FR3124698A1 - Composition comprising at least one UV screening agent, boron nitride, and a nonionic surfactant of ester type - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprising at least one UV screening agent, boron nitride, and a nonionic surfactant of ester type The present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising: - at least one organic UV filter; - a nonionic surfactant of ester type comprising a mixture of at least one monounsaturated ester and at least one polyglycerol diester; and - boron nitride. The present invention makes it possible to obtain a composition having a pleasant sensoriality for daily use on the skin and a strong anti-UV protective power, while being stable.

Description

Composition comprising at least one UV screening agent, boron nitride, and a nonionic surfactant of ester type

The present invention relates to an aqueous, in particular cosmetic, composition comprising at least one organic UV screening agent, at least one nonionic surfactant of ester type comprising a mixture of at least one monounsaturated ester and at least one diester of polyglycerol; and boron nitride.

To date, a wide variety of photoprotective compositions are already known for protecting keratin materials, and more particularly the skin, against the harmful effects induced by UVA and/or UVB radiation. Essentially, they contain a combination of several organic or inorganic UV filters, conveyed in the oily phase and/or in the aqueous phase as an anti-UV active agent and are generally offered in a galenic form of the emulsion or gel type.

It is also known that high filter rates are necessary to achieve high levels of filtering efficiency.

However, high levels of UV filters do not lend themselves to easy preparation of compositions with a stabilized and pleasant texture.

Thus, formulations with high filtering power generally present uncomfortable or even unpleasant sensory aspects masking the freshness and comfort of the formulas. In particular, the weak point of photoprotective formulations with a high protection factor is often a significant greasy and sticky feeling, and therefore a lack of lightness in the textures obtained, but also a white appearance on application and therefore not invisible on the skin. skin., or also a strong shiny appearance to the skin not acceptable to the user's face area.

Furthermore, the introduction of high-grade UV filters generally causes destabilization problems. This instability can even sometimes cause a phase shift of the emulsion and/or a loss of viscosity of the composition, rendering the formulation ineffective or even unusable.

To overcome the aforementioned undesirable effects, and in particular to obtain a fresh effect on application and an invisible effect on the skin, aqueous galenics have already been considered. However, these aqueous compositions containing UV filters are generally sticky and therefore uncomfortable, but also very fluid.

It has also been proposed to structure an aqueous gel containing filters by polymers. However, this solution is not satisfactory because the structuring polymers generally used are not always very resistant to electrolytes and can also degrade the sensory properties of the compositions in terms of stickiness.

To overcome the aforementioned undesirable effects, the use of aqueous compositions containing UV filters in combination with other specific compounds has already been considered.

Thus, the joint use of clay-type mineral thickeners has been proposed to stabilize the compositions and possibly attenuate the stickiness of the photoprotective compositions. However, clays have the drawback of whitening the compositions, which then lose their transparency properties.

Consequently, it remains difficult to reconcile, in the same photoprotective composition, technical performances which oppose each other, such as a high level of UV protection which most often implies a greasy and sticky finish on the skin, and a pleasant sensory materialized in particular by a feeling of freshness, and in particular a non-shiny finish which is non-sticky.

There still remains a need for a photoprotective composition with a high level of UV protection and which advantageously does not provide a white effect or coverage or excessive shine on the skin.

In particular, there remains a need for a photoprotective composition with a high level of UV protection, endowed with pleasant sensory properties.

This need for such a photoprotective composition is all the greater as the daily photoprotection market is booming. More and more hybrid products providing skin care and protection at SPF 15-20 are being launched, but there remains the challenge of having higher SPF values, for example greater than or equal to 30, or even greater than or equal to at 50, with a pleasant sensoriality for daily application. The world of skincare remains very different from the field of photoprotection in terms of the consumer experience with products sold in jars, which increases the complexity of formulation development.

We therefore seek to have a product with a high SPF while keeping in particular the sensory codes of skin care: Appearance, texture, consistency, sensory.

In other words, the object of the invention is to propose a product having a cosmeticity conventionally used in the daily care of keratin materials, in particular the skin of the face, and/or remaining pleasant for the consumer, that is to say being little or not sticky, little film-forming, leaving little residue, non-shiny, and pleasant to the touch (such as less greasy), and/or not presenting feelings of discomfort such as tightness, while allowing daily photoprotection high.

There also remains a need for a photoprotective composition with a high level of UV protection and which is perfectly stable, that is to say not subject to destabilization phenomena (such as in particular coalescence or sedimentation).

The present invention aims precisely to meet these needs.

Thus, the present invention relates, according to a first aspect, to an aqueous composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising:
- at least one organic UV filter;
- at least one nonionic surfactant of ester type comprising a mixture of at least one monounsaturated ester and at least one polyglycerol diester; And
- boron nitride.

Against all expectations, the inventors have found that the implementation, in a photoprotective composition, of the combination of boron nitride, at least one organic screening agent and at least one nonionic surfactant of the ester type comprising a mixture of at least one monounsaturated ester and at least one diester of polyglycerol, provides access to a galenic formulation with strong anti-UV protective power and which is nevertheless stabilized over time, while retaining good cosmetic properties in particular of a sensory nature and of comfort of use, minimizing the feeling of greasy or sticky, of residue, or of film-forming appearance during application, and in particular having the same level of playtime.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprising boron nitride, at least one nonionic surfactant of ester type comprising a mixture of at least one monounsaturated ester and at least one polyglycerol diester, and at least at least one organic UV filter, provides access to an aqueous galenic formulation which is stabilized, exhibiting a pleasant sensoriality for daily use and a strong anti-UV protective power, or advantageously makes it possible to combine properties which are generally mutually antagonistic.

A subject of the invention is also, according to another of its aspects, the use of a composition as defined above, for the care of keratin materials, in particular of the skin of the body and/or of the face.

The invention also relates, according to yet another of its aspects, to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and/or the face, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined above.

It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and/or improving the color and/or the uniformity of the complexion comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one composition such as previously defined.

It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and/or treating the signs of aging of a keratin material comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one composition as defined above.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the following terms mean:

- “Stable composition” a composition which, after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at room temperature (25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C, retains its pleasantness and its sensory signature at the app. More specifically, a " stable composition " within the meaning of the present invention has an acceptable viscosity change, that is to say that the difference between the initial viscosity and the viscosity after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at ambient temperature (25° C.), at 4° C. and at 45° C., remains less than 10%, preferably less than 5%. A “ stable composition ” within the meaning of the present invention also has a difference between the initial pH and after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at room temperature (25° C.), at 4° C. and at 45°C, less than 0.3 and shows no phase shift phenomenon after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at room temperature (25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C . Finally, a “ stable composition ” within the meaning of the present invention does not exhibit crystals after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at room temperature (25° C.), at 4° C. and at 45° C. .

- “ Transparent composition ” a composition which, when it is applied to the skin, for example in a thickness of 5 mm, is transparent, that is to say that it allows the skin to be seen. This transparency is assessed visually, with the naked eye.

- " SPF " (Sun Protection Factor in English): the sun protection factor, which measures the level of protection against UVB rays. The SPF value corresponds to the ratio between the smallest dose of energy (UVB) required to obtain a sunburn with an antisun composition and that without product. More specifically, the term “ SPF ” is defined in the article A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum , J. Soc. Cosmetic. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May/June 1989).

The evaluation of the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) can be carried out in vitro using the Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material on which the sunscreen composition is applied. For this protocol, polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) plates have proven to be ideal.

The evaluation of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of the compositions can also be carried out in vivo according to the ISO/EN 24444 protocol "Cosmetics-Sun protection test methods-In-vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) ( 2010)”.

- " PPD " (Persistent Pigment Darkening in English): the index characterizing the protection against UVA rays. In particular, the “ PPD ” evaluates the color of the skin observed 2 to 4 hours after exposure to UVA. This method has been adopted since 1996 by the Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) as the official test procedure for UVA labeling of products and is frequently used by testing laboratories in Europe and the United States; (Japan Cosmetic Industry Association Technical Bulletin. Measurement Standards for UVA protection efficacy. Issued November 21, 1995 and effective of January 1, 1996).

Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the detailed description which follows.

The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium. Here, the term “physiologically acceptable medium” means a medium compatible with keratin materials.

In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is understood to mean in particular the skin, the nails, the mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin and the mucous membranes (body, face, eye contour, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “included between” and “ranging from … to …”.

Furthermore, the expressions “at least one” and “at least” used in the present description are respectively equivalent to the expressions “one or more” and “greater than or equal”.

By "preventing" or "prevention" is meant according to the invention the fact of reducing the risk of occurrence or of slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of aging of a material keratin.

“Organic UVA filter” means any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm; said molecule can also additionally absorb UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

By "organic UVB filter", we mean any organic chemical molecule capable of exclusively absorbing UVB radiation in the range of wavelengths between 280 and 320 nm.

UV filters

Organic UV filters

The compositions according to the invention contain one or more organic UV filters. These can be chosen in particular from hydrophilic organic UV filters, lipophilic organic UV filters, insoluble organic UV filters, and mixtures thereof.

By "hydrophilic UV filter" is meant any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid aqueous phase or else of being dissolved in colloidal form (for example in the form micellar) in a liquid aqueous phase.

By "lipophilic filter" is meant any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or else of being dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form ) in a liquid fatty phase.

