FR3141061A1 - Composition comprising a lipophilic organic filter, a hydrophilic organic filter, spherical particles of porous silica, spherical particles of cellulose, and an N-acylated amino acid powder - Google Patents

Abstract

Title: Composition comprising a lipophilic organic filter, a hydrophilic organic filter, spherical particles of porous silica, spherical particles of cellulose, and an N-acylated amino acid powder The present invention therefore relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising: a) at least one lipophilic organic UV filter; b) at least one hydrophilic organic UV filter; c) at least one filler chosen from spherical porous silica particles, particularly spherical porous silica microparticles; d) at least one filler chosen from spherical cellulose particles; And e) at least one filler chosen from N-acylated amino acid powders; the total quantity of fillers chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, spherical particles of cellulose, and N-acylated amino acid powders being between 1% and 4% by weight, preferably between 2% and 4% by weight. weight of the total weight of the composition, and the mass ratio (spherical cellulose particles + N-acylated amino acid powders) / (spherical porous silica particles) being between 0.25 and 1.

Description

Composition comprising a lipophilic organic filter, a hydrophilic organic filter, spherical porous silica particles, spherical cellulose particles, and an N-acylated amino acid powder

The present invention relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one lipophilic organic UV filter, at least one hydrophilic organic UV filter, at least three fillers distinct from each other, the first of which is chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, in particular spherical microparticles of porous silica, the second is chosen from spherical particles of cellulose, and the third is chosen from N-acylated amino acid powders, the total amount of fillers chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, spherical particles of cellulose, and N-acylated amino acid powders being between 1% and 4% by weight, preferably between 2% and 4% by weight of the total weight of the composition, and the mass ratio (spherical particles of cellulose + powders of N-acylated amino acid) / (spherical particles of porous silica) being between 0.25 and 1.

To date, a wide variety of photoprotective compositions are already known to protect keratin materials, and more particularly the skin, against the harmful effects induced by UVA and/or UVB radiation. For the most part, they contain a combination of several organic or inorganic UV filters, carried in an oily phase and/or in an aqueous phase, as an anti-UV active agent and are generally offered in a galenic form of the emulsion or gel type.

It is also known that high filter rates are necessary to achieve high levels of filtering efficiency.

However, high levels of UV filters do not lend themselves to easy development of compositions with a stabilised and pleasant texture.

Thus, formulations with high filtering power can present uncomfortable or even unpleasant sensory aspects masking the freshness and comfort of the formulas. In particular, the difficulty for photoprotective formulations with a high protection index is often to limit, or even avoid a significant feeling of oiliness and stickiness, and therefore a lack of lightness of the textures obtained, but also a white appearance on application and therefore not invisible on the skin.

Furthermore, the introduction of high-content UV filters can cause destabilization problems. This instability can sometimes even cause a phase shift of the emulsion and/or a loss of viscosity of the composition, making the formulation ineffective or even unusable.

To overcome the above-mentioned undesirable effects, and in particular to obtain a fresh effect on application and an invisible effect on the skin, aqueous galenics have already been considered. However, these aqueous compositions containing UV filters can have the disadvantage of being sticky and therefore uncomfortable, but also very fluid.

It has also been proposed to structure an aqueous gel containing filters by polymers. However, this solution is not satisfactory because the structuring polymers generally chosen are not always very resistant to electrolytes and can also degrade the sensory properties of the compositions in terms of stickiness.

To overcome the above-mentioned undesirable effects, the use of aqueous compositions containing UV filters in combination with other specific compounds has already been considered.

Thus, the joint use of clay-type mineral thickeners has been proposed to stabilize the compositions and possibly reduce the stickiness of photoprotective compositions. However, clays can whiten the compositions, which then lose their transparency properties.

As a result, it remains difficult to reconcile, in the same photoprotective composition, opposing technical performances, such as a high level of UV protection which most often implies a greasy and sticky finish on the skin, and a pleasant sensory experience materialized in particular by a sensation of freshness.

There is still a need for a photoprotective composition with a high level of UV protection and which is advantageously transparent on the skin.

In particular, there remains a need for a photoprotective composition with a high level of UV protection, with pleasant sensory properties and which is advantageously refreshing, and preferably transparent on the skin.

This need for such a photoprotective composition is all the stronger as the daily photoprotection market is booming. More and more hybrid products providing skin care and protection with SPF 15-20 are being launched, but the challenge remains to have higher SPF values, for example greater than or equal to 30, or even greater than or equal to 50, with a pleasant sensoriality for daily application.

We are therefore looking to have a product with a high SPF while keeping the sensory codes of skin care: Appearance, texture, consistency, sensory.

In other words, the aim of the invention is to develop a product with an interesting sensory aspect, in particular with a melting sensory aspect and a non-greasy and non-sticky finish, allowing high daily photoprotection.

There is also a need for a photoprotective composition with a high level of UV protection and which is perfectly stable, i.e. not subject to demixing phenomena.

It has already been disclosed in patent EP 2 266 531 B1 to introduce into a composition comprising UV filters a superabsorbent polymer in order to reduce stickiness. However, the sensory of the compositions thus obtained could be improved for daily use.

The present invention aims precisely to meet these needs.

The present invention therefore relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:
a) at least one lipophilic organic UV filter;
b) at least one hydrophilic organic UV filter;
(c) at least one filler selected from spherical particles of porous silica, in particular spherical microparticles of porous silica;
(d) at least one filler selected from spherical cellulose particles; and
e) at least one filler selected from N-acylated amino acid powders;
the total amount of fillers chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, spherical particles of cellulose, and N-acylated amino acid powders being between 1% and 4% by weight, preferably between 2% and 4% by weight of the total weight of the composition, and
the mass ratio (spherical cellulose particles + N-acylated amino acid powders) / (spherical porous silica particles) being between 0.25 and 1.

Against all expectations, the inventors have found that the use, in a photoprotective composition, of one or more hydrophilic organic UV filters in combination with one or more lipophilic organic UV filters, of at least three fillers distinct from each other, the first of which is chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, in particular spherical microparticles of porous silica, the second is chosen from spherical particles of cellulose, and the third is chosen from N-acylated amino acid powders, the total amount of fillers chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, spherical particles of cellulose, and N-acylated amino acid powders being between 1% and 4% by weight, and the mass ratio (spherical particles of cellulose + N-acylated amino acid powders) / (spherical particles of porous silica) being between 0.25 and 1, allows to access a galenic formulation with a strong photoprotective power, with good cosmetic properties, in particular with a non-greasy, non-sticky and non-shiny finish, and which is nevertheless stabilized over time.

Advantageously, the implementation of this composition provides access to a galenic formulation which is stabilized, presenting a pleasant sensoriality for daily use and a strong anti-UV protective power.

Thus, this photoprotective composition advantageously makes it possible to combine properties which are generally antagonistic to each other.

The invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to the use of a composition as defined above, for the care of keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and/or the face.

The invention also relates, according to yet another of its aspects, to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and/or face, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined above.

It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and/or improving the color and/or uniformity of the complexion comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one composition as defined above.

It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and/or treating the signs of aging of a keratin material comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one composition as defined above.

The composition according to the invention has good stability. This stability can be evaluated macroscopically and/or microscopically, after storage for one week, one month, or two months, at room temperature (25°C), at 4°C, at 45°C, or at 55°C. A stable composition generally retains its pleasantness and its sensory signature upon application over time. More precisely, the stability of a composition can be evaluated qualitatively, for example by the absence of phase shift phenomena or the appearance of crystals, or quantitatively by monitoring the evolution of parameters such as viscosity or pH.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term " SPF " (Sun Protection Factor) means: the sun protection factor, which measures the level of protection against UVB. The SPF value corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time required to obtain sunburn with an antisun composition and that without product. More precisely, the term " SPF " is defined in the article A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum , J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May/June 1989).

The SPF (Sun Protection Factor) assessment can be carried out in vitro using the Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material on which the sunscreen composition is applied. For this protocol, polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) plates have proven to be ideal.

The evaluation of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of the compositions can also be carried out in-vivo according to the ISO/EN 24444 protocol “Cosmetics-Sun protection test methods-In-vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) (2010)”.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term " PPD " (Persistent Pigment Darkening in English) means: the index characterizing protection against UVA. In particular, the " PPD " measures the color of the skin observed 2 to 4 hours after exposure to UVA. This method has been adopted since 1996 by the Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) as an official test procedure for the UVA labeling of products and is frequently used by testing laboratories in Europe and the United States; (Japan Cosmetic Industry Association Technical Bulletin. Measurement Standards for UVA protection efficacy. Issued November 21, 1995 and effective of January 1, 1996).

Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent upon reading the detailed description which follows.

The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium. Here, the term “physiologically acceptable medium” means a medium compatible with keratin materials.

In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is understood to mean in particular the skin, the scalp, the keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the hair, and the body hairs, the nails, the mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin and the mucous membranes (body, face, eye contour, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from … to …”.

Furthermore, the expressions “at least one” and “at least” used in this description are respectively equivalent to the expressions “one or more” and “greater than or equal”.

