RU2536624C2 - Clothes of elastic leather - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: personal use articles.

SUBSTANCE: present invention relates to leather clothes consisting of an outer layer, made of leather (1), attached to an inner layer of an elastic material (2); the leather layer has pleats (11) within a greater part of the surface, which are distributed relatively uniformly across the surface; the leather layer is attached to the elastic material with the help of multiple stitches (3) detached from each other; the elastic material is represented by knitted fabric.

EFFECT: design improvement.

14 cl, 1 dwg

Description

This invention relates to leather clothing, consisting of an outer layer made of leather, which is connected to the inner layer made of elastic material. Animal skin has been used as clothing for people for many millennia. According to the prior art, many methods are known for removing animal skins, cleaning them from wool or fur and tanning them in several stages. If outerwear is made only of leather, then the skin must be at least 1 mm thick in order to have sufficient tensile strength. The disadvantage of this is the fact that then the clothes become relatively heavy and have a relatively low elastic deformation, for example, on the knees and elbows.

In order to increase the elastic deformation of the skin, the patent DD 297764 describes the connection of the skin with rubber fibers or with rubber surfaces. The patent also indicates a method of attaching rubber material to the skin.

The disadvantage of the resulting composite material is that due to the rubber layer and the binder, it has a relatively large weight, as well as the fact that the material follows the shape of the body with a relatively high elasticity, which makes clothes less comfortable to wear.

Another disadvantage is that rubber surfaces absolutely do not let air through, which causes sweating. Therefore, in practice, such a material can only be used together with additional layers to provide at least limited access of air to the body. Therefore, the use of such material for the manufacture of very light clothing, such as summer clothes, is impossible in principle. If the “elastic skin” known to date is made of a fairly light material, then it is collected in ugly folds and bulges. Having a relatively thick layer of rubber surfaces and a relatively very thin leather layer, this material is relatively inelastic, it can bend only with great effort, and it absolutely does not allow air to pass through. As for appearance, this material looks like a “second skin”, as a result of which protruding bones and protruding roundness of the body look not the best way.

Given these prerequisites for creating the invention, the subject of this invention is the development of material for clothing made of leather, which has a uniform appearance, which is very elastic and fits body parts such as knees or elbows, with relatively low strength and which can also be used as very thin material for light summer clothes.

As a solution to the problem, the present invention proposes to fold the skin into folds over a large part of the surface area, and these folds are distributed evenly over the entire surface and are placed at regular intervals with numerous seams, as well as fasten the skin with an elastic material, which is a knitted fabric. Thus, this invention differs from prototypes in that three characteristic features are simultaneously used: “folds”, “seams that are located at a certain distance from each other” and “elastic knitted fabric”.

These three characteristics — each of which is known per se — make it possible, thanks to the hitherto unknown and original combination, to obtain new hitherto unknown qualities of the composite material described in this invention.

The first distinguishing feature of this invention is the folds that are evenly distributed over the surface of the skin. Basically, they are so small that they protrude above the skin surface by no more than three to four millimeters, but they are large enough to stretch like in an accordion with a large tensile load, that is, they provide an additional margin of safety when stretching the material. As a result, in areas that are heavily loaded - such as knees and elbows - the material has a reserve that, when loaded, allows the material to stretch relatively comfortably without irreversible changes. Thus, the formation of ugly “stretch marks” is at least greatly reduced, and usually even eliminated.

Numerous relatively small folds located predominantly in one direction are also known as “creased skin”. They are created, for example, by lateral compression of the material. One of the possible ways to obtain such folds is to place the skin between two metal surfaces that are parallel to each other, while the distance between them should be the same as the maximum required bend of the folds relative to adjacent flat skin areas. The skin is compressed in this cavity from one lateral edge, that is, it is compressed. The resulting creases are very persistent, especially when the skin is completely moisturized and heated when compressed. Suitable temperatures are up to 140 degrees Celsius.

The second distinguishing feature of this invention is the attachment of elastic material to the skin through sutures. Unlike other methods of joining elastic material and leather, the seam has many advantages. The resulting bond is constant and wear-resistant, and if high-quality threads are used, this bond can withstand dry cleaning and moisturizing, as well as the action of butyric acid contained in the sweat of a person. Thus, the problem of weakening this connection after a relatively short period of time as a result of chemical reactions with the environment or constant body movements in different directions is solved.

In contrast to the point fastening - for example, using rivets - the connection with the seam is carried out along the line, so that when the load is distributed on the material, due to the numerous holes for threading the thread, there is much less pressure on the edge of the skin. In addition, due to the uniform distribution of force, star-shaped folds are not formed.

If biconvex seams intersect, angular sections are formed inside which the load on the material is evenly distributed and, therefore, inside which the material has a visually uniform appearance, even under load. An additional advantage is that thanks to the seams and their location along the line, the clothing designer has an additional design parameter.

Another advantage of this compound, which should not be underestimated, are the elastic fibers of an elastic knitted fabric. Due to their large number, the load is evenly distributed on the seams and on the surface of the skin. As a result, the seams have a uniform load, which reduces the risk of tearing.

