really be considered influential. Through an analysis of the characteristics of what has been considered “influential” within the field of research, and based on a research project that focuses on Spanish bloggers, we can discover which bloggers are influential, what the attributes are that define them, and how we can locate them.
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More than a decade after their first appearance, fashion blogs have established themselves as a constant feature of the fashion scene. However, in many respects they have not yet achieved a definitive status within the field of fashion... more
More than a decade after their first appearance, fashion blogs have established themselves as a constant feature of the fashion scene. However, in many respects they have not yet achieved a definitive status within the field of fashion media, at least in terms of legitimization. This chapter addresses the following question: is the golden era of fashion blogging over? It does so by comparing two national fields of fashion blogging, those of Italy and Spain. From a theoretical point of view bloggers are investigated as influentials and their work is considered as constitutive of the contemporary field of the fashion media, drawing on a Bourdieusian perspective. The arguments formulated in this chapter are based on quantitative and qualitative research carried out in Italy and Spain. Through desk analysis we investigated the features of the bloggers with the highest levels of visibility and their activity in the social media. A sample of 62 bloggers were interviewed with qualitative techniques to discuss the experience of common fashion bloggers. We conclude that blogs have gained a more institutionalized and normalized role in the field of fashion. Despite the presence of many aspirational bloggers, the field has left its ‘naïve’ stage and has become more professionalized. Players such as companies and journalists, initially not always particularly enthusiastic about bloggers (especially in Italy), recognize and legitimize the role of bloggers as fashion influentials by employing them as marketing tools and contributors to magazines. The role of semi-professionalised bloggers is highlighted. Together with celebrities and common bloggers, they are part of the tripartite hierarchy that characterises the field of fashion blogging.
Research Interests: History, Fashion Theory, Digital Media, Celebrity Culture, Social Media, and 14 morePierre Bourdieu, Spain, Fashion Media, Sociology of Fashion, Fashion Blogs, Celebrity Studies, Influentials, Italian fashion theory, Fashion Bloggers, Web-celebrities, Digital influencers, Fashion influencers, Web influencers, and Field of fashion media
La revolucion digital ha transformado el modo en que los/as millennials consumen informacion sobre moda. La aparicion de nuevas plataformas digitales (blogs, redes sociales, revistas online, foros…) amplia las posibilidades de acceso a... more
La revolucion digital ha transformado el modo en que los/as millennials consumen informacion sobre moda. La aparicion de nuevas plataformas digitales (blogs, redes sociales, revistas online, foros…) amplia las posibilidades de acceso a diferentes fuentes de informacion. Ante esta nueva realidad, profesionales y academicos/as se plantean multiples cuestiones: ?siguen leyendo revistas de moda los/as millennials o solo ven las paginas web de las revistas?, ?interesan los libros de moda?, ?continuan teniendo lectores/as los blogs o solo se consume informacion en redes sociales?, ?quienes son mas activos/as la hora de obtener de informacion sobre moda? Este articulo pretende responder a estas preguntas gracias a los datos obtenidos mediante la combinacion de tres tecnicas de investigacion: dos grupos de discusion, 22 entrevistas en profundidad y una encuesta a 1176 millennials. Los resultados muestran que los/as millennials continuan utilizando multiples fuentes de informacion en moda. L...
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Purpose The aim of this study is to analyze fashion bloggers, in order to discover their characteristics and their influence. Thanks to the Internet, they are able to have a global presence, to reach a massive market and they have become... more
Purpose The aim of this study is to analyze fashion bloggers, in order to discover their characteristics and their influence. Thanks to the Internet, they are able to have a global presence, to reach a massive market and they have become a new communication channel for brands. Fashion bloggers are a new phenomenon with a higher perspective to represent the new Influentials. Design/methodology/approach – First an online questionnaire was designed focused on the three key attributes of an influential, a sample of 253 bloggers was obtained. Secondly, we studied 40 most important Spanish blogs, quantitative study was conducted by looking at one of the most important parameters for the influence that is interaction. Findings – Findings show de profile of influential fashion blogger: personal characteristics, knowledge criteria and social factors. It also shows that they are very little blogs that really can have a great influence or at least a daily influence. Research limitation/implica...
This paper analyzes how consumers are interacting with brands in the new digital context. The question research is if there is any homogenization of user behavior when dealing with brands in the e-commerce or not. The paper study Digital... more
This paper analyzes how consumers are interacting with brands in the new digital context. The question research is if there is any homogenization of user behavior when dealing with brands in the e-commerce or not. The paper study Digital User Behavior in Fashion e-commerce, for this purpose, user behavior of Fast Fashion (FF) and Luxury-Premium (LP) e-commerce webpages are investigated. Therefore, a group of 20 fashion brands was selected: 10 of these brands belonged to the FF category and the other 10 to the LP category. User digital behavior is analyzed using six Key Digital Behavior Variables (KDBV), all performative variables that represent how consumers interact with brands through their web pages, based on web user session analysis. Studying digital user behavior enables us to get to know fashion brand consumers and users better. As we have observed, there are increasingly few differences between the behavior of FF web site users and LP web site users.