By "insoluble UV filter" is meant any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound filtering UV radiation having a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in most organic solvents such as paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol 812® marketed by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL. This solubility, achieved at 70°C, is defined as the quantity of product in solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of solid in suspension after returning to room temperature. It can easily be assessed in the laboratory.

The organic UV screening agents are chosen in particular from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in US Pat. No. 5,624,663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic compounds (PABA); methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in applications US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; screening polymers and screening silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93/04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1133980 and EP133981 and mixtures thereof.

Examples of organic photoprotective agents include those designated below by their INCI name.

Cinnamic compounds:

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL MCX ® by DSM Nutritial Products,

Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate,

Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 ® by Symrise,

DEA Methoxycinnamate,

Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate,

Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate.

Dibenzoylmethane compounds:

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL 1789 ® by DSM Nutritial Products,

Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane.

Para-aminobenzoic compounds:

PABA,

Ethyl PABA,

Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA,

Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name "ESCALOL 507®" by ISP,

Glyceryl PABA,

PEG-25 PABA sold under the name “UVINUL P 25®” by BASF.

Salicylic compounds:

Homosalate sold under the name "Eusolex HMS®" by Rona/EM Industries,

Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name “NEO HELIOPAN OS®” by Symrise,

Dipropylene glycol Salicylate sold under the name "DIPSAL ®" by SCHER,

TEA Salicylate, sold under the name “NEO HELIOPAN TS®” by Symrise.

β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds:

Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL N 539®" by BASF,

Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL N 35®” by BASF.

Benzophenone compounds:

Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name “UVINUL 400®” by BASF,

Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name “UVINUL D 50®” by BASF,

Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name “UVINUL M 40®” by BASF,

Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name “UVINUL MS 40®” by BASF,

Benzophenone-5,

Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name “Helisorb 11®” by Norquay,

Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name “Spectra-Sorb UV-24®” by American Cyanamid,

Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name “UVINUL DS 49®” by BASF,

Benzophenone-12,

n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate sold under the trade name "UVINUL A Plus ®" or in a mixture with octylmethoxycinnamate under the trade name "UVINUL A Plus B®" by the company BASF ,

1,1'-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone (CAS 919803-06-8) as described in application WO2007/ 071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 μm) which can be obtained for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in the form of aqueous dispersion.

Benzylidene Camphor Compounds:

3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SD®” by CHIMEX,

4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name “EUSOLEX 6300®” by MERCK,

Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SL®” by CHIMEX,

Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SO®” by CHIMEX,

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SX®” by CHIMEX,

Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SW®” by CHIMEX.

Phenyl benzimidazole compounds:

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name “EUSOLEX 232®” by MERCK.

Bis-benzoazolyl compounds:

Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate sold under the trade name “NEO HELIOPAN AP®” by Haarmann and REIMER.

Phenyl benzotriazole compounds:

Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name “Silatrizole®” by RHODIA CHIMIE.

Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds:

Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, in particular in solid form such as the product sold under the trade name "MIXXIM BB/100 ®" by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size which varies from 0.01 to 5 μm and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 μm and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant of structure C _n H _2n+1 O(C ₆ H ₁₀ O ₅ ) _x H in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C ₆ H ₁₀ O ₅ ) and varies from 1.4 to 1.6 as described in patent GB-A-2 303 549 in particular sold under the trade name “TINOSORB M®” by BASF or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size which varies from 0.02 to 2 μm and more preferentially from 0.01 to 1.5 μm and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 μm in the presence of at least one polyglycer mono-(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl ester ol having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5, such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO2009/063392.

Triazine compounds:

- 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-1,2,4-triazine), INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl triazine, with the following chemical formula:

- Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name “TINOSORB S®” by BASF,

- Ethylhexyl Triazone sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL T 150®” by BASF,

- Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name "UVASORB HEB ®" by SIGMA 3V,

- 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino dineopentyl benzalmalonate)-s-triazine,

- 2,4,6-tris-(diisobutyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate)-s-triazine,

- 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine,

- 2,4-bis-(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine,

- symmetrical triazine filters substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in patent US6,225,467, application WO2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004) in particular 2,4,6-tris(di-phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine which is included in the patent applications WO06/035000, WO06/034982, WO06/034991, WO06/035007, WO2006/034992, WO2006/034985, these compounds being advantageously used in micronized form (average particle size from 0.02 to 3 μm) obtainable for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in aqueous dispersion form,

- triazine silicones substituted with two aminobenzoate groups as described in patent EP0841341, in particular 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{1,3,3,3- tetramethyl-1-[(trimethyl¬silyl¬oxy]-disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine.

Anthranil compounds:

Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name “NEO HELIOPAN MA®” by Symrise.

Imidazoline compounds:

Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate.

Benzalmalonate compounds:

Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name “PARSOL SLX®” by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE.

4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds:

1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.

Benzoxazole compounds:

2,4-bis-[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazine sold as 'Uvasorb K2A® by Sigma 3V.

The preferred organic filters are chosen from:

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate,

Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

Homosalate,

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

Octocrylene,

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulphonic Acid,

Benzophenone-3,

Benzophenone-4,

Benzophenone-5,

n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate,

4-Methylbenzylidene camphor,

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,

Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate,

Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol,

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Ethylhexyl Triazone,

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,

2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino dineopentyl benzalmalonate)-s-triazine,

2,4,6-tris-(diisobutyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate)-s-triazine,

2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine,

2,4-bis-(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine,

2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyl-oxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s- triazine,

2,4,6-tris-(di-phenyl)-triazine,

2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine

Drometrizole Trisiloxane,

Polysilicon-15,

1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene,

2,4-bis-[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazine,

and their mixtures.

The particularly preferred organic screening agents are chosen from:

Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

Octocrylene,

and their mixtures.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprising butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate and octocrylene.

The organic UV screening agents may be present in the composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional UV filters

The composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one inorganic UV screening agent.

The inorganic UV filters that can be used in the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferentially, the inorganic UV screening agents of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size less than or equal to 0.5 μm, more preferentially comprised between 0.005 and 0.5 μm, and even more preferentially comprised between 0.01 and 0.2 μm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 μm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 μm.

They may be chosen in particular from titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium and cerium oxides or mixtures thereof.

Boron Nitride

As indicated previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least boron nitride.

The boron nitride preferably has a number-average primary size of between 1 and 50 μm, better still between 1 and 30 μm, more preferentially between 1 and 25 μm, and even more preferentially between 1 and 10 μm.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "primary particle size" means the maximum dimension that it is possible to measure between two diametrically opposite points of an individual particle. The size can be determined, for example, by transmission electron microscopy or from the measurement of the specific surface by the BET method or by means of a laser granulometer.

As commercial boron nitride that can be used in a composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the boron nitrides sold by Saint Gobain Ceramics, in particular under the names PUHP3002, PUHP3008 or PUHP1030L, or Softouch BN CC6058 Powder from Momentive Performance Materials.

The boron nitride is preferably present in a composition according to the invention in an amount of between 0.1% and 6% by weight, better still in an amount of between 0.5% and 3% by weight, and even more preferably in an amount of between 1% and 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 1% by weight of boron nitride relative to the total weight of the composition.

Ester type nonionic surfactant

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least at least one nonionic surfactant of ester type comprising a mixture of at least one monounsaturated ester and at least one polyglycerol diester

The composition according to the invention thus comprises at least nonionic surfactant of ester type, which is in particular a mixture of at least one ester obtained by esterification of a solid wax with a polyol, of a fatty acid diester with a polyglycerol, a jojoba wax (preferably a jojoba wax ester), and a fatty alcohol. Said ester is nonionic.

Said ester-type nonionic surfactant according to the invention comprises:
i) at least one monounsaturated ester of formula (A); :

R1-C(O)-O-R2 (A):
in which: :
R1 and R2 represent, respectively, a C18 to C44 fatty chain, at least R1 or R2 is monounsaturated; :
ii) at least one polyglycerol diester of formula (B):

R3-C(O)-(O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2)nOC(O)-R4 (B):
in which: :
R3 and R4 represent, respectively, a C18 to C44 saturated fatty chain, linear or branched, and:
iii) at least one C10-C30 fatty alcohol.

According to a particular mode of the invention, said nonionic surfactant of ester type comprises at least one monounsaturated ester of formula (A) in which R ¹ and R ² represent, respectively, a C18 to C30 fatty chain, and at least one R ¹ or R ² groups is monounsaturated; at least one polyglycerol diester of formula (B) in which R ³ -C(O)- and R ⁴ each represent a linear or branched C20-C34 saturated fatty chain; cetyl alcohol.

According to a more particular embodiment of the invention, the ester-type nonionic surfactant is a mixture of polyglyceryl-6 distearate, jojoba esters, polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, and cetyl alcohol.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in formula (A), R1 and R2 represent, respectively, a C18 to C40 fatty chain, preferably a C18-C30 fatty chain. At least one of the radicals R1 or R2 is monounsaturated.