From the point of view of the effect of clothing on human skin, an even distribution of strength due to the elastic material is an advantage. It is possible to avoid point overloads, as, for example, in the case of rubber fibers.

Another advantage is the breathability of the fabric. Since the textile fabric is tightly attached to the skin only at the seams, and the tissue sections lying between them can slightly separate from the skin, the air layers inside the elastic material that form when wearing clothes and, for example, in the case of relatively high ambient temperatures, help remove hot and humid air.

Due to the combination of these three useful characteristics, the leather composite material described in this invention can also be used to make very light outer clothing that is close to the body, such as women's summer suits. For example, in the case when relatively narrow skirts are sewn, the elastic material has reserve capabilities that allow avoiding exceeding the maximum allowable stretching of the leather material. As a result, the risk of tearing the skirt off when a woman stands up, sits down or takes wide steps is reduced. An advantage is also that, for example, in a jacket from a suit, the formation of ugly “stretches” on the elbows is reduced or eliminated. Therefore, the use of an elastic material to prevent tearing of the fabric allows the use of skin with a thickness of only 0.25 to 0.5 mm.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the composite material described herein may be provided with a third layer, which may be inserted, adhered, stitched or otherwise fixed as an insert between the elastic material and the skin. This insert can be, for example, an additional insulating layer for use in winter clothes. Another insertion function is to make certain areas of clothing more robust, such as the edge of the sleeves or the inside of the suit jacket.

This insert, however, can also perform many other functions. So, you can use burlap as a gasket, which allows ventilation. If the cooling means or heating means is located in or near the garment, the clothes may be cooled or heated by a stream of air passing through the burlap. Inserts having nodules or other disconnectors that have the same effect as burlap can also be used.

Since the garment in most cases consists of many parts that are interconnected by means of seams, it seems possible to use these seams to connect pieces of leather with pieces of elastic material. According to another embodiment of the invention, two adjacent leather parts are sewn to two sections of elastic material.

In addition to the foregoing, the edges of two adjacent leather parts may overlap one another as the edges of two adjacent sections of elastic material. In this case, however, a roller is created on the material, which is two times thicker than the adjacent sections of the composite material, therefore, this invention proposes, as another embodiment of the invention, to connect the skin sections at the seam so that they only touch each other the edges. Or, in other words, the details of the skin are joined by a butt joint. Since the holes along the edges of the leather parts through which the seam thread passes should be located at the minimum possible distance from the edge at which there is no rupture, as a result, between the two holes on the adjacent leather parts, the thread passes over the skin surface in a noticeable way.

There are various ways to make such a seam. It is interesting to use the so-called “glove stitch”, in which the thread spirals through the holes in all four parts that are stitched together. With this stitch, numerous short sections of thread are visible on the skin surface, which are parallel to each other and at an obtuse angle to the edges of the parts.

In the present invention, it is preferable to use a thread consisting, at least in the longitudinal direction, of elastic material, so that when the elastic limit of the elastic material comes, the thread can serve as an additional margin of safety. Therefore, the elasticity of the thread should be such that, under load, the elastic material is first stretched and only then - the threads of the seam connecting adjacent parts to each other.

Such a thread may consist, for example, of polyester. In accordance with another embodiment of the invention, the thread consists of many individual threads, which themselves are almost non-elastic, but which with the help of knots or other loops create the effect of elasticity along the entire longitudinal direction of the thread.

As has been repeatedly mentioned above, an important characteristic feature of the invention is that the skin is “reaped”. In the present invention, it is preferable to arrange all the tabs on the skin surface mainly in approximately one direction. Such an option is shown in Figure 1. The configuration shown is obtained by compressing the skin from only one edge. The advantage of skin compressed in one direction is its particularly high elasticity in only one direction. And in all other directions, skin elasticity is determined by the material itself.

It is also possible to place folds on the skin in several directions, which are significantly different from each other. For example, the case when the folds are located mainly in only two mutually intersecting directions is of interest. In this case, the skin has the same elasticity in both directions, which is achieved by short-term "spreading" of the folds.

For those parts of leather clothing that fit the torso, legs or arms in an annular fashion, the advantage is that the folds are located in the longitudinal direction of the corresponding part of the body. Due to this, the folds on the jacket can contribute, for example, to freedom of breathing or stretching of the pocket when filling it. In trousers, the radius of the circle in the knee area may increase with bending of the legs. In the sleeves, “elongation” on the elbows, which is formed when the arms are bent, decreases. Even if leather clothes are not designed to fit snugly, that is, fit when there is not the slightest distance between the leather clothes and the surface of the body, a possible increase in size due to stretching folds seems nevertheless comfortable.

In accordance with another embodiment of the invention, the elastic material may have, on the side that faces the body, a coating that improves sliding. If leather material is used, for example, for a jacket or trousers, then in these garments elongated parts, such as sleeves and trousers, should slide over the corresponding parts of the body, so if these clothing parts glide especially well thanks to the elastic material, this is an advantage because that dressing and undressing procedures, always considered difficult, are greatly facilitated.

