KR101154501B1 - A composition of eliminating keratin comprising saussurea involucratae extract - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a exfoliating composition comprising cinnamic acid extract, more specifically 0.1 to 10% by weight of cinnamic acid extract based on the total composition, an exfoliating composition further comprising a wax and a surfactant It is about.

Exfoliation composition of the present invention has a feature of less skin stinging, excellent exfoliation promoting effect.

Description

A composition having a keratin exfoliation promotion effect including cheonsan snow flakes {A COMPOSITION OF ELIMINATING KERATIN COMPRISING SAUSSUREA INVOLUCRATAE EXTRACT}

[Industrial use]

The present invention relates to a composition for exfoliation comprising cheonsan seolyeon extract, and more particularly to a composition for exfoliation having less irritation and excellent exfoliation effect by containing 0.1 to 10% by weight of cheonsan sulyeon extract.

 [Private Technology]

Generally, the skin is classified into three parts: the upper skin layer, the epidermis, the dermis, and the subcutaneous fat layer. The epidermis is subdivided into stratum corneum, granule layer, pore layer, and basal layer. The epidermal cells of basal layer are differentiated as they rise up the skin and finally reach the stratum corneum. The epidermal cells that reach the stratum corneum lose their nuclei and are converted to dead cells as they are filled with insoluble proteins called keratin.

The stratum corneum consists of differentiated epidermal cells (skin cells) and the skin lipids that fill them in. The stratum corneum prevents the release of substances in the body and protects the body from external physical, chemical and biological stimuli. do. Keratinocytes are connected by a protein called desmosomes, and as they rise up the stratum corneum, the desmosomes break down, weakening cohesion between keratinocytes, and finally keratinocytes separate from the skin and fall off. In normal skin, the stratum corneum consists of 15 to 20 layers, and it takes 15 to 20 days for them to be completely separated (British J. of Dermatology, 86, 14-19, 1974; KMHalprin, Perilla, 12 (4), 265-271, 1988; M. Takahashi), so about one layer of keratinocytes per day falls off.

Aging skin, dry skin, acne skin and the like, the separation of the stratum corneum is slower than normal, the stratum corneum thickening (stratum corneum) phenomenon, the outstanding feature that appears in the appearance of the skin is the scale of the skin (scale). The stratum corneum stratification is mainly due to decreased skin moisturizing power, decreased production and activity of desmosome degrading enzymes, decreased cellular activity, and causes skin aging, UV exposure, and pollution. Artificially thinning the thickened stratum corneum by these internal and external factors increases the activity or regeneration of living cells under the stratum corneum, reducing skin scales appearing on the skin appearance and softening the skin, which does not cause irritation. There is a lot of research to solve the keratin stratification within the scope.

In order to eliminate the stratum corneum, the skin is physically rubbed or chemical dermabrasion is used. In particular, chemical dermabrasion has the additional effects such as fine wrinkle improvement, rough skin relief, and blemish removal. The concentration of the alpha hydroxy acid used for such chemical peeling is used at a high concentration of at least 20 to 30% or more, but at a low concentration of less than 10%, the stratum corneum is slowly peeled off (J. Am. Acad. Dermatol., 11, 867-879). , 1984; Van Scott et al.), Skin moisturization (happi, july, 66-68, 1994; Tom et al.), And fine lines (Cutis, 43, 222-228, 1989; Van Scott et al.). Many products are released in the pharmaceutical industry. However, alpha hydroxy acid complains of tingling and irritation due to low pH, so use concentration and pH control are very important to alleviate skin side effects.

In addition, the skin side effects can be reduced by attaching proteins, lipids, etc. to the alpha hydroxy acid, or by adding side effect relieving agents or modifying the structure, but the effects such as exfoliation and fine wrinkle improvement are also reduced, thereby minimizing side effects and maximum It is still difficult to get the effect.

Cheonsan Seolyeon (Saussurea involucrates) is a plant that grows mainly in China, and its pharmacological effects are known to be effective in anti-cancer, anti-inflammatory, and cardiovascular system. Patents in Cheonsan Seolyeon have skin softening effect, moisturizing effect and skin elasticity effect. Invention (China Patent Application Publication No. 106286) insisting on the invention, Invention insisting on the moisturizing and UV protection effect (China Patent Application Publication No. 1513437), Invention claiming the skin nutrition supply, moisturizing effect (China Patent Application Publication No. 1497423 Ho).

