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CN118354749A - Kit and method for treating skin - Google Patents

Kit and method for treating skin Download PDF

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Publication number
CN118354749A
CN118354749A CN202280079614.6A CN202280079614A CN118354749A CN 118354749 A CN118354749 A CN 118354749A CN 202280079614 A CN202280079614 A CN 202280079614A CN 118354749 A CN118354749 A CN 118354749A
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China
Prior art keywords
water
peg
oil
cosmetic composition
composition
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CN202280079614.6A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
J·J·法伊
王秀霞
马驰
S·哈尔彭切尔奇
A·加尔迪
N·常
Y·J·尹
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Priority claimed from PCT/US2022/051049 external-priority patent/WO2023101902A1/en
Publication of CN118354749A publication Critical patent/CN118354749A/en
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Abstract

The present disclosure relates to a kit comprising two or more separately contained cosmetic compositions that are miscible with each other when mixed, wherein the two or more cosmetic compositions have: (a) A viscosity of at least 1,800cps or a storage modulus (G') greater than the loss modulus (G ") for viscosities lower than 1,800 cps; and (b) a maximum yield stress of 9,000 Pa; and wherein the two or more cosmetic compositions are selected from: (i) an oil-in-water emulsion; (ii) a water-in-silicone emulsion; and (iii) an anhydrous emulsion. Also disclosed are methods of treating skin with the kit and/or the cosmetic composition.

Description

Kit and method for treating skin
Cross Reference to Related Applications
The application claims the benefit of U.S. patent application Ser. No. 63/284,239, filed 11/30/2021, and the benefit of French patent application Ser. No. FR 2200833, filed 1/31/2022, which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.
FIELD OF THE DISCLOSURE
The present disclosure relates to a kit comprising two or more separately contained cosmetic compositions that are miscible with each other when mixed, and to a method of treating skin using the kit and/or the two or more cosmetic compositions.
Disclosure of Invention
The present disclosure relates, inter alia, to kits comprising two or more separately contained cosmetic compositions, and methods of treating skin using the kits and/or the cosmetic compositions. Cosmetic compositions comprising surprisingly high amounts of various active agents are stable and miscible with each other. Active agents provide numerous cosmetic benefits to the skin, but historically are difficult to dissolve and stabilize, especially at high levels. It is also challenging to develop cosmetic compositions with different active agents that are miscible with each other. In general, a cosmetic composition that stabilizes and/or dissolves a particular active agent is not homogeneously mixed with another cosmetic composition that stabilizes and/or dissolves a different active agent, especially when the cosmetic composition is of a different constitution. The mixing of disparate cosmetic compositions typically results in visual coagulation, separation of components or phases (e.g., oil, water, silicone, etc.), precipitation of ingredients including active agents, and the like.
In one aspect, the present disclosure relates, inter alia, to a kit comprising two or more individually contained cosmetic compositions that are miscible with each other when mixed, wherein each of the two or more compositions comprises:
(a) A viscosity of at least 1,800cps or a storage modulus (G') greater than the loss modulus (G ") for viscosities lower than 1,800 cps; and
(B) A maximum yield stress of 9,000Pa, e.g., a maximum yield stress of less than 7,500Pa, less than 5,000Pa, less than 2,500Pa, less than 2,000Pa, less than 1,500Pa, or less than 1,250 Pa;
Wherein the two or more cosmetic compositions are selected from:
(i) An oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least 40 wt% water and from about 1 to about 20wt% oil phase, based on the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion;
(ii) A water-in-silicone emulsion comprising at least 70 wt% of an aqueous phase (internal phase) based on the total weight of the silicone emulsion; and
(Iii) An anhydrous composition, wherein at least 90% by weight of the ingredients forming the anhydrous composition have a log P value of 2 or less, e.g., 1.5 or less, 1 or less, 0.75 or less, 0.5 or less, 0.25 or less, or 0.
In one aspect, the present disclosure relates, inter alia, to a method for treating skin, the method comprising:
(A) Mixing two or more cosmetic compositions that are miscible with each other when mixed, wherein each of the two or more compositions comprises:
(a) A viscosity of at least 1,800cps or a storage modulus (G') greater than the loss modulus (G ") for viscosities lower than 1,800 cps; and
(B) A maximum yield stress of 9,000Pa, e.g., a maximum yield stress of less than 7,500Pa, less than 5,000Pa, less than 2,500Pa, less than 2,000Pa, less than 1,500Pa, or less than 1,250 Pa; and
Wherein the two or more cosmetic compositions are selected from:
(i) An oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least 40 wt% water and from about 1 to about 20wt% oil phase, based on the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion;
(ii) A water-in-silicone emulsion comprising at least 70 wt% of an aqueous phase (internal phase) based on the total weight of the silicone emulsion; and
(Iii) An anhydrous composition, wherein at least 90% by weight of the ingredients forming the anhydrous composition have a log P value of 2 or less, e.g., 1.5 or less, 1 or less, 0.75 or less, 0.5 or less, 0.25 or less, or 0; and
(B) The mixture is applied to the skin.
In certain embodiments, at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions is an oil-in-water emulsion, such as the oil-in-water emulsions described herein.
In certain embodiments, at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions is a water-in-silicone emulsion, such as the water-in-silicone emulsions described herein.
In certain embodiments, at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions is an anhydrous composition, such as the anhydrous compositions described herein.
Non-limiting examples of active agents that may be included in the cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion include retinol, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, trifluoromethylphenyl valyl glycine, ceramides (e.g., ceramide-NP), madecassoside, and mixtures thereof.
Non-limiting examples of active agents that may be included in the cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion include hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, madecassoside, glycerin and mixtures thereof
Non-limiting examples of active agents that may be included in the anhydrous cosmetic composition include ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, glycerin, polygonum cuspidatum root extract, and mixtures thereof.
In certain embodiments, the kit is an apparatus for independently dispensing a specified amount of each of two or more cosmetic compositions, wherein the apparatus comprises a dispensing assembly configured to receive a plurality of cartridges and a receiving area, wherein the two or more cosmetic compositions are separately contained in the plurality of cartridges, each of the two or more cosmetic compositions being dispensed into the receiving area. In one embodiment, each of the plurality of cartridges contains a different cosmetic composition. In another embodiment, the device further comprises a memory configured to receive and store dispensing information comprising a specified amount of cosmetic composition to be dispensed from each cartridge; and circuitry configured to obtain the dispensing information from the memory and control the dispensing assembly to dispense a specified amount of the cosmetic composition from each of the cartridges. Optionally, the receiving portion of the device is configured as part of a detachable portion of the device, and the detachable portion is configured as a closed container containing one or more of the dispensed cosmetic compositions.
In one embodiment, the method improves elasticity of the skin of the face or body, promotes hyaluronic acid production, collagen synthesis, synthesis of epidermal structural components, regeneration of damaged tissue, and reduces aging effects.
In certain embodiments, the method comprises enhancing or improving the natural lipid barrier of the skin; treating dry and/or aged skin; maintaining and/or improving the moisture balance of the skin; and/or improve the overall appearance of the skin.
In certain embodiments, particularly when at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions comprises hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, the method reduces fine lines and wrinkles, improves hyaluronic acid production by stimulating glycosaminoglycan (GAG) synthesis, softens the stratum corneum to relieve cumulative stress on the epidermis and dermis, and the like.
In certain embodiments, particularly when at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions comprises retinol, the methods promote collagen and/or elastin production, reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone, tighten the skin, prevent and/or treat acne, reduce the development of melanin, and improve and lighten skin tone.
In certain embodiments, particularly when at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions comprises a ceramide (e.g., ceramide-NP), the method hydrates the skin and maintains the moisture balance of the skin, reducing/reducing itching, chronic dryness, scaling and flaking. These methods can also be used to enhance the natural lipid barrier of skin, which helps treat dry and aged skin.
In certain embodiments, particularly when at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions comprises 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, the method reduces skin irritation, eases skin, and/or reduces or mitigates stinging, burning, and tightening.
In certain embodiments, particularly when at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions comprises acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valyl glycine, the method improves elasticity, promotes hyaluronic acid production, collagen synthesis, synthesis of epidermal structural components, regeneration of damaged tissue, and reduces aging effects on the skin of the face or body.
Other features and iterations of the present invention are described in more detail below.
Description of the invention
A common problem associated with cosmetic compositions, especially compositions comprising various components, is ensuring physical stability, chemical stability, solubility, etc. over the lifetime of the cosmetic product. Many active agents are difficult to stabilize and solubilize, especially when used in high amounts. The consequences of stability and solubility problems are severe. For example, stability problems can result in partial, if not complete, loss of product integrity, color loss, malodor, viscosity changes, and the like. Stability and solubility problems can lead to an increase or decrease in the amount of the component to be applied. With respect to active ingredients, stability and solubility issues reduce or eliminate activity and prevent the active ingredient from reaching its intended target in the desired amounts.
With aging, even if the number of cell layers remains unchanged, the outer skin layer (epidermis) becomes thin. However, the number of pigment-containing cells (melanocytes) is reduced. Thus, the skin looks pale and translucent. Large pigment spots (age spots, liver spots or freckles) can occur in the sun-exposed areas. The change in connective tissue reduces the strength and elasticity of the skin. This is known as elastosis. Is more pronounced in the areas exposed to sunlight (ocular elastosis). Elastosis creates a rough, weather-affected appearance that is common to farmers, crews, and others spending a lot of time outdoors. Dehydration increases the risk of skin damage. Malnutrition can also have a negative impact on the skin, causing dryness, rash and edema.
The human skin acts as the primary barrier between the body and its environment. Essential for this skin barrier function is the lipid matrix in the outermost layer of the skin (epidermis), the Stratum Corneum (SC). Its two functions are (1) to prevent excessive moisture loss through the epidermis and (2) to avoid penetration of compounds from the environment into the viable epidermis and dermis layers, thereby eliciting an immune response. The composition of SC lipid matrices is mainly controlled by three lipid types: cholesterol, free fatty acids and ceramides. These lipids employ a highly ordered 3-dimensional structure of stacked, densely packed lipid layers (LIPID LAYERS) (lipid layers, LIPID LAMELLAE): lateral and lamellar lipid organization. The manner in which these lipids are ordered depends on the composition of the lipids. A very common skin disorder in which SC lipid barriers are affected is Atopic Dermatitis (AD).
There is a need for compositions containing high amounts of active agents that treat, nourish and improve the appearance of skin, which are stable and compatible with each other. The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure meet these needs. Although the compositions of the present disclosure include a significant amount of one or more active agents, they are surprisingly stable. Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions are surprisingly compatible with each other, i.e. they are miscible with each other. The various cosmetic compositions may be mixed with one another to form a uniform and aesthetically pleasing mixture for application to the skin. Different active agents provide different benefits to the skin. The various cosmetic compositions described herein (containing a plurality of different active agents) can be selected and mixed with one another to produce a unique mixture that meets the specific needs of the individual consumer's skin. In other words, cosmetic compositions containing the desired active agent may be selected and mixed to provide a "consumer-specific" mixture containing multiple active agents suitable for the individual consumer's skin type.
In one embodiment, the kit of the present disclosure comprises two or more separately housed cosmetic compositions that are miscible with each other when mixed, wherein each of the two or more compositions comprises:
(a) A viscosity of at least 1,800cps or a storage modulus (G') greater than the loss modulus (G ") for viscosities lower than 1,800 cps; and
(B) A maximum yield stress of 9,000Pa, e.g., a maximum yield stress of less than 7,500Pa, less than 5,000Pa, less than 2,500Pa, less than 2,000Pa, less than 1,500Pa, or less than 1,250 Pa; and
Wherein the two or more cosmetic compositions are selected from:
(i) An oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least 40 wt% water and from about 1 to about 20wt% oil phase, based on the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion;
(ii) A water-in-silicone emulsion comprising at least 70 wt% of an aqueous phase (internal phase) based on the total weight of the silicone emulsion; and
(Iii) An anhydrous composition, wherein at least 90% by weight of the ingredients forming the anhydrous composition have a log P value of 2 or less, e.g., 1.5 or less, 1 or less, 0.75 or less, 0.5 or less, 0.25 or less, or 0.
In one embodiment, the method of the present disclosure comprises:
(A) Mixing two or more cosmetic compositions that are miscible with each other when mixed, wherein each of the two or more compositions comprises:
(a) A viscosity of at least 1,800cps or a storage modulus (G') greater than the loss modulus (G ") for viscosities lower than 1,800 cps; and
(B) A maximum yield stress of 9,000Pa, e.g., a maximum yield stress of less than 7,500Pa, less than 5,000Pa, less than 2,500Pa, less than 2,000Pa, less than 1,500Pa, or less than 1,250 Pa; and
Wherein the two or more cosmetic compositions are selected from:
(i) An oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least 40 wt% water and from about 1 to about 20wt% oil phase, based on the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion;
(ii) A water-in-silicone emulsion comprising at least 70 wt% of an aqueous phase (internal phase) based on the total weight of the silicone emulsion; and
(Iii) An anhydrous composition, wherein at least 90% by weight of the ingredients forming the anhydrous composition have a log P value of 2 or less, e.g., 1.5 or less, 1 or less, 0.75 or less, 0.5 or less, 0.25 or less, or 0; and
(B) The mixture is applied to the skin.
The viscoelastic properties of a material are generally defined by two characteristic values: (1) Storage modulus, which represents the elastic behavior of a material for a given frequency, typically written as G'; and (2) loss modulus, which represents the viscous behavior of a material for a given frequency, typically written as G ". These amounts are defined, for example, in the following: "Handbook of Pressure SENSITIVE ADHESIVE Technology" 3 rd edition, D.Satas, chap.9, pp.155-157, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. Viscoelasticity can be determined using rheology, for example, using a DHR-2 rheometer (TA Instruments, NEW CASTLE, delaware, USA) at 20 ℃. These rheological measurements were performed using a2 ° conical plate (diameter=40 mm). Strain sweep was performed from 0.01% to 1000% strain at a fixed frequency ω=1 rad/s.
In certain embodiments, at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions is an oil-in-water emulsion. In further embodiments, at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions is an oil-in-water emulsion and at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions is a water-in-silicone emulsion of an anhydrous composition.
In certain embodiments, at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions is a water-in-silicone emulsion. In further embodiments, at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions is a water-in-silicone emulsion and at least one of the cosmetic compositions is an oil-in-water emulsion or an anhydrous composition.
In certain embodiments, at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions is an anhydrous composition. In further embodiments, at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions is an anhydrous composition and at least one of the two or more compositions is an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-silicone emulsion.
In certain embodiments, the kits and methods employ three or more separately housed cosmetic compositions that are miscible with each other when mixed. In a preferred embodiment, at least one of the three or more cosmetic compositions is in a form that is different from another form of another of the three or more cosmetic compositions. In other words, not all three or more compositions are oil-in-water emulsions; or not all three or more compositions are water-in-silicone emulsions; or not all three or more of the compositions may be anhydrous.
In embodiments wherein at least one of the cosmetic compositions is an oil-in-water emulsion, the oil-in-water emulsion comprises retinol, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, trifluoromethylphenyl valyl glycine, ceramide, or mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsion comprises hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol. In one embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsion comprises 4-t-butylcyclohexanol. In one embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsion comprises both hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol and 4-t-butylcyclohexanol. In one embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsion comprises trifluoromethylphenyl valyl glycine. In one embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsion comprises a ceramide, preferably a ceramide-NP.
In embodiments wherein at least one of the cosmetic compositions is a water-in-silicone emulsion, the water-in-silicone emulsion comprises hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol.
In embodiments wherein at least one of the cosmetic compositions is an anhydrous composition, the anhydrous composition comprises ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, or a mixture thereof. In one embodiment, the anhydrous composition comprises ascorbic acid. In one embodiment, the anhydrous composition comprises ferulic acid. In one embodiment, the anhydrous composition comprises both ascorbic acid and ferulic acid.
The term "kit" refers to a combination of parts, compositions and/or packages, which may be in the form of a kit of parts, a device, a packaged product, etc. The kit of the present disclosure comprises two or more separately contained cosmetic compositions that are miscible with each other when mixed. In one embodiment, the kit may be a packaged product, wherein the package comprises two or more separate containers or bottles, each containing a different cosmetic composition. In another embodiment, two or more separately contained cosmetic compositions may be contained in a single container or bottle having two or more different chambers for separately containing each cosmetic composition.
In another embodiment, the kit is a device, e.g., a device that separately holds two or more cosmetic compositions, e.g., in two or more cartridges within the device; and two or more cosmetic compositions are dispensed independently. For example, the device may include a dispensing assembly configured to receive a plurality of cartridges in which two or more cosmetic compositions are individually contained and a receiving area into which each of the two or more cosmetic compositions is dispensed. In a preferred embodiment, the device dispenses a specific amount of each of two or more cosmetic compositions. In another embodiment, each of the plurality of cartridges contains a different cosmetic composition. In certain embodiments, the device further comprises a memory configured to receive and store dispensing information, such as a specified amount of cosmetic composition to be dispensed from each cartridge; and circuitry configured to obtain the dispensing information from the memory and control the dispensing assembly to dispense a specified amount of the cosmetic composition from each of the cartridges. In one embodiment, the device comprises a receptacle into which two or more cosmetic compositions are dispensed. In certain embodiments, the receiving area is configured as part of a detachable portion of the device. The removable portion may optionally be configured as a closed container containing one or more of the dispensed cosmetic compositions.
In one embodiment, an apparatus includes a dispensing assembly configured to receive at least two cartridges, each cartridge containing a cosmetic composition, and to dispense a specific amount of the cosmetic composition from the cartridge into a receiving area; a memory configured to receive and store dispensing information including a specified amount of cosmetic composition to be dispensed for each cartridge disposed in the dispensing assembly to achieve a specified single use of a combination of cosmetic compositions; and circuitry configured to obtain the dispensing information from the memory and control the dispensing assembly to dispense the cosmetic composition from each cartridge disposed in the dispensing assembly into the receiving area according to one or more specified amounts included in the dispensing information.
In one embodiment, an apparatus includes a dispensing assembly configured to receive two or more cartridges, each cartridge containing a different cosmetic composition, and to dispense a specific amount of the different cosmetic composition from the two or more cartridges into a receiving area; a memory configured to receive and store dispensing information comprising a specified amount of each cosmetic composition to be dispensed for each cartridge disposed in the dispensing assembly to achieve a specified single use mix of two or more cosmetic compositions; and circuitry configured to obtain the dispensing information from the memory and control the dispensing assembly to dispense two or more cosmetic compositions from each cartridge disposed in the dispensing assembly into the receiving area according to one or more specified amounts included in the dispensing information.
In one embodiment, the apparatus further comprises a manifold having a plurality of manifold through-holes, the manifold being connected to and disposed on the nozzle of each of the two or more cartridges, the receiving area being connected to and disposed above the manifold, wherein the circuit controls the dispensing assembly to dispense an amount of the two or more cosmetic compositions from the nozzles of the two or more cartridges through the manifold through-holes of the manifold and into the receiving area.
In one embodiment, the dispensing assembly is configured to receive three or more cartridges, each cartridge containing a different cosmetic composition, and simultaneously dispense a specified amount of the three or more cosmetic compositions from each cartridge into the receiving area.
In one embodiment, a closed container comprises: a top cover; a base having a plurality of base through holes; and a bottom cap having a plurality of bottom cap through holes, wherein the top cap is connected to the first side of the base, the bottom cap is connected to the second side of the base, the bottom cap is connected to the manifold, the plurality of manifold through holes are aligned with and connected to the plurality of bottom cap through holes, and the plurality of base through holes are aligned with and connected to the plurality of base through holes. In a further embodiment, the closed container further comprises: a plurality of mounting magnets disposed between the base and the bottom cover, wherein the plurality of mounting magnets magnetically secure the enclosure to the manifold. In yet another embodiment, the closed container further comprises: a plurality of cover magnets disposed between the base and the bottom cover, wherein the plurality of cover magnets magnetically secure the top cover to the base and the bottom cover. In another embodiment, the closed container further comprises: a plurality of hinge magnets, wherein half of the plurality of hinge magnets are disposed between the base and the bottom cover, half of the plurality of hinge magnets are disposed within the top cover, the plurality of hinge magnets disposed within the top cover having opposite magnetic polarities to the corresponding plurality of hinge magnets disposed between the base and the bottom cover, the top cover magnetically hinged and disposed at least one location around the base and the bottom cover. In one embodiment, the top cover is only magnetically connected to the base and bottom cover, and the top cover is completely removable from the base and bottom cover.
The present disclosure relates to methods of treating skin using the kits/devices/apparatuses and methods described herein. The method comprises applying a mixture of cosmetic compositions according to the present disclosure to the skin, and optionally allowing the mixture of cosmetic compositions to remain on the skin for a period of time. The mixture of cosmetic compositions is typically applied directly to the skin by hand or by cloth. Prior to application, the skin may optionally be washed or rinsed. The method of treating the skin may be performed once a day or may be performed multiple times. For example, the method of treating skin may be once daily, twice daily, once weekly, once every two weeks, for an extended period of time (e.g., about 1,2, 3, 4,5, or 6 months to 1 year or more). In one embodiment, the method comprises dispensing two or more cosmetic compositions from a device that independently holds two or more cosmetic compositions, for example, in two or more cartridges; mixing two or more cosmetic compositions; and applying the mixture to the skin. In one embodiment, the device dispenses a specific amount of each of two or more cosmetic compositions. In another embodiment, the device dispenses two or more cosmetic compositions in the following amounts: it is sufficient for a single application or for treatment with a mixture of amounts of two or more cosmetic compositions. In one embodiment, the device dispenses two or more cosmetic compositions into a receiving portion of the device. Two or more cosmetic compositions may be mixed together in the receiving portion of the device or may be transferred to another area for mixing, for example, into one or both hands of an individual. In one embodiment, the individual mixes two or more cosmetic compositions together, for example in the individual's hand, and then applies the mixture to the skin.
Two or more cosmetic compositions are typically mixed with each other shortly before application to the skin. In certain embodiments, two or more cosmetic compositions are mixed with each other within 24 hours of application to the skin. In further embodiments, two or more cosmetic compositions are mixed with each other within 12 hours, 6 hours, 1 hour, 30 minutes, 10 minutes, 5 minutes, or 1 minute of application to the skin. In a preferred embodiment, the two or more cosmetic compositions are mixed immediately prior to application, i.e., within about 1 minute, about 30 seconds, or about 20 seconds prior to application.
Cosmetic compositions containing hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol provide benefits such as reduced fine lines and wrinkles, improved hyaluronic acid production by stimulating glycosaminoglycan (GAG) synthesis, softening the stratum corneum to relieve cumulative stress on the epidermis and dermis, and the like. Thus, the methods of the present disclosure involve improving hyaluronic acid production by stimulating glycosaminoglycan (GAG) synthesis, softening the stratum corneum to relieve cumulative stress on epidermis and dermis, and the like.
Cosmetic compositions containing retinol provide for promoting collagen and/or elastin production, reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone, tightening the skin, preventing and/or treating acne, reducing the development of melanin, and improving and lightening the skin tone. Thus, the methods of the present disclosure relate to reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone, tightening the skin, preventing and/or treating acne, reducing the development of melanin, and improving and lightening the skin tone.
Cosmetic compositions comprising ceramides (e.g., ceramide-NP) hydrate the skin and maintain moisture balance, reducing/reducing itching, chronic dryness, scaling and flaking. ceramide-NPs also help to enhance the natural lipid barrier of skin and help to treat dry and aged skin. Thus, the methods of the present disclosure relate to hydrating skin and maintaining moisture balance, reducing/reducing itching, chronic dryness, scaling and flaking; and enhance the natural lipid barrier of the skin to treat dry and aged skin.
Cosmetic compositions comprising 4-t-butylcyclohexanol reduce skin irritation, sooth the skin, and/or reduce or alleviate stinging, burning and tightening. Thus, the methods of the present disclosure relate to reducing skin irritation, alleviating skin, and/or reducing or alleviating stinging, burning, and tightness
Cosmetic compositions comprising acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valyl glycine improve elasticity of the skin of the face or body, promote hyaluronic acid production, collagen synthesis, synthesis of epidermal structural components, regeneration of damaged tissues, and reduce aging effects. Thus, the methods of the present disclosure relate to improving elasticity, promoting hyaluronic acid production, collagen synthesis, synthesis of epidermal structural components, regeneration of damaged tissues, and reducing the effects of aging to the skin of the face or body.
Cosmetic compositions for use in the above-described kits and methods will be described in more detail below under the heading "oil-in-water emulsion", "water-in-silicone emulsion" and "anhydrous composition". "
Oil-in-water emulsion
Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, characterized in that it comprises at least 40% by weight of water and from about 1 to about 20% by weight of an oil phase, based on the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion. In addition, the oil-in-water emulsion (or simply cosmetic composition) comprises one or more active agents, preferably one or more active agents which are stable and/or soluble in the oil or water phase of the emulsion. In a preferred embodiment, at least one of the one or more active agents is retinol, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, trifluoromethylphenyl valyl glycine, ceramide, or mixtures thereof.
Oil-in-water emulsion comprising retinol
In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprises retinol. The amount of retinol will vary. However, in various embodiments, the amount of retinol is from about 0.05 to about 6 weight percent, based on the total weight of the composition. In further embodiments, the amount of retinol in the composition is from about 0.05 to about 5 weight percent, from about 0.05 to about 4 weight percent, from about 0.05 to about 3 weight percent, from about 0.05 to about 2 weight percent, from about 0.1 to about 6 weight percent, from about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, from about 0.1 to about 4 weight percent, from about 0.1 to about 3 weight percent, from about 0.1 to about 2 weight percent, from about 0.5 to about 5 weight percent, from about 0.5 to about 4 weight percent, from about 0.5 to about 3 weight percent, or from about 0.5 to about 2 weight percent, based on total weight.
In one embodiment, a cosmetic composition comprises:
(a) Retinol, preferably in the amounts described above;
(b) A plurality of nonionic emulsifiers comprising:
(i) One or more ethoxylated fatty acids; and
(Ii) One or more nonionic emulsifiers having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of from about 9 to about 12;
(iii) Optionally, one or more glycerides;
(iv) Optionally, one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers;
(c) One or more fatty alcohols;
(d) One or more fatty compounds;
(e) One or more thickening polymers; and
(F) And (3) water.
A variety of nonionic emulsifiers represent all nonionic emulsifiers in cosmetic compositions.
The total amount of the plurality of nonionic emulsifiers (all nonionic emulsifiers) in the cosmetic composition will vary. However, in certain embodiments, the total amount of the plurality of nonionic emulsifiers is from about 1 to about 8 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of the plurality of nonionic emulsifiers is from about 1 to about 6 wt%, from about 1 to about 5wt%, from about 1 to about 4 wt%, from about 1 to about 3 wt%, from about 1.1 to about 8 wt%, from about 1.1 to about 6 wt%, from about 1.1 to about 5wt%, from about 1.1 to about 4 wt%, from about 1.1 to about 3 wt%, from about 1.1 to about 2 wt%, from about 1.5 to about 8 wt%, from about 1.5 to about 6 wt%, from about 1.5 to about 5wt%, from about 1.5 to about 4 wt%, or from about 1.5 to about 3 wt%, from 2 to about 8 wt%, from about 2 to about 6 wt%, from about 2 to about 5wt%, from about 2 to about 4 wt%, or from about 2 to about 3 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Non-limiting examples of ethoxylated fatty acids include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid and mixtures thereof, especially those containing 9-100 ethylene oxide groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (INCI name: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (INCI name: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (INCI name: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (INCI name: PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100EO monostearate (INCI name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof. A more thorough, but non-limiting list of useful ethoxylated fatty acids is provided under the heading "ethoxylated fatty acids".
The total amount of the one or more ethoxylated fatty acids may be from about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more ethoxylated fatty acids may be from about 0.1 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 2 wt%, from about 0.2 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.2 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.2 to about 3 wt%, or from about 0.2 to about 2 wt%, from about 0.4 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.4 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.4 to about 3 wt%, or from about 0.4 to about 2 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of about 9 to about 12 include alkyl polyglucosides (e.g., C12-20 alkyl glucosides), polyglycerol-based emulsifiers (e.g., polyglycerol-3 methyl glucoside distearate), sorbitan fatty acid esters, sugar fatty acid esters, polyol fatty acid esters, ethoxylates thereof, or mixtures thereof. A more thorough, but non-limiting list of nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 12 is included under the heading "nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of 9 to 12".
The total amount of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of 9 to 12 will vary. However, in certain embodiments, the total amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of 9 to 12 is about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of from 9 to 12 is from about 0.1 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 2 wt%, from about 0.2 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.2 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.2 to about 3 wt%, or from about 0.2 to about 2 wt%, from about 0.3 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.3 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.3 to about 3 wt%, or from about 0.3 to about 2 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, or from about 0.5 to about 2 wt%, from about 1 to about 5 wt%, from about 1 to about 3 wt%, or from about 1 to about 2 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Non-limiting examples of glycerides include di-diglyceride-2, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolinate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitat, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or mixtures thereof. In at least one instance, the glycerides include glyceryl stearate, di-diglyceride polyacyl adipate, glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. A more thorough, but non-limiting list of glycerides is included under the heading "glycerol fatty acid esters".
The total amount of one or more glycerides, if present, will vary. However, in certain embodiments, the total amount of the one or more glycerides, when present, is from about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of the one or more glyceryl esters is from about 0.1 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 2wt%, from about 0.2 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.2 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.2 to about 3 wt%, or from about 0.2 to about 2wt%, from about 0.3 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.3 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.3 to about 3 wt%, or from about 0.3 to about 2wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include fatty alcohols having from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, particularly C14-24 alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl or myristyl alcohol (myristic or myristyl alcohol), arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. A more thorough, but non-limiting list of fatty alcohols is included under the heading "fatty alcohols".
The total amount of one or more fatty alcohols in the cosmetic composition will vary. However, in certain embodiments, the total amount of the one or more fatty alcohols is from 0.1 wt% to about 8 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of the one or more fatty alcohols in the composition is from about 0.1 to about 6 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 8 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 6 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, from about 1 to about 8 wt%, from about 1 to about 6 wt%, from about 1 to about 5 wt%, from about 1 to about 4 wt%, or from about 1 to about 3 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds include fatty esters (e.g., diisopropyl sebacate, isononyl isononanoate), polyolefins (petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydro squalene, vegetable and/or vegetable oils (e.g., soybean oil), hydrocarbon-based oils (isohexadecane), silicone oils (e.g., polydimethylsiloxane, dimethiconol, and mixtures thereof.) a more detailed but non-limiting list of fatty compounds is provided under the heading "fatty compounds".
