ES2548057T3 - Elastic leather garment - Google Patents

Abstract

Leather garment with - an outer layer of leather (1) that is attached to - an inner layer of elastic material (2), which is a textile fabric, where the leather (1) is provided with folds (11) in Most of its surface that, more or less, are evenly distributed over the surface, the leather garment is composed of an outer layer of leather (1) and is characterized by several seams (3), which are separated between Yes, they join the leather (1) with the elastic material (2), the textile fabric (2) being joined with the leather only through the seams and it can be separated from it minimally in the center areas, and because the leather (1) This composed of at least 2 pieces of leather (12) and said pieces of leather (12), in the area of the seam (3), are only in contact at the edges, where the threads (31) are made of elastic material at least in the longitudinal direction.

Description

Elastic leather garment

[0001] The invention relates to a leather garment, composed of an outer layer of leather attached to an inner layer of elastic material, which is a textile fabric, and the leather is provided with folds in most of its surface which, to a greater or lesser extent, are uniformly distributed over the surface.

[0002] Thousands of years ago, animal skins are used to dress people. In the current state of the art, numerous procedures are known for stripping animals of their skin, removing the skin and tanning it in several steps. In the event that leather is the only material in clothing, it must have a thickness of at least 1 mm to ensure sufficient resistance to breakage. The drawback is that, in general, the clothes have a relatively high weight and offer minimal elasticity, for example, on the knees or elbows.

[0003] To increase the elasticity of leather, patent O 297 764 describes how leather is bonded to threads

of rubber or rubber surfaces. In this case a rubber material union is also mentioned and

leather.

[0004] The drawback of the composite material obtained is that, due to the rubber layer as well as the adhesive, a relatively high weight is achieved and the material adapts to the body shapes only with great effort whereby the comfort of use.

[0005] Another limitation is that the rubber surfaces do not let the air pass at all and therefore cause a high degree of sweating. Therefore, in practice, this material can only be used with additional layers that allow at least some air to enter the body. In this case, the use of this material in light garments, for example, for summer garments, is excluded in principle.

[0006] When the hitherto known "elastic leather" was introduced as a considerably light material, wrinkles and little aesthetic bags appeared. If the rubber surfaces have a relatively large layer thickness and a relatively very thin layer of leather, in comparison, the material is not elastic, it can only be folded with great effort and is completely impermeable to air. Even its outward appearance corresponds, for the most part, with a rubber skin, through which the exposed bones or the outgoing curves of the body are not always clearly outlined outwards in a timely manner.

[0007] GB 797,523 describes a double layer material, whose leather layer is conferred waveform before joining and, thus, has sinuses and ridges that extend parallel to each other. On all the crests of one part, adhesive is applied that joins the wavy leather to a second layer of textile material. With the waveform, the total elasticity of the leather layer increases, while extending the material, a "crest" of the leather layer is separated first. When the crest is stretched, the elasticity of the leather will be tested in case of extending the material again.

[0008] The drawback of this is that the adhesive, particularly in very thin layers of leather or fine textile material, not only penetrates the layers, but can also be filtered and displayed as an unattractive stain on the outside. If the filtered out adhesive hardens, it can form hard edges that could damage the person's clothing under the leather garment or their skin.

[0009] In the case of selecting a relatively soft type of adhesive, the joint between leather and elastic fabric is not very resistant and, in that case, can be released soon. In that case, in the leather layer, new little aesthetic bumps are formed in the areas of greatest movement.

[0010] Based on this context, the invention has been proposed to develop a leather garment material that offers a homogeneous appearance throughout the surface, is very elastic and adapts to body shapes such as the patella or elbow without offering much resistance and that can also be used as a very fine material for light summer garments.

[0011] The invention proposes as a solution (see claim 1) that several seams separated from each other join the leather with the elastic material, the textile material joining the leather only through the seams and being able to separate a small amount of leather in the areas that They are in the center.

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Ana M 'Fernández González TRANSLATOR JURAPA pe GERMAN CI Captain Gaspar Ortiz, 21 TIno. 96 543 59 15 • Mobile: 667 47 80 03201 ELX (Alica ..

[0012] The invention highlights the state of the art by the simultaneous use of three characteristic features: "folds", as well as "separate seams" and "elastic fabric". These three characteristics, already known individually, achieve novel and hitherto unknown properties of the invented composite material, thanks to their ingenious composition unknown to date.

