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EP0477525B1 - Fil à broder temporairement non élastique, procédé pour sa fabrication et son utilisation - Google Patents

Fil à broder temporairement non élastique, procédé pour sa fabrication et son utilisation Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0477525B1
EP0477525B1 EP91113730A EP91113730A EP0477525B1 EP 0477525 B1 EP0477525 B1 EP 0477525B1 EP 91113730 A EP91113730 A EP 91113730A EP 91113730 A EP91113730 A EP 91113730A EP 0477525 B1 EP0477525 B1 EP 0477525B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
yarn
covering
soluble
covered
embroidery
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP91113730A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP0477525A1 (fr
Inventor
Richard Dipl.-Ing. Klaus
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
GVW Garnveredlungswerke GmbH
Original Assignee
GVW Garnveredlungswerke GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by GVW Garnveredlungswerke GmbH filed Critical GVW Garnveredlungswerke GmbH
Publication of EP0477525A1 publication Critical patent/EP0477525A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0477525B1 publication Critical patent/EP0477525B1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/322—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic using hollow spindles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/328—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/40—Yarns in which fibres are united by adhesives; Impregnated yarns or threads
    • D02G3/404—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions
    • D02G3/406—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions where the polymeric solution is removable at a later stage, e.g. by washing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/327—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof
    • D06M15/333—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof of vinyl acetate; Polyvinylalcohol
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/06—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated alcohols, e.g. polyvinyl alcohol, or of their acetals or ketals
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/02—Moisture-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/024—Moisture-responsive characteristics soluble

