FR3134516A1 - Direct emulsion comprising a UV filter, a lipophilic acrylic polymer, a polyol fatty acid ester and an amino acid derivative - Google Patents

Abstract

Direct emulsion comprising a UV filter, a lipophilic acrylic polymer, a polyol fatty acid ester and an amino acid derivative The present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: - at least one UV filter; - at least one polymer comprising monomeric units of formulas (A) and (B): in which : R1, independently of each other, is chosen from alkyl or alkenyl radicals, And at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are radicals chosen from stearyl and behenyl radicals, the percentage by weight relating to the sum of all the R1 groups present in the polymer, And the weight ratio of the sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all acrylate units bearing the R1 group ranges from 1:30 to 1:1; and the sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight of the total weight of the polymer, the polymer having a number average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2,000 to 9,000 g/mol; - at least one ester of C12-C24 fatty acid and C2-C24 polyol; And - at least one surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts. The present invention provides access to a composition having a strong anti-UV protective power, which is stabilized over time, and which also has good cosmetic properties such as a refreshing power and a non-greasy and non-sticky texture.

Description

Direct emulsion comprising a UV filter, a lipophilic acrylic polymer, a polyol fatty acid ester and an amino acid derivative

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising at least one UV filter, at least one suitably selected lipophilic acrylic polymer, at least one acid ester C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty acid and C ₂ -C ₂₄ polyol, and at least one surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chain and their salts, and the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for the care and treatment of keratin materials, and in particular for the care, protection and/or makeup of the skin of the body or face.

We know that light radiation with wavelengths between 280 nm and 400 nm causes the human epidermis to turn brown. Rays of wavelength, particularly between 280 and 320 nm, known as UV-B, cause erythema and skin burns which can harm the development of a natural tan.

For these reasons, as well as for aesthetic reasons, there is a constant demand for means of controlling this natural tan with a view to thus controlling the color of the skin: it is therefore necessary to filter UV-B radiation. We also know that UV-A rays, of wavelength between 320 and 400 nm, which cause browning of the skin, are likely to induce an alteration of the latter, particularly in the case of skin sensitive or skin continuously exposed to solar radiation. UV-A rays in particular cause a loss of skin elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature skin aging.

Thus, for aesthetic and cosmetic reasons, such as preserving the natural elasticity of the skin, for example, more and more people want to control the effect of UV-A rays on their skin. It is therefore desirable to also filter UV-A radiation.

In order to ensure protection of the skin and keratin materials against UV radiation, sunscreen compositions are generally used, comprising organic filters, active in UV-A and active in UV-B.

Numerous cosmetic compositions intended for photoprotection of the skin have been proposed to date. These compositions generally contain, in an emulsified liquid support (preferably oil-in-water emulsion), one or more organic molecules, capable of absorbing ultraviolet radiation, soluble in the oily and/or aqueous phase. The use of mineral metal oxide pigments such as titanium dioxide in such solar compositions is increasingly common because these particles, invisible to the naked eye thanks to their small size, make it possible to increase the sun protection index. protection of compositions containing them.

One of the major disadvantages of these anti-sun emulsions containing organic filters and/or mineral filters lies in the difficulty of reconciling good stability of the product, ease of application of the product, effective protection (at least 40 SPF and 10 PPD) and a fresh, non-sticky feel.

The applicant discovered that this objective could be achieved with the combination of an emulsifying system and a suitably selected lipophilic acrylic polymer.

Thus, the present invention relates, according to a first aspect, to a composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising:
- at least one UV filter;
- at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as defined below;
- at least one ester of C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty acid and C ₂ -C ₂₄ polyol; And
- at least one surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chain, preferably C ₈ -C ₂₄ , and their salts.

Against all expectations, the inventors have found that the implementation, in a photoprotective composition, of the combination of an emulsifying system comprising a fatty acid and polyol ester and an amino acid modified by at least one fatty chain or one of its salts with a suitably selected lipophilic acrylic polymer provides access to a composition that is easy to spread, has strong anti-UV protective power and which is nevertheless stabilized over time, also having good cosmetic properties such as refreshing power and a non-greasy, non-sticky texture.

The invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to the use of a composition as defined above, for the care of keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and/or face.

The invention also relates, according to yet another of its aspects, to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and/or face, comprising at least application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined above.

It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and/or improving the color and/or homogeneity of the complexion comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one composition such as previously defined.

It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and/or treating the signs of aging of a keratin material comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one composition as defined above.

The composition according to the invention has good stability. This stability can be evaluated macroscopically and/or microscopically, after storage for one week, one month, or two months, at room temperature (25°C), at 4°C, at 45°C, or at 55°C. A stable composition generally retains its pleasantness and sensory signature upon application over time. More precisely, the stability of a composition can be evaluated qualitatively, for example by the absence of phase shift phenomena or the appearance of crystals, or quantitatively through monitoring the evolution of parameters such as viscosity or pH. .

For the purposes of the present invention, “ SPF ” (Sun Protection Factor in English) means: the sun protection factor, which measures the level of protection against UVB. The SPF value corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time it takes to get a sunburn with a sunscreen composition and that without a product. More precisely, the term “ SPF ” is defined in the article A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum , J. Soc. Cosmetic. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May/June 1989).

The assessment of SPF (Sun Protection Factor) can be carried out in vitro using the Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material on which the anti-solar composition is applied. For this protocol, polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) plates proved ideal.

The evaluation of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of the compositions can also be carried out in-vivo according to the ISO/EN 24444 protocol “Cosmetics-Sun protection test methods-In-vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) ( 2010).

For the purposes of the present invention, “ PPD ” (Persistent Pigment Darkening in English) means: the index characterizing the protection against UVA. In particular, the “ PPD ” measures the color of the skin observed 2 to 4 hours after exposure to UVA. This method has been adopted since 1996 by the Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) as the official testing procedure for UVA labeling of products and is frequently used by testing laboratories in Europe and the United States; (Japan Cosmetic Industry Association Technical Bulletin. Measurement Standards for UVA protection efficacy. Issued November 21, 1995 and effective of January 1, 1996).

Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the detailed description which follows.

The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium. Here we mean “physiologically acceptable medium” a medium compatible with keratin materials.

In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is understood in particular to mean skin, scalp, keratin fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows, hair and body hair, nails, mucous membranes such as lips. , and more particularly the skin and mucous membranes (body, face, eye contour, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from… to…”.

Furthermore, the expressions “at least one” and “at least” used in this description are respectively equivalent to the expressions “one or more” and “greater or equal”.

By “prevent” or “prevention”, according to the invention is meant the fact of reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of aging of a material. keratin.

