FR3143344A1 - Composition comprising a UV filter, a suitably selected lipophilic polymer, and a carrageenan - Google Patents

Abstract

TITLE: Composition comprising a UV filter, a suitably selected lipophilic polymer, and a carrageenan The present invention relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one UV filter, at least one suitably selected lipophilic polymer, and at least one carrageenan, and the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological, in particular for the care, treatment of keratin materials, and in particular for the care, protection and/or makeup of the skin of the body or face, or for the care of hair.

Description

Composition comprising a UV filter, a suitably selected lipophilic polymer, and a carrageenan

The present invention relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one UV filter, at least one suitably selected lipophilic polymer, and at least one carrageenan, and the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for the care, treatment of keratin materials, and in particular for the care, protection and/or makeup of the skin of the body or face, or for hair care.

To date, a wide variety of photoprotective compositions are already known to protect keratin materials, and more particularly the skin, against the harmful effects induced by UVA and/or UVB radiation. For the most part, they contain a combination of several organic or inorganic UV filters, carried in an oily phase and/or in an aqueous phase as an anti-UV active agent and are generally offered in a galenic form of the emulsion or gel type.

It is known that radiation with wavelengths between 280 nm and 400 nm allows the tanning of human epidermis and that radiation with wavelengths between 280 and 320 nm, known as UV-B rays, harms the development of natural tanning. Exposure is also likely to induce an alteration of the biomechanical properties of the epidermis which results in the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature aging of the skin.

It is also known that UV-A rays with wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm penetrate deeper into the skin than UV-B rays. UV-A rays cause immediate and persistent browning of the skin. Daily exposure to UVA rays, even for short periods, under normal conditions can lead to a degradation of collagen and elastin fibres which results in a change in the micro-relief of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and irregular pigmentation (brown spots, uneven skin tone).

Protection against UVA and UVB radiation is therefore necessary. An effective photoprotection product must protect against both UVA and UVB radiation.

Many photoprotective compositions have been proposed to date to remedy the effects induced by UVA and/or UVB radiation. They generally contain organic UV filters and/or inorganic UV filters which function according to their own chemical nature and according to their own properties by absorption, reflection, or diffusion of UV radiation. They generally contain mixtures of fat-soluble organic filters and/or water-soluble UV filters associated with metal oxide pigments such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.

Many cosmetic compositions intended to limit the darkening of the skin, improve the color and homogeneity of the complexion have been proposed to date. It is well known in the field of sunscreen products that such compositions can be obtained by using UV filters, and in particular UVB filters. Some compositions may also contain UVA filters. This filtering system must cover UVB protection in order to limit and control the neo-synthesis of melanin promoting overall pigmentation, but must also cover UVA protection in order to limit and control the oxidation of already existing melanin leading to the darkening of the skin color.

The conditions of use of a sunscreen composition are extremely varied and depend on the activities practiced by the consumer. Use on the beach is very frequent, which leads to applications on both dry and wet skin, especially after swimming.

However, on wet skin, active substances, such as UV filters, tend to dilute, altering their skin protection properties.

Among the different textures of existing sunscreen compositions, the majority of them are difficult to apply on wet skin. Indeed, spreading the composition on wet skin can induce a significant whitening effect, which is not very pleasant for the consumer, and an inhomogeneity of the protective film, which impacts the level of skin protection. Obtaining a homogeneous and transparent appearance then requires a very long massage of the composition on the skin.

Thus, there is a real need to provide a sunscreen composition that does not have the drawbacks mentioned above, that is to say a sunscreen composition that is stable, compatible with application to both dry and wet skin, and whose in vivo sun protection efficacy (SPF) level is high, whether the product is applied to dry or wet skin.

The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that a composition comprising one or more UV filters, one or more suitably selected lipophilic polymers, and one or more polysaccharides chosen from carrageenans, makes it possible to achieve the objectives set out above; in particular to obtain a filtering composition having excellent compatibility with wet skin, which allows application to both dry and wet skin, and which leads to a high SPF on dry skin and on wet skin.

The present invention therefore relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:
a) at least one UV filter;
b) at least one lipophilic polymer comprising monomeric units of formula (A) and (B):

in which:
R1, independently of each other, are chosen from alkyl or alkenyl radicals;
with at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups being radicals selected from stearyl and behenyl radicals, the weight percentage relating to the sum of all the R1 groups present in the polymer;
the weight ratio of the sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all acrylate units bearing the R1 group is from 1:30 to 1:1; and
the sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight of the total weight of the polymer; and
c) at least one carrageenan.

Unlike conventional sunscreen compositions, the composition of the invention combines satisfactory application on wet skin with high sun protection.

Indeed, the composition of the invention has good usage properties. It spreads easily on both dry and wet skin and allows for uniform application without the appearance of a whitish film on the skin.

The composition also allows UV rays to be filtered at a high SPF, therefore resulting in better protection of the skin, whether the composition is applied to dry or wet skin.

The composition of the invention is also stable over time.

Furthermore, the composition of the invention has good cosmetic properties, particularly in terms of a sticky effect to the touch. It is in fact pleasant and not very sticky.

The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material comprising the application to the surface of said keratin material of at least one composition according to the invention as defined above.

The present invention relates in particular to a method for non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin, in particular human skin, in particular dry skin and/or wet skin, against UV radiation, consisting of applying to said skin the composition according to the invention as defined above.

It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and/or improving the color and/or uniformity of the complexion comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one composition according to the invention as defined above.

It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and/or treating the signs of aging of a keratin material comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one composition according to the invention as defined above.

Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

By “stable over time” according to the present invention is meant a composition which after 1 month, preferably after 2 months, of storage at a temperature ranging from 4 to 45°C does not exhibit any macroscopic change in color, odor, viscosity, or variation in pH, as well as no variation in microscopic appearance.

By "good compatibility on wet skin" within the meaning of the present invention, it is meant that when the composition is applied at a rate of 2 mg.cm ^-2 , on the skin or a previously wetted skin substitute substrate, a homogeneous film is obtained which is transparent to the naked eye.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "SPF" (Sun Protection Factor) means: the sun protection factor, which measures the level of protection against UVB. The SPF value corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time required to obtain sunburn with an antisun composition and that without product. More precisely, the term "SPF" is defined in the article A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May/June 1989).

The SPF (Sun Protection Factor) assessment can be carried out in vitro using the Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material on which the anti-sun composition is applied. For this protocol, polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) plates have proven to be ideal.

The assessment of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of the compositions can also be carried out in-vivo according to the ISO/EN 24444 protocol “Cosmetics-Sun protection test methods-In-vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) (2019)”.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "PPD" (Persistent Pigment Darkening in English) means: the index characterizing protection against UVA. In particular, the "PPD" measures the color of the skin observed 2 to 4 hours after exposure to UVA. This method has been adopted since 1996 by the Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) as an official test procedure for the UVA labeling of products and is frequently used by testing laboratories in Europe and the United States; (Japan Cosmetic Industry Association Technical Bulletin. Measurement Standards for UVA protection efficacy. Issued November 21, 1995 and effective of January 1, 1996).

Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent upon reading the detailed description which follows.

The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium. Here, the term “physiologically acceptable medium” means a medium compatible with keratin materials.

In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is understood to mean in particular the skin, the scalp, the keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the hair, and the body hairs, the nails, the mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin and the mucous membranes (body, face, eye contour, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from … to …”.

Furthermore, the expressions “at least one” and “at least” used in this description are respectively equivalent to the expressions “one or more” and “greater than or equal”.

By “prevent” or “prevention”, according to the invention, is meant the fact of reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of aging of a keratin material.

By “organic UVA filter” is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm; said molecule can also additionally absorb UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

By “organic UVB filter” we mean any organic chemical molecule capable of exclusively absorbing UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion.

By "emulsion" is meant any macroscopically homogeneous composition that is kinetically stable comprising at least two phases that are immiscible with each other; one being the continuous dispersing phase and the other being dispersed in said continuous phase in the form of droplets. The two phases are kinetically stabilized by at least one emulsifying system generally comprising at least one emulsifying surfactant.