The amount of one or more fatty compounds in the cosmetic composition will vary. However, in certain embodiments, the total amount of the one or more fatty compounds is from about 1 wt% to about 20 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the amount of one or more fatty compounds in the cosmetic composition is from about 1 to 18 wt%, from about 1 to about 15 wt%, from about 5 to about 20 wt%, from about 5 to about 15 wt%, from about 6 to about 20 wt%, from about 6 to about 18 wt%, from about 6 to about 15 wt%, from about 8 to about 20 wt%, from about 8 to about 18 wt%, or from about 8 to about 15 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Non-limiting examples of thickening polymers include taurine salt copolymers, polyacrylates, polyacrylamides, and the like, such as polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6, sodium polyacrylate, polyacrylamide. Non-limiting examples of taurine salt copolymers include acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and mixtures thereof. A more thorough, but non-limiting, listing of thickening polymers is provided under the heading "thickening polymers".
The amount of the one or more thickening polymers will vary depending on the type of thickening polymer used; and on the desired viscosity of the cosmetic composition. Thus, in one embodiment, the total amount of one or more thickeners is sufficient to achieve the viscosity set forth throughout this disclosure. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more thickeners is from about 0.1 to about 8 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of one or more thickeners is from about 0.1 to about 6 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 5wt%, from about 0.1 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 3wt%, from about 0.5 to about 8 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 6 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 5wt%, from about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 3wt%, from about 1 to about 8 wt%, from about 1 to about 6 wt%, from about 1 to about 5wt%, from about 1 to about 4 wt%, from about 1 to about 3wt%, or from about 1 to about 2wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The amount of water in the cosmetic composition may and will vary depending on the amount of other components in the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the total amount of water in the composition is from about 55 to about 85 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the amount of water in the cosmetic composition is from about 55 to about 80 wt%, from about 55 to about 75 wt%, from about 60 to about 85 wt%, from about 60 to about 80 wt%, from about 60 to about 75 wt%, from about 65 to about 85 wt%, from about 65 to about 80 wt%, from about 65 to about 75 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprises one or more water-soluble solvents. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include glycerin, C 2-C5 monohydric alcohols, polyhydric alcohols (polyhydroxy alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the one or more water-soluble solvents are selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, t-butanol, and mixtures thereof. A more thorough, but non-limiting, list of water-soluble solvents is provided under the heading "water-soluble solvents".
In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition may optionally comprise one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Non-limiting examples of miscellaneous ingredients include miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants other than the above, preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, plant extracts, UV filters, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescers, fillers, colorants, matting agents, other skin-active agents, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkle agents, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one additional skin active agent, such as madecassoside. A more thorough, but non-limiting, listing of miscellaneous components is provided under the heading "miscellaneous components".
The miscellaneous ingredients may be included in the cosmetic composition, for example, in an amount of from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients may be about 0.01 to about 8 wt%, about 0.01 to about 5 wt%, about 0.01 to about 3 wt%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, or about 1 to about 3 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprises:
(a) About 0.05 to about 6 weight percent retinol;
(b) From about 1 to about 8 weight percent of a plurality of nonionic emulsifiers comprising:
(i) One or more ethoxylated fatty acids; and
(Ii) One or more nonionic emulsifiers having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of from about 9 to about 12;
(iii) Optionally one or more glycerides;
(iv) Optionally, one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers;
(c) About 0.1 to about 8 weight percent of one or more fatty alcohols;
(d) About 1 to about 20 weight percent of one or more fatty compounds;
(e) One or more thickening polymers; and
(F) Water;
Wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises or consists of:
(a) About 0.05 to about 6 wt%, preferably about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3 wt% of retinol;
(b) From about 1 to about 8 wt%, preferably from about 1.3 to about 8 wt%, more preferably from about 1.3 to about 6 wt%, even more preferably from about 1.3 to about 5wt%, of a plurality of nonionic emulsifiers comprising:
(i) Adducts of one or more ethoxylated fatty acids, for example, ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid and mixtures thereof, have 9 to 100 ethylene oxide groups;
(ii) One or more nonionic emulsifiers having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of from about 9 to about 12, for example selected from the group consisting of: (1) Polyglycerin fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylene alkyl glycerides and polyoxyalkylene fatty ethers; (2) Fatty acids or mixed esters of fatty alcohols, carboxylic acids and glycerol; (3) fatty acid esters of sugars and fatty alcohol ethers of sugars; (4) Fatty acid esters of sorbitan and oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; and mixtures thereof;
(iii) Optionally, one or more glycerides, for example, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolinate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl palmitat, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or mixtures thereof. In at least one instance, the glycerides include glyceryl stearate, glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof;
(iv) Optionally, one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers;
(c) About 0.1 to about 8 wt%, preferably about 0.5 to about 6 wt%, more preferably about 1 to about 5 wt%, of one or more fatty alcohols, such as a fatty alcohol selected from the group consisting of: fatty alcohols having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular C14-24 alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl or myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol and mixtures thereof;
(d) About 1 to about 20 weight percent, preferably about 5 to about 18 weight percent, more preferably about 5 to about 15 weight percent of one or more fatty compounds, such as one or more fatty compounds selected from the group consisting of fatty esters (e.g., isononyl isononanoate, diisopropyl sebacate), polyolefins (petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydro squalene, vegetable and/or vegetable oils (e.g., soybean oil), hydrocarbon-based oils (e.g., isohexadecane), silicone oils, and mixtures thereof;
(e) From about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, preferably from about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, more preferably from about 1 to about 3 wt%, of one or more thickening polymers, preferably one or more taurate copolymers, particularly one or more taurate copolymers selected from the group consisting of acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymers, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers, and mixtures thereof; and
(F) About 55 to about 85 wt%, preferably about 60 to about 80 wt%, more preferably about 65 to about 75 wt% water;
(g) Optionally, one or more water-soluble solvents, such as one or more water-soluble solvents selected from the group consisting of glycerin, monohydric alcohols (e.g., C1-5 monohydric alcohols), organic solvents, polyhydric alcohols (polyhydroxy alcohols), glycols (e.g., propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, etc.), and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerin, one or more monohydric alcohols selected from the group consisting of ethanol, isopropanol, and t-butanol, and one or more glycols selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and pentylene glycol, wherein the amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents, if present, is from about 1 to about 20 weight percent, preferably from about 5 to about 18 weight percent, more preferably from about 5 to about 15 weight percent;
(h) Optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, for example one or more miscellaneous ingredients selected from miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants other than the nonionic emulsifier of the plurality of nonionic emulsifiers of (b), preferably from about 0.01 to about 0.1 wt%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, more preferably from about 1 to about 8 wt%, of the cosmetic composition, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, plant extracts, UV filters, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescers, fillers, colorants, matting agents, other skin active agents, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkle agents;
wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In certain further embodiments, the plurality of nonionic emulsifiers (b) can comprise or consist of:
(i) About 0.1 to about 5wt%, preferably about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, more preferably about 0.2 to about 2 wt%, of one or more ethoxylated fatty acids, such as adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, having 9-100 ethylene oxide groups;
(ii) From about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, more preferably from about 0.2 to about 2 wt%, of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of from about 9 to about 12, for example selected from: (1) Polyglycerin fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylene alkyl glycerides and polyoxyalkylene fatty ethers; (2) Fatty acids or mixed esters of fatty alcohols, carboxylic acids and glycerol; (3) fatty acid esters of sugars and fatty alcohol ethers of sugars; (4) Sorbitan fatty acid esters and oxyalkylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters; and mixtures thereof;
(iii) Optionally, about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, preferably about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, more preferably about 0.2 to about 2 wt% of one or more glycerides, for example, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl palmitoleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or mixtures thereof, preferably selected from glyceryl stearate, glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof;
(iv) Optionally, one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the amount of the one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers, if present, may be from about 0.01 to about 5 wt%, preferably from about 0.01 to about 3 wt%,
Wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition (not the total weight of the plurality of nonionic surfactants).
In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises or consists of:
(a) About 0.05 to about 6 wt%, preferably about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3 wt% of retinol;
(b) From about 1 to about 8 wt%, preferably from about 1.3 to about 8 wt%, more preferably from about 1.3 to about 6 wt%, even more preferably from about 1.3 to about 5wt%, of a plurality of nonionic emulsifiers comprising:
(ii) About 0.1 to about 5 wt%, preferably about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, more preferably about 0.2 to about 2 wt%, of one or more ethoxylated fatty acids, such as adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, having 9-100 ethylene oxide groups;
(ii) From about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, more preferably from about 0.2 to about 2 wt%, of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of from about 9 to about 12, for example selected from: (1) Polyglycerin fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylene alkyl glycerides and polyoxyalkylene fatty ethers; (2) Fatty acids or mixed esters of fatty alcohols, carboxylic acids and glycerol; (3) fatty acid esters of sugars and fatty alcohol ethers of sugars; (4) Sorbitan fatty acid esters and oxyalkylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters; and mixtures thereof, preferably, at least one of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of about 9 to about 12 is selected from alkyl polyglucosides (e.g., C12-20 alkyl glucosides), polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-2 dimerized hydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-2 polyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucoside distearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof;
(iii) Optionally, about 0.1 to about 5wt%, preferably about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, more preferably about 0.2 to about 2wt% of one or more glycerides, for example, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl palmitoleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or mixtures thereof, preferably selected from the group consisting of glyceryl stearate, glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof;
(iv) Optionally, one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the amount of the one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers, if present, may be from about 0.01 to about 5 wt%, preferably from about 0.01 to about 3 wt%;
(c) About 0.1 to about 8 wt%, preferably about 0.5 to about 6 wt%, more preferably about 1 to about 5 wt%, of one or more fatty alcohols, such as a fatty alcohol selected from the group consisting of: fatty alcohols having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular C14-24 alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl or myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol and mixtures thereof;
(d) About 1 to about 20 weight percent, preferably about 5 to about 18 weight percent, more preferably about 5 to about 15 weight percent of one or more fatty compounds, such as one or more fatty compounds selected from the group consisting of fatty esters (e.g., isononyl isononanoate), polyolefin (petrolatum), wax, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, vegetable and/or vegetable oils (e.g., soybean oil), hydrocarbon-based oils (e.g., isohexadecane), silicone oils, and mixtures thereof;
(e) From about 0.1 to about 8 weight percent, preferably from about 0.5 to about 5 weight percent, more preferably from about 1 to about 3 weight percent, of one or more thickening polymers, wherein at least one of the one or more thickening polymers is a taurate copolymer selected from the group consisting of acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and mixtures thereof; and
(F) About 55 to about 85 wt%, preferably about 60 to about 80 wt%, more preferably about 65 to about 75 wt% water;
(e) Optionally, one or more water-soluble solvents, such as one or more water-soluble solvents, selected from the group consisting of glycerin, monohydric alcohols (e.g., C1-5 monohydric alcohols), organic solvents, polyhydric alcohols (polyhydroxy alcohols), glycols (e.g., propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, etc.), and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerin (glyceryn), one or more monohydric alcohols selected from the group consisting of ethanol, isopropanol, and t-butanol, and one or more glycols selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and pentylene glycol, wherein the amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents, if present, is preferably from about 1 to about 20 weight percent, preferably from about 5 to about 18 weight percent, more preferably from about 5 to about 15 weight percent;
(h) Optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, such as one or more miscellaneous ingredients selected from miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants other than the nonionic emulsifier of the plurality of nonionic emulsifiers of (b), preferably from about 0.01 to about 0.1% by weight to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 8% by weight, of the cosmetic composition;
wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The cosmetic composition is stable and retinol is preserved. With respect to physical stability, in certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition does not visually phase separate or form visually observable particles after storage at 4 ℃,25 ℃, 37 ℃ and/or 45 ℃ for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks.
In another embodiment, the cosmetic composition does not undergo visual phase separation or form visually observable particles in a freeze-thaw test of at least 10 cycles, wherein the freeze-thaw test comprises placing the cosmetic composition in a stabilization chamber and subjecting it to temperature fluctuations at 12 hour intervals, a first interval of 12 hours at-20 ℃, followed by a second interval of 12 hours at 25 ℃.
In another embodiment, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition does not change by more than 20%, 15%, 10% or 5% after storage at 4 ℃, 25 ℃,37 ℃ and/or 45 ℃ for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks.
Regarding chemical stability of retinol, in various embodiments, at least 70%, 75%, 80%, 85%, 90%, or 95% of the retinol is preserved within 8 weeks when the cosmetic composition is incorporated into a sealed polyethylene terephthalate (PETG) container and stored at 25 ℃ and/or 45 ℃.
In general, the cosmetic composition preferably has a viscosity of about 10,000 to about 200,000pa.s at 25 ℃ and a shear rate of 1s -1 at 25 ℃. However, the cosmetic composition may have a viscosity of about 10,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 120,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 120,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 150,000pa.s, or about 20,000 to about 120,000pa.s at 25 ℃, and a shear rate of 1s -1 at.
Example 1
(Oil-in-water emulsion with retinol)
Example 2
(Stability data)
Physical stability studies were performed on compositions a and B of example 1 and phase separation was assessed visually and particle formation was assessed under a microscope. The composition was analyzed after initial preparation (T 0) of the composition. The composition was again analyzed after 10 days of freeze-thaw testing. For the freeze-thaw test, the composition was placed in a stabilization chamber and subjected to temperature fluctuations at 12 hour intervals. The composition was kept at-20℃for 12 hours. During the next 12 hours, the composition was maintained at 25 ℃. The cycle was repeated 10 times (10 days). Separately, after storage for 4 weeks (1 month) at 4 ℃, 25 ℃, 37 ℃ and 45 ℃ and after storage again for 8 weeks (2 months) at 4 ℃, 25 ℃, 37 ℃ and 45 ℃, the composition of example 1 was evaluated and visually phase separated and particle formation was evaluated under a microscope.
The compositions of the present invention are considered stable ("Y") (yes) because they do not visually phase separate and do not form particles.
Chemical stability, in particular the chemical stability (resistance to degradation) of retinol in cosmetic compositions was also evaluated. The composition of example 1 was separately added to a sealed polyethylene terephthalate (PETG) box and stored at 25 ℃ and 45 ℃ and the amount of retinol remaining was determined after 8 weeks. The amount of retinol was determined by HPLC in combination with UV-Vis. A calibration curve was prepared to quantify the area under the curve for each sample.
Oil-in-water emulsion containing hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol and optionally 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol
In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprises hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, and optionally 4-t-butylcyclohexanol. The amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol in the cosmetic composition will vary, but in certain embodiments it is from about 10% to about 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In further embodiments, the amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol in the composition is from about 10 wt% to about 35 wt%, from about 10 wt% to about 30 wt%, from about 10 wt% to about 25 wt%, from about 10 wt% to about 20 wt%, from about 12 wt% to about 35 wt%, from about 12 wt% to about 30 wt%, from about 12 wt% to about 25 wt%, from about 12 wt% to about 20 wt%, from about 12 wt% to about 18 wt%, from about 14 wt% to about 30 wt%, from about 14 wt% to about 25 wt%, from about 14 wt% to about 20 wt%, or from about 14 wt% to about 18 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprises:
(a) Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, preferably used in the above amounts;
(b) Water;
(c) One or more nonionic emulsifiers selected from glycerides having an HLB of about 3 to about 8;
(d) One or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of from about 16 to about 18;
(e) One or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of from about 9 to about 15;
(f) One or more fatty alcohols;
(g) One or more fatty compounds; and
(H) One or more thickening polymers.
Wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The amount of water in the cosmetic composition will vary depending on the amount of other components in the cosmetic composition. Typically, the amount of water in the composition is from about 30 to about 85 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In certain embodiments, the amount of water in the cosmetic composition is about 30 to about 80 wt%, about 30 to about 70wt%, about 30 to about 60 wt%, about 30 to about 50wt%, about 40 to about 80 wt%, about 40 to about 70wt%, about 40 to about 60 wt%, about 40 to about 50wt%, about 50 to about 80 wt%, about 50 to about 75 wt%, about 50 to about 70wt%, about 55 to about 85 wt%, about 55 to about 80 wt%, about 55 to about 75 wt%, about 55 to about 70wt%, about 60 to about 85 wt%, about 60 to about 80 wt%, about 60 to about 75 wt%, or about 60 to about 70wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers of glycerides having an HLB of about 3 to about 8 include glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl lanolinate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl palmitoleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl distearate, or mixtures thereof. Preferred glycerides include glyceryl stearate, glyceryl ricinoleate, or mixtures thereof.
In various embodiments, the one or more glycerides having an HLB of about 3 to about 8 are selected from glycerides that are solid at a temperature below 30 ℃.
The total amount of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of from about 3 to about 8 of glycerides may vary. In certain embodiments, the total amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of from about 3 to about 8 glycerides is from 0.1 wt% to about 5 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the amount of nonionic emulsifier selected from one or more glycerides having an HLB of from about 3 to about 8 is from about 0.1 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 2 wt%, from about 0.2 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.2 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.2 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.2 to about 2 wt%, from about 0.3 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.3 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.3 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.3 to about 2 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 2 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of from about 16 to about 18 include ethoxylated emulsifiers such as ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters, and mixtures thereof. Ethoxylated fatty acids are particularly preferred. A more thorough, but non-limiting list of nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of from about 16 to about 18 is provided under the heading "nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of from about 16 to about 18".
The total amount of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of from about 16 to about 18 will vary. However, in certain embodiments, the total amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of from about 16 to about 18 is from about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 16 to about 18 is about 0.1 to about 4 wt%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, about 0.1 to about 2 wt%, about 0.2 to about 5 wt%, about 0.2 to about 4 wt%, about 0.2 to about 3 wt%, about 0.2 to about 2 wt%, about 0.3 to about 5 wt%, about 0.3 to about 4 wt%, about 0.3 to about 3 wt%, about 0.3 to about 2 wt%, about 0.5 wt% to about 5 wt%, about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, about 0.5 to about 2 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15 include alkyl polyglucosides (cetostearyl glucoside), polyglycerol-based emulsifiers (polyglycerol-3 methyl glucoside distearate), sorbitan fatty acid esters (polysorbate 60), sugar esters or ethers, sugar-based esters or ethers, polyol fatty acid esters or ethers, glyceryl fatty acid esters or ethers, ethoxylates thereof, or mixtures thereof. A more thorough, but non-limiting list of nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15 is provided under the heading "nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15".
The total amount of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of from about 9 to about 15 will vary. However, in various embodiments, the amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15 is about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15 are about 0.1 to about 4 wt%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, about 0.1 to about 2 wt%, about 0.3 to about 5 wt%, about 0.3 to about 4 wt%, about 0.3 to about 2 wt%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, or about 0.5 to about 2 wt%, about 1.0 to about 5 wt%, about 1.0 to about 4 wt%, about 1.0 to about 3 wt%, or about 1.0 to about 2 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include fatty alcohols having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, particularly cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl or myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. A more thorough, but non-limiting list of fatty alcohols is provided under the heading "fatty alcohols".
The total amount of one or more fatty alcohols will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more fatty alcohols in the cosmetic composition is from 1 wt% to about 10 wt% based on the total weight of the composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of the one or more fatty alcohols in the composition is from about 1 to about 8 wt%, from about 1 to about 5 wt%, from about 1 to about 4 wt%, from about 1 to about 3 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds include fatty esters (e.g., isononyl isononanoate), polyolefins (petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, vegetable and/or vegetable oils (e.g., soybean oil), hydrocarbon-based oils (e.g., isohexadecane), and mixtures thereof. A more thorough, but non-limiting, listing of fatty compounds is provided under the heading "fatty compounds".
The total amount of one or more fatty compounds in the cosmetic composition will vary. However, in certain embodiments, the total amount of the one or more fatty compounds is from about 5wt% to about 20 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of one or more fatty compounds in the cosmetic composition is from about 5 to 15 wt%, from about 5 to about 12 wt%, from about 6 to about 20 wt%, from about 6 to about 15 wt%, from about 6 to about 12 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Useful thickening polymers include, inter alia, taurate copolymers and the like. Non-limiting examples of taurine salt copolymers include acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and mixtures thereof. A more thorough, but non-limiting, listing of thickening polymers is provided under the heading "thickening polymers".
Generally, the amount of one or more thickening polymers will vary depending on the type of thickening polymer used; and on the desired viscosity of the cosmetic composition. Thus, in one embodiment, the total amount of one or more thickeners is sufficient to achieve the viscosity set forth throughout this disclosure. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more thickening polymers may be from about 1 to about 8 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the amount of the one or more thickening polymers may be from about 1 to about 6 wt%, from about 1 to about 5 wt%, from about 1 to about 3 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The silicone may optionally be included in a cosmetic composition, but in some embodiments the composition is free or substantially free of silicone. Silicones are synthetic polymers composed of a combination of repeating units of siloxane, elemental silicon and oxygen, and other elements most commonly carbon and hydrogen. Thus, silicones are also known as polysiloxanes. In some cases, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure are free or substantially free of silicone, such as polydimethylsiloxane, amino-terminal polydimethylsiloxane, dimethiconol, cyclosiloxanes, siloxanes, and the like. In another embodiment, the composition includes one or more silicones.
The total amount of one or more silicones in the cosmetic composition, if present, will vary. However, in certain embodiments, the total amount of the one or more silicones is from about 0.01 to about 15 wt%, from about 0.01 to about 10 wt%, from about 0.01 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.01 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.01 to about 2 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 15 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 2 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The cosmetic composition need not, nor does it have to include, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, which is optional. However, in certain embodiments, it is preferred to include 4-t-butylcyclohexanol. The 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol may be in cis configuration, trans configuration or a mixture of cis and trans configuration. Wherein 4-t-butylcyclohexanol is useful for reducing skin irritation, for soothing skin, and/or for reducing or alleviating stinging, burning and tightening.
The total amount of 4-t-butylcyclohexanol will vary. However, in certain embodiments, the total amount of 4-t-butylcyclohexanol in the cosmetic composition is from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight, based upon the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of 4-t-butylcyclohexanol is about 0.1 to about 4 wt%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, about 0.1 to about 2 wt%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, about 0.5 to about 2 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, about 1 to about 4 wt%, about 1 to about 3 wt%, or about 1 to about 2 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more water-soluble solvents. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include glycerin, monohydric alcohols, polyhydric alcohols (polyhydroxy alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof. In further embodiments, the one or more water-soluble solvents may be selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, t-butanol, and mixtures thereof. A more detailed but non-limiting list of useful water-soluble solvents is provided under the heading "water-soluble solvents".
The total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents will vary. However, in certain embodiments, the total amount of the one or more aqueous solutions is from about 0.1 to about 20 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents is from about 0.1 to about 20 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 15 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.1 wt% to about 1 wt%, from about 2 to about 20 wt%, from about 2 to about 15 wt%, from about 2 to about 10 wt%, from about 2 to about 5 wt%, from about 5 to about 20 wt%, from about 5 to about 15 wt%, or from about 5 to about 10 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Non-limiting examples of miscellaneous ingredients include miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants other than the dimethicone copolyol emulsifier of (d), preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, plant extracts, UV filters, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescers, fillers, colorants, matting agents, other skin-active agents, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkling agents, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one additional skin active agent, such as madecassoside. A more thorough, but non-limiting, listing of miscellaneous components is provided under the heading "miscellaneous components".
When present, the miscellaneous ingredients may be in an amount of from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients may be about 0.01 to about 8 wt%, about 0.01 to about 5 wt%, about 0.01 to about 3 wt%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, or about 1 to about 3 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In one embodiment, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprises:
(a) About 10 to about 40 weight percent hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol;
(b) Water;
(c) From about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent of a nonionic emulsifier selected from glycerides having an HLB of from about 3 to about 8;
(d) About 0.1 to about 5 weight percent of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 16 to about 18;
(e) About 0.1 to about 5 weight percent of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15;
(f) About 1 to about 10 weight percent of one or more fatty alcohols;
(g) About 5 to about 20 weight percent of one or more fatty compounds; and
(H) One or more thickening polymers;
Wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably a gel emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The gel emulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion in which the aqueous phase is a gel and the oil droplets/particles are dispersed throughout the gel matrix.
In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprises or consists of:
(a) From about 10 to about 40 weight percent, preferably from about 10 to about 20 weight percent, more preferably from about 12 to about 18 weight percent, of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol;
(b) About 50 to about 85 wt%, preferably about 55 to about 80 wt%, more preferably about 55 to about 75 wt% water;
(c) From about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 4, more preferably from about 0.2 to about 3 wt%, of one or more nonionic emulsifiers selected from glycerides having an HLB of from about 3 to about 8, such as glycerides selected from the following: glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl lanolinate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl palmitoleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate and mixtures thereof, preferably one or more glyceryl esters selected from glyceryl stearate, glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof;
(d) From about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 4, more preferably from about 0.2 to about 3 wt%, of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of from about 16 to about 18, preferably one or more ethoxylated emulsifiers selected from the group consisting of: ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters and mixtures thereof, preferably one or more ethoxylated fatty acids;
(e) About 0.1 to about 5 wt%, preferably about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, more preferably about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15, such as selected from alkyl polyglucosides (cetylglucoside), polyglycerin-based emulsifiers (polyglycerin-3-methyl glucose distearate), sorbitan fatty acid esters (polysorbate 60), sugar esters or ethers, sugar-based esters or ethers, polyol fatty acid esters or ethers, glyceryl fatty acid esters or ethers, ethoxylates thereof, or mixtures thereof, preferably selected from sugar esters or ethers and sugar-based esters or ethers;
(f) About 1 to about 10 weight percent, preferably about 1 to about 8 weight percent, more preferably about 1 to about 6 weight percent of one or more fatty alcohols, preferably selected from fatty alcohols having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol or myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;
(g) About 5 to about 20 wt%, preferably about 5 to about 15 wt%, more preferably about 6 to about 12 wt% of one or more fatty compounds, such as one or more fatty compounds selected from the group consisting of fatty esters (e.g., isononyl isononanoate), polyolefin (petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, vegetable and/or vegetable oils (e.g., soybean oil), hydrocarbon-based oils (e.g., isohexadecane), and mixtures thereof;
(h) One or more thickening polymers, preferably one or more taurate copolymers, particularly one or more taurate copolymers, selected from the group consisting of acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and mixtures thereof, wherein the amount of the one or more thickening polymers may optionally be from about 1 to about 8 weight percent, preferably from about 1 to about 5 weight percent, more preferably from about 1 to about 3 weight percent;
(i) Optionally, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, wherein if present, is preferably in an amount of about 0.1 to about 5wt%, preferably about 0.5 to about 4wt%, more preferably 0.5 to about 3 wt%;
(j) Optionally, one or more water-soluble solvents, such as one or more water-soluble solvents selected from glycerol, alcohols (e.g., C1-30, C1-15, C1-10, or C1-4 alcohols), organic solvents, polyols (polyols, e.g., ethanol, isopropanol, t-butanol, etc.), glycols (e.g., propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, etc.), and mixtures thereof, preferably one or more monohydric alcohols selected from ethanol, isopropanol, and t-butanol, and one or more glycols selected from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and pentylene glycol, wherein the one or more water-soluble solvents, if present, comprise from about 0.1 to about 20 wt%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 15 wt%, more preferably from about 1 to about 15 wt%, of the cosmetic composition;
(k) Optionally, one or more silicones, such as polydimethylsiloxane, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysiloxane-11, phenyl trimethicone, and amino terminal polydimethylsiloxane, preferably polydimethylsiloxane, wherein the amount of the one or more silicones, if present, can be from about 0.01 to about 10 weight percent, from about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 3 weight percent;
(1) Optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, such as one or more miscellaneous ingredients selected from the group consisting of miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants, preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusting agents, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, plant extracts, UV filters, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescers, fillers, colorants, matting agents, other skin active agents, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkle agents, wherein the one or more miscellaneous ingredients, if present, comprise from about 0.01 to about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 8% by weight of the cosmetic composition.
Wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably a gel emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In a further embodiment, the cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprises or consists of:
(a) From about 10 to about 40 weight percent, preferably from about 10 to about 20 weight percent, more preferably from about 12 to about 18 weight percent, of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol;
(b) About 50 to about 85 wt%, preferably about 55 to about 80 wt%, more preferably about 55 to about 75 wt% water;
(c) From about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 4, more preferably from about 0.2 to about 3% by weight of one or more nonionic emulsifiers selected from glycerides having an HLB of from about 3 to about 8, in particular from glyceryl stearate, glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof, preferably glyceryl stearate;
(d) From about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 4, more preferably from about 0.2 to about 3 wt%, of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of from about 16 to about 18 selected from ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters and mixtures thereof, preferably one or more ethoxylated fatty acids;
(e) From about 0.1 to about 5wt%, preferably from about 0.5 to about 5wt%, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of from about 9 to about 15, such as selected from alkyl polyglucosides (cetylglucoside), polyglycerin-based emulsifiers (polyglycerin-3-methyl glucose distearate), sorbitan fatty acid esters (polysorbate 60), sugar esters or ethers, sugar-based esters or ethers, polyol fatty acid esters or ethers, glyceryl fatty acid esters or ethers, ethoxylates thereof, or mixtures thereof, preferably selected from sugar esters or ethers and sugar-based esters or ethers;
(f) About 1 to about 10 weight percent, preferably about 1 to about 8 weight percent, more preferably about 1 to about 6 weight percent of one or more fatty alcohols having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;
(g) About 5 to about 20 wt%, preferably about 5 to about 15 wt%, more preferably about 6 to about 12 wt% of one or more fatty compounds, such as one or more fatty compounds selected from the group consisting of fatty esters (e.g., isononyl isononanoate), polyolefin (petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, vegetable and/or vegetable oils (e.g., soybean oil), hydrocarbon-based oils (e.g., isohexadecane), and mixtures thereof;
(h) About 1 to about 8 wt%, preferably about 1 to about 5 wt%, more preferably about 1 to about 3 wt%, of one or more taurate copolymers, in particular one or more taurate copolymers selected from the group consisting of: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, and mixtures thereof;
(i) Optionally, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, wherein if present, is preferably in an amount of about 0.1 to about 5wt%, preferably about 0.5 to about 4wt%, more preferably 0.5 to about 3 wt%;
(j) About 0.1 to about 20 weight percent, preferably about 0.1 to about 15 weight percent, more preferably about 1 to about 5 weight percent of one or more water-soluble solvents selected from the group consisting of one or more monohydric alcohols (e.g., ethanol, isopropanol, and t-butanol), one or more glycols (e.g., propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and pentylene glycol), and mixtures thereof;
(k) About 0.01 to about 10 weight percent, about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, more preferably about 0.1 to about 3 weight percent of one or more silicones such as polydimethylsiloxane, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysiloxane-11, phenyl trimethicone, and amino terminal dimethicone, preferably dimethicone;
(l) Optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, such as one or more other ingredients selected from the group consisting of other emulsifiers/surfactants, preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusting agents, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, plant extracts, UV filters, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescers, fillers, colorants, matting agents, other skin-active agents, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkle agents, wherein the miscellaneous ingredient(s), if present, comprise from about 0.01 to about 0.1 to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 8%, more preferably from about 1 to about 8% by weight of the cosmetic composition
Wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably a gel emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The composition preferably has a pH of about 4 to about 8, preferably about 5 to about 8, more preferably about 4.5 to about 7.5.