[0013] A first fundamental property of the invention is the folds homogeneously distributed over the leather surface. Normally they are so small that they do not protrude more than three or four millimeters above the surface, but they are large enough to be able to make folds in case of extreme tensile load, similar to an accordion, that is, to form a reserve of additional material with In order to spread the material. Therefore, in areas with high load, such as knees or elbows, material is reserved that allows a relatively comfortable expansion of the same in case of loading, without causing its change to be irreversible. This also reduces considerably, and sometimes even completely eliminates the formation of annoying "bags."

[0014] The numerous small and essentially identical folds it possesses are also known as "wrinkled leather." These appear, for example, by lateral compression of the material. One possibility for its manufacture is the introduction of the leather between two metal surfaces arranged parallel to each other, whose distance is as large as the maximum desired curvature in the folds in front of the adjacent surface parts of the leather. In this bag, the leather is pressed, that is, compressed, by a front edge. The folds that form are particularly very stable when the leather is completely moistened and while the wrinkles are heated. That is why temperatures up to 140 oC are useful.

[0015] The second characteristic feature is the union of the elastic material with the leather by seams. Unlike many other methods of joining between elastic material and leather, sewing has numerous advantages. The resulting bond is durable, has long-term stability and, depending on the quality of the thread used for bonding, it is also resistant to chemical cleaners and moisture, as well as butyric acid from human sweat. This eliminates the problem that the union dissolves after a relatively short period of time due to chemical reactions of the environment or continuous reversal movements.

[0016] Unlike point-shaped joints, such as rivets, the seam joint is distributed along a line, so that the load of the material through the numerous openings to thread the thread only exerts a very small load on the edge of the leather. In addition, thanks to the homogeneous distribution of the forces, it is not necessary to lament star-shaped folds.

[0017] When the linear seams intersect, angled sections are formed, within which "the load of the materials is evenly distributed and, therefore, the optical appearance of the material is evenly distributed across the surface in case of loading Another advantage is that through the seams and their appearance as a line on the surface of the leather, the designer of the garment is offered another creative parameter.

[0018] Another advantage of the arrangement, which should not be underestimated, is the elastic threads of the elastic textile material. Thanks to the large existing number, the load is evenly distributed over the seams and the leather surface. Therefore, uniform seams are required, so that the risk of tearing them is reduced.

[0019] The uniform distribution of forces along the elastic material is also an advantage in terms of the effect of clothing on the skin. Punctual overloads are avoided, for example, in the case of rubber threads.

[0020] Another advantage is the permeability of the air tissue. Since the textile material is attached to the leather only by seams, but you can separate a small amount of leather in the areas that are in the center, if movements of the person wearing it occur, layers of air accumulate between the elastic material and the leather that thereby provide ventilation and, for example, in the case of a relatively high ambient temperature, help to eliminate hot and humid air.

[0021] Thanks to the union of these three advantageous features, this leather composite material, according to the invention, can also be used for very light and narrow garments such as, for example, in women's summer suits. As an example, in narrow-cut skirts, the elastic material functions as a safety brake that avoids exceeding the maximum allowed elasticity limit of the leather material. This reduces the risk of breakage in the skirt when standing, sitting or taking large steps. It is also advantageous that, for example, in a jacket the formation of less favorable bags on the elbows is reduced or eliminated.

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Ana M · Fe; f1ández González IBAPjJCTORA JURAPA DE ALEMÁN CI Captain Gaspar Ortiz, 21 Phone 96 543 59 15 • Mobile: 667 47 60 6

03201 ELX (Alicante) .-., .-

[0022] The function of the elastic material as an anti-breakage insurance allows the use of leather of only 0.25-0.5 mm thickness.

[0023] In an alternative variant embodiment, the joining material according to the invention can also be complemented with a third layer that has been inserted, glued, sewn or otherwise introduced as a "supplement" between the elastic material and the leather. This supplement can be, for example, an additional insulating layer for winter clothing. Another function is the reinforcement of certain areas of the garments, such as the ends of the sleeves or the back of a jacket.

[0024] The supplement can also fulfill many other functions. Therefore, it is conceivable to insert a separator tissue that allows ventilation. When there is a cooling or heating device right on or near the clothes, with a current of air the garment can be cooled or heated through the separator fabric. Supplements with knots or other spacers are also conceived and, therefore, have an effect similar to separating tissue.

[0025] Since a garment is composed, in most cases, of several cuts joined together by a seam, it makes sense to take advantage of this seam to join the piece of leather with the cuts of elastic material. In a variant embodiment of the invention two pieces of leather are sewn adjacent to two pieces of elastic material.