The present invention is to solve the above problems, an object of the present invention is to provide an exfoliation composition comprising a cheonsan sulyeon extract with excellent exfoliation effect and less stinging symptoms.

The present invention provides a composition for exfoliation comprising 0.1 to 10% by weight of cheonsan seolyeon extract to achieve the above object.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

Cheonsan Seolyeon (Saussurea involucrates) was used by the Chinese Xinjiang Wiggle and Inner Mongolia as a medicinal herb, the seeds germinate at 0 ° C, grow at 3 to 5 ° C, and the shoots can withstand temperatures below minus 21 ° C. It grows more than five to seven times higher than other plants even in an environment of less than two months in growth, and flowers bloom only after five years, but the actual growth period is only eight months, which is relatively unique in biology. The Tianshan Snow Lime is mainly distributed in Xinjiang, Yunnan, Xinjiang, Qinghai and Gansu Sichuan, and grows in high mountain areas, deserts and rock crevices around 4000m above sea level.

The inventors of the present invention have invented the exfoliating composition of the present invention by paying attention to the exfoliation effect in addition to the known effects of Chunshan Sulyeon.

Exfoliating composition of the present invention may comprise 0.1 to 10% by weight of cheonsan sulyeon extract, it may further comprise a wax and a surfactant. Preferably the cheonsan seolyeon extract may comprise 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the dry weight of the total composition. If it is less than 0.1% by weight it is difficult to expect a substantial exfoliation effect, if it exceeds 10% by weight affects the stability of the formulation, the effect does not improve in proportion to the increase in weight%.

The cheonsan sulyeon provided by the present invention is not limited to any site, such as leaves, flowers, stems or roots, it can be extracted by a conventional extraction method. In addition, the type and content of the extraction solvent may be arbitrarily selected according to the purpose. Preferably, the extractant is one pure solvent selected from a solvent group including purified water, anhydrous or hydrous methanol having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, ethanol, propyl alcohol, butyl alcohol, ethyl acetate, glycerin, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, or Two or more are mixed solvents combined and may be used in an amount of 1 to 20 times the total volume of the herbal medicine.

The exfoliation composition of the present invention may further comprise a wax component or a surfactant. The wax component is a component that stabilizes emulsification, and may be one or more mixtures selected from the group consisting of polyhydric alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol, bis wax, and shea butter.

In addition, the surfactant is at least one selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene cured castor oil, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 20, sorbitan monostearate, polysorbate 80, and glyceryl stearate / laures-23 And anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants or nonionic surfactants can be used.

However, the exfoliating composition of the present invention is not limited to the above examples and may include all waxes or surfactants that can be commonly used in cosmetics.

In addition, the composition of the present invention can be used for all kinds of ingredients that can be used in conventional cosmetics, such as sunscreen, fragrances, preservatives, antioxidants, pigments, etc., by adding it softening cosmetics, nourishing cosmetics, nutrition cream, massage cream It may have a formulation of skin or hair cleanser and external skin ointment, including cosmetics, soaps, foam cleansing, body cleansers, shampoos, rinses, etc., including essences, packs and the like.

Hereinafter, preferred embodiments of the present invention will be described. However, the following examples are only preferred embodiments of the present invention, and the present invention is not limited to the following examples.

Example  1 to 11: Cheonsan Snowyeon  Preparation of Extract

First, after completely drying the cheonsanolyeon, one selected from the group consisting of distilled water, ethanol, methanol, butanol, ethyl acetate, propanol, glycerin, hydrous butylene glycol, hydrous propylene glycol as an extraction solvent as shown in Table 1 below The above solvent was added at a volume of 10 to 20 times the amount of dry lead of Chunsan. Extraction method, the prepared herbal ingredients in the selected solvent, boiled for 12 hours in an extractor equipped with a cooling condenser and extracted with 300 mesh filter cloth, the filtrate was left at 4 to 15 ℃ for 7 days to mature, and then Whatman filter paper By filtering with cheonseolyeon extract was prepared.

division Extraction solvent Volume (Kg) Yield (Kg) Example 1 Distilled water 5 3.4 Example 2 70% ethanol 6 4.5 Example 3 70% methanol 6 4.1 Example 4 70% Butanol 6 4.1 Example 5 Ethyl acetate 5 3.6 Example 6 Propanol 5 3.7 Example 7 glycerin 5 3.6 Example 8 Butylene Glycol 4 2.7 Example 9 Propylene glycol 4 2.7 Example 10 30% water butylene glycol 4 2.6 Example 11 30% water propylene glycol 4 2.5