By “organic UVA filter” we mean any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm; said molecule can also absorb UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

By “organic UVB filter”, we mean any organic chemical molecule capable of exclusively absorbing UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

By “emulsion” is meant any macroscopically homogeneous kinetically stable composition comprising at least two phases that are immiscible with each other; one being the continuous dispersing phase and the other being dispersed in said continuous phase in the form of droplets. The two phases are kinetically stabilized by at least one emulsifying system generally comprising at least one emulsifying surfactant.

We distinguish between so-called “direct” oil-in-water type emulsions consisting of a continuous aqueous dispersing phase and a discontinuous oily dispersed phase from emulsions of the so-called inverse water-in-oil type consisting of a continuous oily dispersing phase. and an aqueous dispersed discontinuous phase. There are also multiple emulsions such as water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil emulsions.

The compositions according to the invention are direct emulsions.

UV filters

The compositions according to the invention contain one or more UV filters chosen from hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic UV filters and/or one or more mineral pigments. Preferably, the filtering system will consist of at least one hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic UV filter.

By "hydrophilic UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in the form micellar) in a liquid aqueous phase.

By "lipophilic filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form ) in a liquid fatty phase.

By “insoluble UV filter” is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation having a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in most organic solvents such as paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol 812® marketed by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL. This solubility, achieved at 70°C, is defined as the quantity of product in solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of solid in suspension after return to ambient temperature. It can easily be evaluated in the laboratory.

Organic UV filters are chosen in particular from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP 669,323 and US 2,463,264; methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in applications US 5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB 2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 10 162 844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93/04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE 19 855 649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds as described in applications EP 0 967 200, DE 19 746 654, DE 19 755 649, EP-A-1008586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981, and their mixtures.

As examples of organic photoprotective agents, we can cite those designated below by their INCI name and/or their chemical name.

Cinnamic compounds:
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL ® MCX by DSM Nutritial Products,
Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 ® by Symrise,

Dibenzoylmethane compounds:
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL ® 1789 by DSM Nutritial Products,

Salicylic compounds:
Homosalate sold under the name “Parsol® HMS” by the company DSM Nutritional Products,
Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name “NEO HELIOPAN ® OS” by Symrise,

β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds:
Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL ® N 539 T” by BASF,

Benzophenone compounds:
Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name “UVINUL ® M 40” by BASF,
2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-n-hexyl benzoate, INCI name Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, sold under the trade name “UVINUL® A Plus” or in mixture with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate under the trade name “ UVINUL® A Plus B” by the company BASF,
1,1'-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone (CAS 919803-06-8) as described in application WO 2007 /071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 µm) which can be obtained for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in the form aqueous dispersion,

Benzylidene camphor compounds:
4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name “EUSOLEX ® 6300” by MERCK,
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name “MEXORYL ® SX” by NOVEAL,

Phenyl benzimidazole compounds:
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name “EUSOLEX ® 232” by MERCK.

Bis-benzoazolyl compounds:
Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate sold under the trade name “NEO HELIOPAN ® AP” by Symrise,

Phenyl benzotriazole compounds:
Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name “MEXORYL ® XL” by NOVEAL,

Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds:
Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol in particular in solid form such as the product sold under the trade name “MIXXIM BB/100 ®” by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size which varies from 0.01 to 5 μm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 μm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant of structure C _n H _2n+1 O(C ₆ H ₁₀ O ₅ ) _x H in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C ₆ H ₁₀ O ₅ ) and varies from 1.4 to 1.6 as described in patent GB-A-2 303 549 in particular sold under the trade name “TINOSORB ® M” by BASF or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size which varies from 0.02 to 2 μm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 1 .5 μm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 μm, in the presence of at least one mono-(C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) polyglycerol alkyl ester having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5 such that the aqueous dispersions described in application WO 2009/063392, in particular the product marketed under the name “TINOSORB ® WPGL” by the company BASF,

Triazine compounds:
- 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-1,2,4-triazine), INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl triazine,
- Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name “TINOSORB ® S” by the company BASF, and in its water-dispersible form under the INCI name Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, under the trade name TINOSORB® S LiteAqua by the company BASF,
- Ethylhexyl Triazone sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL ® T 150” by BASF,
- Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name “UVASORB ® HEB” by 3V SIGMA,
- symmetrical triazine filters substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in patent US 6,225,467, application WO 2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document “Symetrical Triazine Derivatives” IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004), in particular 2,4,6-tris(bi-phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine marketed under the name TINOSORB® A2B by the company BASF and which is included in patent applications WO 06/035000, WO 06/034982, WO 06/034991, WO 06/035007, WO 2006/034992, WO 2006/034985, these compounds being used advantageously in the form micronized (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 µm) which can be obtained for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in aqueous dispersion form,

Anthranilic compounds:
Menthyl anthranilate sold under the commercial trade name “NEO HELIOPAN ® MA” by Symrise.

Benzalmalonate compounds:
Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name “PARSOL ® SLX” by the company DSM Nutritional Products,

Benzoxazole compounds:
2,4-bis-[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazine sold under the name “Uvasorb ® K2A” by 3V Sigma,
2-[4-(1,3-benzoxazol-2-yl)phenyl]-1,3-benzoxazole, cas number 904-39-2.

Preferential organic filters are chosen from:
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate,
Ethylhexyl Salicylate,
Homosalate,
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,
Octocrylene,
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,
Benzophenone-3,
Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate,
4-Methylbenzylidene camphor,
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,
Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate,
Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol,
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Ethylhexyl Triazone,
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,
2,4,6-tris-(bi-phenyl)-triazine,
2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine
Drometrizole Trisiloxane,
Polysilicone-15,
Bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl)piperazine,
and their mixtures.

Particularly preferred organic filters are chosen from:
Ethylhexyl Salicylate,
Homosalate,
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,
Octocrylene,
Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate,
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,
Ethylhexyl Triazone,
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,
Bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl)piperazine,
Drometrizole Trisiloxane,
2,4,6-tris-(bi-phenyl)-triazine,
and their mixtures.

The inorganic UV filters used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size less than or equal to 0.5 µm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 µm, and even more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 µm. between 0.01 and 0.2 µm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 µm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 µm. They are notably described in Annex VI updated on 09/22/2021 of the European cosmetic products regulation number 1223/2009, but are not limited to this list.

They may in particular be chosen from oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium or mixtures thereof.

Such metal oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are in particular described in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, mention may be made of the products sold by the companies CRODA, TAYCA, and MERCK.

Metal oxide pigments can be coated or uncoated.

Coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts, fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin ), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

The coated pigments are more particularly coated titanium oxides:
- hydrated silica such as the product “MT-100WP” from the company TAYCA,
- silica and iron oxide such as the product “SUNVEIL F®” from the company IKEDA,
- silica and alumina such as the products “MT-500SA®” and “MT-100SA®” from the company TAYCA, “TIOVEIL™ AQ-N” from the company CRODA,
- alumina such as the “TTO-55 (A)®” products from the company ISHIHARA,
- alumina and aluminum stearate such as the products “MT-100TV®, MT-100Z®, MT-01®” from the company TAYCA, the product “Solaveil™ CT100” from the company CRODA and the product “ Eusolex T-AVO®" from the MERCK company,
- silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product “MT-100AQ®” from the company TAYCA,
- alumina and aluminum laurate,
- iron oxide and iron stearate,
- zinc oxide and zinc stearate,
- silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MTY-500SAS®" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT-100SAS®" from the company TAYCA,
- silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone,
- silica and treated with a silicone,
- alumina and treated with a silicone such as the "TTO-55(S)®" products from the company ISHIHARA,
- triethanolamine,
- stearic acid such as the product “TTO-55 (C)®” from the company ISHIHARA,
- sodium hexametaphosphate,
- TiO2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane,
- TiO2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane,
- anatase/rutile TiO2 treated with a polydimethylhydrogensiloxane,
- TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate, alumina sold under the trade name “Solaveil™ CT-200” from CRODA,
- TiO2 coated with aluminum stearate, alumina and silicone sold under the trade name “Solaveil™ CT-12W” from CRODA,
- TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine,
- TiO2 coated with C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminum hydroxide.

We can also cite TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, manganese, and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including those of capric/caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may additionally comprise one or more dispersing agents such as for example a sorbitan ester such as sorbitan isostearate, an ester of fatty acid and polyoxyalkylenated glycerol such as TRI-PPG3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersing agent chosen from fatty acid esters and polyoxyalkylenated glycerol. Mention may be made more particularly of the oily dispersion of TiO2 particles doped with manganese in capric/caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE and SORBITAN ISOSTERATE INCI name: TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 RICINOLEATE (and) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE such as the product sold under the trade name “OPTISOL™ OTP-1” by the company CRODA.

Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company TAYCA under the trade names “MT-500B” or “MT-600B®”, by the company Evonik under the name “DEGUSSA P 25”.

Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
- those marketed under the name “Z-COTE®” by the company BASF;
- those marketed under the name “NanoArc® Zinc Oxide” by the company Nanophase Technologies.

Coated zinc oxide pigments are for example:
- ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogensiloxane;
- CRODA’s “Solaveil™ CZ-100” dispersed in C12-15 alkyl benzonate (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid);
- those marketed under the name and “DAITOPERSION Zn-60VA®” by the company Daito Kasei (dispersions in C9-12 alkane with a dispersing agent);
- those marketed under the name “SPD-Z5®” by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane).

Uncoated cerium oxide pigments can for example be those sold under the name RHODIGARD® W185 by the company Solvay.

Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the equal weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide. zinc coated with alumina, silica and silicone or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin.

According to the invention, titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred.

The UV filters may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight. weight, and better still from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Lipophilic acrylic polymer

The lipophilic acrylic polymer present in the composition according to the invention comprises monomeric units of formulas (A) and (B): in which :
R1, independently of each other, is chosen from alkyl or alkenyl radicals,
And
at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are radicals chosen from stearyl and behenyl radicals, the percentage by weight relating to the sum of all the R1 groups present in the polymer,
And
the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units carrying the R1 group ranges from 1:30 to 1:1,
and the sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight of the total weight of the polymer.

Preferably, R1 consists of alkyl radicals, preferably C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ alkyl radicals, and more preferably stearyl radicals (C ₁₈ ) or behenyl radicals (C ₂₂ ).

Preferably, at least 70% by weight of the R1 groups are stearyl or behenyl radicals, preferably at least 80% by weight, more preferably at least 90% by weight.

According to a preferred embodiment, all the R1 groups are behenyl radicals.

According to another preferred embodiment, all the R1 groups are stearyl radicals.

Preferably, the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units carrying the R1 group ranges from 1:15 to 1:1, preferably ranges from 1:10 to 1:4.

Advantageously, the polymeric units present in the polymer consist of the units (A) and (B) described above.

The polymer has a number average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2,000 to 9,000 g/mol, preferably ranging from 5,000 to 9,000 g/mol. The number average molecular weight can be measured with the gel permeation chromatography method, for example according to the method described in the example below.

Preferably, the polymer has a melting temperature ranging from 40°C to 70°C, and preferably ranging from 45°C to 67°C. The melting temperature is measured by differential scanning calorimetry (or DSC: Differential Scanning Calorimetry), for example according to the method described in the example below.

According to a first embodiment, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are stearyl radicals, then the polymer preferably has a melting point ranging from 40 to 60 ° C, and preferably ranging from 45 to 55°C.

According to a second embodiment, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are behenyl radicals, then the polymer has a melting temperature ranging from 60°C to 70°C, and preferably ranging from 63°C to 67°C.

The polymer used according to the invention can be prepared by polymerization of monomer of the following formula:
CH2=CH-COO-R1,
R1 having the meaning described above, and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate.

The polymerization can be carried out according to known methods, such as solution or emulsion polymerization.

The polymerization is for example described in document US 2007/0264204.

The lipophilic acrylic polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in an active material content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 5%. by weight, and better ranging from 0.2 to 2% by weight.
C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty acid and C ₂ -C ₂₄ polyol esters

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one ester of C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty acid and C ₂ -C ₂₄ polyol, preferably at least one ester of C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ fatty acid and glycerol.

The C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty acid for the polyol fatty acid ester, preferably the glycerol fatty acid ester, may be a saturated or unsaturated acid, for example stearic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid.

By “polyol” is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

The polyol for the fatty acid ester and polyol may be a compound of the alkyl type, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, carrying on the alkyl chain at least two –OH functions, and in particular at least three functions -OH.

The polyols advantageously suitable for the polyol fatty acid ester are those preferably having 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the polyol can for example be chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyglycerin -3, glycerin and their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is chosen from 1,3 propanediol, polyglycerin-3, glycerin, pentylene glycol and their mixtures. Preferably, it is glycerin.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one ester of C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty acid and glycerol.

As examples of C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty acid esters and glycerol, mention may be made of glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, and a mixture of these.

As marketed products, we can cite glyceryl stearate such as the product sold under the name Tegin MO by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name Imwitor 312O by the company Hiils.