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<jats:p>La realidad del mercado de la moda actual demanda nuevas formas de comunicación. A través del caso de la marca de relojes millennial, Daniel Wellington, la investigación tiene como objetivo principal analizar como el modelo... more
<jats:p>La realidad del mercado de la moda actual demanda nuevas formas de comunicación. A través del caso de la marca de relojes millennial, Daniel Wellington, la investigación tiene como objetivo principal analizar como el modelo 4E puede ayudar a impulsar el influencer marketing desde un enfoque coherente de marca y storytelling. A partir de un análisis de contenido cuantitativo y cualitativo se mide la actividad en red tanto de la propia marca como la de los usuarios, la interacción, y la coherencia de marca a través del relato sobre una muestra de 200 publicaciones relativas al año 2019 y 2020. Los resultados confirman que el éxito de la marca radica en el poder de los micro-influencers y que este tipo de comunicación, que construye marca, responde a la estrategia del modelo 4E.</jats:p>
It has been more than five decades since Rogers (1962) analyzed the adoption of innovations processes and the adopters profiles. Since then, there have been many studies about adoption of fashion innovations in order to understand who the... more
It has been more than five decades since Rogers (1962) analyzed the adoption of innovations processes and the adopters profiles. Since then, there have been many studies about adoption of fashion innovations in order to understand who the innovators are and how new trends and products are spread in society. Recently, Workman & Seung-Hee (2017) analyzed in depth the studies in this area, highlighting theories, models and research methods. In addition, they proposed and tested a new model of fashion adoption. Although it has been a field studied over time and currently, these investigations don’t pay attention to the Digital Age, to the new Digital Native Consumers and how are their social relations and online buying process. How does internet impact in adoption of fashion innovations? Which are the characteristics of these Fashion Adoption Groups? What role social networks play in the diffusion of innovations? How and where early adopters and innovators buy online? Are they really mo...
Sustainability strategy at companies has become a key business and management aspect for the development and success of an enterprise. The communication of strategies and actions relating to sustainability has become increasingly... more
Sustainability strategy at companies has become a key business and management aspect for the development and success of an enterprise. The communication of strategies and actions relating to sustainability has become increasingly important for both companies and brands. This research studies the communication process that forms part of the sustainable strategy of fashion companies, ranging from the corporate website to e-commerce, and it proposes improvements for sustainability communication. Two new models are presented: the Operational Model for Evaluating Fashion Corporate Websites (OMEFCW) and the Operational Model for Evaluating Fashion E-Commerce (OMEFeC), based on the core dimensions of online sustainability communication (orientation, structure, ergonomics and content—OSEC), as established by Siano. In order to obtain an optimal view of the fashion industry, four corporate groups—two luxury fashion groups (Kering Group and Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH)) and two fast fas...
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The use of the internet and of the (mass) media have in some way technically simplified the internationalization processes of companies, reducing the time needed in order to exchange data and information and facilitating the resolution of... more
The use of the internet and of the (mass) media have in some way technically simplified the internationalization processes of companies, reducing the time needed in order to exchange data and information and facilitating the resolution of operational issues. Within this environment, fashion plays a relevant role; in fact, a considerable part of website and e-commerce offers come from this sector. When facing new markets, fashion companies cannot only provide unique and captivating products, but they also need to offer an opportune and personalized communication, able to cross all the cultural and linguistic boundaries that might occur. In order to face this issue a well-designed localization strategy is required. According to Mele et al. [1] localization can be defined as a “cultural translation” and when applied to online contents it consists in the adaptation of different elements such as texts, images, videos, but also units of measure, sizes or calendars. The paper aims, in this sense, to address the lack of literature concerning localization practices in the online fashion environment, providing a first framework on the depiction of the different cultural values on different fashion websites. The present study is an exploratory benchmarking of the field, realized through a comparative research, based on previous studies related to the depiction of Hofstede’s [2] and Hall’s [3] cultural values provided by Singh et al. and Yalcin et al. [4, 5].
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The aim of this paper is to identify influencers and the way they affect the behavior of millennial buyers in the process of consuming fashion goods. The paper examines the literature on opinion leaders, ranging from the origins of the... more
The aim of this paper is to identify influencers and the way they affect the behavior of millennial buyers in the process of consuming fashion goods. The paper examines the literature on opinion leaders, ranging from the origins of the concept to its developments within the context of the Internet. The shift from influential to influencer and the different types of influencer are examined and certain hypotheses regarding the role of influencers (including all the influential players) regarding fashion-buying millennials are presented. The paper presents the results of qualitative and quantitative empirical research based on focus groups and in-depth interviews with 22 university students. Findings from this research and their implications regarding the different stages of the millennial buying process are discussed.
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La revolución digital ha transformado el modo en que los millennials consumen información sobre moda. La aparición de nuevas plataformas digitales (blogs, redes sociales, revistas online, foros…) amplían las posibilidades de acceso a... more
La revolución digital ha transformado el modo en que los millennials consumen información sobre moda. La aparición de nuevas plataformas digitales (blogs, redes sociales, revistas online, foros…) amplían las posibilidades de acceso a diferentes fuentes de información. Ante esta nueva realidad, profesionales y académicos se plantean múltiples cuestiones: ¿siguen leyendo revistas de moda los millennials o solo ven las páginas web de las revistas?, ¿les interesan los libros de moda?, ¿han muerto los blogs y solo consumen información en redes sociales?, ¿cuál es el perfil de quienes más información obtienen sobre moda? El trabajo se basa en una doble metodología de investigación, enfocada al público millennial. Por un lado, una metodología cualitativa, a través de dos grupos de discusión y 22 entrevistas en profundidad. Por otro lado, desde el punto de vista cuantitativo, una encuesta a 1176 millennials. La encuesta se analiza a través de un estudio de estadística descriptiva. Los resultados muestran que los millennials continúan utilizando múltiples fuentes de información en moda. Las revistas siguen siendo una fuente consultada por los individuos con mayor interés por la moda. Instagram se impone como la plataforma más consultada, donde los millennials están más de 5 horas al día. Las webs de las marcas de moda se convierten en fuentes de información clave gracias a la creación de contenidos editoriales.