By “prevent” or “prevention”, according to the invention, is meant the fact of reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of aging of a keratin material.

By “organic UVA filter” is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm; said molecule can also additionally absorb UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

By “organic UVB filter” we mean any organic chemical molecule capable of exclusively absorbing UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion.

By "emulsion" is meant any macroscopically homogeneous composition that is kinetically stable comprising at least two phases that are immiscible with each other; one being the continuous dispersing phase and the other being dispersed in said continuous phase in the form of droplets. The two phases are generally kinetically stabilized by at least one emulsifying system generally comprising at least one emulsifying surfactant.

A distinction is made between oil-in-water emulsions called "direct" consisting of a continuous aqueous dispersing phase and a discontinuous oily dispersed phase and water-in-oil emulsions called inverse consisting of a continuous oily dispersing phase and a discontinuous aqueous dispersed phase. There are also multiple emulsions such as water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil emulsions.

Detailed description of the invention UV filters

The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one lipophilic organic UV filter and at least one hydrophilic organic UV filter.

Lipophilic organic UV filters

By "lipophilic organic filter" we mean any organic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.

The lipophilic organic filters are in particular chosen from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds in particular those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in applications US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93/04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes compounds as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1133980 and EP133981 and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the lipophilic organic filter(s) are chosen from salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; and mixtures thereof.

Examples of lipophilic organic photoprotective agents include those designated below by their INCI name and/or chemical name.

Cinnamic compounds:
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL® MCX by the company DSM Nutritional Products;
Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 ® by the company Symrise,

Dibenzoylmethane compounds:
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL® 1789 by the company DSM Nutritional Products,

Salicylic compounds:
Homosalate sold under the name “Parsol® HMS” by the company DSM Nutritional Products,
Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name “NEO HELIOPAN® OS” by the company Symrise,

β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds:
Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL® N 539 T” by the company BASF,

Benzophenone compounds:
Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name “UVINUL® M 40” by the company BASF,
Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate sold under the trade name “UVINUL® A Plus” or in mixture with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate under the trade name “UVINUL® A Plus B” by the company BASF,

Benzylidene camphor compounds:
4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name “EUSOLEX® 6300” by the company MERCK,

Phenyl benzotriazole compounds:
Drometrizole Trisiloxane manufactured under the name “MEXORYL® XL” by the company NOVEAL,

Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds:
Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, in particular in solid form as the product sold under the trade name “MIXXIM BB/100 ®” by the company FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL,

Triazine compounds:
- 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-1,2,4-triazine), INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl triazine,
- Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name “TINOSORB® S” by the company BASF,
- Ethylhexyl Triazone sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL® T 150” by the company BASF,
- Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name “UVASORB® HEB” by the company 3V SIGMA,
- symmetrical triazine filters substituted by naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in patent US6,225,467, application WO2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document “Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives” IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004),

Anthranilic compounds:
Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name “NEO HELIOPAN® MA” by the company Symrise,

Benzalmalonate compounds:
Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name “PARSOL SLX ®” by the company HOFFMANN LA ROCHE.

Hydrophilic organic UV filters

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrophilic organic UV filter” means a water-soluble organic UV filter or a water-dispersible organic UV filter.

By "water-soluble organic filter" is meant any organic filter capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase, or of being dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

The term "water-dispersible organic filter" means any organic filter capable of forming in a liquid aqueous phase a homogeneous suspension of particles with a volume average size of less than 100 microns. The volume average size is determined by laser diffraction granulometry.

Among the water-soluble organic UVA filters that can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of benzene 1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) and its various salts, described in particular in patent applications FR-A-2528420 and FR-A-2639347. Mention may in particular be made of benzene 1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) such as that manufactured under the name “MEXORYL® SX” by the company NOVEAL,

These filters correspond to the following general formula (I):
[Chem 1]

in which, F denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or a radical NH(R ₁ ) ₃ ⁺ in which the radicals R ₁ , which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical, or a group Mn+, Mn+ denoting a polyvalent metal cation in which n is equal to 2 or 3 or 4, Mn+ preferably denoting a metal cation chosen from Ca ²⁺ , Zn ²⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ba ²⁺ , Al ³⁺ and Zr ⁴⁺ . It is understood that the compounds of formula (I) above can give rise to the "cis-trans" isomer around one or more double bond(s) and that all the isomers fall within the scope of the present invention.

Among the water-soluble organic UVA filters which can be used according to the present invention, mention may also be made of compounds comprising at least two benzoazolyl groups with sulfonic groups such as those described in patent application EP-A-0669323.

They are described and prepared according to the syntheses indicated in US patent 2,463,264 as well as in patent application EP-A-0669323.

The compounds comprising at least two benzoazolyl groups in accordance with the invention correspond to the following general formula (II):
[Chem 2]
(II)
in which,
- Z represents an organic residue of valence (l + n) comprising one or more double bonds placed in such a way that it completes the double bond system of at least two benzoazolyl groups as defined inside the brackets to form a fully conjugated set;
- X' denotes S, O or NR ⁶ ;
- R ¹ denotes a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ to C ₁₈ alkyl, a C ₁ to C ₄ alkoxy, a C ₅ to C ₁₅ aryl, a C ₂ to C ₁₈ acyloxy, an SO ₃ Y or COOY group;
- the radicals R ² , R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ , identical or different, denote a nitro group or a radical R ¹ ;
- R ⁶ denotes a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl or a C ₁ to C ₄ hydroxyalkyl;
- Y denotes a hydrogen atom, Li, Na, K, NH ₄ , 1/2Ca, 1/2Mg, 1/3Al or a cation resulting from the neutralization of a free acid group by an organic nitrogen base;
- m is 0 or 1;
- n is a number from 2 to 6;
- l is a number from 1 to 4;
- provided that l + n does not exceed the value 6.

Among these compounds, 1,4-bis-benzimidazolyl-phenylen-3,3',5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid (INCI name: Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate) or one of its salts with the following structure sold in particular under the name "NEO HELIOPAN® AP" by the company Symrise will be particularly preferred:
[Chem 3]

Preferably, the water-soluble filter capable of absorbing UVA is benzene 1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) such as that manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SX" by NOVEAL.

The water-soluble organic UVB filters that can be used according to the present invention are notably chosen from water-soluble cinnamic derivatives such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid; water-soluble benzylidene camphor compounds; water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds; water-soluble p-aminobenzoic compounds (PABA); water-soluble salicylic compounds, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of water-soluble organic UVB filters include phenyl benzimidazole compounds, such as 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid) sold in particular under the trade name “EUSOLEX 232 ^® ” by MERCK.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one mixed water-soluble filter capable of absorbing UVA and UVB rays.

When the water-soluble UV filter is of the sulfonic acid type, it is preferably associated with an organic base, such as an alkanolamine.

By "alkanolamine" is meant a _C2 - _C10 compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function and at least one alcohol function, generally primary. As suitable alkanolamine, mention may be made of 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol (INCI name: TROMETHAMINE) and triethanolamine.

Among the water-dispersible organic filters, the following filters can be mentioned.

Benzophenone compounds:
1,1'-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone (CAS 919803-06-8) as described in application WO2007/071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (volume average size of 0.02 to 2 µm) which can be obtained for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion,

Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds:
Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a mean particle size by volume which varies from 0.01 to 5 μm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 μm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant of structure C _n H _2n+1 O(C ₆ H ₁₀ O ₅ ) _x H in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the mean degree of polymerization of the unit (C ₆ H ₁₀ O ₅ ) and varies from 1.4 to 1.6 such as the aqueous dispersions described in patent GB-A-2 303 549, in particular the product sold under the trade name "TINOSORB® M" by the company BASF, or
in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume average particle size which varies from 0.02 to 2 μm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 μm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 μm, in the presence of at least one mono-(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl-ester of polyglycerol having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of at least 5 such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO2009/063392, in particular the product marketed under the name Tinosorb WPGL by the company BASF,

Triazine compounds:
- Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine in its water-dispersible form with the INCI name Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, under the trade name TINOSORB® S LiteAqua by the company BASF,
- symmetrical triazine filters substituted by naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 µm) obtainable for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119, and in particular in aqueous dispersion form, in particular 2,4,6-tris(bi-phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine marketed under the name TINOSORB® A2B by the company BASF and which is included in patent applications WO06/035000, WO06/034982, WO06/034991, WO06/035007, WO2006/034992, WO2006/034985,

Benzoxazole compounds:
2-[4-(1,3-benzoxazol-2-yl)phenyl]-1,3-benzoxazole, CAS number 904-39-2.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the quantity of water-dispersible organic UV filters is less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of water-dispersible organic UV filters.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “free from water-dispersible organic UV filters” means an amount of water-dispersible organic UV filters of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the mass ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV filters and the lipophilic organic UV filters (mass quantity of hydrophilic organic UV filters divided by mass quantity of lipophilic organic UV filters) is greater than 0.3.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the mass ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV filters and the lipophilic organic UV filters is between 0.35 and 1.