More specifically, in formula (A), the R1—C(O) group corresponds to the carbon chain of the fatty acid. This chain can be linear or monounsaturated, and comprises at least 18 carbon atoms. Mention may be made of oleic (C18:1), gadoleic (C20:1), erucic (C22:1) acids, up to hexacosanoic acid (C26:1) for unsaturated acids. The R1—C(O) group can also consist of branched and saturated acids with at least 18 carbon atoms, also called Guerbet acids. The R2—O— group can consist of linear monounsaturated fatty alcohols with at least 18 carbon atoms. We can thus mention octadecenol, eicosenol, docosenol and hexacosenol. The carbon chain of alcohol can also be branched and saturated and contain at least 18 carbon atoms. Such alcohols are also called Guerbet alcohols.

Preferably, the monounsaturated ester of formula (A) is a mixture of esters comprising different lengths of fatty chains in their structures. More preferably, such a monounsaturated ester is liquid at room temperature.

A preferred monounsaturated ester may be mentioned, for example, the product commonly known as jojoba oil (or jojoba esters), the liquid nature being due to the presence of monounsaturated chains. This oil comprises in particular esters of unsaturated fatty acids C18:1 (preferably minority), C20:1 and C22:1 (preferably majority with C20:1>C22:1), with unsaturated fatty alcohols C20:1 , C22:1 and C24:1.

According to one embodiment, in formula (B), the group R3-C(O)- corresponds to the carbon chain of a C18 to C44 fatty acid, said acid usually being linear and saturated, preferably corresponding to a linear C20 and saturated C34. This therefore includes eicosanoic (or arachidic) acid (C20), docosanoic (or behenic) acid (C22), tetracosanoic (or lignoceric) acid (C24), hexacosanoic (or ketonic) acid (C26) . The R4 group corresponds to the hydrocarbon chain of the alcohol, said alcohol usually being linear saturated and having a C18 to C44 chain, preferably a C20 to C34 chain. N is an integer between 2 and 6.

According to the present invention, the polyglyceryl diester is obtained by esterification of a solid wax in the presence of at least one polyol.

The wax considered in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C , preferably greater than or equal to 40°C, possibly up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.

Depending on the source of the wax, the monoester mixture may also include a certain proportion of esters of hydroxy acids such as hydroxypalmitic acid.

This is for example the case of beeswax. Preferably said alcohol is eicosanol, docosanol or tetracosanol. Examples of natural waxes include beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, ouricuri wax, shellac wax, and sugarcane wax. solid. Preferably, the solid wax is beeswax.

Solid waxes have a melting point between 50 and 90°C. They correspond to mixtures comprising mainly monoesters having the formula R1—C(O)—O—R2, where the group R1—C(O)— corresponds to the carbon chain of the fatty acid, said acid being usually linear and saturated and having a number of carbon atoms of at least 18, in particular 20, and preferably up to 44 and more preferably up to 34. They therefore include eicosanoic (or arachidic) acid (C20), docosanoic (or behenic) acid (C22), tetracosanoic (or lignoceric) acid (C24), hexacosanoic (or cerotic) acid (C26). Depending on the source of the wax, the monoester mixture may also contain a certain proportion of hydroxy acid esters such as hydroxypalmitic or hydroxystearic acid. This is the case, for example, with beeswax. The R2 group corresponds to the hydrocarbon chain of the alcohol, said alcohol usually being linear saturated and having a number of carbon atoms of at least 18, and in particular 20, and preferably up to 34 and preferably up to 34. Preferably said alcohol is eicosanol, docosanol or tetracosanol. Examples of natural waxes include beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, ouricuri wax, shellac wax, and sugarcane wax. solid. Preferably, the solid wax is beeswax.

Preferably, the polyol used for the esterification is selected from the group consisting of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 2-methyl propanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, hexylene glycol, octylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, trimethylol propane, sorbitol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, glycerol, diglycerol and polyglycerol (i.e. a polymer with glycerol units). More preferably, the polyol is a polyglycerol, having an average degree of polymerization between 2 and 5, preferably 3. Preferably, the polyol is polyglycerol-3.

The nonionic ester surfactant also includes the acid part of a solid wax. Waxes have a complex composition. They have the common characteristic of containing a mixture of acid monoesters and very long chain fatty alcohols.

Preferably, the nonionic ester surfactant is a wax derivative obtained by reacting together at least one solid wax and at least one monounsaturated ester of formula (A) in the presence of at least one polyol and optionally at least a catalyst. In such a case, a transesterification reaction takes place between the different chemical entities to give the wax derivative.

Preferred catalysts are alkali metal or alkali metal hydroxides or alkoxides, calcium hydroxide, potassium or sodium carbonates or catalysts based on tin or titanium.

Preferably, the solid wax is advantageously selected from the group consisting of carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, sugarcane wax, ouricuri wax, beeswax and shellac wax.

In a preferred embodiment, the wax derivative is obtained by reacting jojoba wax, beeswax and a polyglycerol, such as polyglycerol-3.

In practice, the reaction is preferably carried out at a temperature between 100°C and 220°C, advantageously between 150°C and 200°C. Preferably, the liquid wax/solid wax mass ratio varies between 5/95 and 95/5, advantageously between 30/70 and 75/25. The wax/polyol mass ratio preferably varies between 1/99 and 99/1, advantageously between 95/5 and 50/50. Preferably, the proportion of esterified polyol represents between 0.5 and 50% by weight of the mixture, the proportion of esterified fatty acids represents between 20 and 60% by weight of the mixture and the proportion of esterified fatty alcohols between 20 and 60 % by weight of the mixture.

Preferably, the nonionic ester surfactant is additionally present with a diester of a C14-C22 fatty acid with a polyglycerol.

Typically, the C14-C22 fatty acid may be selected from the group consisting of myristic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and arachidic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The polyglycerol can be a polymer of glycerol units, preferably a polymer having an average degree of polymerization between 4 and 8, preferably 6.

Preferably, said diester is a diester of distearic acid with hexaglycerol. Preferably, it is polyglyceryl-6 distearate.

According to a particular mode of the invention, the composition according to the invention can also consist of at least one fatty alcohol containing from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

As examples of fatty alcohols which can be used, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols, of synthetic origin or alternatively of natural origin, for example alcohols derived from plant materials (coconut, palm kernel, palm, etc. .) or animal matter (tallow, etc.). A fatty alcohol comprising from 20 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms is preferably used.

As particular examples of fatty alcohols which can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular of lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

In addition, it is very particularly advantageous, according to the present invention, to use together a mixture of polyglyceryl-6 distearate and polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, with cetyl alcohol and jojoba wax.

Among the mixtures which are particularly preferred, mention may be made of the product sold by the company Gattefosse under the name Emulium Mellifera®, comprising jojoba wax, cetyl alcohol, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, and polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (and) Cetyl Alcohol).

Said mixture comprises in particular from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said mixture of jojoba wax, from 3 to 15% by weight of cetyl alcohol, at least 50% by weight of polyglyceryl-6 distearate, and of 3 to 15% by weight polyglyceryl-3 beeswax.

The nonionic surfactant of ester type may be present in a composition of the invention in an amount varying from 1% to 6% by weight, preferably from 2% to 3.5% by weight, particularly from 2.5% to 3.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one other nonionic surfactant chosen from fatty alcohols.

Within the meaning of the invention, the fatty alcohols are solid at ambient temperature, and are saturated, linear, and contain from 14 to 26 carbon atoms, more particularly from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

The additional fatty alcohol(s) which may be suitable for the invention are chosen in particular from the group comprising stearyl alcohol, cetyl stearyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, heptadecyl alcohol, arachidic alcohol, behenic alcohol and myricyl alcohol.

As cetyl alcohol most particularly suitable for the invention, it is possible, for example, to use those sold under the names ECOROL® 16/98 F and ECOROL® 16/98 P marketed by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals, TEGOALKANOL® 16 marketed by the company Evonik Goldschmidt , LANETTE® 16 marketed by BASF, VEGAROL® 1698 marketed by VVF, ALKONAT® 1698 P marketed by Oxiteno, CETYL ALCOHOL 98% MIN marketed by Emery Oleochemicals, GINOL® 16 (98%) marketed by Godrej Industries, NACOL® 16-98 marketed by Sasol, KALCOL® 6098 marketed by Kao and ACILOL® 16 marketed by Aegis Chemical.

As stearyl alcohol which is most particularly suitable for the invention, it is possible, for example, to use those sold under the names TEGOALKANOL® 18 marketed by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, ECOROL® 18/98 F and ECOROL® 18/98 P marketed by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals , LANETTE® 18 marketed by the company BASF, KALCOL® 8098 marketed by the company Kao, ACILOL® 18 marketed by the company Aegis Chemical, NACOL® 18-98 marketed by the company Sasol and NAA® 45 marketed by the company Nihon Yushi.

As cetyl stearyl alcohol which is most particularly suitable for the invention, it is possible, for example, to use those sold under the names ECOROL® 68/50 F and ECOROL® 68/50 P marketed by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals, LANETTE® O OR and LANETTE® O OR FLAKES marketed by the company Cognis, ALKONAT® 1618 C50 P marketed by the company Oxiteno, NAFOL® 16-18 EN marketed by the company Sasol, ALCOHOL CETOESTEARILICO 50/50 marketed by the company Industria Quimica Del Centro, CONOL® 30 CK marketed by the company New Japan Chemical, CETYL STEARYL ALCOHOL 50:50 marketed by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, KALCOL® 6850 marketed by the company Kao, VEGAROL® 1618 (50:50) marketed by the company VVF and GINOL® 1618 50:50 OR marketed by Godrej Industries.

