FR3119988A1 - Aqueous composition comprising an organic UV filter, a superabsorbent polymer, perlite and a fatty alcohol - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprising a UV filter, a superabsorbent polymer, perlite and a fatty alcohol The present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, comprising: - at least one organic UV filter; - at least one superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer; - pearlite; and - at least one C8-C30 fatty alcohol. The present invention makes it possible to obtain a composition having a pleasant sensoriality for daily use and a strong anti-UV protective power, while being stable and advantageously transparent on the skin.

Description

Aqueous composition comprising an organic UV filter, a superabsorbent polymer, perlite and a fatty alcohol

The present invention relates to an aqueous composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, comprising at least one organic UV filter, at least one particular superabsorbent polymer, perlite and at least one fatty alcohol.

To date, a wide variety of photoprotective compositions are already known for protecting keratin materials, and more particularly the skin, against the harmful effects induced by UVA and/or UVB radiation. Essentially, they contain a combination of several organic or inorganic UV filters, conveyed in the oily phase and/or in the aqueous phase as an anti-UV active agent and are generally offered in a galenic form of the emulsion or gel type.

It is also known that high filter rates are necessary to achieve high levels of filtering efficiency.

However, high levels of UV filters do not lend themselves to easy preparation of compositions with a stabilized and pleasant texture.

Thus, formulations with high filtering power generally present uncomfortable or even unpleasant sensory aspects masking the freshness and comfort of the formulas. In particular, the weak point of photoprotective formulations with a high protection factor is often a significant greasy and sticky feeling, and therefore a lack of lightness in the textures obtained, but also a white appearance on application and therefore not invisible on the skin. skin.

Furthermore, the introduction of high-grade UV filters generally causes destabilization problems. This instability can even sometimes cause a phase shift of the emulsion and/or a loss of viscosity of the composition, rendering the formulation ineffective or even unusable.

To overcome the aforementioned undesirable effects, and in particular to obtain a fresh effect on application and an invisible effect on the skin, aqueous galenics have already been considered. However, these aqueous compositions containing UV filters are generally sticky and therefore uncomfortable, but also very fluid.

It has also been proposed to structure an aqueous gel containing filters by polymers. However, this solution is not satisfactory because the structuring polymers generally used are not always very resistant to electrolytes and can also degrade the sensory properties of the compositions in terms of stickiness.

To overcome the aforementioned undesirable effects, the use of aqueous compositions containing UV filters in combination with other specific compounds has already been considered.

Thus, the joint use of clay-type mineral thickeners has been proposed to stabilize the compositions and possibly attenuate the stickiness of the photoprotective compositions. However, clays have the drawback of whitening the compositions, which then lose their transparency properties.

Consequently, it remains difficult to reconcile, in the same photoprotective composition, technical performances which oppose each other, such as a high level of UV protection which most often implies a greasy and sticky finish on the skin, and a pleasant sensory materialized in particular by a feeling of freshness.

There still remains a need for a photoprotective composition with a high level of UV protection and which is advantageously transparent on the skin.

In particular, there remains a need for a photoprotective composition with a high level of UV protection, endowed with pleasant sensory properties and which is advantageously refreshing, and preferably transparent on the skin.

This need for such a photoprotective composition is all the greater as the daily photoprotection market is booming. More and more hybrid products providing skin care and protection at SPF 15-20 are being launched, but there remains the challenge of having higher SPF values, for example greater than or equal to 30, or even greater than or equal to at 50, with a pleasant sensoriality for daily application. The world of skincare remains very different from the field of photoprotection in terms of the consumer experience with products sold in jars, which increases the complexity of formulation development.

We therefore seek to have a product with a high SPF while keeping the sensory codes of skin care: Appearance, texture, consistency, sensory.

In other words, the aim of the invention is to develop a product with an interesting sensory experience, in particular with a melting sensory experience and a non-greasy and non-sticky finish, allowing high daily photoprotection and which can be marketed in packaging conventionally used in the field of skincare, in particular a pot formulation.

There also remains a need for a photoprotective composition with a high level of UV protection and which is perfectly stable, that is to say not subject to demixing phenomena.

It has already been disclosed in patent EP 2 266 531 B1 to introduce into a composition comprising UV filters a superabsorbent polymer in order to reduce stickiness. However, the sensory properties of the compositions thus obtained are not satisfactory for daily use.

The present invention aims precisely to meet these needs.

Thus, the present invention relates, according to a first aspect, to an aqueous composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, comprising:
- at least one organic UV filter;
- at least one superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer;
- pearlite; And
- at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohol.

Against all expectations, the inventors have found that the implementation, in a photoprotective composition, of the combination of a superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, perlite and a fatty alcohol makes it possible to access to a galenic formulation with strong anti-UV protective power and which is nevertheless stabilized over time, with strong refreshing power and preferably transparent on the skin.

Advantageously, the implementation of the association of a superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted by an acrylic polymer with perlite and at least one fatty alcohol makes it possible to access an aqueous galenic formulation which is stabilized, presenting a sensoriality pleasant for everyday use and strong anti-UV protection.

Thus, the combination of a superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, of perlite, and of a fatty alcohol in an aqueous photoprotective composition advantageously makes it possible to combine properties which are generally mutually antagonistic.

A subject of the invention is also, according to another of its aspects, the use of a composition as defined above, for the care of keratin materials, in particular of the skin of the body and/or of the face.

The invention also relates, according to yet another of its aspects, to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and/or the face, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined above.

It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and/or improving the color and/or the uniformity of the complexion comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one composition such as previously defined.

It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and/or treating the signs of aging of a keratin material comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one composition as defined above.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the following terms mean:
- “Stable composition” a composition which, after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at room temperature (25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C, retains its pleasantness and its sensory signature at the app. More specifically, a " stable composition " within the meaning of the present invention has an acceptable viscosity change, that is to say that the difference between the initial viscosity and the viscosity after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at ambient temperature (25° C.), at 4° C. and at 45° C., remains less than 10%, preferably less than 5%. A “ stable composition ” within the meaning of the present invention also has a difference between the initial pH and after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at room temperature (25° C.), at 4° C. and at 45°C, less than 0.3 and shows no phase shift phenomenon after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at room temperature (25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C . Finally, a “ stable composition ” within the meaning of the present invention does not exhibit crystals after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at room temperature (25° C.), at 4° C. and at 45° C. .
- “ Transparent composition ” a composition which, when it is applied to the skin, for example in a thickness of 5 mm, is transparent, that is to say that it allows the skin to be seen. This transparency is assessed visually, with the naked eye.
- " SPF " (Sun Protection Factor in English): the sun protection factor, which measures the level of protection against UVB rays. The SPF value corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time required to obtain a sunburn with an antisun composition and that without product. More specifically, the term “ SPF ” is defined in the article A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum , J. Soc. Cosmetic. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May/June 1989).
The evaluation of the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) can be carried out in vitro using the Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material on which the sunscreen composition is applied. For this protocol, polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) plates have proven to be ideal.
The evaluation of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of the compositions can also be carried out in vivo according to the ISO/EN 24444 protocol "Cosmetics-Sun protection test methods-In-vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) ( 2010)”.
- " PPD " (Persistent Pigment Darkening in English): the index characterizing the protection against UVA rays. In particular, the “ PPD ” measures the color of the skin observed 2 to 4 hours after exposure to UVA rays. This method has been adopted since 1996 by the Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) as the official test procedure for UVA labeling of products and is frequently used by testing laboratories in Europe and the United States; (Japan Cosmetic Industry Association Technical Bulletin. Measurement Standards for UVA protection efficacy. Issued November 21, 1995 and effective of January 1, 1996).

Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the detailed description which follows.

The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium. Here, the term “physiologically acceptable medium” means a medium compatible with keratin materials.

In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is understood to mean in particular the skin, the scalp, the keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the hair, and the body hair, the nails, the mucous membranes such as the lips , and more particularly the skin and the mucous membranes (body, face, eye contour, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “included between” and “ranging from … to …”.

Furthermore, the expressions “at least one” and “at least” used in the present description are respectively equivalent to the expressions “one or more” and “greater than or equal”.

By "preventing" or "prevention" is meant according to the invention the fact of reducing the risk of occurrence or of slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of aging of a material keratin.