[0026] In addition, the ends of both adjacent leather pieces can be superimposed as the ends of both cuts of the elastic material. Since, in this case, a flange is formed in the material that is twice as thick as the adjacent composite material, the invention proposes that in the seam area the leather pieces are in contact only at the cutting edges . 0, in other words, the leather pieces are "stuck" next to each other. Since the openings of the edge of the leather pieces, through which the seam thread passes, must have a minimum space determined in relation to the edge of the leather piece so that the opening does not tear, it turns out that the thread passes between both openings through two adjacent pieces of leather for a clearly visible length along the surface of the leather.

[0027] For such sewing, several suturing methods are possible. It is interesting the well-known "fur seam", in which the thread is spirally inserted through the opening in the four pieces that must be sewn. In a seam of this type, several sections of short yarn distributed parallel to each other and arranged at an obtuse angle to the edge of the pieces can be seen on the leather surface.

[0028] The invention proposes that the yarn be composed of an elastic material at least in the longitudinal direction so that it can serve as an additional safety reserve upon reaching the elasticity limit of the elastic material. It follows that the elasticity of the yarn must be so high that, under load, the elastic material is stretched first and then the threads that form the seam to join the individual pieces together.

[0029] Such a thread may be composed, for example, of elastic polyester. In another variant, it is composed of several individual threads that by themselves are not very elastic and that by means of knots or other links achieve an elasticity of the entire thread longitudinally.

[0030] As already mentioned several times, an essential feature of the invention is that the leather is "wrinkled." The invention favors that all the folds of the leather surface extend mainly in the same direction. A variant of this type is represented in Figure 1. This structure is produced by compressing the leather from a single edge. Such a leather, wrinkled only in one direction, has the advantage of presenting great elasticity, also in only one direction. In all other directions it is as if the elasticity of the leather had the material itself.

[0031] Naturally, it is also possible for the leather to present folds that point in several directions, substantially different from each other. Thus, it is interesting, for example, that the folds extend mainly only in one of the two directions that intersect. In that case, the leather has the same elasticity in both directions, which is caused by the provisional "divergence" of these wrinkles.

[0032] For those parts of a leather garment that circularly surround the torso or legs or arms, it is advantageous for the folds to extend longitudinally to the corresponding body part. In this way, the folds of a jacket can compensate, for example, for breathing or the fact that your pockets are full. In the legs, when flexing the legs, the increase in volume can be concentrated in the area of the knees. In the sleeves, the "bumps" in the elbow area are compensated by flexing the arms. When a leather garment does not have a firm fit, that is, it is not designed so that there is the shortest possible distance

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Ana M 'Fernálldez González

.,

GERMAN SWORN TRANSLATOR

CI Capitán Gaspar Ortiz, 21 Tfno. 965435915 • Mobile: 6674780 03201 ELX (Alicante

Between the leather clothing and the body surface, this possible expansion of the dimensions when pulling the folds can be perceived as a very comfortable solution.

[0033] In another variant of the embodiment, the elastic material may be provided with a layer that improves the sliding in the part oriented towards the body. When the leather material is used, for example, for a jacket or pants, where in the elongated areas such as the sleeves or the legs the corresponding body parts must slide, it is convenient that they slide in a particularly comfortable way through the material elastic, because in this way the process of dressing and undressing that was previously tedious, is now considerably simpler.

[0034] Further details and features of the invention are explained in more detail below with the help of an example, which should not limit the invention according to the claims, but only describe it. It is shown in a schematic representation:

Figure 1: enlarged section of the sewing area of a leather garment according to the invention.

[0035] In Figure 1 an enlarged cut of a sewing area of a leather garment is shown in perspective. The outer leather layer (1) is recognized as the upper layer on the cutting edges. Several folds (11) can be clearly recognized on the surface and on the cutting edge. Said folds (11) are domed upwards and form, similarly to the two-water roof of a house, an upwardly oriented edge. This edge can be recognized as a clearly highlighted line in the grained leather net (1) of this example. That these folds have only a small curvature on the entire surface of the leather (1), is due to the size of the seam (3) of the center.

[0036] In the large enlargement shown here, the thread (31) that forms the seam (3), with its protruding sections towards the outside of the leather (1), is recognizable as a chain of strongly curved elements and with a more shaped or less circular. In the front area of Figure 1 it can be clearly recognized how the parts of the thread (31) that protrude upward extend towards the inner face of the elastic material (2).

[0037] In Figure 1 it can also be clearly recognized that the thread (31) extends both through the upper layer of leather (1), therefore, through the left piece of leather (12), as well as through the right leather piece (12). The thread (31) extends through the cuts of the elastic material (2) that are under each piece of leather (12).