Inorganic UV filters

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions comprise at least one inorganic UV filter.

The inorganic UV filters that can be used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 µm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 µm, and even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 µm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 µm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 µm. They are notably described in Annex VI updated on 09/22/2021 of the European Cosmetic Products Regulation number 1223/2009, but are not limited to this list.

They can be chosen in particular from titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium oxides or their mixtures.

Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, mention may be made of the products sold by the companies CRODA, TAYCA, and MERCK.

Metal oxide pigments can be coated or uncoated.

Coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminium), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

Coated pigments are more particularly coated titanium oxides:
- hydrated silica such as the product “MT-100WP” from the company TAYCA,
- silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F®" from the company IKEDA,
- silica and alumina such as the products "MT-500SA®" and "MT-100SA®" from the company TAYCA, "TIOVEIL™ AQ-N" from the company CRODA,
- alumina such as the products "TTO-55 (A)®" from the company ISHIHARA,
- alumina and aluminum stearate such as the products "MT-100TV®, MT-100Z®, MT-01®" from the company TAYCA, the product "Solaveil™ CT100" from the company CRODA and the product "Eusolex T-AVO®" from the company MERCK,
- silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100AQ®" from the company TAYCA,
- alumina and aluminum laurate,
- iron oxide and iron stearate,
- zinc oxide and zinc stearate,
- silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MTY-500SAS®" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT-100SAS®" from the company TAYCA,
- silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with silicone,
- silica and treated with silicone,
- alumina and treated with silicone such as the products "TTO-55(S)®" from the company ISHIHARA,
- triethanolamine,
- stearic acid such as the product "TTO-55 (C)®" from the company ISHIHARA,
- sodium hexametaphosphate,
- TiO2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane,
- TiO2 treated with polydimethylsiloxane,
- anatase/rutile TiO2 treated with polydimethylhydrogensiloxane,
- TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate, alumina sold under the trade name “Solaveil™ CT-200” from CRODA,
- TiO2 coated with aluminum stearate, alumina and silicone sold under the trade name “Solaveil™ CT-12W” from CRODA,
- TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine,
- TiO2 coated with C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminum hydroxide.

Mention may also be made of TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, manganese and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including those of capric/caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may additionally comprise one or more dispersing agents such as, for example, a sorbitan ester such as sorbitan isostearate, a polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol ester such as TRI-PPG3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersing agent chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol esters. More particularly, mention may be made of the oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO2 particles in capric/caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE and SORBITAN ISOSTERATE with the INCI name: TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 RICINOLEATE (and) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE or the product sold under the trade name “OPTISOL™ OTP-1” by the company CRODA.

Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company TAYCA under the trade names "MT-500B" or "MT-600B®", by the company Evonik under the name "DEGUSSA P 25".

Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
- those marketed under the name “Z-COTE®” by the company BASF;
- those marketed under the name “NanoArc® Zinc Oxide” by the company Nanophase Technologies.

Examples of coated zinc oxide pigments include:
- ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogensiloxane;
- CRODA’s “Solaveil™ CZ-100” dispersed in C12-15 alkyl benzonate (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid);
- those marketed under the name and "DAITOPERSION Zn-60VA®" by the company Daito Kasei (dispersions in C9-12 alkane with a dispersing agent);
- those marketed under the name "SPD-Z5®" by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane).

Uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name RHODIGARD® W185 by the company Solvay.

Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the equal-weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin.

When the composition according to the invention comprises inorganic UV filters, titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred.

According to the invention, the composition is free of inorganic filters.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “free from inorganic UV filters” means an amount of inorganic UV filters of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the total quantity of hydrophilic organic UV filters in the composition is greater than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the total amount of hydrophilic organic UV filters is between 5% and 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the total amount of UV filters present in the composition is greater than or equal to 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the total amount of UV filters present in the composition is between 15% and 35% by weight, preferably between 18% and 25% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “total quantity of UV filters” means the sum of the concentrations of each of the UV filters present in the composition, in particular the lipophilic organic UV filters, the hydrophilic organic UV filters, and the inorganic UV filters.

Charges

The composition comprises at least one filler selected from spherical particles of porous silica, in particular spherical microparticles of porous silica, at least one filler selected from spherical particles of cellulose, and at least one filler selected from N-acylated amino acid powders.

The total amount of fillers chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, spherical particles of cellulose, and N-acylated amino acid powders is between 1% and 4% by weight, preferably between 2% and 4% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

The mass ratio (spherical cellulose particles + N-acylated amino acid powders) / (spherical porous silica particles) is between 0.25 and 1.

By charge, we mean particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition whatever the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.

The fillers used in the present invention can be characterized by their specific surface area per unit mass or per unit volume, their size expressed as volume average diameter D(4.3), their unpacked density, and/or their oil absorption capacity.

The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called BET (BRUNAUER – EMMET – TELLER) method described in "The journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles considered.

The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: S _V = S _M x ρ where ρ is the tapped density expressed in g/cm ³ and S _M is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m ² /g, as defined above.

In the context of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, called packed density:

40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder; then the cylinder is placed on the STAV 2003 device from STAMPF VOLUMETER; the cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 tampings (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between 2 consecutive tests is less than 2%); then the final volume Vf of tamped powder is measured directly on the cylinder. The tamped density is determined by the ratio m/Vf, in this case 40/Vf (Vf being expressed in cm ³ and m in g).

The oil absorption capacity measured at the Wet Point, and noted Wp, corresponds to the quantity of oil that must be added to 100 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste.

It is measured according to the so-called Wet Point method or method for determining powder oil uptake described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by measuring the Wet Point, described below.

A quantity m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added drop by drop. After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mix with a spatula and continue adding oil until conglomerates of oil and powder form. From this point on, add the oil one drop at a time and then knead the mixture with the spatula. Stop adding oil when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste should spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. Then note the volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used.

The oil intake corresponds to the Vs/m ratio.

The sizes of the charges can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the MasterSizer 2000 from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine an "effective" particle diameter for non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in the work of Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to a particular embodiment, the fillers which can be used in the present invention have an oil absorption capacity of 0.25 g/g to 3.5 g/g, preferably of 0.93 g/g to 2.5 g/g, or even of 1.25 g/g to 2.5 g/g.

According to a particular embodiment, the fillers which can be used in the present invention have a size expressed in volume average diameter D(4,3) ranging from 0.1 µm to 40 µm, preferably from 0.5 µm to 20 µm, and even more preferably from 1 µm to 16 µm.

According to a particular embodiment, the fillers used in the present invention have a non-compacted density ranging from 0.2 g/cm ³ to 2.2 g/cm ³ .

According to a particular embodiment, they have a specific surface area ranging from 30 to 1000 ^m2 /g, and more particularly from 150 to 800 ^m2 /g.

In the present application, the term “spherical particles” means particles having the shape or substantially the shape of a sphere, insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting temperature of the medium (approximately 100°C).

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the spherical particles of porous silica are microparticles. Preferably, they have a size expressed in volume average diameter D(4.3) ranging from 0.5 to 30 µm, more particularly from 1 to 20 µm, and preferentially from 1 to 16 µm.

As an example of porous silica microbeads, the following commercial products can be used: Silica Beads SB-150, SB-300 or SB 700, preferably SB 300 from the company MYOSHI KASEI; the SUNSPHERE range from the company Asahi Glass AGC SI-TECH, in particular the Sunsphere H-51 or the Sunsphère 12L, Sunsphère H-201, H-52 and H-53; Sunsil 130 from the company Sunjin; Spherica P-1500 from the company Ikeda Corporation; Sylosphere from the company Fuji Silysia; the Silica Pearl and Satinier ranges from JGC Catalysts and Chemicals, more particularly Satinier M13 and M16, the MSS-500 silicas from KOBO, and more particularly MSS-500-20N, as well as the Silica Shells from KOBO.

According to a particular embodiment, the spherical cellulose particles that can be used in the context of the invention are microparticles. Preferably, they have a size expressed in volume average diameter D(4.3) ranging from 0.1 to 35 µm, preferably from 1 to 20 µm, and more particularly from 4 to 15 µm.

Examples of spherical cellulose microparticles include solid cellulose beads marketed under the names CELLULOBEADS D-10, CELLULOBEADS D-5 and CELLULOBEADS USF by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO.

The N-acylated amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group. The amino acid may be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine, preferably lysine.

According to a particular embodiment, the N-acylated amino acid(s) comprise an acyl group having from 10 to 14 carbon atoms. Preferably, this is the lauroyl group. Advantageously, the N-acylated amino acid powder may be a lauroyl lysine powder such as that which is marketed under the name AMIHOPE LL by the company AJINOMOTO or that which is marketed under the name CORUM 5105 S by the company CORUM.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the fillers chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, spherical particles of cellulose, and N-acylated amino acid powders have a heterogeneous particle size, that is to say a large size distribution for a size expressed in given volume average diameter.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional filler other than the spherical particles of porous silica, the spherical particles of cellulose, and the powders of N-acylated amino acid.