A distinction is made between oil-in-water emulsions called "direct" consisting of a continuous aqueous dispersing phase and a discontinuous oily dispersed phase and water-in-oil emulsions called inverse consisting of a continuous oily dispersing phase and a discontinuous aqueous dispersed phase. There are also multiple emulsions such as water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil emulsions.

Detailed description of the invention UV filters

The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one UV filter.

The UV filter(s) may be chosen from lipophilic organic UV filters, hydrophilic organic UV filters and inorganic UV filters.

Lipophilic organic UV filters

By "lipophilic organic filter" we mean any organic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.

The lipophilic organic filters are in particular chosen from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds in particular those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in applications US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93/04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes compounds as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1133980 and EP133981 and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the lipophilic organic filter(s) are chosen from salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; and mixtures thereof.

Examples of lipophilic organic photoprotective agents include those designated below by their INCI name and/or chemical name.

Cinnamic compounds:
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL® MCX by the company DSM Nutritional Products;
Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 ® by the company Symrise,

Dibenzoylmethane compounds:
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL® 1789 by the company DSM Nutritional Products,

Salicylic compounds:
Homosalate sold under the name “Parsol® HMS” by the company DSM Nutritional Products,
Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name “NEO HELIOPAN® OS” by the company Symrise,

β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds:
Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL® N 539 T” by the company BASF,

Benzophenone compounds:
Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name “UVINUL® M 40” by the company BASF,
Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate sold under the trade name “UVINUL® A Plus” or in mixture with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate under the trade name “UVINUL® A Plus B” by the company BASF,

Benzylidene camphor compounds:
4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name “EUSOLEX® 6300” by the company MERCK,

Phenyl benzotriazole compounds:
Drometrizole Trisiloxane manufactured under the name “MEXORYL® XL” by the company NOVEAL,

Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds:
Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, in particular in solid form as the product sold under the trade name “MIXXIM BB/100 ®” by the company FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL,

Triazine compounds:
- 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-1,2,4-triazine), INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl triazine,
- Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name “TINOSORB® S” by the company BASF,
- Ethylhexyl Triazone sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL® T 150” by the company BASF,
- Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name “UVASORB® HEB” by the company 3V SIGMA,
- symmetrical triazine filters substituted by naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in patent US6,225,467, application WO2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document “Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives” IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004),

Anthranilic compounds:
Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name “NEO HELIOPAN® MA” by the company Symrise,

Benzalmalonate compounds:
Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name “PARSOL SLX ®” by the company HOFFMANN LA ROCHE.

Hydrophilic organic UV filters

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrophilic organic UV filter” means a water-soluble organic UV filter or a water-dispersible organic UV filter.

By "water-soluble organic filter" is meant any organic filter capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase, or of being dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

The term "water-dispersible organic filter" means any organic filter capable of forming in a liquid aqueous phase a homogeneous suspension of particles with a volume average size of less than 100 microns. The volume average size is determined by laser diffraction granulometry.

Among the water-soluble organic UVA filters that can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of benzene 1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) and its various salts, described in particular in patent applications FR-A-2528420 and FR-A-2639347. Mention may in particular be made of benzene 1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) such as that manufactured under the name “MEXORYL® SX” by the company NOVEAL.

These filters correspond to the following general formula (I):
[Chem 1]

in which, F denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or a radical NH(R ₁ ) ₃ ⁺ in which the radicals R ₁ , which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical, or a group Mn+, Mn+ denoting a polyvalent metal cation in which n is equal to 2 or 3 or 4, Mn+ preferably denoting a metal cation chosen from Ca ²⁺ , Zn ²⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ba ²⁺ , Al ³⁺ and Zr ⁴⁺ . It is understood that the compounds of formula (I) above can give rise to the "cis-trans" isomer around one or more double bond(s) and that all the isomers fall within the scope of the present invention.

Among the water-soluble organic UVA filters which can be used according to the present invention, mention may also be made of compounds comprising at least two benzoazolyl groups with sulfonic groups such as those described in patent application EP-A-0669323.

They are described and prepared according to the syntheses indicated in US patent 2,463,264 as well as in patent application EP-A-0669323.

The compounds comprising at least two benzoazolyl groups in accordance with the invention correspond to the following general formula (II):
[Chem 2]
(II)
in which:
- Z represents an organic residue of valence (l + n) comprising one or more double bonds placed in such a way that it completes the double bond system of at least two benzoazolyl groups as defined inside the brackets to form a fully conjugated set;
- X' denotes S, O or NR ⁶ ;
- R ¹ denotes a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ to C ₁₈ alkyl, a C ₁ to C ₄ alkoxy, a C ₅ to C ₁₅ aryl, a C ₂ to C ₁₈ acyloxy, an SO ₃ Y or COOY group;
- the radicals R ² , R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ , identical or different, denote a nitro group or a radical R ¹ ;
- R ⁶ denotes a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl or a C ₁ to C ₄ hydroxyalkyl;
- Y denotes a hydrogen atom, Li, Na, K, NH ₄ , 1/2Ca, 1/2Mg, 1/3Al or a cation resulting from the neutralization of a free acid group by an organic nitrogen base;
- m is 0 or 1;
- n is a number from 2 to 6;
- l is a number from 1 to 4;
- provided that l + n does not exceed the value 6.

Among these compounds, 1,4-bis-benzimidazolyl-phenylen-3,3',5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid (INCI name: Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate) or one of its salts with the following structure sold in particular under the name "NEO HELIOPAN® AP" by the company Symrise will be particularly preferred:
[Chem 3]

Preferably, the water-soluble filter capable of absorbing UVA is benzene 1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) such as that manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SX" by NOVEAL.

The water-soluble organic UVB filters that can be used according to the present invention are notably chosen from water-soluble cinnamic derivatives such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid; water-soluble benzylidene camphor compounds; water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds; water-soluble p-aminobenzoic compounds (PABA); water-soluble salicylic compounds, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of water-soluble organic UVB filters include phenyl benzimidazole compounds, such as 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid) sold in particular under the trade name “EUSOLEX 232 ^® ” by MERCK.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one mixed water-soluble filter capable of absorbing UVA and UVB rays.

When the water-soluble UV filter is of the sulfonic acid type, it is preferably associated with an organic base, such as an alkanolamine.

By "alkanolamine" is meant a _C2 - _C10 compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function and at least one alcohol function, generally primary. As suitable alkanolamine, mention may be made of 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol (INCI name: TROMETHAMINE) and triethanolamine.

Among the water-dispersible organic filters, the following filters can be mentioned.

Benzophenone compounds:
1,1'-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone (CAS 919803-06-8) as described in application WO2007/071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (volume average size of 0.02 to 2 µm) which can be obtained for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion,

Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds:
Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a mean particle size by volume which varies from 0.01 to 5 μm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 μm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant of structure C _n H _2n+1 O(C ₆ H ₁₀ O ₅ ) _x H in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the mean degree of polymerization of the unit (C ₆ H ₁₀ O ₅ ) and varies from 1.4 to 1.6 such as the aqueous dispersions described in patent GB-A-2 303 549, in particular the product sold under the trade name "TINOSORB® M" by the company BASF, or
in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume average particle size which varies from 0.02 to 2 μm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 μm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 μm, in the presence of at least one mono-(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl-ester of polyglycerol having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of at least 5 such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO2009/063392, in particular the product marketed under the name Tinosorb WPGL by the company BASF,

Triazine compounds:
- Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine in its water-dispersible form with the INCI name Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, under the trade name TINOSORB® S LiteAqua by the company BASF,
- symmetrical triazine filters substituted by naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 µm) obtainable for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119, and in particular in aqueous dispersion form, in particular 2,4,6-tris(bi-phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine marketed under the name TINOSORB® A2B by the company BASF and which is included in patent applications WO06/035000, WO06/034982, WO06/034991, WO06/035007, WO2006/034992, WO2006/034985,

Benzoxazole compounds:
2-[4-(1,3-benzoxazol-2-yl)phenyl]-1,3-benzoxazole, CAS number 904-39-2.