Preferably, the C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty acid and glycerol ester is glyceryl stearate.

Advantageously, the ester(s) of C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty acid and C ₂ -C ₂₄ polyol are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Surfactants chosen from fatty chain amino acids and their salts

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chain, preferably C ₈ -C ₂₄ , and their salts.

By “hydrocarbon chain” is meant an organic group consisting mainly of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, in which one or more carbon atoms can be replaced by an atom of oxygen or a nitrogen atom. As examples of C ₈ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chains, mention may be made of C ₈ -C ₃₀ acyl radicals.

As examples of amino acids, we can cite alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine.

More specifically, mention may be made, as salts of amino acids modified by at least one fatty chain, of the following compounds: dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate , disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, cocoyl methyl β-alaninate, lauroyl β-alaninate, lauroyl methyl β-alaninate, myristoyl β-alaninate, potassium lauroyl methyl β-alaninate, sodium cocoyl alaninate, sodium cocoyl methyl β-alaninate and sodium myristoyl methyl β-alaninate palmitoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, sodium caproyl aspartate, disodium lauroyl aspartate, disodium myristoyl aspartate, disodium cocoyl aspartate, disodium caproyl aspartate, potassium lauroyl aspartate, potassium myristoyl aspartate , potassium cocoyl aspartate, potassium caproyl aspartate, dipotassium lauroyl aspartate, dipotassium myristoyl aspartate, dipotassium cocoyl aspartate, dipotassium caproyl aspartate, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the amino acid(s) modified by at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chain and their salts are chosen from the compounds of the following structure: in which :
Z represents a hydrocarbon group comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched;
X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;
n is equal to 0 or 1;
Y is a group chosen from a hydrogen atom, a group -CH ₃ , -CH(CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ C ₆ H ₅ , -CH ₂ C ₂ H ₄ OH, -CH ₂ OH, -CH(OH)CH ₃ , -(CH ₂ ) ₄ NH ₂ , -(CH ₂ ) ₃ NHC(NH)NH ₂ , - CH ₂ C(O)O ^- M ⁺ , -(CH ₂ ) ₂ C(O)OH, -(CH ₂ ) ₂ C(O)O ^- M ⁺ ; And
M is a cation such as sodium, potassium ammonium, triethanolamine.

According to a preferred embodiment, in formula 2:
Z represents a C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl or alkenyl group, linear or branched;
X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
n is equal to 0;
Y is a hydrogen atom, a -(CH ₂ ) ₂ C(O)OH group or a -(CH ₂ ) ₂ C(O)O ^- M ^{+ group} ; And
M is a cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, triethanolamine.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or one of its salts (acyl glutamates).

Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid(s) are chosen from acyl glutamic acids whose acyl group comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example lauroyl glutamic acid, myristoyl glutamic acid, palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, behenoyl glutamic acid, olivoyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid and the salts of these acids, in particular the salts of alkali metals such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg or ammonium salts of said acids.

Preferably, mention may be made, as salts of amino acids modified by at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chain, of glutamate salts, and in particular dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate , sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate.

Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid(s) or one of its salts are chosen from lauroyl glutamic acids, cocoyl glutamic acids, sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate and their mixtures.

More preferably, acyl glutamic acid or one of its salts is sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI name).

Such compounds are marketed under the name AMISOFT by the company AJINOMOTO and in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11, Amisoft CK-11, or even under the name EUMULGIN SG by the company COGNIS.

We can also cite triethanolamine cocoyl glutamate marketed under the name AMISOFT CT 12 by the company AJINOMOTO and triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate marketed under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT-12 by the company AJINOMOTO.

As salts of acyl glutamic acid, mention may also be made of sodium hydrogenated tallowoyl glutamate such as that sold under the reference ACYLGLUTAMATE HS 11 by the company AJINOMOTO and disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate such as that sold under the reference ACYLGLUTAMATE HS-21 by the company AJINOMOTO. AJINOMOTO company.

Mention may also be made of commercial mixtures of surfactants comprising at least one glutamic acid derivative or a salt of said derivative, such as for example the mixture of acyl glutamate salts such as Amisoft LS-22 marketed by AJINOMOTO.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the monosodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid is used (INCI name: sodium stearoyl glutamate) such as that marketed by the company AJINOMOTO under the reference AMISOFT HS 11 PF .

It is also possible to use monoglyceride stearates (INCI name: GLYCERYL STEARATE), for example marketed under the name DIMODAN HP by the company DANISCO, or those marketed under the name TEGIN 90 by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT.

The amino acid(s) modified by at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chain and their salts may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 1% by weight, better still 0.1% to 0.8% by weight, and even better 0.1% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohols

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohol.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohols are linear. Preferably, the fatty alcohols comprise from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The fatty alcohol(s) which can be used in the context of the present invention may in particular be chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol. They are preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.

As cetyl alcohol which is particularly suitable for the invention, one can for example use those sold under the names ECOROL® 16/98 F and ECOROL® 16/98 P by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals, TEGOALKANOL® 16 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, LANETTE ® 16 by the company Cognis, VEGAROL® 1698 by the company VVF, ALKONAT® 1698 P by the company Oxiteno, CETYL ALCOHOL 98% MIN by the company Emery Oleochemicals, GINOL® 16 (98%) by the company Godrej Industries, NACOL® 16-98 by the Sasol company, KALCOL® 6098 by the Kao company and ACILOL® 16 by the Aegis Chemical company.

As a stearyl alcohol particularly suitable for the invention, one can for example use those sold under the names TEGOALKANOL® 18 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, ECOROL® 18/98 F and ECOROL® 18/98 P by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals, LANETTE ® 18 by the company Cognis, KALCOL® 8098 by the company Kao, ACILOL® 18 by the company Aegis Chemical, NACOL® 18-98 by the company Sasol and NAA® 45 by the company Nihon Yushi.

As cetyl stearyl alcohol which is particularly suitable for the invention, one can for example use those sold under the names ECOROL® 68/50 F and ECOROL® 68/50 P by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals, LANETTE® O OR and LANETTE® O OR FLAKES by the company Cognis, ALKONAT® 1618 C50 P by the company Oxiteno, NAFOL® 16-18 EN by the company Sasol, ALCOHOL CETOESTEARILICO 50/50 by the company Industria Quimica Del Centro, CONOL® 30 CK by the company New Japan Chemical , CETYL STEARYL ALCOHOL 50:50 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, KALCOL® 6850 by the company Kao, VEGAROL® 1618 (50:50) by the company VVF and GINOL® 1618 50:50 OR by the company Godrej Industries.