Hydrophilic copolymers of AMPS

According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic copolymer comprising at least one acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid monomer (AMPS®).

For the purposes of the invention, the term “copolymer” means a polymer comprising at least two distinct monomer units.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “hydrophilic polymer” means a water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer. The term “water-soluble or water-dispersible” means polymers which, when introduced into an aqueous phase at 25°C, at a mass concentration equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e. having a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 60%, preferably at least 70%.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one copolymer, crosslinked or non-crosslinked, comprising at least the monomer acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid (AMPS®), in free form or in a form partially or totally neutralized by a mineral base (soda, potash, ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di-, or tri-ethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methyl-glucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, as well as the mixture of these compounds.

They are preferably completely neutralized or almost completely neutralized, i.e. neutralized to at least 90%.

The AMPS® copolymers according to the invention can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

By crosslinked polymer is meant a non-linear polymer in the form of a three-dimensional network that is insoluble in water but swellable in water and leads to the production of a chemical gel.

When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

Examples of crosslinking agents that may be mentioned are divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, diallyl urea, trimethylol propane triacrylate, methylene bis acrylamide, methylene bis methacrylamide, triallyl amine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallyl ethylenediamine, tetraallyloxy ethane, trimethylol propane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of sugar alcohols or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, as well as allyl esters of acid derivatives phosphoric and/or vinylphosphonic, or mixtures of these compounds.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA). The crosslinking rate generally ranges from 0.01% to 10% by mole, and more particularly from 0.2% to 2% by mole relative to the polymer.

According to the invention, the monomers derived from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) preferably correspond to the following general formula:
[Chem 4]

in which X+ denotes a cationic counterion, in particular an alkali or alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium, preferably ammonium, or a mixture of cations; R1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched _C1 - _C6 alkyl radical such as methyl, preferably _R1 denotes a hydrogen atom.

Preferably, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer(s) according to the invention are partially or completely salified in the form of an ammonium salt.

Preferably, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer(s) according to the invention are completely salified, preferably in the form of an ammonium salt.

The AMPS® polymers suitable for the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. In this case, they are copolymers obtained from AMPS® and one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above. When said copolymers comprise hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, the latter may or may not comprise fatty chains.

According to a first particular embodiment, in the copolymer(s) obtained from AMPS® and one or more hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above, the hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers do not comprise a fatty chain and are preferably present in small amounts.

According to a second particular embodiment, in the copolymer(s) obtained from AMPS® and one or more hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above, the hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprise at least one fatty chain.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty chain” means any hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms.

The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® copolymers according to the invention contain water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers or hydrophobic monomers or mixtures thereof.

The water-soluble comonomers may be ionic or non-ionic. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the water-soluble comonomers are non-ionic.

Among the ionic water-soluble comonomers, we can cite for example the following compounds and their salts:
- styrene sulfonic acid,
- vinylsulfonic acid and (meth)allylsulfonic acid,
- vinyl phosphonic acid,
- maleic acid,
- itaconic acid,
- crotonic acid,
- water-soluble vinyl monomers of the following formula:
[Chem 5]

in which:
- R ₁ is selected from H, -CH ₃ , -C ₂ H ₅ or -C ₃ H ₇ ;
- X ₁ is chosen from:
- alkyl oxides of the type -OR ₂ where R ₂ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted by at least one sulfonate (-SO ₃ ^- ) and/or sulfate (-SO ₄ ^- ) and/or phosphate (-PO ₄ ^2- ) group.

Among the non-ionic water-soluble comonomers, we can notably cite:
- N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl N-vinylacetamide,
- N-vinylformamide and N-methyl N-vinylformamide,
- maleic anhydride,
- vinylamine,
- N-vinyllactams comprising a cyclic alkyl group having from 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,
- vinyl alcohol of formula CH ₂ =CHOH,
- water-soluble vinyl monomers of the following formula:
[Chem 6]

in which:
- R ₃ is selected from H, -CH ₃ , -C ₂ H ₅ or -C ₃ H ₇ ;
- X ₂ is chosen from alkyl oxides of the type -OR ₄ where R ₄ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 6 carbons, optionally substituted by a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine, fluorine); a hydroxy group (-OH); ether.

Examples include glycidyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol (meth)acrylates.

Among the hydrophobic comonomers without fatty chain, we can cite for example:
- styrene and its derivatives such as 4-butylstyrene, alpha methylstyrene and vinyltoluene;
- vinyl acetate of formula CH ₂ =CH-OCOCH ₃ ;
- vinyl ethers of formula CH ₂ =CHOR in which R is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- acrylonitrile;
- caprolactone;
- vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride;
- silicone derivatives, leading after polymerization to silicone polymers such as methacryloxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane and silicone methacrylamides;
- hydrophobic vinyl monomers of the following formula:
[Chem 7]

in which:
- R ₄ is selected from H, -CH ₃ , -C ₂ H ₅ or -C ₃ H ₇ ;
- X ₃ is chosen from:
- alkyl oxides of the type -OR ₅ where R ₅ is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

Examples include methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate and isobornyl acrylate and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate.

The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® copolymers of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g/mole to 100,000,000 g/mole, preferably from 80,000 g/mole to 100,000,000 g/mole, and even more preferably from 100,000 g/mole to 70,000,000 g/mole.

As water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS in accordance with the invention, we can cite for example:
- copolymers of AMPS® and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC® by the company Clariant (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer) but neutralized by sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;
- copolymers of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as for example the AMPS®/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS® by the company Seppic (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (And) Squalane (And) Polysorbate 60) or such as the product marketed under the name Sodium Acrylamido-2-Methyl propane Sulfonate/Hydroxyethylacrylate Copolymer such as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 from the company Seppic (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer).

As preferred water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of copolymers of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate.

Among the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers which can be used in the context of the invention, mention may also be made of copolymers comprising at least one 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer, at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group and at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer not comprising a hydrophobic group.

Preferably, when the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymer comprises at least one 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer, at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group and at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer not comprising a hydrophobic group, the hydrophobic group is a fatty hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, branched or not, saturated or unsaturated.

The copolymer(s) may be crosslinked in the presence of a crosslinking agent.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the AMPS copolymer(s) are crosslinked.

Preferably, the AMPS® copolymer(s) are crosslinked by a crosslinking agent, and even more preferably they are crosslinked by trimethylol propane triacrylate.

The AMPS® copolymer(s) may also comprise at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group which is preferably an ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one hydrocarbon fatty chain comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 22 and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

The monomer with a hydrophobic group is preferably chosen from acrylates or acrylamides of the following formula:
[Chem 8]

in which R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical, preferably methyl; Y denotes O or NH; R ₂ denotes a hydrocarbon radical comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms and more preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and even more preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; x denotes a number ranging from 0 to 100.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in formula 8, Y denotes an oxygen atom.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in formula 8, the group R1 represents a methyl.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, x represents an integer between 3 and 25, preferably x is equal to 4.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in formula 8, the group R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

According to an even more preferred embodiment of the invention, in formula 8, Y denotes an oxygen atom, the group R1 represents a methyl, the group R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and x represents an integer between 3 and 25, preferably x is equal to 4.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic monomer of formula 8 is tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate (4OE), corresponding to the compound of formula 8 in which the group Y denotes O, the group R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising 12 carbon atoms and x is equal to 4.

Preferably, the monomer with a hydrophobic group is tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the AMPS® copolymer may comprise at least one monomer of formula 8 in which x is equal to 0, with Y representing an oxygen atom, the group R ₁ representing a methyl, the group R ₂ represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

In this embodiment, the monomer with a hydrophobic group is preferably lauryl methacrylate.

According to a particular embodiment, the AMPS® copolymer comprises at least one monomer of formula 8 in which x is equal to 0, with Y preferably denoting an oxygen atom, the group R ₁ representing a methyl, the group R ₂ represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms and at least one monomer of formula 8 in which Y denotes an oxygen atom, the group R ₁ represents a methyl, the group R ₂ represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and x represents an integer between 3 and 25, preferably x is equal to 4.

Preferably, the AMPS® copolymer comprises as monomers with a hydrophobic group lauryl methacrylate and tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.

The AMPS® copolymer(s) also comprise at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer not comprising a hydrophobic group preferably corresponding to the following general formula:
[Chem 9]

in which R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, preferably R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom, R ₂ denotes a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical and R ₃ denotes a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, preferably R ₂ and R ₃ denote a methyl.

The ethylenically unsaturated monomer not comprising a hydrophobic group is chosen from (meth)acrylamides such as acrylamide, (meth)acrylic acids and their esters ((meth)acrylates) such as (2-hydroxyethyl)acrylate, vinyl pyrrolidone, N-(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkylacrylamides, N,N-di(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkylacrylamide such as N,N-dimethylacrylamide.

Preferably, the ethylenically unsaturated monomer not comprising a hydrophobic group is N,N-dimethyl acrylamide.