“Organic UVA filter” means any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm; said molecule can also additionally absorb UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

By "organic UVB filter" is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of exclusively absorbing UVB radiation in the range of wavelengths between 280 and 320 nm.
UV filters
Organic UV filters

The compositions according to the invention contain one or more organic UV filters. These can be chosen from hydrophilic organic UV filters, lipophilic organic UV filters and insoluble organic UV filters.

By "hydrophilic UV filter" is meant any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid aqueous phase or else of being dissolved in colloidal form (for example in the form micellar) in a liquid aqueous phase.

By "lipophilic filter" is meant any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or else of being dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form ) in a liquid fatty phase.

By "insoluble UV filter" is meant any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound filtering UV radiation having a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in most organic solvents such as paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol 812® marketed by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL. This solubility, achieved at 70°C, is defined as the quantity of product in solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of solid in suspension after returning to room temperature. It can easily be assessed in the laboratory.

The organic UV screening agents are chosen in particular from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in US Pat. No. 5,624,663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic compounds (PABA); methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in applications US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; screening polymers and screening silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93/04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1133980 and EP133981 and mixtures thereof.

Examples of organic photoprotective agents include those designated below by their INCI name.

Cinnamic compounds:
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL MCX ® by DSM Nutritial Products,
Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate,
Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 ® by Symrise,
DEA Methoxycinnamate,
Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate,
Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate.

Dibenzoylmethane compounds :
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL 1789 ® by DSM Nutritial Products,
Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane.

Para-aminobenzoic compounds :
PABA,
Ethyl PABA,
Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA,
Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name "ESCALOL 507®" by ISP,
Glyceryl PABA,
PEG-25 PABA sold under the name “UVINUL P 25®” by BASF.

Salicylic compounds:
Homosalate sold under the name "Eusolex HMS®" by Rona/EM Industries,
Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name “NEO HELIOPAN OS®” by Symrise,
Dipropylene glycol Salicylate sold under the name "DIPSAL ®" by SCHER,
TEA Salicylate, sold under the name “NEO HELIOPAN TS®” by Symrise.

Compounds β,β - diphenylacrylate :
Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL N 539®" by BASF,
Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL N 35®” by BASF.

Benzophenone compounds:
Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name “UVINUL 400®” by BASF,
Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name “UVINUL D 50®” by BASF,
Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name “UVINUL M 40®” by BASF,
Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name “UVINUL MS 40®” by BASF,
Benzophenone-5,
Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name “Helisorb 11®” by Norquay,
Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name “Spectra-Sorb UV-24®” by American Cyanamid,
Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name “UVINUL DS 49®” by BASF,
Benzophenone-12,
n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate sold under the trade name "UVINUL A Plus ®" or in a mixture with octylmethoxycinnamate under the trade name "UVINUL A Plus B®" by the company BASF ,
1,1'-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone (CAS 919803-06-8) as described in application WO2007/ 071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 μm) which can be obtained for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in the form of aqueous dispersion.

Benzylidene Camphor Compounds :
3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SD®” by CHIMEX,
4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name “EUSOLEX 6300®” by MERCK,
Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SL®” by CHIMEX,
Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SO®” by CHIMEX,
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SX®” by CHIMEX,
Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SW®” by CHIMEX.

Compounds phenyl benzimidazole :
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name “EUSOLEX 232®” by MERCK.

Bis- benzoazolyl compounds :
Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate sold under the trade name “NEO HELIOPAN AP®” by Haarmann and REIMER.

Compounds phenyl benzotriazole :
Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name “Silatrizole®” by RHODIA CHIMIE.

Methylene bis compounds -( hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole ):
Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, in particular in solid form such as the product sold under the trade name "MIXXIM BB/100 ®" by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size which varies from 0.01 to 5 μm and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 μm and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant of structure C_notH_2n+1O(C₆H₁₀O₅)_xH in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C₆H₁₀O₅) and varies from 1.4 to 1.6 as described in patent GB-A-2 303 549 in particular sold under the trade name "TINOSORB M®" by BASF or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average size of the particles which varies from 0.02 to 2 μm and more preferentially from 0.01 to 1.5 μm and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 μm in the presence of at least one mono-(C₈-VS₂₀) polyglycerol alkyl ester having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5 such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO2009/063392.

Triazine compounds :
- 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-1,2,4-triazine), INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl triazine, with the following chemical formula: - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name “TINOSORB S®” by BASF,
- Ethylhexyl Triazone sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL T 150®” by BASF,
- Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name "UVASORB HEB ®" by SIGMA 3V,
- 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino dineopentyl benzalmalonate)-s-triazine,
- 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino benzalmalonate diisobutyl)-s-triazine,
- 2,4-bis-(4'-aminobenzoate of n-butyl)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine,
- 2,4-bis-(4'-aminobenzalmalonate of dineopentyl)-6-(4'-aminobenzoate of n-butyl)-s-triazine,
- symmetrical triazine filters substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in patent US6,225,467, application WO2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004) in particular 2,4,6-tris(di-phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine which is included in the patent applications WO06/035000, WO06/034982, WO06/034991, WO06/035007, WO2006/034992, WO2006/034985, these compounds being advantageously used in micronized form (average particle size from 0.02 to 3 μm) obtainable for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in aqueous dispersion form,
- triazine silicones substituted with two aminobenzoate groups as described in patent EP0841341, in particular 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{1,3,3,3- tetramethyl-1-[(trimethyl¬silyl¬oxy]-disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine.

Anthranil compounds :
Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name "NEO HELIOPAN MA®" by Symrise.

Imidazoline compounds :
Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate.

Benzalmalonate compounds :
Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name “PARSOL SLX®” by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE.

4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds:
1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.

Benzoxazole compounds :
2,4-bis-[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazine sold as 'Uvasorb K2A® by Sigma 3V.

The preferred organic filters are chosen from:
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate,
Ethylhexyl Salicylate,
Homosalate,
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,
Octocrylene,
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulphonic Acid,
Benzophenone-3,
Benzophenone-4,
Benzophenone-5,
n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate,
4-Methylbenzylidene camphor,
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,
Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate,
Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol,
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Ethylhexyl Triazone,
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,
2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino dineopentyl benzalmalonate)-s-triazine,
2,4,6-tris-(diisobutyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate)-s-triazine,
2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine,
2,4-Bis-(Dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-Butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine,
2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyl-oxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s- triazine,
2,4,6-tris-(di-phenyl)-triazine,
2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine
Drometrizole Trisiloxane,
Polysilicon-15,
1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene,
2,4-bis-[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazine,
and their mixtures.

The particularly preferred organic screening agents are chosen from:
Ethylhexyl Salicylate,
Homosalate,
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,
Octocrylene,
n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate,
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulphonic Acid,
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,
Ethylhexyl Triazone,
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,
2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyl-oxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s- triazine,
Drometrizole Trisiloxane,
and their mixtures.

According to a first particular embodiment, the organic UV filters are chosen from:
Ethylhexyl Salicylate,
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulphonic Acid,
Octocrylene,
Ethylhexyl Triazone,
and their mixtures.

According to a second particular embodiment, the organic UV filters are chosen from:
Ethylhexyl Salicylate,
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulphonic Acid,
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,
Ethylhexyl Triazone,
and their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment, the organic UV filters are chosen from:
Ethylhexyl Salicylate,
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,
Ethylhexyl Triazone,
and their mixtures.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of octocrylene. The term "free of octocrylene" means a composition containing less than 1% by weight, or even less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of octocrylene.

The organic UV screening agents may be present in the composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional UV filters

The composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one inorganic UV screening agent.

The inorganic UV filters used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferentially, the inorganic UV screening agents of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size less than or equal to 0.5 μm, more preferentially comprised between 0.005 and 0.5 μm, and even more preferentially comprised between 0.01 and 0.2 μm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 μm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 μm.

They may be chosen in particular from titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium and cerium oxides or mixtures thereof.

Such metal oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, mention may be made of the products sold by the companies SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS, TAYCA, MERCK AND DEGUSSA.

Metal oxide pigments can be coated or uncoated.

Coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin) , alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

The coated pigments are more particularly coated titanium oxides:
- silica such as the products "SUNVEIL®" from the company IKEDA, "SUNSIL TIN 50" from the company SUNJIN BEAUTY SCIENCE,
- silica and iron oxide such as the "SUNVEIL F®" product from IKEDA,
- silica and alumina such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA®" and "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA" from the company TAYCA, "TIOVEIL" from the company TIOXIDE,
- alumina such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)®" and "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A)®" from ISHIHARA, and "UVT 14/4" from SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS,
- alumina and aluminum stearate such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 T®, MT 100 TX®, MT 100 Z®, MT-01®" from the company TAYCA, the products "Solaveil CT-10 W ®" and "Solaveil CT 100®" from UNIQEMA and the product "Eusolex T-AVO®" from MERCK,
- silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100 AQ®" from the company TAYCA,
- alumina and aluminum laurate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S®" from the company TAYCA,

- iron oxide and iron stearate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F®" from the company TAYCA,
- zinc oxide and zinc stearate such as the product "BR 351®" from the company TAYCA,
- silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS®", "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SAS®" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS®" from the company TAYCA,
- silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone such as the product "STT-30-DS®" from TITAN KOGYO,
- silica and treated with a silicone such as the product "UV-TITAN X 195®" from the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS,
- alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (S)®" from ISHIHARA, or "UV TITAN M 262®" from SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS,
- triethanolamine such as the product "STT-65-S" from TITAN KOGYO,
- stearic acid such as the product "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C)®" from ISHIHARA,
- sodium hexametaphosphate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W®" from the company TAYCA,
- TiO2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane sold under the trade name "T 805®" by the company DEGUSSA SILICES,
- TiO2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane sold under the trade name "70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3®" by the company CARDRE,
- anatase/rutile TiO2 treated with a polydimethylhydrogensiloxane sold under the trade name "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE USP GRADE HYDROPHOBIC®" by the company COLOR TECHNIQUES,
- TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate, alumina sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-200-LQ-(WD) from CRODA,
- TiO2 coated with aluminum stearate, alumina and silicone sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-12W-LQ- (WD from CRODA),
- TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name LL 5 Titanium Dioxyde CR 50,
- TiO2 coated with C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminum hydroxide sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name PFX-5 TiO2 CR-50.

Mention may also be made of TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, manganese and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides, including those of capric/caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may additionally comprise one or more dispersing agents such as, for example, a sorbitan ester such as sorbitan isostearate, a polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol ester such as TRI-PPG3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersing agent chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol esters. Mention may be made more particularly of the oily dispersion of particles of TiO2 doped with manganese in the triglyceride of capric/caprylic acid in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE and SORBITAN ISOSTERATE with the INCI name: TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 RICINOLEATE (and) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE like the product sold under the trade name OPTISOL TD50 ® by the company CRODA.

The uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company TAYCA under the trade names "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B®", by the company DEGUSSA under the name "P 25", by the company WACKHER under the name "Transparent titanium oxide PW®", by the company MIYOSHI KASEI under the name "UFTR®", by the company TOMEN under the name "ITS®" and by the company TIOXIDE under the name "TIOVEIL AQ ".

Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
- those marketed under the name "Z-cote" by the company Sunsmart;
- those marketed under the name "Nanox®" by the company Elementis;
- those marketed under the name "Nanogard WCD 2025®" by the company Nanophase Technologies.

Examples of coated zinc oxide pigments are:
- those marketed under the name "Oxide zinc CS-5®" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogensiloxane);
- those marketed under the name "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN®" by the company Nanophase Technologies (dispersed at 40% in Finsolv TN®, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alcohol benzoate);
- those marketed under the name "DAITOPERSION Zn-30®" and "DAITOPERSION Zn-50®" by the company Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane/oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane, containing 30% or 50% of zinc oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrogensiloxane);
- those marketed under the name “NFD Ultrafine ZnO®” by the company Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl in dispersion in cyclopentasiloxane);
- those marketed under the name "SPD-Z1®" by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane);
- those marketed under the name “Escalol Z100®” by the company ISP (ZnO treated with alumina and dispersed in the ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate/PVP-hexadecene/methicone copolymer mixture);
- those marketed under the name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10®" by the company Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane);
- those marketed under the name "Nanox Gel TN®" by the company Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alcohol benzoate with polycondensate of hydroxystearic acid).

The uncoated cerium oxide pigments can be, for example, those sold under the name "COLLOIDAL CERIUM OXIDE®" by the company RHONE POULENC.

Uncoated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by the company ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2002® (FE 45B®)", "NANOGARD IRON FE 45 BL AQ", "NANOGARD FE 45R AQ®, "NANOGARD WCD 2006 ® (FE 45R®)", or by the company MITSUBISHI under the name "TY-220®".

The coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by the company ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)®", "NANOGARD WCD 2009® (FE 45B 556®)", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345 ®", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL®", or by the company BASF under the name "OXIDE DE FER TRANSPARENT®".

Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the equal weight mixture of silica-coated titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL A ®", as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product "M 261®" sold by the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS or coated with alumina, silica and of glycerin such as the product "M 211®" sold by the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS.

According to the invention, titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred.
When they are present in the composition in accordance with the invention, the mineral UV screening agents are advantageously present at a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Superabsorbent polymers

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer.

The term "superabsorbent polymer" means a polymer which is capable in its dry state of spontaneously absorbing at least 20 times its own weight of aqueous fluid, in particular water and in particular distilled water. Such superabsorbent polymers are described in the book "Absorbent polymer technology, Studies in polymer science 8" by L. BRAN NON-PAPPAS and R. HARLAND, Elsevier edition, 1990.

These polymers have a high capacity for absorption and retention of water and aqueous fluids. After absorption of the aqueous liquid, the particles of the polymer thus soaked in aqueous fluid remain insoluble in the aqueous fluid and thus retain their individualized particulate state.

The superabsorbent polymer can have a water absorption capacity ranging from 20 to 2000 times its own weight (i.e. 20 g to 2000 g of water absorbed per gram of absorbent polymer), preferably from 30 to 1500 times, and better from 50 to 1000 times. These water absorption characteristics are defined under normal conditions of temperature (25°C) and pressure (760 mm Hg or 100,000 Pa) and for distilled water. The value of the water absorption capacity of a polymer can be determined by dispersing 0.5 g of polymer(s) in 150 g of a water solution, waiting 20 minutes, filtering the solution not absorbed on a 150 µm filter for 20 minutes and weighing the unabsorbed water.

The superabsorbent polymer used in the composition of the invention is in the form of particles. Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer has, in the dry or non-hydrated state, an average size less than or equal to 100 μm, preferably less than or equal to 50 μm, ranging for example from 1 to 100 μm, preferably from 5 to 50 µm and better from 7 to 30 µm.

The average size of the particles corresponds to the average diameter by mass (D50) measured by laser granulometry or another equivalent method known to those skilled in the art. These particles, once hydrated, swell, forming soft particles having an average size that can range from 10 μm to 1000 μm.

The superabsorbent polymers according to the invention are starches grafted with an acrylic polymer. The acrylic polymer can be a homopolymer or a copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate. Such polymers have gelling properties and a feel similar to that conferred by a silicone compound (“silicone-like” feel).

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the superabsorbent polymer(s) used comprise from 85 to 95% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and from 5 to 15% by weight of starch. Preferably, they consist of 90% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and 10% by weight of starch.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the molecular weight of the superabsorbent polymer(s) used is greater than 1000 daltons.

Mention may in particular be made of starches grafted with an acrylic polymer and in particular with sodium polyacrylate, such as those marketed under the name Sanfresh ST-100MC by the company Sanyo Chemical Industries or Makimousse 25 or Makimousse 12 or Makimousse 7 by the company Daito Kasei (INCI name Sodium polyacrylate Starch).

The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention can be crosslinked or uncrosslinked.

The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention are preferably starches grafted with an acrylic homo- or copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate, which are in particulate form.

Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer is chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic homopolymer, preferably in the form of particles having an average size (or average diameter) of less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably still in the form of particles.

The superabsorbent polymer(s) may be present in the composition of the invention in an active material content ranging, for example, from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.15% to 2% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Perlite

The composition in accordance with the invention comprises perlite.

Perlite is in particular in the form of particles.