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Internet transforma el modo en que nos comunicamos, relacionamos y compramos. Gracias a la revolución tecnológica, los individuos pueden acceder a todo tipo de información, comunicarse de forma directa con cientos de usuarios, compartir... more
Internet transforma el modo en que nos comunicamos, relacionamos y compramos. Gracias a la revolución tecnológica, los individuos pueden acceder a todo tipo de información, comunicarse de forma directa con cientos de usuarios, compartir experiencias y opiniones. Como consecuencia, el entorno online propicia un incremento exponencial de líderes de opinión en las redes sociales: son los denominados influencers. Los influencers muestran en las redes vidas que todo joven millennial pueden envidiar y desear: productos gratuitos, eventos, viajes, colaboraciones con marcas, etc. Esta realidad aumenta en volumen estrategias de influencer marketing en la red, colaboraciones entre marcas y líderes de opinión digitales, dando lugar al desarrollo de una nueva profesión. Hoy en día la mayoría de los influencer son jóvenes nativos digitales, que sueñan con ganarse la vida trabajando en campos que les motiven y diviertan. El presente capítulo aborda los cambios de la revolución digital, la evolución de los influencer, la admiración que estos líderes de opinión despiertan entre sus iguales y las consecuencias que puede tener una profesión altamente asociada a la imagen y expuesta a la opinión de todos los internautas. Además, se exponen los casos de cinco influencers que han conseguido, o están en camino de hacer de su pasión su profesión.
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Los estudios sobre el liderazgo de opinión comenzaron con las aportaciones de Paul Lazarsfeld y sus compañeros de la Escuela de Columbia (Katz & Lazarsfeld, 1955), cuando Lazarsfeld desarrolló su teoría de “the-two-step-flow of... more
Los estudios sobre el liderazgo de opinión comenzaron con las aportaciones de Paul Lazarsfeld y sus compañeros de la Escuela de Columbia (Katz & Lazarsfeld, 1955), cuando Lazarsfeld desarrolló su teoría de “the-two-step-flow of communication” que incidía en los efectos limitados de los medios. Además, Lazarsfeld indicó que la moda, por su dinamismo, era un campo propicio para el análisis del papel de la comunicación personal y del liderazgo de opinión. El presente artículo analiza los estudios en este campo entre los años 1950 y 2000; una evolución en la que se establecen las bases sobre las características de los líderes de opinión en moda como medidores de la cultura y valores sociales, fuentes de información, fuentes de consejo, modelos de comportamiento en moda, fuentes de seguridad para la aceptación social. La revisión cronológica de los estudios permite un análisis en profundidad en el que aparecen las claves sobre el papel de la comunicación personal, cuestión relevante en la difusión de las tendencias de moda.
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The growing interest in fashion bloggers within the field of fashion is generating different kinds of research under the headings of communication and consumer behavior. However, one of the key issues within fashion, such as influence,... more
The growing interest in fashion bloggers within the field of fashion is generating different kinds of research under the headings of communication and consumer behavior. However, one of the key issues within fashion, such as influence, has not been researched in any great depth so far. This paper seeks to shed some light on this matter and poses the question as to just how many fashion bloggers can really be considered influential. Through an analysis of the characteristics of what has been considered “influential” within the field of research, and based on a research project that focuses on Spanish bloggers, we can discover which bloggers are influential, what the attributes are that define them, and how we can locate them.
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DOI: 10. 4185 Introducción. Este artículo analiza el papel de la comunicación personal y los líderes de opinión en la difusión de tendencias de moda; donde el aumento de las colecciones de ropa realizadas por las marcas, la... more
DOI: 10. 4185
Introducción. Este artículo analiza el papel de la comunicación personal y los líderes de opinión en la difusión de tendencias de moda; donde el aumento de las colecciones de ropa realizadas por las marcas, la democratización de la moda y el creciente papel de la ‘calle’ para dictar tendencias plantean comprender mejor dichos procesos de difusión. Método. Se realiza un análisis de las distintas aportaciones científicas en el campo d e la difusión de innovaciones y las investigaciones en torno al liderazgo de opinión y la influencia personal. Resultados. El análisis identifica el auge de la comunicación personal y los líderes de opinión, los procesos de difusión de tendencias de moda – que van desde la imitación entre clases sociales a la propagación viral – , y el liderazgo de opinión e influencia personal en la moda. Conclusiones . Este trabajo destaca el papel fundamental que los líderes de opinión ejercen , a través de la comunicación p ersonal, para que una tendencia de moda sea adoptada o rechazada por los consumidores.