Preferably, the AMPS® copolymer is chosen from copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, preferably fully salified, of N,N-dimethylacrylamide, of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate and of lauryl methacrylate, preferably crosslinked, such as for example the copolymer marketed under the name Sepimax zen by the company Seppic, and of the INCI name Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one copolymer of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as for example the AMPS®/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS® by the company Seppic (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (And) Squalane (And) Polysorbate 60) or such as the product marketed under the name Sodium Acrylamido-2-Methyl Propane Sulfonate/Hydroxyethylacrylate Copolymer such as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 from the company Seppic (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer).

The AMPS® copolymer(s) described above may be present in concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight and even more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fat phase

The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one fatty phase.

The fatty phase may consist of all fatty substances conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields, it includes in particular the wax(es) defined above and may include at least one oil. The fatty phase further includes the lipophilic filter(s), as well as the fatty alcohol(s) present in the composition according to the invention.

Oil is any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20 – 25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^-3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 ^-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrocarbon oil” means any oil containing mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen. Thus, these oils may in particular contain one or more ester, ether, fluorine, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.

The term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used according to the invention, we can notably cite:

(i) hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids may have chain lengths varying from _C4 to _C24 , the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; These oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, musk rose; or caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel;
(ii) synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
(iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof;
(iv) synthetic esters such as oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' is ≥ 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN®" or "Witconol TN®" by the company WITCO or "TEGOSOFT TN ®" by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name "X-TEND 226®" by the company ISP, lanolate isopropyl, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name "Dub Dis" by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates such as linear C12-C13 dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI® by the company ENICHEM AUGUSTA INDUSTRIALE as well as linear C14-C15 dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETL® by the same company; acetates;
(v) fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;
(vi) higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;
(vii) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate such as the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC®” by the company Cognis;
and their mixtures.

Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used according to the invention, the following will be particularly preferred: glyceride triesters and in particular caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol. Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils are chosen from diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate and dicaprylyl carbonate.

As volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO2008/155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes and different by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from copra or palm oil. Mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of the application WO2008/155059 of the company Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97®, as well as their mixtures.

Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt® by the company SHELL, may also be used. According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

The non-volatile silicone oils may be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, pendant and/or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity ≤ 8 centistokes (8 10 ^-6 m ² /s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

We can also cite volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils such as:
3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane,
3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, and
3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane.

Fluorinated volatile oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof, may also be used.

The fatty phase according to the invention may also comprise, mixed with or dissolved in the oil, other fatty substances.

Another fatty substance that may be present in the oily phase may be, for example:
- a fatty acid chosen from fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms different from fatty chain amino acids as defined above, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;
- a gum chosen from silicone gums (dimethiconol),
- a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives,
- and their mixtures.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the overall fatty phase, including all the lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, including the lipophilic filters, represents from 20% to 70% by weight, and preferably from 30% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase contains water, and possibly other organic solvents soluble or miscible in water.

An aqueous phase suitable for the invention may comprise, for example, water chosen from a natural spring water, such as La Roche-Posay water, Vittel water, Saint Gervais Mont Blanc water, or Vichy water, or a floral water.

Water-soluble or miscible solvents suitable for the invention include, in addition to short-chain alcohols as defined above, diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol, and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular form of the invention, the overall aqueous phase, including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, represents from 30 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cosmetic active ingredients

The composition of the present invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

Examples of cosmetic active ingredients include moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates, polyglycerin-3; natural extracts; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid and their derivatives; retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; extracts of algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria; enzymes; tightening agents; agents acting on microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one moisturizing agent. Preferably, this is polyglycerin-3.

It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the amount of cosmetic active ingredient depending on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

Additional adjuvants or additives

The composition of the present invention may also include conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, fragrances, chelating agents (e.g., tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and disodium EDTA), preservatives (e.g., chlorphenesin and phenoxy ethanol) and bactericides, additional thickeners (such as polysaccharides), pH adjusters (e.g., triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide), fillers (e.g., aluminum starch octenylsuccinate and polymethylsilesquioxane) and mixtures thereof.

One skilled in the art can select the amount of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to harm the end use of the composition according to the present invention.

Dosage forms

According to a particular embodiment, the viscosity of the compositions in accordance with the invention, at 25°C and under atmospheric pressure, is less than or equal to 500 mPa.s, preferably less than or equal to 300 mPa.s.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the viscosity is greater than or equal to 20 mPa.s, preferably greater than or equal to 100 mPa.s.

Viscosity can be measured at 25 °C using a Rheomat RM180 ® rheometer from Maple Instruments, at a rotation speed of 200 rpm with a TV spindle No. 2 after 10 minutes. The viscosity value is obtained in Pa.s.

The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art. They can be presented in particular in the form of an emulsion, simple or complex (O/W, W/O, O/W/O or W/O/W) such as a cream, a milk or a cream gel.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion. It may in particular be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (direct emulsion) or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (reverse emulsion). Preferably, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

In the case of compositions in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, the emulsification processes that can be used are of the blade or propeller, rotor-stator and HHP type.

To obtain stable emulsions with a low polymer content (oil/polymer ratio >25), it is possible to make the dispersion in concentrated phase then dilute the dispersion with the rest of the aqueous phase.

It is also possible, by HHP (between 50 and 800 bars), to obtain stable dispersions with drop sizes down to 100 nm.

The emulsions may generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are chosen appropriately according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W).

Examples of W/O emulsifying surfactants include alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol, glycerol or sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C®" by the company Dow Corning, and alkyl-dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Corning; Cetyl dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R® by the company Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE O9® by the company Goldschmidt. One or more co-emulsifiers may also be added, which, advantageously, may be chosen from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters.

We can also cite non-silicone emulsifying surfactants, in particular alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol or sugars.

Examples of polyol alkyl esters include polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel P135® by the company ICI.

As glycerol and/or sorbitan esters, mention may be made, for example, of polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Isolan GI 34® by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 987® by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 986® by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.

For H/W emulsions, examples of nonionic emulsifying surfactants that may be mentioned include polyoxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated) fatty acid and glycerol esters, such as the ester of polyethylene glycol and stearic acid with the INCI name PEG-100 STEARATE marketed under the name Myrj S100-PA-(SG) by the company CRODA; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; polyoxyalkylenated (in particular polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated) fatty acid esters, optionally in combination with a fatty acid and glycerol ester, such as the PEG-100 Stearate/Glyceryl Stearate mixture marketed, for example, by the company ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, in particular alkylpolyglucosides (APG) such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside marketed for example by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000® and Plantaren 1200®, cetostearylglucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name Montanov 68® by Seppic, under the name Tegocare CG90® by Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302® by Henkel, as well as arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidylglucoside marketed under the name Montanov 202® by Seppic. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described for example in document WO-A-92/06778.

As anionic surfactants for producing H/W emulsions, mention may be made of surfactants chosen from amino acids modified by at least one _C8 - _C30 hydrocarbon chain, preferably _C8 - _C24 , and their salts, in particular acyl glutamic acids (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or one of their salts (acyl glutamates), such as stearoyl glutamic acid or one of its salts, in particular sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI name).

Such compounds are marketed under the name AMISOFT by the company AJINOMOTO and in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11, Amisoft CK-11, or under the name EUMULGIN SG by the company COGNIS.

As anionic surfactants for producing H/W emulsions, mention may also be made of hydrophobic modified polysaccharides, in particular inulins modified by hydrophobic chains such as alkylcarbamate groups, in particular C8-C18 alkyl carbamate, and more particularly laurylcarbamate.

As an example of these compounds, we can notably cite the product sold under the name INUTEC SL1 by the company CREACHEM.

When it is an emulsion, the aqueous phase thereof may comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known methods (Bangham, Standish and Watkins. J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).

The compositions according to the invention find their application in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetic treatments, of the skin, lips and hair, including the scalp, in particular for the protection and/or care of the skin, lips and/or hair, and/or for the makeup of the skin and/or lips.

Another object of the present invention consists of the use of the compositions according to the invention as defined above for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and/or scalp, in particular care products, sun protection products and makeup products.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will now be described more specifically by way of examples, which are in no way limiting of the scope of the invention. However, the examples serve to support specific features, variations, and preferred embodiments of the invention.

In these examples, the quantities of the ingredients present in the compositions are given in % by weight of raw materials relative to the total weight of the composition.

Sensory evaluation

The cosmetic properties are evaluated by 4 people trained in the description of skincare products and trained in the Playtime & Touch protocol. The sensory evaluation of skincare products by this panel is carried out as follows: the products are packaged in pots and tested on SkinFX synthetic skin. Within the same session, the samples are presented at the same time to each panelist. The experts place a drop of product (0.05 mL) on the back of the hand and spread the product for 15 seconds. After an additional 15 seconds, the spreading is resumed, again for 15 seconds.

The descriptors of slipperiness, stickiness, greasiness (amount of film-forming substance on the fingers) and shine are evaluated after 2 minutes 45 seconds in total.

These descriptors are rated on a scale of 1 to 5: 1 = not at all, 2 = little, 3 = moderately, 4 = quite a bit, 5 = very, and the rating reflects expert consensus. For the descriptors Slipperiness and Shine, the bare skin rating is 3.