Definitions

  • the invention relates to temporarily inelastic combination embroidery threads based on practically undrawn, highly elastic core filament threads (e.g. based on elastane), wound with an inner enveloping thread made of soluble threads (e.g. PVA hot water soluble) and an outer covering thread made of textile threads or threads (on Basis of continuous filaments or fiber yarns made of eg viscose, polyamides or polyesters) according to the preamble of claim 1, a process for their production and their use.
  • highly elastic core filament threads e.g. based on elastane
  • an inner enveloping thread made of soluble threads (e.g. PVA hot water soluble)
  • an outer covering thread made of textile threads or threads (on Basis of continuous filaments or fiber yarns made of eg viscose, polyamides or polyesters) according to the preamble of claim 1, a process for their production and their use.
  • Such a temporarily inelastic combination thread is used as embroidery thread for embroidery application (ornaments / patterns) on elastic base fabrics / knitted fabrics with subsequent removal of the soluble inner sheath thread (e.g. PVA) with the release of a certain elastic mobility of the embroidery thread, which after this removal (e.g. in aqueous finishing process) has such a stretch that the embroidery applications can follow the elastic strains of the base fabric / knitted fabric.
  • the soluble inner sheath thread e.g. PVA
  • Elastans or rubber threads are often incorporated to produce elastic textiles. In the case of knitted fabrics, it is technically possible to process these yarns naked. In other techniques such as Weaving, their elasticity must be limited to process these elastic threads.
  • combination yarns are made that consist of the elastic core and one or more envelope yarn components. Such combination yarns are preferably produced by wrapping the sheath threads around the pre-stretched elastane thread. Wrapping machines with hollow spindle devices are used. One or two-stage wrapping yarns with different properties can be produced.
  • the elastic extensibility desired in textile fabrics is produced by keeping the elastic thread under high elongation (100 to 600% elongation) in the process of winding. The elasticity is triggered by a recess or shrinking process after the fabric has been manufactured.
  • the elastic thread core e.g. elastane filament thread
  • the desired elastic extensibility of the articles produced therefrom is predominantly achieved by the elastic recess process in the fabric.
  • a generic composite yarn is known from the French laid-open specification FR-A-2 631 636, consisting of an elastic core thread and sheath thread or fibers, which can be removed in a post-treatment.
  • the wrapping threads serve as processing aids for the knitting.
  • the elastic soul remains, which gives the knitted fabric its elastic properties.
  • the disadvantage in such a composite yarn that the elastic core thread lies bare after removal of the covering threads and thus gives the knitted fabric an unsightly appearance and a poor textile handle.
  • a yarn according to claim 1 is proposed; furthermore a method according to claim 7 and a use according to claim 9.
  • the extensibility is not produced by jumping in the combination yarn in question with a pre-stretched core (soul) thread, but is based exclusively on the interaction of the spiral-shaped, outer winding component and the volume of the soluble thread of the inner winding that is released when it is removed.
  • a combination thread with a limited elasticity is achieved. Sufficiently good and permanent elasticity is guaranteed by the highly elastic core thread (core thread), for example based on elastane.
  • the properties of the yarn according to the invention are described quantitatively as follows: After its manufacture, the 3-component yarn has an extensibility of ⁇ 5%, preferably ⁇ 3%, particularly cheap but ⁇ 1%, in accordance with the test specification.
  • the combination thread jumps in only by the amount of its substance shrinkage (substance loss) (possibly including substance shrinkage of the other two components).
  • This substance shrinkage should preferably be ⁇ 10%, but in no case should it be> 20%.
  • the elastic total extensibility starting from the test length reached by the material shrinkage to the unclamped state, can be set between 0.1 and approx. 100% depending on the number of turns of the outer and inner wrapping and the volume of the inner turn that has become free. However, it may be sufficient or advantageous to limit the elastic elongation to 10 to 40%, preferably 20 to 30%.
  • Soluble filaments or yarns preferably hot water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol threads or in alcohols, are used as the inner, soluble sheath thread (B).
  • Ketones, esters or hydrocarbon-soluble threads made of, for example, modacrylene or the like are used.
  • water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol threads are preferred, which can be dissolved out in the aqueous finishing baths.
  • Their titers are from about 50 to 300 dtex, preferably from about 100 to 300 dtex.
  • the outer, non-soluble textile sheath threads (C) are threads (including yarns) made of, for example, polyamides, polyesters, cellulose, preferably viscose and polyamides. Their titers are from 10 to 200 dtex, preferably from 50 to 200 dtex.
  • the combination embroidery thread according to the invention is produced as follows: (see FIG. 1).
  • the elastic core thread (A) is fed into the process of a crosswise (2-stage) winding with virtually no stretching. Either the thread is fed in a rolling manner (item 1) or the thread is pulled off the bobbin overhead, without any additional stretching set (item 1 ').
  • the total stretch of the elastic thread in the hollow spindle should be ⁇ 10% and should only be given by the inevitable thread pull tension from the bobbin.
  • the disc reel 2 sits with the supply of soluble yarn (B), which is the first sheath component to be wound in an S-turn around the elastic core.
  • B soluble yarn
  • the number of turns to be applied can be from 300 to 2,000 turns / m. With the height of this number of turns, the extensibility to be achieved after removing this component can be influenced.
  • the titer of this soluble component is said to be many times coarser than the titer of the elastic soul. The titer is preferably more than three times greater.
  • This first stage winding thread passes through a second hollow spindle with the disk bobbin 3, which carries the supply of the textile covering thread (C).
  • the second hollow spindle runs in Z-rotation and thus in the opposite direction to the first winding stage.
  • the combination yarn is made essentially twist-neutral and, in addition, the extensibility of the combination yarn after the soluble component has been removed is influenced even more than in the first stage. It applies here that the extensibility to be achieved increases with increasing number of turns.
  • the 3-component yarn (D) is drawn off from the delivery unit 4, which determines the throughput speed of the yarn through both hollow spindles.
  • the necessary number of turns in both stages are regulated via appropriate spindle speeds.
  • the 3-component yarn is fed to take-up point 5 and wound into a finished bobbin.
  • the gloss can be largely obtained if the enveloping yarn has previously been twisted in a separate process against the direction of winding to be applied.
  • the decisive factor here is that the number of twists with the number of turns largely cancel each other out, so that the filament bandage in the combination yarn is virtually parallel (untwisted) and retains its full shine.
  • the yarns according to the invention can be used for applications on elastic basic goods (elastic grommet / woven goods, for example for corsetry). While embroidery applications from conventional inelastic embroidery threads permanently and disruptively blocked the elastic extensibility of the base in the expansion area of the application, it is possible with the temporarily inelastic embroidery threads according to the invention to produce completely new types of embroidery goods are also elastically stretchable in the area of the embroidery pattern. They are used in embroidery designs on elastic corsetry or elastic textiles.
  • Example 4 Yarn setting ( pre-twisting of the viscose twine in accordance with the twist turns)

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Automatic Embroidering For Embroidered Or Tufted Products (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Claims (9)