Introducción. Este artículo analiza el papel de la comunicación personal y los líderes de opinión en la difusión de tendencias de moda; donde el aumento de las colecciones de ropa realizadas por las marcas, la democratización de la moda y el creciente papel de la ‘calle’ para dictar tendencias plantean comprender mejor dichos procesos de difusión. Método. Se realiza un análisis de las distintas aportaciones científicas en el campo d e la difusión de innovaciones y las investigaciones en torno al liderazgo de opinión y la influencia personal. Resultados. El análisis identifica el auge de la comunicación personal y los líderes de opinión, los procesos de difusión de tendencias de moda – que van desde la imitación entre clases sociales a la propagación viral – , y el liderazgo de opinión e influencia personal en la moda. Conclusiones . Este trabajo destaca el papel fundamental que los líderes de opinión ejercen , a través de la comunicación p ersonal, para que una tendencia de moda sea adoptada o rechazada por los consumidores.
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"Paper presented at the IAMCR 2016 conference in Leicester, UK, July 27-31, 2016" On 24 April 2013 at 9 o’clock in the morning local time, the Rana Plaza building in Dhaka collapsed. This factory produced clothing for 29 different... more
"Paper presented at the IAMCR 2016 conference in Leicester, UK, July 27-31, 2016"
On 24 April 2013 at 9 o’clock in the morning local time, the Rana Plaza building in Dhaka collapsed. This factory produced clothing for 29 different fashion brands. The final casualty figures came to 1,129 dead and 2,515 injured. The Rana Plaza case is the worst accident in the history of fashion manufacturing. The management of the crisis on the part of the individual brands was extremely diverse and led them towards different communications scenarios. However, another crisis emerged at that moment: the industry itself and its manufacturing methods were effectively called into question. In fact, this issue has continued to be controversial and has led to an interesting public debate.
Through the case analyzed here, this paper seeks to meet three objectives: a) stress the importance of communication with regard to the management of the crisis; b) highlight the link between crisis communication and corporate social responsibility; c) focus attention on the fashion industry, where intangible values acquire considerable importance and, therefore, are especially affected by crises.
The events at Rana Plaza raise different questions that pose a challenge regarding crisis communication, given that we are dealing with an industry-wide crisis featuring multiple voices and multiple reactions.
First, this paper addresses the state of the question regarding crisis communication and corporate social responsibility, going on to describe the fashion industry system. The Rana Plaza case is then analyzed, bringing together the facts and the communicative reactions of the brands, as well as the media. Our discussion and conclusions highlight the need to understand this kind of crisis by taking into account other perspectives and questioning some of the traditional ways of approaching the matter of crisis communication.
On 24 April 2013 at 9 o’clock in the morning local time, the Rana Plaza building in Dhaka collapsed. This factory produced clothing for 29 different fashion brands. The final casualty figures came to 1,129 dead and 2,515 injured. The Rana Plaza case is the worst accident in the history of fashion manufacturing. The management of the crisis on the part of the individual brands was extremely diverse and led them towards different communications scenarios. However, another crisis emerged at that moment: the industry itself and its manufacturing methods were effectively called into question. In fact, this issue has continued to be controversial and has led to an interesting public debate.
Through the case analyzed here, this paper seeks to meet three objectives: a) stress the importance of communication with regard to the management of the crisis; b) highlight the link between crisis communication and corporate social responsibility; c) focus attention on the fashion industry, where intangible values acquire considerable importance and, therefore, are especially affected by crises.
The events at Rana Plaza raise different questions that pose a challenge regarding crisis communication, given that we are dealing with an industry-wide crisis featuring multiple voices and multiple reactions.
First, this paper addresses the state of the question regarding crisis communication and corporate social responsibility, going on to describe the fashion industry system. The Rana Plaza case is then analyzed, bringing together the facts and the communicative reactions of the brands, as well as the media. Our discussion and conclusions highlight the need to understand this kind of crisis by taking into account other perspectives and questioning some of the traditional ways of approaching the matter of crisis communication.
Research Interests:
Hoss Intropia is one of the Spain's largest fashion brands and the first one that since its birth aims to generate the lowest possible impact in society and environment. Sustainability in the fashion industry has become a widely discussed... more
Hoss Intropia is one of the Spain's largest fashion brands and the first one that since its birth aims to generate the lowest possible impact in society and environment. Sustainability in the fashion industry has become a widely discussed issue. The fast fashion brands contribute to this matter. It is widely accepted that the fashion industry needs new attitudes towards ethical and environmental practices. In this paper we will try to investigate the case study of sustainability in the brand strategy. Hoss Intropia was created in 1994, has presence in 48 countries with 1600 points of sale. We consider that nowadays this Spanish brand is a good example not only for new trends in branding but also in the way they are influenced by this matter within all the business activities. This case study takes us to be able to offer some conclusions extendable to other brands and highlights the role of sustainability as a strategy goal.
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Since Paul Lazarsfeld’s rst study on the in uentials, carried out in the forties, research on opinion leaders have been developed mainly in the political eld. Nevertheless, in his studies, Lazarsfeld focused his attention on other areas... more
Since Paul Lazarsfeld’s rst study on the in uentials, carried out in the forties, research on opinion leaders have been developed mainly in the political eld. Nevertheless, in his studies, Lazarsfeld focused his attention on other areas such as fashion.