Stability study

The stability of the compositions is evaluated macroscopically (Appearance, Color, Odor, pH and viscosity) and microscopically at 1 week at 55°C, and at 1 month at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C.

Macroscopic stability is assessed by eye and microscopic stability is assessed using a white light optical microscope.

Filtering efficiency evaluation protocol

In-vitro: The sun protection factor (SPF) is determined according to the “in vitro” method described by B. L. Diffey in J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 40, 127-133, (1989). The measurements were carried out using a UV-1000S spectrophotometer from Labsphère.

The in vitro UVA protection factor (PPD) of a sunscreen product against UVA radiation calculated mathematically by in vitro spectral modeling according to the ISO 24443:2012 protocol (Fr).

Each composition is applied to six rough PMMA plates, in the form of a homogeneous and regular deposit at a rate of 1 mg/cm2. The spreading of each composition is done using an automated robot that makes regular and uniform movements on three plates called HD6 (molded granular plates) and three plates called SB6 (sandblasted granular plates). The plate is weighed before and after spreading. Once the six plates are spread, we put them to rest in Thermo-Masters in the dark at 25 °C for 30 minutes. We carry out the measurements using the UV-1000S spectrophotometer from Labsphère. We make 9 measurements per plate, then we analyze the measurements using an Excel spreadsheet that provides us with the SPF and PPD values of the measured composition.

Example 1 - Composition 1

The following composition is prepared.
[Table 1]
Phase Composition 1
(invention) A1 WATER / AQUA 30 A1 PROPANEDIOL 3 A1 COMPLEXING AGENT(S) 0.3 A1 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 A2 PEG-20 0.2 A2 SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE
(AMISOFT HS 11 from AJINOMOTO) 0.3 A2 INULIN LAURYL CARBAMATE
(INUTEC SL1 from CREACHEM) 0.3 A3 PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID
(EUSOLEX 232 from MERCK) 7 A3 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 1.02 B1 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE
(MONTANOV 68 by SEPPIC) 1.4 B1 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE
(NEO HELIOPAN OS of SYMRISE) 5 B1 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE
(PARSOL 1789 from DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS) 3 B1 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE
(TINOSORB S from BASF) 3 B1 DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE
(UVINUL A PLUS GRANULAR from BASF) 2 B1 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE
(UVINUL T150 from BASF) 2.5 B1 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 10 B2 DIMETHICONE 3.4 B2 TITANIUM DIOXIDE 0.01 B2 SCENT 0.25 B2 TOCOPHEROL 0.1 B3 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER
(SEPINOV EMT 10 from SEPPIC) 1.2 B3 XANTHAN GUM 0.1 C WATER / AQUA 14.12 D ALCOHOL DENAT. 5 E SILICA
(SUNSPHERE H51 from AGC Si-TECH) 2 E CELLULOSE
(CELLULOBEADS USF by DAITO KASEI KOGYO) 0.25 E LAUROYL LYSINE
(AMIHOPE LL by AJINOMOTO) 0.75 F METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL (and) POLYGLYCERYL-10 LAURATE
(TINOSORB WPGL from BASF) 4

Method of preparation of composition 1

Phase A is prepared as follows:
Introduction of raw materials of phases A1 and A2 into a beaker and heating to 65 °C under magnetic stirring. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained.
Introduction of raw materials of phase A3. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained while maintaining the temperature at 65 °C.

Phase B is prepared as follows:
Introduction of the raw materials of phase B1 into a beaker and heating to 75 °C under magnetic stirring. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained.
Stop heating and add, with stirring, the raw materials of phase B2 and then phase B3. Dispersion until a homogeneous mixture is obtained and the temperature is maintained at 65°C.

At 65°C, phase A is poured slowly, with rotor-stator stirring and scraping blades, into phase B.
Dispersion until a compliant emulsion is obtained.
Dilution by the introduction of phase C with stirring.
Dispersion under rotor-stator agitation and scraping blades until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while starting cooling.
Continued cooling under scraping blades alone.
At temperature < 30°C, addition of phase D and raw materials of phase E.
Dispersion under rotor-stator agitation and scraping blades until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while continuing cooling.
Continue cooling under scraper blades alone if necessary.
Introduction of phase F.
Dispersion under scraping blades only until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while maintaining the temperature.

Results obtained

The results of the sensory analysis are as follows.
[Table 2]
Composition 1
(invention) Sticky 1/5 (not sticky) Fat 1/5 (not fat) Sliding 3/5 (like bare skin) Brilliance 3.5/5 (very slightly shinier than bare skin)

Composition 1 according to the invention has good cosmetic qualities; in particular, it is non-sticky and non-greasy.
In addition, it provides good sun protection, with an SPF of 50 and a PPD of 17.

Examples 2 to 6 – Influence of the presence of charges on sensoriality

The following compositions are prepared.
[Table 3]
Phase Composition 2
(invention) 3
(comparative) 4
(comparative) A1 WATER / AQUA 30 30 30 A1 PROPANEDIOL 3 3 3 A1 COMPLEXING AGENT(S) 0.3 0.3 0.3 A1 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 0.3 A2 PEG-20 0.2 0.2 0.2 A2 SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE
(AMISOFT HS 11 from AJINOMOTO) 0.3 0.3 0.3 A2 INULIN LAURYL CARBAMATE
(INUTEC SL1 from CREACHEM) 0.3 0.3 0.3 A3 PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID
(EUSOLEX 232 from MERCK) 7 7 7 A3 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 1.02 1.02 1.02 B1 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE
(MONTANOV 68 by SEPPIC) 1.4 1.4 1.4 B1 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE
(PARSOL 1789 from DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS) 3 3 3 B1 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE
(TINOSORB S from BASF) 3 3 3 B1 DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE
(UVINUL A PLUS GRANULAR from BASF) 2 2 2 B1 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE
(UVINUL T150 from BASF) 2.5 2.5 2.5 B1 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 15 15 15 B2 DIMETHICONE 3.4 3.4 3.4 B2 SCENT 0.25 0.25 0.25 B2 TOCOPHEROL 0.1 0.1 0.1 B3 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER
(SEPINOV EMT 10 from SEPPIC) 1.2 1.2 1.2 B3 XANTHAN GUM 0.1 0.1 0.1 C WATER / AQUA 13.63 13.63 13.63 D ALCOHOL DENAT. 5 5 5 E SILICA
(SUNSPHERE H51 from AGC Si-TECH) 2 2.8 1 E CELLULOSE
(CELLULOBEADS USF by DAITO KASEI KOGYO) 0.25 0.1 0.1 E LAUROYL LYSINE 0.75 0.1 1.9 F METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL (and) POLYGLYCERYL-10 LAURATE
(TINOSORB WPGL from BASF) 4 4 4 Total quantity ( cellulose spherical particles + N-acylated amino acid powders + porous silica spherical particles) 3 3 3 Mass ratio ( cellulose spherical particles + N-acylated amino acid powders) / (porous silica spherical particles) 0.5 0.07 2

Phase Composition 5
(invention) 6
(comparative) A1 WATER / AQUA 30 30 A1 PROPANEDIOL 3 3 A1 COMPLEXING AGENT(S) 0.3 0.3 A1 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 A2 PEG-20 0.2 0.2 A2 SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE
(AMISOFT HS 11 from AJINOMOTO) 0.3 0.3 A2 INULIN LAURYL CARBAMATE
(INUTEC SL1 from CREACHEM) 0.3 0.3 A3 PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID
(EUSOLEX 232 from MERCK) 7 7 A3 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 1.02 1.02 B1 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE
(MONTANOV 68 by SEPPIC) 1.4 1.4 B1 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE
(PARSOL 1789 from DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS) 3 3 B1 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE
(TINOSORB S from BASF) 3 3 B1 DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE
(UVINUL A PLUS GRANULAR from BASF) 2 2 B1 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE
(UVINUL T150 from BASF) 2.5 2.5 B1 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 15 15 B2 DIMETHICONE 3.4 3.4 B2 SCENT 0.25 0.25 B2 TOCOPHEROL 0.1 0.1 B3 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER
(SEPINOV EMT 10 from SEPPIC) 1.2 1.2 B3 XANTHAN GUM 0.1 0.1 C WATER / AQUA 13.63 13.63 D ALCOHOL DENAT. 5 5 E SILICA
(SUNSPHERE H51 from AGC Si-TECH) 1.9 1 E CELLULOSE
(CELLULOBEADS USF by DAITO KASEI KOGYO) 1 0.125 E LAUROYL LYSINE
(AMIHOPE LL by AJINOMOTO) 0.1 0.375 F METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL (and) POLYGLYCERYL-10 LAURATE
(TINOSORB WPGL from BASF) 4 4 Total quantity ( spherical cellulose particles + N-acylated amino acid powders + spherical porous silica particles) 3 1.5 Mass ratio ( (spherical cellulose particles + N-acylated amino acid powders) / (spherical porous silica particles) 0.58 0.5

Method of preparation of the compositions

Phase A is prepared as follows:
Introduction of raw materials of phase A1 and phase A2 and heating to 65 °C under magnetic stirring. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained.
Introduction of raw materials of phase A3. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained, maintaining the temperature at 65°C.