As behenic alcohol suitable for the invention, it is possible, for example, to use that sold under the name LANETTE® 22 marketed by the company BASF.

Anionic surfactant

The emulsifying system of the invention may also comprise at least one co-surfactant chosen from anionic surfactants, in particular chosen from surfactants of the glutamic acid salt type, of the salts of phosphoric acid esters and alcohol fatty, alkyl sulfate type, and mixtures thereof.

Acyl glutamic acids and their salts

In a preferential mode, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or one of its salts (acyl glutamates).

Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid(s) are chosen from acyl glutamic acids whose acyl group comprises from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example lauroyl glutamic acids, myristoyl glutamic acids, palmitoyl glutamic, stearoyl glutamic, behenoyl glutamic, olivoyl glutamic, cocoyl glutamic and the salts of these acids, in particular the alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, the alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg or the ammonium salts of said acids.

Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid or acids or one of its salts are chosen from lauroyl glutamic acids, cocoyl glutamic acids, sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof.

More preferentially, the acyl glutamic acid or one of its salts is sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI name).

Such compounds are marketed under the name AMISOFT by the company AJINOMOTO and in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11, Amisoft CK-11, or even under the name EUMULGIN SG by the company COGNIS.

Mention may also be made of cocoyl glutamate of triethanolamine marketed under the name AMISOFT CT 12 by the company AJINOMOTO and lauroyl glutamate of triethanolamine marketed under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT-12 by the company AJINOMOTO.

As acyl glutamic acid salt, mention may also be made of sodium hydrogenated tallowoyl glutamate such as that marketed under the reference ACYLGLUTAMATE HS 11 by the company AJINOMOTO and disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate such as that marketed under the reference ACYLGLUTAMATE HS-21 by the company AJINOMOTO company.

Mention may also be made of commercial mixtures of surfactants comprising at least one derivative of glutamic acid or a salt of said derivative such as for example the mixture of acyl glutamate salts such as Amisoft LS-22 marketed by AJINOMOTO.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the mono-sodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid (INCI name: sodium stearoyl glutamate) such as that marketed by the company AJINOMOTO under the reference AMISOFT HS 11 PF is used. or the disodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid (INCI name: disodium stearoyl glutamate) such as that marketed by the company AJINOMOTO under the reference AMISOFT HS 21P.

The acyl glutamic acid(s) and their salts may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% at 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase gelled with one or more gelling agents.

AMPS® Copolymer

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one copolymer comprising at least one monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulphonic acid (AMPS®) and at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group.

By hydrophobic group is meant within the meaning of the present invention a hydrocarbon fatty chain comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, branched or not, saturated or unsaturated.

The AMPS® copolymer(s) may be cross-linked. When they are, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

By cross-linked copolymer is meant a non-linear copolymer in the state of a three-dimensional network that is insoluble in water but swellable in water and leading to the production of a chemical gel.

The crosslinking agent is more particularly chosen from ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, tetraallyloxyethane, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallyl urea, triallyl amine, trimethylol propane triacrylate or methylene-bis(acrylamide) or a mixture of these compounds. Preferably, the crosslinking agent is trimethylol propane triacrylate.

Preferably, the AMPS® copolymer(s) are cross-linked with a cross-linking agent, preferably trimethylol propane triacrylate.

The 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer(s) of the copolymer contained in the composition in accordance with the invention are in the free form or are partially or totally neutralized by a mineral base (soda, potash, ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di-, or tri-ethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methyl-glucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine as well as the mixture of these compounds.

According to the invention, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomers preferably correspond to the following general formula (I):

(I)

In which X ⁺ denotes a cationic counterion, in particular an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium, preferably ammonium, or a mixture of cations; R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical such as methyl, preferably R1 denotes a hydrogen atom.

Preferably, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer(s) according to the invention are partially or totally salified in the form of an ammonium salt.

More preferentially, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer(s) according to the invention are totally salified, preferably in the form of an ammonium salt.

The AMPS® copolymer(s) comprise at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group which is preferably an ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one hydrocarbon fatty chain part comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, preferentially from 6 to 22 and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

This hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomer is preferably chosen from the acrylates or the acrylamides of formula (II):

(II)

in which R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical, preferably methyl; Y denotes O or NH; R ₂ denotes a hydrophobic hydrocarbon radical comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and even more preferentially from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; x designates a number ranging from 0 to 100.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in formula (II), Y denotes an oxygen atom.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in formula (II), the group R ₁ represents a methyl.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, x represents an integer between 3 and 25.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in formula (II), the group R ₂ represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

According to an even more preferred embodiment of the invention, in formula (II), Y denotes an oxygen atom, the group R ₁ represents a methyl, the group R ₂ represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 atoms of carbon, and x represents an integer between 3 and 25.

Preferably, the monomer with a hydrophobic group of formula (II) is ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate (25EO) corresponding to the compound of formula (II) in which the group R ₁ represents a methyl, the group Y denotes O, the group R ₂ represents an alkyl radical containing 18 carbon atoms and x is equal to 25.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the monomer with a hydrophobic group of formula (II) is tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate (4EO), corresponding to the compound of formula (II) in which the R ₁ group represents a methyl, the group Y denotes O, group R ₂ represents an alkyl radical containing 12 carbon atoms and x is equal to 4.

In this embodiment, the monomer with a hydrophobic group is preferably tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the AMPS® copolymer may comprise at least one monomer of formula (II) in which x is equal to 0, with Y preferably denoting an oxygen atom, the group R1 representing a methyl, the R2 group represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

In this embodiment, the monomer with a hydrophobic group is preferably lauryl methacrylate.

According to another particular embodiment, the AMPS® copolymer comprises at least one monomer of formula (II) in which x is equal to 0, with Y preferably denoting an oxygen atom, the group R ₁ representing a methyl , the R ₂ group represents an alkyl radical containing from 12 to 18 carbon atoms and at least one monomer of formula (II) in which Y denotes an oxygen atom, the R ₁ group represents a methyl, the R ₂ group represents an alkyl radical containing from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and x represents an integer between 3 and 25, preferably x is equal to 4.

In this embodiment, the AMPS® copolymer preferably comprises, as monomers with a hydrophobic group, lauryl methacrylate and tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.

Preferably, the monomer with a hydrophobic group is ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate (25EO).

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the AMPS® copolymer may also comprise at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer not comprising any hydrophobic group preferably corresponding to the following general formula (III):

(III)

in which R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, preferably R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom, R ₂ denotes a linear or branched C ₁ -C alkyl radical ₄ and R ₃ denote a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, preferably R ₂ and R ₃ denote a methyl.

The ethylenically unsaturated monomer not comprising a hydrophobic group is chosen from (meth)acrylamides such as acrylamide, (meth)acrylic acids and their esters ((meth)acrylates) such as (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate ), vinyl pyrrolidone, N-(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkylacrylamides, N,N-di(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkylacrylamide such as N,N-dimethyl acrylamide.

In this embodiment, the ethylenically unsaturated monomer not comprising any hydrophobic group is preferably N,N-dimethylacrylamide.

Preferably, the AMPS® copolymer is a copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulphonic acid, preferably completely salified, preferably in the form of the ammonium salt, and ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate (25EO).

Mention may be made, as AMPS® copolymer, of the copolymer marketed under the reference Aristoflex HMS by the company Clariant, with the INCI name Ammonium acryoyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer.

The AMPS® copolymer(s) described above may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight and even more preferably from 0. 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

gelling agent

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional hydrophilic gelling agent, different from the AMPS® copolymer described above.

However, if present, this compound is implemented in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not altered by its presence.

It may in particular be a natural or synthetic polymeric gelling agent.

By way of natural gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of those falling within the category of polysaccharides such as homopolysaccharides like fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans; heteropolysaccharides like cellulose; linear polysaccharides like pullulan or branched like gum arabic and amylopectin, or mixed like starch.

The compounds of this type, which can be used in the present invention, can be chosen from those which are described in particular in “Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, volume 3, pp. 896-900, and volume 15, pp 439-458", in "Polymers in Nature, by E. A. Mc GREGOR and C. T. GREENWOOD, Editions John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp 240-328, 1980", in the work of Robert L. DAVIDSON entitled "Handbook of Water soluble gums and resins" published by Mc Graw Hill Book Company (1980) and in the Industrial Gums "Polysaccharides and their Derivatives, Edited by Roy L. WHISTLER, Second Edition, Edition Academic Press Inc .”.

Preferably, the polysaccharide can be xanthan gum.

The polysaccharide(s) derived from the plant can, if necessary, be chemically modified to promote their hydrophilic valence, as is the case with cellulose derivatives, in particular hydroxyalkyl celluloses (e.g.: hydroxyethyl cellulose).

