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JP2000154457A - Dyeing and finishing method for woven fabric - Google Patents

Dyeing and finishing method for woven fabric

Info

Publication number
JP2000154457A
JP2000154457A JP10325231A JP32523198A JP2000154457A JP 2000154457 A JP2000154457 A JP 2000154457A JP 10325231 A JP10325231 A JP 10325231A JP 32523198 A JP32523198 A JP 32523198A JP 2000154457 A JP2000154457 A JP 2000154457A
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
width
woven fabric
fabric
dyeing
finishing
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
JP10325231A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JP4357017B2 (en
Inventor
Hiroshi Yamazaki
博 山崎
Kazuto Oue
一人 大植
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Asahi Chemical Industry Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Asahi Chemical Industry Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Asahi Chemical Industry Co Ltd filed Critical Asahi Chemical Industry Co Ltd
Priority to JP32523198A priority Critical patent/JP4357017B2/en
Publication of JP2000154457A publication Critical patent/JP2000154457A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of JP4357017B2 publication Critical patent/JP4357017B2/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Fee Related legal-status Critical Current

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Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a finishing process for woven fabrics using poly(trimethylene terephthalate) fibers at least in the weft of the fabric, thus giving the woven fabric having soft fabric hand, high dimensional stability and can be finished in a prescribed fabric width. SOLUTION: The woven fabric constituted with poly(trimethylene terephthalate) yarns at least in the weft is scoured. After the scouring, the woven fabric is subjected to the >=3% shrinkage preset to the fabric width, then dyed and finished. The preset is carried out at 140-200 deg.C in dry heat for 10 or more seconds and the preset in the temperature range from 160 deg.C to 180 deg.C for about 20-90 seconds is preferred because sufficient set effect can be attained.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

【0001】[0001]

【発明の属する技術分野】本発明は少なくとも緯糸にポ
リトリメチレンテレフタレート繊維で構成された織物の
仕上げ加工に関する。さらに詳しくは、風合がソフトで
寸法安定性に優れ、規格した織物幅に仕上げる加工法を
提供するものである。
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a finishing process for a woven fabric comprising at least a weft yarn made of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber. More specifically, the present invention provides a processing method for finishing the fabric in a standardized fabric width with a soft feel and excellent dimensional stability.

【0002】[0002]

【従来の技術】各種繊維からなる織物を染色仕上げ加工
する上で、織物は規格された幅に仕上げることが重要で
ある。染色仕上げした織物は、縫製工程を通り、製品化
される。特に縫製工程では、製品を作るために各パーツ
に裁断するが、織物のロスが少なくなる様に各パーツの
取り方を決めている。よって、織物が規格幅より狭くな
ることは予定していたパーツが取れなくなり余分な生地
を使用することになって、コストアップに繋がるため問
題である。
2. Description of the Related Art In dyeing and finishing a woven fabric composed of various fibers, it is important to finish the woven fabric to a specified width. The dyed woven fabric passes through a sewing process and is commercialized. In particular, in the sewing process, each part is cut to make a product, but the method of taking each part is determined so that the loss of the fabric is reduced. Therefore, it is a problem that the woven fabric becomes narrower than the standard width because the planned parts cannot be removed and extra fabric is used, which leads to an increase in cost.

【0003】ポリエチレンテレフタレート繊維は、特に
熱セット性に優れており、このポリエチレンテレフタレ
ート繊維からなる織物は、常法に従って、製織、精練、
プレセット、染色、仕上げ加工という一般的な染色仕上
げ加工を行った場合、通常、プレセットでは織物幅を有
り幅(精練後の生地幅に対して、ヒ−トセッタ−の設定
幅を−1〜1%以内にする)で行い、仕上げ加工では染
色後の幅に対して2〜5%の幅出しをしてセットしてい
るが、得られた織物は規格巾に仕上がり寸法安定性に優
れ、且つ、風合いは幅出しの有無では殆ど変化はしな
い。
[0003] Polyethylene terephthalate fibers are particularly excellent in heat-setting properties.
When a general dyeing finishing process such as presetting, dyeing, and finishing is performed, the presetting usually has a woven fabric width (a set width of a heat setter of −1 to a cloth width after scouring is set to −1 to 1). In the finishing process, the width is set to 2 to 5% of the width after dyeing, but the obtained fabric is finished to a standard width and has excellent dimensional stability. Further, the texture hardly changes depending on the presence or absence of the tentering.

【0004】一方、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート繊
維は、低ヤング率、且つ、高弾性回復率の繊維であり、
ナイロン繊維に匹敵するような柔軟な風合の繊維である
が、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート繊維からなる織物
を、ポリエチレンテレフタレート繊維からなる織物と同
様な染色仕上げ加工を行うと、仕上げ加工時では規格幅
より大幅に狭い織物しか得られない。従って、プレセッ
ト後収縮した幅を仕上げ加工時に再度規格幅に設定して
幅出しセットを行った場合は、幅出しにより風合いが非
常に硬くなり、且つ幅出しにより寸法安定性が悪くな
る。又更に、規格の幅に幅出ししたにも関わらず完全に
セットされず規格幅より狭い織物しか得られなかった。
On the other hand, polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is a fiber having a low Young's modulus and a high elastic recovery rate,
It is a fiber with a soft feel comparable to nylon fiber, but if a woven fabric made of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is dyed and finished in the same way as a woven fabric made of polyethylene terephthalate fiber, the finished width will be larger than the standard width. Only very narrow fabrics can be obtained. Therefore, in the case where the width contracted after the presetting is set again to the standard width at the time of finishing processing and the tentering set is performed, the texture becomes very hard due to the tentering, and the dimensional stability deteriorates due to the tentering. Further, despite the widening of the standard width, the fabric was not completely set, and only a fabric narrower than the standard width was obtained.

【0005】この様にポリトリメチレンテレフタレート
繊維からなる織物はセット性が悪くプレセットや仕上げ
セットで規格幅に設定しても設定値通りの仕上げができ
ない。又、幅出しセットを行うと風合いが硬くなる等の
問題があり、通常のポリエチレンテレフタレート繊維織
物と同様の染色加工工程では風合いがソフトで寸法安定
性に優れ規格した織物幅に仕上げることは困難であっ
た。
[0005] As described above, the woven fabric made of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber has a poor setting property and cannot be finished according to the set value even when the width is set to a standard width by presetting or finishing. In addition, there is a problem that the texture becomes hard when the tentering set is performed, and it is difficult to finish the fabric to a standard fabric width with a soft texture and excellent dimensional stability in a dyeing process similar to a normal polyethylene terephthalate fiber fabric. there were.

【0006】[0006]

【発明が解決しようとする課題】本発明は、かかる要求
に応えた、風合がソフトで寸法安定性に優れ、規格した
織物幅に仕上がったポリトリメチレンテレフタレート繊
維で構成された織物を提供するものである。
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention provides a fabric which is made of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber which meets such a demand and has a soft feel, excellent dimensional stability and finished to a standard fabric width. Things.