Further details and features of the present invention are explained below in more detail with reference to a sample. It is intended not to limit the invention, but to illustrate it.

In the diagram:

Figure 1 shows a greatly enlarged seam section on leather clothing in accordance with this invention.

Figure 1 graphically shows a greatly enlarged section of leather clothing with a seam. It is given in perspective form. From the edges, the outer layer of leather (1) is visible as the top layer. Numerous folds are clearly visible on the surface and from the edges (11). These folds (11) are curved upward and - like a gable roof of a house - form upward directed ribs. These ridges are clearly visible as through lines on the grained leather layer (1). The fact that these folds rise only slightly above the rest of the surface of the leather layer (1) can be understood from the size of the seam (3) in the center of the figure. Shown here is a greatly enlarged thread (31), which forms a seam (3) with individual sections protruding above the outer leather layer (1), the seam looking like a series of strongly curved, ring-shaped elements. On the front of Figure 1, it is clearly seen that the upwardly projecting portions of the yarn (31) extend on the inside of the elastic material (2).

Figure 1 also clearly shows how the thread (31) passes through the top layer of leather (1), in particular through the left leather part (12) and through the right leather part (12). Then the thread passes through those sections of elastic material (2), which are located under each of the two leather parts (12).

The elastic material (2) in cross section is shown as a strip with dots on the side sections. In the place of the seam (3), it can be seen that the elastic material ends in a small knot. This knot serves to ensure that the textile fibers of which the elastic material (2) is made do not diverge.

In Figure 1, it is clearly seen in section that the granular leather layer (1) has a larger surface than the layer of elastic material (2) located underneath. From Figure 1 it is clear that if the elastic material (2) is stretched in its plane, then the leather layer that lies on top also stretches, and with it not only the leather layer shown in the center of Figure 1, but also one that connects to it, with the help of parallel seams - not shown here - is also stretched. Thus, upward-looking roof ribs, the folds are stretched, so that the skin is first stretched without further affecting the internal structure of the material, and because the folds are aligned.

Figure 1 shows very clearly that on the outer surface of the skin, the folds (11) do not have to be located along the entire length strictly parallel, but they are oriented approximately parallel and can have a limited length. List of reference designations:

1. Leather layer.

11. Crease on the leather layer 1.

12. Part of the detail of the leather layer 1.

2. Elastic material attached to the leather layer with a seam.

3. A seam for fastening a leather layer and elastic material.

31. Seam thread 3.

Claims (14)

1. Leather clothes, including an outer layer of leather (1), which is attached to the inner layer of elastic material (2), characterized in that the leather layer (1) has folds on most of the surface, which are distributed relatively evenly on the surface and with the help of numerous seams (3) spaced from each other, the leather layer (1) is attached to the elastic material (2) and the elastic material is a knitted fabric. 2. Leather clothes according to claim 1, characterized in that the third layer can be inserted, bonded, stitched or secured in another way as an insert between the elastic material (2) and the skin (1). 3. Leather clothes according to claim 1, characterized in that the leather layer (1) consists of at least two parts (12) that are joined together using the same seams (3) that attach the elastic material (2) to the leather layer (1). 4. Leather clothes according to claim 3, characterized in that the leather parts (12) at the seams (3) only touch each other with split edges. 5. Leather clothes according to claim 1, characterized in that the seam (3) is formed by a thread (31), which passes in a spiral through the joined materials (1, 2). 6. Leather clothes according to claim 5, characterized in that the thread (31) consists of a material that is elastic at least in the longitudinal direction. 7. Leather clothes according to claim 5, characterized in that the thread (31) consists of elastic polyester or numerous individual threads, which themselves are almost non-elastic, but which achieve elasticity with knots or other loops in the longitudinal direction of the thread. 8. Leather clothes according to claim 1, characterized in that the folds (11) are located mainly in approximately the same direction. 9. Leather clothes according to claim 1, characterized in that the folds (11) are located mainly in one of two mutually intersecting directions. 10. Leather clothes according to claim 1, characterized in that the details of the clothes surround the torso, legs or arms in an annular manner, with the folds (11) being located in the longitudinal direction of the corresponding part of the body. 11. Leather clothes according to claim 1, characterized in that the elastic material (2) has on the side that faces the body a coating that improves sliding. 12. Leather clothes according to claim 1, characterized in that the leather layer (1) has a thickness of from about 0.25 to 0.5 mm. 13. A method of manufacturing leather clothes according to claim 1, characterized in that at the first stage, folds (11) are made on the leather layer (1), for example, by compressing the surface of the leather layer (1) in a direction approximately perpendicular to the folds (11) , and at the second stage, individual parts (12) are cut out of the leather layer (1) and pieces of elastic material equal in size to them, and at the third stage, parts of leather (12) and of elastic material (2) are superimposed on one another, while the details from leather (12) and from elastic material (2) only touch each other with end faces At the fourth stage, all the details (12.2) are sewn together with each other using a thread that forms a seam (3). 14. The method according to claim 3, characterized in that at the first stage, in addition to compression, the leather layer (1) is additionally heated, for example, to a temperature of approximately 140 ° C.