The cosmetic composition is stable. For example, in one embodiment, the cosmetic composition does not visually phase separate or form visually observable particles after storage at 4 ℃,25 ℃, 37 ℃ and/or 45 ℃ for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks.
In another embodiment, the cosmetic composition does not undergo visual phase separation or form visually observable particles in a freeze-thaw test of at least 10 cycles, wherein the freeze-thaw test comprises placing the cosmetic composition in a stabilization chamber and subjecting it to temperature fluctuations at 12 hour intervals, a first interval of 12 hours at-20 ℃, followed by a second interval of 12 hours at 25 ℃.
In one embodiment, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition does not change by more than 20%, 15%, 10% or 5% after storage at 4 ℃, 25 ℃, 37 ℃ and/or 45 ℃ for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks.
In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition preferably has a viscosity of about 5,000 to about 200,000pa.s at 25 ℃ and a shear rate of 1s -1 at 25 ℃. However, the cosmetic composition may have a viscosity of about 10,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 120,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 120,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 150,000pa.s, or about 20,000 to about 120,000pa.s at 25 ℃, and a shear rate of 1s -1 at.
Example 3
(Oil-in-water emulsion comprising hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol and 4-t-butylcyclohexanol)
Example 4
(Comparative composition)
Example 5
The compositions of example 3 and example 4 were subjected to stability studies and visually evaluated for phase separation and particle formation under a microscope. The composition was analyzed after initial preparation (T 0) of the composition. The composition was again analyzed after 10 days of freeze-thaw testing. For the freeze-thaw test, the composition was placed in a stabilization chamber and subjected to temperature fluctuations at 12 hour intervals. The composition was kept at-20℃for 12 hours. During the next 12 hours, the composition was maintained at 25 ℃. The cycle was repeated 10 times (10 days). Separately, after storage for 4 weeks (1 month) at 4 ℃,25 ℃, 37 ℃ and 45 ℃ and further storage for 8 weeks (2 months) at 4 ℃,25 ℃, 37 ℃ and 45 ℃ again, the composition of example 1 was evaluated and visually phase separated and particle formation was evaluated under a microscope.
The compositions of the present invention are considered stable ("Y") (yes) because they do not visually phase separate and do not form particles. The comparative compositions (C-1 to C-3) were considered unstable ("N") (NO) because they phase separated and/or formed particles. The data shows the importance of one or more nonionic emulsifiers (c) selected from glycerides having an HLB of about 3 to about 8 and the importance of one or more nonionic emulsifiers (d) having an HLB of about 16 to about 18. If one of these types of emulsifiers is not included, the resulting composition lacks stability, i.e., exhibits phase separation and particle formation, as shown by the data for the comparative compositions (C-1, C-2, and C-3).
Oil-in-water emulsion comprising trifluoromethylphenyl valyl glycine
In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprises acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valyl glycine. The amount of acetyltrifluoromethylphenyl valyl glycine will vary, but in various embodiments is from about 1 to about 5 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the amount of acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valyl glycine is from about 1.5 to about 5 wt%, from about 2 to about 5 wt%, from about 2.5 to about 5 wt%, from about 1 to about 4 wt%, from about 1.5 to about 4 wt%, from about 2 to about 4 wt%, from about 2.5 to about 4 wt%, or about 3 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In another embodiment, the total amount of acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valyl glycine is from about 2.6 to about 3.4 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises:
(a) Acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valyl glycine, preferably present in the amounts described above;
(b) Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol;
(c) Two or more taurate copolymers;
(d) One or more fatty alcohols;
(e) One or more fatty compounds;
(f) One or more nonionic emulsifiers; and
(G) Water;
wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol in the cosmetic composition will vary, but in certain embodiments is from about 10% to about 40% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. In further embodiments, the amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol in the composition is from about 10 wt% to about 35 wt%, from about 10 wt% to about 30 wt%, from about 10 wt% to about 25 wt%, from about 10 wt% to about 20 wt%, from about 12wt% to about 35 wt%, from about 12wt% to about 30 wt%, from about 12wt% to about 25 wt%, from about 12wt% to about 20 wt%, from about 12wt% to about 18 wt%, from about 14 wt% to about 30 wt%, from about 14 wt% to about 25 wt%, from about 14 wt% to about 20 wt%, or from about 14 wt% to about 18 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
Non-limiting examples of taurine salt copolymers include acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
In a particularly preferred embodiment, at least one of the two or more taurate copolymers is selected from taurate copolymers acting as a polymeric emulsifier, in particular it is selected from hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/steareth-25 methacrylate cross-linked polymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/behenyl polyether-25 methacrylate cross-linked polymer, and mixtures thereof.
Non-limiting examples of taurine salt copolymers include acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
The total amount of the two or more taurate copolymers will vary, but in certain embodiments the total amount of the two or more taurate copolymers is from about 2% to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the amount of the two or more taurate copolymers in the cosmetic composition is from about 2 to about 12 wt%, from about 2 to about 10 wt%, from about 2 to about 8 wt%, from about 2 to about 5 wt%, from about 2 to about 4 wt%, from about 2 to about 3 wt%, from about 2.5 to about 15 wt%, from about 2.5 to about 12 wt%, from about 2.5 to about 10 wt%, from about 2.5 to about 8 wt%, from about 2.5 to about 5 wt%, or from about 2.5 to about 4 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In a preferred embodiment, each taurine copolymer comprised in the two or more taurine copolymers of the cosmetic composition is at least 0.7% by weight, preferably at least 0.8% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other words, none of the separate taurate copolymers is present in an amount of less than 0.7% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Thus, in certain embodiments, the total amount of two or more taurate copolymers in the cosmetic composition is from about 2% to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, provided that the amount of each individual taurate copolymer of the two or more taurate copolymers is at least 0.7% by weight, preferably at least 0.8% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In further embodiments, the amount of the two or more taurate copolymers in the cosmetic composition is from about 2 to about 12 wt%, from about 2 to about 10 wt%, from about 2 to about 8 wt%, from about 2 to about 5 wt%, from about 2 to about 4 wt%, from about 2 to about 3 wt%, from about 2.5 to about 15 wt%, from about 2.5 to about 12 wt%, from about 2.5 to about 10 wt%, from about 2.5 to about 8 wt%, from about 2.5 to about 5 wt%, or from about 2.5 to about 4 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, provided that the amount of each individual taurate copolymer in the two or more taurate copolymers is at least 0.7 wt%, preferably at least 0.8 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In certain embodiments, it is preferred that the cosmetic composition comprises three or more taurate copolymers. In particular, it is useful to include three or more taurate copolymers selected from the group consisting of acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, it is useful to use three or more taurate copolymers, including ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the three taurate copolymers are included in the following amounts, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition:
from 0.1 to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.6 to 2% by weight, of an ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer,
From 0.7 to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.7 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.8 to 2% by weight, of acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and
From 0.1 to about 4% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.6 to 2% by weight, of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises:
0.6 to 2% by weight of an ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer,
0.8 To 2% by weight of acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and
From 0.6 to 2% by weight of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.
Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include those selected from the group consisting of C 6-C20 fatty alcohols, such as decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, eicosyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, 2-dodecyl cetyl alcohol, 2-tetradecyl-1-stearyl alcohol, 2-tetradecyl-1-eicosyl alcohol, 2-hexadecyl-1-stearyl alcohol, 2-hexadecyl-1-eicosyl alcohol, octyl dodecyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. A more thorough, but non-limiting list of useful fatty alcohols is included under the heading "fatty alcohols".
The total amount of the one or more fatty alcohols will vary, but in certain embodiments is from about 0.5% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In further embodiments, the amount of the one or more fatty alcohols is from about 0.5 to about 8 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, from 0.5 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, from about 1 to about 10 wt%, from about 1 to about 8 wt%, from about 1 to about 5 wt%, from about 1 to about 4 wt%, from about 1 wt% to about 3 wt%, from about 1.5 to about 10 wt%, from about 1.5 to about 8 wt%, from about 1.5 to about 5 wt%, from about 1.5 to about 4 wt%, from about 1.5 to about 3 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds include fatty esters (e.g., isononyl isononanoate), polyolefins (e.g., petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, vegetable and/or plant oils, hydrocarbon-based oils (e.g., isohexadecane), and mixtures thereof. A more thorough, but non-limiting list of fatty compounds is included under the heading "fatty compounds".
The amount of one or more fatty compounds in the cosmetic composition will vary, but in certain embodiments is from about 2% to about 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of one or more fatty compounds is from about 2 to about 20 wt%, from about 2 to about 15 wt%, from about 2 to about 12 wt%, from about 3 to about 20 wt%, from about 3 to about 15 wt%, from about 3 to about 12 wt%, from about 5 to about 20 wt%, from about 5 to about 15 wt%, from about 5 to about 12 wt%, from about 6 to about 15 wt%, or from about 6 to about 12 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers include alkanolamides, sorbitan fatty acid esters (e.g., sorbitan isostearate and sorbitan oleate), ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters (e.g., polysorbate 80), polyol esters, glycerides, polyglucosides (e.g., cetyl glucoside), glycerol ethers, oxyethylenated ethers, oxypropylether, and ethylene glycol polymers. A more thorough, but non-limiting list of nonionic emulsifiers is included under the heading "nonionic emulsifiers".
The total amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers in the cosmetic composition will vary, but in certain embodiments is from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers in the cosmetic composition is from about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 5wt%, from about 0.1 to about 3wt%, from about 0.2 to about 10wt%, from about 0.2 to about 8 wt%, from about 0.2 to about 5wt%, from about 0.2 to about 3wt%, from about 0.3 to about 10wt%, from about 0.3 to about 8 wt%, from about 0.3 to about 5wt%, or from about 0.3 to about 3wt%, from 0.5 to about 10wt%, from about 0.5 to about 8 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 5wt%, or from about 0.5 to about 3wt%, from 1.0 to about 10wt%, from about 1.0 to about 8 wt%, from about 1.0 to about 5wt%, or from about 1.0 to about 3wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The amount of water in the cosmetic composition will vary depending on the amount of other components in the cosmetic composition. However, in certain embodiments, the amount of water is from about 35 wt% to about 85 wt%. In further embodiments, the amount of water is from about 35 to about 80 wt%, from about 35 to about 75 wt%, from about 35 to about 70 wt%, from about 40 to about 85 wt%, from about 40 to about 80 wt%, from about 40 to about 75 wt%, from about 40 to about 70 wt%, from about 50 to about 85 wt%, from about 50 to about 80 wt%, from about 50 to about 75 wt%, from about 50 to about 70 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include glycerin, monohydric alcohols, polyhydric alcohols (e.g., polyols), glycols, and mixtures thereof. A more detailed but non-limiting list of water-soluble solvents is included under the heading "water-soluble solvents".
The total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents will vary, but in certain embodiments is from about 0.1 to about 20 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents is from about 0.1 to about 15wt%, from about 0.1 to about 10wt%, from about 0.5 to about 20 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 15wt%, from about 0.5 to about 10wt%, from about 1 to about 20 wt%, from about 1 to about 15wt%, from about 1 to about 10wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition may optionally comprise one or more thickening polymers, which are different from the two or more taurate copolymers (C). A non-limiting list of useful thickening polymers is included under the heading "thickening polymer".
When present, the amount of one or more thickening polymers will vary, but in certain embodiments is from about 0.01 to about 5 weight percent, based on the total weight of the composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of the one or more thickening polymers is from about 0.01 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.01 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 5wt%, from about 0.1 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 5wt%, from about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, or from about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
Non-limiting examples of skin active agents include madecassoside, moisturizers, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkle agents, skin active agents for oily skin, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, skin whitening agents, and mixtures thereof. A more thorough list of useful miscellaneous components is included under the heading "miscellaneous component".
The miscellaneous ingredients may be included in the cosmetic composition, for example, in an amount of from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients may be about 0.01 to about 8wt%, about 0.01 to about 5wt%, about 0.01 to about 3wt%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, about 0.1 to about 8wt%, about 0.1 to about 5wt%, about 0.1 to about 3wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8wt%, about 1 to about 5wt%, or about 1 to about 3wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The silicone may optionally be included in a cosmetic composition, but preferably the composition is free or substantially free of silicone. Silicones are synthetic polymers composed of a combination of repeating units of siloxane, elemental silicon and oxygen, and other elements most commonly carbon and hydrogen. Thus, silicones are also known as polysiloxanes. In some cases, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may be free or substantially free of dimethicone, amino terminal dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclosiloxanes, silicones, and the like.
In certain embodiments, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprises:
(a) About 1 to about 5 weight percent of acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valyl glycine;
(b) About 10 to about 40 weight percent hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol;
(c) About 2 to about 15 weight percent of two or more taurate copolymers;
(d) About 0.5 to about 10 weight percent of one or more fatty alcohols;
(e) About 5 to about 25 weight percent of one or more fatty compounds;
(f) About 0.1 to about 10 weight percent of one or more nonionic emulsifiers; and
(G) Water;
Wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably a gel emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprises or consists of:
(a) About 1 to about 5 weight percent, preferably about 2 to about 4 weight percent, more preferably about 2 to about 4 weight percent, of acetyltrifluoromethylphenyl valyl glycine;
(b) From about 10 to about 40 weight percent, more preferably from about 10 to about 20 weight percent, and more preferably from about 12 to about 18 weight percent of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol;
(c) About 2 to about 15 weight percent, preferably about 2 to about 8 weight percent, more preferably about 2 to about 5 weight percent, of two or more, preferably three or more taurate copolymers selected from, for example, acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and mixtures thereof, preferably acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer;
(d) About 0.5 to about 10 weight percent, preferably about 0.5 to about 8 weight percent, more preferably about 1 to about 5 weight percent, of one or more fatty alcohols, preferably having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably selected from the group consisting of decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;
(e) About 5 to about 25 weight percent, preferably about 5 to about 20 weight percent, more preferably about 5 to about 15 weight percent of one or more fatty compounds, such as one or more fatty compounds selected from the group consisting of fatty esters (e.g., isononyl isononanoate), polyolefins (e.g., petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, vegetable and/or plant oil, hydrocarbon-based oils (e.g., isohexadecane), and mixtures thereof, more preferably from the group consisting of isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, squalene, soybean oil, and mixtures thereof;
(f) About 0.1 to about 10 weight percent, preferably about 0.1 to about 5, even more preferably about 0.1 to about 3 weight percent of one or more nonionic emulsifiers selected, for example, from alkanolamides, sorbitan fatty acid esters (e.g., sorbitan isostearate and sorbitan oleate), ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters (e.g., polysorbate-80), polyol esters, glycerol esters, polyglucosides (e.g., cetostearyl glucoside), glycerol ethers, oxyethylenated ethers, oxypropylether and ethylene glycol polymers, preferably selected from polysorbate 80, cetostearyl glucoside, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan oleate, mixtures thereof;
(g) About 40 to about 80 wt%, preferably about 40 to about 70 wt%, more preferably about 45 to about 65 wt% water;
(h) Optionally, one or more water-soluble solvents, such as one or more water-soluble solvents selected from glycerol, alcohols (e.g., C1-30, C1-15, C1-10, or C1-4 alcohols), organic solvents, polyols (polyhydroxy alcohols), glycols (e.g., propylene glycol, butylene glycol, octanediol, etc.), and mixtures thereof, preferably one or more glycols, particularly propylene glycol, wherein the one or more water-soluble solvents, if present, comprise from about 0.1 to about 20 wt%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 15 wt%, more preferably from about 1 to about 15 wt%, of the cosmetic composition;
(i) Optionally, one or more thickening polymers, different from the one or more taurate copolymers of (C), for example, selected from the group consisting of polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polyethylacrylates, polyacrylamides, poly-C10-30 alkyl acrylates, and mixtures thereof, preferably poly-C10-30 alkyl acrylates, wherein the one or more thickening polymers, if present, comprise from about 0.01 to about 5 wt%, preferably from about 0.05 to about 4 wt%, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 3 wt% of the cosmetic composition;
(j) Optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, for example one or more miscellaneous ingredients selected from the group consisting of: a miscellaneous emulsifier/surfactant other than the nonionic emulsifier of (f), a preservative, a perfume, a pH adjuster, a salt, a buffer, an antioxidant, a flavonoid, a vitamin, a plant extract, a UV filter, a protein hydrolysate and/or isolate, a hydrotrope, a pearlescer, a filler, a colorant, a matting agent, other skin active agents, a depigmenting agent, an anti-wrinkle agent, preferably wherein at least one of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients is other skin active agent such as madecassoside, wherein the one or more miscellaneous ingredients, if present, comprises from about 0.01 to about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, more preferably from about 1 to about 8 wt% of the cosmetic composition;
wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably a gel emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
As noted above, in certain embodiments, it is preferred to include three or more taurate copolymers in the cosmetic composition. The three or more taurate copolymers may be ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, preferably in the following amounts, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition:
from 0.1 to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.6 to 2% by weight, of an ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer,
From 0.7 to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.7 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.8 to 2% by weight, of acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and
From 0.1 to about 4% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.6 to 2% by weight, of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.
In a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises:
0.6 to 2% by weight of an ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer,
0.8 To 2% by weight of acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and
From 0.6 to 2% by weight of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprises or consists of:
(a) About 1 to about 5 weight percent, preferably about 2 to about 4 weight percent, more preferably about 2 to about 4 weight percent, of acetyltrifluoromethylphenyl valyl glycine;
(b) From about 10 to about 40 weight percent, more preferably from about 10 to about 20 weight percent, and more preferably from about 12 to about 18 weight percent of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol;
(c) About 2 to about 15 weight percent, preferably about 2 to about 8 weight percent, more preferably about 2 to about 5 weight percent, of two or more, preferably three or more, taurate copolymers selected from, for example, acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and mixtures thereof, preferably acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer;
(d) About 0.5 to about 10 wt%, preferably about 0.5 to about 8 wt%, more preferably about 1 to about 5 wt%, of one or more fatty alcohols having 10-30 carbon atoms, such as one or more fatty alcohols selected from the group consisting of decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, preferably comprising behenyl alcohol and cetostearyl alcohol;
(e) About 5 to about 25 weight percent, preferably about 5 to about 20 weight percent, more preferably about 5 to about 15 weight percent of one or more fatty compounds, such as one or more fatty compounds selected from the group consisting of fatty esters (e.g., isononyl isononanoate), polyolefins (e.g., petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, vegetable and/or plant oil, hydrocarbon-based oils (e.g., isohexadecane), and mixtures thereof, more preferably from the group consisting of isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, squalene, soybean oil, and mixtures thereof;
(f) About 0.1 to about 10 weight percent, preferably about 0.1 to about 5, even more preferably about 0.1 to about 3 weight percent of one or more nonionic emulsifiers selected from, for example, sorbitan fatty acid esters (e.g., sorbitan isostearate and sorbitan oleate), ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters (e.g., polysorbate-80), polyol esters, glycerides, polyglucosides (e.g., cetostearyl glucoside), preferably selected from polysorbate 80, cetostearyl glucoside, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan oleate, mixtures thereof;
(g) About 40 to about 80 wt%, preferably about 40 to about 70 wt%, more preferably about 45 to about 65 wt% water;
(h) About 0.1 to about 20 wt%, preferably about 0.1 to about 15 wt%, more preferably about 1 to about 15 wt%, of one or more water-soluble solvents, such as one or more water-soluble solvents selected from the group consisting of glycerin, alcohols (e.g., C1-30, C1-15, C1-10, or C1-4 alcohols), organic solvents, polyols (polyols), glycols (e.g., propylene glycol, butylene glycol, octanediol, etc.), and mixtures thereof, preferably one or more glycols, preferably propylene glycol;
(i) Optionally, one or more thickening polymers, different from the one or more taurate copolymers of (C), for example, selected from the group consisting of polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polyethylacrylates, polyacrylamides, poly-C10-30 alkyl acrylates, and mixtures thereof, preferably poly-C10-30 alkyl acrylates, wherein the one or more thickening polymers, if present, comprise from about 0.01 to about 5 wt%, preferably from about 0.05 to about 4 wt%, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 3 wt% of the cosmetic composition;
(j) From about 0.01 to about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, more preferably from about 1 to about 8 wt%, of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, for example one or more miscellaneous ingredients selected from among miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants other than the nonionic emulsifier of (f), preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusting agents, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, plant extracts, UV filters, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescers, fillers, colorants, matting agents, other skin active agents, decolorants, anti-wrinkle agents, preferably wherein at least one of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients is other skin active agent, preferably madecassoside;
Wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably a gel emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
As noted above, in some cases, three or more taurate copolymers may be included in the cosmetic composition. The three or more taurate copolymers may be ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, preferably in the following amounts, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition:
from 0.1 to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.6 to 2% by weight, of an ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer,
From 0.7 to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.7 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.8 to 2% by weight, of acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and
From 0.1 to about 4% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.6 to 2% by weight, of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises:
0.6 to 2% by weight of an ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer,
0.8 To 2% by weight of acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and
From 0.6 to 2% by weight of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.
The composition preferably has a pH of about 5.5 to about 8, preferably about 5.5 to about 7.5, more preferably about 5.5 to about 7.
The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure are stable. For example, the cosmetic composition does not visually phase separate or form visually observable particles when stored at 4 ℃, 25 ℃, 37 ℃ and/or 45 ℃ for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks.
In various embodiments, the cosmetic composition does not undergo visual phase separation or form visually observable particles in a freeze-thaw test of at least 10 cycles, wherein the freeze-thaw test comprises placing the cosmetic composition in a stabilization chamber and subjecting it to temperature fluctuations at 12 hour intervals, a first interval of 12 hours at-20 ℃, followed by a second interval of 12 hours at 25 ℃.
In various embodiments, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition does not change by more than 20%, 15%, 10% or 5% after storage at 4 ℃, 25 ℃, 37 ℃ and/or 45 ℃ for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks.
The cosmetic composition preferably has a viscosity of about 5,000 to about 200,000 pa-s at 25 ℃ and a shear rate of 1s -1 at 25 ℃. However, the process is not limited to the above-described process, the cosmetic composition may have a temperature of about 10,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 120,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 100,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 80,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 120,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 100,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 80,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 120,000pa.s, about 20,000pa.s, about 100,000 to about 100,000pa.s, about about 20,000 to about 80,000Pa.s, about30,000 to about 200,000Pa.s, about30,000 to about 180,000Pa.s, about30,000 to about 150,000Pa.s, about30,000 to about 120,000Pa.s, about30,000 to about 100,000Pa.s, about30,000 to about 80,000Pa.s, about 35,000 to about 200,000Pa.s, about 35,000 to about 180,000Pa.s, about 35,000 to about 150,000Pa.s, about 35,000 to about 120,000Pa.s, about 35,000 to about 100,000Pa.s, about 35,000 to about 80,000Pa.s, about 40,000to about 200,000Pa.s, about 40,000to about 180,000Pa.s, about 40,000to bout 150,000Pa.s to about 40,000 Pa.s, about 40,000to about 100,000Pa.s, about 40,000 Pa.s, and a shear rate of 1s -1 at 25 ℃.
Example 6
(Oil-in-water emulsion containing Acetyltrifluoromethylphenyl valyl glycine)
Example 7
(Comparative composition)
Example 8
(Stability test)
The compositions of example 1 and example 2 were subjected to stability studies and visually evaluated for phase separation and particle formation under a microscope. The composition was evaluated at the time of initial manufacture of the composition (T 0). The composition was again evaluated after 10 days of freeze-thaw testing. The composition was placed in a stabilization chamber and subjected to temperature fluctuations at 12-hour intervals. The composition was kept at-20℃for 12 hours. During the next 12 hours, the composition was maintained at 25 ℃. The cycle was repeated 10 times (10 days). The compositions of example 1 and example 2 were evaluated after storage for 2 weeks at 4 ℃, 25 ℃,37 ℃ and 45 ℃, after storage for 4 weeks (1 month) at 4 ℃, 25 ℃,37 ℃ and 45 ℃ and after storage for 8 weeks (2 months) at 4 ℃, 25 ℃,37 ℃ and 45 ℃, respectively, and phase separation was visually evaluated and particle formation was evaluated under a microscope.
The compositions of the present invention are considered stable ("Y") (yes) because they do not visually phase separate and do not form particles. However, the comparative compositions (C-1 to C-6) phase separated and formed particles. Thus, the comparative composition was considered unstable ("N") (no).
The data show, inter alia, the importance of including at least two taurate copolymers in an amount of at least 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Oil-in-water emulsion containing ceramide-NP
Ceramide NP represents "(9Z) -N- [ (2 s,3s,4 r) -1,3, 4-trihydroxybctadec-2-yl ] octadec-9-enamide). Ceramide NP consists of a phytosphingosine backbone N-acylated with saturated fatty acids (stearic acid). Ceramide NP provides many benefits to skin, such as rehydration of dry skin, reduction of itching, chronic dryness, antipruritic, desquamation, and reduction of flaking.
Typically, the amount of ceramide NP in the cosmetic composition is from about 0.1 wt% to about 5 wt% based on the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the amount of ceramide NP is from about 0.1 wt% to about 4.0 wt%, from about 0.1 wt% to about 3wt%, from about 0.2 wt% to about 5 wt%, from about 0.2 wt% to about 4 wt%, from about 0.2 wt% to about 2 wt%, from about 0.2 wt% to about 3wt%, from about 0.3 wt% to about 5 wt%, from about 0.3 wt% to about 4 wt%, from about 0.3 wt% to about 3wt%, based on the total weight of the composition
From about 0.3 wt% to about 2 wt%, from about 0.4 wt% to about 5 wt%, from about 0.4 wt% to about 4 wt%, from about 0.4 wt% to about 3 wt%, from about 0.4 wt% to about 2 wt%, from about 0.5 wt% to about 5 wt%, from about 0.5 wt% to about 4 wt%, from about 0.5 wt% to about 3 wt%, from about 0.5 wt% to about 2 wt%, or from about 0.5 wt% to about 1 wt%. In still further embodiments, the amount of ceramide NP is at least 0.1 wt%, at least 0.2 wt%, at least 0.3 wt%, at least 0.4 wt%, at least 0.5 wt%, or at least 0.6 wt%, and may have a maximum of about 1,2, 3, 4, or 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
In one aspect, the present disclosure relates particularly to cosmetic compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions. In one embodiment, a cosmetic composition comprises:
(a) Ceramide NP;
(b) Water;
(c) One or more first emulsifiers selected from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers;
(d) One or more second emulsifiers selected from glycerides having an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) of from about 3 to about 6;
(e) One or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids;
(f) One or more fatty alcohols; and
(G) One or more non-triglycerides and non-aromatic fatty compounds;
wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.
In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more of the following weight ratios of (a) and (c) - (g):
The weight ratio of the one or more first emulsifiers selected from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers to ceramide NP is from about 1.5:1 to about 8:1 ((c) to (a)); and/or
The weight ratio of the one or more second emulsifiers (selected from glycerides having an HLB of about 3 to about 6) to ceramide NP is about 0.8:1 to about 4:1 ((d) to (a)); and/or
The weight ratio of the one or more third emulsifiers (selected from ethoxylated fatty acids) to ceramide NP is from about 0.7:1 to about 4:1 ((e) to (a)); and/or
The weight ratio of the one or more fatty alcohols to ceramide NP is from about 0.7:1 to about 4:1 ((f) to (a)); and/or
The weight ratio of the one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds to ceramide NP is from about 4:1 to about 20:1 ((g): (a)).
The amount of water in the compositions of the present disclosure may and will vary depending on the amount of other components in the cosmetic composition. However, in certain embodiments, the amount of water in the composition is from about 50 to about 90 weight percent, based on the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the amount of water in the cosmetic composition is from about 55 to about 90 wt%, from about 60 to about 90 wt%, from about 65 to about 90 wt%, from about 70 to about 90 wt%, from about 60 to about 85 wt%, from about 65 to about 85 wt%, from about 70 to about 85 wt%, from about 60 to about 80 wt%, from about 65 to about 80 wt%, or from about 70 to about 80 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
Non-limiting examples of polyglycerol-based emulsifiers include polyglycerol 10-stearate, polyglycerol-3-decanoate, polyglycerol-3-diisostearate, polyglycerol-3-methyl glucose distearate or mixtures thereof. A more detailed, but non-limiting list of polyglycerol-based emulsifiers is included under the heading "polyglycerol-based emulsifiers".
The amount of the one or more first emulsifiers selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol-based emulsifiers varies, but in some embodiments is from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. In further embodiments, the amount of the one or more first emulsifiers selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol-based emulsifiers is from about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 2 wt%, from about 0.6 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.6 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.6 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.6 to about 2 wt%, from about 0.8 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.8 to about 3 wt%, or from about 0.8 to about 2 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
Non-limiting examples of glycerides having an HLB of about 3 to about 8 include glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl palmitoleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or mixtures thereof. In at least one instance, the glycerides include glyceryl stearate, glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. A more detailed, but non-limiting list of glycerides is provided under the heading "glycerol fatty acid esters".