【0007】[0007]

【課題を解決するための手段】本発明者らは、上記の課
題について鋭意検討した結果、特定の方法で染色仕上げ
加工を行うと課題解決の目的が達成できることを見出
し、本発明を完成するに至った。すなわち本発明は、少
なくとも緯糸がポリトリメチレンテレフタレート繊維で
構成された織物を精練した後、精練後の織物幅に対して
3%以上の幅入れプレセットを行い、その後、染色、仕
上げ加工することを特徴とする染色仕上げ加工方法を提
供するものである。
Means for Solving the Problems As a result of intensive studies on the above problems, the present inventors have found that the purpose of solving the problems can be achieved by dyeing and finishing in a specific method. Reached. That is, in the present invention, after refining a woven fabric in which at least the weft is composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers, a width of 3% or more of the woven fabric width after the refining is preset, and then dyed and finished. And a dyeing and finishing method characterized by the following.

【0008】以下本発明について詳述する。本発明にお
いて、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート繊維とは、トリ
メチレンテレフタレート単位を主たる繰り返し単位とす
るポリエステル繊維をいい、トリメチレンテレフタレー
ト単位を約50モル%以上、好ましくは70モル%以
上、さらには80モル%以上、さらに好ましくは90モ
ル%以上のものをいう。従って、第三成分として他の酸
成分及び/又はグリコール成分の合計量が、約50モル
%以下、好ましくは30モル%以下、さらには20モル
%以下、さらに好ましくは10モル%以下の範囲で含有
されたポリトリメチレンテレフタレートを包含する。
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. In the present invention, the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber refers to a polyester fiber having a trimethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit, and the trimethylene terephthalate unit has about 50 mol% or more, preferably 70 mol% or more, and more preferably 80 mol%. Above, more preferably 90 mol% or more. Therefore, the total amount of the other acid component and / or glycol component as the third component is within a range of about 50 mol% or less, preferably 30 mol% or less, further 20 mol% or less, and more preferably 10 mol% or less. Polytrimethylene terephthalate contained.

【0009】ポリトリメチレンテレフタレートは、テレ
フタル酸又はその機能的誘導体と、トリメチレングリコ
ール又はその機能的誘導体とを、触媒の存在下で、適当
な反応条件下に重縮合せしめることにより製造される。
この製造過程において、適当な一種又は二種以上の第三
成分を添加して共重合ポリエステルとしてもよいし、
又、ポリエチレンテレフタレート等のポリトリメチレン
テレフタレート以外のポリエステル、ナイロンとポリト
リメチレンテレフタレートとを別個に製造した後、ブレ
ンドしたり、複合紡糸(鞘芯、サイドバイサイド等)し
てもよい。
[0009] Polytrimethylene terephthalate is produced by polycondensing terephthalic acid or a functional derivative thereof with trimethylene glycol or a functional derivative thereof in the presence of a catalyst under appropriate reaction conditions.
In this production process, an appropriate one or two or more third components may be added to form a copolymerized polyester,
Further, polyesters other than polytrimethylene terephthalate such as polyethylene terephthalate and the like, nylon and polytrimethylene terephthalate may be separately produced, then blended, or composite-spun (sheath core, side-by-side, etc.).

【0010】添加する第三成分としては、脂肪族ジカル
ボン酸(シュウ酸、アジピン酸等)、脂環族ジカルボン
酸(シクロヘキサンジカルボン酸等)、芳香族ジカルボ
ン酸(イソフタル酸、ソジウムスルホイソフタル酸
等)、脂肪族グリコール(エチレングリコール、1,2
−プロピレングリコール、テトラメチレングリコール
等)、脂環族グリコール(シクロヘキサンジメタノール
等)、芳香族を含む脂肪族グリコール(1,4−ビス
(β−ヒドロキシエトキシ)ベンゼン等)、ポリエーテ
ルグリコール(ポリエチレングリコール、ポリプロピレ
ングリコール等)、脂肪族オキシカルボン酸(ω−オキ
シカプロン酸等)、芳香族オキシカルボン酸(p−オキ
シ安息香酸等)等が挙げられる。又、1個又は3個以上
のエステル形成性官能基を有する化合物(安息香酸等又
はグリセリン等)も重合体が実質的に線状である範囲内
で使用出来る。さらに、二酸化チタン等の艶消剤、リン
酸等の安定剤、ヒドロキシベンゾフェノン誘導体等の紫
外線吸収剤、タルク等の結晶化核剤、アエロジル等の易
滑剤、ヒンダードフェノール誘導体等の抗酸化剤、難燃
剤、制電剤、顔料、蛍光増白剤、赤外線吸収剤、消泡剤
等を含有していてもよい。
The third components to be added include aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (oxalic acid, adipic acid, etc.), alicyclic dicarboxylic acids (cyclohexane dicarboxylic acid, etc.), and aromatic dicarboxylic acids (isophthalic acid, sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, etc.). ), Aliphatic glycols (ethylene glycol, 1,2
-Propylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, etc.), alicyclic glycols (cyclohexane dimethanol, etc.), aliphatic glycols containing aromatics (1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethoxy) benzene, etc.), polyether glycols (polyethylene glycol) , Polypropylene glycol and the like), aliphatic oxycarboxylic acids (ω-oxycaproic acid and the like), aromatic oxycarboxylic acids (p-oxybenzoic acid and the like) and the like. Compounds having one or more ester-forming functional groups (such as benzoic acid or glycerin) can also be used as long as the polymer is substantially linear. Further, matting agents such as titanium dioxide, stabilizers such as phosphoric acid, ultraviolet absorbers such as hydroxybenzophenone derivatives, crystallization nucleating agents such as talc, lubricating agents such as Aerosil, antioxidants such as hindered phenol derivatives, It may contain a flame retardant, an antistatic agent, a pigment, a fluorescent whitening agent, an infrared absorbing agent, an antifoaming agent, and the like.

【0011】本発明においてポリトリメチレンテレフタ
レート繊維の紡糸については、1500m/分程度の巻
取り速度で紡糸して未延伸糸を得た後、2〜3.5倍程
度で延撚する方法、紡糸−延撚工程を直結した直延法
(スピンドロー法)、巻取り速度5000m/分以上の
高速紡糸法(スピンテイクアップ法)の何れを採用して
も良い。又、繊維の形態は、長繊維でも短繊維でもよ
く、長さ方向に均一なものや太細のあるものでもよく、
断面においても丸型、三角、L型、T型、Y型、W型、
八葉型、偏平、ドッグボーン型等の多角形型、多葉型、
中空型や不定形なものでもよい。
In the present invention, the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is spun at a take-up speed of about 1500 m / min to obtain an undrawn yarn and then twisted at a rate of about 2 to 3.5 times. Any of a direct drawing method (spin draw method) in which the drawing and twisting step is directly connected and a high-speed spinning method (spin take-up method) with a winding speed of 5000 m / min or more may be adopted. In addition, the form of the fiber may be a long fiber or a short fiber, may be uniform in the length direction or may be thick and thin,
Round, triangular, L-shaped, T-shaped, Y-shaped, W-shaped,
Polygonal type such as eight leaf type, flat, dog bone type, multi leaf type,
It may be hollow or irregular.