Inorganic UV filters

The inorganic UV filters that can be used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 µm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 µm, and even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 µm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 µm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 µm. They are notably described in Annex VI updated on 09/22/2021 of the European Cosmetic Products Regulation number 1223/2009, but are not limited to this list.

They can be chosen in particular from titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium oxides or their mixtures.

Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, mention may be made of the products sold by the companies CRODA, TAYCA, and MERCK.

Metal oxide pigments can be coated or uncoated.

Coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminium), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

Coated pigments are more particularly coated titanium oxides:
- hydrated silica such as the product “MT-100WP” from the company TAYCA,
- silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F®" from the company IKEDA,
- silica and alumina such as the products "MT-500SA®" and "MT-100SA®" from the company TAYCA, "TIOVEIL™ AQ-N" from the company CRODA,
- alumina such as the products "TTO-55 (A)®" from the company ISHIHARA,
- alumina and aluminum stearate such as the products "MT-100TV®, MT-100Z®, MT-01®" from the company TAYCA, the product "Solaveil™ CT100" from the company CRODA and the product "Eusolex T-AVO®" from the company MERCK,
- silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100AQ®" from the company TAYCA,
- alumina and aluminum laurate,
- iron oxide and iron stearate,
- zinc oxide and zinc stearate,
- silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MTY-500SAS®" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT-100SAS®" from the company TAYCA,
- silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with silicone,
- silica and treated with silicone,
- alumina and treated with silicone such as the products "TTO-55(S)®" from the company ISHIHARA,
- triethanolamine,
- stearic acid such as the product "TTO-55 (C)®" from the company ISHIHARA,
- sodium hexametaphosphate,
- TiO2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane,
- TiO2 treated with polydimethylsiloxane,
- anatase/rutile TiO2 treated with polydimethylhydrogensiloxane,
- TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate, alumina sold under the trade name “Solaveil™ CT-200” from CRODA,
- TiO2 coated with aluminum stearate, alumina and silicone sold under the trade name “Solaveil™ CT-12W” from CRODA,
- TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine,
- TiO2 coated with C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminum hydroxide.

Mention may also be made of TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, manganese and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including those of capric/caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may additionally comprise one or more dispersing agents such as, for example, a sorbitan ester such as sorbitan isostearate, a polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol ester such as TRI-PPG3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersing agent chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol esters. More particularly, mention may be made of the oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO2 particles in capric/caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE and SORBITAN ISOSTERATE with the INCI name: TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 RICINOLEATE (and) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE or the product sold under the trade name “OPTISOL™ OTP-1” by the company CRODA.

Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company TAYCA under the trade names "MT-500B" or "MT-600B®", by the company Evonik under the name "DEGUSSA P 25".

Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
- those marketed under the name “Z-COTE®” by the company BASF;
- those marketed under the name “NanoArc® Zinc Oxide” by the company Nanophase Technologies.

Coated zinc oxide pigments include for example:
- ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogensiloxane;
- CRODA’s “Solaveil™ CZ-100” dispersed in C12-15 alkyl benzonate (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid);
- those marketed under the name and "DAITOPERSION Zn-60VA®" by the company Daito Kasei (dispersions in C9-12 alkane with a dispersing agent);
- those marketed under the name "SPD-Z5®" by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane).

Uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name RHODIGARD® W185 by the company Solvay.

Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the equal-weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin.

When the composition according to the invention comprises inorganic UV filters, titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred.

According to a particular embodiment, the total amount of UV filters present in the composition is greater than or equal to 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the total amount of UV filters present in the composition is between 15% and 35% by weight, preferably between 18% and 25% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “total quantity of UV filters” means the sum of the concentrations of active material in each of the UV filters present in the composition, in particular the lipophilic organic UV filters, the hydrophilic organic UV filters, and the inorganic UV filters.

Lipophilic polymers

The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one lipophilic polymer comprising monomeric units of formula (A) and (B):

in which:
R1, independently of each other, are chosen from alkyl or alkenyl radicals;

with at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups being radicals selected from stearyl and behenyl radicals, the weight percentage relating to the sum of all the R1 groups present in the polymer;
the weight ratio of the sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all acrylate units bearing the R1 group is from 1:30 to 1:1; and
the sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight of the total weight of the polymer.

Preferably, R1 consists of alkyl radicals, preferably C16-C22 alkyl radicals, and more preferably stearyl radicals (C18) or behenyl radicals (C22).

Preferably, at least 70% by weight of the R1 groups are stearyl or behenyl radicals, preferably at least 80% by weight, and more preferably at least 90% by weight.

According to a preferred embodiment, all R1 groups are behenyl radicals.

According to another preferred embodiment, all R1 groups are stearyl radicals.

Preferably, said weight ratio ranges from 1:15 to 1:1, preferably from 1:10 to 1:4.

Advantageously, the polymer units present in the polymer consist of the units (A) and (B) described above.

The polymer has a number average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2,000 to 9,000 g/mol, preferably ranging from 5,000 to 9,000 g/mol. The number average molecular weight can be measured with the gel permeation chromatography method, for example according to the method described in the example below.

Preferably, the polymer has a melting temperature ranging from 40°C to 70°C, and preferably ranging from 45°C to 67°C. The melting temperature is measured by differential scanning calorimetry (or DSC), for example according to the method described in the example below.

According to a first embodiment, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are stearyl radicals, then the polymer generally has a melting point ranging from 40 to 60°C, and preferably ranging from 45 to 55°C.

According to a second embodiment, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are behenyl radicals, then the polymer generally has a melting point ranging from 60 to 70°C, and preferably ranging from 63 to 67°C.

The polymer used according to the invention can be prepared by polymerization of monomer of formula CH2=CH-COO-R1, R1 having the meaning described above, and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate.

The polymerization can be carried out according to known methods, such as solution or emulsion polymerization.

The polymerization is for example described in document US 2007/0264204.

The lipophilic polymer(s) used in the context of the invention and as described above may be present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Carrageenans

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one carrageenan.

Carrageenans are polysaccharides extracted from algae, used in the food industry as gelling agents. In particular, they are sulfated polysaccharides that constitute the cell walls of various red algae, from which they can be obtained.

Among these red algae we can cite, without limitation, Kappaphycus alvarezii, Eucheuma denticulatum, Eucheuma spinosum, Chondrus crispus, Betaphycus gelatinum, Gigartina skottsbergii, Gigartina canaliculata, Sarcothalia crispata, Mazzaella laminaroides, Hypnea musciformis, Mastocarpus stellatus and Iridaea cordata.

Carrageenans consist of long galactan chains, formed by disaccharide units.

They are composed of alternating (1→3) β-D-galactopyranose (G unit) and (1→4) α-galactopyranose (D unit) or 3,6-anhydro-a-galactopyranose (AnGal unit). Each sugar unit can be sulfated one or more times in position 2, 3, 4 or 6.

Methyl groups, pyruvic acids and other sugar units can also be found grafted onto the basic structures described above.

Carrageenans were initially subdivided into subfamilies based on their solubility in KCl, then according to the number, position of sulfate groups and the presence of 3',6'-anhydro bridges on galactopyranosyl residues.

There are at least fifteen listed carrageenans whose structure depends on the original algae and the extraction method.

Among the most common we can cite the carrageenans below:

These carrageenans are thus often obtained in the form of mixtures of different structures such as, and in a non-limiting manner, mixtures of forms κΘ, κι, κμ.

The carrageenans that can be used may in particular be chosen from carrageenans of type μ, κ, v, ι, λ, Θ and their mixtures, in all proportions. In particular, carrageenans of form λ, form κ or form ι, or their mixtures, will be used.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one carrageenan comprising mainly ι forms, or exclusively in ι form.

According to another particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one carrageenan comprising mainly λ forms, or exclusively in λ form.

Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one carrageenan comprising mainly ι forms, or exclusively in ι form and at least one carrageenan comprising mainly λ forms, or exclusively in λ form. In this case, the ratio between the carrageenans comprising mainly ι forms, or exclusively in ι form and the carrageenans comprising mainly λ forms, or exclusively in λ form is between 0.2 and 5, preferably between 0.75 and 1.25.

By predominantly we mean that the percentage of this type of chains in the composition of the product is greater than or equal to 50%, this proportion being able to be greater than or equal to 80% in certain embodiments.

According to a particular embodiment, the carrageenans according to the invention are carrageenans derived from Chondrus Crispus or Kappaphycus alvarezii. Preferably, the carrageenans are derived from Chondrus Crispus.

The molecular weight of the carrageenans useful for the present invention may be between 300 and 100x10 ⁶ Daltons. Their molecular weight may preferably be between 10x10 ³ Daltons and 10x10 ⁶ Daltons.

Carrageenans that are particularly suitable according to the invention may in particular be extracted from Chondrus crispus, such as those marketed by the company Cargill. In particular, a carrageenan according to the invention may be the product Satiagum UPC 410 marketed by the company Cargill.

Other carrageenans suitable according to the invention are the products AEC Carrageenan Gel and AEC Carrageenan Powder marketed by the company A&E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics), the products Gelcarin GP379, Gelcarin GP812, Gelcarin GP911, SeaSpen PF, Viscarin GP109, Viscarin GP209 and Viscarin GP328 marketed by the company FMC Corporation, and the products Genugel Carrageenan and Genuvisco Carrageenan marketed by the company CP Kelco.

The carrageenan(s) are generally present in the composition according to the invention in a content of between 0.2% and 10.0% by weight, better still between 0.5% and 7.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Waxes

According to a particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one wax.

The wax(es) are generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C and up to 200°C, most often up to 120°C.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments.

Preferably, the waxes usable in the composition of the present invention have an enthalpy of fusion ∆Hf greater than or equal to 70 J/g.

Preferably, the waxes comprise at least one crystallizable part, visible by X-ray observations.

The measurement protocol is as follows.

A 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 °C to 120 °C, at a heating rate of 10 °C / minute, then is cooled from 120 °C to -20 °C at a cooling rate of 10 °C per minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 °C to 120 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C per minute. During the second temperature rise, the following parameters are measured:
- the melting point or melting temperature (Tf) of the wax, as previously mentioned, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the melting curve observed, representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature,
- ∆Hf: the enthalpy of fusion of the wax corresponding to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained. This enthalpy of fusion of the wax is the quantity of energy required to change the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.

When present in the composition in accordance with the invention, the wax(es) may be present in a total content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase, better still from 2% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

When present in the composition according to the invention, the wax(es) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention more precisely comprises at least one hard wax.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hard wax” means a wax having a melting temperature greater than or equal to 50°C, in particular ranging from 50 to 100°C, more preferably between 50 and 90°C.

Advantageously, by “hard” wax within the meaning of the present invention, we mean a wax having at 20°C, a hardness greater than 5 MPa, in particular ranging from 5 to 30 MPa, preferably greater than 6 MPa, better still ranging from 6 to 25 MPa.

To perform these hardness measurements, the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 20 °C. To do this, 30 g of wax is placed in a 100 ml beaker with a diameter of 50 mm, itself positioned on a heated magnetic stirring plate.

A quantity of approximately 15 g of melted wax is poured into a stainless steel container 80 mm in diameter and 15 mm deep, previously heated to 45 °C in an oven. The wax is then left to recrystallize in a room thermostatically controlled at 20 °C for 24 hours before taking the measurement.

The mechanical properties of the wax or wax mixture are determined in a room thermostatically controlled at 20°C using the texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2i by the company Swantech, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm.

The measurement consists of 3 steps: a first step after automatic detection of the sample surface where the mobile moves at the measurement speed of 0.1 mm/s, and penetrates the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm, the software notes the value of the maximum force reached; a second step called relaxation where the mobile remains in this position for one second and where the force is noted after 1 second of relaxation; finally a 3rd step called withdrawal where the mobile returns to its initial position at the speed of 1 mm/s and the withdrawal energy of the probe (negative force) is noted.

The hardness value corresponds to the maximum compressive force measured in Newton divided by the surface area of the texturometer cylinder expressed in mm ² in contact with the wax. The hardness value obtained is expressed in mega-pascals or MPa.

Examples of hard wax include carnauba wax, candelilla wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, rice bran wax, sumac wax, sunflower wax, macadamia wax, hydrogenated olive oil such as Waxolive from SOLIANCE, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with fatty alcohols with a C12 to C18 chain such as those sold by SOPHIM under the trade names Phytowax Olive 16L55 and 18L57, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl or behenic alcohol such as those sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16 L 64 and Phytowax Ricin 22 L 73 by SOPHIM.

Preferably, waxes of plant origin are used, such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sumac wax, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with fatty alcohols with a C12 to C18 chain, rice bran wax.

The hard wax(es) are preferably polar.

By "polar" wax is meant a wax whose solubility parameter calculated beyond its melting point δa is different from 0 (J/cm3)½.

In particular, by “polar” wax is meant a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one strongly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.

The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in the three-dimensional HANSEN solubility space are described in the article by C. M. HANSEN: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:
- δD characterizes the LONDON dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks;
- δp characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;
- δh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond type, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.);
- δa is determined by the equation: δa = (δp² + δh²)½.

The parameters δp, δh, δD and δa are expressed in (J/cm3)½.

Additionally, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one soft wax, that is to say whose melting temperature is strictly less than 50°C, and optionally whose hardness is strictly less than 5 MPa.

However, a composition according to the invention preferably comprises less than 5% by weight of soft waxes, preferably less than 2% by weight of soft waxes, more preferably still is free of soft waxes.

Silicone copolymers

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more silicone copolymers resulting from the copolymerization of at least one monomer of the carboxylic acid ester type and of an alcohol with a fatty chain in C6 to C30, preferably in C8 to C24, with at least one monomer containing a polyalkylsiloxane chain.

Among the monomers of the fatty chain carboxylic acid and alcohol ester type that can be used according to the present invention, mention may in particular be made of acrylates, methacrylates, maleates, fumarates, itaconates, crotonates of fatty chain alkyl C6 to C30, preferably C8 to C24, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the monomer(s) of the C6 to C30 fatty chain alcohol and carboxylic acid ester type are chosen from esters of (meth)acrylic acid and C6 to C30 fatty chain alcohol, preferably from C8 to C24.

In other words, the monomer(s) of the C6 to C30 fatty chain alkyl carboxylic acid ester type are preferably chosen from compounds of structure (IV) and their mixtures:
(IV)
in which:
R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl, and
R2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, from C6 to C30, preferably from C8 to C24.

R2 advantageously represents a branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, from C8 to C24.

According to a first particularly preferred embodiment, R1 represents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, C8 to C12, more preferably a 2-ethylhexyl group.

According to a second particularly preferred embodiment, R1 represents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a linear, saturated or unsaturated, C14 to C20 alkyl chain, more preferably a stearyl group.

Preferably, the monomer(s) containing a polyalkylsiloxane chain are chosen from monomers of the (meth)acrylic acid type esterified by a silicone group of structure (V):
(V)
in which:
R3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl, and
R4, R5, R6, R7 and R8 represent, independently of each other, identical or different, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C1 to C30 alkyl chain,
n and m independently represent an integer greater than or equal to 1.

Preferably, R3 represents methyl.

Preferably, R4, R5, R6, R7 and R8 represent, independently of each other, identical or different, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, in C1 to C24, and more preferably in C1 to C12.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, R3, R4, R5, R6, R7 and R8 represent a methyl.