Lazarsfeld identi ed in uentials as those people with a “leadership almost invisible and certainly unconscious, face to face; close, informal and daily”, being able to in uence in their relatives’ voting and purchasing decisions. These opinion leaders’ or in uentials prescribing ability was and is today very powerful and of great interest for its study.
Clearly, the in uence of the Internet in society has changed the way we communicate, interact and consume. In the fashion area, a research study about the in uentials after the advent of the Internet has not been done yet. As a consequence, the main goal of this research is to ful ll this de ciency by providing data of the in uentials in fashion, in the Spanish case.
Lazarsfeld identi ed in uentials as those people with a “leadership almost invisible and certainly unconscious, face to face; close, informal and daily”, being able to in uence in their relatives’ voting and purchasing decisions. These opinion leaders’ or in uentials prescribing ability was and is today very powerful and of great interest for its study.
Clearly, the in uence of the Internet in society has changed the way we communicate, interact and consume. In the fashion area, a research study about the in uentials after the advent of the Internet has not been done yet. As a consequence, the main goal of this research is to ful ll this de ciency by providing data of the in uentials in fashion, in the Spanish case.
Research Interests:
(Requests paper via mail - patricia.sanmiguel@isem.es) Fashion bloggers constitute a new player in the fashion industry. As far as fashion brands are concerned, fashion bloggers have changed the rules of the game, having become a new... more
(Requests paper via mail - patricia.sanmiguel@isem.es) Fashion bloggers constitute a new player in the fashion industry. As far as fashion brands are concerned, fashion bloggers have changed the rules of the game, having become a new factor to take into account in brands’ marketing strategies, replacing or coexisting with traditional media.
Today, the largest segment of the blogosphere consists of fashion blogs, i.e. blogs that focus on fashion brands, fashion products, street style, and personal style (Halvorsen et al., 2013). Bloggers inspire the way people dress and they work alongside publishers and designers. They have also begun to play an increasingly important part at catwalk shows, showrooms and other fashion events (Belch & Belch, 2011; Okonkwo, 2010; Rogers, 2003).
There are few but an increasing number of studies on fashion blogs’ real influence on the fashion scene and, specifically, on the consumer decision-making process (Kulmala et al., 2013; Hahn & Lee, 2014). In spite of the important developments that have been witnessed, there is still little concrete data for marketing managers to work with. There is a lack of literature and, as some authors claim, “more research is needed to better understand how social media has altered brand relationships, in particular how it influences consumers to make choices and recommend products to their social media” (Kontu & Vecchi, 2013, pp. 211).
This paper seeks to shed some light on this new scenario by analyzing how the customer decision-making process works today, following the emergence of fashion bloggers. In this respect, an analysis of what blogger influence means and how it operates is clearly required. Although we have taken into account studies on the profile of who influences the fashion scene (Sádaba & Sanmiguel, 2014; Vernette, 2004; Summers, 1970), in this case our attention focuses on how this influence is exercised.
Today, the largest segment of the blogosphere consists of fashion blogs, i.e. blogs that focus on fashion brands, fashion products, street style, and personal style (Halvorsen et al., 2013). Bloggers inspire the way people dress and they work alongside publishers and designers. They have also begun to play an increasingly important part at catwalk shows, showrooms and other fashion events (Belch & Belch, 2011; Okonkwo, 2010; Rogers, 2003).
There are few but an increasing number of studies on fashion blogs’ real influence on the fashion scene and, specifically, on the consumer decision-making process (Kulmala et al., 2013; Hahn & Lee, 2014). In spite of the important developments that have been witnessed, there is still little concrete data for marketing managers to work with. There is a lack of literature and, as some authors claim, “more research is needed to better understand how social media has altered brand relationships, in particular how it influences consumers to make choices and recommend products to their social media” (Kontu & Vecchi, 2013, pp. 211).
This paper seeks to shed some light on this new scenario by analyzing how the customer decision-making process works today, following the emergence of fashion bloggers. In this respect, an analysis of what blogger influence means and how it operates is clearly required. Although we have taken into account studies on the profile of who influences the fashion scene (Sádaba & Sanmiguel, 2014; Vernette, 2004; Summers, 1970), in this case our attention focuses on how this influence is exercised.
Research Interests:
The impact of the Internet on society has clearly changed the way we communicate, interact and consume. In the communication and marketing area institutional agents like companies try to find the best way to reach their consumers in the... more
The impact of the Internet on society has clearly changed the way we communicate, interact and consume. In the communication and marketing area institutional agents like companies try to find the best way to reach their consumers in the online scenario, but outsiders (such as fashion bloggers) are often able to achieve significant results by using Web 2.0-based tools and innovating the language of fashion communication.
Since the 1990s several studies have shown that marketing based on opinion leaders (Influentials/influencers) is one of the most successful strategies (Mowen, 1990; Weimann, 1994; Keller & Berry, 2003). Which are the personal characteristics of these leaders in fashion? Are fashion bloggers the new influencers? How do they interact with readers and brands? How do these leaders work in the Mediterranean Europe?
This paper explores these issues through a comparison between the Italian and Spanish fields of fashion blogging, where the rise of these new opinion leaders has begun later than in the Anglo-Saxon world, presenting the first Fashion Influentials comparative study between two countries.
