JP2985887B1 - Soft polyester fiber and woven / knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

An object of the present invention is to provide a polyester fiber excellent in swelling, softness and resilience by using a soft and supple soft polyester fiber which is excellent in heat resistance and which has been difficult to achieve in the past. The above object is achieved by a soft polyester fiber which simultaneously satisfies the following characteristics. (1) An X-shaped pattern is shown by small-angle X-ray scattering. (2) 0 <shrinkage stress / structural integrity parameter ≦ 0.50 where structural integrity parameter> 0

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a soft polyester fiber which is excellent in swelling, softness and resilience and can provide a woven or knitted fabric with less stain spots.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Polyester has various excellent properties including mechanical properties, and is therefore used in various fields including clothing. Conventionally, an undrawn yarn spun at a spinning speed of about 1000 m / min was first wound up, and then subjected to a drawing heat treatment by a drawing machine to obtain a drawn yarn. Next, the spinning speed
So-called highly oriented undrawn yarn (hereinafter abbreviated as POY), which has been raised to about 3000 m / min, has come to be used. In recent years, a high-speed spinning method in which the spinning speed is increased to about 6000 m / min to improve productivity has become popular. Since the high-speed spun fiber is automatically stretched in the spinning line and is oriented and crystallized, it can be used as a drawn yarn only by spinning. Also, a direct spinning drawing method in which drawing heat treatment is performed without winding the fiber spun at a low spinning speed without being once wound, has been widely adopted.

[0003] The characteristics of these fibers are shown in Table 2. The drawn yarn (including directly drawn spun yarn) and the high-speed spun fiber are oriented and crystallized, and have high strength, high initial tensile resistance, and dimensional stability. Excellent in nature. On the other hand, POY is characterized by being non-crystalline because orientation crystallization has not progressed, having a low initial tensile resistance, and being flexible.

[0004] In clothing applications, the quality has been improved by using natural fibers as a target. In particular, as a means for realizing a swelling and soft texture, the above fibers are combined to give a yarn length difference. Cilia are widely used.

[0005] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 1-124650 discloses a mixed fiber in which a fiber having a fineness of birefringence of about 0.035 (so-called POY) and a high-speed spun fiber having a large fineness are aligned, and then simultaneously drawn and false-twisted. Yarn has been proposed. At this time, since the draw ratio is adjusted to the high-speed spun fiber serving as the core yarn, the core yarn has a high initial tensile resistance and a large elastic recovery. On the other hand, POY, which is a sheath yarn, is insufficiently stretched, resulting in a low initial tensile resistance and a low elastic recovery. For this reason,
As described in JP-A-140130, a yarn length difference due to a difference in elastic recovery rate is produced, and combined with a difference in fineness, a mixed fiber having excellent softness and tightness can be obtained. However, since the POY is substantially an amorphous fiber, the heat resistance during yarn processing is poor and the yarn breaks frequently, or the fabric surface is roughened due to shrinkage spots caused by incomplete stretching of the POY, or the spots are stained. There were problems in operability and quality, such as the surface of the fabric becoming dirty.

JP-A-3-279428 and the like disclose a shrinkage-differential mixed yarn comprising a directly drawn spun yarn and a high-speed spun fiber having a lower shrinkage. This is because high-speed spun fibers have high crystallinity during the spinning process, and thus have good heat resistance. However, the initial tensile resistance of the high-speed spun fiber that becomes the sheath yarn is as high as 60 to 75 cN / dtex, and since the structural integrity parameter is almost 0 or a negative value, it lacks flexibility and the texture is hardened. In addition, the feeling of resilience is poor.

[0007] As described above, when POY is used for the sheath yarn of the mixed fiber, since it is an amorphous fiber, dimensional stability and heat resistance are poor, operability and quality are problematic, and high-speed spinning with high crystallinity is caused. The use of fibers causes a reduction in texture due to lack of flexibility. Therefore, a fiber that has been oriented and crystallized like a high-speed spun fiber while maintaining softness and flexibility like POY has been desired.

[0008]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a soft and flexible soft polyester fiber which is excellent in heat resistance and provides a woven or knitted fabric which is excellent in swelling, softness and resilience and has less stain. Things.

[0009]

The above object is achieved by a soft polyester fiber which simultaneously satisfies the following characteristics.

(1) An X-shaped pattern is shown by small-angle X-ray scattering. (2) 0 <shrinkage stress / structural integrity parameter ≦ 0.50 where structural integrity parameter> 0

[0011]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention provides a soft polyester fiber in which oriented crystallization has progressed while maintaining softness and flexibility.