The silicone copolymer(s) according to the present invention may optionally further comprise one or more additional monomers, and in particular one or more C1 to C5 carboxylic acid and alcohol ester monomers. Preferably, the additional monomer(s) are chosen from C1 to C4 (meth)acrylic acid and alcohol esters and mixtures thereof, more preferably from methyl (meth)acrylic acid esters, butyl (meth)acrylic acid esters, ethyl (meth)acrylic acid esters and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the silicone copolymer(s) present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from copolymers resulting from the copolymerization of at least one monomer of structure (IV) in which R1 represents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a branched, saturated or unsaturated, C7 to C24 alkyl chain, with at least one monomer of structure (V) in which R3, R4, R5, R6, R7 and R8 all represent a methyl group, n is an integer between 1 and 6, and m represents an integer greater than or equal to 1; and mixtures thereof.

The silicone copolymer(s) are generally obtained according to the usual methods of polymerization and grafting, for example by radical polymerization of at least one monomer of polydimethylsiloxane type comprising at least one polymerizable radical group (for example on one of the ends of the chain or at both ends), as described above, and of at least one monomer of carboxylic acid ester type and of alkyl with a fatty chain in C7 to C30, as described, for example, in documents US-A-5,061,481 and US-A-5,219,560.

The silicone copolymer(s) obtained generally have a molecular weight ranging from approximately 3,000 to 200,000, and preferably from approximately 5,000 to 100,000.

The silicone copolymer(s) used in the composition according to the present invention may be in their native form or in dispersed form in a solvent such as lower alcohols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as isopropyl alcohol, or oils, such as preferably volatile silicone oils, such as cyclopentasiloxane or a dimethicone, or even hydrocarbon oils, such as paraffin or isoparaffins, such as isododecane.

Preferably, the solvent is chosen from oils, and more preferably from cyclopentasiloxane, linear pentadimethyl siloxane and their mixtures.

The silicone copolymer(s) that can be used in the composition according to the present invention are preferably chosen from copolymers of stearyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate and propyl methacrylate containing a polydimethylsiloxane chain; copolymers of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and propyl methacrylate containing a polydimethylsiloxane chain; and mixtures thereof.

In particular, mention may be made of the acrylate/dimethicone copolymers (INCI name) marketed by the company Shin-Etsu under the trade names KP-561 (copolymer of stearyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, and propyl methacrylate with a polydimethylsiloxane group); KP-541 in which the copolymer is dispersed in isopropyl alcohol; KP-545 in which the copolymer of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and propyl methacrylate with a polydimethylsiloxane group is dispersed in decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane; KP-545L in which the copolymer of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and propyl methacrylate having a polydimethylsiloxane group is dispersed in linear pentadimethyl siloxane; and KP-550 in which the copolymer of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and propyl methacrylate having a polydimethylsiloxane group is dispersed in isododecane.

Preferably, the silicone copolymer(s) present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from the products sold under the trade names KP-545 and KP-545L by the company Shin-Etsu.

The amount of the silicone copolymer(s), when present in the composition of the invention, preferably ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by total weight of the composition.

Fat phase

The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one fatty phase.

The fatty phase may consist of all fatty substances conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields, it includes in particular the wax(es) defined above and may include at least one oil. The fatty phase further includes the lipophilic filter(s), as well as the fatty alcohol(s) present in the composition according to the invention.

Oil is any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20 – 25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^-3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 ^-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrocarbon oil” means any oil containing mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen. Thus, these oils may in particular contain one or more ester, ether, fluorine, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.

The term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used according to the invention, we may notably cite:
(i) hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids may have chain lengths varying from _C4 to _C24 , the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; These oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, musk rose; or caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel;
(ii) synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
(iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof;
(iv) synthetic esters such as oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' is ≥ 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN®" or "Witconol TN®" by the company WITCO or "TEGOSOFT TN ®" by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name "X-TEND 226®" by the company ISP, lanolate isopropyl, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name "Dub Dis" by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates such as linear C12-C13 dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI® by the company ENICHEM AUGUSTA INDUSTRIALE as well as linear C14-C15 dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETL® by the same company; acetates;
(v) fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;
(vi) higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;
(vii) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate such as the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC®” by the company Cognis;
and their mixtures.

Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used according to the invention, the following will be particularly preferred: glyceride triesters and in particular caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol. Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils are chosen from diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate and dicaprylyl carbonate.

As volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO2008/155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes and different by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from copra or palm oil. Mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of the application WO2008/155059 of the company Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97®, as well as their mixtures.

Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt® by the company SHELL, may also be used. According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

The non-volatile silicone oils may be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, pendant and/or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity ≤ 8 centistokes (8 10 ^-6 m ² /s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

We can also cite volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils such as:
3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane,
3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, and
3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane.

Fluorinated volatile oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof, may also be used.

The fatty phase according to the invention may also comprise, mixed with or dissolved in the oil, other fatty substances.

Another fatty substance that may be present in the oily phase may be, for example:
- a fatty acid chosen from fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms different from fatty chain amino acids as defined above, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;
- a gum chosen from silicone gums (dimethiconol),
- a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives,
- and their mixtures.

The overall fatty phase, including all the lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, including the lipophilic filters, represents from 20% to 60% by weight, and preferably from 25% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase contains water, and possibly other organic solvents soluble or miscible in water.

An aqueous phase suitable for the invention may comprise, for example, water chosen from a natural spring water, such as La Roche-Posay water, Vittel water, Saint Gervais Mont Blanc water, or Vichy water, or a floral water.

Water-soluble or miscible solvents suitable for the invention include, in addition to short-chain alcohols as defined above, diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol, and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular form of the invention, the overall aqueous phase, including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, including the hydrophilic filters, represents from 40% to 80% by weight, and preferably from 55% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cosmetic active ingredients

The composition of the present invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

Examples of cosmetic active ingredients include moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates, polyglycerin-3; natural extracts; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid and their derivatives; retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; extracts of algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria; enzymes; tightening agents; agents acting on microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one moisturizing agent. Preferably, this is polyglycerin-3.

It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the amount of cosmetic active ingredient depending on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

Additional adjuvants or additives

The composition of the present invention may also include conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, fragrances, chelating agents (e.g., tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and disodium EDTA), preservatives (e.g., chlorphenesin and phenoxy ethanol) and bactericides, additional thickeners (such as acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, polysaccharides other than carrageenans, including xanthan gum), pH adjusters (e.g., triethanolamine, citric acid, and sodium hydroxide), fillers (e.g., aluminum starch octenylsuccinate and polymethylsisesquioxane), and mixtures thereof.

One skilled in the art can select the amount of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to harm the end use of the composition according to the present invention.

Dosage forms

The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art. They can be presented in particular in the form of an emulsion, simple or complex (O/W, W/O, O/W/O or W/O/W) such as a cream, a milk or a cream gel.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion. It may in particular be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (direct emulsion) or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (reverse emulsion). Preferably, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

In the case of compositions in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, the emulsification processes that can be used are of the blade or propeller, rotor-stator and HHP type.

To obtain stable emulsions with a low polymer content (oil/polymer ratio >25), it is possible to make the dispersion in concentrated phase then dilute the dispersion with the rest of the aqueous phase.

It is also possible, by HHP (between 50 and 800 bars), to obtain stable dispersions with drop sizes down to 100 nm.

The emulsions may generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are chosen appropriately according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W).

Examples of W/O emulsifying surfactants include alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol, glycerol or sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C®" by the company Dow Corning, and alkyl-dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Corning; Cetyl dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R® by the company Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE O9® by the company Goldschmidt. One or more co-emulsifiers may also be added, which, advantageously, may be chosen from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters.

We can also cite non-silicone emulsifying surfactants, in particular alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol or sugars.

Examples of polyol alkyl esters include polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel P135® by the company ICI.

As glycerol and/or sorbitan esters, mention may be made, for example, of polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Isolan GI 34® by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 987® by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 986® by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.

