CN118284402A

CN118284402A - Cosmetic composition comprising a high amount of retinol

Info

Publication number: CN118284402A
Application number: CN202280073206.XA
Authority: CN
Inventors: J·J·法伊; Y·J·尹; S·哈尔彭切尔奇; A·加尔迪
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2021-10-31
Filing date: 2022-10-28
Publication date: 2024-07-02

Abstract

The present disclosure relates to stable cosmetic compositions containing high amounts of retinol. The cosmetic composition further comprises, inter alia, a plurality of nonionic emulsifiers, fatty alcohols, fatty compounds, thickening polymers and water. Methods of stabilizing large amounts of retinol and methods of treating skin with the cosmetic compositions are also described. Methods of stabilizing cosmetic compositions containing substantial amounts of retinol and methods of preserving substantial amounts of retinol are also described. The disclosure also describes methods of treatment with the cosmetic compositions.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising a high amount of retinol

Cross reference to related applications

The application claims the benefit of U.S. serial No. 63/273,966 filed on day 10, month 31 of 2021 and the benefit of french application No. FR 2200829 filed on day 1, 2022, which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

Technical Field

The present disclosure relates to stable cosmetic compositions comprising a substantial amount of retinol; and to a method of stabilizing a cosmetic composition containing a high amount of retinol. The present disclosure also describes methods of treating skin with the cosmetic compositions.

Disclosure of Invention

In one aspect, the present disclosure relates, inter alia, to cosmetic compositions comprising surprisingly high amounts of retinol. Retinol provides numerous cosmetic benefits to the skin, but historically is very difficult to stabilize, especially at high levels. Retinol is also prone to degradation and thus difficult to incorporate into the composition without degradation over time. The inventors have developed, inter alia, surprisingly stable compositions comprising a high amount of retinol, which retinol is preserved (resistant to degradation). Due to the high amount of retinol, the cosmetic composition provides excellent cosmetic properties to the skin, such as promotion of collagen and/or elastin production, reduction of appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and uneven skin tone, tightening of the skin, prevention and/or treatment of acne, reduction of melanin development, and improvement and lightening of the complexion.

In one aspect, the present disclosure relates, inter alia, to cosmetic compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises:

(a) Retinol;

(b) A plurality of nonionic emulsifiers comprising:

(i) One or more ethoxylated fatty acids; and

(Ii) One or more nonionic emulsifiers having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of from about 9 to about 12;

(iii) Optionally one or more glycerides;

(iv) Optionally one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers;

(c) One or more fatty alcohols;

(d) One or more fatty compounds;

(e) One or more thickening polymers; and

(F) And (3) water.

Non-limiting examples of ethoxylated fatty acids include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric, palmitic, stearic or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (as INCI name: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (as INCI name: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (as INCI name: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitoyl stearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (as INCI name: PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100EO monostearate (INCI name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of about 9 to about 12 include alkyl polyglucosides (e.g., C12-20 alkyl glucosides), polyglycerol-based emulsifiers (e.g., polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate), sorbitan fatty esters, sugar fatty esters, polyol fatty esters, ethoxylates thereof, or mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of glycerides include di-diglyceride-2, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolinate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or mixtures thereof. In at least one instance, the glyceride comprises glycerol stearate, di-diglyceride polyacyl adipate, glycerol ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include fatty alcohols having 12 to 24 carbon atoms, particularly C14-24 alcohols, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tetradecyl or myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignan alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds include fatty esters (e.g., diisopropyl sebacate, isononyl isononanoate), polyolefins (petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, vegetable and/or vegetable oils (e.g., soybean oil), hydrocarbon-based oils (isohexadecane), silicone oils (e.g., polydimethylsiloxane, dimethiconol), and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of thickening polymers include taurine salt copolymers, polyacrylates, polyacrylamides, and the like, such as polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6, sodium polyacrylate, polyacrylamide. Non-limiting examples of taurine salt copolymers include acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include glycerin, C ₂-C₅ monohydric alcohols, polyhydric alcohols (polyhydroxy alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the one or more water-soluble solvents may be selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, t-butanol, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition may optionally comprise one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Non-limiting examples of miscellaneous ingredients include miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants, preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids (flavonoids), vitamins, plant extracts, UV filters, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescers, fillers, colorants, matting agents, other skin-active agents, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkle agents, and mixtures thereof, in addition to the nonionic emulsifiers of the various nonionic emulsifiers of (b). In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one other skin active agent.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition forms part of a kit comprising a cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure and one or more separately contained compositions. In one embodiment, these compositions are contained in a device, such as a device that dispenses the cosmetic composition and one or more separately contained compositions. In one embodiment, the device mixes the cosmetic composition with one or more additional cosmetic compositions prior to dispensing the mixture. In another embodiment, the device separately and optionally simultaneously dispenses the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure with one or more additional cosmetic compositions (without mixing them prior to dispensing them). Although a large amount of retinol is contained in the cosmetic composition, the compositions are unique in that they are compatible with other cosmetic compositions, particularly other cosmetic compositions for treating skin.

Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to a method of treating skin. The method comprises applying a cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure to the skin. In one embodiment, the method involves promoting collagen and/or elastin production, reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone, tightening the skin, preventing and/or treating acne, reducing the development of melanin, and improving and lightening the complexion.

Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to a method for stabilizing a cosmetic composition containing a high amount of retinol. Another aspect of the present disclosure is to stabilize and preserve a substantial amount of retinol in the cosmetic composition. The methods described throughout this disclosure include incorporating a quantity of retinol into the compositions of this disclosure.

Other features and aspects of the invention are described in more detail below.

Detailed Description

A common problem associated with formulating compositions, especially compositions comprising multiple components, is ensuring physical stability, chemical stability, solubility, etc. Many additives incorporated into foods, cosmetics, personal care products and household items are difficult to stabilize and dissolve, especially when used in large amounts. The consequences of stability and solubility problems are significant. For example, stability problems may result in partial (if not complete) loss of product integrity, color loss, malodor, viscosity changes, and the like. Stability and solubility problems may result in an increase or decrease in the amount of the relevant component to be administered. With respect to active ingredients, stability and solubility issues reduce or eliminate activity and prevent the active ingredient from reaching its intended target in the desired amount.

With aging, even if the number of cell layers remains unchanged, the outer skin layer (epidermis) becomes thin. But the number of pigment-containing cells (melanocytes) is reduced. Thus, the skin looks pale and translucent. Large pigment spots (age spots, chloasma or freckles) may appear in areas exposed to sunlight. Changes in connective tissue can reduce the strength and elasticity of the skin. This is known as elastosis. It is more pronounced in areas exposed to sunlight (solar elastosis). Elastosis creates a leather-like, saturated wind cream appearance common to farmers, water hands and others who spend a significant amount of time outdoors. Dehydration increases the risk of skin damage. Malnutrition can also have a negative impact on the skin, leading to dryness, rashes and edema.

The human skin acts as the first barrier between the body and its environment. Essential for this skin barrier function is the lipid matrix in the outermost layer of the skin (epidermis), the Stratum Corneum (SC). Two of its functions are (1) to prevent excessive moisture loss through the epidermis, and (2) to avoid penetration of compounds from the environment into the living epidermis and dermis layers and thereby elicit an immune response. The composition of SC lipid matrices is dominated by three lipid classes: cholesterol, free fatty acids and ceramides. These lipids adopt a highly ordered three-dimensional structure of stacked densely arranged lipid layers (lipid sheets): lateral and lamellar lipid organization. The manner in which these lipids are ordered depends on the composition of the lipids. A very common skin disorder in which SC lipid barriers are affected is Atopic Dermatitis (AD).

What is particularly needed is a stable composition that contains and maintains high concentrations of retinol that promotes collagen and/or elastin production, reduces the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone, tightens the skin, prevents and/or treats acne, reduces the development of melanin, and improves and lightens the complexion.