As behenic alcohol particularly suitable for the invention, one can for example use those sold under the name LANETTE 22 by the company BASF.

The composition according to the invention has an alpha-gel structure, that is to say it has a lamellar phase, due to the presence of a surfactant and a saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohol.

Advantageously, the saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohol(s) are present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 3% by weight, and again more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Raincoats

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one wax.

For the purposes of the present invention, wax means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C), deformable or not, with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°. C can go up to 120°C. In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 60°C, and in particular greater than or equal to 70°C.

By lipophilic compound is meant a compound having an acid number and a hydroxyl number less than 150 mg KOH/g.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “MDSC 2920” by the company TA Instruments or the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q100" by the company TA Instruments with the software "TA Universal Analysis".

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to an initial rise in temperature ranging from -20 °C to 100 °C, at a heating rate of 10 °C/minute, then is cooled from 100 °C to 100 °C. -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the wax sample is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

Waxes can be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based and/or fluorinated and be of plant, animal, mineral and/or synthetic origin.

The wax(es) may be present in each composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3%, and better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax of plant origin.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one jojoba ester wax.

The jojoba ester wax may be in an unsaturated form of jojoba esters, which may be the fully hydrogenated jojoba ester of the following formula: in which :
R ¹ is a CH ₃ -(CH ₂ ) _y group, y is equal to 16, 18, 20 or 22.

Jojoba ester wax can be obtained by hydrogenation of jojoba wax ester (jojoba oil) of the following formula: in which x and y are equal to 6, 8, 10 or 12.

Jojoba wax esters are composed of straight-chain monounsaturated fatty alcohols and monounsaturated fatty acids. The only double bond is located in the middle (n-9 position), counting from the terminal methyl group (-CH3) of the respective fatty acid or alcohol chain.

Such wax esters are composed of fatty alcohols and fatty acids with a number of carbon atoms, mainly 20 and 22 carbon atoms. The resulting material includes esters having chain lengths of 38, 40, 42 and 44 carbon atoms, with a small amount of esters of 36 and 46 carbon atoms being present. The typical composition of wax esters is shown below. Ester waxes (X,Y) Chain length % typical (area per GPC) (6, 6) 36 1 (6, 8) (8, 6) 38 8 (6, 10) (8, 8) (10, 6) 40 39 (10, 8) (8, 10) 42 38 (10, 10) 44 13 (12, 10) (10, 12) 46 1

Jojoba wax ester can be derived from the seed of the jojoba plant (Simmondsia chinensis).

As examples of jojoba ester wax, we can cite the product sold under the name Floraesters® 70 by the company International Flora Technologies Ltd, the product sold under the name Jojoba Esters-70 by the company Vantage.

Advantageously, the jojoba ester wax is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one additional hydrocarbon wax in addition to the jojoba ester mentioned above.

Examples include hydrocarbon-based waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax or Chinese insect wax, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, Berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; it is possible in particular to use polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

Mention may be made in particular of beeswax, for example the product sold under the name White Beeswax BR G889 by Koster Keunen, carnauba wax, for example sold under the name Cerauba T1 Bio by the company Baerlocher, helianthus annuus (sunflower) wax marketed under the name Sunflower Wax by the company Koster Keunen, or a mixture of these.

Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax.

If present, the additional hydrocarbon wax is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a mixture of glyceryl stearate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, cetearyl alcohol, jojoba esters, and sunflower seed wax with the name INCI CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) JOJOBA ESTERS (and) GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED CERA (and) POLYGLYCERIN-3, marketed under the name EMULIUM® DOLCEA MB by the company GATTEFOSSE.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises:
- at least one UV filter;
- at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as defined above;
- at least one saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohol;
- at least one ester of C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty acid and glycerol;
- at least one surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C ₈ -C ₂₄ hydrocarbon chain and their salts; And
- at least one wax.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises:
- at least one UV filter;
- at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as defined above;
- at least one saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohol;
- at least one ester of C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty acid and glycerol;
- at least one surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C ₈ -C ₂₄ hydrocarbon chain and their salts; And
- at least one jojoba ester wax.

Preferably, the composition comprises:
- at least one UV filter;
- at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as defined above;
- at least one saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohol;
- at least one ester of C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty acid and glycerol;
- at least one acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or one of its salts (acyl glutamates), the acyl group being in C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ , preferably in C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ; And
- at least one jojoba ester wax.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises:
- at least one UV filter;
- at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as defined above;
- at least one saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohol;
- at least one ester of C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty acid and glycerol;
- at least one surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C ₈ -C ₂₄ hydrocarbon chain and their salts;
- at least one jojoba ester wax; And
- at least one helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax.

Preferably, the composition comprises:
- at least one UV filter;
- at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as defined above;
- at least one saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohol;
- at least one ester of C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty acid and glycerol;
- at least one acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or one of its salts (acyl glutamates), the acyl group being in C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ , preferably in C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ;
- at least one jojoba ester wax; And
- at least one helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a fluid skin care composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
(i) at least one UV filter;
(ii) from 0.05% to 10% by weight of a lipophilic acrylic polymer comprising monomeric units of formulas (A) and (B): in which :
R1, independently of one another, is chosen from alkyl or alkenyl radicals,
And
at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are radicals chosen from stearyl and behenyl radicals, the percentage by weight relating to the sum of all the R1 groups present in the polymer,
And
the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units carrying the R1 group ranges from 1:30 to 1:1,
and the sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight of the total weight of the polymer;
(iii) from 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight of at least one jojoba ester wax of formula 3: where R ¹ is CH ₃ - (CH ₂ ) _y -, y is 16, 18, 20 or 22;
(iv) from 0.5% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohol chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol;
(v) from 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight of at least one C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty acid ester of glycerol chosen from glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, stearate glyceryl, glyceryl palmitate and a mixture thereof; And
(vi) from 0.1% by weight to 0.5% by weight of at least one surfactant chosen from acyl glutamic acids (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) and their salts (acyl glutamates), the acyl group being in C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , even more preferably it is the stearoyl radical.

Oily phase

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase.

The fatty phase can consist of all the fatty substances conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields, it includes in particular the wax(es) defined above and can include at least one oil. The fatty phase further comprises the lipophilic filter(s), as well as the fatty alcohol(s) present in the composition according to the invention.

By oil we mean any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20 – 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fiber in less than an hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^{- 3} to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm of Hg).

By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure less than 10 ^-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa) .

The term “hydrocarbon oil” within the meaning of the present invention is understood to mean any oil comprising predominantly carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen. Thus these oils may in particular contain one or more ester, ether, fluorinated, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.