Perlite is a natural glass of volcanic origin, light gray or shiny black, resulting from the rapid cooling of lava and which appears in the form of small pearl-like particles.

The perlites which can be used according to the invention are generally aluminosilicates of volcanic origin and advantageously have the composition:
70.0-75.0 wt% silica SiO2,
12.0-15.0 wt% aluminum oxide Al2O3,
3.0-5.0% sodium oxide Na2O,
3.0-5.0% potassium oxide K2O,
0.5-2% iron oxide Fe2O3,
0.2-0.7% magnesium oxide MgO,
0.5-1.5% calcium oxide CaO, and
0.05-0.15% titanium oxide TiO2.

Preferably, the perlite particles used according to the invention are in porous expanded form.

The perlite is crushed, dried and then calibrated in a first step. The product obtained, called Perlite Ore, is gray in color and has a size of the order of 100 μm. The Perlite Ore is then expanded (1000°C/2 seconds) to give more or less white particles. When the temperature reaches 850-900°C, the water trapped in the structure of the material vaporizes and causes the material to expand from its original volume. The expanded perlite particles in accordance with the invention can be obtained by the expansion process described in US Pat. No. 5,002,698.

Preferably, the perlite particles used are ground; in this case they are called Expanded Milled Perlite (EMP).

They preferably have a particle size defined by a median diameter D50 ranging from 0.5 to 50 μm, and preferably from 0.5 to 40 μm.

Preferably, the perlite particles according to the invention have a particle size distribution such that at least 50% of the particles have a size of less than 20 μm. In addition, they preferably have a particle size distribution such that 90% by weight of the particles have a size of less than 55 μm, and preferably a size of less than 40 μm. It is also preferred that 90% by weight of the particles have a size greater than 5 μm.

According to a particular embodiment, the perlite particles used in the context of the invention have an unpacked apparent density at 25° C. ranging from 10 and 400 kg/m3 (DIN 53468 standard), and preferably from 10 and 300 kg/ ^m3 .

In particular, the expanded perlite particles sold under the trade names OPTIMAT 1430 OR® or OPTIMAT 2550® by the company WORLD MINERALS or the commercial products GK-110 THIN® and GK-110 EXTRA THIN® by the company LANGFANG XINDAZHONG FILTER and HENAN ZHONGNAN FILTER AID company.

The mass content of perlite in the composition in accordance with the invention is advantageously from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mass ratio between the perlite and the superabsorbent polymer (quantity by weight of perlite/quantity by weight of superabsorbent polymer) is between 0.5 and 7, and preferably between 1 and 5.

fatty alcohols

The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohol.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the fatty alcohol(s) are saturated or unsaturated, linear, and contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

Preferably, within the meaning of the invention, the fatty alcohols are solid.

The fatty alcohol(s) suitable for the invention may be chosen from the group comprising cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl stearyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, heptadecyl alcohol, arachidic alcohol, behenic alcohol and myricyl alcohol; preferably they are chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl stearyl alcohol and behenic alcohol.

As cetyl alcohol which is most particularly suitable for the invention, it is possible, for example, to use those sold under the names ECOROL® 16/98 P/MB and ECOROL® 16/98 P by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals, LANETTE® 16 by the company BASF, VEGAROL® 1698 by VVF, ALKONAT® 1698 P by Oxiteno, CETYL ALCOHOL 98% MIN by Emery Oleochemicals, GINOL® 16 (98%) by Godrej Industries, NACOL® 16-98 by Sasol , KALCOL® 6098 by Kao and THAIOL 1698 by THAI FATTY ALCOHOLS.

As stearyl alcohol which is most particularly suitable for the invention, it is possible, for example, to use those sold under the names ECOROL® 18/98 P/MB and ECOROL® 18/98 P by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals, LANETTE® 18 by the company BASF, KALCOL® 8098 by the Kao company, NACOL® 18-98 by the Sasol company and VEGAROL® 1898 by the VVF company.

As cetyl stearyl alcohol which is most particularly suitable for the invention, it is possible, for example, to use those sold under the names ECOROL® 68/50 and ECOROL® 68/50 P by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals, LANETTE® O OR and LANETTE® O OR/ MB by BASF, ALKONAT® 1618 C50 P by Oxiteno, NAFOL® 16-18 EN by Sasol, ALCOHOL CETOESTEARILICO 50/50 by Industria Quimica Del Centro, CETYL STEARYL ALCOHOL 50:50 by EMERY OLEOCHEMICALS, KALCOL® 6850 by the company Kao, VEGAROL® 1618 (50:50) by the company VVF and GINOL® 1618 50:50 OR by the company Godrej Industries.

As behenyl alcohol which is most particularly suitable for the invention, it is possible, for example, to use those sold under the name LANETTE 22 by the company BASF, VEGAROL® 2270 by the company VVF, NAFOL® 18-22 by the company Sasol.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a fatty alcohol content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 2.0% to 6.0% by weight relative to the total weight of composition.
Additives
Lower alcohols

According to a particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention additionally comprises at least one C ₁ -C ₄ alcohol.

The lower C ₁ -C ₄ alcohol(s) used in the context of the invention can be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol. Preferably, the alcohol used is ethanol.

The content of C ₁ -C ₄ alcohols, when they are present, is between 2% and 10% by weight, preferably between 3% and 7% by weight, better still between 4% and 5% by weight with respect to to the total weight of the composition.
Expenses

The composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one organic filler.

In the present application, the term “organic filler” means any organic solid that is insoluble in the medium at ambient temperature (25° C.).

The term "organic" means any compound or polymer whose chemical structure comprises at least one or more carbon atoms.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises an N-acylated amino acid powder.

The N-acylated amino acid(s) may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine.

Advantageously, the N-acylated amino acid powder can be a lauroyl lysine powder.

The N-acylated amino acid powder may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The mass ratio between the N-acylated amino acid powder and the perlite (quantity by weight of N-acylated amino acid powder/quantity by weight of perlite) is advantageously between 1 and 5, preferably between 1 and 3 .

The mass ratio between the N-acylated amino acid powder and the superabsorbent polymer (quantity by weight of N-acylated amino acid powder/quantity by weight of superabsorbent polymer) can be between 0.5 and 20, it is preferably between 1 and 15.

Hydrophilic polymers of AMPS

According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic polymer comprising at least one acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one homopolymer or copolymer, crosslinked or non-crosslinked, comprising at least the monomer acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid (AMPS®), in free form or in partially or totally neutralized by a mineral base (soda, potash, ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di-, or tri-ethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methyl-glucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, as well as the mixture of these compounds.

They are preferably totally neutralized or practically totally neutralized, that is to say neutralized to at least 90%.

These AMPS® polymers according to the invention can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

By cross-linked polymer is meant a non-linear polymer in the state of a three-dimensional network that is insoluble in water but swellable in water and leading to the production of a chemical gel.

When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

Mention may be made, for example, as crosslinking agents, of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol-diallyl ether, polyglycol-diallyl ethers, triethyleneglycol-divinyl ether, hydroquinone-diallyl-ether, ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate or tetraethylene glycol, diallyl urea, trimethylol propane triacrylate, methylene-bis-acrylamide, methylene-bis-methacrylamide, triallyl amine, triallylcyanurate, diallylmaleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetra-allyloxy-ethane, trimethylolpropane-diallyl ether , allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or other allyl- or vinyl-ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, as well as allyl esters of derivatives of phosphoric acid and / or vinylphosphonic, or mixtures of these compounds.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01% to 10% by mole, and more particularly from 0.2% to 2% by mole relative to the polymer.

According to the invention, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomers preferably correspond to the following general formula: in which X+ denotes a cationic counterion, in particular an alkali or alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium, preferably ammonium, or a mixture of cations; R1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical such as methyl, preferably R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom.

Preferably, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer(s) according to the invention are partially or totally salified in the form of an ammonium salt.

Preferably, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer(s) according to the invention are totally salified, preferably in the form of an ammonium salt.

The AMPS® polymers suitable for the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. They are in this case:
- either “homopolymers” comprising only AMPS monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above;
- or copolymers obtained from AMPS® and one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above. When said copolymers contain hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, the latter may or may not contain fatty chains.