As examples of polysaccharides of plant origin that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of:
- seaweed extracts, such as alginates, carrageenans, agar agars, and mixtures thereof. As examples of carrageenans, mention may be made of Satiagum UTC30® and UTC10® from the company Cargill; as alginates, mention may be made of sodium alginate sold under the name Kelcosol® by the company ISP;
- gums, such as guar gum and their nonionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac or mannan gum, Tragacanth gum, Ghatti gum, Karaya gum, locust bean gum; as examples, mention may be made of guar gum marketed under the name Jaguar HP105® by the company Rhodia; mannan gum and konjac® (1% glucomannan) marketed by the company GfN;
- celluloses and their derivatives, in particular alkyl or hydroxyalkyl celluloses; mention may in particular be made of methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, carboxymethylcelluloses. As examples, mention may be made of cetyl hydroxy ethyl cellulose under the names Polysurf 67CS® and Natrosol Plus 330® from Aqualon;
- and mixtures thereof.

As regards synthetic polymeric gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of crosslinked acrylic homo- or co-polymers; associative polymers, in particular associative polymers of the polyurethane type; polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, crosslinked and/or neutralized; carboxyvinyl polymers, modified or not.

Such a gelling agent can be implemented at a rate of 0.01% to 8% by weight in dry matter relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, in particular from 0.1% to 6% by weight, preferably between 0, 2% and 2.5% by weight, in particular at the rate of 0.5% to 2% by weight.

Additives

The composition according to the invention may also comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from deodorant active agents, desquamating agents, antimicrobial agents, moisturizing agents, soothing agents, antioxidant agents, astringent agents, anti-aging agents, anti-wrinkle agents; softeners, antioxidants, stabilizers, vitamins, bactericides, preservatives, fillers, nacres, pigments, dyes, perfumes or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application, and mixtures thereof .

Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition(s) envisaged. .

Charge

[ 00160] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one filler.

By "fillers", within the meaning of the present invention, it is necessary to understand the colorless or white particles, solids of all shapes, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic nature, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

Of course, these fillers are used in suitable contents and conditions so as not to be detrimental to the compositions.

Modified starches

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one filler chosen from modified starches, in particular esterified ones, and mixtures thereof.

The modified or unmodified starches can be derived for example from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, from vegetables such as golden peas, from tubers such as potatoes or cassava, tapioca starches.

Preferably, the modified starches suitable for the invention are esterified starch salts. Better still, the modified starches according to the invention are starch salts esterified with octenylsuccinic anhydride.

As compounds suitable according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of the calcium, sodium or aluminum salts obtained by reaction of octenylsuccinic anhydride with a corn starch.

The modified starches in accordance with the invention are preferably in the form of powders. These powders generally have an average size of between 2 μm and 30 μm, better still between 10 μm and 20 μm.

Modified starches suitable according to the invention are sold in particular under the trade name "DRY FLO PLUS" or DRY FLO PURE by the company NATIONAL STARCH - Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate sold in particular under the trade name "CAPSUL" by the company NATIONAL STARCH; Calcium Starch Octenylsuccinate sold under the trade name "SKIN FLOW-C" by the company MILDWEST GRAIN PRODUCTS.

Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate will be used more particularly.

Modified starch can be oxidized and esterified starch (or oxidized starch ester).

The term “ oxidized ” means that at least one hydroxy of the starch has been oxidized in particular in position 6 of a glucose unit of the starch, the groups –CH ₂ -OH becoming an aldehyde group –C(O) -H or carboxylic –C(O)-OH.

The term “ ester ” or “esterified” means that at least one hydroxy group of the glucose A unit of the starch is esterified by a (thio) carboxylic acid, particularly a (C1-C8) (thio) carboxylic acid, and preferably with an acetic acid to obtain an ester B, C or D with C and D corresponding respectively to the end or the beginning of the starch, Ra, Rb, Rc, Rd, and Re representing a hydrogen atom or a group alkyl(thio)carbonyl such as (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl-C(O)- or (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl-C(S)-, it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, Rd and Re represent an alkyl (thio) carbonyl in at least one unit of the starch:

Thus “ oxidized ester ” means that at least one hydroxy group of the starch is oxidized as defined above and that at least one other hydroxy group of the starch is esterified as defined above.

According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises, as esterified oxidized starch, a starch which comprises at least one linear glucose polymer, that is to say an amylose derivative of formula (I) and/or at least one polymer branched glucose, that is to say an amylopectin derivative of formula (II) , their anomers, preferably alpha anomers, their salts and their solvates such as their hydrates:

(I)

(II)

Formulas (I) and (II) in which: :
- R ¹ , R ² , R ³ , R ⁴ , and R ⁵ , identical or different, represent a hydroxymethyl group –CH ₂ -OH or an oxidized form such as –CH ₂ -C(O)-H, or –C (O)-OH, it being understood that at least one of the radicals R ¹ , R ² , R ³ , R ⁴ , or R ⁵ represents an oxidized form, preferably –C(O)-OH, and more particularly R ⁴ is an oxidized form and R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁵ represents a hydroxymethyl group; :
- R ⁷ , R ⁸ , R ⁹ , R ¹⁰ , R ¹¹ , R ¹² , R ¹³ , R ¹⁴ , R ¹⁵ , and R ¹⁶ , identical or different, represent a hydroxy group or a group (C ₁ -C ₈ ) alkylcarbonyloxy, or a (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylthiocarbonyloxy group, preferably a hydroxy group or a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkylcarbonyloxy group such as an acetyl group, it being understood that at least one of the radicals:
- R ⁷ , R ⁸ , R ⁹ , R ¹⁰ , R ¹¹ , R ¹² , R ¹³ , R ¹⁴ , R ¹⁵ , or R ¹⁶ represents a group (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylcarbonyloxy, or a group (C ₁ - C ₈ )alkylthiocarbonyloxy, preferably a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkylcarbonyloxy group such as an acetyl group,:
more particularly R ⁷ , R ⁸ , R ⁹ , R ¹⁰ , R ¹¹ , R ¹³ , R ¹⁴ , R ¹⁵ , and R ¹⁶ represent a hydroxy group and R ¹² represents a (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylcarbonyloxy group or a group (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylthiocarbonyloxy, preferably a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkylcarbonyloxy group such as an acetyl group:
n represents an integer, for example between 50 and 300,000, preferably between 100 and 200,000, more particularly from 200 to 100,000, even better from 400 to 100,000 and even better from 470 to 95,000.:
The average molecular weight of the modified amylopectin of formula (II) is at least 10 ⁷ and may be greater than 10 ⁹ .

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxidized starch ester comprises a mixture of linear and branched glucose polymers, that is to say a mixture of amylose derivatives and amylopectin derivatives and more particularly in an amount ranging from 10 to 40% by weight of amylose and from 60 to 90% of amylopectin; and preferably 15-20% amylose and 80-85% amylopectin.

According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxidized starch ester comprises a majority of amylose derivatives, preferably from 60 to 100% and more particularly from 80 to 85% by weight.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxidized starch ester, preferably the oxidized starch acetate, comprises amylose derivatives of formula (I) having an average molecular weight of 10 ⁴ to 10 ⁷ , preferably 10 ⁵ -10 ⁶ , which means that they have an average degree of polymerization (DP, number of glucosyl units per molecule) ranging from 50 to 20,000, preferably from 100 to 10,000 more particularly from 600 to 6000.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the oxidized starch ester, preferably the oxidized starch acetate, is derived from any natural starch originating from plants.

Such a natural starch can be found, for example, in arrowroot, tapioca, potato, sweet potato, beans (broad bean and pea), lentils, buckwheat, banana, barley, cassava, maize, kudzu, Peruvian oca ( Oxalis tuberosa Molina), rice, sago, sorghum, taro, wheat and mixtures thereof. Preferably according to the invention, tapioca, potato and wheat are used to produce the esterified and in particular acetylated oxidized starch according to the invention. Preferably, tapioca starch will be used.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the oxidized starch ester is an acetylated modified starch. Preferably " acetylated modified starch " is a white powder with an INS number E 1451, and a CAS number 68187-08-6.

According to the present invention, the viscosity of the oxidized starch ester, particularly the acetylated starch is in the ranges from 10cP to 2000cP, preferably from 18cP to 1500cP, more particularly from 18cP to 1400cP at a temperature of at least 25°C, preferably at a temperature of at least 45°C, preferably below 85°C. The viscosity of oxidized modified starch ester, particularly acetylated modified starch, is evaluated using a Brookfield viscometer, NDJ-1.

The esterification index is preferably greater than 0.05.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amount of ester such as a (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylcarbonyloxy group, or a (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylthiocarbonyloxy group, preferably a (C ₁ - C ₆ ) alkylcarbonyloxy such as acetyl, of an esterified oxidized starch, in particular acetylated ranges from 0.1% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the starch. It being understood that the percentage corresponds to the number of hydroxy groups on the starch having been esterified with respect to the molecular weight of the modified starch.

According to the present invention, the oxidized starch ester, particularly the acetylated oxidized starch comprises from 0.25% to 5% of carboxyl group, preferably from 0.3% to 0.75% of carboxyl group, more preferably from 0.35% to 0.5 % of carboxyl group relative to the total weight of the starch.

Advantageously, the oxidized starch ester, preferably the acetylated oxidized starch is an acetylated oxidized tapioca starch with a viscosity of about 1400cP at 25°C. It contains about 0.4% by weight of carboxyl groups and about 0.7 to 0.8% by weight of acetyl groups.