The term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used according to the invention, the following may be cited in particular:
(i) hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids can have chain lengths varying from C ₄ to C ₂₄ , the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean oil. sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, cancholy, passionflower, muscat rose; or even the triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel;
(ii) synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
(iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parulam, squalane, and their mixtures;
(iv) synthetic esters such as oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' is ≥ 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, benzoate of C12-C15 alcohols such as the product sold under the trade name “Finsolv TN®” or “Witconol TN®” by the company WITCO or “TEGOSOFT TN ®” by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate as the commercial product sold under the name “X -TEND 226®" by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate , isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name “Dub Dis” by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates such as linear C12-C13 di-alkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI® by the Company ENICHEM AUGUSTA INDUSTRIALE as well as linear C14-C15 di-alkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETL® by the same company; acetates;
(v) fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;
(vi) higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;
(vii) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate such as the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC®” by the company Cognis;
and their mixtures.

Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used according to the invention, we will more particularly prefer glyceride triesters and in particular the triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, the synthetic esters and in particular diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols including octyldodecanol. Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils are chosen from diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate and dicaprylyl carbonate.

As volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins). ) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, C8-branched esters C16, iso-hexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

We can also cite the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO2008/155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes different from at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil. we can cite the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008/155059 from the Cognis Company. We can also cite n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97®, as well as their mixtures.

Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt® by the company SHELL, can also be used. According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures.

The non-volatile silicone oils can be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and/or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, silicones phenyls such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity ≤ 8 centistokes (8 10 ^-6 m ² /s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

We can also cite volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils such as:
3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane,
3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, and
3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane.

Fluorinated volatile oils can also be used, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof.

The fatty phase according to the invention may also comprise, mixed with or solubilized in the oil, other fatty substances.

Another fatty substance which may be present in the oily phase may be, for example:
- a fatty acid chosen from fatty acids containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms different from fatty chain amino acids as defined above, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;
- a gum chosen from silicone gums (dimethiconol),
- a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives,
- and their mixtures.

Preferably, the overall fatty phase, including all the lipophilic substances in the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, including the lipophilic filters, represents 5 to 95% by weight, and preferably 10 to 80%. in weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase contains water, and optionally other organic solvents soluble or miscible in water.

An aqueous phase suitable for the invention may comprise, for example, water chosen from natural spring water, such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel, water from Saint Gervais Mont Blanc, or Vichy waters, or floral water.

The water-soluble or miscible solvents suitable for the invention include, in addition to short-chain alcohols as defined above, diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3 -butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol, and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a quantity of glycerin less than 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular form of the invention, the overall aqueous phase, including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase, represents from 5 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 80% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cosmetic active ingredients

The composition of the present invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

As examples of cosmetic active ingredients, we can cite moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates, polyglycerin-3; natural extracts; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters ) and their mixtures; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid and their derivatives; retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; extracts of algae, fungi, plants, yeast and bacteria; enzymes; tightening agents; agents acting on microcirculation, and their mixtures.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one moisturizing agent. Preferably, it is polyglycerin-3.

It is easy for those skilled in the art to adjust the quantity of cosmetic active ingredient depending on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

Additional adjuvants or additives

The composition of the present invention may also include conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example perfumes, chelating agents (for example, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and disodium EDTA), preservatives (for example, chlorphenesin and phenoxy ethanol) and bactericides, in addition surfactant (e.g. polysorbate 80), co-emulsifier, additional thickeners (such as acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, hydroxypropylguar ), pH regulators (e.g. triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide), fillers (e.g. aluminum starch octenylsuccinate and polymethiylsesquioxane) and mixtures thereof.

Those skilled in the art can select the quantity of adjuvants or additional additives so as not to harm the end use of the composition according to the present invention.

Examples

Examples of preparation of lipophilic acrylic polymers according to the invention

Determination of molecular weight by gel permeation chromatography (GPC):

The sample is prepared by making a solution of the polymer at 10 mg/ml in tetrahydrofuran. The sample is placed in an oven at 54°C for 10 minutes then in an oscillating shaker for 60 minutes to aid dissolution. After visual inspection, the sample appears completely dissolved in the solvent.

The prepared sample was analyzed using two 300 x 7.5 mm polypore columns (manufactured by Agilent Technologies), a Waters 2695 chromatographic system, tetrahydrofuran mobile phase and refractive index detection. The sample was filtered using a water filter. Nylon 0.45 µm before being injected into the liquid chromatograph. The standards used for calibration are the Easi Vial narrow polystyrene (PS) standards from Agilent Technologies.

Polystyrene standards ranging from 2,520,000 to 162 Daltons were used for calibration.

The system is equipped with a PSS SECcurity 1260 RI detector. The polystyrene calibration curve was used to determine the average molecular weight. The recording of the diagrams and the determination of the different molecular weights was done by the Win GPC Unichrom 81 program.

Determination of the melting point by differential scanning calorimetry (or DSC):

This method describes the general procedure for determining the melting point of polymers by differential scanning calorimetry. This method is based on ASTM E791 and ASTM D 34182 standards and DSC calibration is performed according to ASTM E 9672.

Example of preparation of polymer 1:

Behenyl acrylate/2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer (Polymer 1) :

In a 4-neck flask equipped with a side blade stirrer, an internal thermometer, two funnels, a reflux condenser, and an extension for two more necks, 175 g behenyl acrylate, 25 g acrylate of 2 -hydroxyethyl and 0.4 g of 2,2'-azobis(2-methylbutyronitrile (Akzo Nobel) were added for 60 minutes at 80 °C in 40 g of isopropanol with stirring after removing oxygen from the system at using a nitrogen purge for 20 minutes. The mixture was stirred at 80°C for 3 hours. Then the solvent was removed by vacuum distillation, then 1 g of dilauryl peroxide was added and the reaction was continued for 60 minutes at 110°C. The step was repeated. The mixture was then cooled to 90°C and a jet of deionized water was added and then stirred. The water was removed by vacuum distillation.

Molecular weight: Mn = 7300 g/mol, Mw = 21000, Mw/Mn = 2.8;

Melting point: 65°C.