According to a first particular embodiment, in the copolymer(s) obtained from AMPS® and one or more hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above, the hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers do not contain a fatty chain and are preferably present in small amounts.

According to a second particular embodiment, in the copolymer(s) obtained from AMPS® and one or more hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above, the hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers contain at least one fatty chain.

The term “fatty chain”, within the meaning of the present invention, means any hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 7 carbon atoms.

By “water-soluble or water-dispersible”, we mean polymers which, introduced into an aqueous phase at 25° C., at a mass concentration equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, that is to say having a maximum transmittance value of light, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 60%, preferably of at least 70%.

The "homopolymers" according to the invention are preferably crosslinked and neutralized, and they can be obtained according to the preparation process comprising the following steps:
(A) the monomer such as AMPS is dispersed or dissolved in the free form in a solution of tert-butanol or of water and tert-butanol;
(b) the monomer solution or dispersion obtained in (a) is neutralized with one or more inorganic or organic bases, preferably aqueous ammonia NH ₃ , in an amount making it possible to obtain a degree of neutralization of the sulphonic acid functions of the polymer ranging from 90% to 100%;
(c) the crosslinking monomer or monomers are added to the solution or dispersion obtained in (b);
(d) conventional radical polymerization is carried out in the presence of free radical initiators at a temperature ranging from 10°C to 150°C; the polymer precipitating in the solution or the dispersion based on tert-butanol.

The water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS® according to the invention contain water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers or mixtures thereof.

The water-soluble comonomers can be ionic or non-ionic.

Among the ionic water-soluble comonomers, mention may be made, for example, of the following compounds and their salts:
- (meth)acrylic acid,
- styrene sulfonic acid,
- vinylsulfonic acid and (meth)allylsulfonic acid,
- vinyl phosphonic acid,
- maleic acid,
- itaconic acid,
- crotonic acid,
- water-soluble vinyl monomers of the following formula: in which :
- R ₁ is chosen from H, -CH ₃ , -C ₂ H ₅ or -C ₃ H ₇ ;
- X ₁ is chosen from:
- alkyl oxides of the -OR ₂ type where R ₂ is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted by at least one sulphonic group (-SO ₃ ^- ) and /or sulfate (SO ₄ ^- ) and/or phosphate (-PO ₄ H ₂ ).

Among the non-ionic water-soluble comonomers, mention may be made in particular of:
- (meth)acrylamide,
- N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl N-vinylacetamide,
- N-vinylformamide and N-methyl N-vinylformamide,
- maleic anhydride,
- vinylamine,
- N-vinyllactams comprising a cyclic alkyl group having from 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,
- vinyl alcohol of formula CH ₂ =CHOH,
- water-soluble vinyl monomers of the following formula: in which :
- R ₃ is chosen from H, -CH ₃ , -C ₂ H ₅ or -C ₃ H ₇ ;
- X ₂ is chosen from alkyl oxides of -OR ₄ type where R ₄ is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbons, optionally substituted by a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine, fluorine); a hydroxy group (-OH); ether.

Examples include glycidyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol (meth)acrylates.

Among the hydrophobic co-monomers without fatty chain, mention may be made, for example:
- styrene and its derivatives such as 4-butylstyrene, alpha methylstyrene and vinyltoluene;
- vinyl acetate of formula CH ₂ =CH-OCOCH ₃ ;
- vinyl ethers of formula CH ₂ =CHOR in which R is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- acrylonitrile;
- caprolactone;
- vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride;
- silicone derivatives, leading after polymerization to silicone polymers such as methacryloxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane and silicone methacrylamides;
- hydrophobic vinyl monomers of the following formula: in which :
- R ₄ is chosen from H, -CH ₃ , -C ₂ H ₅ or -C ₃ H ₇ ;
- X ₃ is chosen from:
- alkyl oxides of -OR ₅ type where R ₅ is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

Examples include methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate and isobornyl acrylate and 2-hexyl ethyl acrylate.

The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® polymers of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g/mole to 10,000,000 g/mole, preferably from 80,000 g/mole to 8,000,000 g/mole, and even more preferably from 100,000 g/mole to 7,000,000 g/mole.

As water-soluble or water-dispersible homopolymers of AMPS suitable for the invention, mention may be made, for example, of the crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked polymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate (INCI name: AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE) such as those described in patent EP 0 815 928 B1 and such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS® by Clariant.

As preferred water-soluble or water-dispersible homopolymers of AMPS in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of crosslinked polymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate.

As water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS in accordance with the invention, mention may be made, for example:
- sodium acrylamide/acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate crosslinked copolymers such as that used in the commercial product SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/C ₁₃ -C ₁₄ Isoparaffin/Laureth-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate-80) by the company Seppic;
- copolymers of AMPS® and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC® by the company Clariant (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer) but neutralized with soda or potash ;
- copolymers of AMPS® and sodium acrylate, such as for example the AMPS/sodium acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel EG® by the company Seppic or under the trade name Sepinov EM (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer);
- AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers, such as for example the AMPS®/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS® by the company Seppic (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (And) Squalane (And) Polysorbate 60) or like the product marketed under the name Sodium Acrylamido-2-Methyl propane Sulfonate/Hydroxyethylacrylate copolymer like the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer ).

As preferred water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of the copolymers of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate.

Among the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers which can be used in the context of the invention, mention may also be made of the copolymers comprising at least one monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®), at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group and at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer not comprising a hydrophobic group.

Preferably, when the water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymer of AMPS comprises at least one monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulphonic acid (AMPS®), at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group and at least one monomer with ethylenic unsaturation not comprising no hydrophobic group, the hydrophobic group is a hydrocarbon fatty chain comprising 6 to 50 carbon atoms, branched or not, saturated or unsaturated.

The copolymer(s) can be crosslinked in the presence of a crosslinking agent.

Preferably, the AMPS® copolymer(s) are crosslinked with a crosslinking agent, and even more preferably they are crosslinked with trimethylol propane triacrylate.

The AMPS® copolymer(s) comprise at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group which is preferably an ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one fatty hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, preferentially from 6 to 22 and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

The monomer with a hydrophobic group is preferably chosen from acrylates or acrylamides of the following formula: in which R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical, preferably methyl; Y denotes O or NH; R ₂ denotes a hydrocarbon radical comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms and more preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and even more preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; x denotes a number ranging from 0 to 100.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in formula 6, Y denotes an oxygen atom.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in formula 6, the group R1 represents a methyl.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, x represents an integer between 3 and 25, preferably x is equal to 4.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in formula 6, the group R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

According to an even more preferred embodiment of the invention, in formula 6, Y denotes an oxygen atom, the group R1 represents a methyl, the group R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and x represents an integer between 3 and 25, preferably x is equal to 4.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic monomer of formula 6 is tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate (4EO), corresponding to the compound of formula 6 in which the group Y denotes O, the group R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising 12 carbon atoms and x is 4.

Preferably, the monomer with a hydrophobic group is tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the AMPS® copolymer may comprise at least one monomer of formula 6 in which x is equal to 0, with Y representing an oxygen atom, the group R ₁ representing a methyl , the group R ₂ represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

In this embodiment, the monomer with a hydrophobic group is preferably lauryl methacrylate.

According to a particular embodiment, the AMPS® copolymer comprises at least one monomer of formula 6 in which x is equal to 0, with Y preferably denoting an oxygen atom, the group R ₁ representing a methyl, the group R ₂ represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms and at least one monomer of formula 6 in which Y denotes an oxygen atom, the R ₁ group represents a methyl, the R ₂ group represents an alkyl radical comprising 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and x represents an integer between 3 and 25, preferably x is equal to 4.

Preferably, the AMPS® copolymer comprises, as monomers with a hydrophobic group, lauryl methacrylate and tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.

The AMPS® copolymer(s) also comprise at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer not comprising any hydrophobic group preferably corresponding to the following general formula: in which R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, preferably R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom, R ₂ denotes a linear or branched C ₁ -C alkyl radical ₄ and R ₃ denote a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, preferably R ₂ and R ₃ denote a methyl.

The ethylenically unsaturated monomer not comprising a hydrophobic group is chosen from (meth)acrylamides such as acrylamide, (meth)acrylic acids and their esters ((meth)acrylates) such as (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate ), vinyl pyrrolidone, N-(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkylacrylamides, N,N-di(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkylacrylamide such as N,N-dimethyl acrylamide.