In one embodiment, the present disclosure relates, inter alia, to cosmetic compositions comprising a substantial amount of retinol; and to a method of stabilizing (preserving) large amounts of retinol. In one embodiment, the composition comprises:

(a) About 0.05 to about 6 weight percent retinol;

(b) From about 1 to about 8 weight percent of a plurality of nonionic emulsifiers comprising:

(i) One or more ethoxylated fatty acids; and

(iii) Optionally one or more glycerides;

(iv) Optionally one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers;

(c) About 0.1 to about 8 weight percent of one or more fatty alcohols;

(d) About 1 to about 20 weight percent of one or more fatty compounds;

(e) One or more thickening polymers; and

(F) Water;

Wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(A) Retinol

Retinol (also known as vitamin a ₁) is a vitamin in the vitamin a family. Retinol, in particular, promotes the surface renewal process of the skin and helps strengthen the skin's foundation to minimize the appearance of age spots, improve the skin's texture, and help combat the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

The amount of retinol will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the amount of retinol in the cosmetic composition is from about 0.05 to about 6 weight percent, based on the total weight of the composition. In further embodiments, the amount of retinol in the composition is from about 0.05 to about 5 weight percent, from about 0.05 to about 4 weight percent, from about 0.05 to about 3 weight percent, from about 0.05 to about 2 weight percent, from about 0.1 to about 6 weight percent, from about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, from about 0.1 to about 4 weight percent, from about 0.1 to about 3 weight percent, from about 0.1 to about 2 weight percent, from about 0.5 to about 5 weight percent, from about 0.5 to about 4 weight percent, from about 0.5 to about 3 weight percent, or from about 0.5 to about 2 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(B) Multiple nonionic emulsifiers

The cosmetic composition may comprise a variety of nonionic emulsifiers. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises a plurality of nonionic emulsifiers comprising or consisting of: (i) one or more ethoxylated fatty acids; and (ii) one or more nonionic emulsifiers having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of about 9 to about 12; (iii) optionally one or more glycerides; and (iv) optionally one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers. The plurality of nonionic emulsifiers represents all nonionic emulsifiers in the cosmetic composition.

The total amount of the plurality of nonionic emulsifiers (all nonionic emulsifiers) in the cosmetic composition will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the total amount of the plurality of nonionic emulsifiers is from about 1 to about 8wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of the plurality of nonionic emulsifiers is from about 1 to about 6wt%, from about 1 to about 5wt%, from about 1 to about 4wt%, from about 1 to about 3 wt%, from about 1.1 to about 8wt%, from about 1.1 to about 6wt%, from about 1.1 to about 5wt%, from about 1.1 to about 4wt%, from about 1.1 to about 3 wt%, from about 1.1 to about 2wt%, from about 1.5 to about 8wt%, from about 1.5 to about 6wt%, from about 1.5 to about 5wt%, from about 1.5 to about 4wt%, or from about 1.5 to about 3 wt%, from 2 to about 8wt%, from about 2 to about 6wt%, from about 2 to about 5wt%, from about 2 to about 4wt%, or from about 2 to about 3 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(B) (i) ethoxylated fatty acids

Ethoxylated fatty acids, also known as "fatty acid ethoxylates," are produced by the process of ethoxylating fatty acids. These are nonionic surfactants made by adding ethylene oxide to fatty acids to produce a series of ethoxylates with different EO moles. Ethoxylated fatty acids cover the range of clear liquids, pasty or waxy solids. This property depends on the length of the alkyl chain and the apparent number of ethoxy groups. Because ethoxylated fatty acids have various HLB values based on their EO moles.

In embodiments, the one or more ethoxylated fatty acids are esters with fatty acids having a chain length of C12-C40 and a degree of ethoxylation of up to 100, preferably 5-100, such as PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, and mixtures thereof.

The total amount of the one or more ethoxylated fatty acids may be from about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more ethoxylated fatty acids may be from about 0.1 to about 4 wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 2 wt.%, from about 0.2 to about 5 wt.%, from about 0.2 to about 4 wt.%, from about 0.2 to about 3 wt.%, or from about 0.2 to about 2 wt.%, from about 0.4 to about 5 wt.%, from about 0.4 to about 4 wt.%, from about 0.4 to about 3 wt.%, or from about 0.4 to about 2 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(B) (ii) a nonionic emulsifier having an HLB of 9 to 12

Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 12 include:

(1) Polyglycerin fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylene alkyl glycerides and polyoxyalkylene fatty ethers, preferably polyglycerin fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylene alkyl glycerides and polyoxyalkylene fatty ethers which are solid at 25 ℃;

(2) Fatty acids or fatty alcohols, mixed esters of carboxylic acids and glycerol;

(3) Fatty acid esters of sugars and fatty alcohol ethers of sugars; and

(4) Fatty esters of sorbitan and oxyalkylenated fatty esters of sorbitan.

In various embodiments, the nonionic emulsifier having an HLB of about 9 to about 12 may be selected from: at least one, preferably one polyglycerin fatty acid ester comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain C ₈-C₂₂ hydrocarbon group such as C ₈-C₂₂ alkyl or alkenyl, preferably C ₈-C₁₈ alkyl or alkenyl, more preferably C ₈-C₁₂ alkyl or alkenyl, with 2 to 12 glycerins, preferably 2 to 10 glycerins and more preferably 2 to 8 glycerins; polyethylene glycol derivatives of polyoxyethylated alkyl glycerides, such as mixed mono-, di-and triglycerides of caprylic and capric acid (preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, more preferably 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, even more preferably 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units); at least one, preferably one, polyoxyethylated fatty ether comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched, C ₈-C₂₂ hydrocarbon group, such as C ₈-C₂₂ alkyl or alkenyl, preferably C ₈-C₁₈ alkyl or alkenyl, more preferably C ₈-C₁₂ alkyl or alkenyl, with 2 to 60 ethylene oxide, preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxide, more preferably 2 to 10 ethylene oxide; and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, it is preferred that the polyglycerin fatty acid ester has a polyglycerin moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerins, more preferably 2 to 8 glycerins, still more preferably 4 to 6 glycerins. The polyglycerin fatty acid ester may be selected from monoesters, diesters and triesters of saturated or unsaturated acids, preferably saturated acids, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and myristic acid, containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms.

The polyoxyalkylenated fatty ether, preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty ether, may comprise from 2 to 60 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. The fatty chain of the ether may be chosen in particular from lauryl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl and cetyl units and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl. Examples of ethoxylated fatty ethers which may be mentioned are laurel ethers comprising 2, 3,4, 5 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: laureth-2, laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-5).

The fatty acid or fatty alcohol, the mixed ester of carboxylic acid and glycerol, which may be used as the above nonionic surfactant, may be chosen in particular from fatty acids or fatty alcohols having an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 12 carbon atoms, and mixed esters of alpha-hydroxy acids and/or succinic acid and glycerol. The alpha-hydroxy acid may be, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid or malic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The alkyl chain of the fatty acid or alcohol from which the mixed esters may be derived may be straight or branched and is preferably saturated. They may be, inter alia, stearates, isostearates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates, isostearyl, stearyl, behenyl, myristyl or lauryl chains, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of mixed esters include mixed esters of glycerol with citric acid, lactic acid, linoleic acid and oleic acid (CTFA name: glycerol citrate/lactate/linoleate/oleate); mixed esters of succinic acid and isostearyl alcohol with glycerol (CTFA name: isostearyl alcohol dimer glycerol succinate); mixed esters of citric acid and stearic acid with glycerol (CTFA name: glycerol stearate citrate); mixed esters of lactic acid and stearic acid with glycerol (CTFA name: glycerol stearate lactate), and mixtures thereof.

The fatty acid esters of sugars may be chosen in particular from the esters or esters of C ₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acids with sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, and the esters or esters of C ₁₄-C₂₂ fatty acids with methyl glucose.

The C ₁₂-C₂₂ or C ₁₄-C₂₂ fatty acids forming the fatty units of esters that can be used comprise saturated or unsaturated, straight alkyl or alkenyl chains containing 12 to 22 or 14 to 22 carbon atoms, respectively. The fatty units of the esters may be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates and caprates, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, stearates are used.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition preferably comprises at least one ester of a C ₁₄-C₂₂ fatty acid with methyl glucose, such as polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate.