Example of preparation of polymer 2 :

Stearyl acrylate/2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer (Polymer 2):

In a 4-neck flask equipped with a side blade stirrer, an internal thermometer, two funnels, a reflux condenser, and an extension for two more necks, 155 g behenyl acrylate, 45 g acrylate of 2 -hydroxyethyl and 0.4 g of 2,2'-azobis(2-methylbutyronitrile (Akzo Nobel) were added for 90 minutes at 80 °C in 50 g of isopropanol with stirring after removing oxygen from the system at using a nitrogen purge for 20 minutes. The mixture was stirred at 80°C for 3 hours. Then the solvent was removed by vacuum distillation, then 1 g of dilauryl peroxide was added and the reaction was continued for 60 minutes at 125°C. The step was repeated. The mixture was then cooled to 90°C and a jet of deionized water was added and then stirred. The water was removed by vacuum distillation.

Molecular weight: Mn = 7500 g/mol, Mw = 19000, Mw/Mn = 2.6;

Melting point: 49°C.

Examples of wording

The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. In these examples, the quantities of the composition ingredients are given in % by weight of raw materials or active materials relative to the total weight of the composition.

Method of preparation s emulsions

The aqueous phase and the fatty phase are heated separately to 90°C.

Once the aqueous phase is completely dissolved, it is stirred at 800 rpm for 10 minutes for good homogenization.

Once the fatty phase is completely clear, the emulsion is made by adding the fatty phase to the aqueous phase. When the fatty phase is added, the mixture is stirred at around 1300 rpm. Once all the fatty phase is added, increase agitation to 2300-2500 rpm for 10 minutes.

Filtering efficiency evaluation protocol

In-vitro: The sun protection factor (SPF) is determined according to the “in vitro” method described by B. L. Diffey in J. Soc. Cosmetic. Chem. 40, 127-133, (1989). The measurements were carried out using a UV-1000S spectrophotometer from the company Labsphère.

The in vitro UVA protection factor (PPD) of a sun protection product against UVA radiation calculated mathematically by in vitro spectral modeling according to the ISO 24443:2012 (Fr) protocol.

Each composition is applied to six rough PMMA plates, in the form of a homogeneous and regular deposit at a rate of 1 mg/cm2. The spreading of each composition is done using an automated robot which makes regular and uniform movements on three plates called HD6 (molded granular plates) and three plates called SB6 (sanded granular plates). The plate is weighed before and after spreading. Once the six plates are spread out, we rest them in Thermo-Masters in the dark at 25°C for 30 minutes. We carry out the measurements using the UV-1000S spectrophotometer from the company Labsphère. We make 9 measurements per plate, then we analyze the measurements using an Excel spreadsheet which provides us with the SPF and PPD values of the measured composition.

Viscosity assessment protocol

Viscosity is assessed using a Broockfield viscometer. We use mobile 2, due to the liquid texture of the formula. We calibrate the viscometer, then introduce the mobile into the product and let it run for 10 minutes. We take the measurement at 10 seconds and 10 minutes.

Protocol for evaluating the stability of the compositions of the invention

Each composition is placed in an oven at 55°C for one week in 30 ml Cleopatra jars. After a week, we take out the compositions and analyze their appearance macroscopically.

Example 1 – Compositions 1 and 2

The following compositions are prepared (quantities of active ingredients). Composition 1 (invention) 2 (comparative) AQUA QSP 100 QSP 100 DISODIUM EDTA 0.10 0.10 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.40 0.40 PROPANEDIOL 3.00 3.00 CITRIC ACID 0.15 0.15 GLYCERIN 7.00 7.00 ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 3.00 3.00 OCTOCRYLENE 7.00 7.00 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5.00 5.00 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE 3.00 3.00 HOMOSALATE 7.00 7.00 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.30 0.30 DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0.25 0.25 C12-22 ALKYLACRYLATE/HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER
(Polymer 1) 1.50 1.50 TOCOPHEROL 1.00 1.00 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 0.61 0.61 GLYCERYL STEARATE 0.30 - JOJOBA ESTERS 0.30 0.30 SUNFLOWER SEED WAX 0.12 0.12 SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0.12 0.12

Results obtained

The results of the sensory analysis and SPF evaluation are as follows. Composition 1
(invention) 2
(comparative) SPF 45.6 + 2.2 34.4 + 0.8 PPD 23.7 + 0.9 18.8 + 0.3 Stability (1 week at 55°C) stable unstable

Composition 1, which comprises the surfactant system according to the invention, has a higher level of sun protection than composition 2 not comprising all of the ingredients of the surfactant system according to the invention. Furthermore, composition 1 is stable, which is not the case for composition 2.

Example 2 – Composition s 3 and 4

The following compositions are prepared (quantities of raw materials). Composition 3 (invention) 4 (comparative) AQUA QSP 100 QSP 100 DISODIUM EDTA 0.10 0.10 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.40 0.40 PROPANEDIOL 3.00 3.00 CITRIC ACID 0.20 0.15 GLYCERIN 7.00 7.00 ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 3.00 3.00 OCTOCRYLENE 7.00 7.00 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5.00 5.00 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE 3.00 3.00 HOMOSALATE 7.00 7.00 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.30 0.30 DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE
(AMISOFT HS 21P from AJINOMOTO) 0.30 0.25 C12-22 ALKYLACRYLATE/HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER
(TEGO SP SENSTAR from EVONIK)
(Polymer 1) 1.50 1.50 TOCOPHEROL 1.00 1.00 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) JOJOBA ESTERS (and) GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED CERA (and) POLYGLYCERIN-3
(EMULIUM DOLCEA MB from GATTEFOSSE) 1.5 - POLYGLYCERYL-6 DISTEARATE (and) JOJOBA ESTERS (and) CETYL ALCOHOL (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 BEESWAX
(EMULIUM MELLIFERA MB from GATTEFOSSE) - 1.5

Results obtained

The stability results of the compositions are as follows. Composition 3 (invention) 4 (comparative) SPF 45.6 + 2.2 31.0 + 0.5 PPD 23.7 + 0.9 17.0 + 0.3 Stability (1 week at 55°C) stable unstable

Composition 3, which comprises the surfactant system according to the invention, has a higher level of sun protection than composition 4 comprising a surfactant system different from that of the invention. Furthermore, composition 3 is stable, which is not the case for composition 4.