The polyester referred to in the present invention includes polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PET), polybutylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PBT) and the like. PET is the most general and preferred. Further, a part of the diol component and a part of the acid component may be substituted with other copolymerizable components in a range of 15 mol% or less.
They may also contain additives such as other polymers, matting agents, flame retardants, antistatic agents, pigments and the like. Hereinafter, P
ET will be described as an example.

In the present invention, it is essential that the small-angle X-ray scattering pattern shows an X-shaped pattern. This X-shaped pattern (FIG. 2) is described in, for example, Jpn J. Soc.
As described above, an ordered structure in which crystals are regularly arranged has been proposed as a structure corresponding to this pattern, which is peculiar to a high-speed spun fiber having a high degree of crystallinity (FIG. 3). FIG. 3 illustrates this ordered structure. In FIG. 3, rectangles indicate crystal regions, which indicate that they are regularly arranged in a checkered pattern. The amorphous region exists between the crystal regions. That is, the X-shaped pattern indicates that crystallization has advanced to a high degree and an ordered structure has been formed. For this reason, fibers having an X-shaped pattern have good dimensional stability and heat resistance due to the progress of crystallization.

Further, an appropriate bending rigidity is obtained by the progress of crystallization, and the resilience and resilience are improved as compared with POY. Further, from the viewpoint of increasing the crystallinity and improving the process stability during yarn processing such as interlacing blending or false twisting, the yarn density before yarn processing or fabric formation is 1.350 g / cm ³ or more. Is preferred.
More preferably 1.355 g / cm ³ , still more preferably 1.360 g / c
m ³ or more.

On the other hand, softness and flexibility can be evaluated by “shrinkage stress / structural integrity parameter”.
0 <shrinkage stress / structural integrity parameter ≦ 0.50 is required. The lower the shrinkage stress, the more the shrinkage in the woven fabric is suppressed, and the softer and more flexible properties are exhibited. The structural integrity parameter is related to the degree of tensile resistance under moist heat, and the larger the value, the smaller the tensile resistance and the softer the property. That is, the "shrinkage stress / structural integrity parameter" indicates the property of the yarn in the treatment of the fabric such as scouring or heat setting, and the smaller the value, the softer the fabric. Shrinkage stress /
The structural integrity parameter value is preferably 0.04 to 0.30, more preferably 0.04 to 0.20, and still more preferably 0.04 to 0.12.
It is. However, when the structural integrity parameter is less than 0, the apparent shrinkage stress / structure integrity parameter value is <0.
And the value of the shrinkage stress / structural integrity parameter is small, but this is only computationally small and is not intended by the present invention. In fact, the structural integrity parameter is 0
If the amount is less than the above, the tensile resistance of the yarn becomes large, and conversely, the fabric becomes hard.

On the other hand, if the structural integrity parameter is too large, creep is likely to occur and dimensional stability is reduced.
It is preferably in the range of 05 to 0.40. More preferably
It is 0.05 to 0.30.

Further, in order to obtain softness and flexibility, the initial tensile resistance is preferably 45 cN / dtex or less. More preferably, it is 30 cN / dtex or less. And while being crystallized, by using fibers with such a low initial tensile resistance, it is possible to obtain soft polyester fibers that have a highly balanced softness and resilience, which are unprecedented. It is possible to obtain a fabric which is rich in feeling and excellent in drape property.

Furthermore, in order to suppress the roughening of the surface of the fabric and the unevenness of the dye due to wrinkles and shrinkage spots, and to significantly improve the quality of the fabric, the standard deviation of the shrinkage ratio of the soft polyester fiber of the present invention is 0.40 or less. Preferably, there is. Contraction spots are FTA
In the continuous measurement of the boiling water shrinkage in the yarn longitudinal direction, the standard deviation (σ) of the shrinkage can be evaluated. The standard deviation of the shrinkage is more preferably 0.25 or less, and further preferably 0.15 or less.

The cross-sectional shape of the monofilament of the soft polyester fiber of the present invention is not particularly limited, and not only a round cross-section but also a polygonal cross-section such as a triangle, a flat cross-section, a hollow cross-section and the like can be adopted. . Also, the single-fiber fineness is not particularly limited, and can be employed from a fineness of about 0.1 dtex to a thick fineness of about 5 dtex.