As non-limiting examples of the mixing of fatty acids with sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose esters or esters of fructose, sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate and sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof may be mentioned; and an example of a fatty acid mixed with methyl glucose esters or esters is polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate. Mention may also be made of glucose or maltose monoesters, such as methyl o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-glucoside and o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-maltoside.

Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohol ethers of useful sugars are solids at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ℃, and in some embodiments less than or equal to 25 ℃, and may be selected from the group consisting of, inter alia, the mixing of a C ₈-C₂₂ fatty alcohol with an ether or ether of glucose, maltose, sucrose, or fructose, and the mixing of a C ₁₄-C₂₂ fatty alcohol with an ether or ether of methyl glucose. These are in particular alkyl polyglucosides, which are preferred in various embodiments. A particularly preferred example is C12-20 alkyl glucoside. Thus, in one embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one alkyl polyglucoside, such as a C12-20 alkyl glucoside.

The C ₁₂-C₂₂ or C ₁₄-C₂₂ fatty alcohols forming the fatty units of the ethers that can be used comprise saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain alkyl or alkenyl chains containing from 12 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, respectively. The fatty units of the ether may be chosen in particular from decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl and cetyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl.

As non-limiting examples of fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, mention may be made of alkyl polyglucosides, such as lauryl glucoside, cetostearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate or sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof, polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate and alkyl polyglucosides.

The fatty esters of sorbitan and the oxyalkylenated fatty esters of sorbitan may be selected in various embodiments from the group consisting of C ₁₆-C₂₂ fatty esters of sorbitan and oxyethylenated C ₁₆-C₂₂ fatty esters of sorbitan. They may be formed from at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated straight alkyl chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms respectively and from sorbitol or from ethoxylated sorbitol. The oxyethylenated esters may generally comprise from 1 to 100 ethylene glycol units and preferably from 2 to 40 Ethylene Oxide (EO) units. These esters may be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates and mixtures thereof. Preference is given to using stearates and palmitates. Non-limiting examples include sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), sorbitan tristearate 20EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65), and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of 9 to 12 may be selected from the group consisting of alkyl polyglucosides (e.g., C12-20 alkyl glucosides), polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-2 dimerized hydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-2 polyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

The total amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of 9 to 12 will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of 9 to 12 is about 0.1 to about 5wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of 9 to 12 is about 0.1 to about 4 wt%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, about 0.1 to about 2 wt%, about 0.2 to about 5wt%, about 0.2 to about 4 wt%, about 0.2 to about 3 wt%, or about 0.2 to about 2 wt%, about 0.3 to about 5wt%, about 0.3 to about 4 wt%, about 0.3 to about 3 wt%, or about 0.3 to about 2 wt%, about 0.5 to about 5wt%, about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, or about 0.5 to about 2 wt%, about 1 to about 5wt%, about 1 to about 4 wt%, about 1 to about 3 wt%, about 1 to about 2 wt%, or about 1 to about 2 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(B) (iii) glycerol fatty esters

Glycerides are also known as "glycerol fatty esters". Non-limiting examples include: glyceryl myristate, glyceryl capromyristate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl ricinoleate, glyceryl dilaurate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl mono/dimyristate, glyceryl stearate palmitate, caprylic/capric diglycidylester (caprylic/capricdiglycerylsuccinate), caprylic/capric/stearic triglyceride, glyceryl trilaurate/stearate, glyceryl di/tripalmitostearate, glyceryl di/tristearate, caprylic/capric/lauric triglyceride, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tristearate, glyceryl tri-12-hydroxystearate, glyceryl triacetyl ricinoleate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tribhenate, and mixtures thereof.

In various embodiments, the one or more glycerides may include monoglycerides, such as C16-C22 monoglycerides. Saturated and branched fatty acids are preferred, such as glycerol monostearate, glycerol monoisostearate, glycerol monopalmitate, glycerol monobehenate, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the glyceryl ester may be selected from the group consisting of glyceryl monostearate (glyceryl stearate), glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the glyceride is glycerol oleate. Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers that are glycerides include glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or mixtures thereof. Preferred glycerides include glycerol stearate, glycerol ricinoleate, or mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the one or more glycerides are selected from the group consisting of glyceryl myristate, glyceryl capromyristate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl ricinoleate, glyceryl dilaurate, glyceryl distearate, and mixtures thereof.

The total amount of the one or more glycerides (if present) will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more glycerides (when present) is from about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of the one or more glycerides is from about 0.1 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 2 wt%, from about 0.2 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.2 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.2 to about 3 wt%, or from about 0.2 to about 2 wt%, from about 0.3 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.3 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.3 to about 3 wt%, or from about 0.3 to about 2 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(B) (iv) additional nonionic emulsifier

Nonionic emulsifiers other than ethoxylated fatty acids (b) (i), nonionic emulsifiers (b) (ii) having an HLB of about 9 to about 12, and nonionic emulsifiers other than glycerol fatty esters (b) (iii) are classified as "additional nonionic emulsifiers". The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may optionally comprise one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers.

In one embodiment, the one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers include one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of greater than or equal to about 14. Non-limiting examples include polysorbate 60 (hlb=14.9), polysorbate 80 (hlb=15), isosteareth-20 (hlb=15), PEG-60 almond glyceride (hlb=15), polysorbate 80 (hlb=15), PEG-20 methyl glucal sesquistearate (hlb=15), cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20 (hlb=15.2), oleyl alcohol polyether-20 (hlb=15.3), stearyl alcohol polyether-21 (hlb=15.5), cetyl alcohol polyether-20 (hlb=15.7), isocetyl alcohol polyether-20 (hlb=15.7), polysorbate 20 (hlb=16.7), laureth-23 (hlb=16.9), PEG-100 stearate (hlb=18.8), stearyl alcohol polyether-100 (hlb=18.8), PEG-80 sorbitan laurate (hlb=19.1), and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers include one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 1 to about 5. Non-limiting examples include sorbitan trioleate (hlb=1.8), sorbitan sesquioleate (hlb=3.7), lecithin (hlb=4), sorbitan oleate (hlb=4.3), sorbitan monostearate (hlb=4.7), sorbitan stearate (hlb=4.7), sorbitan isostearate (hlb=4.7), steareth-2 (hlb=4.9), oleeth-2 (hlb=4.9), and mixtures thereof.

The total amount of the one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers, if present, will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers (when present) is from about 0.01 to about 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of the one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers is an amount of about 0.01 to about 4 wt%, about 0.01 to about 3 wt%, about 0.01 to about 2 wt%, about 0.01 to about 1 wt%, about 0.01 to about 0.5 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, about 0.1 to about 4 wt%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, about 0.1 to about 2 wt%, about 0.1 to about 1 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(C) Fatty alcohols

The term "fatty alcohol" refers to an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH) and comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxyalkylenated (in particular neither oxyethylenated nor oxypropylated) nor glycerylated. The fatty alcohol may be represented by: R-OH, wherein R represents a linear or branched saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl) group comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The fatty alcohol(s) may be liquid or solid. In some cases, it is preferred that the cosmetic composition comprises at least one solid fatty alcohol. Solid fatty alcohols that can be used include those that are solid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure (25 ℃,780 mmHg) and insoluble in water, that is, they have a water solubility of less than 1wt%, preferably less than 0.5wt%, at 25 ℃,1 atm.

The solid fatty alcohol can be represented by: R-OH, wherein R represents a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

Non-limiting examples of useful fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol or dodecanol (1-dodecanol); myristyl alcohol or tetradecyl alcohol (1-tetradecyl alcohol); cetyl alcohol (1-cetyl alcohol); stearyl alcohol (1-stearyl alcohol); arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (1-behenyl alcohol); wood wax alcohol (1-tetracosanol); wax alcohol (1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (1-octacosanol); melissa alcohol (1-triacontanol) and its mixture.