The study is made of two sections: first, an opinion leadership questionnaire (sample: 200 bloggers, 100 for each country); second, a desk analysis of the twenty most popular blogs (ten for each country) with the highest level of visibility and their activity on the social media.
Findings show the profile of influential fashion blogger (personal characteristics, knowledge criteria and social factors) and the way they interact with their community and fashion companies.
From an interpretative point of view the paper (second in a series of comparative studies realized by the authors) aims at discussing fashion blogging as a social field able to change the way the whole system of fashion communication works.
Since the 1990s several studies have shown that marketing based on opinion leaders (Influentials/influencers) is one of the most successful strategies (Mowen, 1990; Weimann, 1994; Keller & Berry, 2003). Which are the personal characteristics of these leaders in fashion? Are fashion bloggers the new influencers? How do they interact with readers and brands? How do these leaders work in the Mediterranean Europe?
This paper explores these issues through a comparison between the Italian and Spanish fields of fashion blogging, where the rise of these new opinion leaders has begun later than in the Anglo-Saxon world, presenting the first Fashion Influentials comparative study between two countries.
The study is made of two sections: first, an opinion leadership questionnaire (sample: 200 bloggers, 100 for each country); second, a desk analysis of the twenty most popular blogs (ten for each country) with the highest level of visibility and their activity on the social media.
Findings show the profile of influential fashion blogger (personal characteristics, knowledge criteria and social factors) and the way they interact with their community and fashion companies.
From an interpretative point of view the paper (second in a series of comparative studies realized by the authors) aims at discussing fashion blogging as a social field able to change the way the whole system of fashion communication works.
Research Interests:
El Libro Blanco de la Influencia Responsable es una iniciativa de iCmedia promovida por la Comisión Europea, a través del proyecto SIC-SPAIN 2.0 (Safer Internet Center Spain 2.0) cofinanciado por la Unión Europea a través del programa... more
El Libro Blanco de la Influencia Responsable es una iniciativa de iCmedia promovida por
la Comisión Europea, a través del proyecto SIC-SPAIN 2.0 (Safer Internet Center Spain 2.0) cofinanciado por la Unión Europea a través del programa CEF-Telecom, convocatoria Safer Internet (CEF-TC-2020-1).
El Libro Blanco de la Influencia Responsable ha sido realizado por iCmedia en colaboración con ISEM Fashion School, ConEse Consulting y NewLink Spain.
Este libro tiene como objetivos promover la influencia responsable en las redes sociales, definir el ecosistema de la influencia, identificar las palancas que impulsan la confianza en torno al Influencer y mejorar la credibilidad, transparencia y eficacia del sector.
El Libro Blanco tiene su origen en el conocimiento adquirido por iCmedia a raíz del desarrollo del Influencer Trust Label (ITL). El ITL es un proyecto cofinanciado por la Unión Europea, en el que iCmedia ha trabajado durante los últimos 18 meses. A través de él, iCmedia ha creado una Etiqueta de Confianza para los perfiles de las redes sociales de los Influencers. Esta etiqueta establece unos indicadores de responsabilidad y transparencia, que distinguen a aquellos influencers, marcas y agencias que actúan de modo responsable. Para realizar la Etiqueta de Confianza ITL se trabajó con influencers de toda España a través de focus groups.
El Libro Blanco de la Influencia Responsable es el resultado de una gran conversación entre los stakeholders que forman el ecosistema de la influencia: usuarios y consumidores, influencers, marcas, agencias, medios de comunicación, plataformas sociales, instituciones
y organizaciones, y reguladores. Entre todos, se dibujan y proponen los pasos a seguir para hacer real un entorno de influencia responsable.
la Comisión Europea, a través del proyecto SIC-SPAIN 2.0 (Safer Internet Center Spain 2.0) cofinanciado por la Unión Europea a través del programa CEF-Telecom, convocatoria Safer Internet (CEF-TC-2020-1).
El Libro Blanco de la Influencia Responsable ha sido realizado por iCmedia en colaboración con ISEM Fashion School, ConEse Consulting y NewLink Spain.
Este libro tiene como objetivos promover la influencia responsable en las redes sociales, definir el ecosistema de la influencia, identificar las palancas que impulsan la confianza en torno al Influencer y mejorar la credibilidad, transparencia y eficacia del sector.
El Libro Blanco tiene su origen en el conocimiento adquirido por iCmedia a raíz del desarrollo del Influencer Trust Label (ITL). El ITL es un proyecto cofinanciado por la Unión Europea, en el que iCmedia ha trabajado durante los últimos 18 meses. A través de él, iCmedia ha creado una Etiqueta de Confianza para los perfiles de las redes sociales de los Influencers. Esta etiqueta establece unos indicadores de responsabilidad y transparencia, que distinguen a aquellos influencers, marcas y agencias que actúan de modo responsable. Para realizar la Etiqueta de Confianza ITL se trabajó con influencers de toda España a través de focus groups.
El Libro Blanco de la Influencia Responsable es el resultado de una gran conversación entre los stakeholders que forman el ecosistema de la influencia: usuarios y consumidores, influencers, marcas, agencias, medios de comunicación, plataformas sociales, instituciones
y organizaciones, y reguladores. Entre todos, se dibujan y proponen los pasos a seguir para hacer real un entorno de influencia responsable.