Further, the soft polyester fiber of the present invention can be used by being entangled and mixed with a shrinkable polyester fiber having a boiling water shrinkage of 10% or more. As a result, a swelling feeling can be added to the above characteristics, and a soft feeling and a repulsive feeling can be improved. It is preferable that the shrinkage rate of the shrinkable polyester fiber is 15% or more, because the shrinkage polyester fiber is more excellent in swelling. Further, when the shrinkable polyester fiber is further subjected to dry heat treatment at 160 ° C. after boiling water shrinkage, when the boiling water shrinkage ratio ≧ dry heat shrinkage ratio, the woven fabric restraint is loosened in the dry heat set after scouring, and the soft feeling is further improved. It is preferable because a fabric excellent in resilience can be obtained. When a fiber having excellent stretchability such as PBT is used as the shrinkable polyester fiber,
It is also different from PET and has a soft and excellent resilience feeling, which is preferable.

The soft polyester fiber of the present invention can be obtained, for example, by the following production method. In other words, POY with a structural integrity parameter of about 0.60 spun at a spinning speed of about 3000 m / min is stretched at an extremely low magnification of about 1.1 times, and is further heat-set at about 130 ° C to promote sufficient crystallization. The inventive soft polyester fibers can be obtained. At this time, it is preferable to set the draw ratio much lower than usual so as not to make the contraction stress / structural integrity parameter value and the initial tensile resistance excessively high.
Further, it is preferable to set the heat setting temperature high so that crystallization proceeds sufficiently. In addition, the soft polyester fiber of the present invention is not limited to any production method, and a relaxation heat treatment or the like can be used as needed.

The fiber obtained by the present invention is suitably used for clothing such as blouses, suits, pants and coats.

[0023]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be described below in detail with reference to embodiments. In addition, the measuring method in the Example used the following method.

A. Intrinsic viscosity [η] Measured in orthochlorophenol at 25 ° C.

B. Small-angle X-ray pattern A scattering pattern image was taken under the following conditions. X-ray generator: RU-200 manufactured by Rigaku Corporation X-ray source: Cu-Kα ray (using Ni filter) Output: 50kV-150mA Slit system: 0.5mmφ Camera radius: 400mm Exposure time: 120 minutes Film: Kodak DEF-5 If the scattering intensity is low, adjust the exposure time etc. as necessary.

C. Shrinkage stress Thermal stress meter TYPE K manufactured by Kanebo Engineering
The measurement was performed using E-2S. The sample was adjusted to a loop of 10 cm, and the sample was stretched with a tension of (decitex × 0.9 × 1/30) gf. Then, the heating rate was 150 ° C./min.

D. Structural integrity parameter As described in JP-A-48-35112, 0.18 cN / dtex (0.2
gf / d) The treatment was carried out for 2 minutes in boiling water under a load, and calculated from the dimensional change of the yarn before and after the treatment by the following formula. Structural integrity parameter = [(L ₁ −L ₀ ) / L ₀ )] L ₀ : The original length of the shackle measured under an initial load of 0.18 cN / dtex (0.2 gf / d). L ₁ : L Treat the shackles that measured ₀ in boiling water under a load of 0.18 cN / dtex (0.2 gf / d) for 2 minutes, and after air drying, initial load of 0.18 cN
Shackle length under / dtex (0.2gf / d)

E. Density As described in ASTM D1505-63T, the measurement was performed at 25 ° C. using a density gradient tube using an aqueous sodium bromide solution.

F. Initial tensile resistance Measured according to the method described in JIS standard L1013. The initial sample length was 50 mm, and the pulling speed was 400 mm / min.

G. Boiling water shrinkage and dry heat shrinkage Boiling water shrinkage (%) = [(L ₀ ′ −L ₁ ′) / L ₀ ′) × 10
0 Dry heat shrinkage (%) = [(L ₀ ′ −L ₂ ′) / L ₀ ′)] × 100 L ₀ ′: The original length of the shackle measured under an initial load of 0.09 cN / dtex. L ₁ ′: The shackles for which L ₀ ′ has been measured are treated in boiling water for 15 minutes in a substantially load-free state, and after air drying, the initial load is 0.09 cN / dtex.
Skein length L ₂ under ': L _1' the skein was measured substantially for 15 minutes in dry heat 160 ° C. in the form of a load-free, dried in air initial load 0.09cN / dtex
Shackle length below