Phase B is prepared as follows:
Introduction of the raw materials of phase B1 into a beaker and heating to 75 °C under magnetic stirring. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained.
Stop heating and add, with stirring, the raw materials of phase B2 and then phase B3. Dispersion until a homogeneous mixture is obtained and the temperature is maintained at 65°C.

At 65°C, phase A is slowly poured into phase B with rotor-stator stirring and scraping blades.
Dispersion until a compliant emulsion is obtained.
Dilution by the introduction of phase C with stirring.
Dispersion under rotor-stator agitation and scraping blades until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while starting cooling.
Continue cooling under scraping blades alone.
At temperature < 30°C, addition of phase D and raw materials of phase E.
Dispersion under rotor-stator agitation and scraping blades until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while continuing cooling.
Continue cooling under scraper blades alone if necessary.
Introduction of phase F.
Dispersion under scraping blades only until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while maintaining the temperature.

Results obtained

The stability results are as follows.
[Table 5]
Composition 2 (invention) 3 (comparative) 4 (comparative) Viscosity in mPa.s 254 278 238 pH 7.0 +/- 0.3 6.7 +/- 0.3 6.7 +/- 0.3 Stability after 1 week at 55°C Stable Stable Stable Sensoriality Not greasy, not shiny Too greasy and too shiny Too greasy, too shiny

Composition 5 (invention) 6 (invention) Viscosity in mPa.s 254 222 pH 6.7 +/- 0.3 6.8 +/- 0.3 Stability after 1 week at 55°C Stable Stable Sensoriality Not greasy, not shiny Not greasy, not shiny

These results show that for equivalent sensoriality in terms of stickiness, stability and sun protection, when the compositions comprise a total quantity of fillers of between 1% and 4% by weight with a mass ratio (spherical cellulose particles + N-acylated amino acid powders) / (spherical porous silica particles) of between 0.25 and 1 (see compositions 2, 5 and 6 according to the invention), they have optimal sensoriality with regard to the oily finish and shine.

Examples 7 to 10 – Influence of the mass ratio between hydrophilic organic UV filters and lipophilic organic UV filters

The following compositions are prepared.
[Table 7]
Phase Composition 7 8 A1 WATER / AQUA 30 30 A1 PROPANEDIOL 3 3 A1 COMPLEXING AGENT(S) 0.3 0.3 A1 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 A2 PEG-20 0.2 0.2 A2 SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE
(AMISOFT HS 11 from AJINOMOTO) 0.3 0.3 A2 INULIN LAURYL CARBAMATE
(INUTEC SL1 from CREACHEM) 0.3 0.3 A3 PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID
(EUSOLEX 232 from MERCK) 7 7 A3 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 1.02 1.02 B1 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE
(MONTANOV 68 by SEPPIC) 1.4 1.4 B1 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE
(NEO HELIOPAN OS of SYMRISE) - 5 B1 OCTOCRYLENE
(UVINUL N 539 T from BASF) - 1 B1 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE
(PARSOL 1789 from DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS) 3 3.5 B1 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE
(TINOSORB S from BASF) 3 3 B1 DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE
(UVINUL A PLUS GRANULAR from BASF) 2 2 B1 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE
(UVINUL T150 from BASF) 2.5 3 B1 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 15 10 B2 DIMETHICONE 3.4 3.4 B2 SCENT 0.25 0.25 B2 TOCOPHEROL 0.1 0.1 B3 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER
(SEPINOV EMT 10 from SEPPIC) 1.2 1 B3 XANTHAN GUM 0.1 0.1 C WATER / AQUA QSP 100 QSP 100 D ALCOHOL DENAT. 5 5 E SILICA
(SUNSPHERE H51 from AGC Si-TECH) 2 2 E CELLULOSE
(CELLULOBEADS USF by DAITO KASEI KOGYO) 0.25 0.25 E LAUROYL LYSINE
(AMIHOPE LL by AJINOMOTO) 0.75 0.75 F METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL (and) POLYGLYCERYL-10 LAURATE
(TINOSORB WPGL from BASF) 4 - Mass ratio between hydrophilic organic UV filters and lipophilic organic UV filters 0.85 0.4

Phase Composition 9 10 A1 WATER / AQUA 30 30 A1 PROPANEDIOL 3 3 A1 COMPLEXING AGENT(S) 0.3 0.3 A1 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 A2 PEG-20 0.2 0.2 A2 SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE
(AMISOFT HS 11 from AJINOMOTO) 0.3 0.3 A2 INULIN LAURYL CARBAMATE
(INUTEC SL1 from CREACHEM) 0.3 0.3 A3 PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID
(EUSOLEX 232 from MERCK) 3 8 A3 TEREPHTHALYLIDENE DICAMPHOR SULFONIC ACID
(MEXORYL SX from NOVEAL) - 4.55 A3 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.46 1.39 B1 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE
(MONTANOV 68 by SEPPIC) 1.4 1.4 B1 OCTOCRYLENE
(UVINUL N 539 T from BASF) 7 - B1 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE
(PARSOL 1789 from DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS) 3 2 B1 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE
(TINOSORB S from BASF) 4 3 B1 DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE
(UVINUL A PLUS GRANULAR from BASF) 2 2 B1 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE
(UVINUL T150 from BASF) 3.6 2 B1 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 10 10 B2 DIMETHICONE 3.4 3.4 B2 SCENT 0.25 0.25 B2 TOCOPHEROL 0.1 0.1 B3 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER
(SEPINOV EMT 10 from SEPPIC) 1 1.2 B3 XANTHAN GUM 0.1 0.1 C WATER / AQUA QSP 100 QSP 100 D ALCOHOL DENAT. 5 5 E SILICA
(SUNSPHERE H51 from AGC Si-TECH) 2 2 E CELLULOSE
(CELLULOBEADS USF by DAITO KASEI KOGYO) 0.25 0.25 E LAUROYL LYSINE
(AMIHOPE LL by AJINOMOTO) 0.75 0.75 F METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL (and) POLYGLYCERYL-10 LAURATE
(TINOSORB WPGL from BASF) 4 4 Mass ratio between hydrophilic organic UV filters and lipophilic organic UV filters 0.15 1.4

Method of preparation of the compositions

Phase A is prepared as follows:
Introduction of raw materials of phases A1 and A2 and heating to 65 °C under magnetic stirring. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained.
Introduction of raw materials of phase A3. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained while maintaining the temperature at 65 °C.

Phase B is prepared as follows:
Introduction of the raw materials of phase B1 into a beaker and heating to 75 °C under magnetic stirring. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained.
Stop heating and add, with stirring, the raw materials of phase B2 and then phase B3. Dispersion until a homogeneous mixture is obtained and the temperature is maintained at 65°C.
At 65°C, phase A is slowly poured into phase B with rotor-stator stirring and scraping blades.
Dispersion until a compliant emulsion is obtained.
Dilution by the introduction of phase C with stirring.
Dispersion under rotor-stator agitation and scraping blades until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while starting cooling.
Continued cooling under scraping blades alone.
At temperature < 30°C, addition of phase D and raw materials of phase E.
Dispersion under rotor-stator agitation and scraping blades until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while continuing cooling.
Continue cooling under scraper blades alone if necessary.
Introduction of phase F.
Dispersion under scraping blades only until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while maintaining the temperature.

Results obtained

The stability results are as follows.
[Table 9]
Composition 7 8 Viscosity in mPa.s 254 286 pH 7.0 +/- 0.3 6.7 +/- 0.3 Stability after 1 week at 55°C Stable Stable Sensoriality: sticky 1 / 5 1/5 SPF 55.6 60.6

Composition 9 10 Viscosity in mPa.s 270 304 pH 7.1 +/- 0.3 6.8 +/- 0.3 Stability after 1 week at 55°C Stable Stable Sensoriality: sticky 2.5 / 5 2.5 / 5 SPF 60.3 60.2

These results show that for equivalent stability and sun protection, compositions having a mass ratio between hydrophilic organic UV filters and lipophilic organic UV filters of between 0.3 and 1 (see compositions 7 and 8) are not very sticky, which is not the case when the compositions have a mass ratio between hydrophilic organic UV filters and lipophilic organic UV filters of less than 0.3 (see composition 9) or greater than 1 (see composition 10).