Research Interests:
El Libro Blanco de la Influencia Responsable es una iniciativa de iCmedia promovida por la Comisión Europea, a través del proyecto SIC-SPAIN 2.0 (Safer Internet Center Spain 2.0) cofinanciado por la Unión Europea a través del programa... more
El Libro Blanco de la Influencia Responsable es una iniciativa de iCmedia promovida por la Comisión Europea, a través del proyecto SIC-SPAIN 2.0 (Safer Internet Center Spain 2.0) cofinanciado por la Unión Europea a través del programa CEF-Telecom, convocatoria Safer Internet (CEF-TC-2020-1).
El Libro Blanco de la Influencia Responsable ha sido realizado por iCmedia en colaboración con ISEM Fashion School, ConEse Consulting y NewLink Spain.
Este libro tiene como objetivos promover la influencia responsable en las redes sociales, definir el ecosistema de la influencia, identificar las palancas que impulsan la confianza en torno al Influencer y mejorar la credibilidad, transparencia y eficacia del sector.
El Libro Blanco tiene su origen en el conocimiento adquirido por iCmedia a raíz del desarrollo del Influencer Trust Label (ITL). El ITL es un proyecto cofinanciado por la Unión Europea, en el que iCmedia ha trabajado durante los últimos 18 meses. A través de él, iCmedia ha creado una Etiqueta de Confianza para los perfiles de las redes sociales de los Influencers. Esta etiqueta establece unos indicadores de responsabilidad y transparencia, que distinguen a aquellos influencers, marcas y agencias que actúan de modo responsable. Para realizar la Etiqueta de Confianza ITL se trabajó con influencers de toda España a través de focus groups.
El Libro Blanco de la Influencia Responsable es el resultado de una gran conversación entre los stakeholders que forman el ecosistema de la influencia: usuarios y consumidores, influencers, marcas, agencias, medios de comunicación, plataformas sociales, instituciones
y organizaciones, y reguladores. Entre todos, se dibujan y proponen los pasos a seguir para hacer real un entorno de influencia responsable.
Para llevar a cabo este proyecto, se ha realizado una exhaustiva recogida de información a través de más 40 entrevistas en profundidad a los representantes más destacados de los agentes que componen el ecosistema de la influencia digital. Durante estas entrevistas, se ha analizado la situación actual, descrito los retos y palancas de cambio de la influencia responsable, y se han determinado las recomendaciones y pasos a seguir para crear un entorno de influencia responsable promovido por todas las partes implicadas.
Este libro presenta los resultados de todo este trabajo de investigación.
El Libro Blanco de la Influencia Responsable pretende impulsar en todos los usuarios, influencers y stakeholders del ecosistema de la influencia digital, el conocimiento del poder de influencia de los Influencers digitales y del impacto que tienen en la sociedad, especialmente en los menores. Todos juntos debemos caminar hacia la Influencia Responsable.
El Libro Blanco de la Influencia Responsable ha sido realizado por iCmedia en colaboración con ISEM Fashion School, ConEse Consulting y NewLink Spain.
Este libro tiene como objetivos promover la influencia responsable en las redes sociales, definir el ecosistema de la influencia, identificar las palancas que impulsan la confianza en torno al Influencer y mejorar la credibilidad, transparencia y eficacia del sector.
El Libro Blanco tiene su origen en el conocimiento adquirido por iCmedia a raíz del desarrollo del Influencer Trust Label (ITL). El ITL es un proyecto cofinanciado por la Unión Europea, en el que iCmedia ha trabajado durante los últimos 18 meses. A través de él, iCmedia ha creado una Etiqueta de Confianza para los perfiles de las redes sociales de los Influencers. Esta etiqueta establece unos indicadores de responsabilidad y transparencia, que distinguen a aquellos influencers, marcas y agencias que actúan de modo responsable. Para realizar la Etiqueta de Confianza ITL se trabajó con influencers de toda España a través de focus groups.
El Libro Blanco de la Influencia Responsable es el resultado de una gran conversación entre los stakeholders que forman el ecosistema de la influencia: usuarios y consumidores, influencers, marcas, agencias, medios de comunicación, plataformas sociales, instituciones
y organizaciones, y reguladores. Entre todos, se dibujan y proponen los pasos a seguir para hacer real un entorno de influencia responsable.
Para llevar a cabo este proyecto, se ha realizado una exhaustiva recogida de información a través de más 40 entrevistas en profundidad a los representantes más destacados de los agentes que componen el ecosistema de la influencia digital. Durante estas entrevistas, se ha analizado la situación actual, descrito los retos y palancas de cambio de la influencia responsable, y se han determinado las recomendaciones y pasos a seguir para crear un entorno de influencia responsable promovido por todas las partes implicadas.
Este libro presenta los resultados de todo este trabajo de investigación.
El Libro Blanco de la Influencia Responsable pretende impulsar en todos los usuarios, influencers y stakeholders del ecosistema de la influencia digital, el conocimiento del poder de influencia de los Influencers digitales y del impacto que tienen en la sociedad, especialmente en los menores. Todos juntos debemos caminar hacia la Influencia Responsable.