H. Standard deviation of boiling water shrinkage in the yarn longitudinal direction Using a FTA-500 manufactured by Toray Engineering Co., Ltd., continuous measurement of the boiling water shrinkage in the yarn longitudinal direction of the soft polyester fiber was performed. At this time, the yarn supply speed is 20m / min, and the running yarn stress is 0.
The mixture was passed through a wet heat treatment apparatus heated to 100 ° C. with a length of 15.5 cm at 01 cN / dtex. Then, the measurement was performed for 10 minutes, and the standard deviation of the shrinkage rate was obtained. At this time, the raw shrinkage was taken in as point data for every 3.3 cm of the measured yarn length, and these points were combined and averaged to obtain one data. Then we collected 1000 data and calculated the standard deviation. In this way, the influence of the noise on the measured value was suppressed.

I. Dyed spots The cloth was dyed by a conventional method, and the dyed spots were evaluated by sensory evaluation. At this time, scoring was performed with no dyeing spot as 0. A score of 15 or less was accepted.

Example 1 Homo PET having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.63 (does not contain titanium oxide)
Was discharged from a round-hole die having 24 holes at a spinning temperature of 285 ° C., and a 62 dtex, 24-filament POY was wound at a spinning speed of 3000 m / min.

The POY is stretched at a first hot roller temperature of 85 ° C. and a second hot roller temperature of 127 ° C. at a stretching ratio (second hot roller peripheral speed / first hot roller peripheral speed) = 1.10 times. Was. This drawn yarn showed an X-shaped pattern as shown in FIG. 1 by small-angle X-ray scattering. The shrinkage stress / structural integrity parameter was 0.08, and the structural integrity parameter was 0.24. The density was 1.360 g / cm ³ and the initial tensile resistance was 25 cN / dtex.

This soft polyester fiber is mixed with 33 dtex and 12 filament shrinkage homopolyester fiber having a boiling water shrinkage of 21% and a dry heat shrinkage of 19% while air-entangled, and mixed with 89 dtex and 36 filament. I got To this 30
A 0-turn / m S twist was applied, and plain weave was woven using the warp and the weft. This was subjected to a 10% alkali weight reduction by a conventional method, followed by dyeing and dry heat setting. In the obtained fabric, the soft polyester fiber was raised on the surface of the fabric, was soft, had a swelling feeling, and was excellent in resilience. Further, since no shrinkage spots were generated, no wrinkles or stain spots were generated on the surface of the cloth, and a high-quality cloth having 10 spots of dyeing was obtained.

The structural integrity parameter of the POY wound here is 0.62, and the contraction stress / structural integrity parameter is
Although it was 0.07, the density was 1.338 g / cm ³ , and in the small-angle X-ray scattering, only central scattering was observed, and no X-shaped pattern was observed (FIG. 4). The standard deviation of the shrinkage was 1.50.

Examples 2 to 5 The POY spun in Example 1 was stretched in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the stretching conditions were changed as shown in Table 1, and a software having a small-angle X-ray scattering pattern as shown in FIG. Polyester fibers were obtained (Table 1). These soft polyester fibers were subjected to blending, fabric formation, alkali reduction, dyeing, and dry heat setting under the same conditions as in Example 1. In any of the obtained fabrics, soft polyester fibers emerged on the fabric surface,
It was soft, swelling, and also excellent in resilience. Further, since no shrinkage spots were generated, wrinkles and stain spots did not occur on the fabric surface, and the fabric was of high quality.

Comparative Example 1 Stretching was carried out under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the stretching ratio was 1.85 times. At this time, the structural integrity parameter was <0, and a soft polyester fiber such as POY was not obtained.

Then, these fibers and the shrinkable homopolyester fibers used in Example 1 were mixed while air-entangled to obtain a mixed fiber of 67 dtex and 36 filaments. This was S-twisted at 300 turns / m, and plain weave was woven using warp and weft. This was subjected to a 10% alkali weight reduction by a conventional method, followed by dyeing and dry heat setting. The obtained fabric had a texture lacking a feeling of swelling, softness, and resilience.

Comparative Example 2 Stretching was carried out under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the stretching ratio was 1.35 times. At this time, the shrinkage stress / structural integrity parameter was 0.88, and a soft polyester fiber was not obtained.

Then, these fibers and the shrinkable homopolyester fibers used in Example 1 were mixed while air-entangled to obtain mixed yarns of 79 dtex and 36 filaments. This was S-twisted at 300 turns / m, and plain weave was woven using warp and weft. This was subjected to a 10% alkali weight reduction by a conventional method, followed by dyeing and dry heat setting. The obtained fabric had a texture lacking a feeling of swelling, softness, and resilience.