【0012】さらに糸条の形態としては、リング紡績
糸、オープンエンド紡績糸等の紡績糸、単糸デニールが
0.1〜5デニール程度のマルチフィラメント原糸(極
細糸を含む)、甘撚糸〜強撚糸、混繊糸、仮撚糸(PO
Yの延伸仮撚糸を含む)、いわゆるタスラン加工糸等の
流体噴射加工糸等が挙げられる。尚、本発明の目的を損
なわない範囲内で通常30重量%以下の範囲内でウール
に代表される天然繊維等他の繊維を混紡(サイロスパン
やサイロフィル等)、交絡混繊(高収縮糸との異収縮混
繊糸等)、交撚、複合仮撚(伸度差仮撚等)、2フィー
ド流体噴射加工等の手段で混用してもよい。
Further, the form of the yarn may be a spun yarn such as a ring spun yarn or an open-end spun yarn, a multifilament raw yarn (including an ultrafine yarn) having a single yarn denier of about 0.1 to 5 denier, a sweet twisted yarn or the like. Strong twisted yarn, mixed yarn, false twisted yarn (PO
Y (including a drawn false twisted yarn), and a fluid jet processed yarn such as a so-called Taslan processed yarn. In addition, other fibers such as natural fibers such as wool are blended (silospan or silofil, etc.) and entangled blended fibers (with high shrinkage yarns) within a range of usually 30% by weight or less within a range not to impair the object of the present invention. May be mixed by means such as different shrinkage mixed fiber yarns, alternate twisting, composite false twisting (elongation difference false twisting, etc.), and two-feed fluid jetting.

【0013】本発明は、少なくとも緯糸がポリトリメチ
レンテレフタレート繊維からなる織物に関するものであ
り、緯糸がポリトリメチレンテレフタレート繊維である
場合に本発明の染色仕上げ加工方法が効果的である。経
糸は、織物の幅をコントロールする上で何ら影響を与え
るものではなく、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート繊維
であっても、他の合成繊維、半合成繊維、天然繊維等の
いかなる繊維であってもよく、これらの繊維を混紡(サ
イロスパンやサイロフィル等)、交絡混繊(高収縮糸と
の異収縮混繊糸等)、交撚、複合仮撚(伸度差仮撚
等)、2フィードタスラン加工等の手段で混用してもよ
いし、又、これらの繊維を経糸に一本〜数本交互に交織
してもよい。
The present invention relates to a woven fabric in which at least the weft is made of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber. When the weft is a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, the dyeing and finishing method of the present invention is effective. The warp has no effect on controlling the width of the woven fabric, and may be any fiber such as polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, other synthetic fiber, semi-synthetic fiber, or natural fiber, These fibers are blended (silospan, silofil, etc.), entangled blended fibers (different shrinkage mixed fibers with high shrinkage yarns, etc.), twisted, composite false twist (elongation difference false twist, etc.), 2-feed taslan processing, etc. Or one or several of these fibers may be alternately woven into the warp.

【0014】尚、本発明で用いる織物は、特に種類が限
定されるものではなく、平組織、綾組織、朱子組織、さ
らにはこれらの組織を組み合わせた組織であってもよ
い。又、織物製織用の織機も特に限定されるものではな
く、エアージェットルーム、ウォータージェットルー
ム、レピアルーム、グリッパールーム、有杼織機などを
用いて生産することができる。
The type of the woven fabric used in the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be a flat structure, a twill structure, a satin structure, or a structure combining these structures. Also, the loom for weaving the fabric is not particularly limited, and can be produced using an air jet loom, a water jet loom, a rapier loom, a gripper loom, a shuttle loom, or the like.

【0015】次に、本発明の染色仕上げ方法について説
明する。本発明の目的は、少なくとも緯糸がポリトリメ
チレンテレフタレート繊維で構成された織物を精練した
後、精練後の織物幅に対して3%以上の幅入れプレセッ
トを行い、その後染色、仕上げ加工を行う染色仕上げ加
工法を採用することによって初めて風合いがソフトで寸
法安定性に優れ、規格通りの織物幅の製品が得られる。
Next, the dyeing and finishing method of the present invention will be described. An object of the present invention is to refine a woven fabric in which at least the weft is composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, and then perform a preset of 3% or more of the width of the woven fabric after scouring, and then perform dyeing and finishing. Only by adopting the dyeing finishing method can a product with a soft texture, excellent dimensional stability and a woven fabric width according to the standard be obtained for the first time.

【0016】本発明は、精練後に特定のプレセットを行
うことを特徴とする染色仕上げ加工方法であり、精練に
より予め織物をリラックスさせ収縮させることによりプ
レセット時の収縮量と収縮応力を抑制し3%以上の幅入
れプレセットで幅方向の性量をコントロールすることが
出来る。精練条件は特に限定されないが50℃〜100
℃の温度で5分〜30分の時間で拡布状で連続的又はロ
ープ状でバッチ式に行うことが出来、通常この条件で幅
方向の収縮は2%〜20%であり、80℃〜100℃の
範囲で精練を行い予め収縮させておく方が好ましい。
The present invention is a dyeing and finishing method characterized by performing a specific pre-setting after scouring, in which the fabric is relaxed and shrunk in advance by scouring to suppress the amount of shrinkage and shrinkage stress during pre-setting. The width direction property can be controlled with a width insertion preset of 3% or more. The scouring conditions are not particularly limited, but are 50 ° C to 100 ° C.
At a temperature of 5 ° C. for 5 minutes to 30 minutes, it can be performed continuously in a spread form or in a batch form in a rope form, and under these conditions, the shrinkage in the width direction is usually 2% to 20%, and 80 ° C. to 100%. It is preferable to perform scouring in the range of ° C. to shrink in advance.

【0017】又、精練で用いられる助剤は生機に付着し
ているオイリング油剤や糊剤を除去出来る物であればよ
く公知の精練用界面活性剤や洗浄効果を高めるためアル
カリを使用してもよい。又、精練装置はオープンソーパ
ー、ウインス等の公知の装置を使用できる。精練後の乾
燥は、付着している水分を除去出来ればよく、通常、シ
リンダー乾燥機、ヒートセッター、ショートループドラ
イヤー等で行える。乾燥させる条件は、通常、100℃
〜140℃で5秒以上である。装置としては織物に張力
が加わりにくいショートループドライヤーがより風合い
を柔軟にする点で好ましい。また、精練して織物を常温
の状態で乾燥させても何ら問題ない。
The auxiliary agent used in the scouring may be any as long as it can remove oiling oils and sizing agents adhering to the greige machine, even if a known surfactant for scouring or an alkali is used to enhance the cleaning effect. Good. As the scouring device, a known device such as an open soaper or a wins can be used. Drying after scouring may be performed as long as adhering moisture can be removed, and can be usually performed by a cylinder dryer, a heat setter, a short loop dryer, or the like. The drying condition is usually 100 ° C.
140140 ° C. for 5 seconds or more. As a device, a short loop dryer in which tension is not easily applied to the woven fabric is preferable in terms of softening the texture. There is no problem even if the fabric is scoured and dried at room temperature.

【0018】本発明の効果を得るためには、プレセット
で精練後の織物幅に対して3%以上幅入れすることが特
に重要である。3%以上の幅入れでプレセットした場合
は、プレセット時の設定幅通りの織物となり、この時点
で織物の風合いは柔軟であり、染色後も織物の幅変化が
なく、仕上げ加工を有り幅で行うことにより、規格幅に
仕上がる。又、この織物は風合いが柔軟で寸法安定性に
優れた織物を得ることが出来る。
In order to obtain the effects of the present invention, it is particularly important that the width of the woven fabric after the scouring by the presetting is 3% or more. When the fabric is preset with a width of 3% or more, the fabric is set according to the preset width at the time of presetting. At this point, the texture of the fabric is flexible, and there is no change in the fabric width even after dyeing. By doing so, it is finished to the standard width. In addition, this fabric can provide a fabric having a soft hand and excellent dimensional stability.