Example  12: Cheonsan Snowyeon  Containing extract Skin Ointment

After heating and completely dissolving the components according to the composition of Table 2, and then stirred at 4500rpm to emulsify, and then cooled to 50 ℃ again to add the cheonsansulyeon extract and stirred for 3 minutes, then cooled to room temperature of Example 2 An external skin ointment containing cheonsan seolyeon extract was prepared.

ingredient weight% Cheonsan Sulyeon Extract 5.0 Diethyl sebacate 8.0 Prepayment 5.0 Polyoxyethylene Oleyl-Ether Phosphate (E0 4) 6.0 Sodium benzoate Quantity Vaseline Balance Sum 100

Example  13: Cheonsan Snowyeon  Essence Containing Extract

After heating and completely dissolving the components according to the composition of Table 3, after emulsifying with a homomixer for 5 minutes while stirring, and when cooled to 50 ℃ again after adding 5 g of cheonsansulfyeon extract of Example 2 and stirring for 3 minutes, Cooling to room temperature to prepare an essence containing the cheonsansulyeon extract of Example 2.

ingredient weight% Cheonsan Sulyeon Extract 2 Concentrated glycerin 10 Propylene glycol 10 Polyoxyethylene Cured Castor Oil (E040) 1.0 Sodium hyaluronate aqueous solution (1%) 5.0 ethanol 5.0 antiseptic Quantity Spices Quantity Pigment Quantity Purified water Balance Sum 100

Example  14: Cheonsan Snowyeon  Nutritional Cream Containing Extract

After heating the components according to the composition of Table 4 to completely dissolve, after emulsifying with a homomixer for 5 minutes while stirring, and when cooled to 50 ℃ again after adding 5g of cheonsansulyeon extract of Example 2 and stirring for 3 minutes, Cooling to room temperature to prepare a nourishing cream containing the extract of Cheonsan Sulyeon of Example 2.

ingredient weight% Cheonsan Sulyeon Extract 1.0 Stearyl alcohol 6.0 Stearic acid 2.0 Concentrated glycerin 1.0 Squalane 9.0 1,3-butylene glycol 6.0 Polysorbate 60 1.5 Polyethylene Glycol 1000 4.0 Cured Lanolin 4.0 Octyl dodecanol 10.0 Sorbitan stearate 0.8 Triethanolamine 0.5 antiseptic Quantity Spices Quantity Pigment Quantity Purified water Balance Sum 100

Experimental Example  One: Cheonsan Snowyeon  Extract Exfoliation  Promotion effect

Thirty healthy males between the ages of 20 and 40 years were selected as subjects, and the inner color of the upper arm region of the subject was measured with a Chroma meter (CR-200, Minolta, Japan) before applying the extract obtained in Example 2. 10% Dihydroxy acetone (DHA) was added to the Hill top chamber The Hill Top Companies) about 0.4ml and attached to the inner arm upper arm for 6 hours. After 24 hours, the color of the brown-colored part was measured by DHA, and the color difference was compared with that before application of the sample. Thereafter, while applying the sample twice a day, the degree of discoloration was measured by a chroma meter every day, and the time taken to return to the original skin color was measured. Keratin peeling rate was calculated by the following formula and shown in Table 5.

Exfoliation rate (%) = (Blank TT-TT during sample application) / Blank TT x 100

TT (Turnover Time): The time taken for the old stratum corneum to be replaced by the new stratum corneum. In this experiment, the time taken for the skin to be colored by DHA to fully revert.

sample Turnover Time (Days) Exfoliation rate (%) Blank ^* 18.4 ± 3.8 - Control (SCL ^** ) 16.9 ± 5.2 8.1 Glycolic acid 5% 14.3 ± 4.6 22.2 Lactic acid 5% 14.9 ± 4.8 19.0 Cheonsan Sulyeon Extract 5% 11.0 ± 2.7 40.2

Blank ^* : No sample applied after staining with DHA

SCL ^** (simple cosmetic liquid): refers to a solvent (water: ethanol: 1,3-butylene glycol = 80: 15: 5) used to improve applicability to skin. All samples used in this exfoliation experiment are Used by dissolving in SCL.

As can be seen in Table 5, glycolic acid and lactic acid, which are generally known as excellent exfoliants, showed about 20% exfoliation effect when used at 5% concentration, while the same concentration of cinnamic acid extract was used. Showed an exfoliation effect of about 40.2%, which is nearly twice that of the two alpha hydroxy acids.