Typically, the amount of the one or more second emulsifiers selected from glycerides having an HLB of from about 3 to about 6 may be from about 0.5 wt% to about 5wt% based on the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the amount of the one or more second emulsifiers selected from glycerides having an HLB of about 3 to about 6 may be about 0.2 to about 5wt%, about 0.2 to about 4 wt%, about 0.2 to about 3 wt%, about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, about 0.5 to about 2 wt%, about 0.6 to about 5wt%, about 0.6 to about 4 wt%, about 0.6 to about 3 wt%, about 0.6 to about 2 wt%, about 0.8 to about 4 wt%, about 0.8 wt% to about 3 wt%, or about 0.8 to about 2 wt%, about 1.0 to about 4 wt%, about 1.0 wt% to about 3 wt%, or about 1.0 to about 2 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
Non-limiting examples of ethoxylated fatty acids having 40-100 propylene oxide groups and a fatty acid chain of 12-24 carbons include lauric acid, tridecylic acid, myristic acid, pentadecylic acid, palmitic acid, margaric acid, stearic acid, nonadecylic acid, arachic acid, heneicosanoic acid, behenic acid, tricosanoic acid (tricosylic cid) and tetracosanoic acid, especially containing 40-100 propylene oxide groups. A more thorough, but non-limiting list of ethoxylated fatty acids is provided under the heading "ethoxylated fatty acids". "
The amount of the one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids will vary. However, in various embodiments, from about 0.5 wt% to about 5 wt% based on the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids is from about 0.2 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.2 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.2 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 2 wt%, from about 0.6 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.6 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.6 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.6 to about 2 wt%, from about 0.8 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.8 wt% to about 3 wt%, or from about 0.8 to about 2 wt%, from about 1.0 to about 4 wt%, from about 1.0 wt% to about 3 wt%, or from about 1.0 to about 2 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include those having 12 to 24 carbon atoms. For example a fatty alcohol selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl or myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol and mixtures thereof. A more thorough, but non-limiting, listing of fatty alcohols is provided under the heading "fatty alcohols".
The amount of one or more fatty alcohols in the cosmetic composition may vary, but in various embodiments is from about 0.2% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the amount of the one or more fatty alcohols in the composition is from about 0.2 to about 5wt%, from about 0.2 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.2 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.2 to about 2 wt%, from about 0.3 to about 5wt%, from about 0.3 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.3 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.3 to about 2 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 2 wt%, from about 0.7 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.7 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.7 to about 2 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
Non-limiting examples of non-triglycerides and non-aromatic fatty compounds include fatty esters (isopropyl myristate, sorbitan isostearate), sarcosinates (e.g., acyl sarcosinates), vegetable and/or vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of sarcosinates may be selected from the group consisting of sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium caproyl sarcosinate, TEA-cocoyl sarcosinate, ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, dimer di-lauroyl glutamate/lauroyl sarcosinate, disodium lauroyl amphodiacetate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, TEA-cocoyl sarcosinate, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, TEA-oleoyl sarcosinate, and combinations thereof. Other non-limiting examples of non-triglycerides and non-aromatic fatty compounds include under the heading "fatty compounds". "
The total amount of one or more non-triglycerides and non-aromatic fatty compounds will vary. However, in certain embodiments, the total amount of non-triglycerides and non-aromatic fatty compounds is from about 4 to about 20 weight percent, based on the total weight of the composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of the one or more non-triglycerides and non-aromatic fatty compounds is from about 1 to about 20 wt%, from about 1 to about 15 wt%, from about 1 to about 10 wt%, from about 2 to about 20 wt%, from about 2 to about 15 wt%, from about 2 to about 10 wt%, from about 3 to about 20 wt%, from about 3 to about 15 wt%, from about 3 to about 10 wt%, from about 4 to about 20 wt%, from about 4 to about 15 wt%, or from about 4 to about 10 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
In various embodiments, the cosmetic composition may optionally comprise one or more thickening polymers. A useful series of thickening polymers is provided under the heading "thickening polymers".
When present, the amount of one or more thickening polymers will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more thickening polymers is from about 0.01 to about 5 weight percent, based on the total weight of the composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of the one or more thickening polymers is from about 0.01 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.01 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, or from about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, from about 1 to about 5 wt%, from about 1 to about 4 wt%, or from about 1 to about 3 wt%, from about 1.5 to about 5 wt%, from about 1.5 to about 4 wt%, or from about 1.5 to about 3 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
In various embodiments, the cosmetic composition may optionally comprise one or more water-soluble solvents. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, glycerin, alcohols (e.g., C 1-30、C1-15、C1-10 or C 1-4 alcohols), organic solvents, polyols, glycols, and mixtures thereof. A more detailed but non-limiting list of water-soluble solvents is included under the heading "water-soluble solvents".
In various embodiments, silicone may optionally be included in the cosmetic composition, but preferably the composition is free or substantially free of silicone. Silicones are synthetic polymers composed of a combination of repeating units of siloxane, elemental silicon and oxygen, and other elements most commonly carbon and hydrogen. Thus, silicones are also known as polysiloxanes. In some cases, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may be free or substantially free of dimethicone, amino terminal dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclosiloxanes, silicones, and the like.
The total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents may vary and will vary, but is typically from about 1 to about 20 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some cases, the total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents may be about 1 to about 15 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, about 2 to about 20 wt%, about 2 to about 15 wt%, about 2 to about 10 wt%, about 2 to about 5 wt%, about 5 to about 20 wt%, about 5 to about 15 wt%, or about 5 to about 10 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Non-limiting examples of miscellaneous ingredients include miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants other than the dimethicone copolyol emulsifier of (d), preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, plant extracts, UV filters, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescers, fillers, colorants, matting agents, other skin-active agents, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkling agents, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one additional skin active agent, such as madecassoside. A more thorough, but non-limiting, listing of miscellaneous components is provided under the heading "miscellaneous components".
When present, the miscellaneous ingredients may be in an amount of from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients may be about 0.01 to about 8 wt%, about 0.01 to about 5 wt%, about 0.01 to about 3 wt%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, or about 1 to about 3 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprises:
(a) About 0.1 to about 5 weight percent ceramide NP;
(b) Water;
(c) About 0.5 to about 5 weight percent of one or more first emulsifiers selected from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers;
(d) About 0.5 to about 5 weight percent of one or more second emulsifiers selected from glycerides having an HLB of about 3 to about 6;
(e) About 0.5 to about 5 weight percent of one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids;
(f) About 0.2 to about 5 weight percent of one or more fatty alcohols; and
(G) About 4 to about 20 weight percent of one or more non-triglycerides and non-aromatic fatty compounds;
wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition, provided that one or more of the following ratios are applied:
The weight ratio of the one or more first emulsifiers selected from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers to ceramide NP is from about 1.5:1 to about 8:1 ((c) to (a)); and/or
The weight ratio of the one or more second emulsifiers to ceramide NP is from about 0.8:1 to about 4:1 ((d) to (a)), the second emulsifier being selected from glycerides having an HLB of from about 3 to about 6; and/or
The weight ratio of the one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids to ceramide NP is about 0.7:1 to about 4:1 ((e): a)); and/or
The weight ratio of the one or more fatty alcohols to ceramide NP is from about 0.7:1 to about 4:1 ((f) to (a));
the weight ratio of the one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds to ceramide NP is from about 4:1 to about 20:1 ((g): (a)).
In various embodiments, it is preferred that the cosmetic composition comprises one or more proportions associated with components (a) and (c) - (g).
In one embodiment, the weight ratio of the one or more first emulsifiers selected from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers to ceramide NP is from about 1.5:1 to about 8:1 ((c): a)), preferably from about 1.5:1 to about 5:1, more preferably from about 1.5:1 to about 3:1.
In one embodiment, the weight ratio of the one or more second emulsifiers selected from glycerides having an HLB of about 3 to about 6 to ceramide NP is about 0.8:1 to about 4:1 ((d): (a)), preferably 1:1 to about 3:1, more preferably about 1.2:1 to about 2.5:1.
In one embodiment, the weight ratio of the one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids to ceramide NP is from about 0.7:1 to about 4:1 ((e): a)), preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 3:1, more preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 2.5:1.
In one embodiment, the weight ratio of the one or more fatty alcohols to ceramide NP is from about 0.7:1 to about 4:1 ((f): (a)), preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 3:1, more preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 2.5:1.
In one embodiment, the weight ratio of the one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds to ceramide NP is from about 4:1 to about 20:1 ((g): (a)), preferably from about 5:1 to 15:1, more preferably from about 6:1 to 10:1.
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises the following proportions relating to components (a) and (c) - (g):
The weight ratio of the one or more first emulsifiers selected from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers to ceramide NP is from about 1.5:1 to about 8:1 ((c): (a)), preferably from about 1.5:1 to about 5:1, more preferably from about 1.5:1 to about 3:1;
The weight ratio of one or more second emulsifiers selected from glycerides having an HLB of about 3 to about 6 to ceramide NP is about 0.8:1 to about 4:1 ((d): (a)), preferably 1:1 to about 3:1, more preferably about 1.2:1 to about 2.5:1;
The weight ratio of the one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids to ceramide NP is from about 0.7:1 to about 4:1 ((e): (a)), preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 3:1, more preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 2.5:1;
the weight ratio of the one or more fatty alcohols to ceramide NP is from about 0.7:1 to about 4:1 ((f): (a)), preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 3:1, more preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 2.5:1; and
The weight ratio of the one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds to ceramide NP is from about 5:1 to about 20:1 ((g): (a)), preferably from about 5:1 to 15:1, more preferably from about 6:1 to 10:1.
In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprises or consists of:
(a) About 0.1 to about 5wt%, preferably about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, more preferably about 0.2 to about 2 wt%, even more preferably about 0.3 to about 1.5wt% ceramide NP;
(b) About 50 to about 90 wt%, preferably about 55 to about 80 wt%, more preferably about 55 to about 75 wt% water;
(c) About 0.5 to about 5 wt%, more preferably about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, even more preferably about 0.8 to about 3 wt% of one or more first emulsifiers selected from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers, preferably:
-polyglycerol esters of one or more C12-22 saturated, unsaturated and branched fatty acids, such as polyglycerol-4 isostearate, polyglycerol-3 oleate, polyglycerol-2-sesquioleate, triisoglyceryl stearate, diglycerol monooleate, tetraglycerol monooleate and mixtures thereof; and/or
One or more polyglycerol methyl glucose surfactants, for example polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate, polyglycerol-6 methyl glucose distearate, polyglycerol-10 methyl glucose distearate;
(d) From about 0.5 to about 5 weight percent, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 4 weight percent, even more preferably from about 0.8 to about 3 weight percent of one or more second emulsifiers selected from glycerides having an HLB of from about 3 to about 6, preferably from bis-diglyceride-polyacyl adipate-2, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolinate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitoleate, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl citrate stearate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from glyceryl stearate, di-diglyceride-polyacyl adipate, or mixtures thereof;
(e) About 0.5 to about 5 weight percent, preferably about 0.5 to about 4 weight percent, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3 weight percent, of one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids, preferably derived from fatty acids containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms and having 2 to 200 ethylene oxide molecules, more preferably from polyethoxylated stearates such as PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate, and mixtures thereof;
(f) About 0.2 to about 5 weight percent, preferably about 0.3 to about 4 weight percent, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3 weight percent of one or more fatty alcohols, preferably having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably selected from the group consisting of decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;
(g) About 4 to about 20 weight percent, preferably about 4 to about 15 weight percent, more preferably about 5 to about 10 weight percent of one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds, preferably selected from the group consisting of fatty esters (e.g., isopropyl myristate, sorbitan isostearate), acyl sarcosinates, oils, alkanes (paraffin), fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, waxes, lanolin, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from fatty ester acyl sarcosinates and mixtures thereof;
(h) Optionally, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, wherein preferably in an amount of about 10 to about 40 weight percent, more preferably about 10 to about 20 weight percent, and more preferably about 12 to about 18 weight percent, if present;
(i) Optionally, one or more thickening polymers, where present, may be present in an amount of about 0.01 to about 5wt%, preferably about 0.1 to about 4wt%, more preferably about 0.1 to about 3wt%, for example, polyacrylates (e.g., sodium polyacrylate), hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymers, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymers, acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymers, polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6, polyacrylamide, acrylic acid ester C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymers, and mixtures thereof;
(j) Optionally, one or more water-soluble solvents, where present, may be present in an amount of about 1 to about 20 weight percent, preferably about 1 to about 15 weight percent, more preferably about 5 to about 15 weight percent, such as glycerin, C 2-C6 monohydric alcohols, polyhydric alcohols (polyhydroxy alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof; and
(K) Optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, wherein the amount, if present, may be from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 6% by weight, such as miscellaneous ingredients selected from miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants, preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusting agents, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, plant extracts, UV filters, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescers, fillers, colorants, matting agents, other skin active agents, buffers, and mixtures thereof;
wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.
In a further embodiment, the cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprises or consists of:
(a) About 0.5 to about 5 wt%, preferably about 0.5 to about 3 wt% ceramide NP;
(b) About 50 to about 80 wt%, preferably about 60 to 80 wt% water;
(c) From about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, preferably from about 0.5 to about 4 weight percent, of one or more first emulsifiers selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol 10-stearate, polyglycerol-3-decanoate, polyglycerol-3-diisostearate, polyglycerol-3-methyl glucose distearate, and mixtures thereof;
(d) From about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, preferably from about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, of one or more second emulsifiers selected from glycerides having an HLB of from about 3 to about 10, such as from the group consisting of di-diglyceride-polyacyl adipate-2, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolin, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl citrate stearate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or mixtures thereof. In at least one instance, the glycerol ester comprises glycerol stearate, di-diglyceride polyacyl adipate, glycerol ricinoleate, or mixtures thereof;
(e) About 0.5 to about 5 weight percent, preferably about 0.5 to about 4 weight percent, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3 weight percent of one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids having 40-100 propylene oxide groups and fatty chains of 8-24 carbon atoms, preferably polyethoxylated stearates, such as PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate, and mixtures thereof;
(f) About 0.2 to about 5 wt%, preferably about 0.3 to about 4 wt%, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, of one or more fatty alcohols having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably selected from the group consisting of decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;
(g) About 4 to about 20 wt%, preferably about 4 to about 15 wt%, more preferably about 5 to about 10 wt%, of one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds selected from fatty esters, acyl sarcosinates, or mixtures thereof;
(h) Optionally, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, wherein preferably in an amount of about 10 to about 40 weight percent, more preferably about 10 to about 20 weight percent, and more preferably about 12 to about 18 weight percent, if present;
(i) Optionally, one or more thickening polymers, where present, may be present in an amount of about 0.01 to about 5wt%, preferably about 0.1 to about 4wt%, more preferably about 0.1 to about 3wt%, for example, polyacrylates (e.g., sodium polyacrylate), hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymers, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymers, acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymers, polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6, polyacrylamide, acrylic acid ester C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymers, and mixtures thereof;
(j) About 1 to about 15 weight percent of one or more water-soluble solvents selected from the group consisting of glycerin, C 2-C6 monohydric alcohols, polyhydric alcohols (polyhydroxy alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof; and
(K) Optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, wherein the amount, if present, may be from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 6% by weight, such as miscellaneous ingredients selected from miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants, preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusting agents, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, plant extracts, UV filters, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescers, fillers, colorants, matting agents, other skin active agents, buffers, and mixtures thereof;
Wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.
In addition to the various amounts of components (a) and (c) - (g) described above, in various embodiments, it is preferred that the cosmetic composition comprises one or more proportions associated with components (a) and (c) - (g) selected from the group consisting of:
The weight ratio of the one or more first emulsifiers selected from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers to ceramide NP is from about 1.5:1 to about 8:1 ((c): (a)), preferably from about 1.5:1 to about 5:1, more preferably from about 1.5:1 to about 3:1;
The weight ratio of one or more second emulsifiers selected from glycerides having an HLB of about 3 to about 6 to ceramide NP is about 0.8:1 to about 4:1 ((d): (a)), preferably 1:1 to about 3:1, more preferably about 1.2:1 to about 2.5:1;
The weight ratio of the one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids to ceramide NP is from about 0.7:1 to about 4:1 ((e): (a)), preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 3:1, more preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 2.5:1;
The weight ratio of the one or more fatty alcohols to ceramide NP is from about 0.7:1 to about 4:1 ((f): (a)), preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 3:1, more preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 2.5:1;
the weight ratio of the one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds to ceramide NP is from about 4:1 to about 20:1 ((g): (a)), preferably from about 5:1 to 15:1, more preferably from about 6:1 to 10:1.
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises the following proportions in relation to all components (a) and (c) - (g):
The weight ratio of the one or more first emulsifiers selected from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers to ceramide NP is from about 1.5:1 to about 8:1 ((c): (a)), preferably from about 1.5:1 to about 5:1, more preferably from about 1.5:1 to about 3:1;
The weight ratio of one or more second emulsifiers selected from glycerides having an HLB of about 3 to about 6 to ceramide NP is about 0.8:1 to about 4:1 ((d): (a)), preferably 1:1 to about 3:1, more preferably about 1.2:1 to about 2.5:1;
The weight ratio of the one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids to ceramide NP is from about 0.7:1 to about 4:1 ((e): (a)), preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 3:1, more preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 2.5:1;
the weight ratio of the one or more fatty alcohols to ceramide NP is from about 0.7:1 to about 4:1 ((f): (a)), preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 3:1, more preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 2.5:1; and
The weight ratio of the one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds to ceramide NP is from about 1:1 to about 20:1 ((g): (a)), preferably from about 2:1 to 20:1, more preferably from about 2:1 to 10:1.
The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure are preferably stable, and the ceramide NP is preferably dissolved. With respect to stability, in certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition does not visually phase separate or form visually observable particles after storage at 4 ℃, 25 ℃, 37 ℃ and/or 45 ℃ for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks.
In another embodiment, the cosmetic composition does not undergo visual phase separation or form visually observable particles in a freeze-thaw test of at least 10 cycles, wherein the freeze-thaw test comprises placing the cosmetic composition in a stabilization chamber and subjecting it to temperature fluctuations at 12 hour intervals, a first interval of 12 hours at-20 ℃, followed by a second interval of 12 hours at 25 ℃.
In another embodiment, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition does not change by more than 20%, 15%, 10% or 5% after storage at 4 ℃, 25 ℃,37 ℃ and/or 45 ℃ for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks.
The cosmetic composition preferably has a viscosity of about 5,000 to about 200,000pa.s at 25 ℃ and a shear rate of 1s -1 at 25 ℃. However, the cosmetic composition may have a viscosity of about 10,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 120,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 120,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 120,000, about 50,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 50,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 50,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 50,000 to about 120,000pa.s, about 70,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 70,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 70,000 to about 70,000 pa.s, about 70,000 to about 70,000 pa.s, about 25,000 to about 70,000 pa.s at 25 ℃.
Example 9
(Cosmetic composition)
Example 10
(Stability study)
Studies were performed to determine that ceramide NP is dissolved below 95 ℃. To determine the solubility of ceramide NP, components (a), (c), (d), (e), (f) and (g) were combined and heated to 95℃with constant stirring. If the mixture becomes transparent below 95℃it starts to dissolve. The mixture was then added to the hot water phase (85-90 ℃) (component (b)), homogenized, stirred, and cooled. The solubility is monitored by microscopy and visual changes (e.g., gritty feel). Compositions a and B of the present invention dissolved ceramide NP and were therefore designed to have a solubility of "Y" (yes) in the table of example 1. Comparative compositions C-1 to C-4 did not dissolve ceramide NP and were therefore designed to have a solubility of "N" (NO) in the table of example 1. Because comparative compositions C-1 to C-4 did not dissolve ceramide NP, no further stability testing was performed on these compositions.
Physical stability studies were performed on inventive compositions a and B of example 1 and phase separation was assessed visually and particle formation was assessed under a microscope. The composition was analyzed after initial preparation (T 0) of the composition. The composition was again analyzed after 10 days of freeze-thaw testing. For the freeze-thaw test, the composition was placed in a stabilization chamber and subjected to temperature fluctuations at 12 hour intervals. The composition was kept at-20℃for 12 hours. During the next 12 hours, the composition was maintained at 25 ℃. The cycle was repeated 10 times (10 days). Separately, after storage for 4 weeks (1 month) at 4 ℃, 25 ℃, 37 ℃ and 45 ℃ and after storage again for 8 weeks (2 months) at 4 ℃, 25 ℃, 37 ℃ and 45 ℃, the composition of example 1 was evaluated and visually phase separated, and particle formation was evaluated under a microscope.
The compositions of the present invention are considered stable ("Y") (yes) because they do not visually phase separate and do not form particles.
Water-in-silicone emulsions
The water-in-silicone emulsions of the present disclosure are characterized in that the emulsion comprises at least 70 wt% of an aqueous phase (internal phase) based on the total weight of the silicone emulsion. In addition, the water-in-silicone emulsion comprises one or more active agents, preferably one or more active agents that are stable and/or dissolved in the water or silicone phase of the emulsion. In a particularly preferred embodiment, at least one of the one or more active agents is hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol.
Water-in-silicone emulsions comprising hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol
The amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol in the cosmetic composition will vary. However, in one embodiment, the amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol is from about 10 wt% to about 50 wt% based on the total weight of the composition. In further embodiments, the amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol in the composition is from about 12 to about 50 wt%, from about 12 to about 45 wt%, from about 12 to about 40 wt%, from about 12 to about 35 wt%, from about 12 to about 30 wt%, from about 15 to about 50 wt%, from about 15 to about 45 wt%, from about 15 to about 40 wt%, from about 15 to about 35 wt%, from about 15 to about 30 wt%, from about 20 to about 50 wt%, from about 20 to about 45 wt%, from about 20 to about 40 wt%, from about 20 to about 35 wt%, from about 20 to about 30 wt%, from about 25 to about 50 wt%, from about 25 to about 45 wt%, from about 25 to about 40 wt%, from about 25 to about 35 wt%, from about 30 to about 50 wt%, from about 30 to about 45 wt%, from about 30 to about 40 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In one embodiment, the present disclosure relates in particular to a water-in-silicone emulsion, wherein the silicone emulsion is a cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, preferably used in the above amounts;
(b) One or more silicone oils;
(c) One or more non-emulsifying silicone elastomers;
(d) One or more dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers comprising at least one ethylene oxide group and at least one propylene oxide group;
(e) Water; and
(F) One or more water-soluble solvents.
Non-limiting examples of silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxane, dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclomethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cycloheptyl siloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclotrisiloxane, octyldimethicone (capryl dimethicone), octyltrimethicone (caprylyl trimethicone), octanoyl polysiloxane, cetostearyl polysiloxane, cetyl polysiloxane, hexyl polysiloxane, lauryl polysiloxane, myristyl polysiloxane, phenyl polysiloxane, stearyl polydimethylsiloxane, behenyl polydimethylsiloxane, dimethylpoly siloxane, polyphenyl polysiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenyl polysiloxane, methyl polysiloxane, diphenyl siloxyphenyl polysiloxane, and phenyl polysiloxane, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, polydimethylsiloxane is a particularly useful silicone oil. A more detailed but non-limiting list of useful silicone oils is included under the heading "silicone oil".
The total amount of the one or more silicone oils in the cosmetic composition will vary, but in various embodiments is from about 5 to about 50 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of the one or more silicone oils is from about 5 to about 45 wt%, from about 5 to about 40 wt%, from about 5 to about 35 wt%, from about 10 to about 45 wt%, from about 10 to about 40 wt%, from about 10 to about 35 wt%, from about 15 to about 50 wt%, from about 15 to about 45 wt%, from about 15 to about 40 wt%, from about 15 to about 35 wt%, from about 20 to about 50 wt%, from about 20 to about 45 wt%, from about 20 to about 40 wt%, from about 20 to about 35 wt%, from about 25 to about 50 wt%, from about 25 to about 45 wt%, from about 25 to about 40 wt%, or from about 25 to about 35 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Non-limiting examples of non-emulsifying silicone elastomers include polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymers, vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymers, polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymers, polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer-3, polysiloxane-11, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymers are particularly useful silicone elastomers. A more detailed but non-limiting list of useful non-emulsifying silicone elastomers is included under the heading "non-emulsifying silicone elastomer".
The total amount of the one or more non-emulsifying silicone elastomers may be from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of the one or more non-emulsifying silicone elastomers may be an amount of about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, or about 1 to about 3 wt%, 1.5 to about 10 wt%, about 1.5 to about 8 wt%, about 1.5 to about 5 wt%, or about 1.5 to about 3 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Non-limiting examples of dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers comprising at least one ethylene oxide group and at least one propylene oxide group include bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone, bis-isobutyl PEG/PPG-10/7 dimethicone copolymer, bis-PEG/PPG-18/6 dimethicone; bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 polydimethylsiloxane, bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 polydimethylsiloxane, cetyl PEG/PPG-15/16 butyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, cetyl PEG/PPG-15/15 butyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, cetyl PEG/PPG-7/3 polydimethylsiloxane, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane PEG/PPG-7/4 phosphate, polydimethylsiloxane PEG/PPG-12/4 phosphate, PEG/PPG-28/21 acetate polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-22/22 butyl ether polydimethylsiloxane PEG/PPG-23/23 butyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-24/18 butyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-3/10 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-4/12 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-6/11 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-8/14 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-12/16 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-12/18 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-14/4 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-15/5 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-15/15 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-16/2 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-16/8 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-17/18 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-18/12 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-19/19 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-20/6 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-20/15 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-20/20 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-20/29 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-22/23 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-22/24 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-25/25 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-27/27 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-30/10 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-10/3 oleyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, and mixtures thereof. A more thorough, but non-limiting, list of dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers is provided under the heading "dimethicone copolyol emulsifier".
The total amount of one or more dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers will vary, but in various embodiments is from about 0.1 to about 10 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of the one or more dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers is about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5wt%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt%, about 0.5 to about 5wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 5wt%, or about 1 to about 3 wt%, 1.5 to about 10 wt%, about 1.5 to about 8 wt%, about 1.5 to about 5wt%, or about 1.5 to about 3 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The weight ratio of the one or more non-emulsifying silicone elastomers (c) to the one or more dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers (d) may vary. In one embodiment, the ratio of the one or more non-emulsifying silicone elastomers (c) to the one or more dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers (d) is from about 1:10 to about 10:1, from about 1:8 to 8:1, from about 1:6 to about 6:1, from about 1:5 to about 5:1, from about 1:4 to 4:1, from about 1:3 to about 3 to about 1. In other embodiments, the ratio of the one or more non-emulsifying silicone elastomers (c) to the one or more dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers (d) is from about 1:5 to about 5:1, from about 1:4 to about 4:1, from about 1:3 to about 3:1, or from about 1:2 to about 2:1.
The amount of water in the cosmetic composition may and will vary depending on the amount of other components in the cosmetic composition. In one embodiment, the total amount of water in the composition is from about 0.1 to about 70 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of water is from 0.1 to about 60 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 50 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 40 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 30 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 20 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, or from about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further preferred embodiments, the amount of water in the cosmetic composition is from 5 to about 50 wt%, from about 10 to about 45 wt%, from about 10 to about 40 wt%, from about 10 to about 35 wt%, from about 15 to about 50 wt%, from about 15 to about 45 wt%, from about 15 to about 40 wt%, from about 15 to about 35 wt%, from about 20 to about 50 wt%, from about 20 to about 45 wt%, from about 20 to about 40 wt%, from about 20 to about 35 wt%, from about 25 to about 50 wt%, from about 25 to about 45 wt%, from about 25 to about 40 wt%, or from about 25 to about 35 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include glycerin, monohydric alcohols, polyhydric alcohols (polyhydroxy alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the one or more water-soluble solvents may be selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, t-butanol, and mixtures thereof. A more detailed but non-limiting list of useful water-soluble solvents is provided under the heading "water-soluble solvents".
The total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents will vary, but in certain embodiments is from about 0.1 to about 50 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents may be about 0.1 to about 40 wt%, about 0.1 to about 30 wt%, about 0.1 to about 20 wt%, 0.1 to about 15 wt%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5wt%, about 1 to about 20 wt%, about 1 to about 15 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, or about 1 to about 5wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition may optionally comprise one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Non-limiting examples of miscellaneous ingredients include miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants other than the dimethicone copolyol emulsifier of (d), preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, plant extracts, UV filters, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescers, fillers, colorants, matting agents, other skin-active agents, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkling agents, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one additional skin active agent, such as madecassoside. A more thorough, but non-limiting, listing of miscellaneous components is provided under the heading "miscellaneous components".
The miscellaneous ingredients may be included in the cosmetic composition, for example, in an amount of from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients may be about 0.01 to about 8 wt%, about 0.01 to about 5 wt%, about 0.01 to about 3 wt%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, or about 1 to about 3 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In one embodiment, a cosmetic composition in the form of water in a silicone emulsion comprises:
(a) About 10 to about 50 weight percent hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol;
(b) About 5 to about 50 weight percent of one or more silicone oils;
(c) About 0.1 to about 10 weight percent of one or more non-emulsifying silicone elastomers;
(d) About 0.1 to about 10 weight percent of one or more dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers comprising at least one ethylene oxide group and at least one propylene oxide group;
(e) Water; and
(F) About 0.1 to about 40 weight percent of one or more water-soluble solvents;
wherein the composition is in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.
