Classifications

• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
  • C08L—COMPOSITIONS OF MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS
  • C08L53/00—Compositions of block copolymers containing at least one sequence of a polymer obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/90—Block copolymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
  • C08F—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING CARBON-TO-CARBON UNSATURATED BONDS
  • C08F293/00—Macromolecular compounds obtained by polymerisation on to a macromolecule having groups capable of inducing the formation of new polymer chains bound exclusively at one or both ends of the starting macromolecule
  • C08F293/005—Macromolecular compounds obtained by polymerisation on to a macromolecule having groups capable of inducing the formation of new polymer chains bound exclusively at one or both ends of the starting macromolecule using free radical "living" or "controlled" polymerisation, e.g. using a complexing agent
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one block copolymer with particular optical properties and to its application in the treatment of hair, in particular its shaping.
• compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, block copolymers with particular optical properties, it was possible to improve the gloss considerably while retaining the natural appearance of the hair. Furthermore, it has also been found that the use of these compositions makes it possible to have a thicker hair sensation when touched.
• An object of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition
• a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a block copolymer consisting of at least two polymer blocks, each of the polymer blocks having a higher or lower refractive index of at least 0.1 unit of refractive index of the neighboring polymer sequence (s).
• the invention also relates to a method for treating hair.
• Another object of the invention is constituted by a method of shaping the hair.
• the cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one block copolymer consisting of at least two polymer blocks A and B, each of the polymer blocks A having a refractive index higher or lower by at least 0, 1 unit with the refractive index of the neighboring polymer block (s).
• the refractive index is measured on samples, in the form of films, of a polymer constituted by the monomer (s) of a block. This polymer film is formed by coating on a silicon wafer and the refractive index is measured by ellipsometry in phase modulation on a Jobin Yvon device, ⁇ visel DH10.
• the measurement conditions are as follows:
• the apparatus makes it possible to determine the thickness of the oxide layer which may have formed naturally in air on the silicon wafer, the thickness of the polymer and its refractive index for wavelengths from 248 to 827 nm, preferably 400 to 700 nm.
• Each block of the block copolymer is therefore characterized by a refractive index, if n is designated by n A the refractive index of a block A of the block copolymer and by n. B the refractive index of the adjacent block B of the block copolymer, these two indices must satisfy the following condition:
• the number of blocks present in the block copolymer of the invention is greater than or equal to 2, preferably it is equal to 2 or 3.
• the block copolymers which are suitable in the invention are synthesized from the monomers in particular chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, N, N-dimethylacrylamide,. dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized or not, methacrylamide, Nt-butylacrylamide, maleic acid and its half esters, maleic anhydride, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, acrylamide, hydroxylated (meth) acrylates such as hydroxyethyl methacrylate, diallyldimethylammonium chloride, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers such as vinyl methyl ether, maleimides, vinylpyridine, vinylimidazole, other heterocyclic polar vinyl compounds, styrene : sulfonates, allyl alcohols, vinyl alcohols, salts any acids and amines listed above, acrylic acid esters or methacrylic CrCjg alcohols, such as methanol, ethanol, methoxyethanol,
• the above monomers can be polymerized by any polymerization technique known to those skilled in the art, for example, by radical, anionic or cationic polymerization, or by polycondensation.
• controlled radical polymerization is used. This recent technique is notably described in "New Method of Polymer Synthesis", Blackie Académie & Professional, réelle, 1995, volume 2, page 1, or Trends Polym. Sci. 4, page 183 (1996) of CJ Hawker), and in particular, JACS, 117, page 5614 (1995), of Matyjasezwski et al. describes radical polymerization by atom transfer.
• the copolymer thus polymerized which is preferably used in the cosmetic composition of the invention is, an ethyl polystyrene / poly (2-perfluorooctylacrylate).
• the block copolymers according to the invention have a weight-average molar mass, measured by light scattering, of between 10,000 and 500,000 g / mol, and preferably between 20,000 and 200,000 g / mol.
• the proportion of block copolymer (s) is between 0.001 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
• the cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain a cosmetically acceptable medium in which the block copolymer of the invention can be soluble or dispersed.
• This medium comprises water and / or cosmetically acceptable organic solvents.
• cosmetically acceptable medium and solvent means a medium and a solvent compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, nails, hair, eyelashes and eyebrows, lips and any other area of the body and face.
• the organic solvents can represent from 0.5 to 90% of the total weight of the composition. They can be chosen from the group consisting of hydrophilic organic solvents, amphiphilic organic solvents, lipophilic organic solvents and their mixtures.
• hydrophilic organic solvents there may be mentioned, for example, lower mono-alcohols, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol; acetone; polyethylene glycols comprising from 6 to 80 ethyleneoxy units; polyols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol; mono- or di-alkyl-isosorbides whose alkyl groups contain from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as dimethylisosorbide; glycol ethers such as monethyl or monoethyl ether of diethylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers such as methyl ether of dipropylene glycol.
• lower mono-alcohols linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutano
• amphiphilic organic solvents such as derivatives of polypropylene glycol (PPG) such as esters of polypropylene glycol and of fatty acid, ethers of PPG and fatty alcohol, for example, the oleate of PPG- 36 and the oleyl ether of PPG-23.
• PPG polypropylene glycol