Example 3 - Composition 5 has 7

The following compositions are prepared (quantities of raw materials). Composition 5 (invention) 6 (comparative) 7 (comparative) AQUA QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 DISODIUM EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.1 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.40 0.40 0.40 PROPANEDIOL 3.00 3.00 3.00 CITRIC ACID 0.20 0.15 0.15 GLYCERIN 7.00 7.00 7.00 ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 3.00 3.00 3.00 OCTOCRYLENE 7.00 7.00 7.00 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5.00 5.00 5.00 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE 3.00 3.00 3.00 HOMOSALATE 7.00 7.00 7.00 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.30 0.30 0.30 DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE
(AMISOFT HS 21P from AJINOMOTO) 0.30 0.30 0.30 TOCOPHEROL 1.00 1.00 1.00 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) JOJOBA ESTERS (and) GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED CERA (and) POLYGLYCERIN-3
(EMULIUM DOLCEA MB from GATTEFOSSE) 1.50 3.00 - C12-22 ALKYLACRYLATE/HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER
(TEGO SP SENSTAR from EVONIK)
(Polymer 1) 1.50 - 3.00

Results obtained

The results of the sensory analysis are as follows. Composition 5 (invention) 6 (comparative) 7 (comparative) SPF 45.6 + 2.2 28.1 + 0.8 Not measured PPD 23.7 + 0.9 16.2 + 0.4 Not measured Stability (1 week at 55°C) stable unstable Impossible emulsion

Composition 5, which comprises the surfactant system and the lipophilic acrylate polymer according to the invention, has a higher level of sun protection than composition 6 which does not comprise the lipophilic acrylate polymer according to the invention. Furthermore, composition 5 is stable, which is not the case for composition 6. With regard to composition 7 which does not comprise the surfactant system according to the invention, the emulsion being impossible to produce, it cannot be evaluated, particularly in terms of sun protection and stability.

Example 4 - Composition s 8 and 9

The following compositions are prepared (quantities of raw materials). Composition 8 (invention) 9 (comparative) AQUA QSP 100 QSP 100 DISODIUM EDTA 0.10 0.10 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.40 0.40 PROPANEDIOL 3.00 3.00 CITRIC ACID 0.20 0.20 GLYCERIN 7.00 7.00 ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 3.00 3.00 OCTOCRYLENE 7.00 7.00 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5.00 5.00 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE 3.00 3.00 HOMOSALATE 7.00 7.00 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.30 0.30 DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE
(AMISOFT HS 21P from AJINOMOTO) 0.30 0.25 C12-22 ALKYLACRYLATE/HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER
(TEGO SP SENSTAR from EVONIK)
(Polymer 1) 1.50 - TOCOPHEROL 1.00 1.00 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) JOJOBA ESTERS (and) GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED CERA (and) POLYGLYCERIN-3
(EMULIUM DOLCEA MB from GATTEFOSSE) 1.5 - GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE
(ARLACEL 165-FP-PA-(RB) from CRODA) - 3.00

Results obtained

The results of the sensory analysis are as follows. Composition 8 (invention) 9 (comparative) SPF 45.6 + 2.2 22.6 + 2.0 PPD 23.7 + 0.9 13.3 + 0.9 Stability (1 week at 55°C) stable Slightly unstable

Composition 8, which comprises the surfactant system and the lipophilic acrylate polymer in accordance with the invention, has a level of sun protection and greater stability than composition 9 which is stabilized by another surfactant system.

Claims (22)

Composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising:
- at least one UV filter;
- at least one polymer comprising monomeric units of formulas (A) and (B):

in which :
R1, independently of each other, is chosen from alkyl or alkenyl radicals,
And
at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are radicals chosen from stearyl and behenyl radicals, the percentage by weight relating to the sum of all the R1 groups present in the polymer,
And
the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units carrying the R1 group ranges from 1:30 to 1:1;
and the sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight of the total weight of the polymer,
the polymer having a number average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2,000 to 9,000 g/mol;
- at least one ester of C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty acid and C ₂ -C ₂₄ polyol; And
- at least one surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chain and their salts. Composition according to claim 1 in which the UV filter(s) are chosen from water-soluble organic UV filters, fat-soluble organic UV filters, insoluble organic UV filters, inorganic UV filters, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2 in which the UV filter(s) are chosen from fat-soluble organic UV filters; preferably chosen from dibenzoylmethane compounds, salicylic compounds, β, β-diphenylacrylate compounds, benzophenone compounds, phenyl benzotriazole compounds, triazine compounds and mixtures thereof; and more preferably from homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, drometrizole trisiloxane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)- n-hexyl benzoate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 in which the quantity of the UV filter(s) ranges from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight. % by weight, and better still from 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 in which in the lipophilic acrylic polymer R1 consists of an alkyl radical, preferably a C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ alkyl radical, and more preferably a behenyl or stearyl radical. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 in which in the lipophilic acrylic polymer at least 70% by weight of the R1 groups are behenyl or stearyl radicals, preferably at least 80% by weight, more preferably at least 90% by weight. weight. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 in which in the lipophilic acrylic polymer all the R1 groups are stearyl or behenyl radicals. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 in which in the lipophilic acrylic polymer the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units carrying the R1 group ranges from 1:15 to 1:1, preferably goes from 1:10 to 1:4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 in which the lipophilic acrylic polymer has a number average molecular weight Mn ranging from 5,000 to 9,000 g/mol. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9 in which the lipophilic acrylic polymer has a melting temperature ranging from 40°C to 70°C, and preferably ranging from 45°C to 67°C. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10 in which in the lipophilic acrylic polymer at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are stearyl radicals, and said polymer has a melting point ranging from 40 to 60 °C, and preferably ranging from 45 to 55°C. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11 in which in the lipophilic acrylic polymer at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are behenyl radicals, and said polymer has a melting point ranging from 60°C to 70°C, and preferably ranging from 63°C to 67°C. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 in which the lipophilic acrylic polymer(s) are present in an active material content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight. weight, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 in which the ester(s) of C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty acid and C ₂ -C ₂₄ polyol are chosen from esters of fatty acid and glycerol, of preferably they are chosen from glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, and a mixture of these. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 in which the fatty acid ester(s) and C ₂ -C ₂₄ polyol are present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 in which the amino acid(s) modified by at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chain and their salts are chosen from the compounds of the following structure:

Z represents a C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl or alkenyl group, linear or branched;
X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
n is equal to 0 or 1;
Y is a hydrogen atom, a -(CH ₂ ) ₂ C(O)OH group or a -(CH ₂ ) ₂ C(O)O ^- M ^{+ group} ; And
M is a cation such as sodium, potassium ammonium, triethanolamine. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16 in which the amino acid(s) modified by at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chain and their salts are present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight , preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 0.8% by weight, and even better from 0.1% to 1% by weight. 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 17 comprising at least one fatty alcohol, preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, alcohol tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, preferably behenic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol. Composition according to claim 18 in which the fatty alcohol(s) are present in quantities ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably ranging from 0. 5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19 comprising at least one wax, in particular at least one jojoba ester wax, preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably 0 .2% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to claim 20 further comprising at least one helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and/or makeup of a keratin material comprising the application to the surface of said keratin material of at least one composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 21.