In certain embodiments, the one or more fatty alcohols have 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Specific non-limiting examples include C14-22 alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

The fatty alcohol(s) may be liquid or solid. In certain embodiments, however, it is preferred that the cosmetic composition comprises at least one solid fatty alcohol, in particular a saturated fatty alcohol that is solid at 25 ℃, preferably having at least 12 carbon atoms. Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more solid fatty alcohols, for example selected from the group consisting of C14-22 alcohols, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, preferably cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

In some cases, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more fatty alcohols selected from the group consisting of C14-22 alcohols, dodecanol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, melissa alcohol, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the cosmetic composition preferably comprises cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and cetostearyl alcohol.

The total amount of one or more fatty alcohols in the cosmetic composition will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more fatty alcohols is from 0.1 wt% to about 8 wt% based on the total weight of the composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of the one or more fatty alcohols in the composition is from about 0.1 to about 6 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 8 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 6 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, from about 1 to about 8 wt%, from about 1 to about 6 wt%, from about 1 to about 5 wt%, from about 1 to about 4 wt%, or from about 1 to about 3 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

(D) Fatty compounds

The term "fatty compound" is interchangeable with "fatty material". Fatty compounds are known as water-insoluble (or only slightly water-soluble) compounds; they are hydrophilic and are usually dissolved in organic solvents. They include materials such as oils, fats, waxes, hydrocarbons, fatty esters, and the like. For the purposes of this disclosure, "fatty compounds" excludes fatty acids, which are mentioned above alone. For the purposes of this disclosure, "silicone oil" is considered a fatty compound. Non-limiting examples of useful fatty compounds include oils, waxes, alkanes (paraffins), fatty acids, fatty esters, triglyceride compounds, lanolin, hydrocarbons, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof. Fatty compounds are described, for example, by International Federation Societies of Cosmetic Chemists in Cosmetic RAW MATERIAL ANALYSIS AND Quality, volume I Hydrocarbons, glycoides, waxes and Other Esters (Redwood Books, 1994), which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds include oils, mineral oils, alkanes (paraffins), fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, esters of fatty alcohols, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, waxes, triglyceride compounds, lanolin, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

Fatty acid

In some cases, the fatty compound includes a fatty acid, a fatty acid derivative, an ester of a fatty acid, and a hydroxy-substituted fatty acid. The fatty acid may be a linear or branched acid and/or may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include diacids, triacids, and other polyacids, and salts of these fatty acids. For example, the fatty acid may optionally include or be selected from lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arachidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the fatty acid is selected from the group consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Wax

In some cases, the fatty compound may include or be selected from one or more waxes. Non-limiting examples of waxes in this category include, for example, synthetic wax, ceresin (ceresin), paraffin (Paraffin), ozokerite (ozokerite), polyethylene wax, illipe button, beeswax, carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax, lanolin derivatives, candelilla wax, cocoa butter, shellac wax, whale oil (spermaceti), rice bran wax, capok wax, sugarcane wax, montan wax, spermaceti (whale wax), bayberry wax, vitex negundo (acacia decurrents flower wax), vegetable wax (such as sunflower seed (helianthus annuus) wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax or japan wax or cork fiber wax or sugarcane wax), or mixtures thereof.

Non-silicone oils

In some cases, the fatty compound may include or be selected from one or more oils. Suitable oils include, but are not limited to, natural oils, such as coconut oil; hydrocarbons such as mineral oil and hydrogenated polyisobutene; fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol; esters, such as C ₁₂-C₁₅ alkyl benzoate; diesters, such as propylene glycol dipelargonate; and triesters such as tricaprylin. Non-limiting examples of oils that may optionally be included in the cosmetic composition include isotridecyl isononanoate, PEG-4 diheptanoate, isostearyl pivalate, tridecyl pivalate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl ricinoleate, cetyl stearate, cetyl myristate, coco-dicaprylate/decanoate, decyl isostearate, isodecyl oleate, isodecyl pivalate, isohexyl pivalate, octyl palmitate, dioctyl malate, tridecyl octanoate, myristyl myristate, octyldodecanol (octododecanol), or a combination of the following: octyl dodecanol, acetylated lanolin alcohol, cetyl acetate, isododecanol, polyglycerol-3-diisostearate, castor oil, lanolin and lanolin derivatives, triisocetyl citrate, sorbitan sesquioleate, C ₁₀-C₁₈ triglycerides, caprylic/capric/triglyceride, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, triacetyl hydroxystearate, triacetyl ricinoleate, trioctanoate, hydrogenated castor oil, linseed oil, mink oil, olive oil, palm oil, fog ice grass, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, tallow, triglycercaprate, trihydroxystearin, triisostearin, trilaurin, trimyristin, tripalmitin, tristearin, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, cholesterol, or combinations thereof.

Silicone oil

Non-limiting examples of silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxane, dimethiconol, cyclodimethicone, polysiloxane-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilyl amino terminal dimethicone, and stearoxytrimethylsilane. In a preferred embodiment, the one or more silicone oils are nonvolatile silicone oils. Useful silicone oils include Polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl or alkoxy groups as side groups and/or at the end of the silicone chain, each of which groups contains 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenylsilicones such as phenyltrimethicone, phenylpolydimethylsiloxane, phenyl (trimethylsiloxy) diphenylsiloxane, diphenylpolydimethylsiloxane, diphenyl (methyldiphenyl) trisiloxane or (2-phenylethyl) trimethylsiloxysilicate. Further examples of silicone oils which may be mentioned include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, such as those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8X 10 ⁶m²/s) and/or containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms. These silicones optionally comprise alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyl octyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, and dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, or mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more silicone oils selected from the group consisting of dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclodimethicone, polysiloxane-11, phenyl trimethicone, and amino terminal dimethicone, preferably dimethicone.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more amino-functional silicones. Non-limiting examples include amino-terminal polydimethylsiloxane, bis-hydroxy/methoxy amino-terminal polydimethylsiloxane, bis-cetylstearyl amino-terminal polydimethylsiloxane, bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG amino-terminal polydimethylsiloxane, aminopropylphenyl polydimethylsiloxane, aminopropyl polydimethylsiloxane, bis-amino PEG/PPG-41/3 aminoethyl PG-propyl polydimethylsiloxane, octyl polymethylsiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxanes are particularly useful amino-functional silicones.

In a preferred embodiment, the one or more silicone oils are selected from the group consisting of dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclodimethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cycloheptasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclotrisiloxane, octyldimethicone, octyltrimethicone, octylpolymethylsiloxane, cetostearyl-dimethicone, cetyl-dimethicone, hexyl-dimethicone, lauryl-dimethicone, myristyl-dimethicone, phenyl-dimethicone, stearyl-dimethicone, behenyl-dimethicone, trifluoropropyl-dimethicone, cetyl-dimethicone, polyphenyl-dimethicone, methylphenyl-polysiloxane, methyl-trimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl-trimethicone, and phenyl-trimethicone, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the one or more silicone oils comprise polydimethylsiloxane and optionally one or more other silicone oils.

In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may comprise one or more fatty compounds selected from fatty esters (e.g., isononyl isononanoate), polyolefins (e.g., petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydro squalene, vegetable oil and/or rape oil, hydrocarbon-based oils (e.g., isohexadecane), silicone oils (e.g., polydimethylsiloxane), or mixtures thereof.