According to a preferred embodiment, the esterified oxidized starch is a starch which comprises at least one linear glucose polymer, that is to say an amylose derivative of formula (I) and/or at least one branched glucose polymer, c that is to say an amylopectin derivative of formula (II) as defined above in which n is between 470 and 95,000 and

R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁵ represent a hydroxymethyl group;

R ⁷ , R ⁸ , R ⁹ , R ¹⁰ , R ¹¹ , R ¹³ , R ¹⁴ , R ¹⁵ , and R ¹⁶ , represent a hydroxy group and;

R ⁴ represents a carboxy–C(O)-OH group or uses salts; And

R ¹² represents a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkylcarbonyloxy group such as acetyl.

Such a starch is in particular marketed under the name “Acetylated oxidized starch” by the company Zhucheng Xingmao Corn Developing Co., Ltd., under the name “OXC-10” by Suzhou Gaofeng Starch Technology Co., Ltd. Or as “MS#6100” by Asia Modified Starch Co., Ltd, etc.

Esterified oxidized modified starch can be easily produced in a manner known to those skilled in the art. For example, the manufacturing process includes two reaction steps oxidation and esterification. The oxidation step can be done by dispersing the native starch in water then oxidation with sodium hydroxide and sodium hypochlorite. Sodium metabisulphite is then added to stop the reaction and then neutralized with hydrochloric acid. The esterification step can be carried out by esterifying the starch obtained in step 1 with acetic anhydride then neutralization with hydrochloric acid. In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises in in addition to at least one compound chosen from modified or unmodified starches or an oxidized starch ester, in particular chosen from salts of starch esterified with octenylsuccinic anhydride and/or or an acetylated oxidized starch and mixtures thereof.

Hyaluronic acid

In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient chosen from hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives.

In the context of the present invention, the term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” covers in particular the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of formula:

This is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl glucosamine.

The term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” also includes, within the scope of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymeric unit described above, according to a sequence via the alternating glycosidic bonds β(1,4) and β(1,3), having a molecular weight (MW) which can vary between 380 and 13000000 daltons. This molecular weight largely depends on the source of obtaining the hyaluronic acid and/or the methods of preparation.

The term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” also includes, in the context of the present invention, the salts of hyaluronic acid and in particular the alkaline salts such as the sodium salt and the potassium salt.

In its natural state, hyaluronic acid is present in peri-cellular gels, in the basic substance of the connective tissues of vertebrate organs such as the dermis and epithelial tissues and in particular in the epidermis, in the synovial fluid articular, in the vitreous humor, in the human umbilical cord and in the cristagalli process.

Thus, the term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" includes all the fractions or subunits of hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight in particular included in the molecular weight range mentioned above.

In the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use fractions of hyaluronic acid which do not exhibit inflammatory activity.

By way of illustration of the different hyaluronic acid fractions, reference may be made to the document “Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich system”, R. Stern et al, European Journal of Cell Biology 58 (2006) 699-715, which reviews the listed biological activities of hyaluronic acid based on its molecular weight.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hyaluronic acid fractions suitable for the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight of between 50000 and 5000000, in particular between 100000 and 5000000, in particular between 400000 and 5000000 Da . In this case, we are talking about high molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions which can also be adapted to the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight of between 50,000 and 400,000 Da. In this case, we speak of hyaluronic acid of intermediate molecular weight.

Alternatively again, the hyaluronic acid fractions that can be adapted to the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight of less than 50,000 Da. In this case, we speak of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is devoid of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

Finally, the term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" also includes esters of hyaluronic acid, in particular those in which all or part of the carboxylic groups of the acid functions are esterified with alcohols or oxyethylenated alkyls, comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular with a degree of substitution at the level of D-glucuronic acid of hyaluronic acid varying from 0.5 to 50%.

Mention may in particular be made of the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. Such esters have in particular been described in D. Campoccia et al. "Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification", Biomaterials 19 (1998) 2101-2127.

The molecular weights indicated above are also valid for hyaluronic acid esters.

Hyaluronic acid can in particular be supplied by the company Hyactive under the trade name CPN (PM: 10 to 150 kDa), by the company Soliance under the trade name Cristalhyal (PM: 1.1 x 106), by the company Bioland under the name Nutra HA (PM: 820000 Da), by the company Bioland under the name Nutra AF (PM: 69000 Da), by the company Bioland under the name Oligo HA (PM: 6100 Da) or by the company Vam Farmacos Metica under the name D Factor (PM: 380 Da).

In one embodiment, the hyaluronic acid is present as spheres. In particular, such spheres are marketed by BASF under the name Hyaluronic Acid Sphere. It is a mixture of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights, namely PM 1.5 x 106, 400000 and 600000 Da.

Preferably, sodium hyaluronate is used.

Hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives may be present in the composition according to the present invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5%, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 3%, and more particularly ranging from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oil phase

The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one oily phase.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “oily phase” means a phase comprising at least one oil and all the liposoluble and lipophilic ingredients and fatty substances used for the formulation of the compositions of the invention.

By oil is meant any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20 – 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

The oily phase may comprise, in addition to the lipophilic screening agent(s) and the fatty alcohol(s) according to the invention, at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and/or a volatile and or non-volatile silicone oil and/or a volatile fluorinated oil. and or non-volatile, and/or at least one wax.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si—O group.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen. Thus these oils may in particular contain one or more carboxy, ester, ether or hydroxy functions.

The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

By “volatile oil” is meant, within the meaning of the invention, an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fiber in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil or oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^{- 3} to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm of Hg).

By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10 ^-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa) .

As non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of:

(i) hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as triesters of glycerides which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol whose fatty acids can have chain lengths varying from C ₄ to C ₂₄ , the latter possibly be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheat germ, sunflower, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean oil, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bankoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel;

(ii) synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

(iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof;

(iv) synthetic esters such as oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' is ≥ 10, such as Purcellin's oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, benzoate of C ₁₂ -C alcohols ₁₅ as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN®" or "Witconol TN®" by the company WITCO or "TEGOSOFT TN ®" by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate as the commercial product sold under the name “X-TEND 226®” by ISP Company, Isopropyl Lanolate, Hexyl Laurate, Diisopropyl Adipate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Oleyl Erucate, 2-Ethyl Palmitate -hexyl, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name from “Dub Dis” by the company Stearinerie Dubois, isopropyl isostearate such as the product sold under the name Jolee 7739 by the company OLEON; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates such as linear C ₁₂ -C ₁₃ di-alkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI® by the company ENICHEM AUGUSTA INDUSTRIALE as well as linear C ₁₄ -C ₁₅ di-alkyl tartrates such as than those sold under the name COSMACOL ETL® by the same company; acetates;

(v) fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;

(vi) higher C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;

(vii) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate such as the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC®” by the company Cognis;

and their mixtures.

Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils which can be used according to the invention, preference will be given more particularly to glyceride triesters and in particular the triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, synthetic esters and in particular diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol. Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils are chosen from diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate.

As volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes such as C ₈ -C ₁₆ isoalkanes of petroleum origin. (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permetyls, esters branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ , iso-hexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO2008/155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes different from at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from copra or palm oil. Mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (C ₁₁ ) and n-tridecane (C ₁₃ ) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008/155059 from the company Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C ₁₂ ) and n-tetradecane (C ₁₄ ) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97®, as well as their mixtures.

Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt® by the company SHELL, can also be used. According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures.

The non-volatile silicone oils can be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, silicones phenyl such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity ≤ 8 centistokes (8.10 ^-6 m ² /s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may in particular be made of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of volatile alkyltrisiloxane linear oils of the following formula:

where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and of which one or more hydrogen atoms may be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.

Among the oils of formula 8, mention may be made of:

3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane,

3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, and

3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane,

corresponding to the oils of formula 8 for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group.

It is also possible to use fluorinated volatile oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof.

An oily phase according to the invention may also comprise, mixed with or dissolved in the oil, other fatty substances, such as a fatty acid chosen from fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid, and/or at least one wax, a gum chosen from silicone gums (dimethiconol), or a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds , esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax.

The wax(es) considered in the context of the present invention is (are) generally a lipophilic compound, insoluble in water, solid at room temperature (20° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), with reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C which can range up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.

In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45° C., and in particular greater than or equal to 55° C.

Within the meaning of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments.

Preferably, the waxes comprise at least one crystallizable part, visible by X-ray diffraction observations.

Preferably, the waxes have an enthalpy of fusion ΔHf greater than or equal to 70 J/g.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to an initial rise in temperature ranging from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, then is cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature rise, the following parameters are measured:

- the melting point (Tm) of the wax, as previously mentioned corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the melting curve observed, representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature,

- ∆Hf: the melting enthalpy of the wax corresponding to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained. This wax melting enthalpy is the amount of energy required to change the compound from solid to liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.

The wax(es) may be hydrocarbon(s), fluorinated(s) and/or silicone(s) and be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.

They can be hydrocarbon.