For H/W emulsions, examples of nonionic emulsifying surfactants that may be mentioned include polyoxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated) fatty acid and glycerol esters, such as the ester of polyethylene glycol and stearic acid with the INCI name PEG-100 STEARATE marketed under the name Myrj S100-PA-(SG) by the company CRODA; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; polyoxyalkylenated (in particular polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated) fatty acid esters, optionally in combination with a fatty acid and glycerol ester, such as the PEG-100 Stearate/Glyceryl Stearate mixture marketed, for example, by the company ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, in particular alkylpolyglucosides (APG) such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside marketed for example by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000® and Plantaren 1200®, cetostearylglucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name Montanov 68® by Seppic, under the name Tegocare CG90® by Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302® by Henkel, as well as arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidylglucoside marketed under the name Montanov 202® by Seppic. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described for example in document WO-A-92/06778.

As anionic surfactants for producing H/W emulsions, mention may be made of surfactants chosen from amino acids modified by at least one _C8 - _C30 hydrocarbon chain, preferably _C8 - _C24 , and their salts, in particular acyl glutamic acids (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or one of their salts (acyl glutamates), such as stearoyl glutamic acid or one of its salts, in particular sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI name).

Such compounds are marketed under the name AMISOFT by the company AJINOMOTO and in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11, Amisoft CK-11, or under the name EUMULGIN SG by the company COGNIS.

As anionic surfactants for producing H/W emulsions, mention may also be made of hydrophobic modified polysaccharides, in particular inulins modified by hydrophobic chains such as alkylcarbamate groups, in particular C8-C18 alkyl carbamate, and more particularly laurylcarbamate.

As an example of these compounds, we can notably cite the product sold under the name INUTEC SL1 by the company CREACHEM.

When it is an emulsion, the aqueous phase thereof may comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known methods (Bangham, Standish and Watkins. J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).

The compositions according to the invention find their application in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetic treatments, of the skin, lips and hair, including the scalp, in particular for the protection and/or care of the skin, lips and/or hair, and/or for the makeup of the skin and/or lips.

Another object of the present invention consists of the use of the compositions according to the invention as defined above for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and/or scalp, in particular care products, sun protection products and makeup products.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will now be described more specifically by way of examples, which are in no way limiting of the scope of the invention. However, the examples serve to support specific features, variations, and preferred embodiments of the invention.

A/ Examples of synthesis of lipophilic polymers comprising monomeric units of formula (A) and (B) in accordance with the invention

Determination of molecular weight by gel permeation chromatography (GPC):
The sample is prepared by making a solution of the polymer at 10 mg/ml in tetrahydrofuran. The sample is placed in an oven at 54 °C for 10 minutes and then in an oscillating shaker for 60 minutes to aid dissolution. Upon visual inspection, the sample appears completely dissolved in the solvent.
The prepared sample was analyzed using two 300 x 7.5 mm polypore columns (manufactured by Agilent Technologies), a Waters 2695 chromatographic system, a tetrahydrofuran mobile phase and refractive index detection. The sample was filtered through a 0.45 µm nylon filter before being injected into the liquid chromatograph. The standards used for calibration are the Easi Vial narrow polystyrene (PS) standards from Agilent Technologies.
Polystyrene standards ranging from 2,520,000 to 162 Daltons were used for calibration.
The system is equipped with a PSS SECcurity 1260 RI detector. The polystyrene calibration curve was used to determine the average molecular weight. The recording of the diagrams and the determination of the different molecular weights was done by the Win GPC Unichrom 81 program.

Determination of the melting point by differential scanning calorimetry (or DSC):
This method describes the general procedure for determining the melting point of polymers by differential scanning calorimetry. This method is based on ASTM E791 and ASTM D 34182 and the DSC calibration is performed according to ASTM E 9672.

Behenyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer (Polymer 1):
In a 4-necked flask equipped with a side-blade stirrer, an internal thermometer, two funnels, a reflux condenser, and an extension for two more necks, 175 g of behenyl acrylate, 25 g of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, and 0.4 g of 2,2'-azobis(2-methylbutyronitrile (Akzo Nobel) were added for 60 minutes at 80 °C in 40 g of isopropanol with stirring after removing oxygen from the system using a nitrogen purge for 20 minutes. The mixture was stirred at 80 °C for 3 hours. Then the solvent was removed by vacuum distillation, then 1 g of dilauryl peroxide was added and the reaction was continued for 60 minutes at 110 °C. The step was repeated. The mixture was then cooled to 90 °C and a jet demineralized water was added and stirred. The water was removed by vacuum distillation.
Molecular weight: Mn = 7300 g/mol, Mw = 21000, Mw/Mn = 2.8
Melting point: 65°C

Stearyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer (Polymer 2):
In a 4-necked flask equipped with a side-blade stirrer, an internal thermometer, two funnels, a reflux condenser, and an extension for two more necks, 155 g of behenyl acrylate, 45 g of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, and 0.4 g of 2,2'-azobis(2-methylbutyronitrile (Akzo Nobel) were added for 90 minutes at 80 °C in 50 g of isopropanol with stirring after removing oxygen from the system using a nitrogen purge for 20 minutes. The mixture was stirred at 80 °C for 3 hours. Then the solvent was removed by vacuum distillation, then 1 g of dilauryl peroxide was added and the reaction was continued for 60 minutes at 125 °C. The step was repeated. The mixture was then cooled to 90 °C and a jet demineralized water was added and stirred. The water was removed by vacuum distillation.
Molecular weight: Mn = 7500 g/mol, Mw = 19000, Mw/Mn = 2.6
Melting point: 49°C

B/ Examples of formulations

In these examples, the quantities of the ingredients present in the compositions are given in % by weight of raw materials relative to the total weight of the composition.

Application protocol:
The application of a sunscreen product as part of a photoprotection test is an important step because it has a significant impact on the SPF result. It must therefore be standardized and carried out in the most favorable conditions possible.
This application is performed on the backs of 3 to 10 volunteers.
Areas of 30 cm² on the back will be selected between the shoulder blades and the lower back for the application of the products.
They must be free of spots, hair, down, moles or scars and have a uniform color.
When positioning the volunteer, the back must be flat.
It is possible to spread it on dry skin as well as on wet skin in order to visualize the homogeneity of the product in contact with water.
Between each area, a minimum gap of 1 cm must be respected. These areas, of 30 cm² respectively, must be drawn between the shoulder blades and lower back. Before any sampling and unless otherwise indicated, it is important to shake the product well in order to obtain good homogenization of the emulsion.
A saturation of the sampling instrument (pipette or syringe) must be carried out for taring. A double weighing is necessary to ensure the correct quantity of product applied. The application pre-tests made it possible to evaluate the quantity of product to be sampled in order to ensure that 2 mg/cm² ± 2.5% will be correctly applied.
It is possible to apply with or without a finger cot. In the case of application with a finger cot, it must be well stretched at the level of the fingertip in order to avoid too much loss of product and to carry out the application in optimal conditions.
It is possible to apply the product with or without a finger cot, the water will always be applied with the finger cot. During the entire application, it is recommended to use light pressure, not to go back or lift the finger and to respect an application time of between 20 and 50 seconds.

On dry skin:
The drops of the product to be applied must be deposited evenly over the entire area and be of a uniform size. Care must be taken to ensure that the drops are not too close to the edges of the area to avoid too much overflow during application.
When applying, a number of factors must be taken into account: the pressure applied must be light and circular movements are essential. Ideally, it is necessary to start with small circles and widen them inside the area, always in the same direction, gradually moving towards the other end of the area. To avoid excessive concentration of product in the center, care must be taken to properly train the product to the edge. Linear movements, the finishing step, must be straight. It is advisable to carry out this step quickly so as not to alter the homogeneity of the deposit.

On wet skin:
The application procedure on wet skin is the same as on dry skin.
Water is applied beforehand in an amount of 1.7 mg/cm² and the product in an amount of 2 mg/cm²± 2.5%.
Evenly apply water over the entire test area, 1.7 mg/cm² of water (40 cm² = 68 mg), in the form of regular microdroplets. Using a fingertip, spread the drops quickly (10 to 15 seconds maximum), using circular movements followed by a single linear pass (along the length of the area).
When applying the sunscreen, the skin should still appear moist (microdroplets visible on the surface). The sunscreen to be tested should be applied immediately using the method described above.