【0019】しかし、幅入れを3%未満でプレセットし
た場合には、プレセット時の設定幅より織物の幅が狭く
なり、この時点で織物の風合いは硬くなる。その後の染
色・仕上げ加工を行っても風合いは変化せず柔軟な織物
は得られない。又、幅入れを3%未満でプレセットした
場合、染色工程でも更に収縮し幅が狭くなる。この織物
を規格幅に仕上げる為に仕上げ加工で規格幅まで幅出し
を行った場合は、仕上げ加工でもセットが効かず、規格
巾より幅が狭くなり、規格通りの織物を得ることが出来
ない。又更に、この織物は寸法安定性が悪く、風合いも
硬いものとなる。
However, when the width of the woven fabric is preset at less than 3%, the width of the woven fabric becomes narrower than the set width at the time of the presetting, and at this point, the texture of the woven fabric becomes hard. Even after dyeing and finishing, the texture does not change and a flexible fabric cannot be obtained. Further, when the width is set to less than 3%, the width is reduced further by shrinking even in the dyeing process. If the woven fabric is finished to the standard width by finishing processing in order to finish the woven fabric to the standard width, the set is not effective even in the finishing process, the width becomes narrower than the standard width, and the woven fabric according to the standard cannot be obtained. Further, the woven fabric has poor dimensional stability and hard texture.

【0020】幅入れの上限は精練後の織物の最大収縮率
値(織物の幅方向を固定せずフリーの状態でプレセット
と同処理を行った時の織物幅の収縮率値)であり、生機
性量や精練条件及びプレセット条件によって変化する値
で最大20%程度である。本発明のプレセットでの幅入
れとは精練した織物幅とプレセット装置の出口の設定幅
より下記式で表される。
The upper limit of the width insertion is the maximum shrinkage value of the woven fabric after scouring (the value of the shrinkage ratio of the woven fabric width when the same treatment as the preset is performed in a free state without fixing the width direction of the woven fabric). The value varies depending on the amount of greige, the scouring condition and the preset condition, and is a maximum of about 20%. The width of the preset in the present invention is expressed by the following formula based on the width of the refined fabric and the set width of the outlet of the preset device.

【0021】[0021]

【式1】 尚、ここで云う精練した織物の幅とは、精練して乾燥さ
せた織物を水平な台上に載置して、極力張力をかけずに
皺等をのばした状態の織物の幅の最小値をいい、また、
プレセット装置の出口の設定幅とは、プレセット装置の
熱処理ゾーンの出口の設定幅である。一般にプレセット
装置の幅設定は、プレセット装置の入り口、熱処理ゾー
ンの入り口並びに出口の3ケ所で可能であり、本発明で
は、熱処理ゾーンの出口の設定幅を所定の設定幅となす
ことにより本発明の目的が達成されるが、プレセット装
置内、例えば、熱処理ゾーンの入り口で精練した織物の
幅よりも幅出しすることは織物の風合い等を損なうので
避けた方がよい。
(Equation 1) The width of the scoured fabric referred to herein is the minimum width of the fabric in a state where the scoured and dried fabric is placed on a horizontal table and wrinkles are stretched without applying tension as much as possible. Good value,
The preset width of the outlet of the preset device is the preset width of the exit of the heat treatment zone of the preset device. Generally, the width of the presetting device can be set at three points: the entrance of the presetting device, the entrance of the heat treatment zone, and the exit. In the present invention, the width of the exit of the heat treatment zone is set to a predetermined setting width. The object of the present invention is achieved, but it is better to avoid over-width than the width of the scoured fabric in the presetting device, for example, at the entrance of the heat treatment zone, as this impairs the texture of the fabric.

【0022】本発明の好ましい態様としては、プレセッ
ト装置の入り口を本発明の設定幅とし、熱処理ゾーンの
入り口並びに出口共にプレセット装置の入り口と同じ設
定幅にして幅入れプレセットを行う(プレセット装置の
入り口で幅入れし、全て同じ設定幅)、あるいは、プレ
セット装置の入り口の設定幅を精練した織物の幅とし、
熱処理ゾーンの入り口と出口を本発明の設定幅にして幅
入れプレセットを行う(熱処理ゾーンの入口で幅入れ
し、熱処理ゾーンの入り口と出口が同じ設定幅)ことが
好ましい。なお、必要に応じて3ケ所の設定幅(幅入れ
率)を変化させてもよい。
In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the width of the presetting device is set to the set width according to the present invention, and both the entrance and the exit of the heat treatment zone are set to the same setting width as the entrance of the presetting device. Set the width at the entrance of the setting device, the same setting width for all), or set the width of the entrance of the presetting device to the width of the refined fabric,
It is preferable that the width and width of the heat treatment zone are set at the inlet and outlet of the heat treatment zone, and the width is preset at the width of the heat treatment zone. In addition, you may change the setting width of three places (width insertion rate) as needed.

【0023】本発明におけるプレセット条件は、140
℃〜200℃の乾熱で時間10秒以上行えばよく、特
に、160℃〜180℃の範囲で20秒〜90秒程度で
行うことが十分なセット効果を得る点で好ましい。特に
200℃を超える温度では風合いが硬くなることがあ
る。又、必要に応じて蒸熱(飽和蒸気や加熱蒸気)で行
ってもよく、100℃〜140℃の範囲で時間10秒以
上の条件で行えばよい。又、プレセットを行う装置とし
ては、熱処理と織物の幅をコントロールできる装置であ
れば特に限定されるものでなく、後工程での取り扱いに
便利な処理方法を選べばよい。具体的には、和歌山鉄工
社製、京都機械社製、あるいは平野金属社製等のヒート
セッターがあげられる。
The preset condition in the present invention is 140
The drying may be carried out for 10 seconds or more at a dry heat of 200 ° C. to 200 ° C. In particular, it is preferable to perform the drying in the range of 160 ° C. to 180 ° C. for about 20 seconds to 90 seconds in order to obtain a sufficient setting effect. In particular, at a temperature exceeding 200 ° C., the texture may become hard. If necessary, steaming (saturated steam or heated steam) may be performed, and the steaming may be performed in the range of 100 ° C. to 140 ° C. for 10 seconds or more. The apparatus for performing the presetting is not particularly limited as long as the apparatus can control the width of the heat treatment and the fabric, and a treatment method convenient for handling in a subsequent step may be selected. Specific examples include heat setters manufactured by Wakayama Iron Works, Kyoto Machinery, or Hirano Metals.

【0024】本発明における織物の染色仕上げ加工方法
については、精練後にプレセットを施した後は、従来の
ポリエチレンテレフタレート繊維の織物の染色加工方法
と何ら変わるものではない。一般的な染色仕上げ加工工
程は、染色−仕上げ加工(仕上げ加工剤の付与と仕上げ
セットを含む)という工程になる。特に本発明の仕上げ
加工の最も好ましい条件としては、この工程を有り幅で
セットすることである。仕上げ加工を有り幅で行うこと
で、風合いがソフトで寸法安定性に優れた織物が得られ
る。なお、必要に応じて幅入れの状態でセットしてもよ
いが、逆に幅出しすることは風合い等を損なう恐れがあ
るため好ましくない。
The method of dyeing and finishing a woven fabric in the present invention is not different from the conventional method of dyeing and processing a woven fabric of polyethylene terephthalate fibers after presetting after scouring. A general dyeing finishing process is a process of dyeing and finishing (including the application of a finishing agent and a finishing set). In particular, the most preferable condition of the finish processing of the present invention is that this step is set with a certain width. By performing the finishing process with a certain width, a fabric having a soft texture and excellent dimensional stability can be obtained. In addition, although it may be set in the state where it is widened as necessary, it is not preferable to widen it because it may impair the texture and the like.