[0038] The elastic material (2) is recognized by the colored dots at the edges of the cross section. In the area of the seam (3) it is recognized that the elastic material protrudes like a small flange. This flange serves to prevent the threads that form the elastic material (2) from separating.

[0039] In Figure 1 it can be clearly seen on the cutting edge that the surface of the embossed leather (1) has a greater surface area than the layer of elastic material (2) below. If the elastic material (2) extends over its plane, in figure 1 it is understood that the leather layer located thereon and that is not only attached to it by the center of figure 1, but also by the seams that are They extend parallel to the same (not represented here), it would be extended in the same way. For this reason, the roof-shaped folds are separated, curved upwards, so that the leather, first and without any other use than its internal structure, is lengthened only by "stretching" the folds.

[0040] Figure 1 shows very impressively that on the surface of the leather that is arranged outwardly, the folds (11) should not extend strictly parallel to their entire length, but are arranged more or less parallel and they can also have a limited length.

List of reference numbers

[0041]

one

Leather

eleven

Fold in leather 1

12

Leather piece 1

2

Elastic material, attached to leather 1 by seam 3

3

Seam for joining leather 1 and elastic material 2

31

Sewing thread 3

l 'Ana Ma Fe, ¡¡andez González "IBADUCIORA JURAPA D ~ GERMAN CI Captain Gaspar OrtIZ, 21 nr. 96 543 59 15 • Mobile: 667 47 80 86 03201 ELX (Alicante)

Claims (12)

one.

Leather garment with

- an outer layer of leather (1) that is attached to - an inner layer of elastic material (2), which is a textile fabric, where the leather (1) is provided with folds (11) in most of its surface which, more or less, are uniformly distributed over the surface, the leather garment is composed of an outer layer of leather (1) and is characterized in that several seams (3), which are separated from each other, join the leather ( 1) with the elastic material (2), the textile fabric (2) being joined with the leather only by the seams and can be separated from it minimally in the center areas, and because the leather (1) is composed of at least 2 pieces of leather (12) and said pieces of leather (12), in the area of the seam (3), are only in contact by the edges, where the threads (31) are composed of elastic material at least in the longitudinal direction.

2.

Leather garment according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that between the elastic material (2) and the leather (1) there is a third layer as a "supplement" that has been inserted, glued, sewn or otherwise introduced.

3.

Leather garment according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the leather (1) is composed of at least two pieces of leather (12) joined together with the same seam (2) 1 that are joined by the elastic material (2) and leather (1).

Four.

Leather garment according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the seam (3) is composed of a thread (31) that spirally extends through the materials (1, 2) that must be joined.

5.

Leather garment according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the thread is composed of an elastic material at least in the longitudinal direction so that it can serve as an additional safety reserve when reaching the elasticity limit of the elastic material.

6.

Leather garment according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the thread (31) is composed of elastic polyester or of several individual and barely elastic threads that achieve elasticity in the longitudinal direction by means of knots or other joints.

7.

Leather garment according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the folds (11) extend mainly in the same direction.

8.

Leather garment according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the folds (11) extend mainly in one of the two intersecting directions.

9.

Leather garment according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it surrounds the body parts such as the torso, legs or arms in a circular fashion, and the folds

(11) extend in the longitudinal direction of the body part.

10.

Leather garment according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the elastic material (2) is provided with a lining that improves the sliding in the body-oriented part.

eleven.

Leather garment according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the leather (1) has a thickness of approximately between 0.25 mm and 0.5 mm.

12.

Method for the manufacture of a leather garment according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that - in the first step the leather (1) with folds (11) is provided, for example, by compression of the leather surface (1 ) approximately transversely to the folds (11) And - in the second step, pieces (12) of leather (1) and pieces of elastic material (2) of the same size are cut and - in the third step, the pieces of leather (12) and the pieces of elastic material (2) are congruently superimposed on each other, and the pieces of leather (12) and the pieces of elastic material (2) are in contact with each other by their respective edges and - In the fourth step, all the pieces (12, 2) are sewn together by a thread (31) forming a seam (3).

1 Translator's note: original error. The number 2 should be replaced by 3. l ' Ana Ma Fe ;; GERMAN JURY IBADUCTORA CI Captain Gaspar OrtIZ, 21 Phone 96 543 5915 • Mobile: 667478 :::; 0 ... 8 __... 03201 ELX (Alica Method according to claim 13, characterized in that, in the first step, in addition to compressing it, the leather (1) is heated, for example, to a temperature of up to 140 ° C.