In addition, in order to determine the exfoliation effect according to the concentration of cinnamic acid snow extract, dilute the cinnamic acid extract to the following concentration and measure the exfoliation effect by the above method is shown in Table 6.

sample Turnover Time (days) Exfoliation rate Blank      18.4 ± 3.8         - Control (SCL)      16.9 ± 5.2        8.1% Cheonsan Sulyeon Extract 10%      10.1 ± 1.9       45.1% Cheonsan Sulyeon Extract 5%      11.0 ± 2.5       40.2% Cheonsan Sulyeon Extract 2%      13.3 ± 3.4       27.7% Cheonsan Sulyeon Extract 1%      15.6 ± 3.8       15.2% Cheonsan Sulyeon Extract 0.1%      16.7 ± 5.2        9.2% Cheonsan Sulyeon Extract 0.01%      16.8 ± 6.5        8.7%

As can be seen in Table 6, when the concentration of the cheonsan sulyeon extract is less than 0.1% showed less than 10% of the exfoliation effect, when the concentration of the cheonsan sulyeon extract is about 10% keratin exfoliation effect Since the keratin release agent containing the cheonsan sulyeon extract of the present invention seems to include a cheonsan sulyeon extract of 0.1 to 10% concentration.

Experimental Example  2: Cheonsan Snowyeon  Determination of Stinginess of Extracts

Using the 5% concentration 400uL Cheonsan Sulyeon extract of Example 2, which was found to be remarkably excellent in exfoliation effect in Experimental Example 1 with the same concentration and amount of glycolic acid and lactic acid as described below stinging test (stinging test) Measured.

Thirty healthy women aged between 20 and 35 years old were first rinsed to remove sebum and dust secreted beforehand, and then adapted for 15 minutes in a constant temperature and humidity room (27 ° C., 70% relative humidity). Thereafter, the sample was wetted with about 0.4 ml of the nonwoven fabric, and a nonwoven fabric having a diameter of 4 cm was attached to the periphery of the nose and the cheek, and then removed after 20 seconds. Thereafter, after the time of Table 7 elapsed, the degree of tingling was measured by subjective judgment of the test subject based on the following criteria.

Sting score Judgment 0.0-0.3 No stinging effect 0.4-1.0 Slightly stingy 1.1-2.0 Stinging 2.1-3.0 Causes severe stinging

Time (seconds) Hourly score Score average Water


10 0.1
0.13

150 0.2 300 0.1 480 0.1 Glycolic acid 5%


10 1.9 2.08


150 2.5 300 2.4 480 1.5 Lactic acid 5%


10 1.8 1.95


150 2.2 300 2.2 480 1.6 Cheonsan Snowyeon 5%


10 0.2 0.25


150 0.2 300 0.3 480 0.3

As shown in Table 8, it was found that the degree of stinging was lower than that of glycolic acid and lactic acid at the same concentration when the cheonsan seolyeon extract was included.

Experimental Example  3: Example  12 to 14 Exfoliation  And stinging effect

Exfoliation ointment, essence and nourishing cream, each containing the cheonsan seolyeon extracts of Examples 12 to 14 using 400uL each of the exfoliation rate and the degree of tingling by the method in Experimental Examples 1 and 2 are described in Table 9 below.

       Exfoliation rate (%)      Sting Score (Average) Example 12             42            0.2 Example 13             29            0.13 Example 14             17            0.11

As can be seen in Table 9, all of the formulations of the present invention containing the cheonsanolyeon extract can also be seen that not only high exfoliation effect, but also very low degree of stinging.

The composition of the present invention is a exfoliating cosmetic composition containing cinnamic acid, and because it contains cinnamic acid, not only has less skin irritation than the existing exfoliating cosmetics, it has an excellent exfoliating effect.

Claims (4)

Exfoliating cosmetic composition comprising 0.1 to 10% by weight of cheonsanolyeon extract based on the total composition. The method of claim 1, Wherein said extract is extracted with purified water, methanol, ethanol, glycerin, ethyl acetate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dichloromethane and hexane at least one extraction solvent selected from the group consisting of. The method of claim 1, A cosmetic composition for exfoliation further comprising at least one wax selected from the group consisting of paraffin wax, higher alcohols, higher fatty acids and fatty acid esters. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, The exfoliating composition is characterized in that the cosmetic composition is formulated to be selected from the formulation of the lotion, gel, water-soluble liquid, cream, essence, color cosmetics, hair cleaner, skin cleaner and skin ointment, Exfoliating cosmetic composition comprising 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the total composition.