【0025】本発明の織物の染色方法としては、一般的
なポリエチレンテレフタレート繊維織物の染色方法を用
いればよいが、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート繊維は
ポリエチレンテレフタレート繊維より約20℃低い温度
でも分散染料を吸尽しやすい特徴を持っており、濃色に
染色する場合でも、通常、110℃程度の低い染色温度
で十分な発色性が得られる。又、本発明では、プレセッ
ト後に漂白あるいはアルカリ減量などを行ってから染色
加工を実施しても何ら構わない。染色した後の仕上げ加
工においても本発明の目的を損なわなければ、通常繊維
加工に用いられる樹脂加工、柔軟加工、吸水加工、制電
加工、抗菌加工、撥水加工や酵素処理などの仕上げ加工
は適用できる。
As a method for dyeing the woven fabric of the present invention, a general method for dyeing a polyethylene terephthalate fiber woven fabric may be used, but the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber exhausts the disperse dye even at a temperature about 20 ° C. lower than the polyethylene terephthalate fiber. It has a characteristic that it is easy to perform, and even when dyeing a deep color, sufficient coloring properties can be usually obtained at a low dyeing temperature of about 110 ° C. In the present invention, the dyeing process may be carried out after bleaching or alkali reduction after presetting. If the purpose of the present invention is not impaired in the finishing process after dyeing, finishing processes such as resin processing, softening process, water absorbing process, antistatic process, antibacterial process, water repellent process and enzyme treatment which are usually used for textile processing are not performed. Applicable.

【0026】さらに、本発明のポリトリメチレンテレフ
タレート繊維以外の繊維が混用された織物の場合は、本
発明の効果を損なわなければ、その繊維を常法にて染色
してもかまわない。例えば、経糸に再生セルロース繊維
を用いた場合、通常行われている浸漬法、コールドパッ
ドバッチ等のパディング染色法、プリント染色法等から
適時選定して染色を行えばよい。次に本発明の織物を規
格した幅に仕上げるための織物の生機幅は、生機が精練
によって収縮した幅と、精練後の織物がプレセットで幅
入れされた幅を規格幅にプラスしたものを生機幅とすれ
ばよい。通常、規格幅に対して生機は5%から36%の
範囲で幅を広くしたものとなる。尚、規格幅とは染色仕
上げ加工後の織物に必要な幅を表し、使用される用途に
よって個々に設定される値である。例えば、一般的な裏
地用途での規格幅は、112cm(44インチ)、12
2cm(48インチ)、137cm(54インチ)、1
52cm(60インチ)である。以下、実施例にて本発
明を説明する。
Further, in the case of a woven fabric in which fibers other than the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber of the present invention are mixed, the fiber may be dyed by a conventional method as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. For example, when the regenerated cellulose fiber is used for the warp, it may be dyed by appropriately selecting from the usual immersion method, padding dyeing method such as cold pad batch, print dyeing method and the like. Next, the greige width of the woven fabric for finishing the woven fabric of the present invention to the standardized width is the width obtained by adding the width of the greige shrunk by scouring and the width of the woven fabric after presetting to the standard width. The greige width may be used. Normally, the greige is widened in the range of 5% to 36% with respect to the standard width. The standard width represents a width required for a woven fabric after dyeing and finishing, and is a value that is individually set according to a use to be used. For example, the standard width for typical backing applications is 112 cm (44 inches), 12 cm (12 inches).
2 cm (48 inches), 137 cm (54 inches), 1
52 cm (60 inches). Hereinafter, the present invention will be described with reference to examples.

【0027】[0027]

【発明の実施形態】実施例における織物の幅の測定方法
及び織物風合いと寸法安定性の評価方法は以下の通りで
ある。 (1)織物の幅 各工程後の織物を水平な台上に載置して、極力張力をか
けずに皺等をのばした状態の織物の幅を測定し(n=
3)、その最小値で表した。具体的には、緯糸に平行に
なるように定規をあて、織物の両端の経糸間の幅を測定
した。尚、織物の幅はcmで表し、小数点以下は切り捨
てとした。 (2)風合い 仕上げ加工後の織物について、風合いの程度を5段階に
分け、ハンドリングによる官能評価により、風合いの大
変ソフトな織物を○(5点)、風合いがかなりソフトな
織物を○〜△(4点)、風合いのソフトな織物を△(3
点)、風合いがやや硬い織物を△〜×(2点)、風合い
の硬い織物を×(1点)とし、5段階の点数を付けた。
評価は5人でランク付けしてその平均値で表した。評価
が3〜5点の範囲内は良好な風合いの織物とする。
DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The method for measuring the width of a woven fabric and the method for evaluating the texture and dimensional stability of a woven fabric in the examples are as follows. (1) Width of woven fabric The woven fabric after each step is placed on a horizontal table, and the width of the woven fabric in a state where wrinkles and the like are stretched without applying tension as much as possible is measured (n =
3), represented by its minimum value. Specifically, a ruler was applied so as to be parallel to the weft, and the width between the warps at both ends of the woven fabric was measured. In addition, the width of the woven fabric was expressed in cm, and the decimals were rounded down. (2) Texture For the woven fabric after finishing, the degree of the texture is divided into five stages, and the sensory evaluation by handling indicates that the woven fabric has a very soft texture (5 points), and the woven fabric has a very soft texture. 4 points), soft textured △ (3
Points), 織物 to × (2 points) for slightly hard textured fabrics, and × (1 point) for hard textured fabrics.
The evaluation was ranked by five persons and represented by the average value. When the evaluation is in the range of 3 to 5 points, the woven fabric has a good texture.

【0028】(3)寸法安定性 JIS−L−1042、H−3法(プレス法の中の蒸熱
加熱法)に従って評価し、織物の緯方向(幅方向)の収
縮率を算出した。収縮率が3%以内のものは寸法安定性
が良好なものとする。 <ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート繊維の製法>ηsp
/c=0.8のポリトリメチレンテレフタレートを紡糸
温度265℃、紡糸速度1200m/分で紡糸して未延
伸糸を得、次いで、ホットロール温度60℃、ホットプ
レート温度140℃、延伸倍率3倍、延伸速度800m
/分で延撚して、50d/24fと75d/36fの延
伸糸を得た。延伸糸の強度、伸度、弾性率並びに10%
伸長時の弾性回復率は、各々3.2g/d、46%、3
0g/d並びに98%であった。尚、10%伸長時の弾
性回復率は、試料に0.01g/dの初荷重をかけ、毎
分20%の伸びの一定割合の速度で伸ばし、伸度10%
になったところで今度は逆に同じ速度で収縮させて、応
力−歪曲線を画く。収縮中、応力が初荷重と等しい0.
01g/dにまで低下した時の残留伸度をLとすると、
次式で算出した値である。 10%伸長時の弾性回復率=〔(10−L)/10〕×
100(%)
(3) Dimensional stability The shrinkage in the weft direction (width direction) of the woven fabric was calculated according to JIS-L-1042, H-3 method (steam heating method in the pressing method). If the shrinkage is within 3%, the dimensional stability is good. <Method for producing polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber> ηsp
The polytrimethylene terephthalate of /c=0.8 is spun at a spinning temperature of 265 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1200 m / min to obtain an undrawn yarn, then a hot roll temperature of 60 ° C., a hot plate temperature of 140 ° C., and a draw ratio of 3 times. , Stretching speed 800m
/ Min, and the drawn yarns of 50d / 24f and 75d / 36f were obtained. Strength, elongation, elastic modulus and 10% of drawn yarn
The elastic recovery upon elongation was 3.2 g / d, 46%, 3
0 g / d and 98%. The elastic recovery at 10% elongation was determined by applying an initial load of 0.01 g / d to the sample and elongating it at a constant rate of 20% elongation per minute.
At this point, the material is contracted at the same speed in reverse, and a stress-strain curve is drawn. During shrinkage, the stress is equal to the initial load.
When the residual elongation at the time of decreasing to 01 g / d is L,
This is a value calculated by the following equation. Elastic recovery rate at 10% elongation = [(10−L) / 10] ×
100 (%)