• lipophilic organic solvents mention may be made, for example, of hydrocarbons such as hexane, heptane and octane; esters of monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids such as diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, alkyl benzoates, dioctyl malate.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more adjuvants chosen from conventional adjuvants used in cosmetics such as, for example, fillers, pigments, dyes, surfactants, sunscreens, natural waxes or synthetic, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, sequestrants, anti-hair loss agents, anti-dandruff agents, foam stabilizers, propellants, ceramides, vitamins or provitamins, or d other well known cosmetic adjuvants.
• adjuvants chosen from conventional adjuvants used in cosmetics such as, for example, fillers, pigments, dyes, surfactants, sunscreens, natural waxes or synthetic, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, sequestrants, anti-hair loss agents, anti-dandruff agents, foam stabilizers, propellants, ceramides, vitamins or provitamins, or d other well known cosmetic adjuvants.
• compositions according to the invention can be in any suitable form known to those skilled in the art, in particular in the form of solutions of the lotion or serum type; in the form of aqueous or hydroalcoholic gels; in the form of emulsions obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or vice versa (W / O), of more or less thick liquid consistency such as milks and more or less creamy creams.
• These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
• the compositions according to the invention are preferably used as hair products, in particular for maintaining the hairstyle or shaping the hair. They can also give temporary coloring effects to the hair, or else provide protection of the hair against the effects of UN radiation, while providing properties for holding or fixing the hair.
• Hair compositions are preferably shampoos, gels, styling lotions, brushing lotions, fixing and styling compositions such as lacquers or spray.
• Lotions can be packaged in various forms, in particular in vaporizers, pump-dispensers or in aerosol containers in order to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in the form of foam.
• Such forms of packaging are indicated, for example when it is desired to obtain a spray, a foam for fixing or treating the hair.
• the treatment method according to the invention consists in applying the composition to the hair rinsed or not, preferably in the form of a spray, either using a pump bottle or using an aerosol.
• the compositions are preferably used in leave-in mode.
• the method of shaping the hair according to the invention consists in spraying the entire hair with a composition according to the invention, leaving it to act and drying the composition. The hair can then be put into the desired shape, either before application or immediately after.
• the drying time can be variable and depends on the nature of the composition.
• the hair, after combing, has an increased shine and a very pleasant quality of touch.
• composition 1 The polystyrene / poly (ethyl 2-perfluorooctylacrylate) block polymer is prepared from the following reagents:
• the refractive indices, as measured according to the method indicated above, of polystyrene and of poly (2-perfluorooctylacrylate) are respectively 1.59 and 1, 35. The difference between the two refractive indices is much greater than 0.1.
• the monomers are distilled beforehand.
• the initiator, the copper complex and the ligand are mixed, then the monomer 1 is added.
• the mixture is heated under nitrogen to 120 ° C. and then left to react at 120 ° C. for 4 hours by cutting off the nitrogen supply.
• Second step formation of the second block at the end of the polystyrene
• the monomer 2 is then added and the reaction is left to react again for 4 hours at 120 ° C.
• reaction mixture After reaction, the reaction mixture is allowed to cool. A viscous green solution is obtained which is dissolved in. dichloromethane. The polymer solution is passed over alumina neutral and the clear solution obtained is precipitated in a methanol / water mixture (80/20) with a polymer / precipitant ratio of 1/5.
• 96 g of polymer are obtained in the form of a viscous product, which corresponds to a yield of 96%.
• the product is characterized by gel permeation chromatography (CPG) in tetrahydrofuran (THF), with an equivalent of linear polystyrene. The detection is done by light scattering.
• CPG gel permeation chromatography
• THF tetrahydrofuran
• the detection is done by light scattering.
• the block copolymer has a weight-average molar mass of 115,000 g / mol and the polydispersity index is equal to 1.6.
• the copolymer thus obtained is soluble in ethyl acetate and composition 1 is prepared by introducing into ethyl acetate 5% by weight of the block copolymer obtained, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• Composition 1 is applied at a rate of 1 g for a lock of 2.5 g of natural European brown hair.
• the hair is left to dry in the open air and, with respect to the untreated hair, there is a markedly improved shine.
• the hair is soft and has body to the touch.
• the strands of treated hair are tested by a jury and the results are collated in Table 1 below.
• composition A Composition A
• the polystyrene / poly (ethylene / butylene) block polymer available from the company Shell under the trade name Kraton G1701 is used. This copolymer has 37% styrene and 63% ethylene / butylene.
• Polystyrene has a refractive index of 1.59 while poly (ethylene / butylene) has a refractive index of 1.5.
• Composition A is prepared by introducing 5% by weight of the polymer into ethyl acetate, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• Composition A is applied at a rate of 1 g for a lock of 2.5 g of natural European brown hair.
• Composition B is prepared from the following components:
• This composition is then applied at a rate of 1 g for a lock of 2.5 g of natural European brown hair.
• the locks treated with composition 1 have significantly better cosmetic characteristics than those of locks treated with compositions A and B.
• the hair treated with composition 1 does not exhibit this phenomenon at all. Hair has no tendency to stick to each other. We also note for composition 1, compared to untreated hair, a markedly improved shine. The hair treated with composition 1 is also soft and has body to the touch.

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• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
• Public Health (AREA)
• Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
• General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
• Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
• Polymers & Plastics (AREA)
• Organic Chemistry (AREA)
• Birds (AREA)
• Epidemiology (AREA)
• Cosmetics (AREA)
• Graft Or Block Polymers (AREA)

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• 2000
  • 2000-07-18 FR FR0009405A patent/FR2811885B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2001
  • 2001-07-11 US US10/333,228 patent/US20040052752A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2001-07-11 EP EP01955403A patent/EP1301161A1/fr not_active Withdrawn
  • 2001-07-11 JP JP2002511699A patent/JP2004503576A/ja active Pending
  • 2001-07-11 WO PCT/FR2001/002244 patent/WO2002005765A1/fr not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2001-07-11 AU AU2001277574A patent/AU2001277574A1/en not_active Abandoned

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