As examples, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, such as natural beeswax (or bleached beeswax), such as for example that which is marketed under the name WHITE BEESWAX SP 453P® by the company STRAHL & PITSCH or that marketed under the name CIRE D'ABEILLE BLANCHE (GR B 889)® by the company KOSTER KEUNEN, and synthetic beeswax such as oxyethylenated beeswax , carnauba wax, rice bran wax such as that marketed under the reference NC 1720 by the company CERA RICA NODA, candelilla wax such as that marketed under the reference SP 75 G by the company STRAHL & PITSCH, the microcrystalline waxes such as for example microcrystalline waxes whose melting point is greater than 85°C such as the HI-MIC® 1070, 1080, 1090 and 3080 products marketed by the company NIPPON SEIRO, ceresins or ozokerites such as is oparaffins whose melting point is below 40° C. such as the product EMW-0003 marketed by the company NIPPON SEIRO, α-olefin oligomers such as the PERFORMA V® 825, 103 and 260 polymers marketed by the company NEW TECHNOLOGY PHASE; ethylene-propylene copolymers such as PERFORMALENE® EP 700, polyethylene waxes (preferably with a molecular weight between 400 and 600), Fischer-Tropsch waxes, sunflower seed wax marketed by the company KOSTER KEUNEN under the sunflower wax reference.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one amphiphilic wax.

By “amphiphilic” wax is meant a wax comprising at least one hydrophilic part.

The amphiphilic wax(es) may in particular be hydrocarbon-based.

By "hydrocarbon wax" is meant a wax formed essentially, or even consisting, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups. As hydrocarbon wax, a wax chosen from ester waxes and alcohol waxes is particularly preferred.

By “ester wax”, is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one ester function. By “alcohol wax”, is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

The amphiphilic wax(es) preferably used is (are) chosen from hydrocarbon waxes esterified with at least one oxyethylenated or glycerolated group, and their mixture(s), preferably with at least five groups oxyethylenated, glycerolated, and mixture(s) thereof.

The amphiphilic wax(es) preferably used is (are) chosen from beeswax esterified with at least one oxyethylenated group, preferably polyoxyethylenated, polyglycerolated beeswax, a polyglycerolated vegetable wax such as of mimosa, jojoba, sunflower, and their mixtures.

Mention may in particular be made, as wax that can be used according to the invention, of the mixture of polyglycerolated vegetable waxes (mimosa/jojoba/sunflower) (3 moles) marketed under the name ACTICIRE® by the company Gattefosse (INCI name: JOJOBA ESTERS (and) HELIANTHUS ANNUUS ( SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX (and) POLYGLYCERIN-3 (and) ACACIA DECURRENS FLOWER WAX).

Preferably, the wax(es) are chosen from the group consisting of polyglycerolated vegetable wax of mimosa, jojoba, sunflower, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of polyglycerolated mimosa, sunflower and jojoba waxes, preferably comprises a mixture of waxes consisting of 50-70% by weight of jojoba wax, 30-40% by weight of sunflower wax and 1-5% by weight of mimosa wax, and 1-5% by weight of polyglycerin-3 relative to the total weight of said mixture.

The wax or waxes are present in a total content of 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 1 to 4% by weight, in particular from 2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax which is chosen from amphiphilic waxes, preferably chosen from hydrocarbon waxes esterified with at least one oxyethylenated or glycerolated group, and mixtures thereof, is preferably present at a total content of 0.5% to 5% by weight, 1 to 4% by weight, in particular 1.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition

Preferably, the overall oily phase, including all the lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase, including the lipophilic screening agents, represents from 5 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase contains water, and optionally other water-soluble or water-miscible organic solvents.

An aqueous phase suitable for the invention may comprise, for example, water chosen from natural spring water, such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel, water from Saint Gervais Mont Blanc, or Vichy waters, or a floral water.

Soluble or water-miscible solvents suitable for the invention include, in addition to short-chain alcohols as defined above, diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3 -butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol, and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises glycerin at a content of 1 to 20% by weight, preferably 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular form of the invention, the overall aqueous phase, including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase, represents from 5 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 80% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Dosage forms

The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art. They may in particular be in the form of an aqueous composition. They can also be in particular in the form of an emulsion, simple or complex (O/W, W/O, O/W/O or W/O/W) such as a cream, a milk or a cream gel. .

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion. It may in particular be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (direct emulsion) or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (inverse emulsion). Preferably, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

The emulsions can generally also contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are chosen appropriately according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W).

As an example of W/O emulsifying surfactants, mention may be made of alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol, glycerol or sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C®" by the company Dow Corning, and alkyl-dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name " Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the Dow Corning Company; cetyl dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R® by the company Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE O9 ® by Goldschmidt. One or more co-emulsifiers can also be added thereto, which, advantageously, can be chosen from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters.

Mention may also be made of non-silicone emulsifying surfactants, in particular alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol or sugars.

As polyol alkyl esters, mention may in particular be made of polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel P135® by the company ICI.

As glycerol and/or sorbitan esters, mention may be made, for example, of polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Isolan GI 34® by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 987® by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 986® by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.

For O/W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as nonionic emulsifying surfactants of polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol esters (more particularly polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylene) such as the polyethylene glycol ester and stearic acid of INCI name PEG-100 STEARATE marketed under the name Myrj S100-PA-(SG) by the company CRODA; oxyalkylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters; polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (in particular polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylene) optionally in combination with a fatty acid and glycerol ester, such as the PEG-100 Stearate/Glyceryl Stearate mixture marketed for example by the company ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, in particular alkylpolyglucosides (APG) such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside marketed for example by the company Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000® and Plantaren 1200®, cetostearylglucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name Montanov 68® by the company Seppic, under the name Tegocare CG90® by the company Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302® by the company Henkel, as well as arachidyl glucoside, for example under the form of the mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and of arachidylglucoside marketed under the name Montanov 202® by the company Seppic. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol can be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described for example in document WO- A-92/06778.

When it is an emulsion, the aqueous phase thereof may comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known methods (Bangham, Standish and Watkins. J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).

The compositions according to the invention find their application in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetic, of the skin, of the lips, in particular for the protection and/or the care of the skin, of the lips, and/or for the make-up of the skin and/or lips.

In a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention advantageously has an SPF value greater than 10, preferably greater than 30.

Another object of the present invention consists of the use of the compositions according to the invention as defined above for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, in particular care products, sun protection products and make-up products.

According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process, preferably non-therapeutic, for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and/or the face, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined above.

In a preferred mode, the method according to the invention aims to protect keratin materials, in particular the skin, from UVA and UVB rays, which are liable to alter the biomechanical properties of the epidermis and to lead to a degradation of the collagen fibers. and elastin.

The composition can be applied by hand or using an applicator.

In one embodiment according to the invention, the compositions can be applied to keratin materials, in particular the skin, by not applying wipes in which they have been impregnated beforehand.

Thus, according to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for the care of keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and/or the face.

The expressions “ between … and … ” and “ ranging from … to … ” must be understood as limits included, unless the contrary is specified.

In the description and the examples, the percentages are percentages by weight. The ingredients are mixed, in the order and under conditions easily determined by those skilled in the art.

Examples

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without however being limiting. In these examples, the amounts of the ingredients of the compositions are given in% by weight of raw materials relative to the total weight of the composition.

Method of preparation of compositions in emulsion form

Preparation of phase A

Introduce all the ingredients of phase A, in water heated to 60°C.

Preparation of phase B

Phase B is heated to 65°C until a transparent phase is obtained.

Emulsification:

Introduction of B into phase A with stirring at 65°C.

Add the different phases (from C to G) one after the other.

Evaluation protocol filtering efficiency In vitro: The sun protection factor (SPF) is determined according to the “in vitro” method described by B. L. Diffey in J. Soc. Cosmetic. Chem. 40, 127-133, (1989), and by S Miksa in International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 37, 555-566, (2015). The measurements were carried out using a UV-1000S spectrophotometer from Labsphere.

The in vitro UVA protection factor (PPD) of a sun protection product against UVA radiation calculated mathematically by in vitro spectral modeling according to the ISO 24443:2012 (Fr) protocol.

Each composition is applied to six rough PMMA plates, in the form of a homogeneous and regular deposit at a rate of 1.3 mg/cm2 on the HD6 plates and 1.2 mg/cm² on the SB6 plates. The spreading of each composition is done using an automated robot which makes regular and uniform movements on three plates called HD6 (molded granular plates) and three plates called SB6 (sanded granular plates). The plate is weighed before and after spreading. Once the six plates are spread, we let them rest in Thermasters in the dark at 25°C for 30 minutes. We carry out the measurements using the UV-2000S spectrophotometer from the company Labsphere. We make 9 measurements per plate, then we analyze the measurements using an Excel spreadsheet which provides us with the SPF values from the measured values: The in vitro SPF of the composition is calculated from a weighted average of the absorbance measured on each type of plate (0.225*Abs HD6 + 0.800*Abs SB6).

Viscosity evaluation protocol

Viscosity was assessed using a Rheomat RH180 viscometer. We use a mobile 3, in view of the consistency of the product. After the calibrated viscometer, we introduce the mobile into the product and let it run for 10 minutes. We take the measurement at 10 seconds and 10 minutes.

Protocol for evaluating the stability of the compositions of the invention

To assess the stability of the juice, accelerated aging is carried out at different temperatures (25°C, 45°C), and controls are carried out at different times, up to two months.

Assessment sensory

For each of the following compositions, the cosmetic properties were evaluated according to the following protocol. The cosmetic properties on application are assessed, monadically, by a panel of experts (5 in number) trained in the description of skincare products. The sensory evaluation of skincare products by this panel is carried out as follows. Within the same session, the samples are presented in randomized order for each panelist. Each panelist evaluates the following descriptors on a scale noted from 1 to 5: 1 = not, 2 = little, 3 = moderately, 4 = quite, 5 = very;

Playtime = duration of spreading the product on the hand until complete drying.