【0029】ηsp/cは、ポリマ−を90℃でo−ク
ロロフェノ−ルに1g/デシリットルの濃度で溶解し、
その後、得られた溶液をオストワルド粘度管に移し35
℃で測定し、下記式により算出した。 ηsp/c=(T/T0−1)/C T:試料溶液の落下時間(秒) T0:溶剤の落下時間(秒) C:溶液濃度(g/デシリットル)
Ηsp / c is obtained by dissolving a polymer in o-chlorophenol at 90 ° C. at a concentration of 1 g / deciliter,
Thereafter, the resulting solution was transferred to an Ostwald viscous tube and transferred to
It measured at ° C and calculated by the following formula. ηsp / c = (T / T0-1) / C T: Fall time of sample solution (second) T0: Fall time of solvent (second) C: Solution concentration (g / deciliter)

【0030】[0030]

【実施例1、2】上記で得られた50d/24fのポリ
トリメチレンテレフタレート繊維を経糸に、75d/3
6fのポリトリメチレンテレフタレート繊維を緯糸に用
いて、経密度(筬密度)95本/インチ、緯密度(緯糸
打ち込み密度)75本/インチの平織物を津田駒工業
(株)製のエアージェットルームを用いて表1に記載の
生機幅に製織した。尚、生機幅の異なる生機は織機の通
し幅を変化させて作成した。次に、得られた生機を精練
−乾燥ープレセット−染色−仕上げ加工の一連の処理を
行った。精練は和歌山鉄工社製のオープンソーパー型連
続精練機を用い、苛性ソーダ5g/l、ノニオン系界面
活性剤2g/l、処理温度を100℃の条件で行った。
乾燥は平野金属社製シリンダー乾燥機を用い130℃で
シリンダーとの接触時間を10秒で行った。プレセット
は平野金属社製ヒートセッターを用い180℃×30秒
で、表1に記載の条件(ヒートセッター入り口の設定
幅。熱処理ゾーンの入り口と出口も同じ設定幅)で幅を
設定して行った。
Embodiments 1 and 2 The 50d / 24f polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber obtained above was used as a warp for 75d / 3.
Using a 6f polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber as the weft, a flat fabric having a warp density (reed density) of 95 yarns / inch and a weft density (weft driving density) of 75 yarns / inch is manufactured by Tsudakoma Kogyo Co., Ltd. And woven into the greige width shown in Table 1. The looms having different widths of the looms were prepared by changing the width of the loom. Next, the obtained greige was subjected to a series of processes of scouring, drying, presetting, dyeing, and finishing. The scouring was performed using an open soap type continuous scouring machine manufactured by Wakayama Iron Works Co., Ltd. under the conditions of 5 g / l of caustic soda, 2 g / l of nonionic surfactant, and a treatment temperature of 100 ° C.
Drying was performed using a cylinder dryer manufactured by Hirano Metal Co., Ltd. at 130 ° C. for a contact time of 10 seconds with the cylinder. The preset was carried out using a heat setter manufactured by Hirano Metal Co., Ltd. at 180 ° C. for 30 seconds under the conditions shown in Table 1 (set width of the heat setter entrance, and the same set width for the entrance and exit of the heat treatment zone). Was.

【0031】染色は日阪製作所社製サーキューラーを用
い、染料C.I DISPERSE BLUE 29l 1%owf 、ディスパーTL
1g/l (明成化学社製:タモール型)、pH調整剤とし
て酢酸0.5cc/l、温度110度×時間30分で行
った。又、仕上げ加工条件はパッドドライキュアー法に
従い、撥水剤NKガードFGN800が1wt%(日華
化学社製)、制電剤ミューロンAS222が1wt%
(ミヨシ油脂社製)の加工液に含浸・絞液はマングル圧
力5kg/cm2 で行い、乾燥(ドライ)100℃×6
0秒、仕上げセット(キュアー)を170℃×30秒で
規格巾の122cm(44インチ)に幅を設定して行っ
た。表1に実施例1、2の染色仕上げ加工工程での織物
の幅、並びに、得られた織物の風合いと寸法安定性の評
価結果を示す。これらの仕上げ加工は有り幅セットとな
り、得られた織物は規格幅の122cmに仕上がり、且
つ、風合いがソフトで、寸法安定性に優れていた。
The dyeing was carried out by using a circler manufactured by Hisaka Seisakusho Co., Ltd., dye CI DISPERSE BLUE 29l 1% owf, Disper TL
1 g / l (Tamol type, manufactured by Meisei Chemical Co., Ltd.), acetic acid 0.5 cc / l as a pH adjuster, temperature 110 ° C. × time 30 minutes. Finishing conditions were in accordance with the pad dry cure method, and the water repellent NK Guard FGN800 was 1 wt% (manufactured by Nichika Chemical Co., Ltd.), and the antistatic agent Mulon AS222 was 1 wt%.
The impregnated and squeezed liquid of the processing liquid (manufactured by Miyoshi Oil & Fats Co., Ltd.) is performed at a mangle pressure of 5 kg / cm 2 , and dried (dry) at 100 ° C.
The finishing set (curing) was performed at 170 ° C. for 30 seconds with the width set to a standard width of 122 cm (44 inches) for 0 second. Table 1 shows the width of the woven fabric in the dyeing and finishing process of Examples 1 and 2, and the evaluation results of the texture and dimensional stability of the obtained woven fabric. These finishing processes resulted in a width set, and the obtained woven fabric was finished to a standard width of 122 cm, had a soft texture and was excellent in dimensional stability.