Example 6 The soft polyester fiber produced in Example 1 and Example 1
The shrinkable homopolyester fiber used in the above was mixed while air-entangled to obtain a mixed yarn of 89 dtex and 36 filaments. This was subjected to false twisting at a hot plate temperature of 210 ° C. in a conventional manner. At this time, no process troubles such as yarn breakage occurred. The processed yarn was subjected to S-twisting at 300 turns / m, and plain weave was woven using the warp and the weft. This was subjected to a 10% alkali weight reduction by a conventional method, followed by dyeing and dry heat setting. In the obtained fabric, the soft polyester fiber was raised on the surface of the fabric, was soft, had a swelling feeling, and was excellent in resilience. Further, since no shrinkage spots were generated, no wrinkles or stain spots were generated on the surface of the cloth, and a high-quality cloth having 10 spots of dyeing was obtained.

Comparative Example 3 POY spun in Example 1 and the shrinkable homopolyester fiber used in Example 1 were mixed while air-entangled.
A mixed fiber of dtex and 36 filaments was obtained. This was subjected to false twisting at a hot plate temperature of 210 ° C according to a conventional method.
OY side thread breakage occurred frequently. 300 turns /
The S weave of m was applied, and plain weave was woven using the warp and the weft. This was subjected to a 10% alkali weight reduction by a conventional method, followed by dyeing and dry heat setting. Although the obtained fabric had some degree of swelling and softness, wrinkles and dyeing spots caused by shrinkage spots on the POY side occurred frequently, and only 100 spots of dyeing spots and a low quality cloth were obtained. In the mixed fiber false twisted yarn, the standard deviation of the shrinkage rate of the POY side false twisted yarn is 1.0.
It was 0.

Comparative Example 4 Spinning was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the spinning speed was changed to 6000 m / min to obtain a 55 dtex high-speed spun fiber. Although an X-shaped pattern was observed by small-angle X-ray scattering, the structural integrity parameter was <0, the initial tensile resistance was 71 cN / dtex, and the soft polyester fiber of the present invention was not obtained. This and the shrinkable homopolyester fiber used in Example 1 were mixed while air-entangled to obtain a mixed fiber of 88 dtex and 36 filaments. This was S-twisted at 300 turns / m, and plain weave was woven using warp and weft. In addition, 10
After the alkali weight was reduced, dyeing and dry heat setting were performed. The resulting fabric had a texture with remaining hardness.

[0045]

[Table 1]

[Table 2]

[0046]

EFFECT OF THE INVENTION By using the soft polyester fiber of the present invention, it is possible to provide a woven or knitted fabric which has improved operability, furthermore has an excellent swelling feeling, soft feeling and repulsion feeling, and has less stain spots.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a view showing a small-angle X-ray scattering pattern of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a view showing a small-angle X-ray scattering pattern of a high-speed spun fiber.

FIG. 3 is a view showing an ordered structure of a high-speed spun fiber.

FIG. 4 is a diagram showing a small-angle X-ray scattering pattern of POY.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuation of the front page (56) References JP-A-54-30924 (JP, A) JP-A-56-123409 (JP, A) JP-A-8-100347 (JP, A) JP-A-8-108 158152 (JP, A) JP-A-8-226039 (JP, A) JP-A-54-134119 (JP, A) Journal of the Textile Society of Japan Vol. 33, T-208-214 (1977) (58) Fields investigated (Int. Cl. ⁶ , DB name) D01F 6/62 301 D02G 1/01 D02G 1/18 D02G 3/04

Claims (5)

(57) [Claims] 1. A soft polyester fiber satisfying the following properties at the same time. (1) An X-shaped pattern is shown by small-angle X-ray scattering. (2) 0 <shrinkage stress / structural integrity parameter ≦ 0.50 where structural integrity parameter> 0 2. The soft polyester fiber according to claim 1, wherein the structural integrity parameter is 0.05 to 0.40. 3. The standard deviation of the boiling water shrinkage in the longitudinal direction of the yarn is 0.
3. The soft polyester fiber according to claim 1, wherein the soft polyester fiber is 40 or less. 4. A soft polyester mixed yarn, wherein the soft polyester fiber according to any one of claims 1 to 3 is entangled and mixed with a polyester fiber having a boiling water shrinkage of 10% or more. . 5. A woven or knitted fabric using the soft polyester fiber according to any one of claims 1 to 4.