In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition in the form of water in the silicone emulsion comprises or consists of:
(a) From about 10 to about 50 wt%, preferably from about 15 to about 40wt%, more preferably from about 25 to about 40wt% of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol;
(b) About 10 to about 50 wt%, preferably about 15 to about 40 wt%, more preferably about 20 to about 30 wt%, of one or more silicone oils, preferably one or more silicone oils selected from the group consisting of: silicone oils of polydimethylsiloxane, dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclomethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cycloheptyl siloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclotrisiloxane, octyldimethicone, octyltrimethicone, octylmethylsiloxane, cetostearyl methylsiloxane, hexadecylmethyl siloxane, hexylmethylsiloxane, lauryl methylsiloxane, myristylmethylsiloxane, phenylmethylsiloxane, stearyl methylsiloxane, stearyl polydimethylsiloxane, behenyl polydimethylsiloxane, trifluoropropylmethylsiloxane, cetyl polydimethylsiloxane, polyphenyl methylsiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenyl polysiloxane, methyl polytrimethylsiloxane, diphenyl siloxyphenyl polytrimethylsiloxane, phenyl polytrimethylsiloxane and mixtures thereof, more preferably polydimethylsiloxane;
(c) From about 0.1 to 10 weight percent, preferably from about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, more preferably from about 1 to about 5 weight percent, of one or more non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, preferably selected from the group consisting of dimethicone cross-linked polymers, (dimethicone/phenyldimethicone) cross-linked polymers, (dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone/methyl silicone) cross-linked polymers, (dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone) cross-linked polymers and (diphenyl dimethicone/vinyl diphenyl dimethicone/silsesquioxane) cross-linked polymers and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from the group consisting of dimethicone cross-linked polymers, vinyl dimethicone cross-linked polymers, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone cross-linked polymers-3, silicone-11 and mixtures thereof;
(d) About 0.1 to about 10 weight percent, preferably about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, of one or more dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers comprising at least one ethylene oxide group and at least one propylene oxide group, preferably one or more C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers comprising at least one ethylene oxide group and at least one propylene oxide group, such as bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone, bis-isobutyl PEG/PPG-10/7 dimethicone copolymer, bis-PEG/PPG-18/6 dimethicone; bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 polydimethylsiloxane, bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 polydimethylsiloxane, cetyl PEG/PPG-15/16 butyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, cetyl PEG/PPG-15/15 butyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, cetyl PEG/PPG-7/3 polydimethylsiloxane, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane PEG/PPG-7/4 phosphate, polydimethylsiloxane PEG/PPG-12/4 phosphate, PEG/PPG-28/21 acetate polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-22/22 butyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-23/23 butyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-24/18 butyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-3/10 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-4/12 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-6/11 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-8/14 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-12/16 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-12/18 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-14/4 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-15/5 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-15/15 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-16/2 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-16/8 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-17/18 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-18/12 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-19/19 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-20/6 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-20/15 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-20/20 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-20/29 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-22/23 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-22/24 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-25/25 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-27/27 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-30/10 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-10/3 oleyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, and mixtures thereof, preferably, one of the one or more dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers is a dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosslinked polymer;
wherein the weight ratio of (c) to (d) is from about 5:1 to about 1:5, preferably from about 4:1 to about 1:4, more preferably from about 3:1 to about 1:3, and even more preferably from about 2:1 to about 1:2;
(e) About 10 to about 50 wt%, preferably about 15 to about 45 wt% of one or more, preferably about 25 to about 40 wt% of water; and
(F) About 0.1 to about 20 weight percent, preferably about 0.1 to about 15 weight percent, more preferably about 1 to about 10 weight percent, of one or more water-soluble solvents, preferably one or more water-soluble solvents selected from the group consisting of glycerin, C 1-C5 monohydric alcohols, polyhydric alcohols (polyhydroxy alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, t-butanol, and mixtures thereof;
(g) Optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, for example miscellaneous ingredients selected from the group consisting of miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants other than the dimethicone copolyol emulsifier of (d), preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusting agents, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, plant extracts, UV filters, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescers, fillers, colorants, matting agents, other skin active agents, buffers, and mixtures thereof, preferably, the one or more miscellaneous ingredients comprise one or more other skin active agents, wherein the amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients, if present, may be from about 0.01 to about 10 weight percent, preferably from about 0.1 to about 8 weight percent, more preferably from about 1 to about 6 weight percent;
wherein the composition is in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.
In a further embodiment, the cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion comprises or consists of:
(a) From about 10 to about 50 wt%, preferably from about 15 to about 40wt%, more preferably from about 25 to about 40wt% of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol;
(b) About 10 to about 50 weight percent, preferably about 15 to about 40 weight percent, more preferably about 20 to about 30 weight percent, of one or more silicone oils, preferably one or more silicone oils selected from the group consisting of dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclomethicone, phenyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof, more preferably dimethicone;
(c) From about 0.1 to about 10 weight percent, preferably from about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, more preferably from about 1 to about 5 weight percent, of one or more non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, wherein the one or more non-emulsifying silicone elastomers are selected from the group consisting of dimethicone crosslinked polymer, vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, dimethicone crosslinked polymer-3, polysiloxane-11, and mixtures thereof, preferably dimethicone crosslinked polymer;
(d) About 0.1 to 10 weight percent, preferably about 0.1 to 5 weight percent, of one or more dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers comprising at least one ethylene oxide group and at least one propylene oxide group, preferably C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers comprising at least one ethylene oxide group and at least one propylene oxide group, for example, bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone, bis-isobutyl PEG/PPG-10/7 dimethicone copolymer, bis-PEG/PPG-18/6 dimethicone; bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 polydimethylsiloxane, bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 polydimethylsiloxane, cetyl PEG/PPG-15/16 butyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, cetyl PEG/PPG-15/15 butyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, cetyl PEG/PPG-7/3 polydimethylsiloxane, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane PEG/PPG-7/4 phosphate, polydimethylsiloxane PEG/PPG-12/4 phosphate, PEG/PPG-28/21 acetate polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-22/22 butyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-23/23 butyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-24/18 butyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-3/10 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-4/12 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-6/11 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-8/14 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-12/16 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-12/18 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-14/4 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-15/5 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-15/15 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-16/2 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-16/8 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-17/18 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-18/12 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-19/19 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-20/6 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-20/15 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-20/20 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-20/29 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-22/23 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-22/24 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-25/25 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-27/27 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-30/10 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-10/3 oleyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, and mixtures thereof, preferably, one of the one or more dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers is a dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosslinked polymer;
wherein the weight ratio of (c) to (d) is from about 5:1 to about 1:5, preferably from about 4:1 to about 1:4, more preferably from about 3:1 to about 1:3, and even more preferably from about 2:1 to about 1:2;
(e) About 10 to about 50 wt%, preferably about 15 to about 45 wt% of one or more, preferably about 25 to about 40 wt% of water; and
(F) About 0.1 to about 20 weight percent, preferably about 0.1 to about 15 weight percent, more preferably about 1 to about 10 weight percent, of one or more water-soluble solvents, preferably one or more water-soluble solvents selected from the group consisting of glycerin, C 1-C5 monohydric alcohols, polyhydric alcohols (polyhydroxy alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, t-butanol, and mixtures thereof;
(g) About 0.01 to about 10 wt%, preferably about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, more preferably about 1 to about 6 wt% of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, wherein at least one of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients is an additional skin active agent, preferably madecassoside;
wherein the composition is preferably a water-in-silicone emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic composition is stable. For example, in one embodiment, the cosmetic composition does not visually phase separate or form visually observable particles after storage at 4 ℃, 25 ℃, 37 ℃ and/or 45 ℃ for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks.
In another embodiment, the cosmetic composition does not undergo visual phase separation or form visually observable particles in a freeze-thaw test of at least 10 cycles, wherein the freeze-thaw test comprises placing the cosmetic composition in a stabilization chamber and subjecting it to temperature fluctuations at 12 hour intervals, a first interval of 12 hours at-20 ℃, followed by a second interval of 12 hours at 25 ℃.
In one embodiment, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition does not change by more than 20%, 15%, 10% or 5% after storage at 4 ℃, 25 ℃, 37 ℃ and/or 45 ℃ for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks.
The cosmetic composition preferably has a viscosity of about 5,000 to about 200,000pa.s at 25 ℃ and a shear rate of 1s -1 at 25 ℃. However, in further embodiments, the composition has a viscosity of about 10,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 120,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 100,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 80,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 120,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 100,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 80,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 120,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 100,000pa.s, about 20,000pa.s, about 100,000 to about 100,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 35,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 35,000 to about 35,000 pa.s, about 35,000 to about 80,000pa.s, about 35,000 to about 35,000 pa.s, about 35,000 to about 30,000 pa.s.
Example 11
(Water-in-Silicone emulsion with hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol)
* Comparative compositions C-1 and C-2 did not form an emulsion.
Example 12
(Stability test)
The composition of example 9 was subjected to stability studies and visually evaluated for phase separation and particle formation under a microscope. The visual color change of the composition was also evaluated. The composition was evaluated at the time of initial manufacture (T 0) of the composition. The composition was again evaluated after 10 days of freeze-thaw testing. The composition was placed in a stabilization chamber and subjected to temperature fluctuations at 12-hour intervals. The composition was kept at-20℃for 12 hours. During the next 12 hours, the composition was maintained at 25 ℃. The cycle was repeated 10 times (10 days).
Separately, after storage for 4 weeks (1 month) at 4 ℃, 25 ℃, 37 ℃ and 45 ℃ and after storage for 8 more weeks (2 months) at 4 ℃, 25 ℃, 37 ℃ and 45 ℃, the composition of example 9 was evaluated, and phase separation was visually evaluated, and particle formation was evaluated under a microscope.
Compositions a and B of the present invention are considered stable ("Y") (yes) because they do not visually phase separate, retain their color, and do not form particles. Comparative compositions C-1 and C-2 were not subjected to stability testing because they failed to form emulsions that could be further tested.
Water-in-silicone emulsions comprising hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol
In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion comprises hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol. In one embodiment, the amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol in the cosmetic composition is from about 15% to about 60% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol in the composition is from about 15 to about 55 wt%, from about 15 to about 50 wt%, from about 15 to about 45 wt%, from about 15 to about 40 wt%, from about 15 to about 35 wt%, from about 15 to about 30 wt%, from about 15 to about 25 wt%, from about 20 to about 60 wt%, from about 20 to about 55 wt%, from about 20 to about 50 wt%, from about 20 to about 45 wt%, from about 20 to about 40 wt%, from about 20 to about 35 wt%, from about 20 to about 30 wt%, from about 25 to about 60 wt%, from about 25 to about 55 wt%, from about 25 to about 50 wt%, from about 25 to about 45 wt%, from about 25 to about 40 wt%, from about 25 to about 35 wt%, from about 30 to about 55 wt%, from about 30 to about 50 wt%, from about 30 to about 45 wt%, from about 30 to about 40 wt%, from about 35 to about 55 wt%, from about 35 to about 60 wt%, from about 35 to about 50 wt%, from about 35 to about 45 wt%, from about 40 to about 40 wt%, from about 40 wt%, or from about 55 wt% to about 50 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion comprises:
(a) Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, preferably used in the above amounts;
(b) Water;
(d) One or more silicone oils;
(d) One or more crosslinked emulsified silicone elastomers; and
(E) One or more co-emulsifier silicones selected from dimethicone copolyols;
Wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.
The amount of water in the cosmetic composition will vary depending on the amount of other components in the cosmetic composition. However, in certain embodiments, the amount of water in the composition may be from about 10 to about 60 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the amount of water in the cosmetic composition is from about 10 to about 55 wt%, from about 10 to about 50 wt%, from about 15 to about 60 wt%, from about 15 to about 55 wt%, from about 15 to about 50 wt%, from about 15 to about 45 wt%, from about 15 to about 40 wt%, from about 15 to about 30 wt%, from about 15 to about 25 wt%, from about 20 to about 60 wt%, from about 20 to about 55 wt%, from about 20 to about 50 wt%, from about 20 to about 45 wt%, from about 20 to about 40 wt%, from about 30 to about 50 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Non-limiting examples of silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxane, dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclomethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cycloheptyl siloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclotrisiloxane, octyldimethicone, octyltrimethicone, octylmethicone, cetostearyl methicone, cetyl methicone, hexyl methicone, lauryl methicone, myristyl methicone, phenyl methicone, stearyl dimethicone, behenyl dimethicone, trifluoropropyl dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone, polyphenyl dimethicone, methylphenyl polysiloxane, methyltrimethylpolysiloxane, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, and phenyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof. A more detailed but non-limiting list of useful silicone oils is included under the heading "silicone oil".
The total amount of silicone oil in the cosmetic composition will vary, but in certain embodiments is from about 5to about 25 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of the one or more silicone oils is from about 5to about 20 wt%, from about 5to about 15 wt%, from about 5to about 12 wt%, from about 6to about 25 wt%, from about 6to about 20 wt%, from about 6to about 15 wt%, or from about 6to about 12 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Non-limiting examples of cross-linked emulsifying silicone elastomers include polyoxyalkylenated emulsifying silicone elastomers, polyglycerolated emulsifying silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof. In addition, in the case of the optical fiber, non-limiting examples of the polyoxyalkylenated emulsified silicone elastomer include polydimethylsiloxane/PEG-10/15 crosslinked polymer, PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-10 lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-12 dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-3 to PEG-32 dimethicone (e.g., PEG-10 dimethicone), dimethicone/dimethicone PEG/PPG 15 crosslinked polymer, dimethicone PEG-10 crosslinked polymer polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 crosslinked polymer, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-15 crosslinked polymer, polydimethylsiloxane polyglycerin-3 crosslinked polymer, polydimethylsiloxane PPG-20 crosslinked polymer, lauryl polydimethylsiloxane PEG-15 crosslinked polymer, lauryl polydimethylsiloxane polyglycerin-3 crosslinked polymer, PEG-8 polydimethylsiloxane-20 crosslinked polymer, PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer, PEG-10 lauryl polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer, PEG-15/lauryl polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer, PEG-15 lauryl polydimethylsiloxane ethyl crosslinked polymer, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition may include two or more polyoxyalkylenated emulsified silicone elastomers. A more thorough, but non-limiting list of crosslinked emulsifying silicone elastomers is provided under the heading "crosslinked emulsifying silicone elastomers".
The total amount of the one or more crosslinked emulsified silicone elastomers will vary, but in certain embodiments is from about 0.1 to about 10 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of the one or more crosslinked emulsified silicone elastomers is from about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 10 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 8 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, from about 1 to about 10 wt%, from about 1 to about 8 wt%, from about 1 to about 5 wt%, or from about 1 to about 3 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Non-limiting examples of co-emulsifier silicones selected from the group consisting of dimethicone copolyols include dimethicone PEG-8 benzoate, dimethicone PEG-7 phosphate, dimethicone PEG-8 phosphate, dimethicone PEG-10 phosphate, PEG-7 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-14 dimethicone, PEG-17 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-17/18 dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, and mixtures thereof. PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane is particularly preferred. A more detailed but non-limiting list of co-emulsifier silicones is provided under the heading "co-emulsifying silicones".
The total amount of the optional co-emulsifying silicone(s), if present, will vary, but in certain embodiments is from about 0.01 to about 5 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of the one or more co-emulsifying silicones is from about 0.01 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.01 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.01 to about 2wt%, from about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, or from about 0.1 to about 2wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes one or more water-soluble solvents. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include glycerin, monohydric alcohols, polyhydric alcohols (polyhydroxy alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the one or more water-soluble solvents may be selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, t-butanol, and mixtures thereof. A more detailed but non-limiting list of useful water-soluble solvents is provided under the heading "water-soluble solvents".
The total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents may and will vary, but in certain embodiments is from about 1 to about 45 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents is from about 1 to about 40 wt%, from about 1 to about 35 wt%, from about 1 to about 30 wt%, from about 3 to about 45 wt%, from about 3 to about 40 wt%, from about 3 to about 35 wt%, from about 3 to about 30 wt%, from about 3 to about 25 wt%, from about 5 to about 45 wt%, from about 5 to about 40 wt%, from about 5 to about 35 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes one or more silicone powders. Non-limiting examples include those selected from the group consisting of (polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane) cross-linked polymers, (polydimethylsiloxane/phenyl vinyl polydimethylsiloxane) cross-linked polymers, (vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/lauryl polydimethylsiloxane) cross-linked polymers, (vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polydimethylsiloxane silsesquioxane) cross-linked polymers, (diphenylpolydimethylsiloxane/vinyl diphenylpolydimethylsiloxane/silsesquioxane) cross-linked polymers, polysiloxane-1 cross-linked polymers, polysiloxane-22, polyalkylsilsesquioxanes (e.g., polymethylsilsesquioxanes), polysiloxane-11, and polyarylsilsesquioxanes, and mixtures thereof.
Silicone powders may be added to the cosmetic composition, but are not typically maintained in powder form after incorporation into the cosmetic composition. Silicone powders will typically dissolve after incorporation into a cosmetic composition. Non-limiting examples of silicone powders include (polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane) crosslinked polymers, (polydimethylsiloxane/phenyl vinyl polydimethylsiloxane) crosslinked polymers, (vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/lauryl polydimethylsiloxane) crosslinked polymers, (vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsilsesquioxane) crosslinked polymers, (diphenylpolydimethylsiloxane/vinyl diphenylpolydimethylsiloxane/silsesquioxane) crosslinked polymers, polysiloxane-1 crosslinked polymers, polysiloxane-22, polyalkylsilsesquioxanes (e.g., polymethylsilsesquioxanes). Preferred silicone powders include polyalkyl silsesquioxanes (e.g., polymethylsilsesquioxane), vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxanes, polysiloxane-11, and mixtures thereof.
The total amount of the one or more silicone powders in the cosmetic composition will vary, but in certain embodiments is from about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of the one or more silicone powders is from about 0.1 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 2 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 2 wt%, from about 1 to about 5 wt%, from about 1 to about 4 wt%, from about 1 to about 3 wt%, or from about 1 to about 2 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition may optionally comprise one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Non-limiting examples of miscellaneous ingredients include miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants other than the dimethicone copolyol emulsifier of (d), preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, plant extracts, UV filters, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescers, fillers, colorants, matting agents, other skin-active agents, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkling agents, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one additional skin active agent, such as madecassoside. A more thorough, but non-limiting, listing of miscellaneous components is provided under the heading "miscellaneous components".
The miscellaneous ingredients may be included in the cosmetic composition, for example, in an amount of from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients may be about 0.01 to about 8wt%, about 0.01 to about 5wt%, about 0.01 to about 3wt%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, about 0.1 to about 8wt%, about 0.1 to about 5wt%, about 0.1 to about 3wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8wt%, about 1 to about 5wt%, or about 1 to about 3wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion comprises or consists of:
(a) From about 10 to about 55 weight percent, preferably from about 20 to about 55 weight percent, more preferably from about 30 to about 50 weight percent, of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol;
(b) About 15 to about 50 wt%, preferably about 20 to about 50 wt%, more preferably about 25 to about 50 wt% water;
(c) About 5 to about 25 weight percent of one or more silicone oils, preferably one or more non-volatile silicone oils, more preferably one or more silicone oils selected from the group consisting of dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysiloxane-11, phenyl trimethicone, amino terminal dimethicone, and mixtures thereof, preferably one of the one or more silicone oils is dimethicone;
(d) From about 0.1 to about 10 weight percent, preferably from about 0.5 to about 5 weight percent, more preferably from about 1 to about 4 weight percent, of one or more crosslinked emulsified silicone elastomers, preferably one or more polyoxyalkylenated emulsified silicone elastomers, more preferably selected from the group consisting of dimethicone/PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer, PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone PPG-20 cross-linked polymer, PEG-10 lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-12 dimethicone cross-linked polymer, dimethicone/PEG/PPG 15 cross-linked polymer, dimethicone PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer, dimethicone PEG-15 cross-linked polymer, dimethicone polyglycerin-3 cross-linked polymer, dimethicone PPG-20 cross-linked polymer, lauryl dimethicone PEG-15 cross-linked polymer, lauryl dimethicone polyglycerin-3 cross-linked polymer, PEG-8 dimethicone polysorbate-20 cross-linked polymer, PEG-10 dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone cross-10, PEG-10 dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone cross-15 cross-linked polymer, PEG-15 cross-linked polymer, even more preferred are polydimethylsiloxane/PEG-10/15 crosslinked polymers;
(e) About 0.01 to about 5 wt%, preferably about 0.01 to about 3 wt%, more preferably about 0.1 to about 2 wt%, of one or more co-emulsifying silicones selected from the group consisting of: a dimethicone copolyol, for example a dimethicone copolyol selected from the group consisting of: polydimethylsiloxane PEG-8 benzoate, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-7 phosphate, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-8 phosphate, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10 phosphate, PEG-7 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-8 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-12 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-14 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-17 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-3/10 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-4/12 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-17/18 polydimethylsiloxane, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane and mixtures thereof, in particular PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane;
(f) Optionally, one or more water-soluble solvents, such as glycerin, C 2-C6 monohydric alcohols, polyhydric alcohols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof, wherein the amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents, if present, may optionally be from about 5 to about 45 weight percent, preferably from about 10 to about 40 weight percent, more preferably from about 15 to about 35 weight percent;
(g) Optionally, one or more silicone powders, such as (polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane) cross-linked polymer, (polydimethylsiloxane/phenyl vinyl polydimethylsiloxane) cross-linked polymer, (vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/lauryl polydimethylsiloxane) cross-linked polymer, (vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane) cross-linked polymer, (diphenyl polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl diphenyl polydimethylsiloxane/silsesquioxane) cross-linked polymer, polysiloxane-1 cross-linked polymer, polysiloxane-22, polyalkylsilsesquioxanes (e.g., polymethylsilsesquioxanes). Preferred silicone powders include polyalkylsilsesquioxanes (e.g., polymethylsilsesquioxanes), vinyl polydimethylsilsesquioxanes/polymethylsilsesquioxanes, polysiloxane-11, and mixtures thereof, wherein the amount, if present, may be from about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, preferably from about 0.1 to about 4 weight percent, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 3 weight percent;
(h) Optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, such as miscellaneous ingredients selected from the group consisting of miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants other than the crosslinked emulsified silicone elastomer of (d), preservatives, fragrances, pH modifiers, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, plant extracts, UV filters, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescers, fillers, colorants, matting agents, other skin-active agents, buffers, and mixtures thereof, wherein the amount thereof, if present, may be from about 0.01 to about 10 weight percent, preferably from about 0.1 to about 8 weight percent, more preferably from about 1 to about 6 weight percent;
Wherein the composition is preferably a water-in-silicone emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.
In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion comprises or consists of:
(a) From about 10 to about 55 weight percent, preferably from about 20 to about 55 weight percent, more preferably from about 30 to about 50 weight percent, of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol;
(b) About 15 to about 50 wt%, preferably about 20 to about 50 wt%, more preferably about 25 to about 50 wt% water;
(c) About 5 to about 25 weight percent of one or more silicone oils, preferably one or more non-volatile silicone oils, more preferably one or more silicone oils selected from the group consisting of dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysiloxane-11, phenyl trimethicone, and amino terminal dimethicone, especially dimethicone;
(d) From about 0.1 to about 10 weight percent, preferably from about 0.5 to about 5 weight percent, more preferably from about 1 to about 4 weight percent, of one or more crosslinked emulsified silicone elastomers, preferably one or more polyoxyalkylenated emulsified silicone elastomers, more preferably selected from the group consisting of dimethicone/PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer, PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone PPG-20 cross-linked polymer, PEG-10 lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-12 dimethicone cross-linked polymer, dimethicone/PEG/PPG 15 cross-linked polymer, dimethicone PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer, dimethicone PEG-15 cross-linked polymer, dimethicone polyglycerin-3 cross-linked polymer, dimethicone PPG-20 cross-linked polymer, lauryl dimethicone PEG-15 cross-linked polymer, lauryl dimethicone polyglycerin-3 cross-linked polymer, PEG-8 dimethicone polysorbate-20 cross-linked polymer, PEG-10 dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone cross-10 PEG-10 vinyl dimethicone cross-15 cross-linked polymer, PEG-15 cross-linked polymer, even more preferred are polydimethylsiloxane/PEG-10/15 crosslinked polymers;
(e) About 0.01 to about 5 wt%, preferably about 0.01 to about 3 wt%, more preferably about 0.1 to about 2 wt%, of one or more co-emulsifying silicones selected from the group consisting of: a dimethicone copolyol, for example a dimethicone copolyol selected from the group consisting of: polydimethylsiloxane PEG-8 benzoate, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-7 phosphate, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-8 phosphate, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10 phosphate, PEG-7 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-8 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-12 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-14 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-17 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-3/10 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-4/12 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-17/18 polydimethylsiloxane, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane and mixtures thereof, in particular PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane;
(f) About 5 to about 45 weight percent, preferably about 10 to about 40 weight percent, more preferably about 15 to about 35 weight percent of one or more water-soluble solvents such as glycerin, C 2-C6 monohydric alcohols, polyhydric alcohols (polyhydroxy alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof;
(g) About 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, preferably about 0.1 to about 4 weight percent, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3 weight percent of one or more silicone powders, for example, (polydimethylsiloxane/vinylpolydimethylsiloxane) cross-linked polymer, (polydimethylsiloxane/phenylvinylpolydimethylsiloxane) cross-linked polymer, (vinylpolydimethylsiloxane/lauryl polydimethylsiloxane) cross-linked polymer, (vinylpolydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsilsesquioxane) cross-linked polymer, (diphenylpolydimethylsiloxane/vinyldiphenylpolydimethylsiloxane/silsesquioxane) cross-linked polymer, polysiloxane-1 cross-linked polymer, polysiloxane-22, polyalkylsilsesquioxanes (e.g., polymethylsilsesquioxanes), polysiloxane-11, and mixtures thereof, preferably polyalkylsilsesquioxanes (e.g., polymethylsilsesquioxanes), vinylpolydimethylsiloxanes/polymethylsilsesquioxanes, polysiloxane-11, and mixtures thereof, more preferably polymethylsilsesquioxanes;
(h) About 0.01 to about 10 wt%, preferably about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, more preferably about 1 to about 6 wt%, of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, for example, miscellaneous ingredients selected from the group consisting of: miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants other than the crosslinked emulsified silicone elastomer of (d), preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, plant extracts, UV filters, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescers, fillers, colorants, matting agents, other skin-active agents, buffers and mixtures thereof;
wherein the composition is preferably a water-in-silicone emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic composition is stable. For example, in one embodiment, the cosmetic composition does not visually phase separate or form visually observable particles after storage at 4 ℃,25 ℃, 37 ℃ and/or 45 ℃ for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks.
In another embodiment, the cosmetic composition does not undergo visual phase separation or form visually observable particles in a freeze-thaw test of at least 10 cycles, wherein the freeze-thaw test comprises placing the cosmetic composition in a stabilization chamber and subjecting it to temperature fluctuations at 12 hour intervals, a first interval of 12 hours at-20 ℃, followed by a second interval of 12 hours at 25 ℃.
In one embodiment, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition does not change by more than 20%, 15%, 10% or 5% after storage at 4 ℃, 25 ℃, 37 ℃ and/or 45 ℃ for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks.
The cosmetic composition preferably has a viscosity of about 5,000 to about 200,000pa.s at 25 ℃ and a shear rate of about 1s -1 at 25 ℃, however, in further embodiments, the composition has a viscosity of about 10,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 120,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 100,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 80,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 120,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 100,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 80,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 20,000pa.s, about 180,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 35,000 to about 35,000 pa.s, about 35,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 35,000 to about 35,000 pa.s.
Example 13
(Water-in-Silicone emulsion with hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol)
* N-composition (C-1) phase separated in 2 hours
Example 14
(Stability test)
The composition of example 13 was subjected to stability studies and visually evaluated for phase separation and particle formation under a microscope. The composition was analyzed after initial preparation (T 0) of the composition. The composition was again analyzed after 10 days of freeze-thaw testing. For the freeze-thaw test, the composition was placed in a stabilization chamber and subjected to temperature fluctuations at 12 hour intervals. The composition was kept at-20℃for 12 hours. During the next 12 hours, the composition was maintained at 25 ℃. The cycle was repeated 10 times (10 days). Separately, after storage for 4 weeks (1 month) at 4 ℃,25 ℃, 37 ℃ and 45 ℃, further after storage for 8 weeks (2 months) at 4 ℃,25 ℃, 37 ℃ and 45 ℃, the composition of example 1 was evaluated, and phase separation was visually examined, and particle formation was evaluated under a microscope. Viscosity was also evaluated.
The compositions of the present invention are considered stable ("Y") (yes) because they are visually free of phase separation, do not form particles, and maintain viscosity within at least 10% (viscosity change not exceeding ±10%). Comparative composition C-1 was considered unstable ("N") (NO) because it phase separated within 2 hours after formation.
Anhydrous compositions
The anhydrous compositions of the present disclosure are substantially free of water, i.e., they contain less than 2% by weight water. However, in some cases, the anhydrous composition contains less than 1 wt% water, less than 0.5 wt% water, less than 0.1 wt% water, or less than 0.05 wt% water. The anhydrous compositions are also characterized as having at least 90% by weight of ingredients having a log P value of 2 or less, such as 1.5 or less, 1 or less, 0.75 or less, 0.5 or less, 0.25 or 0. The log P value of a compound is the logarithm (base 10) of the partition coefficient (P), defined as the ratio of the organic (oil) to aqueous phase concentration of the compound:
Partition coefficient (P) = [ organic ]/[ aqueous ], where [ ] is the concentration of the compound in the solvent phase log p=log10 (P)
The log P of a compound is constant for a given particular pair of aqueous and organic solvents, and its value can be determined empirically by one of several phase partitioning methods known in the art. However, the calculated log P values of compounds vs. simple organic compounds such as octanol or hexane in the aqueous phase may provide guidance for predicting their solubility characteristics in other aqueous and organic solvents. For example, a compound having a log P equal to 1 is measured to indicate a concentration of 10:1 in the organic phase and the aqueous phase. The compound is hydrophobic and needs to be dissolved in an organic solvent. In contrast, a compound with log P equal to-1 represents a concentration of 1:10 in the organic phase and the aqueous phase. The compound is hydrophilic and can be dissolved directly in an aqueous buffer. Finally, the compound with log P equal to 0 is partitioned in the organic phase and the aqueous phase in a ratio of 1:1; thus, the compounds may be soluble in both organic and aqueous solvents.
The anhydrous composition comprises one or more active agents, preferably one or more active agents that are soluble in the anhydrous composition. Non-limiting examples of useful active agents include ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, or mixtures thereof.
In one embodiment, the anhydrous composition comprises less than 2% by weight water, preferably less than 1% by weight water, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight water, and:
(a) One or more active agents, preferably one or more active agents that are soluble in the anhydrous composition;
(b) One or more water-soluble solvents;
(c) One or more thickening polymers; and
(D) Optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients.