Preferably, the ethylenically unsaturated monomer not comprising any hydrophobic group is N,N-dimethylacrylamide.

Preferably, the AMPS® copolymer is chosen from copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulphonic acid, preferably totally salified, of N,N-dimethylacrylamide, of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate and of lauryl methacrylate, of preferably crosslinked, such as for example the copolymer marketed under the name Sepimax zen by the company Seppic, and under the INCI name Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6.

The AMPS® polymer(s) described above may be present in concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight and even more preferably from 0.5 to 2 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition does not comprise any additional hydrophilic polymer.

In this embodiment, the concentration of superabsorbent polymer is advantageously between 1 and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one additional hydrophilic polymer chosen from homo and AMPS copolymers as described previously.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises the combination of an AMPS homopolymer and an AMPS copolymer.

In these embodiments, the concentration of superabsorbent polymer is advantageously between 0.1 and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the concentration of additional hydrophilic polymer(s) is advantageously comprised between 0.1 and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and the mass ratio between the superabsorbent polymer and the additional hydrophilic polymer(s) (quantity by weight of superabsorbent polymer/quantity by weight of hydrophilic polymer(s) ( s) additional(s)) is between 0.2 and 1.

Oil phase

The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one oily phase.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “oily phase” means a phase comprising at least one oil and all the liposoluble and lipophilic ingredients and fatty substances used for the formulation of the compositions of the invention.

By oil is meant any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20 – 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

The oily phase may comprise, in addition to the lipophilic screening agent(s) and the fatty alcohol(s) according to the invention, at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and/or a volatile and or non-volatile silicone oil and/or a volatile fluorinated oil. and or non-volatile.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si—O group.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen. Thus these oils may in particular contain one or more carboxy, ester, ether or hydroxy functions.

The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

By “volatile oil” is meant, within the meaning of the invention, an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fiber in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil or oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^{- 3} to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm of Hg).

By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10 ^-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa) .

As non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of:
(i) hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as triesters of glycerides which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol whose fatty acids can have chain lengths varying from C ₄ to C ₂₄ , the latter possibly be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheat germ, sunflower, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean oil, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bankoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel;
(ii) synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
(iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof;
(iv) synthetic esters such as oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' is ≥ 10, such as Purcellin's oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, benzoate of C ₁₂ -C alcohols ₁₅ as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN®" or "Witconol TN®" by the company WITCO or "TEGOSOFT TN ®" by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate as the commercial product sold under the name “X-TEND 226®” by ISP Company, Isopropyl Lanolate, Hexyl Laurate, Diisopropyl Adipate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Oleyl Erucate, 2-Ethyl Palmitate -hexyl, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name from “Dub Dis” by the company Stearinerie Dubois, isopropyl isostearate such as the product sold under the name Jolee 7739 by the company OLEON; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates such as linear C ₁₂ -C ₁₃ di-alkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI® by the company ENICHEM AUGUSTA INDUSTRIALE as well as linear C ₁₄ -C ₁₅ di-alkyl tartrates such as than those sold under the name COSMACOL ETL® by the same company; acetates;
(v) fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;
(vi) higher C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;
(vii) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate such as the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC®” by the company Cognis;
and their mixtures.

Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils which can be used according to the invention, preference will be given more particularly to glyceride triesters and in particular the triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, synthetic esters and in particular diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol. Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils are chosen from diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate.

As volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes such as C ₈ -C ₁₆ isoalkanes of petroleum origin. (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permetyls, esters branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ , iso-hexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO2008/155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes and different from at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from copra or palm oil. mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (C ₁₁ ) and n-tridecane (C ₁₃ ) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008/155059 from the company Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C ₁₂ ) and n-tetradecane (C ₁₄ ) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97®, as well as their mixtures.

Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt® by the company SHELL, can also be used. According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures.

The non-volatile silicone oils can be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, silicones phenyl such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity ≤ 8 centistokes (8.10 ^-6 m ² /s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may in particular be made of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of volatile alkyltrisiloxane linear oils of the following formula:
where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and of which one or more hydrogen atoms may be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.

Among the oils of formula 8, mention may be made of:
3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane,
3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, and
3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane,
corresponding to the oils of formula 8 for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group.

It is also possible to use fluorinated volatile oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof.

An oily phase according to the invention may also comprise, mixed with or dissolved in the oil, other fatty substances.

Another fatty substance which may be present in the oily phase may be, for example:
- a fatty acid chosen from fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;
- a wax chosen from waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, rice bran wax, paraffin or lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite , synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes;
- a gum chosen from silicone gums (dimethiconol),
- a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives,
- and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the overall oily phase, including all the lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase, including the lipophilic screening agents, represents from 5 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase contains water, and optionally other water-soluble or water-miscible organic solvents.

An aqueous phase suitable for the invention may comprise, for example, water chosen from natural spring water, such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel, water from Saint Gervais Mont Blanc, or Vichy waters, or a floral water.

Soluble or water-miscible solvents suitable for the invention include, in addition to short-chain alcohols as defined above, diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3 -butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol, and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a quantity of glycerin of less than 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular form of the invention, the overall aqueous phase, including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase, represents from 5 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 80% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Dosage forms

The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art. They may in particular be in the form of an emulsion, simple or complex (O/W, W/O, O/W/O or W/O/W) such as a cream, a milk or a cream gel .

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion. It may in particular be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (direct emulsion) or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (inverse emulsion). Preferably, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

In the case of compositions in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, the emulsification processes that can be used are of the paddle or propeller, rotor-stator and HHP type.

To obtain stable emulsions with a low polymer content (oil/polymer ratio >25), it is possible to make the dispersion in the concentrated phase then to dilute the dispersion with the rest of the aqueous phase.

It is also possible, by HHP (between 50 and 800 bars), to obtain stable dispersions with drop sizes down to 100 nm.

The emulsions can generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are chosen appropriately according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W).

As an example of W/O emulsifying surfactants, mention may be made of alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol, glycerol or sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C®" by the company Dow Corning, and alkyl-dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name " Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the Dow Corning Company; cetyl dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R® by the company Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE O9 ® by Goldschmidt. One or more co-emulsifiers can also be added thereto, which, advantageously, can be chosen from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters.

Mention may also be made of non-silicone emulsifying surfactants, in particular alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol or sugars.

As polyol alkyl esters, mention may in particular be made of polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel P135® by the company ICI.

As glycerol and/or sorbitan esters, mention may be made, for example, of polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Isolan GI 34® by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 987® by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 986® by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.

For O/W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as nonionic emulsifying surfactants of polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol esters (more particularly polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylene) such as the polyethylene glycol ester and stearic acid of INCI name PEG-100 STEARATE marketed under the name Myrj S100-PA-(SG) by the company CRODA; oxyalkylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters; polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (in particular polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylene) optionally in combination with a fatty acid and glycerol ester, such as the PEG-100 Stearate/Glyceryl Stearate mixture marketed for example by the company ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, in particular alkylpolyglucosides (APG) such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside marketed for example by the company Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000® and Plantaren 1200®, cetostearylglucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name Montanov 68® by the company Seppic, under the name Tegocare CG90® by the company Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302® by the company Henkel, as well as arachidyl glucoside, for example under the form of the mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and of arachidylglucoside marketed under the name Montanov 202® by the company Seppic. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol can be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described for example in document WO- A-92/06778.

When it is an emulsion, the aqueous phase thereof may comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known methods (Bangham, Standish and Watkins. J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).

The compositions according to the invention find their application in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetic, of the skin, the lips and the hair, including the scalp, in particular for the protection and/or the care of the skin, the lips and/or the hair, and/or for making up the skin and/or the lips.

Another object of the present invention consists of the use of the compositions according to the invention as defined above for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and/or the scalp, in particular care products, sun protection products and make-up products.

Examples

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without however being limiting. In these examples, the amounts of the composition ingredients are given in % by weight of raw materials relative to the total weight of the composition.

Sensory evaluation

For each of the following compositions, the cosmetic properties were evaluated according to the following protocol.