Examples 11 to 15 - Influence of the presence of polymers on stability

The following compositions are prepared.
[Table 11]
Phase Composition 11 12 13 A1 WATER / AQUA 30 30 30 A1 PHENYL BENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID
(EUSOLEX 232 from MERCK) 7 7 7 A1 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 1.02 1.02 1.02 A1 PROPANEDIOL 3 3 3 A1 COMPLEXING AGENT(S) 0.3 0.3 0.3 A1 PEG-20 0.2 0.2 0.2 A2 SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE
(AMISOFT HS 11 from AJINOMOTO) 0.3 0.3 0.3 A2 INULIN LAURYL CARBAMATE
(INUTEC SL1 from CREACHEM) 0.3 0.3 0.3 B1 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE
(MONTANOV 68 by SEPPIC) 1.4 1.4 1.4 B1 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE
(NEO HELIOPAN OS of SYMRISE) 4.5 4.5 4.5 B1 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYL
METHANE
(PARSOL 1789 from DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS) 3 3 3 B1 BIS-ETHYLHEXYL
OXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE
(TINOSORB S from BASF) 3 3 3 B1 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE
(UVINUL T150 from BASF) 2.5 2.5 2.5 B1 DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE
(UVINUL A PLUS GRANULAR from BASF) 2 2 2 B1 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 10 10 10 B1 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 0.3 B2 TOCOPHEROL 0.1 0.1 0.1 B2 DIMETHICONE 3.4 3.4 3.4 B2 SCENT 0.25 0.25 0.25 B3 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER
(SEPINOV EMT 10 from SEPPIC) 1.2 - - B3 POLYACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER-6
(SEPIMAX ZEN by SEPPIC) - 0.25 - B3 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER
(SEPIMAX C from SEPPIC) - - 0.25 B3 XANTHAN GUM 0.1 0.1 0.1 C WATER / AQUA QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 D ALCOHOL DENAT. 5 5 5 D SILICA
(SUNSPHERE H51 from AGC Si-TECH) 2 2 2 D LAUROYL LYSINE
(AMIHOPE LL by AJINOMOTO) 0.75 0.75 0.75 D CELLULOSE
(CELLULOBEADS USF by DAITO KASEI KOGYO) 0.25 0.25 0.25 E METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL (and) POLYGLYCERYL-10 LAURATE
(TINOSORB WPGL from BASF) 4 4 4

Phase Composition 14 15 A1 WATER / AQUA 30 30 A1 PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID
(EUSOLEX 232 from MERCK) 7 7 A1 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 1.02 1.02 A1 PROPANEDIOL 3 3 A1 COMPLEXING AGENT(S) 0.3 0.3 A1 PEG-20 0.2 0.2 A2 SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE
(AMISOFT HS 11 from AJINOMOTO) 0.3 0.3 A2 INULIN LAURYL CARBAMATE
(INUTEC SL1 from CREACHEM) 0.3 0.3 B1 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE
(MONTANOV 68 by SEPPIC) 1.4 1.4 B1 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE
(NEO HELIOPAN OS of SYMRISE) 4.5 4.5 B1 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE
(PARSOL 1789 from DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS) 3 3 B1 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE
(TINOSORB S from BASF) 3 3 B1 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE
(TINOSORB T150 from BASF) 2.5 2.5 B1 DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE
(UVINUL A PLUS GRANULAR from BASF) 2 2 B1 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 10 10 B1 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 B2 TOCOPHEROL 0.1 0.1 B2 DIMETHICONE 3.4 3.4 B2 SCENT 0.25 0.25 B3 AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE
(HOSTACERIN AMPS from CLARIANT) 0.5 - B3 CARBOMER
(CARBOPOL 980 POLYMER from LUBRIZOL) - 0.4 B3 XANTHAN GUM 0.1 0.1 C WATER / AQUA QSP 100 QSP 100 C TRIETHANOLAMINE - 0.4 D ALCOHOL DENAT. 5 5 D SILICA
(SUNSPHERE H51 from AGC Si-TECH) 2 2 D LAUROYL LYSINE
(AMIHOPE LL by AJINOMOTO) 0.75 0.75 D CELLULOSE
(CELLULOBEADS USF by DAITO KASEI KOGYO) 0.25 0.25 E METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL (and) POLYGLYCERYL-10 LAURATE
(TINOSORB WPGL from BASF) 4 4

Method of preparation of the compositions

Phase A is prepared as follows:
Introduction of raw materials of phase A1 and heating to 65 °C under magnetic stirring. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained.
Introduction of raw materials of phase A2. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained while maintaining the temperature at 65 °C.

Phase B is prepared as follows:
Introduction of the raw materials of phase B1 into a beaker and heating to 75 °C under magnetic stirring. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained.
Stop heating and add, with stirring, the raw materials of phase B2 and then phase B3. Dispersion until a homogeneous mixture is obtained and the temperature is maintained at 65°C.

At 65°C, phase A is slowly poured into phase B with rotor-stator stirring and scraping blades.
Dispersion until a compliant emulsion is obtained.
Dilution by the introduction of phase C with stirring.
Dispersion under rotor-stator agitation and scraping blades until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while starting cooling.
Continued cooling under scraping blades alone.
At temperature < 30°C, add phase D.
Dispersion under rotor-stator agitation and scraping blades until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while continuing cooling.
Continue cooling under scraper blades alone if necessary.
Introduction of phase E.
Dispersion under scraping blades only until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while maintaining the temperature.

Results obtained

The stability results are as follows.
[Table 13]
Composition 11 12 13 Macroscopic physicochemical characterization Fluid, smooth and shiny, off-white, scented Fluid, smooth and shiny, off-white, scented Fluid, airy and shiny, off-white, scented Viscosity in mPa.s 270 391 278 pH 6.8 +/- 0.3 7.0 +/- 0.3 7.1 +/- 0.3 Centrifugation RAS RAS RAS Microscopic stability after 1 week at 55°C Stable Stable Stable Microscopic stability after 1 month at 4°C, 25°C, and 45°C Stable Stable Stable

Composition 14 15 Macroscopic physicochemical characterization Fluid, smooth and shiny, off-white, scented Fluid, smooth and shiny, off-white, scented Viscosity in mPa.s 374 295 pH 6.8 +/- 0.3 6.2 +/- 0.3 Centrifugation RAS Creaming Microscopic stability after 1 week at 55°C Unstable – Heterogeneous emulsion with globules of different sizes and loose edges Unstable – Heterogeneous emulsion with globules of different sizes and loose edges

These results show that when the compositions comprise an AMPS copolymer, in particular SEPINOV EMT 10 from SEPPIC (see composition 11), SEPIMAX ZEN from SEPPIC (see composition 12) and SEPIMAX C from SEPPIC (see composition 13), they exhibit better stability over time than when the compositions comprise an AMPS homopolymer such as Hostacerin AMPS from Clariant (see composition 14) or an acrylic polymer such as CARBOPOL 980 POLYMER from LUBRIZOL (see composition 15).

Claims (16)

Composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:
a) at least one lipophilic organic UV filter;
b) at least one hydrophilic organic UV filter;
(c) at least one filler selected from spherical particles of porous silica, in particular spherical microparticles of porous silica;
(d) at least one filler selected from spherical cellulose particles; and
e) at least one filler selected from N-acylated amino acid powders;
the total amount of fillers chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, spherical particles of cellulose, and N-acylated amino acid powders being between 1% and 4% by weight, preferably between 2% and 4% by weight of the total weight of the composition, and
the mass ratio (spherical cellulose particles + N-acylated amino acid powders) / (spherical porous silica particles) being between 0.25 and 1. Composition according to claim 1, in which the lipophilic organic UV filter(s) are chosen from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; filter polymers and filter silicones; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadienes and mixtures thereof; preferably salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2 in which the hydrophilic organic UV filter(s) are chosen from water-soluble organic UV filters and water-dispersible organic UV filters. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the water-soluble organic UV filter(s) are chosen from benzene 1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid); benzene 1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid); and their salts. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the water-dispersible organic UV filter(s) are chosen from Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size which varies from 0.01 to 5 μm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 μm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant of structure C _n H _2n+1 O(C ₆ H ₁₀ O ₅ ) _x H in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C ₆ H ₁₀ O ₅ ) and varies from 1.4 to 1.6; Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 μm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 μm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 μm, in the presence of at least one mono-(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl ester of polyglycerol having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of at least 5; Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine in its water-dispersible form with the INCI name Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer; symmetrical triazine filters substituted by naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 µm), and in particular in aqueous dispersion form, in particular 2,4,6-tris(bi-phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 in which the total quantity of UV filters is greater than or equal to 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 in which the mass ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV filters and the lipophilic organic UV filters is greater than 0.3, preferably between 0.35 and 1. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 in which the quantity of water-dispersible organic UV filters is less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 comprising at least one hydrophilic copolymer comprising at least one acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid monomer (AMPS®). Composition according to claim 9 in which the AMPS copolymer(s) are chosen from copolymers obtained from AMPS® and one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents. Composition according to claim 10 in which the hydrophilic ethylenically unsaturated monomer(s) are nonionic. Composition according to any one of claims 10 and 11 in which the hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomer(s) comprise a fatty chain. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 in the form of an emulsion, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 in which the quantity in fatty phase is between 20% and 70% by weight, preferably between 30% and 50% of the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, the viscosity of the composition being less than or equal to 500 Pa.s. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and/or makeup of a keratin material comprising the application to the surface of said keratin material of at least one composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 15.