The total amount of the one or more active agents in the anhydrous composition may vary, but is typically from about 1 to about 25 weight percent, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition. In various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more active agents in the anhydrous composition is from about 1 to about 20 wt%, from about 1 to about 18 wt%, from about 1 to about 15 wt%, from about 2 to about 20 wt%, from about 2 to about 18 wt%, from about 2 to about 15 wt%, from about 5 to about 20 wt%, from about 5 to about 18 wt%, or from about 5 to about 15 wt%, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the anhydrous composition comprises ascorbic acid. The total amount of ascorbic acid in the anhydrous composition may vary, but is typically from about 1 to about 20 weight percent, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition. In various embodiments, the total amount of ascorbic acid in the anhydrous composition is from about 1 to about 18 wt%, from about 1 to about 15 wt%, from about 2 to about 20 wt%, from about 2 to about 18 wt%, from about 2 to about 15 wt%, from about 5 to about 20 wt%, from about 5 to about 18 wt%, or from about 5 to about 15 wt%, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the anhydrous composition comprises ferulic acid. The total amount of ferulic acid in the anhydrous composition can vary, but is typically from about 0.1 to about 10 weight percent, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition. In various embodiments, the total amount of ferulic acid is about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, or about 1 to about 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include glycerin, monohydric alcohols, polyhydric alcohols (polyhydroxy alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the one or more water-soluble solvents may be selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, t-butanol, and mixtures thereof. A more detailed but non-limiting list of useful water-soluble solvents is provided under the heading "water-soluble solvents".
The total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents will vary, but in various embodiments is from about 50 to about 95 weight percent, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents is from about 60 to about 95 wt%, from about 70 to about 95 wt%, from about 75 to about 95 wt%, from about 60 to 90wt%, from about 70 to about 90wt%, from about 80 to about 90 wt%.
Useful thickening polymers include, inter alia, taurate copolymers and the like. Non-limiting examples include acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and mixtures thereof. A more thorough, but non-limiting list of useful thickening polymers is included under the heading "thickening polymers".
Generally, the amount of one or more thickening polymers will vary depending on the type of thickening polymer used; and on the desired viscosity of the cosmetic composition. Thus, in one embodiment, the total amount of one or more thickeners is sufficient to achieve the viscosity set forth throughout this disclosure. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more thickening polymers may be from about 0.01 to about 8 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the amount of the one or more thickening polymers may be from about 0.01 to about 6 wt%, from about 0.01 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.01 to about 3 wt%, from 0.1 to about 8 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, or from about 0.1 to about 2 wt%, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
In certain embodiments, the anhydrous composition comprises one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Non-limiting examples include preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusting agents, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, plant extracts, UV filters, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescers, fillers, colorants, matting agents, other skin-active agents, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkle agents, and the like. A more thorough, but non-limiting, list of miscellaneous ingredients that may be included in the anhydrous composition is provided under the heading "miscellaneous ingredients".
The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients, if present, will vary, but in certain embodiments is in an amount of from about 0.01 to about 10 weight percent, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition. The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients may be from about 0.01 to about 8 wt%, from about 0.01 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.01 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, from about 1 to about 10 wt%, from about 1 to about 8 wt%, from about 1 to about 5 wt%, or from about 1 to about 3 wt%, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
Example 15
(Anhydrous composition comprising ascorbic acid and ferulic acid)
Water-soluble solvent
The term "water-miscible solvent" is interchangeable with the term "water-miscible solvent" and refers to a compound that is liquid at 25 ℃ and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and that has a solubility in water of at least 50% under these conditions. In one embodiment, the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90%. Non-limiting examples of the one or more water-soluble solvents are selected from the group consisting of glycerin, monohydric alcohols, polyhydric alcohols (polyhydroxy alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof.
As non-limiting examples of organic solvents, mention may be made of monohydric and polyhydric alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, 4-tert-butylcyclohexyl alcohol and phenethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers, such as the monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, such as the monomethyl ethers of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and the alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, such as the monoethyl or monobutyl ethers of diethylene glycol. Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol and glycerol. The organic solvent may be a volatile or non-volatile compound.
Other non-limiting examples of the water-soluble solvent include alkanediols (polyhydric alcohols) such as glycerin, 1,2, 6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1, 4-diol, 2-ethyl-1, 3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol, (octanediol), 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1, 2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol, and isopropanol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, diethylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-1-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, and dipropylene glycol monoisopropyl ether; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1, 3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbitol, sorbitan, acetin, diacetin, triacetin, sulfolane, and mixtures thereof.
Polyols are also useful. Examples of polyols include glycerol, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1, 3-butanediol, 2, 3-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1, 3-butanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2, 4-butanetriol, 1,2, 6-hexanetriol, and mixtures thereof. Polyol compounds may also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol, 3-dimethyl-1, 2-butanediol, 2-diethyl-1, 3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1, 3-propanediol, 2, 4-dimethyl-2, 4-pentanediol, 2, 5-dimethyl-2, 5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1, 2-diol, and 2-ethyl-1, 3-hexanediol, and mixtures thereof.
In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure comprise one or more glycols and/or one or more alcohols, for example one or more water-soluble solvents selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, t-butanol, and mixtures thereof.
Fatty compounds
The term "fatty compound" is interchangeable with "fatty material". Fatty compounds are known to be water-insoluble (or only slightly water-soluble) compounds; they are hydrophilic and are usually dissolved in organic solvents. They include substances such as oils, fats, waxes, hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty esters, and the like. Silicones are not considered to be fatty compounds according to the present disclosure. Non-limiting examples of useful fatty compounds include oils, waxes, alkanes (paraffins), fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty esters, triglyceride compounds, lanolin, hydrocarbons, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof. International Federation Societies of Cosmetic Chemists describes fatty compounds, for example Cosmetic RAW MATERIAL ANALYSIS AND Quality, volume I: hydrocarbons, glycerides, waxes and Other Esters (Redwood Books, 1994), the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.
Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds include oils, mineral oils, alkanes (paraffins), fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, esters of fatty alcohols, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, waxes, triglyceride compounds, lanolin, and mixtures thereof.
Fatty alcohol derivatives
The fatty compound may comprise one or more fatty alcohol derivatives other than the fatty alcohol (component (d)). Fatty alcohol derivatives include fatty esters derived from one or more fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohol derivatives also include alkoxylated fatty alcohols, for example having from about 1 to about 100 moles of alkylene oxide per mole of alkoxylated fatty alcohol. For example, the alkoxylated fatty alcohol may be alkoxylated with from about 1 to about 80 moles, from about 2 to about 50 moles, from about 5 to about 45 moles, from about 10 to about 40 moles, or from 15 to about 35 moles of alkylene oxide per mole of alkoxylated fatty alcohol, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
As examples of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, mention may be made of steareths (e.g. steareth-2, steareth-20 and steareth-21), laureths (e.g. laureth-4 and laureth-12), cetyl polyethers (e.g. ceteth-10 and ceteth-20) and cetostearyl alcohol polyethers (e.g. cetostearyl alcohol polyether-2, cetostearyl alcohol polyether-10 and cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20). In at least one instance, the one or more alkoxylated fatty alcohols include stearyl alcohol polyether-20. In some cases, the one or more alkoxylated fatty alcohols may be only steareth-20.
Optionally suitable other fatty alcohol derivatives include methyl stearyl ether; 2-ethylhexyl dodecyl ether; stearyl acetate; cetyl propionate; cetyl polyethers series compounds, such as cetyl polyether-1 to cetyl polyether-45, which are glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, wherein the numerical designation indicates the number of glycol moieties present; stearyl alcohol polyether series compounds, such as stearyl alcohol polyethers-1 to 10, which are glycol ethers of stearyl alcohol (steareth alcohol), wherein the numerical designation indicates the number of glycol moieties present; cetostearyl ether-1 to cetostearyl ether-10, which are glycol ethers of cetostearyl alcohol (CETEARETH ALCOHOL), i.e. mixtures of fatty alcohols containing predominantly cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, wherein the numerical designation indicates the number of glycol moieties present; C1-C30 alkyl ethers of cetyl polyethers, stearyl polyethers and cetyl polyether compounds just described; polyoxyethylene ethers of branched alcohols such as octyldodecanol, dodecylpentadecanol, hexyldecanol, and isostearyl alcohol; polyoxyethylene ethers of behenyl alcohol; PPG ethers, such as PPG-9-stearyl polyoxyethylene ether-3, PPG-11 stearyl ether, PPG 8-cetyl polyether-1 and PPG-10 cetyl ether; and mixtures thereof.
Fatty acid
In some cases, the fatty compound may be selected from the group consisting of fatty acids, fatty acid derivatives, fatty acid esters, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, and alkoxylated fatty acids. The fatty acids may be linear or branched acids and/or may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include dibasic, tribasic and other polybasic acids and salts of these fatty acids. For example, the fatty acid may optionally include or be selected from lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arachidonic acid (ariichondonic acid), oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the fatty acid is selected from palmitic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.
Non-limiting examples of polyglycerol esters of fatty acids include those of the formula:
Wherein n has an average value of about 3 and R 1、R2 and R 3 each independently can be a fatty acid moiety or hydrogen, provided that at least one of R 1、R2 and R 3 is a fatty acid moiety. For example, R 1、R2 and R 3 may be saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched, and have a length of C 1-C40、C1-C30、C1-C25 or C 1-C20、C1-C16 or C 1-C10.
Fatty acid derivatives as defined herein include fatty acid esters of fatty alcohols as defined above, fatty acid esters of fatty alcohol derivatives as defined above when such fatty alcohol derivatives have an esterifiable hydroxyl group, fatty acid esters of alcohols other than the above fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol derivatives, hydroxyl substituted fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty acid derivatives include ricinoleic acid, glyceryl monostearate, 12-hydroxystearic acid, ethyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, polyglycerol stearate, dimethyl sebacate, PEG-15 cocoate, PPG-15 stearate, glycerol monostearate, glycerol distearate, glycerol tristearate, PEG-8 laurate, PPG-2 isostearate, PPG-9 laurate, and mixtures thereof. Preferred for use herein are glyceryl monostearate, 12-hydroxystearic acid and mixtures thereof.
Fatty alcohols
The term "fatty alcohol" refers to an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH) and comprising at least 8 carbon atoms and being neither oxyalkylated (in particular neither oxyethylenated nor oxypropylated) nor glycerylated. The fatty alcohol may be represented by the formula: R-OH, wherein R represents a linear or branched saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl) group comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
The one or more fatty alcohols may be liquid or solid. In some cases, it is preferred that the cosmetic composition comprises at least one solid fatty alcohol. Solid fatty alcohols that can be used include those that are solid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure (25 ℃,780 mmHg) and insoluble in water, that is, they have a water solubility of less than 1 wt%, preferably less than 0.5 wt%, at 25 ℃,1 atm.
The solid fatty alcohol may be represented by the formula: R-OH, wherein R represents a linear alkyl group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
Non-limiting examples of useful fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol or lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol); myristyl alcohol or myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecyl alcohol); cetyl alcohol (1-cetyl alcohol); stearyl alcohol (1-stearyl alcohol); arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (1-eicosdiol); tetracosanol (1-tetracosanol); hexacosanol (1-hexacosanol); octacosanol (1-octacosanol); triacontanol (1-triacontanol) and mixtures thereof.
In certain embodiments, one or more fatty alcohols have 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Specific non-limiting examples include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl or myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more solid fatty alcohols, for example selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, preferably cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetyl stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
Liquid fatty alcohols, in particular those containing C10-C34, preferably have branched carbon chains and/or have one or more, preferably 1-3 double bonds. They are preferably branched and/or unsaturated (c=c double bond) and contain 12 to 40 carbon atoms.
The liquid fatty alcohol may be represented by the formula: R-OH, wherein R represents a C12-C24 branched alkyl or alkenyl group (comprising at least one C12-C24 double bond c=c), R being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is a branched saturated alcohol. Preferably, R does not contain a hydroxyl group. These include oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-hexadecanol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is 2-octyl-1-dodecanol.
In some cases, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more fatty alcohols selected from the group consisting of decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, triacontanol, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the cosmetic composition preferably comprises cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and cetostearyl alcohol.
Wax
In some cases, the fatty compound may comprise or be selected from one or more waxes. Non-limiting examples of this class of waxes include, for example, synthetic waxes, ceresin, polyethylene waxes, mozzarella, beeswax, carnauba wax, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin derivatives, candelilla, cocoa butter, shellac wax, spermaceti, bran, decyl, sugarcane, montan, spermaceti, bayberry, vitex, plant waxes (e.g., sunflower seed (Helianthus annuus), carnauba, candelilla, ouricury or japan or cork fibers or sugarcane waxes) or mixtures thereof.
Oil (oil)
In some cases, the fatty compound may include or be selected from one or more oils. Suitable oils include, but are not limited to, natural oils, such as coconut oil; hydrocarbons, such as mineral oil and hydrogenated polyisobutene; fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol; esters, such as C 12-C15 alkyl benzoate; diesters, such as propylene glycol dicyclohexylate (propylene dipelarganate); and triesters such as glyceryl tricaprylate. Non-limiting examples of oils that may optionally be included in the cosmetic composition include isotridecyl isononanoate, PEG-4 diheptanoate, isostearyl pivalate, tridecyl pivalate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl ricinoleate, cetyl stearate, cetyl myristate, cocodioctanoate/decanoate, decyl isostearate, isodecyl oleate, isodecyl pivalate, isohexyl pivalate, octyl palmitate, dioctyl malate, tridecyl octanoate, myristyl myristate, stearyl alcohol, or octyldodecanol, acetylated lanolin alcohol, cetyl acetate, isododecanol, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, castor oil, lanolin and lanolin derivatives, triisohexadecyl citrate, sorbitan sesquioleate, C 10-C18 triglycerides, caprylic/capric/triglycerides, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, glyceryl triacetyl stearate, glyceryl triacetyl ricinoleate, glyceryl trioctanoate, hydrogenated castor oil, linseed oil, mink oil, olive oil, palm oil, grand Luo Shuzhi, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, tallow, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl trihydroxystearate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl trioleate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl tristearate, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, cholesterol, or a combination thereof.
In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may comprise one or more fatty compounds selected from fatty esters (e.g., isononyl isononanoate), polyolefins (e.g., petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, vegetable and/or plant oil, hydrocarbon-based oils (e.g., isohexadecane), or mixtures thereof.
Thickening polymers
Non-limiting examples of various types of thickening polymers include taurate copolymers, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polyethylacrylates, polyacrylamides, poly-C10-30 alkyl acrylates, acrylic acid/acrylonitrile copolymers, acrylic acid/steareth-20 itaconate copolymers, acrylic acid/cetyl polyether-20 itaconate copolymers, acrylic acid/amino acrylic acid ester/C10-30 alkyl PEG-20 itaconate copolymers, acrylic acid/amino acrylic acid ester copolymers, acrylic acid/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymers, acrylic acid/beheneth-25 methacrylate/HEMA crosslinked polymers, acrylic acid/vinyl neodecanoate crosslinked polymers, acrylic acid/vinyl isodecanoate crosslinked polymers, acrylic acid/palmitoleic acid copolymer, acrylic acid/acrylamide methylpropanesulfonic acid copolymers, and acrylic acid/C10-C30 alkyl acrylic acid ester crosslinked polymers, carbomers, hydrophobically modified polyacrylates; hydrophobically modified polyacrylic acid, hydrophobically modified polyacrylamide; hydrophobically modified polyethers, wherein these materials may have hydrophobes which may be selected from cetyl, stearyl, oleyl and combinations thereof, acrylamide/ammonium acrylate copolymers, acrylate cross-linked polymer-4, acrylate cross-linked polymer-3, acrylate/behenyl alcohol polyether-25 methacrylate copolymers, acrylate/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymers, acrylate/stearyl alcohol polyether-20 itaconate copolymers, ammonium polyacrylate/isohexadecane/PEG-40 castor oil; carbomer sodium, crosslinked polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth-7, polyacrylate 13/polyisobutylene/polysorbate 20, polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6, polyamide-3, polyquaternium-37, sodium polyacrylate, and mixtures thereof.
Among nonionic thickening polymers, examples include:
(1) Cellulose modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain; examples that may be mentioned include: hydroxyethyl cellulose modified with groups containing at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, aralkyl or alkaryl groups or mixtures thereof, wherein alkyl is preferably C8-C22, such as product NATROSOL PLUS GRADE sold by Aqualon corporation CS (C 16. RTM.) or product BERMOCOLL EHM sold by Berol Nobel corporation; and alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether group modified hydroxyethylcellulose, such as product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenyl ether) sold by Amerchol company,
(2) Hydroxypropyl guar modified with a group comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the product ESAFLOR HM sold by the company Lamberti (C 22 alkyl chain), and the products RE210-18 (C 14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C 20 alkyl chain) sold by the company Rhone-Poulenc,
(3) Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and fatty chain hydrophobic monomers; examples that may be mentioned include: product ANTARON V sold by the company I.S. P. or GANEX V216 (vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer), product ANTARON V sold by the company I.S. P. or GANEX V220 (vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer),
(4) Copolymers of C 1-C6 -alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate/stearyl acrylate copolymer sold under the name ANTIL by Goldschmidt company,
(5) Copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hydrophobic monomers containing at least one fatty chain, for example polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymers,
(6) Polyurethane polyethers comprising hydrophilic blocks of polyoxyethylated nature and hydrophobic blocks in their chain, which may be separate aliphatic sequences and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences.
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more taurate copolymers. These copolymers can act as gelling agents, thickeners, and provide emulsifying properties. In particular, the inventors have found that taurine salt copolymers are particularly effective in stabilizing the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure.
Non-limiting examples of taurine salt copolymers include acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and mixtures thereof
The taurine salt copolymer may be hydrophilic and may contain an acrylate component. The at least one taurate copolymer may include, for example, an acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and/or a sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer. In some cases, the at least one taurate copolymer may be obtained from ethylenically unsaturated sulfo-functional monomers and ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers, for example from crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide or methacrylamide and 2-acrylamido-2-methyl-propanesulfonic acid.
In some cases, the one or more taurate copolymers may be selected from the group consisting of acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, and mixtures thereof. Furthermore, in some cases, the cosmetic composition may include hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, and optionally also include a poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate.
Nonionic emulsifiers
Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers include ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters (e.g., polysorbate 80), polyol esters, glycerides, alkyl polyglucosides (e.g., cetostearyl glucoside), glycerol ethers, oxyethylenated ethers, oxypropylenated ethers, and ethylene glycol polymers. Furthermore, the nonionic emulsifier may be selected from alkyl polyglucosides; alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acid esters, which are ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerinated (polyglycerol-2 isostearate); ethoxylated fatty acid esters; glycerides of fatty acids; fatty alcohol ethoxylates; alkylphenol ethoxylates; fatty acid alkoxylates; and mixtures thereof.
The nonionic emulsifier can be selected from alcohols and alpha-diols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups can be from 2 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups can be from 2 to 30; these compounds contain at least one fatty chain containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.
Mention is also made of polyethoxylated fatty amides which preferably have from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides which comprise on average from 1 to 5, in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; polyoxyethylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan having preferably from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyalkylenated and preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150mol of ethylene oxide, for example oxyethylenated vegetable oils.
Useful nonionic surfactants include those of the alkyl (poly) glycoside type, particularly represented by the general formula: r 1O-(R2O)t-(G)v wherein: r 1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl substituent containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and especially from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl substituent whose linear or branched alkyl substituent contains from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and especially from 8 to 18 carbon atoms; r 2 represents an alkylene substituent containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms; g represents a sugar unit containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms; t represents a value of 0 to 10, and preferably 0 to 4; and v represents a value of 1 to 15, and preferably 1 to 4. Preferred alkyl (poly) glycoside surfactants are compounds of the above formula wherein: r 1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl substituent containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms; r 2 represents an alkylene substituent containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms; t represents a value from 0 to 3 and is preferably equal to 0; and G represents glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, may be in the range of 1 to 15, and preferably 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization is more particularly 1 to 2. The glycosidic bond between saccharide units is generally of type 1-6 or 1-4, and preferably of type 1-4. In particular, the alkyl (poly) glucoside surfactant may be the alkyl (poly) glucoside surfactant C 8/C16 alkyl (poly) glucoside 1,4, and in particular decyl glucoside and octyl/decyl glucoside.
Useful nonionic surfactants may be selected from polyoxyethylated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan (preferably C12-C18), polyethoxylated C8-C30 (preferably C12-18) fatty alcohols, polyglycerolated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylated compounds preferably having 2-30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated compounds preferably having 2-16 moles of glycerol; and mixtures thereof.
The polyoxyethylated C8-C30 fatty alcohols may be selected from the group consisting of C12-C18 fatty alcohols, in particular polyoxyethylated lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, for example: cetyl alcohol (cetyl polyether-6) (HLB 11.1) polyoxyethylenated with 6 EO, cetyl alcohol (cetyl polyether-10) (HLB 12.9) polyoxyethylenated with 10 EO, cetyl alcohol (cetyl polyether-20) (HLB 15.7) polyoxyethylenated with 20 EO, cetyl alcohol (cetyl polyether-24) (HLB 16.3), lauryl alcohol (lauryl polyether-4) polyoxyethylenated with 4 EO, lauryl alcohol (lauryl polyether-7) polyoxyethylenated with 7 EO (lauryl polyether-9) (HLB 12.3), lauryl alcohol (lauryl polyether-10) polyoxyethylenated with 9 EO (HLB 13.9), lauryl alcohol (lauryl polyether-12) polyoxyethylenated with 12 EO (lauryl polyether-14.6) having 12 EO, lauryl alcohol (lauryl polyether-21) (HLB 21) having 21 EO, stearyl polyether (HLB 5.3) having 2), stearyl polyether (HLB 2.3) having 9 EO, stearyl polyether (HLB 2.2) having 2.3) and stearyl polyether (HLB 2.2), polyoxyethylated stearyl alcohol (stearyl polyether-21) (HLB 15.5) was used with 21 EO.
Polyoxyethylated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, preferably C12-C18, can be selected from polyoxyethylated esters of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, palmitic or stearic acid of sorbitan, in particular containing 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, for example: polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (polysorbate-21) (HLB 13.3) polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (polysorbate-20) (HLB 16.7) polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (polysorbate-40) (HLB 15.6) polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 EO) (polysorbate-60) (HLB 14.9) polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 EO) (polysorbate-61) (HLB 9.6) polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 EO) (polysorbate-80) (HLB 15).
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more nonionic surfactants selected from polyoxyethylated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan (preferably C12-C18), preferably polyoxyethylated esters of C12-C18 fatty acids.
Particularly preferred polyglycerolated C8-C30 fatty acid esters may be selected from polyglycerol esters of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic or isostearic acid, having from 2 to 16 moles of glycerol, for example: polyglycerol-2 laurate, polyglycerol-3 laurate, polyglycerol-4 laurate, polyglycerol-5 laurate, polyglycerol-6 laurate, and polyglycerol-10 laurate; polyglycerol-2 myristate, polyglycerol-3 myristate, polyglycerol-4 myristate, polyglycerol-5 myristate, polyglycerol-6 myristate, polyglycerol-10 myristate; polyglycerol-2 palmitate, polyglycerol-3 palmitate, polyglycerol-6 palmitate, and polyglycerol-10 palmitate; polyglycerol-2 isostearate, polyglycerol-3 isostearate, polyglycerol-4 isostearate, polyglycerol-5 isostearate, polyglycerol-6 isostearate, polyglycerol-10 isostearate; polyglycerol-2 stearate, polyglycerol-3 stearate, polyglycerol-4 stearate, polyglycerol-5 stearate, polyglycerol-6 stearate, polyglycerol-8 stearate, polyglycerol-10 stearate, and mixtures thereof.
In some embodiments, the nonionic surfactant may be selected from esters of polyols with fatty acids having saturated or unsaturated chains containing, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably having a number of alkylene oxides of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100, such as glycerides of one or more fatty acids of C 8-C24, preferably C 12-C22, and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably having a number of alkylene oxides of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; polyethylene glycol esters of one or more fatty acids of C 8-C24, preferably C 12-C22, and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably having an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; sorbitol esters of one or more fatty acids of C 8-C24, preferably C 12-C22, and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably having an alkylene oxide number of 10-200, and more preferably 10-100; sugar (sucrose, glucose, alkyl glucose) esters of one or more fatty acids of C 8-C24, preferably C 12-C22, and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably having an alkylene oxide number of 10-200, and more preferably 10-100; one or more ethers of fatty alcohols; ethers of a sugar and one or more fatty alcohols of C 8-C24, preferably C 12-C22; and mixtures thereof.
Examples of ethoxylated fatty acid esters that may be mentioned may include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing 9-100 ethylene oxide groups, for example PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (such as CTFA name: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (e.g., CTFA name: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearates (e.g., CTFA name: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (e.g., CTFA name: PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate 1; and mixtures thereof.
As glycerides of fatty acids, mention may be made of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di-and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof.
As glycerides of C 8-C24 alkoxylated fatty acids there may be mentioned polyethoxylated glyceryl stearates (glyceryl mono-, di-and/or tristearate), for example PEG-20 glyceryl stearate.
Mixtures of these surfactants can also be used, for example the products sold by Uniqema under the name ARLACEL 165 containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, and the products sold by Goldschmidt under the name TEG1N containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate and glyceryl distearate) and potassium stearate (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).
Alkyl polyglucosides are a useful class of nonionic surfactants. Non-limiting examples of alkyl polyglucosides include alkyl polyglucosides having the formula:
R1-O-(R2O)n-Z(x)
Wherein R 1 is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
r 2 is ethylene or propylene;
Z is a glycosyl group having 5 to 6 carbon atoms;
n is an integer from 0 to 10; and
X is an integer from 1 to 5.
Useful alkyl polyglucosides include lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, sucrose laurate, octyl/decyl glucoside, and sodium lauryl gluconate, and mixtures thereof. Typically, the at least one alkyl polyglucoside compound is selected from the group consisting of lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, and coco glucoside, and more typically is lauryl glucoside. In some cases decyl glucoside is particularly preferred.
Polyglycerol-based emulsifiers
Polyglycerol-based emulsifiers are a useful class of nonionic emulsifiers. Non-limiting examples include polyglycerol 10-stearate, polyglycerol 3-decanoate, polyglycerol 3-diisostearate, polyglycerol 3-methyl glucose distearate or mixtures thereof. More generally, the polyglycerol-based emulsifier may be a polyglycerol ester of a fatty acid having a structure according to the formula:
Wherein n is 2 to 20 or 2 to 10 or 2 to 5, or 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, and R 1、R2 and R 3 are each independently a fatty acid moiety or hydrogen, provided that at least one of R 1、R2 and R 3 is a fatty acid moiety. For example, R 1、R2 and R 3 may be saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched, and have a length of C 1-C40、C1-C30、C1-C25 or C 1-C20、C1-C16 or C 1-C10. In addition, non-limiting examples of nonionic polyglycerol esters of fatty acids include polyglycerol-4 caprylate/caprate, polyglycerol-10 caprylate/caprate, polyglycerol-4 caprate, polyglycerol-10 caprate, polyglycerol-4 laurate, polyglycerol-5 laurate, polyglycerol-6 laurate, polyglycerol-10 cocoate, polyglycerol-10 myristate, polyglycerol-10 oleate, polyglycerol-10 stearate, and mixtures thereof.
In certain embodiments, the polyglycerol-based emulsifier may be selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol esters of C12-22 saturated, unsaturated and branched fatty acids, such as polyglycerol-4 isostearate, polyglycerol-3 oleate, polyglycerol-2-sesquioleate, triisoglyceryl stearate, diglycerol monooleate, tetraglycerol monooleate and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of glycerides may include caprylic acid glycerides, capric acid glycerides, coco acid glycerides, lauric acid glycerides, and combinations thereof.
Non-limiting examples of polyglycerolated fatty acid esters include polyglycerol-10 laurate; polyglycerol-10 myristate; polyglycerol-2 palmitate, polyglycerol-3 palmitate, polyglycerol-6 palmitate, polyglycerol-10 palmitate, polyglycerol-2 isostearate, polyglycerol-3 isostearate, polyglycerol-4 isostearate, polyglycerol-5 isostearate, polyglycerol-6 isostearate, polyglycerol-10 isostearate; polyglycerol-2 stearate, polyglycerol-3 stearate, polyglycerol-4 stearate, polyglycerol-5 stearate, polyglycerol-6 stearate, polyglycerol-8 stearate, polyglycerol-10 stearate, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, polyglycerol-2 isostearate is particularly useful.
In a preferred embodiment, the one or more nonionic emulsifiers are selected from the group consisting of sorbitan fatty acid esters (e.g., sorbitan isostearate and sorbitan oleate), ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters (e.g., polysorbate-80), polyol esters, glycerol esters, polyglucosides (e.g., cetostearyl glucoside), and mixtures thereof
Ethoxylated fatty acids
"Ethoxylated fatty acids" are also referred to as "ethoxylated fatty acid esters" and "polyethoxylated fatty acids". They are formed when fatty acids are reacted with alkylene oxides. The resulting product may be a monoester, a diester or a mixture thereof.
The ethoxylated fatty acids may be represented by the formula R-C (O) O (CH 2CH2O)n -H, wherein R represents an aliphatic residue of a fatty acid, n represents the molecular number of ethylene oxide, n on the other hand is an integer in the range of 2 to 200, 2 to 150,2 to 100,2 to 50,3 to 200,3 to 150,3 to 100,3 to 50, or 3 to 25, and on the other hand is an integer in the range of 3 to 10. And polyethylene glycol 400 propoxylated monolaurate, wherein in one aspect the number of ethylene oxide units in each of the foregoing ethoxylates may be 2 and above, and in another aspect 2 to about 200, is 2 to 150,2 to 100,2 to 50,3 to 200,3 to 150,3 to 100,3 to 50, or 3-25. More specific examples of ethoxylated fatty acids are PEG-8 distearate (8 denotes the number of repeating ethylene oxide units), PEG-8 behenate, PEG-8 caprate, PEG-8 caprylate/caprate, PEG cocoate (no numerical designation of PEG means the number of ethylene oxide units is 2-50), PEG-15 dioctanoate, PEG-2 diisopelargonate, PEG-8 diisostearate, PEG-dilaurate, PEG-dioleate, PEG-distearate, PEG-ditalinoate, PEG-isostearate, PEG-jojoba acid, PEG-laurate, PEG-linolenate, PEG-myristate, PEG-oleate, PEG-palmitate, PEG-ricinoleate, PEG-stearate, PEG-tall oil acid ester, and the like.
Examples of ethoxylated fatty acids that may be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing 9-100 ethylene oxide groups, for example PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (such as CTFA name: PEG-9 laurate-PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (e.g., CTFA name: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearates (e.g., CTFA name: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (e.g., CTFA name: PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.
In some cases, the one or more ethoxylated fatty acids are selected from the group consisting of polyethoxylated stearates, such as PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate, and combinations thereof.