Spread assessment protocol:
The control of the quantity applied must be carried out immediately after application.
Observation under a Wood lamp is necessary and allows the homogeneity of the deposit to be visualized. This evaluation is carried out immediately, then 15 minutes before exposure to UV (differences can be observed at 15-minute intervals). In some cases, an improvement in the homogeneity of the filters or a diffusion of the product can be observed.

SPF Evaluation Protocol in vivo on dry skin and on wet skin
The evaluation of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) on dry skin and on wet skin of the compositions is carried out in-vivo according to the ISO/EN 24444 method “Cosmetics-Sun protection test methods-In-vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) (2019)”.

Method of preparation of the compositions
In a stainless steel beaker, successively place phases A1, A2 and A3. Place the beaker on a hotplate at 55°C and under Rayneri. Once the phase is clear, add phase A4 to the beaker then phases A5 and A6. Leave to homogenize for a few minutes until no more white grains are observed. Finish by adding phase A7 while gradually increasing the stirring speed of the Rayneri. Once the phase has gelled and is grain-free, transfer it to the cos then turn on the stirring under blades. The double jacket must be set at 60-65°C in order to maintain the temperature.
In a beaker, weigh the fat phase B1, then place it on a hotplate until it reaches 80 °C and until the phase is clear. Turn off the heat, add phase B2 and leave to homogenize for a few minutes.
Then, using a funnel, pour phase B1 into the cos while turning on and increasing the turbine speed until reaching 40%. Cut off the heating of the double jacket.
After 10 minutes of emulsion, start cooling to reach a temperature of 55 °C. Once this temperature is reached, open the COS and add phase C previously homogenized using a spatula. Reactivate the blades and the turbine for 10 minutes. If necessary, add 5 or 10 minutes of stirring.
When the formula is smooth and homogeneous, continue cooling, still under the turbine but at 30%, until reaching 35°C. Add phase E by opening the COS, and start stirring (blades and turbine at 40%) for 5 minutes. Add 5 minutes if necessary so as not to have any charge deposit against the walls or on the blades. Continue cooling until reaching a temperature of around 30°C. Add phase F through the funnel, still stirring, for 5 minutes.

Example 1 - Composition 1 according to the invention
The following composition 1 is prepared.
[Table 1]
Phase Composition 1
(invention) A1 WATER / AQUA 29.65 A2 WATER / AQUA 10 A2 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE 0.31 A2 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 A2 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.11 A2 GLYCERIN 3 A2 TEREPHTHALYLIDENE DICAMPHOR SULFONIC ACID
(MEXORYL SX from NOVEAL) 1 A2 PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID
(EUSOLEX 232 from MERCK) 1.5 A3 PROPANEDIOL 3 A4 ACRYLATES COPOLYMER
(CARBOPOL AQUA SF-1 from LUBRIZOL) 2 A5 WATER / AQUA 2 A6 TRIETHANOLAMINE 1.86 A7 CARRAGEENAN
(SATIAGUM VPCN410 from CARGILL) 0.31 A7 CARRAGEENAN
(GENUVISCO CARRAGEENAN CG-131 from CP KELCO) 0.31 B1 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE
(PARSOL 1789 from DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS) 4.5 B1 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE
(TINOSORB S from BASF) 5 B1 DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE
(MEXORYL XL from NOVEAL) 0.5 B1 DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE
(UVINUL A PLUS GRANULAR from BASF) 0.5 B1 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE
(UVINUL T150 from BASF) 4.7 B1 C12-22 ALKYL ACRYLATE/HYDROXYETHYLACRYLATE COPOLYMER
(Polymer 1) 1 B1 ISOPROPYL PALMITATE 7 B1 DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 4 B1 DIISOPROPYL ADIPATE 4 B1 DICAPRYLYL ETHER 5 B1 CONSERVATIVE 0.5 B2 SCENT 0.6 B2 TOCOPHEROL 1 C XANTHAN GUM 0.1 C HYDROXYETHYL CELLULOSE 0.1 C ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER
(PEMULEN TR-2 from LUBRIZOL) 0.15 E OXIDIZED STARCH ACETATE 1 F ALCOHOL DENAT. 5

Results obtained
Composition 1 in accordance with the invention is easily and evenly applied to both dry and wet skin.

Example 2 - Compositions 2 to 4 according to the invention
The following compositions 2 to 4 are prepared.
[Table 2]
Phase Composition 2
(invention) 3
(invention) 4
(invention) A1 WATER / AQUA 25.65 26.65 27.65 A2 WATER / AQUA 10 10 10 A2 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE 0.31 0.31 0.31 A2 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 0.3 A2 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.11 0.11 0.11 A2 GLYCERIN 3 3 3 A2 TEREPHTHALYLIDENE DICAMPHOR SULFONIC ACID
(MEXORYL SX from NOVEAL) 1 1 1 A2 PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID
(EUSOLEX 232 from MERCK) 1.5 1.5 1.5 A3 PROPANEDIOL 3 3 3 A4 ACRYLATES COPOLYMER
(CARBOPOL AQUA SF-1 from LUBRIZOL) 2 2 2 A5 WATER / AQUA 2 2 2 A6 TRIETHANOLAMINE 1.86 1.86 1.86 A7 CARRAGEENAN
(SATIAGUM VPCN410 from CARGILL) 0.31 0.31 0.31 A7 CARRAGEENAN
(GENUVISCO CARRAGEEENAN CG-131 from CP KELCO) 0.31 0.31 0.31 B1 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE
(PARSOL 1789 from DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS) 4.5 4.5 4.5 B1 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE
(TINOSORB S from BASF) 5 5 5 B1 DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE
(MEXORYL XL from NOVEAL) 0.5 0.5 0.5 B1 DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE
(UVINUL A PLUS GRANULAR from BASF) 0.5 0.5 0.5 B1 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE
(UVINUL T150 from BASF) 4.7 4.7 4.7 B1 ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) BRAN WAX / ORYZA SATIVA CERA 1 1 1 B1 C12-22 ALKYL ACRYLATE/HYDROXYETHYLACRYLATE COPOLYMER
(Polymer 1) 1 1 1 B1 ISOPROPYL PALMITATE 7 7 7 B1 DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 4 4 4 B1 DIISOPROPYL ADIPATE 4 4 4 B1 COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX 1 - 1 B1 DICAPRYLYL ETHER 5 5 5 B1 CONSERVATIVE 0.5 0.5 0.5 B2 SCENT 0.6 0.6 0.6 B2 TOCOPHEROL 1 1 1 C DIMETHICONE (and) ACRYLATES/DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER
(KP-545L by SHIN ETSU) 2 2 - C XANTHAN GUM 0.1 0.1 0.1 C HYDROXYETHYL CELLULOSE 0.1 0.1 0.1 C ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER
(PEMULEN TR-2 from LUBRIZOL) 0.15 0.15 0.15 E OXIDIZED STARCH ACETATE 1 1 1 F ALCOHOL DENAT. 5 5 5

Results obtained
The results of dry and wet skin application tests and in vivo SPF are as follows.
[Table 3]
Composition 2
(invention) 3
(invention) 4
(invention) Application on dry skin Easy application.
Obtaining a homogeneous film on the skin. Easy application.
Obtaining a homogeneous film on the skin. Easy application.
Obtaining a homogeneous film on the skin. Application on wet skin Easy application.
Obtaining a homogeneous film on the skin. Some marbling and streaking throughout the area. Some marbling and streaking throughout the area. In vivo SPF on dry skin 65.8 +/- 5.8 78.2 +/- 3.0 67.7 +/- 2.3 In vivo SPF on wet skin 68.1 +/- 5.9 46.7 +/- 5.8 51.6 +/- 5.3

Compositions 2, 3 and 4 in accordance with the invention are easily applied to both dry and wet skin. The spreading obtained and observed under a Wood lamp is acceptable both on dry and wet skin with a high level of sun protection. The result is optimal with composition 2 which comprises the combination of a carnauba wax with an acrylate/dimethicone copolymer.