【0032】[0032]

【実施例3】50d/24fのポリトリメチレンテレフ
タレート繊維を経糸に、75d/36fのポリトリメチ
レンテレフタレート繊維を緯糸に用いて、経密度(筬密
度)90本/インチ、緯密度(緯糸打ち込み密度)を7
0本/インチの綾織物を津田駒工業(株)製のエアージ
ェットルームを用いて表1に記載の生機幅に製織した。
次に、得られた生機を精練−乾燥ープレセット−染色−
仕上げ加工の一連の処理を行った。精練は和歌山鉄工社
製のオープンソーパー型連続精練機を用い、苛性ソーダ
5g/l、ノニオン系界面活性剤2g/l、処理温度を
60℃の条件で行った。乾燥は平野金属社製シリンダー
乾燥機を用い130℃でシリンダーとの接触時間を10
秒で行った。プレセットは平野金属社製ヒートセッター
用い190℃×30秒で、表1に記載の条件で幅を設定
して行った。
Example 3 Using 50d / 24f polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber as a warp and 75d / 36f polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber as a weft, warp density (reed density) 90 / inch, weft density (weft driving density) ) To 7
0 twill / inch twill fabric was woven into the greige width shown in Table 1 using an air jet loom manufactured by Tsudakoma Kogyo Co., Ltd.
Next, the obtained greige was refined-dried-preset-dyeing-
A series of finishing processes were performed. The scouring was performed using an open soap type continuous scouring machine manufactured by Wakayama Iron Works Co., Ltd. under the conditions of 5 g / l of caustic soda, 2 g / l of nonionic surfactant, and a treatment temperature of 60 ° C. Drying was performed using a Hirano Metal Co., Ltd. cylinder dryer at 130 ° C. for a contact time of 10 minutes with the cylinder.
Went in seconds. The presetting was performed using a heat setter manufactured by Hirano Metal Co., Ltd. at 190 ° C. for 30 seconds with the width set under the conditions shown in Table 1.

【0033】染色は日阪製作所社製サーキューラーを用
い、染料C.I DISPERSE BLUE 29l 1%owf 、ディスパーTL
1g/l (明成化学社製:タモール型)、PH調整剤とし
て酢酸0.5cc/l、温度130度×時間30分で行
った。又、仕上げ加工条件はパッドドライキュアー法に
従い、撥水剤NKガードFGN800が1wt%(日華
化学社製)、制電剤ミューロンAS222が1wt%
(ミヨシ油脂社製)の加工液に含浸・絞液はマングル圧
力5kg/cm2 で行い、乾燥(ドライ)を100℃×
60秒で、仕上げセット(キュアー)を180℃×30
秒で規格巾の122cm(44インチ)に幅を設定して
行った。表1に染色仕上げ加工工程での織物の幅、並び
に、得られた織物の風合いと寸法安定性の評価結果を示
す。仕上げ加工は有り幅セットとなり、得られた織物は
規格幅の122cmに仕上がり、且つ、風合いがソフト
で、寸法安定性に優れていた。
Dyeing was carried out using a circler manufactured by Hisaka Seisakusho Co., Ltd., dye CI DISPERSE BLUE 29l 1% owf, Disper TL
1 g / l (Tamor type, manufactured by Meisei Chemical Co., Ltd.), 0.5 cc / l acetic acid as a pH adjuster, temperature 130 ° C. × time 30 minutes. Finishing conditions were in accordance with the pad dry cure method, and the water repellent NK Guard FGN800 was 1 wt% (manufactured by Nichika Chemical Co., Ltd.), and the antistatic agent Mulon AS222 was 1 wt%.
The impregnating and squeezing solution of the working fluid (manufactured by Miyoshi Oil & Fats Co., Ltd.) is performed at a mangle pressure of 5 kg / cm 2 , and drying (drying) is performed at 100 ° C. ×
In 60 seconds, finish set (cure) at 180 ° C x 30
The width was set to a standard width of 122 cm (44 inches) in seconds. Table 1 shows the width of the woven fabric in the dyeing finishing process, and the evaluation results of the texture and dimensional stability of the obtained woven fabric. The finishing process was a width set, and the obtained woven fabric was finished to a standard width of 122 cm, had a soft texture and was excellent in dimensional stability.

【0034】[0034]

【実施例4】キュプラ(旭化成工業社製:ベンベルグ)
75d/54fを経糸に、75d/36fのポリトリメ
チレンテレフタレート繊維を緯糸に用いて、経密度80
本/インチ、緯密度を75本/インチの平織物を津田駒
工業(株)製のエアージェットルームを用いて表1に記
載の生機幅に製織した。次に、得られた生機を精練−乾
燥ープレセット−染色−仕上げ加工の一連の処理を行っ
た。精練は和歌山鉄工社製のオープンソーパー型連続精
練機を用い、苛性ソーダ5g/l、ノニオン系界面活性
剤2g/l、処理温度を100℃の条件で行った。乾燥
は平野金属社製シリンダー乾燥機を用い130℃でシリ
ンダーとの接触時間を10秒で行った。プレセットは平
野金属社製ヒートセッター用い180℃×30秒で、表
1に記載の条件で幅を設定して行った。染色は日阪製作
所社製サーキューラーを用い、ポリトリメチレンテレフ
タレート繊維サイドを染料C.I DISPERSE BLUE 29l 1%ow
f、ディスパーTL 1g/l (明成化学社製:タモール
型)、pH調整剤として酢酸0.5cc/l、温度11
0度×時間30分で行った後、キュプラ繊維サイドを染
料C.I REACTIVE 19 1%owf、硫酸ナトリウム50g/
l、炭酸ナトリウム15g/l、温度60℃×60分で
行った。又、仕上げ加工条件はパッドドライキュアー法
に従い、グリオキザール樹脂スミテックスレジンNS−
18が10wt%(住友化学社製)、触媒スミテックス
アクセレレーターが3wt%(住友化学)、撥水剤NK
ガードFGN800が1wt%(日華化学社製)、制電
剤ミューロンAS222が1wt%(ミヨシ油脂社製)
の加工液に含浸・絞液はマングル圧力5kg/cm2
行い、乾燥(ドライ)100℃×60秒、仕上げセット
(キュアー)を170℃×30秒で規格巾の122cm
(44インチ)に幅を設定して行った。表1に染色仕上
げ加工工程での織物の幅、並びに、得られた織物の風合
いと寸法安定性の評価結果を示す。仕上げ加工は有り幅
セットとなり、得られた織物は規格幅の122cmに仕
上がり、且つ、風合いがソフトで、寸法安定性に優れて
いた。
Embodiment 4 Cupra (Asahi Kasei Kogyo: Bemberg)
Using 75d / 54f for warp and 75d / 36f polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber for weft, warp density of 80
A plain woven fabric having a density of 75 pieces / inch and a weft density of 75 pieces / inch was woven into a greige width shown in Table 1 using an air jet loom manufactured by Tsudakoma Kogyo Co., Ltd. Next, the obtained greige was subjected to a series of processes of scouring, drying, presetting, dyeing, and finishing. The scouring was performed using an open soap type continuous scouring machine manufactured by Wakayama Iron Works Co., Ltd. under the conditions of 5 g / l of caustic soda, 2 g / l of nonionic surfactant, and a treatment temperature of 100 ° C. Drying was performed using a cylinder dryer manufactured by Hirano Metal Co., Ltd. at 130 ° C. for a contact time of 10 seconds with the cylinder. The presetting was performed using a heat setter manufactured by Hirano Metal Co., Ltd. at 180 ° C. for 30 seconds with the width set under the conditions shown in Table 1. Dyeing is performed using polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber side dye CI CIPERPER BLUE 29l 1% ow
f, Disper TL 1 g / l (Tamol type manufactured by Meisei Chemical Co., Ltd.), acetic acid 0.5 cc / l as a pH adjuster, temperature 11
After 30 minutes at 0 ° C. for 30 minutes, the cupra fiber side was dyed with CI REACTIVE 19 1% owf, sodium sulfate 50 g /
1, sodium carbonate 15 g / l, temperature 60 ° C. × 60 minutes. Finishing conditions are in accordance with the pad dry cure method, and Glyoxal resin Sumitex Resin NS-
18 was 10 wt% (Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.), the catalyst Sumitex accelerator was 3 wt% (Sumitomo Chemical), and the water repellent NK
1 wt% of Guard FGN800 (manufactured by Nichika Chemical Co., Ltd.) and 1 wt% of antistatic agent MURON AS222 (manufactured by Miyoshi Oil & Fat Co., Ltd.)
The impregnating and squeezing liquid is carried out at a mangle pressure of 5 kg / cm 2 , drying (drying) at 100 ° C. × 60 seconds, finishing set (curing) at 170 ° C. × 30 seconds and a standard width of 122 cm.
(44 inches) with the width set. Table 1 shows the width of the woven fabric in the dyeing finishing process, and the evaluation results of the texture and dimensional stability of the obtained woven fabric. The finishing process was a width set, and the obtained woven fabric was finished to a standard width of 122 cm, had a soft texture and was excellent in dimensional stability.