The amount of one or more fatty compounds in the cosmetic composition will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more fatty compounds is from about 1wt% to about 20wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the amount of one or more fatty compounds in the cosmetic composition is from about 1 to 18 wt.%, from about 1 to about 15 wt.%, from about 5 to about 20 wt.%, from about 5 to about 15 wt.%, from about 6 to about 20 wt.%, from about 6 to about 18 wt.%, from about 6 to about 15 wt.%, from about 8 to about 20 wt.%, from about 8 to about 18 wt.%, or from about 8 to about 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(E) Thickening polymers

Non-limiting examples of thickening polymers include taurate copolymers, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polyethyl acrylates, polyacrylamides, polyacrylic acid C10-30 alkyl ester, acrylic acid/acryloylazo (acrylonitrogens) copolymers, acrylic acid (ester) class (acrylates)/stearyl alcohol polyether-20 itaconate copolymers, acrylic acid (ester) class/cetyl alcohol polyether-20 itaconate copolymers, acrylic acid (ester) class/amino acrylates/C10-30 alkyl PEG-20 itaconate copolymers, acrylic acid (ester) class/amino acrylates copolymers, acrylic acid (ester) class/stearyl alcohol polyether-20 methacrylate copolymers, acrylic acid (ester) class/behenyl alcohol polyether-25 methacrylate copolymers, acrylic acid (ester) class/stearyl alcohol polyether-20 methacrylate cross-linked polymers, acrylic acid (ester) class/behenyl alcohol polyether-25 methacrylate/HEMA cross-linked polymers, acrylic acid (ester) class/vinyl neodecanoate cross-linked polymers, acrylic acid (ester) class/isopropyl alcohol cross-linked polymers, acrylic acid (palm acid) class/acrylic acid/vinyl alcohol ester cross-linked polymers, acrylic acid (acrylic acid/acrylic acid ester) ester-25 methacrylate cross-linked polymers, acrylic acid (acrylic acid ester) acrylic acid/acrylic acid ester-30 alkyl ester cross-linked polymers, acrylic acid (acrylic acid ester) acrylic acid/acrylic acid ester-30 ester cross-linked polymers, acrylic acid ester/acrylic acid ester copolymers, acrylic acid (acrylic acid-10-acrylic acid ester cross-modified acrylic acid ester copolymers; hydrophobically modified polyacrylic acid, hydrophobically modified polyacrylamides; hydrophobically modified polyethers (wherein these materials may have hydrophobes which may be selected from cetyl, stearyl, oleyl (oleayl) and combinations thereof), acrylamide/ammonium acrylate copolymers, acrylic acid (ester) based crosslinked polymer-4, acrylic acid (ester) based crosslinked polymer-3, acrylic acid (ester) based/behenyl polyether-25 methacrylate copolymers, acrylic acid (ester) based/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymers, acrylic acid (ester) based/stearyl polyether-20 itaconate copolymers, ammonium polyacrylate/isohexadecane/PEG-40 castor oil; carbomer sodium, crosslinked polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth-7, polyacrylate 13/polyisobutylene/polysorbate 20, polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6, polyamide-3, polyquaternium-37, sodium polyacrylate, and mixtures thereof.

Nonionic thickening polymers which may be mentioned are in particular:

(1) Cellulose modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain; examples that may be mentioned include: hydroxyethyl cellulose modified with a group containing at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, wherein alkyl is preferably C8-C22, such as product NATROSOL PLUS GRADE to CS (C ₁₆ alkyl) sold by Aqualon, inc., or product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by Berol Nobel, inc.; and hydroxyethylcellulose modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenyl ether) sold by Amerchol company,

(2) Hydroxypropyl guar modified with a group comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the product ESAFLOR HM (C ₂₂ alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti, and the products RE210-18 (C ₁₄ alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C ₂₀ alkyl chain) sold by the company Rhone-Poulenc,

(3) Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and aliphatic chain hydrophobic monomers; examples that may be mentioned include: product ANTARON V or GANEX V216 (vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer) sold by the company I.S.P., product ANTARON V or GANEX V220 (vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer) sold by the company I.S.P.,

(4) Copolymers of C ₁-C₆ -alkyl methacrylates or C ₁-C₆ -alkyl acrylates and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for example oxyethylenated methyl acrylate/octadecyl acrylate copolymers sold under the name ANTIL by Goldschmidt,

(5) Copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hydrophobic monomers containing at least one fatty chain, for example polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymers,

(6) Polyurethane polyethers comprising hydrophilic and hydrophobic blocks (which may be separate aliphatic and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic segments) in their chains which typically have polyoxyethylated properties.

In a preferred embodiment, at least one of the one or more thickening polymers in the cosmetic composition is a taurate copolymer.

Non-limiting examples of taurine salt copolymers include acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

The taurine salt copolymer may be hydrophilic and may contain an acrylate component. The at least one taurate copolymer may include, for example, an acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and/or a sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer. In some cases, the at least one taurate copolymer may be obtained from ethylenically unsaturated sulfo-functional monomers and ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers, such as crosslinked anionic copolymers obtained from acrylamide or methacrylamide and 2-acrylamido-2-methyl-propanesulfonic acid.

In some cases, the one or more taurate copolymers may be selected from the group consisting of acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, and mixtures thereof. Furthermore, in some cases, the cosmetic composition may comprise hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, and optionally further comprise a C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate.

The amount of the one or more thickening polymers will depend on the type of thickening polymer used; and varies depending on the desired viscosity of the cosmetic composition. Thus, in one embodiment, the total amount of the one or more thickeners is sufficient to achieve the viscosities described throughout this disclosure. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more thickeners is from about 0.1 to about 8 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the one or more thickeners are present in a total amount of about 0.1 to about 6 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, about 0.1 to about 4 wt%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt%, about 0.5 to about 6 wt%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 6 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, about 1 to about 4 wt%, about 1 to about 3 wt%, or about 1 to about 2 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(F) Water and its preparation method

The amount of water in the cosmetic composition may and will vary depending on the amount of other components in the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the total amount of water in the cosmetic composition is from about 55 to about 85 weight percent, based on the total weight of the composition. In further embodiments, the amount of water in the cosmetic composition is from about 55 to about 80 wt%, from about 55 to about 75 wt%, from about 60 to about 85 wt%, from about 60 to about 80 wt%, from about 60 to about 75 wt%, from about 65 to about 85 wt%, from about 65 to about 80 wt%, from about 65 to about 75 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(G) Water-soluble solvent

In various embodiments, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure optionally comprise one or more water-soluble solvents. The term "water-miscible solvent" is interchangeable with the term "water-miscible solvent" and refers to a compound that is liquid at 25 ℃ and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and that has a solubility in water of at least 50% under these conditions. In one embodiment, the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90%. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include glycerin, monohydric alcohols, polyhydric alcohols (polyhydroxy alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the one or more water-soluble solvents may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, t-butanol, and mixtures thereof.

As non-limiting examples of organic solvents, mention may be made of monohydric and polyhydric alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, 4-tert-butylcyclohexyl alcohol and phenethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers, such as the monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, or ethers thereof, such as the monomethyl, butylene, hexylene, dipropylene glycol, and the alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example the monoethyl or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol. Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol (propylene glycol), butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol (propylene glycol) and glycerol. The organic solvent may be a volatile or non-volatile compound.

Other non-limiting examples of the water-soluble solvent include alkylene glycols (polyhydric alcohols) such as glycerin, 1,2, 6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1, 4-diol, 2-ethyl-1, 3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol, (octanediol), 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1, 2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, diethylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-1-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, and dipropylene glycol monoisopropyl ether; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1, 3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbitol, sorbitan, acetin, diacetin, triacetin, sulfolane, and mixtures thereof.

Polyhydroxy alcohols are also useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerol, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1, 3-butanediol, 2, 3-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1, 3-butanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2, 4-butanetriol, 1,2, 6-hexanetriol, and mixtures thereof. Polyol compounds may also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol, 3-dimethyl-1, 2-butanediol, 2-diethyl-1, 3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1, 3-propanediol, 2, 4-dimethyl-2, 4-pentanediol, 2, 5-dimethyl-2, 5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1, 2-diol, and 2-ethyl-1, 3-hexanediol, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more glycols and/or one or more alcohols, for example one or more water-soluble solvents selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, t-butanol, and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents, if present, will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents (if present) in the cosmetic composition is from about 1 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents in the cosmetic composition is from about 1 to 18 wt%, from about 1 to about 15 wt%, from about 5 to about 20 wt%, from about 5 to about 15 wt%, from about 6 to about 20 wt%, from about 6 to about 18 wt%, from about 6 to about 15 wt%, from about 8 to about 20 wt%, from about 8 to about 18 wt%, or from about 8 to about 15 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(H) Miscellaneous ingredients

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may optionally comprise one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Miscellaneous ingredients are ingredients that are compatible with the cosmetic composition and do not destroy or materially affect the basic and novel properties of the cosmetic composition. Miscellaneous ingredients commonly used in cosmetics are known in the art. Non-limiting examples include miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants, preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, plant extracts, UV filters, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescers, fillers, colorants, matte agents, other skin-active agents, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkle agents, and the like, in addition to the nonionic emulsifiers of the various nonionic emulsifiers of (b). In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure comprises one or more skin active agents, in particular madecassoside. Non-limiting examples of various miscellaneous ingredients that may optionally be included in or excluded from the cosmetic compositions are provided below.

Miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants

Miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants may optionally be included in the cosmetic composition. Miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants are those other than the various nonionic emulsifiers of (b). The miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants may be anionic, cationic and/or amphoteric/zwitterionic.

Antioxidant agent

Examples of antioxidants include tocopherols (e.g., d-alpha-tocopherol, d-beta-tocopherol, d-gamma-tocopherol, d-delta-tocopherol), tocotrienols (e.g., d-alpha-tocotrienol, d-beta-tocotrienol, d-gamma-tocotrienol, d-delta-tocotrienol), and vitamin E (alpha-tocopheryl acetate). These compounds may be isolated from natural sources, prepared by synthetic means, or mixtures thereof. Vitamin E preparations enriched in tocotrienols can be obtained by fractionating vitamin E preparations to remove a portion of the tocopherols and recovering a more highly concentrated tocotrienol product. Useful tocotrienols are natural products isolated from wheat germ oil, cereal or palm oil, for example using high performance liquid chromatography, or isolated from barley, distillers grains or oats by alcohol extraction and/or molecular distillation. The term "tocotrienol" as used herein includes tocotrienol-rich fractions obtained from these natural products as well as pure compounds. The increased glutathione peroxidase activity protects the skin from oxidative damage.

Vitamin C and derivatives may be used including ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate and the fat-soluble esters tetrahexyldecanol ascorbate and ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl glucosamine, ascorbyl acetate, and the like. In addition, plants containing high amounts of vitamin C, such as extracts of carbomer (MYRCIARIA DUBIA), golden tiger tail (acerola), phyllanthus emblica (emblica officinalis), and bioflavonoids from rose hips and citrus fruits, including water-soluble bioflavonoids such as hesperidin methyl chalcone, may also be used.

Sesame (Sesamumindicum) or sesamol (lignan) may also be added. Sesame and its lignans (sesame-related fibrous compounds) act as antioxidants. The sesamol significantly enhances vitamin E activity.

In addition, carotenoids, especially of the lutein type, are also useful antioxidants that can be used. Lutein-type carotenoids include molecules such as lutein, canthaxanthin (canthaxantin), cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin, and astaxanthin. Lutein protects compounds such as vitamin a, vitamin E and other carotenoids.

Flavonoids may also be used as antioxidants. In some cases, the flavonoid is flavanone (flavanone) (a derivative of 2, 3-dihydro-2-phenylbenzopyran-4-one). The flavonoid (Flavones) comprises: butin, eriodictyol, hesperetin, hesperidin, homoeriodictyol, isocherokee, naringenin, naringin, pinocembrin, poncirin, cherokee rose element, cherokee rose yellow and Sterubin. The flavonoid may be a flavanonol (flavanonol) (a derivative of 3-hydroxy-2, 3-dihydro-2-phenylbenzopyran-4-one). The flavanol (Flavanols) includes: huperzine, aromadedrin, chrysandroside A, chrysandroside B, xeractinol, astilbin and fogliptin (Fustin). The flavonoid may be a flavonoid (derivative of 2-phenylbenzopyran-4-one). Flavonoid compounds include: apigenin, luteolin, naringenin, chrysin (Chrysin), baicalein, scutellarin, wogonin, and synthetic flavonoids: diosmin (Diosmin) and flavones of methylphenidate (Flavoxate). The flavonoid may be flavonol (flavonol) (a derivative of 3-hydroxy-2-phenylbenzopyran-4-one). Flavonols include: 3-hydroxyflavone, azalea, fisetin, homohaxanthin, gossypin, kaempferide, kaempferol, isorhamnetin, morin, myricetin, naringin, agastache flavonol, quercetin, methylrhamnetin, rhamnetin, azalea glycoside (Azalein), hyperin, isoquercetin, kaempferide, myricetin, quercitrin, locust bean glycoside, rutin, spiran, murine Li Sudai, phellodendrin, icariin, and troxerutin. The flavonoid may be flavan-3-ol (a derivative of 2-phenyl-3, 4-dihydro-2H-benzopyran-3-ol). Flavan-3-ols include: catechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin, epicatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate, epicatechin (Epiafzelechin), feissuerol (Fisetinidol), guibourtinidol, mesquitol, and locust bean alcohol (Robinetinidol). The flavonoid may be flavan-4-ol (a derivative of 2-phenylchroman-4-ol). Flavan-4-ols include: apiforol and Luteoforol. The flavonoid may be isoflavone (derivative of 3-phenylbenzopyran-4-one). The isoflavones include: genistein, daidzein, biochanin a, formononetin and equol metabolites from daidzein (equol metabolites).

The antioxidant may be a derivative of the anthocyanin (2-phenylbenzopyrylium (2-phenylchromenylium) cation. The anthocyanin comprises: aurantinidin, cyanidin, delphinidin, europinidin, luteolin Huang Ding (Luteolinidin), pelargonidin (Pelargonidin), malvidin (Malvidin), paeoniflorin (Peonidin), morning glory pigment (Petunidin), rose pigment (Rosinidin) and xanthone.

The antioxidant may be dihydrochalcone (a derivative of 1, 3-diphenyl-1-propanone). Dihydrochalcones include: phloretin, dihydrochalcone phloretin, phlorizin, aspartame (ASPALATHIN), naringin dihydrochalcone, neohesperidin dihydrochalcone, and Nothofagin. The mode of action of the invention is not limited, but dihydrochalcones may exert an antioxidant effect by reducing reactive free radicals, such as reactive oxygen and reactive nitrogen species.

The antioxidant may be anthocyanin. Anthocyanin and its derivatives are antioxidants. Anthocyanins comprise a class of flavonoid compounds that impart red, purple and blue colors to many fruits, vegetables, grains and flowers, which are naturally occurring water-soluble compounds. Furthermore, anthocyanins are collagenase inhibitors. Inhibition of collagenase helps to prevent and reduce wrinkles caused by reduction of skin collagen, increase skin elasticity, etc. The anthocyanin can be obtained from any part of a variety of plant sources, if, flowers, stems, leaves, roots, bark or seeds. Those skilled in the art will recognize that certain parts of the plant may contain higher natural levels of anthocyanins, and thus use these parts to obtain the desired anthocyanins. In some cases, the antioxidant may include one or more beta anthocyanins. Beta anthocyanin, like anthocyanin, can be obtained from natural sources and is an antioxidant.

The antioxidant may be phenylpropanoids (derivatives of cinnamic acid). Phenylpropanoids include: cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, trans-ferulic acid (including its antioxidant pharmacore, 2-dihydroxyacetophenone), 5-hydroxyferulic acid, sinapic acid (SINAPIC ACID), coumarol, coniferyl alcohol, sinapiol, eugenol (Chavicol), safrole, P-coumaric acid, and sinapic acid (SINAPINIC ACID). Without limiting the mode of action of the invention, phenylpropanoids may neutralize free radicals.

The antioxidant may be chalcone (a derivative of 1, 3-diphenyl-2-propen-1-one). Chalcones include: butein, okanin, carthamin, martin (Marein), clomazone (Sophoradin), xanthone (Xanthohumol), flavokvain A, flavokavain B, flavokavin C, and synthetic Safalcone.

The antioxidant may be a curcuminoid. Curcuminoids include: curcumin, demethoxycurcumin, bisdemethoxycurcumin, tetrahydrocurcumin (Tetrahydrocurcumin) and tetrahydrocurcuminoids (Tetrahydrocurcuminoids). Curcumin and tetrahydrocurcuminoids can be derived from the rhizome of turmeric. Tetrahydrocurcumin, a metabolite of curcumin, has been found to be a more potent antioxidant and more stable than curcumin.