  1. Fil guipé, composé de
       un fil d'âme très élastique (A),
       un fil gainant soluble non élastique interne (B),
       et un fil gainant textile insoluble externe (C),
       le fil guipé étant tout d'abord non élastique et le fil d'âme très élastique
       (A) étant guipé à l'état pratiquement non étiré,
    caractérisé en ce que le fil guipé présente une extensibilité inférieure à 5 %, de préférence inférieure à 3 % et notamment inférieure à 1 %, que le fil d'âme très élastique est guipé de façon croisée et que le fil guipé après dissolution du fil gainant interne soluble (B) ne présente pas de reprise élastique supérieure à l'ampleur du retrait de la matière atteignant au maximum 20 %, de préférence 10 % et présente après dissolution du fil gainant soluble interne (B) une élasticité comprise entre 0,1 et 100 %, de préférence entre 10 et 40 %, plus particulièrement entre 20 et 30 %.
  2. Fil guipé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que le nombre de spires du fil gainant textile externe (C) est adapté à celui du fil gainant soluble interne (B) de telle sorte qu'on obtient un fil total pratiquement exempt de torsions.
  3. Fil guipé selon les revendications 1 et 2, caractérisé en ce qu'on utilise comme fil gainant externe (C) un fil textile très brillant.
  4. Fil guipé selon les revendications 1 à 3, caractérisé en ce qu'en dépit de la torsion de retordage nécessairement appliquée l'éclat du fil gainant externe (C) utilisé n'est pas brisé et que ce fil auxiliaire externe est préretordu dans le sens contraire à celui de la fabrication du fil guipé à la même vitesse de rotation et qu'on dispose d'un fil gainant (C) dont les différents filaments sont pratiquement parallèles.
  5. Fil guipé selon les revendications 1 à 4, caractérisé en ce qu'on utilise comme fil gainant interne (B) un fil de poly(alcool vinylique) soluble dans l'eau chaude.
  6. Fil guipé selon les revendications 1 à 5, caractérisé en ce qu'on utilise comme fil gainant externe (C) des filaments ou des fils de fibres en viscose, polyamide ou polyester.
  7. Procédé de fabrication d'un fil guipé selon les revendications 1 à 6, caractérisé en ce que le fil d'âme élastique (A) est acheminé pratiquement en l'absence d'étirage dans le processus de guipage croisé en deux étapes utilisant deux fils gainants (B, C), le fil d'âme (A) étant guipé à l'aide du premier fil gainant soluble non élastique (B) en torsion S ou torsion Z sur une broche (2), puis guipé sur une seconde broche (3), tournant dans le sens contraire à la broche (2), d'un second fil gainant textile insoluble (C) en torsion Z ou S, que le fil guipé fini (D) est dévidé du dispositif de sortie (4) et acheminé au poste de bobinage (5).
  8. Procédé de fabrication d'un fil selon la revendication 7, caractérisé en ce que le fil gainant externe (C) est préretordu avant le procédé de traitement de la fabrication du fil guipé dans la direction contraire, à une vitesse de rotation identique à celle du guipage.
  9. Utilisation du fil guipé selon les revendications 1 à 6, comme fil à broder sur des tissus de base ou tricots élastiques.
EP91113730A 1990-08-29 1991-08-16 Fil à broder temporairement non élastique, procédé pour sa fabrication et son utilisation Expired - Lifetime EP0477525B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE4027279A DE4027279A1 (de) 1990-08-29 1990-08-29 Temporaer unelastische kombinations-stickgarne, verfahren zu ihrer herstellung und ihre verwendung
DE4027279 1990-08-29

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0477525A1 EP0477525A1 (fr) 1992-04-01
EP0477525B1 true EP0477525B1 (fr) 1994-10-19

Family

ID=6413132

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP91113730A Expired - Lifetime EP0477525B1 (fr) 1990-08-29 1991-08-16 Fil à broder temporairement non élastique, procédé pour sa fabrication et son utilisation

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0477525B1 (fr)
AT (1) ATE113082T1 (fr)
DE (2) DE4027279A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE19755788C2 (de) * 1997-12-16 2001-11-29 Titv Greiz Verfahren zur Herstellung elastischer Luftspitzenerzeugnisse
AU2000270110A1 (en) * 2000-08-10 2002-02-18 Dollfus Mieg And Cie - Dmc Yarn with central core and use thereof
IL142252A0 (en) * 2001-03-26 2002-03-10 Polgat Textiles Co 1960 Ltd Novel process for the manufacture of super fine woven wool fabric with single yarn in the warp having improved weavability
FR2829510B1 (fr) * 2001-09-13 2004-03-19 Dim Sa Fil bi-composant et article a couture utilisant ce fil
AT411365B (de) * 2002-03-07 2003-12-29 Wolford Ag Hochelastisches gestrick
US20050124245A1 (en) * 2003-12-03 2005-06-09 Tianyi Liao Size-covered composite yarns and method for making same
CA2841643A1 (fr) * 2011-07-15 2013-01-24 Tamicare Ltd. Procede et appareil pour contraindre temporairement un tissu non tisse etirable
CN103255527A (zh) * 2013-05-23 2013-08-21 南通双弘纺织有限公司 一种超柔高导湿聚酯纱线的纺纱方法
DE102013107660A1 (de) * 2013-07-18 2015-01-22 Ofa Bamberg Gmbh Elastischer Faden mit Wollfäden als Bestandteil der Umwindung
CN103938321A (zh) * 2014-05-04 2014-07-23 苏州市叶绣工艺厂 一种刺绣用高性能染色绣花线
EP3626873A1 (fr) * 2018-09-20 2020-03-25 Kam Cheung Koo Fil extensible creux

Family Cites Families (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3492707A (en) * 1967-02-16 1970-02-03 Kuraray Co Method of producing elastic fabrics
FR2631636A1 (fr) * 1988-05-20 1989-11-24 Verel De Belval Tissages Fil complexe comportant une ame de fil elastique assemblee a des fils ou files de fibres et son procede de fabrication

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP0477525A1 (fr) 1992-04-01
DE4027279A1 (de) 1992-03-05
DE59103278D1 (de) 1994-11-24
ATE113082T1 (de) 1994-11-15

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