Stickiness: evaluation made at the end of application after drying.

Filmogenic: Evaluation at the end of application after drying of the presence or absence of a film on the skin.

Residue: Evaluation at the end of application after drying of what remains on the skin.

Example 1 – Compositions 1 to 4

The following compositions are prepared, compositions 1 and 2 according to the invention, and compositions 3 and 4 comparative.

Phase Ingredients FORMULA 1 FORMULA 2 FORMULA 3 FORMULA 4 AT Base 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 AT Assets 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 AT Dye 0.0010 0.0010 0.001 0.001 AT Conservative 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 AT Water SQ 100% SQ 100% SQ 100% SQ 100% AT Sequestrant 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 AT Glycol 7 10 7 10 7 10 7 10 AT BIS-PEG-18 METHYL ETHER DIMETHYL SILANE 2 2 2 2 AT CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 AT Acid 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 B BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE [PARSOL 1789 from DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS] 3 3 3 3 B ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE [OCTOCRYLENE from MFCI] 5 5 5 5 B ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 3 3 3 3 B OCTOCRYLENE [OCTOCRYLENE from MFCI] 7 7 7 7 B DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0.65 0.65 0.65 0.5 B Scent 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 B JOJOBA ESTERS (and) HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX (and) POLYGLYCERIN-3 (and) ACACIA DECURRENS FLOWER WAX [ACTICIRE
of the company GATTEFOSSE] 2 2 2 2 B POLYGLYCERYL-6 DISTEARATE (and) JOJOBA ESTERS (and) CETYL ALCOHOL (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 BEESWAX [EMULIUM MELLIFERA from the company: GATTEFOSSE] 3 3 3 3 B STYRENE/ACRYLATES COPOLYMER / PEG-8 LAURATE / WATER/AQUA / SODIUM DODECYLBENZENESULFONATE [SUNSPHERES POWDER from ROHM AND HAAS (DOW CHEMICAL)] 2 B BORON NITRIDE [BORON NITRIDE POWDER TRES BN PUHP 3002 from SAINT GOBAIN CERAMICS] 2 2 B SILICA (and) TITANIUM DIOXIDE [COSMO BOOSTER 600 from JGC CATALYSTS & CHEMICALS] 2 VS XANTHAN GUM 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 VS SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 VS AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/STEARETH-25 METHACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER [ARISTOFLEX HMS from CLARIANT] 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 D VINYL DIMETHICONE/METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER [KSP 100 from Shin Etsu Company) 2 2 2 2 E ALUMINUM STARCH OCTENYLSUCCINATE [DRY FLO PLUS from AKZO NOBEL (NOURYON)] 2 2 E OXIDIZED STARCH ACETATE [GF-A390
of FOSHAN GAOFENG STARCH TECHNOLOGY] 2 2 F DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (KSG 16 from Shin Etsu) 2, 2 2 2 F DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONOL (XIAMETER PMX-1503 FLUID from DOW CORNING (DOW CHEMICAL)) 2 2 2 2 G ALOOL DENAT. 3 3 3 3

Results obtained

The results of the sensory analysis and evaluation of the SPF Vitro are as follows.

Composition FORMULA 1 FORMULA 2 FORMULA 3 FORMULA 4 SPF Glass 26±4 24±3 22±2 19 ± 3 Viscosity (mPa.s) 22 45.20 12.40 12.40 Stability (2 months at room temperature and 2 months at 45°C) STEADY STEADY STEADY STEADY play time 3.3 2.8 3.3 3 Residue 1.6 1.8 2.5 2.1 Sticky 1.5 1.8 1.2 1.3 Filmogenic 2 1.9 2.1 2.2

Unexpectedly, compositions 1 and 2, which comprise the boron nitride in accordance with the invention, exhibit a higher level of sun protection than compositions 3 to 4 which do not comprise boron nitride, and which comprise an ingredient known for its SPF booster, such as SILICA (and) TITANIUM DIOXIDE (Cosmobooster) or STYRENE/ACRYLATES COPOLYMER (Sunsphere Powder) (comparative compositions 3 and 4).

These compositions 1 and 2 according to the invention also unexpectedly exhibit a preserved sensory experience, their evaluated criteria of playtime, stickiness, residue and film-forming do not show any significant difference with the comparative compositions 3 and 4.

The compositions according to the invention 1 and 2, which comprise organic UV screening agents, at least one nonionic surfactant of the ester type comprising a mixture of at least one monounsaturated ester and of at least one polyglycerol diester and nitride of boron, have an improved level of sun protection, while having a pleasant sensoriality suitable for daily use which is similar and of the same sensory level as comparative compositions 3 and 4.

Claims (24)

Composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising:
- at least one organic UV filter;
- at least one nonionic surfactant of ester type comprising a mixture of at least one monounsaturated ester and at least one polyglycerol diester; And
- boron nitride. Composition according to Claim 1, in which the boron nitride is present at a content ranging from 0.1% to 6% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 1% to 2 5% relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, in which the organic UV screening agent(s) are chosen from water-soluble organic UV screening agents, fat-soluble organic UV screening agents, insoluble organic UV screening agents, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the organic UV screening agent(s) are chosen from dibenzoylmethane compounds, salicylic compounds, β, β-diphenylacrylate compounds, benzophenone compounds, phenyl benzotriazole compounds, triazine compounds and their mixtures; and more preferably from homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, drometrizole trisiloxane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)- n-hexyl benzoate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, octocrylene and mixtures thereof. A composition according to any preceding claim comprising butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate and octocrylene. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, in which the quantity of the organic UV screening agent(s) a content ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, and even more preferentially from 10 % to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant) of ester type comprises:
i) at least one monounsaturated ester of formula (A);
R ¹ -C(O)-OR ² (A)
in which:
R ¹ and R ² represent, respectively, a C18 to C44 fatty chain, at least R ¹ or R ² is monounsaturated;
ii) at least one polyglycerol diester of formula (B);
R ³ -C(O)-(O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2)nOC(O)-R ⁴ (B)
in which:
R ³ and R ⁴ represent, respectively, a C18 to C44 saturated fatty chain, linear or branched, and
iii) at least one C10-C30 fatty alcohol;
preferably the nonionic surfactant of ester type comprises at least one monounsaturated ester of formula (A) in which R ¹ and R ² represent, respectively, a C18 to C30 fatty chain, and at least one of the groups R ¹ or R ² is monounsaturated; at least one polyglycerol diester of formula (B) in which R ³ -C(O)- and R ⁴ each represent a linear or branched C20-C34 saturated fatty chain; cetyl alcohol. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises a C14-C22 fatty acid diester with a polyglycerol and/or a fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant of ester type is a mixture of polyglyceryl-6 distearate, jojoba esters, polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, and cetyl alcohol . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant of ester type is present at a content of 1% to 6% by weight, preferably 2.5% at 3.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one wax which is chosen from amphiphilic waxes, preferably chosen from hydrocarbon waxes esterified with at least one oxyethylenated or glycerolated group, and mixtures thereof , is preferably present at a total content of 0.5% to 5% by weight, 1 to 4% by weight, in particular 1.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition . Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said wax is a mixture of polyglycerolated vegetable waxes of mimosa, jojoba and sunflower. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at least one acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or one of its salts, preferably the disodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid (INCI name : disodium stearoyl glutamate). Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one copolymer comprising at least one monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulphonic acid (AMPS®) and at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group. Composition according to Claim 14, characterized in that the AMPS® copolymer or copolymers are crosslinked by a crosslinking agent, preferably trimethylol propane triacrylate. Composition according to any one of Claims 14 to 15, characterized in that the monomer or monomers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulphonic acid are totally salified, preferably in the form of an ammonium salt. Composition according to any one of Claims 14 to 16, characterized in that the monomer with a hydrophobic group is chosen from acrylates or acrylamides of formula (II):
(II)
in which R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical, preferably methyl; Y denotes O or NH; R ₂ denotes a hydrocarbon radical comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms and more preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and even more preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; x designates a number ranging from 0 to 100. Composition according to Claim 17, characterized in that in formula (II), Y denotes an oxygen atom, the group R ₁ represents a methyl, the group R ₂ represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, x represents an integer between 3 and 25. Composition according to any one of Claims 17 or 18, characterized in that the monomer with a hydrophobic group of formula (II) is ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate (25EO) corresponding to the compound of formula (II) in which the group R ₁ represents a methyl, the Y group denotes O, the R ₂ group represents an alkyl radical containing 18 carbon atoms and x is equal to 25. Composition according to any one of Claims 14 to 19, characterized in that the AMPS® copolymer is a copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulphonic acid, preferably totally salified, preferably in the form of an ammonium salt and ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate (25EO). Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the AMPS® copolymer(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight and even more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition additionally comprises at least one compound chosen from modified or unmodified starches or an oxidized starch ester, in particular chosen from starch salts esterified with octenylsuccinic anhydride and/or or acetylated oxidized starch and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in the form of an emulsion, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material comprising the application to the surface of the said keratin material of at least one cosmetic composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 23.