Comparative example 3 - Compositions 5 to 7
The following compositions 5 to 7 are prepared.
[Table 4]
Phase Composition 5
(invention) 6
(comparative) 7
(comparative) A1 WATER / AQUA 25.65 26.65 26.27 A2 WATER / AQUA 10 10 10 A2 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE 0.31 0.31 0.31 A2 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 0.3 A2 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.11 0.11 0.11 A2 GLYCERIN 3 3 3 A2 TEREPHTHALYLIDENE DICAMPHOR SULFONIC ACID
(MEXORYL SX from NOVEAL) 1 1 1 A2 PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID
(EUSOLEX 232 from MERCK) 1.5 1.5 1.5 A3 PROPANEDIOL 3 3 3 A4 ACRYLATES COPOLYMER
(CARBOPOL AQUA SF-1 from LUBRIZOL) 2 2 2 A5 WATER / AQUA 2 2 2 A6 TRIETHANOLAMINE 1.86 1.86 1.86 A7 CARRAGEENAN
(SATIAGUM VPCN410 from CARGILL) 0.31 0.31 - A7 CARRAGEENAN
(GENUVISCO CARRAGEEENAN CG-131 from CP KELCO) 0.31 0.31 - B1 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE
(PARSOL 1789 from DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS) 4.5 4.5 4.5 B1 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE
(TINOSORB S from BASF) 5 5 5 B1 DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE
(MEXORYL XL from NOVEAL) 0.5 0.5 0.5 B1 DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE
(UVINUL A PLUS GRANULAR from BASF) 0.5 0.5 0.5 B1 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE
(UVINUL T150 from BASF) 4.7 4.7 4.7 B1 ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) BRAN WAX / ORYZA SATIVA CERA 1 1 1 B1 C12-22 ALKYL ACRYLATE/HYDROXYETHYLACRYLATE COPOLYMER
(Polymer 1) 1 - 1 B1 ISOPROPYL PALMITATE 7 7 7 B1 DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 4 4 4 B1 DIISOPROPYL ADIPATE 4 4 4 B1 COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX 1 1 1 B1 DICAPRYLYL ETHER 5 5 5 B1 CONSERVATIVE 0.5 0.5 0.5 B2 SCENT 0.6 0.6 0.6 B2 TOCOPHEROL 1 1 1 C DIMETHICONE (and) ACRYLATES/DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER
(KP-545L by SHIN ETSU) 2 2 2 C XANTHAN GUM 0.1 0.1 0.1 C HYDROXYETHYL CELLULOSE 0.1 0.1 0.1 C ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER
(PEMULEN TR-2 from LUBRIZOL) 0.15 0.15 0.15 E OXIDIZED STARCH ACETATE 1 1 1 F ALCOHOL DENAT. 5 5 5

Results obtained
The results of dry and wet skin application tests and in vivo SPF are as follows.
[Table 5]
Composition 5
(invention) 6
(comparative) 7
(comparative) Application on dry skin Easy application.
Obtaining a homogeneous film on the skin. Slight streaks upon application. Some product gaps in the film. Application on wet skin Easy application.
Obtaining a homogeneous film on the skin. Some product gaps in the film. Some marbling and product loss throughout the area. In vivo SPF on dry skin 65.8 +/- 5.8 41.3 +/- 2.6 52.3 +/- 2.6 In vivo SPF on wet skin 68.1 +/- 5.9 37.0 +/- 2.6 41.9 +/- 3.7

Composition 5 in accordance with the invention is easily applied to both dry and wet skin. The spreading obtained and observed under a Wood lamp is homogeneous. The level of sun protection obtained is high.

Comparative composition 6 which does not contain a lipophilic polymer comprising monomeric units of formula (A) and (B) (C12-22 ALKYL ACRYLATE/HYDROXYETHYLACRYLATE COPOLYMER) and comparative composition 7 which does not contain carrageenan are more difficult to spread, both on dry skin and on wet skin, and the spreading obtained and observed under a Wood's lamp is not very homogeneous, which results in a less effective level of sun protection on dry skin as well as on wet skin.

Claims (24)

Composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, comprising:
a) at least one UV filter;
b) at least one lipophilic polymer comprising monomeric units of formula (A) and (B):

in which:
R1, independently of each other, are chosen from alkyl or alkenyl radicals;
with at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups being radicals selected from stearyl and behenyl radicals, the weight percentage relating to the sum of all the R1 groups present in the polymer;
the weight ratio of the sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all acrylate units bearing the R1 group is from 1:30 to 1:1; and
the sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight of the total weight of the polymer; and
the polymer having a number average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2,000 to 9,000 g/mol; and
c) at least one carrageenan. Composition according to claim 1 in which the UV filter(s) are chosen from lipophilic organic UV filters, hydrophilic organic UV filters, and inorganic UV filters. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2, in which the lipophilic organic UV filter(s) are chosen from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; filter polymers and filter silicones; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadienes and mixtures thereof; preferably salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 in which the hydrophilic organic UV filter(s) are chosen from water-soluble organic UV filters and water-dispersible organic UV filters. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the water-soluble organic UV filter(s) are chosen from benzene 1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid); benzene 1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid); and their salts. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 in which the water-dispersible organic UV filter(s) are chosen from Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size which varies from 0.01 to 5 μm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 μm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant of structure C _n H _2n+1 O(C ₆ H ₁₀ O ₅ ) _x H in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C ₆ H ₁₀ O ₅ ) and varies from 1.4 to 1.6; Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 μm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 μm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 μm, in the presence of at least one mono-(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl ester of polyglycerol having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of at least 5; Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine in its water-dispersible form with the INCI name Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer; symmetrical triazine filters substituted by naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 µm), and in particular in aqueous dispersion form, in particular 2,4,6-tris(bi-phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 in which in the lipophilic acrylic polymer R1 consists of an alkyl radical, preferably a C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ alkyl radical, and more preferably a behenyl or stearyl radical. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 in which in the lipophilic acrylic polymer at least 70% by weight of the R1 groups are behenyl or stearyl radicals, preferably at least 80% by weight, more preferably at least 90% by weight. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 in which in the lipophilic acrylic polymer all the R1 groups are stearyl or behenyl radicals. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 in which in the lipophilic acrylic polymer the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units carrying the group R1 ranges from 1:15 to 1:1, preferably ranges from 1:10 to 1:4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 in which the lipophilic acrylic polymer has a number average molecular weight Mn ranging from 5,000 to 9,000 g/mol. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 in which the lipophilic acrylic polymer has a melting temperature ranging from 40°C to 70°C, and preferably ranging from 45°C to 67°C. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 in which in the lipophilic acrylic polymer at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are stearyl radicals, and said polymer has a melting point ranging from 40 to 60°C, and preferably ranging from 45 to 55°C. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 in which in the lipophilic acrylic polymer at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are behenyl radicals, and said polymer has a melting point ranging from 60°C to 70°C, and preferably ranging from 63°C to 67°C. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 in which the lipophilic acrylic polymer(s) are present in an active material content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 comprising at least one carrageenan comprising predominantly ι forms, or exclusively in ι form. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16 comprising at least one carrageenan comprising predominantly λ forms, or exclusively in λ form. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17 comprising at least one carrageenan comprising mainly ι forms, or exclusively in ι form and at least one carrageenan comprising mainly λ forms, or exclusively in λ form. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18 comprising at least one wax, preferably a hard wax, and even more preferably a polar hard wax. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19 comprising at least one wax of plant origin such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sumac wax, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with fatty alcohols with a C12 to C18 chain, rice bran wax. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 20 comprising one or more silicone copolymers resulting from the copolymerization of at least one monomer of the carboxylic acid ester type and of C6 to C30 fatty chain alcohol, with at least one monomer containing a polyalkylsiloxane chain. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21 comprising at least one silicone copolymer chosen from copolymers of stearyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate and propyl methacrylate containing a polydimethylsiloxane chain; copolymers of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and propyl methacrylate containing a polydimethylsiloxane chain; and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 22 in the form of an emulsion, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and/or makeup of a keratin material comprising the application to the surface of said keratin material of at least one composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 23.