The antioxidant may be tannin. Tannins include: tannins, TERFLAVIN B, glucopyranose gallate (Glucogallin), DGALLIC ACID and white quercetin (Quercitannic acid).

The antioxidant may be stilbene (stilbenoid). Stilbenes include: resveratrol, pterostilbene and white-skin-shirt alcohol. Resveratrol may include, but is not limited to, 3,5,4 '-trihydroxy stilbene, 3,4,3',5 '-tetrahydroxy stilbene (piceatannol), 2,3',4,5 '-tetrahydroxy stilbene (oxidized resveratrol), 4' -dihydroxystilbene and alpha and beta glucosides, galactosides and mannoside derivatives thereof.

The antioxidant may be coumarin (a derivative of 2H-benzopyran-2-one). Coumarin includes: 4-hydroxycoumarin, umbelliferone, esculentone, 7-methoxycoumarin (HERNIARIN), auraptene (Auraptene) and biscoumarin.

The antioxidant may be a carotenoid. Carotenoids include: beta-carotene, alpha-carotene, gamma-carotene, beta-cryptoxanthin, lycopene, lutein, and idebenone. Sesame (Sesamumindicum) or sesamol may also be added. Sesame and its lignans (fibrous compounds associated with sesame) act as antioxidants. The sesamol significantly enhances vitamin E activity.

The oxidizing agent may be: xanthone, butylated hydroxytoluene, 2, 6-di-tert-butylphenol, 2, 4-dimethyl-6-tert-butylphenol, gallic acid, eugenol, uric acid, alpha-lipoic acid, ellagic acid, chicoric acid, chlorogenic acid, rosmarinic acid, salicylic acid, acetylcysteine, S-allylcysteine, pyranisoflavone (Barbigerone), myrobalan tannic acid (Chebulagic acid), edaravone (Edaravone), ethoxyquin, glutathione, hydroxytyrosol, idebenone, melatonin, N-acetylserotonin, nordihydroguaiac acid, oleocanthal, oleuropein, paradol, piceatannol, probucol, propyl gallate, protocatechuic acid, pyritinol, rutin, secoisolariciresinol (Secoisolariciresinol diglucoside), sesamin, sesamol, silymarin (Silibinin), cilimalin (SILYMARIN), flavin, tea-bis-glucoside, thmoquinone, trolox, gallic acid, methionine and antioxidants such as fatty or thiooctanoic acid.

Skin active agent

Non-limiting examples of skin active agents include hydroxyasiaticoside, retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (pyridoxine) or chloride, selenium, salicornia; cinnamon extract mixture, TEA and caprylylglycine, such as 15Sepicontrol A5 TEA from Seppic, especially the mixture of cinnamon, sarcosine and caprylylglycine sold under the trade name Sepicontrol A by Seppic; zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pyrithione), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, and zinc cysteine; Derivatives, in particular copper and copper picolinate, such as Cuivridone Solabia; Extracts from the following plants: arnica (Arnica montana), cinchona (Cinchona succirubra), flos Caryophylli (Eugenia caryophyllata), flos Lupuli (Humulus lupulus), herba Hyperici perforati (Hypericum perforatum), mentha piperita (MENTHA PIPENTA), herba Rosmarini officinalis (Rosmarinus officinalis), herba Salvia officinalis (Salvia officinalis) and herba Thymus vulgaris (Thymus vulgaris), are all sold, for example, by Maruzen; An extract of spiraea (Spiraea ulmaria), such as sold by Silab under the name Sebonormine; algae kelp (LAMINARIA SACCHARINA) extract, such as sold by Biotechmarine under the name Phlorogine; root extract of sanguisorba officinalis mixture (sanguisorba officinalis/sanguisorba longifolia (Sanguisorba officinalis/Poterium officinale)), rhizome of ginger (Zingiber officinalis) and cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as sold by solasia under the name Sebustop; Linseed extract, such as sold under the name Linumine by Lucas Meyer; phellodendron bark extract, such as Phelloodendron extract BG by Maruzen or Oubaku liquid B by Ichimaru Pharcos; a mixture of saw palmetto (saw palmetto) extract and sesame seed extract, such as sold under the name Regu SEB by pentagear; a mixture of willow herb extract, myrobalan extract, saussurea involucrata extract and bio-available zinc (microalgae) extract, as sold under the name Seborilys GREEN TECH; an extract of pygeum africanum (Pygeum afrianum), such as sold by Euromed under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract; extracts of saw palmetto (Serenoa serrulata) such as those sold under the name Viapure Sabal by Actives International and those sold by Euromed company; extracts of plantain blend, berberis thunbergii (Berberis aquifolium) and sodium salicylate, as sold under the name Seboclear Rahn; Clove extract, such as sold by Maruzen under the name Clove extract powder; argan nut oil, such as sold under the name Lipofructyl Laboratories Serobiologiques; milk protein filtrate, such as sold by Sederma under the name Normaseb; seaweed kelp genus extract, such as sold under the name LAMINARGHANE by Biotechmarine; oligosaccharide seaweed kelp palm (LAMINARIA DIGITATA), such as sold by Codif under the name Phycosaccharide AC; Extracts of sugar cane, such as sold under the name Policosanol by Sabinsa company; sulfonated shale oil, such as sold by Ichthyol under the name Ichtyol Pale; an extract of spiraea ulmaria (Spiraea ulmaria), such as sold by societeLibiol under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire; sebacic acid, in particular sold by Sederma under the name Sebosoft in the form of sodium polyacrylate gel; glucomannans extracted from konjak tubers and modified with alkyl sulfonate chains, such as are sold under the name Biopol Beta by ARCH CHEMICAL; Extracts of kuh-seng (Sophora angustifolia), such as those sold under the name Sophora powder or Sophora extract by Bioland; extracts of cinchona Bark succinubra, such as sold by Alban Muller under the name Red Bark HS; extracts of Quillaja saponaria (Quillaja saponaria), such as sold by Alban Muller under the name Panama wood HS; glycine grafted onto the undecene chain, such as sold by SEPPIC under the name Lipacide UG OR; A mixture of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid, such as sold by Sederma under the name ac.net in gel form; phthalimido peroxy caproic acid; tri (C12-C13) citrate, sold by Sasol under the name cosmacol. Trialkyl citrate (C14-C15), sold by Sasol under the name cosmacol. 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, including a mixture of hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid, and 1, 10-decanediol, as sold under the name Acnacidol BG by VINCIENCE; And mixtures thereof.

Decoloring agent

Non-limiting examples of depigmenting agents include alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, gentisic acid, methyl gentisate or methyl homogentisate, biacid, D pantetheine calcium sulfonate (D PANTHETEINE calcium sulphonate), lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, certain compounds derived from plants such as chamomile, bearberry, aloe (vera, ferox, bardensis), mulberry, scutellaria, kiwi fruit (WATER KIWI fruis) sold by Gattefosse (ACTINIDIA CHINENSIS), peony root extracts such as the product sold under the name Liquid Botanpi B by Ichimaru Pharcos, brown sugar (Saccharum officinarum) extracts such as the molasses extract sold under the name Liquid Molasses by Taiyo Kagaku, which list is not exhaustive. Specific depigmenting agents include alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and derivatives, calcium D pantetheine sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, actinidia arguta (ACTINIDIA CHINENSIS) sold by Gattefosse, peony root extracts, such as the product sold under the name Botanpi Liquid B by Ichimaru Pharcos company.