Research Interests:
La moda es un negocio situado siempre en la vanguardia de los cambios sociales. Por eso, ante la revolución digital, el sector está demostrando su rápida capacidad de transformación y adaptación a las nuevas relaciones creadas entre... more
La moda es un negocio situado siempre en la vanguardia de los cambios sociales. Por eso, ante la revolución digital, el sector está demostrando su rápida capacidad de transformación y adaptación a las nuevas relaciones creadas entre consumidores y empresas. Nuevos modelos de negocio, mutaciones de los ya existentes, híbridos entre lo digital y lo físico aparecen en un mapa diferente de posibilidades para el consumidor de moda. Su acercamiento a la oferta se hace desde distintos canales, y los puntos de interacción se multiplican. De este modo, la tradicional separación organizativa y externa entre negocio y comunicación en las empresas de moda se diluye y genera un nuevo sistema de trabajo. Moda en el entorno digital —el primer libro de la recién inaugurada colección ISEM-EUNSA— da a conocer estos nuevos retos, tanto para la industria de la moda como para los consumidores.
Research Interests:
La moda es un negocio situado siempre en la vanguardia de los cambios sociales. Por eso, ante la revolución digital, el sector está demostrando su rápida capacidad de transformación y adaptación a las nuevas relaciones creadas entre... more
La moda es un negocio situado siempre en la vanguardia de los cambios sociales. Por eso, ante la revolución digital, el sector está demostrando su rápida capacidad de transformación y adaptación a las nuevas relaciones creadas entre consumidores y empresas.
Nuevos modelos de negocio, mutaciones de los ya existentes, híbridos entre lo digital y lo físico aparecen en un mapa diferente de posibilidades para el consumidor de moda. Su acercamiento a la oferta se hace desde distintos canales, y los puntos de interacción se multiplican. De este modo, la tradicional separación organizativa y externa entre negocio y comunicación en las empresas de moda se diluye y genera un nuevo sistema de trabajo.
Moda en el entorno digital —el primer libro de la recién inaugurada colección ISEM-EUNSA— da a conocer estos nuevos retos, tanto para la industria de la moda como para los consumidores
Nuevos modelos de negocio, mutaciones de los ya existentes, híbridos entre lo digital y lo físico aparecen en un mapa diferente de posibilidades para el consumidor de moda. Su acercamiento a la oferta se hace desde distintos canales, y los puntos de interacción se multiplican. De este modo, la tradicional separación organizativa y externa entre negocio y comunicación en las empresas de moda se diluye y genera un nuevo sistema de trabajo.
Moda en el entorno digital —el primer libro de la recién inaugurada colección ISEM-EUNSA— da a conocer estos nuevos retos, tanto para la industria de la moda como para los consumidores
Research Interests:
Un análisis de las 100 Marcas Moda-Retail y las 20 Marcas Lujo-Premium con mayor impacto digital. El estudio permite: 1. Conocer el posicionamiento de las marcas españolas en un entorno digital sin fronteras. 2. Conocer el... more
Un análisis de las 100 Marcas Moda-Retail y las 20 Marcas Lujo-Premium con mayor impacto digital. El estudio permite:
1. Conocer el posicionamiento de las marcas españolas en un entorno digital sin fronteras.
2. Conocer el posicionamiento de marcas internacionales en el mercado español.
3. Analizar el comportamiento de 120 marcas de moda: fortalezas y debilidades en sus estrategias digitales.
4.Establecer un análisis comparativo de cada marca respecto a sus competidores.
5. Aprender de las mejores prácticas de comportamiento digital.
6. Ayudar en la toma de decisiones sobre estrategias de marketing digital.
1. Conocer el posicionamiento de las marcas españolas en un entorno digital sin fronteras.
2. Conocer el posicionamiento de marcas internacionales en el mercado español.
3. Analizar el comportamiento de 120 marcas de moda: fortalezas y debilidades en sus estrategias digitales.
4.Establecer un análisis comparativo de cada marca respecto a sus competidores.
5. Aprender de las mejores prácticas de comportamiento digital.
6. Ayudar en la toma de decisiones sobre estrategias de marketing digital.
Research Interests:
More than a decade after their first appearance, fashion blogs have established themselves as a constant feature of the fashion scene. However, in many respects they have not yet achieved a definitive status within the field of fashion... more
More than a decade after their first appearance, fashion blogs have established themselves as a constant feature of the fashion scene. However, in many respects they have not yet achieved a definitive status within the field of fashion media, at least in terms of legitimization. This chapter addresses the following question: is the golden era of fashion blogging over? It does so by comparing two national fields of fashion blogging, those of Italy and Spain. From a theoretical point of view bloggers are investigated as influentials and their work is considered as constitutive of the contemporary field of the fashion media, drawing on a Bourdieusian perspective. The arguments formulated in this chapter are based on quantitative and qualitative research carried out in Italy and Spain. Through desk analysis we investigated the features of the bloggers with the highest levels of visibility and their activity in the social media. A sample of 62 bloggers were interviewed with qualitative techniques to discuss the experience of common fashion bloggers. We conclude that blogs have gained a more institutionalized and normalized role in the field of fashion. Despite the presence of many aspirational bloggers, the field has left its ‘naïve’ stage and has become more professionalized. Players such as companies and journalists, initially not always particularly enthusiastic about bloggers (especially in Italy), recognize and legitimize the role of bloggers as fashion influentials by employing them as marketing tools and contributors to magazines. The role of semi-professionalised bloggers is highlighted. Together with celebrities and common bloggers, they are part of the tripartite hierarchy that characterises the field of fashion blogging.