The cosmetic properties on application are assessed, monadically, by a panel of experts trained in the description of skincare products. The sensory evaluation of skincare products by this panel is carried out as follows: the products are packaged in jars. Within the same session, the samples are presented in randomized order for each panelist. 10 experts first evaluate the grip and flexibility in the pot. They then place a drop of product (0.05 mL) on the back of the hand and assess the stickiness after a few seconds of penetration, the lightness and softness on application, the fatness (amount of film former on the fingers) and the fondant.

The descriptors are evaluated on a scale noted from 1 to 5: 1 = not, 2 = little, 3 = moderately, 4 = quite, 5 = very.

Stability study

The stability of the compositions is evaluated macroscopically (Appearance, Color, Odor, pH and viscosity) and microscopically at 1 month and at 2 months at 45°C.

Example 1 – Compositions 1 to 5

The following compositions are prepared. Composition 1 (comparative) 2 (comparative) 3 (comparative) 4 (invention) 5
(invention) Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Hydrophilic surfactant(s) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Lipophilic surfactant(s) 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 ACRYLAMIDE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE
(SIMULGEL 600 from SEPPIC) 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE
(HOSTACERIN AMPS by CLARIANT) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Hydrophobic polymer(s) 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE 3.7 3.7 3.7 3.7 3.7 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5 5 5 5 5 PEARLITE
(OPTIMAT 2550 GOLD from WORLD MINERALS (IMERYS)) - 1 1 1 1 SODIUM POLYACRYLATE STARCH
(MAKIMOUSSE 12 by DAITO KASEI KOGYO) 0.2 - 0.2 0.2 0.2 ALCOHOL - - 4 4 4 BEHENYL ALCOHOL 1.5 1.5 - 1.5 1.5 CETYL ALCOHOL 1.9 1.9 - 1.9 1 GLYCERIN 17 17 17 17 8

Method of preparation

The raw materials of phase A (15% water, glycerin, hydrophilic surfactant(s), hydrophilic polymers) are carefully weighed beforehand using a balance (accuracy = 0.01 g), added to the tank main and homogenized. The phase is maintained at a temperature of 50°C.

The raw materials of phase B (UV filters, fatty alcohols, hydrophobic surfactant(s), hydrophobic polymer(s)) are carefully weighed beforehand using a balance (accuracy = 0.01 g), added to the annex tank and heated to 75°C until complete homogenization of the phase.

Phase B is introduced into phase A. An emulsion is thus obtained at high shear.

Phase C (QS of water) is added and the mixture is cooled to 30°C.

Phase D (fillers) is introduced into phase A+B+C with stirring.

Phase E (alcohol) is added at the end of manufacturing.

Results obtained

The results of the sensory analysis are as follows. Composition 1
(comparative) 2
(comparative) 3
(comparative) 4
(invention) 5
(invention) Getting started 4.5/5 4.5/5 1/5 4.5/5 4.5/5 Flexibility 3/5 3/5 5/5 4/5 4/5 Sticky 4/5 3/5 2/5 2/5 1/5 Lightness 3/5 2.5/5 2.5/5 4/5 4/5 Candy 2.5/5 2/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 Bold 4/5 3/5 3/5 2/5 1/5 fondant 3.5/5 3.5/5 1/5 4/5 4/5

In conclusion, the compositions according to the invention (compositions 4 and 5), which comprise UV filters, a superabsorbent polymer, one or more fatty alcohols and perlite are optimized as regards firstly the consistency, in particular a grip and suppleness adapted to a pot formulation, and on the other hand the sensoriality, in particular they are non-greasy and non-sticky, while being light, soft and melting.

Conversely, the sensoriality of the comparative compositions comprising no perlite (composition 1) or no superabsorbent polymer (composition 2) is not satisfactory, both with regard to fat and stickiness and with regard to relates to lightness, softness and fondant, and the comparative composition not comprising fatty alcohols (composition 3) has a consistency (grip, flexibility) which does not facilitate formulation in a pot.

Example 2 - Composition 6 to 9

The following compositions are prepared. Phase
Composition 6
(invention) 7
(invention) 8
(invention) 9
(invention) AT WATER / GLYCERINE / HYDROPHILIC ACTIVE(S) AND PRESERVATIVE(S) 27.64 27.64 27.64 27.64 B OIL(S) / SURFACTANT(S), POLYMER(S), HYDROPHOBIC ACTIVE(S) AND PRESERVATIVE(S) 9.6 9.6 9.6 9.6 B BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYL METHANE 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 B ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5 5 5 5 B ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 B OCTOCRYLENE 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 B CETYL ALCOHOL 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 B BEHENYL ALCOHOL 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 VS WATER QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 D PHENYLBENZYMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 E POLYMER(S) 0.7 0.6 0.6 0.6 F SODIUM POLYACRYLATE STARCH
(MAKIMOUSSE 12 by DAITO KASEI KOGYO) 0.5 0.5 0.5 1 F AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE
(HOSTACERIN AMPS by CLARIANT) - 0.5 - - F POLYACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER-6
(SEPIMAX ZEN from SEPPIC) - - 0.5 - G PEARLITE
(OPTIMAT 2550 GOLD from WORLD MINERALS (IMERYS)) 1 1 1 1 G LAUROYL LYSIN
(AMIHOPE LL of AJINOMOTO) 1 1 1 1 G AMMONIUM STARCH OCTENYLSUCCINATE
(DRYFLO PLUS from AKZO NOBEL (NOURYON)) 1 1 1 1 H PERFUME 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4

Method of preparation

The raw materials of phase A (10% water, 17% glycerin, hydrophilic active ingredient(s), hydrophilic preservative(s)) are carefully weighed beforehand using a balance (accuracy = 0 .01 g), added to the main tank and homogenized. The phase is maintained at a temperature of 75°C.

Phase B raw materials (lipophilic UV filters, fatty alcohols, hydrophobic surfactant(s), hydrophobic polymer(s), oil(s), hydrophobic active(s) and preservative(s) ) hydrophobic(s)) are carefully weighed beforehand using a balance (accuracy = 0.01 g), added to the annex tank and heated to 75° C. until complete homogenization of the phase.

Phase B is introduced into phase A at 65° C. under a rotor/stator.

Phase C (QS of water) is added at 60°C.

The hydrophilic filter is added at 40°C.

Phase E at 40°C, phase F at 40°C, then phases G and H at 30°C-35°C are then successively added.

Results obtained

The results of the sensory analysis are as follows. Composition 6
(invention) 7
(invention) 8
(invention) 9
(invention) Getting started 3/5 3/5 3.5/5 3.5/5 Flexibility 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/5 Sticky 2/5 2/5 1.5/5 1/5 Lightness 3/5 3/5 3.5/5 4/5 Candy 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 Bold 2.5/5 2.5/5 2/5 1.5/5 fondant 3.5/5 3.5/5 3.5/5 3.5/5

Compositions 6 to 9 according to the invention, which comprise UV filters, a superabsorbent polymer, one or more fatty alcohols and perlite, are optimized as regards, on the one hand, consistency, in particular grip and flexibility. adapted to a pot formulation, and on the other hand the sensoriality, in particular they are non-greasy and non-sticky, while being light, soft and melting.

The stability results of the compositions are as follows. Composition 6
(invention) 7
(invention) 8
(invention) 9
(invention) Macroscopic stability Phase shift after 2 months at 45°C Stable after 2 months at 45°C Stable after 2 months at 45°C Stable after 2 months at 45°C Microscopic stability Passes 1 month at 45°C Complies with 1 month and 2 months at 45°C Complies with 1 month and 2 months at 45°C Complies with 1 month and 2 months at 45°C

The compositions according to the invention (compositions 6 to 9), which comprise UV filters, a superabsorbent polymer, one or more fatty alcohols and perlite are stable. This stability is improved when the amount of superabsorbent polymer is increased or when the superabsorbent polymer is combined with an AMPS polymer.