【0035】[0035]

【比較例1〜3】実施例1において、プレセット条件を
表1に記載の条件に変更した以外は、実施例1と同様に
行った。表1に比較例1〜3の染色仕上げ加工工程での
織物の幅、並びに、得られた織物の風合いと寸法安定性
の評価結果を示す。仕上げ加工は全て有り幅セットとな
り、得られた織物は実施例1と同じ生機を規格幅の12
2cmに仕上げたにも関わらず、風合いは硬いものであ
った。
Comparative Examples 1 to 3 The same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out except that the preset conditions were changed to those shown in Table 1. Table 1 shows the width of the woven fabric in the dyeing and finishing steps of Comparative Examples 1 to 3, and the evaluation results of the texture and the dimensional stability of the obtained woven fabric. All finishing processes are set with a width, and the obtained woven fabric is the same greige fabric as in Example 1 with a standard width of 12 mm.
Despite finishing to 2 cm, the texture was hard.

【0036】[0036]

【比較例4】実施例3において、生機幅とプレセット条
件を表1に記載の条件に変更した以外は、実施例3と同
様に行った。表1に染色仕上げ加工工程での織物の幅、
並びに、得られた織物の風合いと寸法安定性の評価結果
を示す。プレセットでは設定幅まで精練した織物の幅入
れが出来ず、染色後の織物幅も規格巾以上となり、仕上
げ加工で規格幅にセットを行ったが、設定値通りに織物
の幅が入らず、得られた織物は130cmと規格巾に仕
上がらなかった。
Comparative Example 4 The procedure of Example 3 was repeated, except that the greige width and the presetting conditions were changed to the conditions shown in Table 1. Table 1 shows the width of the fabric in the dyeing and finishing process.
In addition, the evaluation results of the texture and the dimensional stability of the obtained woven fabric are shown. In the presetting, the width of the woven fabric that was scoured to the set width could not be inserted, and the width of the woven fabric after dyeing became larger than the standard width, and was set to the standard width by finishing, but the width of the fabric did not enter according to the set value, The obtained woven fabric was not finished to a standard width of 130 cm.

【0037】[0037]

【比較例5】実施例1において、生機幅とプレセット条
件(設定幅)を表1に記載の条件に変更した以外は、実
施例1と同様に行った。表1に染色仕上げ加工工程での
織物の幅、並びに、得られた織物の風合いと寸法安定性
の評価結果を示す。仕上げ加工は7%の幅出セットとな
り、得られた織物は、織物幅が119cmと規格幅より
狭くなるばかりか、風合いが硬く、寸法安定性も劣るも
のであった。
Comparative Example 5 The same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out except that the greige width and the preset condition (set width) were changed to the conditions shown in Table 1. Table 1 shows the width of the woven fabric in the dyeing finishing process, and the evaluation results of the texture and dimensional stability of the obtained woven fabric. The finishing process was a 7% tentative set, and the obtained woven fabric had a woven fabric width of 119 cm, which was narrower than the standard width, and had a hard texture and poor dimensional stability.

【0038】[0038]

【表1】 [Table 1]

【0039】[0039]

【発明の効果】本発明は少なくとも緯糸にポリトリメチ
レンテレフタレート繊維で構成された織物の風合がソフ
トで寸法安定性に優れ、規格した織物幅に仕上げる加工
法を提供するものである。
According to the present invention, there is provided a processing method in which the texture of a woven fabric composed of at least a weft yarn made of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is soft, has excellent dimensional stability, and is finished to a standard woven fabric width.

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] 【請求項1】 少なくとも緯糸がポリトリメチレンテレ
フタレート繊維で構成された織物を精練した後、精練後
の織物幅に対して3%以上の幅入れプレセットを行い、
その後染色、仕上げ加工することを特徴とする染色仕上
げ加工方法。
Claims 1. After scouring a woven fabric in which at least the weft is composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, a width insertion preset of 3% or more with respect to the woven fabric width is performed.
A dyeing / finishing method characterized by dyeing and finishing.
JP32523198A 1998-11-16 1998-11-16 Fabric dyeing and finishing method Expired - Fee Related JP4357017B2 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP32523198A JP4357017B2 (en) 1998-11-16 1998-11-16 Fabric dyeing and finishing method

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Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP32523198A JP4357017B2 (en) 1998-11-16 1998-11-16 Fabric dyeing and finishing method

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Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2002031241A1 (en) * 2000-10-06 2002-04-18 Asahi Kasei Kabushiki Kaisha Spun yarn
KR100490192B1 (en) * 2001-09-10 2005-05-17 한국섬유개발연구원 Method for producing polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber with an improved dyeing property
US7921677B2 (en) 2006-05-15 2011-04-12 Honda Motor Co., Ltd. Vehicular upholstery polypropyleneterephthalate fiber fabric and method for producing of fabric
US8207071B2 (en) 2006-05-15 2012-06-26 Honda Motor Co., Ltd. Vehicular upholstery polypropyleneterephthalate fiber woven fabric
CN115110312A (en) * 2022-08-24 2022-09-27 盛虹集团有限公司 Processing method of bio-based PTT fiber fabric capable of serving as base fabric for trademark cloth

Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2002031241A1 (en) * 2000-10-06 2002-04-18 Asahi Kasei Kabushiki Kaisha Spun yarn
US6815060B2 (en) 2000-10-06 2004-11-09 Asahi Kasei Kabushiki Kaisha Spun yarn
KR100490192B1 (en) * 2001-09-10 2005-05-17 한국섬유개발연구원 Method for producing polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber with an improved dyeing property
US7921677B2 (en) 2006-05-15 2011-04-12 Honda Motor Co., Ltd. Vehicular upholstery polypropyleneterephthalate fiber fabric and method for producing of fabric
US8207071B2 (en) 2006-05-15 2012-06-26 Honda Motor Co., Ltd. Vehicular upholstery polypropyleneterephthalate fiber woven fabric
CN115110312A (en) * 2022-08-24 2022-09-27 盛虹集团有限公司 Processing method of bio-based PTT fiber fabric capable of serving as base fabric for trademark cloth
CN115110312B (en) * 2022-08-24 2022-11-25 盛虹集团有限公司 Processing method of bio-based PTT fiber fabric capable of serving as base fabric for trademark cloth

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