Nonionic emulsifier with HLB of 9-12
Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15 include alkyl polyglucosides (cetostearyl glucoside), polyglycerin based emulsifiers (polyglycerin-3 methyl glucoside distearate), sorbitan fatty acid esters (polysorbate 60), sugar esters or ethers, sugar-based esters or ethers, polyol fatty acid esters or ethers, glyceryl fatty acid esters or ethers, ethoxylates thereof, or mixtures thereof
In a preferred embodiment, the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of from about 9 to about 15 are sugar esters or ethers or sugar-based esters and ethers. As used herein, "sugar ester" refers to "sugar alcohol fatty acid ester" or "sugar acid fatty alcohol ester" and "sugar ether" refers to "sugar alcohol fatty alcohol ether". The sugar-based esters and ethers may be esters or ethers of (a) sugars, sugar alcohols or sugar derivatives with (b) fatty acids or fatty alcohols. In some embodiments, esters may be preferred over ethers, and vice versa. Esters and ethers may be formed by the combination of sugar, sugar alcohol or sugar derivative with fatty acid, or by the combination of sugar, sugar alcohol or sugar derivative with fatty alcohol. For example, sucrose laurate can be formed by a combination of: sucrose with lauric acid or a moon Gui Jizhe sugar acid ester, and unless otherwise indicated herein, this embodiment is not necessary: the particular ester (or ether) is the result of esterification (or etherification) of the fatty acid as opposed to the fatty alcohol, or vice versa.
Preferred sugars for esters and ethers include monosaccharides, disaccharides and oligosaccharides, and in preferred embodiments, the sugar is a monosaccharide, disaccharide or trisaccharide, or mixtures thereof. Exemplary sugars include allose, altrose, arabinose, cellobiose, erythrose, erythrulose, fructose, fucose, galactose, gentiobiose, glucose, gulose, idose, isomaltose, lactose, lactulose, lyxose, maltose, maltotriose, mannobiose, mannose, melezitose, raffinose, rhamnose, ribose, ribulose, sorbose, sucrose, talose, threose, trehalose, xylobiose, xylose, and xylulose. In a preferred embodiment, the sugar is glucose or sucrose. Exemplary sugar alcohols include allitol, arabitol, duckweed alcohol, erythritol, galactitol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, iditol, inositol, isomalt, lactitol, maltitol, mannitol, sorbitol, and xylitol. Exemplary sugar derivatives such as sulfonated sugars and sugar amines may also be used in embodiments of the invention. These examples are non-limiting examples, and it should be understood that any sugar, sugar alcohol or other sugar derivative that will provide a hydrophilic head group to an ester or ether and that is otherwise pharmaceutically acceptable is suitable for use in embodiments of the present invention.
The fatty acids and fatty alcohols used in the esters and ethers may be any fatty acid or fatty acid alcohol capable of providing a hydrophobic tail group so that the esters or ethers may exert surface active properties. Fatty acids and fatty alcohols may be short chain (i.e., less than 8 carbons in length), medium chain (i.e., 8 to 14 carbons in length), or long chain (i.e., greater than 14 carbons in length). Branched or unbranched fatty acids and fatty alcohols can be used. Non-limiting examples of suitable saturated fatty acids include butyric, caproic, caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, arachidic and behenic acid, and non-limiting examples of suitable unsaturated fatty acids include myristoleic, palmitoleic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, arachidonic, eicosapentaenoic, erucic and docosahexaenoic acids. Non-limiting examples of suitable linear fatty alcohols include hexyl alcohol (hexyl alcohol), octyl alcohol, decyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol (cetyl), palmityl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and ditetradecyl alcohol, and non-limiting examples of suitable branched fatty alcohols include isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and isobehenyl alcohol.
In a preferred embodiment, the sugar-based ester or ether fat component is a C 12 fat component (e.g., stearic acid, stearyl alcohol, lauric acid, lauryl alcohol, etc.) or a C 8-C18 fat component. In another embodiment, mixtures of medium and long chain fatty components are preferred, particularly mixtures of saturated and unsaturated C 8-C18 fatty components. In yet another embodiment, mixtures of saturated and unsaturated C 8-C18 fatty acids are preferred. In various embodiments, the sugar-based ester or ether is a di-or tri-ester of a fatty acid or alcohol, or a di-or tri-ether of a fatty alcohol.
The sugar-based esters and ethers may be mono-or monoethers, or may be di-, tri-or polyesters and ethers, depending on the sugar or sugar alcohol selected for use. In one embodiment, monoesters and diesters, or monoethers and diethers, are preferred. Esterification and etherification may occur at any free hydroxyl groups in the sugar or sugar alcohol.
Mixtures of esters or ethers are also contemplated. The mixture may be varied in a number of ways. For example, a particular ester used in the formulation, such as a sugar monostearate, may comprise various sugar monostearate each esterified on different hydroxyl groups. Or, for example, the sugar stearate may include various esters having different degrees of esterification, such as mono-stearate, di-stearate, tri-stearate, and the like. Or in yet another example, the sugar mono-or di-acids may include mono-or di-esterification with a stearyl alcohol fat component. In another example, a mixture containing a particular ester, such as a sugar stearate, may contain primarily an ester of stearic acid (or stearyl alcohol), but also an ester of other fatty components, such as an ester of myristic acid (or myristyl alcohol), and the like. In yet another example, an "ester" may be a mixture of already fatty acids to form an ester, e.g., an "ester" sucrose cocoate is actually a mixture of esters comprising: laurates, palmitates, myristates, stearates and caproate esters of sucrose with minor amounts of other short and long chain fatty acids and mixed di-and triesters. Non-limiting examples of these mixtures are equally applicable to sugar-based ethers and esters.
The sugar-based esters and ethers may be prepared by any suitable method known in the art, for example by incubating an aqueous mixture of sugar or sugar alcohol, fatty acid and catalytically active amount of lipolytic enzyme, and recovering the resulting esters from the mixture. Other methods include mixing the sugar with fatty acid chloride at about 80 ℃, wherein the hydrogen chloride formed is simply removed and the sugar fatty acid ester recovered. Similarly, the mixture of methyl fatty acid ester and sugar may be heated at a temperature of about 90 ℃ in the presence of a base catalyst, the methanol formed distilled and the sugar fatty acid ester recovered. Many suitable esters and ethers are also commercially available.
The fatty acid esters of sugars may be chosen in particular from esters or mixtures of esters of C 8-C22 fatty acids and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, and esters or mixtures of esters of C 14-C22 fatty acids and methyl glucose.
The C 8-C22 or C 14-C22 fatty acids forming the fatty units of the esters which can be used comprise saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl or alkenyl chains containing 8 to 22 or 14 to 22 carbon atoms, respectively. The fatty units of the esters may be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates and caprates, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, stearates are used.
As examples of esters or ester mixtures of fatty acids and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, mention may be made of sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate and sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof; and examples of fatty acid esters and methyl glucose esters or mixtures thereof which may be mentioned are polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate. Mention may also be made of glucose or maltose monoesters, such as methyl o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-glucoside and o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-maltoside.
In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition preferably comprises at least one ester of a C 14-C22 fatty acid and methyl glucose, such as polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate.
The fatty alcohol ethers of sugars that can be used can be solids at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ℃. And may be chosen in particular from the following ethers or mixtures of ethers: c 8-C22 fatty alcohols and glucose, maltose, sucrose or fructose, and the following ethers or mixtures of ethers: c 14-C22 fatty alcohols and methyl glucose. These are in particular alkyl polyglucosides, with alkyl polyglucosides being preferred in various embodiments. A particularly preferred example is C12-20 alkyl glucoside. Thus, in one embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one alkyl polyglucoside, such as a C12-20 alkyl glucoside.
The C 8-C22 or C 14-C22 fatty alcohols forming the fatty units of the ethers which can be used include saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain alkyl or alkenyl chains containing 8 to 22 or 14 to 22 carbon atoms, respectively. The fatty units of the ether may be chosen in particular from decyl, cetyl, behenyl, eicosyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, octyl and cetyl units, and mixtures thereof, for example cetylstearyl.
As examples of fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, mention may be made of alkyl polyglucosides, such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, cetostearyl glucoside, eicosyl glucoside and mixtures thereof. Further mentioned are sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate or sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof, polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate and alkyl polyglucosides.
In certain embodiments, the nonionic emulsifier having an HLB of from about 9 to about 15 may be selected from: at least one polyglycerin fatty acid ester of a fatty acid comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain C 8-C22 hydrocarbon group, such as C 8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl, preferably C 8-C18 alkyl or alkenyl, and more preferably C 8-C12 alkyl or alkenyl, and 2-12 glycerols, preferably 2-10 glycerols, and more preferably 2-8 glycerols; polyethylene glycol derivatives of polyoxyethylated alkyl glycerides, such as mixtures of mono-, di-and triglycerides of caprylic and capric acid (preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, more preferably 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and even more preferably 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units); at least one, preferably a polyoxyethylated fatty ether of a fatty alcohol comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain C 8-C22 hydrocarbon group, such as C 8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl, preferably C 8-C18 alkyl or alkenyl, and more preferably C 8-C12 alkyl or alkenyl, and 2 to 60 ethylene oxides, preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxides, and more preferably 2 to 10 ethylene oxides; and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the polyglycerin fatty acid ester has a polyglycerin moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerins, more preferably 2 to 8 glycerins, and further preferably 4 to 6 glycerins. The polyglycerin fatty acid ester may be selected from monoesters, diesters and triesters of saturated or unsaturated acids, preferably saturated acids, including 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and myristic acid.
The polyglycerin fatty acid ester may be selected from: PG2 caprate, PG2 dicaprate, PG2 tricaprate, PG2 caprylate, PG2 dicaprate, PG2 tricaprylate, PG2 laurate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 trilaurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 trimyristate, PG2 stearate, PG2 distearate, PG2 tristearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 triisostearate, PG2 oleate, PG2 dioleate, PG2 trioleate, PG3 caprate, PG3 dicaprate, and, PG3 tricaprate, PG3 octanoate, PG3 dioctanoate, PG3 tricaprylate, PG3 laurate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 trilaurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 trimyristate, PG3 stearate, PG3 distearate, PG3 tristearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 diisostearate, PG3 triisostearate, PG3 oleate, PG3 dioleate, PG3 trioleate, PG4 decanoate, PG4 dicaprate, PG4 tricaprate, PG4 octanoate, PG4 dioctanoate, PG4 trioctoate, PG4 laurate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 trilaurate, PG4 myristate, PG4 dimyristate, PG4 trimyristate, PG4 stearate, PG4 distearate, PG4 tristearate, PG4 isostearate, PG4 diisostearate, PG4 triisostearate, PG4 oleate, PG4 dioleate, PG4 trioleate, PG5 caprate, PG5 dicaprate, PG5 tricaprate, PG5 caprylate, PG5 dioctanoate, PG5 trioctanoate, PG5 laurate, PG5 dilaurate, PG4 isostearate, PG4 dioleate, PG5 dioctanoate, PG5 laurate, PG5 dilaurate, PG5 dimyristate, and the like, PG5 trilaurate, PG5 myristate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 trimyristate, PG5 stearate, PG5 distearate, PG5 tristearate, PG5 isostearate, PG5 diisostearate, PG5 triisostearate, PG5 oleate, PG5 dioleate, PG5 trioleate, PG6 decanoate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 tricaprate, PG6 octanoate, PG6 dioctanoate, PG6 tricaprylate, PG6 laurate, PG6 dilaurate, PG6 trilaurate, PG6 myristate, PG6 dimyristate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 trimyristate, PG6 stearate, PG6 distearate, PG6 tristearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 diisostearate, PG6 triisostearate, PG6 oleate, PG6 dioleate, PG6 trioleate, PG10 decanoate, PG10 dicaprate, PG10 tricaprate, PG10 octanoate, PG10 dioctanoate, PG10 trioctanoate, PG10 laurate, PG10 dilaurate, PG10 trilaurate, PG10 myristate, PG10 dimyristate, PG10 trimyristate, PG10 stearate, PG10 distearate, PG10 tristearate, PG10 isostearate, PG10 diisostearate, PG10 triisostearate, PG10 oleate, PG10 dioleate, PG10 trioleate, and mixtures thereof.
The polyoxyalkylenated fatty ether, preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty ether, may comprise from 2 to 60 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, and more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. The fatty chain of the ether may be chosen in particular from lauryl, behenyl, eicosyl, stearyl and cetyl units, and mixtures thereof, for example cetylstearyl. Examples of ethoxylated fatty ethers which may be mentioned are laurel ethers comprising 2,3,4 and 5 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: laureth-2, laureth-3, laureth-4 and laureth-5).
The mixed esters of fatty acids or fatty alcohols, carboxylic acids and glycerol which can be used as the above-mentioned nonionic surfactant can be chosen in particular from fatty acids or fatty alcohols (which contain alkyl or alkenyl chains of 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms and more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms) and mixed esters of alpha-hydroxy acids and/or succinic acid and glycerol. The alpha-hydroxy acid may be, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, or malic acid, and mixtures thereof.
The alkyl chain of the fatty acid or alcohol from which the mixed esters may be derived may be linear or branched, as well as saturated or unsaturated. They may be, inter alia, stearates, isostearates, linoleates, oleates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates, caprates, isostearyl, stearyl, linoleyl, oleyl, behenyl, myristyl, lauryl or octyl chains, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of mixed esters include mixed esters of glycerol with mixtures of citric acid, lactic acid, linoleic acid and oleic acid (CTFA name: glycerol citrate/lactate/linoleate/oleate); mixed esters of succinic acid and isostearyl alcohol with glycerol (CTFA name: isostearyl diglycerol succinate); mixed esters of citric acid and stearic acid with glycerol (CTFA name: glycerol citric stearate); mixed esters of lactic acid and stearic acid with glycerol (CTFA name: glycerol stearate lactate) and mixtures thereof.
The sorbitan fatty acid ester and the oxyalkylenated sorbitan fatty acid ester may be selected from the group consisting of sorbitan C 16-C22 fatty acid ester and oxyethylated sorbitan C 16-C22 fatty acid ester. They may be formed from at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated straight alkyl chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms each and sorbitol or ethoxylated sorbitol. The oxyethylenated esters may generally comprise from 1 to 100 ethylene glycol units, and preferably from 2 to 40 Ethylene Oxide (EO) units. These esters may be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates and mixtures thereof. Preference is given to using stearates and palmitates. Non-limiting examples include sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), sorbitan tristearate 20EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65), and mixtures thereof.
The block copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B) which can be used are chosen in particular from the block copolymers of the formula
HO(C2H4O)x(C3H6O)y(C2H4O)zH
Wherein x, y and z are integers such that x+z is in the range of 2 to 100 and y is in the range of 14 to 60, and mixtures thereof.
Polyoxyethylated (1-40 EO) and polyoxyethylated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C 16-C30) ethers useful as the nonionic surfactants described above may be selected from PPG-6 decyl tetradecyl polyether-30; polyoxyethylene (30) polyoxypropylene (6) tetradecyl ether; PPG-6 decyl tetradecyl polyether-12; polyoxyethylene (12) polyoxypropylene (6) tetradecyl ether; PPG-13 decyl tetradecyl polyether-24; polyoxyethylene (24) polyoxypropylene (13) decyl tetradecyl ether, PPG-6 decyl tetradecyl polyether-20; polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (6) decyl tetradecyl ether, PPG-4 cetyl polyether-1; polyoxyethylene (1) polyoxypropylene (4) cetyl ether, PPG-8 cetyl polyether-1; polyoxyethylene (1) polyoxypropylene (8) cetyl ether, PPG-4 cetyl polyether-10; polyoxyethylene (10) polyoxypropylene (4) cetyl ether, PPG-4 cetyl polyether-20; polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (4) cetyl ether, PPG-5 cetyl polyether-20; polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (5) cetyl ether, PPG-8 cetyl polyether-20; polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (8) cetyl ether, and PPG-23 stearyl polyether-34; polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene stearyl ether (34 EO) (23 PO).
In various embodiments, polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxyacrylated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C 16-C30) ethers are more preferably (15-40 EO) and polyoxyacrylated (5-30 PO) alkyl (C 16-C24) ethers, which may be selected from PPG-6 decyl tetradecyl polyether-30, PPG-13 decyl tetradecyl polyether-24, PPG-6 decyl tetradecyl polyether-20, PPG-5 cetyl polyether-20, PPG-8 cetyl polyether-20, and PPG-23 stearyl polyether-34. Even more preferred polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxyacrylated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C 16-C30) ethers are (15-40 EO) and polyoxyacrylated (5-30 PO) alkyl (C 16-C24) ethers, which may be selected from PPG-6 decyl tetradecyl polyether-30, PPG-13 decyl tetradecyl polyether-24, PPG-5 cetyl polyether-20 and PPG-8 cetyl polyether-20.
In one embodiment, the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of 9 to 12 may be selected from the group consisting of alkyl polyglucosides (e.g., C12-20 alkyl glucosides), polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-2 dimerized hydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-2 polyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3 caprylate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucoside distearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, and mixtures thereof.
Glycerol fatty acid ester
Non-limiting examples of glycerol fatty acid esters (or simply glycerides) include glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl lanolinate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl palmitoleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl distearate, or mixtures thereof. Preferred glycerides include glyceryl stearate, glyceryl ricinoleate, or mixtures thereof.
In various embodiments, the one or more glycerides are selected from glycerides that are solid at a temperature below 30 ℃.
Suitable non-limiting examples of glycerides having an HLB of about 3to about 6 are selected from glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolinate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl distearate, or mixtures thereof. In at least one instance, the glycerol ester comprises glycerol stearate, glycerol ricinoleate, or a mixture thereof.
In some cases, the glycerol esters may be selected from the group consisting of oligoglycerol esters, arachidyl propionate, phytosterol esters, triglycerides of fatty acids and derivatives thereof, non-crosslinked polyesters obtained from polycondensation between linear or branched C4-C50 di-or polycarboxylic acids and C2-C50 diols or polyols, aliphatic esters of esters obtained from esterification of aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid esters with aliphatic carboxylic acids, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of glycerides include glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolinate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl citrate stearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or mixtures thereof. In at least one instance, the glyceride comprises glyceryl stearate, a di-diglyceride polyacyl adipate, or a mixture thereof. In at least one other instance, the glycerol ester comprises glycerol stearate.
Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of from about 16 to about 18
Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of from about 16 to about 18 include ethoxylated emulsifiers such as ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, it is preferred that the nonionic emulsifier having an HLB of from about 16 to about 18 include one or more ethoxylated fatty acids.
Non-limiting examples of ethoxylated fatty acids include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric, palmitic, stearic or behenic acid and mixtures thereof, especially those containing 9-100 ethylene oxide groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (e.g., INCI name: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (e.g., INCI name: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearates (e.g., INCI name: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (e.g., INCI name: PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100EO monostearate (INCI name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.
Non-limiting examples of ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters include polysorbate-20 (POE (20) sorbitan monolaurate), polysorbate-21 (POE (4) sorbitan monolaurate), polysorbate-40 (POE (20) sorbitan monopalmitate), polysorbate-60 (POE (20) sorbitan monostearate), polysorbate-61 (POE (4) sorbitan monostearate), polysorbate-65 (POE (20) sorbitan tristearate), polysorbate-80 (POE (20) sorbitan monooleate), polysorbate-81 (POE (4) sorbitan monooleate), polysorbate 85 (POE (20) sorbitan trioleate), sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan trioleate and sorbitan trioleate, and mixtures thereof.
Polyglycerol-based emulsifiers
Non-limiting examples include polyglycerol 10-stearate, polyglycerol 3-decanoate, polyglycerol 3-diisostearate, polyglycerol 3-methyl glucose distearate or mixtures thereof. In various embodiments, the polyglycerol-based emulsifier may be a polyglycerol ester of a fatty acid having a structure according to the formula:
Wherein n is 2 to 20 or 2 to 10 or 2 to 5, or 2, 3, 4, 5,6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, and R 1、R2 and R 3 each independently can be a fatty acid moiety or hydrogen, provided that at least one of R 1、R2 and R 3 is a fatty acid moiety. For example, R 1、R2 and R 3 may be saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched, and have a length of C 1-C40、C1-C30、C1-C25 or C 1-C20、C1-C16 or C 1-C10. In addition, non-limiting examples of nonionic polyglycerol esters of fatty acids include polyglycerol-4 caprylate/caprate, polyglycerol-10 caprylate/caprate, polyglycerol-4 caprate, polyglycerol-10 caprate, polyglycerol-4 laurate, polyglycerol-5 laurate, polyglycerol-6 laurate, polyglycerol-10 cocoate, polyglycerol-10 myristate, polyglycerol-10 oleate, polyglycerol-10 stearate, and mixtures thereof.
In certain embodiments, the polyglycerol-based emulsifier may be selected from polyglycerol esters of C 12-22 saturated, unsaturated and branched fatty acids, such as polyglycerol-4 isostearate, polyglycerol-3 oleate, polyglycerol-2-sesquioleate, triisoglyceryl stearate, diglycerol monooleate, tetraglycerol monooleate and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of glycerides may include caprylic acid glycerides, capric acid glycerides, coco acid glycerides, lauric acid glycerides, and combinations thereof.
In some embodiments, particularly useful polyglycerol-based emulsifiers include polyglycerol methyl glucose surfactants such as polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate, polyglycerol-6 methyl glucose distearate, polyglycerol-10 methyl glucose distearate, and mixtures thereof.
Crosslinked emulsified silicone elastomers
Various types of crosslinked silicone emulsion elastomers are known. They generally contain at least one hydrophilic moiety, such as a polyoxyalkylene group. Typically, these polyoxyalkylene silicone elastomers are crosslinked organopolysiloxanes which are obtainable by the crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxanes containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and polyalkylene oxides containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups. In at least one embodiment, the polyoxyalkylenated crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least two hydrogens each bonded to silicon and a polyoxyalkylene comprising at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, optionally in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
In various embodiments, useful cross-linked emulsified silicone elastomers include, inter alia, polyoxyalkylenated emulsified silicone elastomers (e.g., polydimethylsiloxane/PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer and PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane), polyglycerolated emulsified silicone elastomers, mixtures thereof, and the like
Non-limiting examples of polyglycerolated silicone elastomers include Shin-Etsu's KSG series, such as KSG-710, which is a polydimethylsiloxane/polyglycerol-3 cross-linked polymer dispersed in polydimethylsiloxane; or lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosslinked polymer dispersed in various solvents such as isododecane, dimethicone, tri (ethylhexanoate) ester sold under the trade names Shin-Etsu KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830 or KSG-840. Also suitable are silicones sold by Dow Corning under the trade names 9010 and DC 9011.
In one embodiment, a linear or branched type of crosslinked emulsifying silicone elastomer may be used. Exemplary, but non-limiting, crosslinked emulsified silicone elastomers include those having the following international cosmetic ingredient designation (INCI) designations: di-butyl polydimethylsiloxane polyglyceryl-3; bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 polydimethylsiloxane; bis-butylpolydimethylsiloxane polyglyceryl-3; bis-isobutyl PEG/PPG-10/7 polydimethylsiloxane copolymer; bis-PEG/PPG-18/6 polydimethylsiloxane; bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 polydimethylsiloxane; bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 polydimethylsiloxane; bis (PPG-7 undecene-21-dimethicone; cetyl dimethicone PEG-7 acetate; cetyl PEG-8 dimethicone; cetyl PEG/PPG-15/16 butyl ether dimethicone; cetyl PEG/PPG-15/15 butyl ether dimethicone; cetyl PEG/PPG-7/3 dimethicone; cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone; dimethicone PEG-15 acetate); Polydimethylsiloxane PEG-7 cocoate; polydimethylsiloxane PEG-7 phosphate; polydimethylsiloxane PEG-IO phosphate; polydimethyl siloxane PEG/PPG-7/4 phosphate; polydimethyl siloxane PEG/PPG-12/4 phosphate; polydimethylsiloxane PEG-7 undecylenate; lauryl polydimethylsiloxane PEG-IO phosphate; iso-polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxane; iso-polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxane; stearyl carboxydecyl PEG-8 polydimethylsiloxane; lauryl PEG-10 methyl ether polydimethylsiloxane; Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 polymethylsiloxane; PEG-6 methyl ether polydimethylsiloxane; PEG-7 methyl ether polydimethylsiloxane; PEG-9 methyl ether polydimethylsiloxane; PEG-10 methyl ether polydimethylsiloxane; PEG-11 methyl ether polydimethylsiloxane; PEG-11 methyl ether polydimethylsiloxane; PEG-32 methyl ether polydimethylsiloxane; PEG-PEG/PPG-28/21Acetate polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-22/22 butyl ether polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-23/23 butyl ether polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-24/18 butyl ether polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-3/10 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-4/12 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-6/11 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-8/14 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-12/16 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-12/18 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-14/4 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-15/5 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-15/15 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-16/2 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-16/8 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-17/18 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-18/12 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-19/19 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-20/6 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-20/15 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-20/20 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-20/29 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-22/23 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-22/24 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-25/25 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-27/27 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-30/10 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG/PPG-10/3 Oleyl Ether polydimethylsiloxane; PEG-8 trisiloxane; polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxane ethyl polydimethylsiloxane; PPG-12 butyl ether polydimethylsiloxane; silicone quaternary ammonium salt-17; TEA-polydimethylsiloxane PEG-7 phosphate; and mixtures thereof.
In one embodiment, non-limiting examples of crosslinked emulsified silicone elastomers that may be included in the cosmetic composition include polydimethylsiloxane/dimethicone PEG/PPG 15 crosslinked polymer; polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10 cross-linked polymer; polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer; polydimethylsiloxane PEG-15 cross-linked polymer; polydimethyl siloxane polyglycerin-3 crosslinked polymer; polydimethyl siloxane PPG-20 cross-linked polymer; lauryl dimethicone PEG-15 cross-linked polymer; lauryl dimethicone polyglycerin-3 crosslinked polymer; PEG-8 polydimethylsiloxane polysorbate-20 cross-linked polymer; PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer; PEG-10 lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer; PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer; PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone ethyl cross polymer; and mixtures thereof.
In one embodiment, mention may be made of dimethicone cross-linked polymer, cetylstearyl dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, dimethicone/polyethylene glycol (PEG) -10 cross-linked polymer, dimethicone/PEG-15 cross-linked polymer, dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 cross-linked polymer, dimethicone/silsesquioxane copolymer, dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, dimethicone/diisobutylpolypropylene glycol (PPG) -20 cross-linked polymer, PEG-12 dimethicone/PPG-20 cross-linked polymer, lauryl dimethicone PEG-15 cross-linked polymer, lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 cross-linked polymer, and mixtures thereof.
In preferred embodiments, the one or more crosslinked emulsifying silicone elastomers are selected from the group consisting of dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosslinked polymer, PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-10 lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-12 dimethicone crosslinked polymer, dimethicone/dimethicone PEG/PPG 15 crosslinked polymer, dimethicone PEG-10/15 crosslinked polymer, dimethicone PEG-15 crosslinked polymer, dimethicone polyglycerin-3 crosslinked polymer, dimethicone PEG-20 crosslinked polymer, lauryl dimethicone PEG-15 crosslinked polymer, lauryl dimethicone polyglycerin-3 crosslinked polymer, PEG-8 dimethicone PEG-20 crosslinked polymer, sorbitol ester, dimethicone PEG-10 crosslinked polymer, dimethicone vinyl silicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-15 crosslinked polymer, and PEG-15 crosslinked silicone PEG-10 crosslinked polymer.
Silicone oil
Non-limiting examples of silicones include polydimethylsiloxane, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysiloxane-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilyl amino dimethicone, and stearoxytrimethylsilane. In a preferred embodiment, the one or more silicone oils are nonvolatile silicone oils. Useful silicone oils include Polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendant and/or at the end of the siloxane chain, each of which contains 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenylsilicones, such as phenyl trimethicone, phenyl polydimethylsiloxane, phenyl (trimethylsiloxy) diphenylsiloxane, diphenylpolydimethylsiloxane, diphenyl (methyldiphenyl) trisiloxane or (2-phenylethyl) trimethylsiloxysilicate. Other examples of silicone oils that may be mentioned include volatile linear or cyclic silicones, such as those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8×106m 2/s) and/or comprising from 2 to 7 silicon atoms. These silicones optionally comprise alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyl octyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, and dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, or mixtures thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more silicone oils selected from the group consisting of dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysiloxane-11, phenyl trimethicone, and amino terminal dimethicone; and preferably comprises polydimethylsiloxane.
In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes one or more amino-functionalized silicones. Non-limiting examples include amino-terminated polydimethyl siloxane, bis-hydroxy/methoxy amino-terminated polydimethyl siloxane, bis-cetylstearyl amino-terminated polydimethyl siloxane, bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG amino-terminated polydimethyl siloxane, aminopropylphenyl polydimethylsiloxane, aminopropyl polydimethyl siloxane, bis-amino PEG/PPG-41/3 aminoethyl PG-propyl polydimethyl siloxane, octanoyl polydimethyl siloxane, and mixtures thereof. Amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxanes are particularly useful amino-functionalized silicones.
In preferred embodiments, the one or more silicone oils are selected from the group consisting of dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclomethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cycloheptyl silicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclotrisiloxane, octyldimethicone, octyltrimethicone, octyldimethicone, cetostearyl-dimethicone, cetyl-dimethicone, hexyl-dimethicone, lauryl-dimethicone, myristyl-dimethicone, phenyl-dimethicone, stearyl-dimethicone, behenyl-dimethicone, trifluoropropyl-dimethicone, cetyl-dimethicone, polyphenylmethicone, dimethicone, methylphenyl-polysiloxane, methyl-trimethicone, diphenyl-phenyl-trimethicone, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, one of the one or more silicone oils is polydimethylsiloxane and the cosmetic composition optionally comprises one or more additional silicone oils.
Miscellaneous ingredients
Miscellaneous ingredients are ingredients that are compatible with the cosmetic composition and do not destroy or substantially affect the basic and novel properties of the cosmetic composition. Miscellaneous ingredients commonly used in cosmetics are known in the art. Non-limiting examples include various emulsifiers/surfactants other than the crosslinked emulsified silicone elastomer of (d), preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, plant extracts, UV filters, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescers, fillers, colorants, matting agents, other skin-active agents, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkling agents, and the like. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure comprises one or more skin active agents, in particular madecassoside. Non-limiting examples of various miscellaneous ingredients that may optionally be included (or excluded) in the cosmetic compositions are provided below.
Miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants
Miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants may optionally be included in the cosmetic composition. Miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants are those other than the crosslinked emulsified silicone elastomers of (d). The miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants may be nonionic, anionic, cationic and/or amphoteric/zwitterionic.
Antioxidant agent
Examples of antioxidants include tocopherols (e.g., d-alpha-tocopherol, d-beta-tocopherol, d-gamma-tocopherol, d-delta-tocopherol), tocotrienols (e.g., d-alpha-tocotrienol, d-beta-tocotrienol, d-gamma-tocotrienol, d-delta-tocotrienol), and vitamin E (alpha-tocopheryl acetate). These compounds may be isolated from natural sources, prepared by synthetic means or mixed. Vitamin E preparations enriched in tocotrienols can be obtained by fractionating vitamin E preparations to remove a portion of the bio-phenol and recovering a higher concentrated tocotrienol preparation. Useful tocotrienols are natural products isolated from wheat germ oil, cereal or palm oil, for example using high performance liquid chromatography, or isolated from barley, wine lees or oats by alcohol extraction and/or molecular distillation. The term "tocotrienol" as used herein includes tocotrienol-rich fractions obtained from these natural products as well as pure compounds. The increased glutathione peroxidase activity protects the skin from oxidative damage.
Vitamin C and derivatives may be used including ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate, the fat-soluble esters tetrahexyldecanol ascorbate and ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl glucosamine, ascorbyl acetate, and the like. In addition, extracts from plants containing high amounts of vitamin C, such as carbomer (MYRCIARIA DUBIA), acerola, phyllanthus emblica, and bioflavonoids from rose hips and citrus fruits, including water-soluble bioflavonoids such as hesperidin methyl chalcone, may also be used. Sesame (Sesamum indicum) or sesame lignan may also be added. Sesame and lignans thereof (fibrous compounds associated with sesame) can be used as antioxidants. The sesame seed lignans significantly enhance vitamin E activity.
In addition, carotenoids, especially of the lutein type, are also useful antioxidants that can be used. Lutein-type carotenoids include molecules such as lutein, canthaxanthin (canthaxantin), cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin, and astaxanthin. Lutein protects compounds such as vitamin a, vitamin E and other carotenoids.
Flavonoids may be used as antioxidants. In some examples, the flavonoid is flavanone (a derivative of 2, 3-dihydro-2-phenylchroman-4-one). The flavanones include: butin, eriodictyol, hesperetin, hesperidin, homoeriodictyol, isosbestrol, naringenin, naringin, pinocembrin, aurantium, primeverin, and Sterubin. The flavonoid may be a flavanonol (derivative of 3-hydroxy-2, 3-dihydro-2-phenylchroman-4-one). Flavanols include: taxifolin, aromadedrin, bai Juzao glycoside A, bai Juzao glycoside B, isoflavone lignan, astilbin, and genistein. The flavonoid may be a flavone (derivative of 2-phenylchroman-4-one). The flavone comprises: apigenin, luteolin, chrysin, baicalein, wogonin, and synthetic flavone: diosmin and flavonpiprazole. The flavonoid may be a flavonol (derivative of 3-hydroxy-2-phenylchroman-4-one). Flavonols include: 3-hydroxyflavone, azalea extract, fisetin, galangin, gossypin, kaempferide, kaempferol, isorhamnetin, morin, myricetin, sasanquain, magnolol, quercetin, rhamnetin, azalea extract, hyperin, isoquercetin, kaempferide, myricetin, quercitrin, luo Binsu, rutin, spirocyclic glycoside, xanthosine, al Mo Ruisu, icariin and troxerutin. The flavonoid may be flavan-3-ol (a derivative of 2-phenyl-3, 4-dihydro-2H-chroman-3-ol). Flavan-3-ols include: catechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin, epicatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate, fepristal, cinnamyl, mesityl and ropinirole. The flavonoid may be flavan-4-ol (a derivative of 2-phenylchroman-4-ol). Flavan-4-ols include: apiferol and chlorobutanol. The flavonoid may be isoflavone (derivative of 3-phenylchroman-4-one). The isoflavones include: genistein, daidzein, biochanin a, formononetin and equol metabolites of daidzein.
The antioxidant may be an anthocyanin (a derivative of the 2-phenyl chroman onium cation). The anthocyanidin comprises: auraninidin, cyanidin, delphinidin, eulerin, luteolinidin, pelargonidin, malvidin, paeoniflorin, petuniin, luo Sending, and xanthone.
The antioxidant may be dihydrochalcone (a derivative of 1, 3-diphenyl-1-propanone). Dihydrochalcones include: phloretin, dihydrochalcone, phloretin, aspartame, naringenin dihydrochalcone, neohesperidin dihydrochalcone, and Nothofagin. Without limiting the mode of action of the invention, dihydrochalcones may exert an antioxidant effect by reducing reactive free radicals, such as reactive oxygen and reactive nitrogen species.
The antioxidant may be anthocyanin. Anthocyanin and its derivatives are antioxidants. Anthocyanins comprise a class of flavonoids, which are naturally occurring water-soluble compounds responsible for the red, violet and blue colors of many fruits, vegetables, grains and flowers. In addition, anthocyanins are collagenase inhibitors. Inhibition of collagenase helps prevent and reduce wrinkles, increase skin elasticity, etc., which are caused by reduction of skin collagen. The anthocyanins may be obtained from any part of a variety of plant sources, such as fruits, flowers, stems, leaves, roots, bark or seeds. Those skilled in the art will appreciate that certain parts of the plant may contain higher natural levels of anthocyanins, and thus, those parts are used to obtain the desired anthocyanins. In some cases, the antioxidant may include one or more beta anthocyanins. Like anthocyanins, betacyanins are available from natural sources and are antioxidants.
The antioxidant may be phenylpropanoid (a derivative of cinnamic acid). The phenylpropanoid includes: cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, trans-ferulic acid (including antioxidants Pharmacore, 6-dihydroxyacetophenone thereof), 5-hydroxyferulic acid, sinapic acid, citronellol, coniferyl alcohol, sinapyl alcohol, eugenol, piperonyl alcohol, safrole, P-coumaric acid and sinapic acid. Without limiting the mode of action of the invention, the phenylpropanoids can neutralize free radicals.
The antioxidant may be chalcone (a derivative of 1, 3-diphenyl-2-propen-1-one). Chalcones include: butein, huang Kuisu, carthamin, calycosin, matrine, xanthohumol, flavonoid glycoside A, flavonoid glycoside B, flavonoid glycoside C, and synthetic sand falcone.
The antioxidant may be a curcuminoid. Curcuminoids include: curcumin, demethoxycurcumin, bisdemethoxycurcumin, tetrahydrocurcumin and tetrahydrocurcumin compounds. Curcumin and tetrahydrocurcumin compounds can be extracted from Curcuma rhizome. Tetrahydrocurcumin, a metabolite of curcumin, has been found to be a more potent antioxidant and more stable than curcumin.
The antioxidant may be tannin. The tannin comprises: tannins, terxanthin B, gluconic acid, gallic acid and quercetin tannic acid.
Antioxidants may be stilbenes. Stilbenes include: resveratrol, pterostilbene and piceatannol. Resveratrol may include, but is not limited to, 3,5,4 '-trihydroxy stilbene, 3,4,3',5 '-tetrahydroxy stilbene (piceatannol), 2,3',4,5 '-tetrahydroxy stilbene (oxyresveratrol), 4' -dihydroxystilbene and alpha and beta glucosides, galactosides and mannoside derivatives thereof.
The antioxidant may be coumarin (a derivative of 2H-chroman-2-one). Coumarin includes: 4-hydroxycoumarin, umbelliferone, esculetin, hernia protein, auraptene, and bishydroxycoumarin.
The antioxidant may be a carotenoid. Carotenoids include: beta-carotene, alpha-carotene, gamma-carotene, beta-cryptoxanthin, lycopene, lutein, and idebenone. Sesame (sesame) or sesamol may also be added. Sesame and its lignans (fibrous compounds associated with sesame) act as antioxidants. The lignans of sesame seeds significantly enhance the vitamin E activity.
The antioxidant may be: flavone, butylated hydroxytoluene, 2, 6-di-tert-butylphenol, 2, 4-dimethyl-6-tert-butylphenol, gallic acid, eugenol, uric acid, alpha-lipoic acid, ellagic acid, chicoric acid, chlorogenic acid, rosmarinic acid, salicylic acid, acetylcysteine, S-allylcysteine, barbitone, chebulic acid, edaravone, ethoxyquin, glutathione, hydroxytyrosol, idebenone, melatonin, N-acetylserotonin, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, oleuropein, paradol, piceatannol, probucol, propyl gallate, protocatechuic acid, pyritinol, rutin, secoisolariciresinol diglucoside, sesamin, silybin, silymarin, theaflavin gallate, tea quinone, trolox, tyrosol, polyunsaturated fatty acids and sulfur-containing antioxidants such as methionine or lipoic acid.
Skin active agent
Non-limiting examples of skin active agents include: madecassoside, retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulphur, vitamin B6 (pyridoxine or) chloride, selenium, salicornia-cinnamon extract blend, tea and octanoylglycine, for example-15Sepicontrol A5 TEA from Seppic; in particular the mixture of cinnamon, sarcosine and octanoylglycine sold under the trade name SepicontrolA by Seppic; zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate, zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate 20, zinc cysteinate (zinc cysteate); Derivatives, in particular copper and copper picolinate, as Cuivridone Solabia; -an extract from: arnica (Arnica montana), herba Nardostachyos (Cinchona succirubra), flos Caryophylli (Eugenia caryophyllata), flos Lupuli (Humulus lupulus), herba Hyperici perforati (Hypericum perforatum), herba Menthae (MENTHA PIPENTA) 25, herba Rosmarini officinalis (Rosmarinus officinalis), herba Salvia officinalis (Salvia officinalis) and herba Thymi (Thymusvulgaris), all sold, for example, by Maruzen; An extract of spiraea ulmaria (Spiraea ulmaria), such as that sold by Silab under the name Sebonormine; extracts of seaweed LAMINARIA SACCHARINA, such as that sold under the name Phlorogine by Biotechmarine; -root extract of the sanguisorba officinalis mixture (sanguisorba officinalis (Sanguisorba officinalis)/sanguisorba longifolia (Poterium officinale)), rhizome of ginger (Zingiber officinalis) and (extract of) cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as that sold by solasia under the name Sebustop; An extract of flaxseed, such as that sold under the name Linumine by Lucas Meyer; phellodendron (Phelloodendron) extracts, such as those sold by Maruzen under the name Phellodendron extract BG or by Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Oubaku liquid B; - -Serenoa serrulata organic nut oil extract (saw palmetto (saw palmetto)) extract and sesame seed extract, such as that sold by pentacharm under the name Regu SEB; Mixtures of extracts of blue ANG, myrobalan (TERMINALIA CHEBULA), saussurea involucrata and bio-available zinc (microalgae), such as that sold under the name Seborilys GREEN TECH; -an extract of pygeum africanum (Pygeum afrianum), such as that sold under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract by Euromed; extracts of saw palmetto (Serenoa serrulata), such as those sold under the name Viapure Sabal by Actives International, and those sold by Euromed company; -an extract of plantain blend, an extract of berberis thunbergii (Berberis aquifolium) and sodium salicylate 20, such as that sold under the name Seboclear Rahn; -lilac extract, such as that sold by Maruzen under the name Clove extract powder; morocco nut oil, such as that sold under the name Lipofructyl Laboratories Serobiologiques; 25-milk protein filtrate (1 actic protein filtrates), such as that sold under the name Normaseb by Sederma; -seaweed laminaria extracts, such as that sold under the name LAMINARGHANE by Biotechmarine; -oligosaccharide seaweed kelp palm (LAMINARIA DIGITATA), such as that sold under the name Phycosaccharide AC by Codif company; an extract of sugar cane, such as that sold under the name Policosanol by Sabinsa company; sulfonated shale oils, such as that sold under the name Ichtyol Pale by Ichthyol; an extract of spiraea ulmaria (Spiraea ulmaria), such as that sold by societeLibiol under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire; Sebacic acid, in particular sold by Sederma under the name Sebosoft in the form of sodium polyacrylate gel; glucomannans extracted from konjak tubers and modified with alkyl sulfonate chains, such as that sold under the name Biopol Beta by ARCH CHEMICAL; extracts of kuh-seng (Sophora angustifolia), such as those sold under the name Sophora powder or Sophoraextract by Bioland; an extract of the Bark of the tree Cinnamomum, such as that sold by Alban Muller under the name Red Bark HS; -an extract of quillaja (Quillaja saponaria), such as that sold under the name 15Panamawood HS by Alban Muller; glycine grafted onto the undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UGOR by SEPPIC; mixtures of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid, such as that sold by Sederma under the name ac.net in gel form; 20-phthalimido peroxy caproic acid; -tri (C12-C13) citrate sold by Sasol under the name cosmarol. Tri (C14-C15) alkyl citrate sold by Sasol under the name cosmarol. -10-hydroxydecanoic acid, including the mixtures hydroxydecanoic acid October 25, sebacic acid and 1, 10-decanediol, such as that sold under the name Acnacidol BG by VINCIENCE; and mixtures thereof.
Depigmenting agent
Non-limiting examples of depigmenting agents include alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, gentisic acid, methylgentisate or homogentisate, diacid, calcium D pantethenyl sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, certain compounds derived from plants such as chamomile, bearberry, aloe vera (vera, ferox, bardensis), mulberry, scutellaria, kiwi (kiwi) sold by Gattefosse, peony root extracts such as syrup extract sold by Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Liquid Botanpi Be, brown sugar (Saccharum officinarum) extracts such as the name Liquid Molasses sold by Taiyo Kagaku, but this list is not exhaustive. Specific depigmenting agents include alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, calcium D pantetheine sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, actinidia chinensis (kiwi) sold by Gattefosse, peony root extracts, for example sold by Ichimaru Pharcos company at Botanpi Liquid B.
Anti-wrinkle agent
The term "anti-wrinkle agent" refers to a natural or synthetic compound that produces a biological effect when contacted with a wrinkled skin area, such as an increase in the synthesis and/or activity of certain enzymes, which has the effect of reducing the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines. Non-limiting examples of anti-wrinkling agents include: desquamation agents, anti-glycation agents, NO synthase inhibitors, agents that stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or prevent their degradation, agents that stimulate proliferation of fibroblasts and/or keratinocytes, or agents that stimulate reduced keratinocyte differentiation; muscle relaxants and/or skin shrinkage reducers, anti-radical agents, and mixtures thereof. Examples of such compounds are: adenosine and its derivatives and retinoids other than retinol (as described above, e.g., retinol palmitate), ascorbic acid and its derivatives, e.g., magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; nicotinic acid and its precursors, such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and precursors thereof, such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid, in particular the compound C-glycoside described in EP-1345919 and its derivatives, in particular C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane described in EP-1345919, plant extracts, including sea fennel and olive leaf extracts, and plants and their hydrolysates, such as rice protein hydrolysates or soy proteins; algae extract, and in particular kelp, bacterial extract, sapogenins such as diosgenin, and extracts of plants of the genus dioscorea, in particular wild yam, comprising: alpha-hydroxy acids, f 3-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicyl oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides and acyl derivatives thereof, in particular the acids {2- [ acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino ] -3-methyl } acetic acid and lipopeptides, sold by the company under the trade names SEDERMA matrix 500 and matrix 3000; lycopene, manganese salts and magnesium salts, especially gluconate, and mixtures thereof. In at least one instance, the skin tightening composition comprises an adenosine derivative, for example a non-phosphate derivative of adenosine, such as in particular 2' -deoxyadenosine, 2',3' -adenosyl isopropylidene; toyocamycin, 1-methyladenosine, N-6-methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide, 6-methyl mercaptopurine nucleoside and 6-chloropurine nucleoside. Other derivatives include adenosine receptor agonists such as adenosine phenylisopropyl ("PIA"), 1-methylisoguanosine, N6-Cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N6-Cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N6-phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, MECA, N6-phenylethyl adenosine, 2-p- (2-carboxy-ethyl) phenethyl-amino-5 '-N-ethylcarboxamido adenosine (CGS-21680), N-ethylcarboxamido adenosine (NECA), 5' (N-cyclopropyl) -carboxamido adenosine, DPMA (PD 129.944) and mebendazole.
As described above, the skin active agent may be included as one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Regarding the total amount of skin active agent in the cosmetic composition, the total amount of skin active agent, if present, may be from greater than zero to about 9 wt%, from greater than zero to about 8 wt%, from greater than zero to about 7 wt%, from greater than zero to about 6 wt%, from greater than zero to about 5 wt%, from greater than zero to about 4 wt%, from greater than zero to about 3 wt%, from greater than zero to about 2 wt%; about 10ppm to about 10 wt% (100,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 5 wt% (50,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 2.5 wt% (25,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 1 wt% (10,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 0.5 wt% (5,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 0.3 wt% (3,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 0.2 wt% (2,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 0.1 wt% (1,000 ppm), about 10ppm to 500 ppm. About 0.1 to about 10 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, about 0.1 to about 2.5 wt%, about 0.1 to about 1 wt%, about 0.1 to about 0.5 wt%; about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 6 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, about 1 to about 4 wt%, about 1 to about 3 wt%; about 2 to about 10 wt%, about 2 to about 8 wt%, about 2 to about 6 wt%, about 2 to about 5 wt%, about 2 to about 4 wt%; about 3 to about 10 wt%, about 3 to about 8 wt%, about 3 to about 6 wt%, about 3 to about 5 wt%, about 4 to about 10 wt%, about 4 to about 8 wt%, or about 4 to about 6 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Example 15
(Miscibility data)
Aliquots of the various compositions were physically mixed together to determine if they were miscible with each other. The degree of miscibility was evaluated on a scale of 1 to 5, where 1 indicates very poor miscibility (i.e., formation of lumps, sedimentation, coagulation, phase separation, etc.), and 5 indicates excellent miscibility (no lumps, sedimentation, coagulation, phase separation, etc.). The results are shown in the following table.
Definition of the definition
As used herein, miscibility relates to the ability of one or more cosmetic compositions to be physically mixed and form a homogeneous mixture for immediate application to the skin without visible signs of aggregation, sedimentation, coagulation and phase separation.
As used herein, a "gel emulsion" is also referred to in the art as an "emulsion gel". A "gel emulsion" is an oil-in-water emulsion, which is a composite structure of oil droplets in a gel matrix. They can be classified into emulsion filled gels and emulsion microgels.
The terms "comprising," "having," and "including" (or "comprising," "having," and "including") as used herein are used in their open, non-limiting sense. The phrase "consisting essentially of …" limits the scope of the claims to the specified materials or steps as well as those materials or steps that do not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics of the claimed invention.
The terms "a" and "an" and "the" are to be interpreted as including the plural as well as the singular.
Thus, the term "a mixture thereof" also refers to "mixtures thereof. Throughout this disclosure, if the term "mixture thereof" is used after a list of elements shown in the following examples, where the letters a-F represent the elements: "one or more elements selected from A, B, C, D, E, F and mixtures thereof". The term "mixture thereof" does not require that the mixture include all A, B, C, D, E and F (although all A, B, C, D, E and F may be included). Rather, it means that a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase "one or more elements selected from A, B, C, D, E, F, and mixtures of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E and F.
Likewise, the same is true. The term "a salt thereof" also relates to "salts thereof". Thus, when the present disclosure refers to "an element selected from A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, or a mixture thereof," it means that one or more of A, B, C, D and F may be included, one or more of a salt, B salt, C salt, D salt, E salt, and F salt may be included, or a mixture of any two of the following may be included: A. b, C, D, E, F, A, B, C, D, E and F.
Salts referred to throughout this disclosure may include salts with counterions such as alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium counterions. However, the list of counterions is not limiting. Suitable counterions for the components described herein are known in the art.
The expression "one or more" means "at least one" and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
The term "plurality" means "more than one" or "two or more".
"Alkyl" is a radical based on a saturated hydrocarbon, straight or branched, in particular C 1-C8, more particularly C 1-C6, preferably C 1-C4, such as methyl, ethyl, isopropyl and tert-butyl;
"alkoxy" is alkyl-oxy, wherein alkyl is as described above;
"alkenyl" is a radical based on a linear or branched unsaturated hydrocarbon, in particular C 2-C8, more in particular C 2-C6, preferably C 2-C4, such as ethenyl, propenyl;
"alkylene" is a radical based on a straight-chain or branched divalent saturated C 1-C8, especially C 1-C6, preferably C 1-C4 hydrocarbon, such as methylene, ethylene or propylene.
Some of the various component categories identified for the cosmetic composition may overlap. Where there may be overlap and the composition/product comprises two overlapping components (or more than two overlapping components), the overlapping components do not represent more than one component. For example, fatty acids may be considered as both "non-triglycerides and non-aromatic fatty emollients" and "surfactants/emulsifiers". "if a particular composition/product contains both non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty emollient components and a surfactant/emulsifier component, a single type of fatty acid may be used as the only non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty emollient or surfactant/emulsifier (a single fatty acid cannot be used as both the non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty emollient components and the surfactant/emulsifier component).
All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the composition of the present invention, unless otherwise specified.
All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within the scope described herein may be used as a minimum value or a maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc. Furthermore, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within the given range and combinations of sub-ranges between the given ranges. Thus, a range of 1-5 explicitly includes points 1,2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as sub-ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, and the like; and the points of 1,2, 3, 4, and 5 include ranges and subranges from 1 to 5, 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, and so forth.
Except in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about", whether or not explicitly indicated.
Furthermore, all numbers are intended to represent precise values as additional embodiments, whether or not modified by the term "about". For example, an "amount of about 1% may be modified to refer to exactly 1%. As a further example, "1% amount" may be modified to refer to "about 1%". The term "about" should be understood to include the range of +/-10% of the stated value, unless otherwise specified. However, in some embodiments, the term may be defined to encompass narrower ranges, such as +/-1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, and 10% of the stated value.
The terms "surfactant" and "emulsifier" include salts of surfactants and emulsifiers, even if not explicitly stated. In other words, whenever the present disclosure refers to a surfactant or emulsifier, it means: salts are also contemplated to the extent that such salts are present, even though the specification may not specifically mention the salts (or may not mention the salts in each instance throughout the present disclosure) -for example by using a language such as "a salt thereof" or "salts thereof". Sodium and potassium are common cations that form salts with surfactants and emulsifiers. However, additional cations such as ammonium ions or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolamine or triethanolamine ions may also form salts of the surfactant.
The term "substantially free (substantially free)" or "substantially free (ESSENTIALLY FREE)" as used herein means that the particular material may be present in small amounts that do not significantly affect the basic and novel characteristics of the claimed invention. For example, the particular material added to the composition may be less than 2 wt% (provided that the amount of less than 2 wt% does not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics of the claimed invention), based on the total weight of the composition. Similarly, a composition "substantially free" or "substantially free" of the material may comprise less than 1.5 wt.%, less than 1 wt.%, less than 0.5 wt.%, less than 0.1 wt.%, less than 0.05 wt.%, or less than 0.01 wt.%, or no specified material. As used herein, the term "substantially free" or "substantially free" may also refer to a particular material not being added to a composition, but may still be present in the raw materials contained in the composition.
Furthermore, all components explicitly set forth in the disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims, e.g., the claimed compositions may be "free", "substantially free" (or "substantially free") of one or more components explicitly set forth in the disclosure. For example, silicone may optionally be included in the cosmetic composition, but preferably the composition is free or substantially free of silicone. Silicones are synthetic polymers composed of a combination of repeating units of siloxane, elemental silicon and oxygen, and other elements most commonly carbon and hydrogen. Thus, silicones are also known as polysiloxanes. In some cases, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may be free or substantially free of dimethicone, amino terminal dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclosiloxanes, silicones, and the like.
All publications and patent applications cited in this specification are herein incorporated by reference and for any and all purposes as if each individual publication or patent application were specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by reference. In particular, U.S. provisional application Nos. 63/273,968, 63/273,966, 63/273,965, 63/273,963, 63/273,962 and 63/273,958 to October 31,2021 are incorporated herein by reference in their entireties. In the event of an inconsistency between the present disclosure and any of the publications or patent applications incorporated by reference herein, the present disclosure shall control.

Claims (26)

1. A kit comprising two or more separately housed cosmetic compositions that are miscible with each other when mixed, wherein each of the two or more compositions comprises:
(a) A viscosity of at least 1,800cps or a storage modulus (G') greater than the loss modulus (G ") for viscosities lower than 1,800 cps; and
(B) A maximum yield stress of 9,000Pa, e.g., a maximum yield stress of less than 7,500Pa, less than 5,000Pa, less than 2,500Pa, less than 2,000Pa, less than 1,500Pa, or less than 1,250 Pa; and
Wherein the two or more cosmetic compositions are selected from:
(i) An oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least 40 wt% water and from about 1 to about 20wt% oil phase, based on the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion;
(ii) A water-in-silicone emulsion comprising at least 70 wt% of an aqueous phase (internal phase) based on the total weight of the silicone emulsion; and
(Iii) An anhydrous composition, wherein at least 90% by weight of the ingredients forming the anhydrous composition have a log P value of 2 or less, e.g., 1.5 or less, 1 or less, 0.75 or less, 0.5 or less, 0.25 or less, or 0.
2. The kit of claim 1, wherein at least one of the two or more compositions is an oil-in-water emulsion.
3. The kit of claim 2, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion comprises retinol, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, trifluoromethylphenyl valyl glycine, ceramide, or a mixture thereof.
4. The kit of claim 2 or 3, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion comprises retinol.
5. The kit of any one of claims 2-4, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion comprises hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, e.g., about 10 to about 40 weight percent hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol based on the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion.
6. The kit of any one of claims 2-5, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion further comprises 4-t-butylcyclohexanol.
7. The kit of any one of claims 2-6, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion comprises acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valyl glycine, e.g., about 1 to about 5 wt.% acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valyl glycine.
8. The kit of claim 1, wherein at least one of the two or more compositions is a water-in-silicone emulsion.
9. The kit of claim 8, wherein the water-in-silicone emulsion comprises hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, e.g., from about 15 to about 60 weight percent hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, based on the total weight of the water-in-silicone emulsion.
10. The kit of claim 1, wherein at least one of the two or more compositions is an anhydrous composition.
11. The kit of claim 10, wherein the anhydrous composition comprises ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, or a mixture thereof, e.g., about 5 to about 20 wt.% ascorbic acid and/or about 0.5 to about 10 wt.% ferulic acid, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
12. The kit of any one of the above claims, wherein the kit is a device for independently dispensing a specified amount of each of the two or more cosmetic compositions, wherein the device comprises a dispensing assembly configured to receive a plurality of cartridges in which the two or more cosmetic compositions are individually contained, and a receiving area into which each of the two or more cosmetic compositions is dispensed.
13. The device of claim 12, wherein each of the plurality of cartridges contains a different cosmetic composition.
14. The apparatus according to claim 12 or 13, wherein the apparatus further comprises:
A memory configured to receive and store dispensing information comprising a specified amount of cosmetic composition to be dispensed from each cartridge; and
Circuitry configured to obtain the dispensing information from the memory and control the dispensing assembly to dispense the specified amounts of the cosmetic composition from each cartridge.
15. A method for treating skin, comprising:
(A) Mixing two or more cosmetic compositions that are miscible with each other when mixed, wherein each of the two or more compositions comprises:
(a) A viscosity of at least 1,800cps or a storage modulus (G') greater than the loss modulus (G ") for viscosities lower than 1,800 cps; and
(B) A maximum yield stress of 9,000Pa, e.g., a maximum yield stress of less than 7,500Pa, less than 5,000Pa, less than 2,500Pa, less than 2,000Pa, less than 1,500Pa, or less than 1,250 Pa; and
Wherein the two or more cosmetic compositions are selected from:
(i) An oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least 40 wt% water and from about 1 to about 20wt% oil phase, based on the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion;
(ii) A water-in-silicone emulsion comprising at least 70wt% of an aqueous phase (internal phase) based on the total weight of the silicone emulsion; and
(Iii) An anhydrous composition, wherein at least 90% by weight of the ingredients forming the anhydrous composition have the following log P values: a log P value of 2 or less, e.g., 1.5 or less, 1 or less, 0.75 or less, 0.5 or less, 0.25 or less, or 0; and
(B) The mixture is applied to the skin.
16. The method of claim 15, wherein at least one of the two or more compositions is an oil-in-water emulsion.
17. The method of claim 16, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion comprises retinol, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, trifluoromethylphenyl valyl glycine, or mixtures thereof.
18. The method of claim 16 or 17, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion comprises retinol.
19. The method of any one of claims 16-18, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion comprises hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, e.g., about 10 to about 40 weight percent hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol based on the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion.
20. The method of any one of claims 16-19, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion further comprises 4-t-butylcyclohexanol.
21. A method according to any one of claims 16-20, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion comprises acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valyl glycine, e.g., about 1 to about 5 wt.% acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valyl glycine.
22. The method of claim 15, wherein at least one of the two or more compositions is a water-in-silicone emulsion.
23. The method of claim 20, wherein the water-in-silicone emulsion comprises hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, for example, from about 15 to about 60 weight percent hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, based on the total weight of the water-in-silicone emulsion.
24. The method of any one of claims 15-23, wherein the two or more compositions are contained in an apparatus for independently dispensing a specified amount of each of the two or more cosmetic compositions, wherein the apparatus comprises a dispensing assembly configured to receive a plurality of cartridges in which the two or more cosmetic compositions are respectively contained, and a receiving area to which each of the two or more cosmetic compositions is dispensed.
25. The method of claim 24, wherein each of the plurality of cartridges contains a different cosmetic composition.
26. The method of claim 24 or 25, wherein the apparatus further comprises:
A memory configured to receive and store dispensing information comprising a specified amount of cosmetic composition to be dispensed from each cartridge; and
Circuitry configured to obtain the dispensing information from the memory and control the dispensing assembly to dispense the specified amounts of the cosmetic composition from each cartridge.
CN202280079614.6A 2021-11-30 2022-11-28 Kit and method for treating skin Pending CN118354749A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

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US202163284239P 2021-11-30 2021-11-30
US63/284239 2021-11-30
FR2200833 2022-01-31
PCT/US2022/051049 WO2023101902A1 (en) 2021-11-30 2022-11-28 Kit and method for treating skin

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