Example 3 - Dialing 10 to 1 2

The following compositions are prepared. Phase
Composition 10
(invention) 11
(invention) 12
(invention) AT WATER / GLYCERINE / HYDROPHILIC ACTIVE(S) AND PRESERVATIVE(S) 27.64 27.64 27.64 B OIL(S) / SURFACTANT(S), POLYMER(S), ACTIVE(S), HYDROPHOBIC PRESERVATIVE(S) 9.6 9.6 9.6 B BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYL METHANE 2 2 2 B ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5 5 5 B ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE 1.6 1.6 1.6 B OCTOCRYLENE 2.5 2.5 2.5 B SILICA (and) TITANIUM DIOXIDE 1 1 1 B CETYL ALCOHOL 1.7 1.7 1.7 B BEHENYL ALCOHOL 1.5 1.5 1.5 VS WATER QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 D PHENYLBENZYMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID 2 2 2 E POLYMER(S) 0.6 0.6 0.6 F SODIUM POLYACRYLATE STARCH
(MAKIMOUSSE 12 by DAITO KASEI KOGYO) 0.5 0.5 1 F AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE
(HOSTACERIN AMPS by CLARIANT) 0.5 - - F POLYACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER-6
(SEPIMAX ZEN from SEPPIC) - 0.5 - G PEARLITE
(OPTIMAT 2550 GOLD from WORLD MINERALS (IMERYS)) 1 1 1 G LAUROYL LYSIN
(AMIHOPE LL of AJINOMOTO) 1 1 1 G AMMONIUM STARCH OCTENYLSUCCINATE
(DRYFLO PLUS from AKZO NOBEL (NOURYON)) 1 1 1 H PERFUME 0.4 0.4 0.4

Method of preparation

The raw materials of phase A (10% water, 17% glycerin, hydrophilic active ingredient(s), hydrophilic preservative(s)) are carefully weighed beforehand using a balance (accuracy = 0 .01 g), added to the main tank and homogenized. The phase is maintained at a temperature of 75°C.

Phase B raw materials (lipophilic UV filters, fatty alcohols, hydrophobic surfactant(s), hydrophobic polymer(s), oil(s), hydrophobic active(s) and preservative(s) ) hydrophobic(s)) are carefully weighed beforehand using a balance (accuracy = 0.01 g), added to the annex tank and heated to 75° C. until complete homogenization of the phase.

Phase B is introduced into phase A at 65° C. under a rotor/stator.

Phase C (QS of water) is added at 60°C.

The hydrophilic filter is added at 40°C.

Phase E at 40°C, phase F at 40°C, then phases G and H at 30°C-35°C are then successively added.

Results obtained

The results of the sensory analysis are as follows. Composition 10
(invention) 11
(invention) 12
(invention) Getting started 3/5 3.5/5 3.5/5 Flexibility 3/5 3/5 3/5 Sticky 2.5/5 2/5 1.5/5 Lightness 2.5/5 3/5 3.5/5 Candy 4/5 4/5 4/5 Bold 2.5/5 2/5 1.5/5 fondant 3.5/5 3.5/5 3.5/5

The compositions according to the invention 10 to 12, which comprise UV filters, a superabsorbent polymer optionally combined with an AMPS polymer, one or more fatty alcohols and perlite have a pleasant sensoriality and are suitable for daily use. Their consistency is suitable for formulation in pots.

Example 4 - Composition 1 3 and 14

The following compositions are prepared. Phase Composition 13
(invention) 14
(invention) AT WATER / GLYCERINE / HYDROPHILIC ACTIVE(S) AND PRESERVATIVE(S) 27.64 27.64 B OIL(S) / SURFACTANT(S), POLYMER(S), ACTIVE(S), HYDROPHOBIC PRESERVATIVE(S) 9.6 9.6 B BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYL METHANE 1.5 1.5 B ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5 5 B BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE 2.5 2.5 B SILICA (and) TITANIUM DIOXIDE 1 1 B CETYL ALCOHOL 1.7 1.7 B BEHENYL ALCOHOL 1.5 1.5 VS WATER QSP 100 QSP 100 D PHENYLBENZYMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID 2 2 E POLYMER(S) 0.6 0.6 F SODIUM POLYACRYLATE STARCH
(MAKIMOUSSE 12 by DAITO KASEI KOGYO) 1 0.5 F POLYACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER-6
(SEPIMAX ZEN from SEPPIC) - 0.5 G PEARLITE
(OPTIMAT 2550 GOLD from WORLD MINERALS (IMERYS)) 1 1 G LAUROYL LYSIN
(AMIHOPE LL of AJINOMOTO) 1 1 G AMMONIUM STARCH OCTENYLSUCCINATE
(DRYFLO PLUS from AKZO NOBEL (NOURYON)) 1 1 H PERFUME 0.4 0.4

Method of preparation

The raw materials of phase A (10% water, 17% glycerin, hydrophilic active ingredients, hydrophilic preservatives) are carefully weighed beforehand using a balance (accuracy = 0.01 g), added to the main tank and homogenized . The phase is maintained at a temperature of 75°C.

The raw materials of phase B (lipophilic UV filters, fatty alcohols, hydrophobic surfactants, hydrophobic polymers, oils, hydrophobic active ingredients and hydrophobic preservatives) are carefully weighed beforehand using a balance (accuracy = 0.01 g), added to the annex tank and heated to 75°C until complete homogenization of the phase.

Phase B is introduced into phase A at 65° C. under a rotor/stator.

Phase C (QS of water) is added at 60°C.

The hydrophilic filter is added at 40°C.

Phase E at 40°C, phase F at 40°C, then phases G and H at 30°C-35°C are then successively added.

Results obtained

The results of the sensory analysis are as follows. Composition 13
(invention) 14
(invention) Getting started 3.5/5 3.5/5 Flexibility 3/5 3/5 Sticky 1/5 1.5/5 Lightness 4.5/5 3.5/5 Candy 4/5 4/5 Bold 1/5 2/5 fondant 3.5/5 3.5/5

The compositions according to the invention 13 and 14, which comprise UV filters, a superabsorbent polymer optionally combined with an AMPS polymer, one or more fatty alcohols and perlite have a pleasant sensoriality suitable for daily use. Their consistency is suitable for formulation in pots.

Claims (20)

Composition, preferably cosmetic or dermatological, comprising:
- at least one organic UV filter;
- at least one superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer;
- pearlite; And
- at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohol. Composition according to Claim 1, in which the organic UV screening agent(s) are chosen from water-soluble organic UV screening agents, fat-soluble organic UV screening agents, insoluble organic UV screening agents, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to either of Claims 1 and 2, in which the organic UV screening agent(s) are chosen from fat-soluble organic UV screening agents; preferably chosen from dibenzoylmethane compounds, salicylic compounds, β, β-diphenylacrylate compounds, benzophenone compounds, phenyl benzotriazole compounds, triazine compounds and mixtures thereof; and more preferably from homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, drometrizole trisiloxane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)- n-hexyl benzoate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, in which the quantity of the organic UV screening agent(s) a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, comprising at least one superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic homo- or copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate, which is in particulate form. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, in which the superabsorbent polymer(s) are present in a content of active material ranging, for example, from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.15% to 2% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, in which the perlite is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, in which the fatty alcohol or alcohols are chosen from behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl stearyl alcohol. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, in which the fatty alcohol or alcohols are present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 2.0% to 6.0% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 further comprising at least one C1-C4 alcohol. Composition according to Claim 10, in which the C1-C4 alcohol or alcohols are chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol, preferably it is ethanol. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, further comprising at least one organic filler. A composition according to claim 12 comprising an N-acylated amino acid powder. Composition according to Claim 13, in which the N-acylated amino acids comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group, and The amino acid is chosen from lysine, glutamic acid, alanine. Composition according to either of Claims 13 and 14, in which the N-acylated amino acid powder is a lauroyl lysine powder. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 15, comprising at least one hydrophilic polymer comprising at least one acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulphonic acid (AMPS®) monomer. Composition according to Claim 16, in which the hydrophilic polymer of AMPS is a homopolymer or copolymer, crosslinked or non-crosslinked, comprising at least the monomer acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulphonic acid (AMPS®), in free form or in partially or partially completely neutralized by a mineral base or an organic base. Composition according to either of Claims 16 and 17, in which the AMPS polymer or polymers are chosen from:
- “homopolymers” comprising only AMPS monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents; And
- the copolymers obtained from AMPS® and one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18 in the form of an emulsion, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material comprising the application to the surface of the said keratin material of at least one composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 19.