Anti-wrinkle agent

The term "anti-wrinkle agent" refers to a natural or synthetic compound that produces a biological effect upon contact with a wrinkled skin area, such as increasing the synthesis and/or activity of certain enzymes, which has the effect of reducing the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines. Non-limiting examples of anti-wrinkling agents include: keratolytic agents (desquamating agents), anti-glycation agents, inhibitors of NO synthase, agents for stimulating the synthesis of and/or preventing the degradation of dermal or epidermal macromolecules, agents for stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts and/or keratinocytes or for stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes, reducing agents; muscle relaxant and/or skin relaxant (dermo-decontracting agents), anti-radical agent, and mixtures thereof. Examples of such compounds are: adenosine and its derivatives, and retinoids other than retinol (as described above, e.g., retinol palmitate), ascorbic acid and its derivatives, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; nicotinic acid and its precursors, such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and precursors thereof, such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid; compound C-glycosides and derivatives thereof as described in particular in EP-1345919, in particular C- β -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane as described in particular in EP-1345919; plant extracts including extracts of sea fennel and olive leaves; And plants and their hydrolysates, such as rice protein hydrolysates or soy proteins; algae extract, in particular laminaria, bacterial extract, sapogenins, such as diosgenin and extracts of dioscorea plants (in particular wild yam), comprising: an alpha-hydroxy acid; beta-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides and acyl derivatives thereof, in particular the acids {2- [ acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino ] -3-methyl- } acetic acid and lipopeptides sold under the trade names Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000 by SEDERMA company; Lycopene; manganese salts and magnesium salts (especially gluconate), and mixtures thereof. In at least one instance, the skin tightening composition comprises an adenosine derivative, such as a non-phosphate derivative of adenosine, particularly such as 2' -deoxyadenosine, 2',3' -isopropylidene adenosine; toyocamycin (toyocamycine), 1-methyladenosine, N-6-methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide, 6-methyl mercaptopurine nucleoside and 6-chloropurine nucleoside. Other derivatives include adenosine receptor agonists such as adenosine phenylisopropyl ("PIA"), 1-methylisoguanosine, N6-Cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N6-Cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N6-phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, MECA, N6-phenethyladenosine, 2-p- (2-carboxy-ethyl) phenethyl-amino-5 '-N-ethylcarboxamido adenosine (CGS-21680), N-ethylcarboxamido-adenosine (NECA), 5' (N-cyclopropyl) -carboxamido adenosine, DPMA (PD 129.944) and adenyl.

Miscellaneous ingredients may be included in the cosmetic composition, for example, in an amount of about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients may be about 0.01 to about 8 wt%, about 0.01 to about 5 wt%, about 0.01 to about 3 wt%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, or about 1 to about 3 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

As already indicated, a skin active agent may be included as one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Regarding the total amount of skin active agent in the cosmetic composition, the total amount of skin active agent, if present, may be from greater than 0to about 9 wt%, from greater than 0to about 8 wt%, from greater than 0to about 7 wt%, from greater than 0to about 6 wt%, from greater than 0to about 5wt%, from greater than 0to about 4 wt%, from greater than 0to about 3 wt%, from greater than 0to about 2wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition; about 10ppm to about 10wt% (100,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 5wt% (50,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 2.5 wt% (25,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 1wt% (10,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 0.5 wt% (5,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 0.3 wt% (3,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 0.2 wt% (2,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 0.1 wt% (1,000 ppm), about 10ppm to 500 ppm. About 0.1 to about 10wt%, about 0.1 to about 5wt%, about 0.1 to about 2.5 wt%, about 0.1 to about 1wt%, about 0.1 to about 0.5 wt%; about 1to about 10wt%, about 1to about 8 wt%, about 1to about 6 wt%, about 1to about 5wt%, about 1to about 4 wt%, about 1to about 3 wt%; about 2 to about 10wt%, about 2 to about 8 wt%, about 2 to about 6 wt%, about 2 to about 5wt%, about 2 to about 4 wt%; about 3 to about 10wt%, about 3 to about 8 wt%, about 3 to about 6 wt%, about 3 to about 5wt%; about 4 to about 10wt%, about 4 to about 8 wt%, or about 4 to about 6 wt%.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may optionally comprise one or more phenolic or polyphenolic active compounds, such as baicalin. In one embodiment, however, the cosmetic composition may be free or substantially free of phenolic or polyphenolic active compounds, particularly baicalin.

Stability of

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure are stable and retinol is preserved. With respect to physical stability, in certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition does not visually phase separate or form visually observable particles when stored at 4 ℃, 25 ℃,37 ℃ and/or 45 ℃ for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks.

In another embodiment, the cosmetic composition does not visually phase separate or form visually observable particles for at least 10 cycles of a freeze-thaw test, wherein the freeze-thaw test comprises placing the cosmetic composition in a stabilization chamber and subjecting it to temperature fluctuations at 12 hour intervals, a first interval of 12 hours at-20 ℃ followed by a second interval of 12 hours at 25 ℃.

In another embodiment, the cosmetic composition does not change in viscosity by more than 20%, 15%, 10% or 5% when stored at 4 ℃, 25 ℃, 37 ℃ and/or 45 ℃ for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks.

Regarding chemical stability of retinol, in various embodiments, at least 70%, 75%, 80%, 85%, 90% or 95% of retinol is preserved at 8 weeks when the cosmetic composition is incorporated into a sealed polyethylene terephthalate (PETG) container and stored at 25 ℃ and/or 45 ℃.

Viscosity of the mixture

In general, it is preferred that the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure have a viscosity of from about 10,000 to about 200,000pa.s at 25 ℃ and at a shear rate of 1s ^-1 at 25 ℃. The cosmetic composition may have a viscosity of about 10,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 120,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 120,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 150,000pa.s, or about 20,000 to about 120,000pa.s at 25 ℃ and at a shear rate of 1s ^-1.

The viscosity measurements may be made, for example, using Broooksfield viscometer/rheometer using t-bar spindles at speeds of 5, 10, 15, and/or 20 rpm. RVDV-II+Pro viscometers with Rheocalct software can be used for automated instrument control and data acquisition. The test temperature was maintained at 25℃by using Brookfield TC-502P Programmable Refrigerated Bath. The samples were transferred from their original containers to 120 ml glass jars and subsequently tested.

Method of

The present disclosure relates to methods of treating skin. The method comprises applying a cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure, optionally leaving the cosmetic composition on the skin for a period of time. The cosmetic composition is typically applied directly to the skin by hand or by cloth. The skin may optionally be washed or rinsed prior to application. The method for treating skin may be performed once per day or may be performed multiple times. For example, the method for treating skin may be performed once daily, twice daily, once weekly, once every two weeks for a longer period of time, such as about 1,2,3, 4, 5, or 6 months up to 1 year or more. In various embodiments, the methods relate to, but are not limited to, promoting collagen and/or elastin production, reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone, tightening the skin, preventing and/or treating acne, reducing the development of melanin, and improving and lightening overall gas color.

In certain embodiments, the method further comprises mixing the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure with one or more additional cosmetic compositions prior to application to the skin. For example, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may be mixed with one or more additional cosmetic compositions immediately prior to application to the skin, e.g., mixing may occur within 1 minute, 2 minutes, 5 minutes, 10 minutes, 15 minutes, or 30 minutes prior to application to the skin. In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition may be mixed in an individual's hand prior to application of the mixture to skin (e.g., facial skin).

In various embodiments, the present disclosure relates to methods for stabilizing cosmetic compositions containing high amounts of retinol. In various embodiments, the present disclosure relates to preserving retinol in cosmetic compositions. This allows cosmetic compositions containing substantial amounts of retinol to preserve (maintain) the substantial amounts of retinol over time.

Suit

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may be provided in a kit, for example, a kit comprising a separately housed cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure and one or more additional separately housed cosmetic compositions. In one embodiment, the one or more separately housed compositions may be additional compositions according to the present disclosure, or may be different compositions. The cosmetic compositions may be contained separately in different cartridges (cartridge) that are included in the dispensing apparatus/device. In other words, the kit may be a dispensing apparatus/device comprising a plurality of cartridges in which the compositions are contained. The kit (or device/apparatus) may optionally dispense the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure and individually dispense one or more individually contained compositions. In various embodiments, the compositions may be dispensed separately or simultaneously, and may optionally be mixed with each other (or not) prior to dispensing. In one embodiment, the various compositions are not mixed with each other prior to dispensing. Useful systems, cartridges, and dispensing devices/apparatus are disclosed in U.S. patent nos. 9,968,177 and 9,808,071; U.S. patent application publication Nos. 2021/0236190, 2021/0235849 and 2021/0236863; and U.S. Ser. No. 17/162,555, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

Description of the embodiments

In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises or consists of:

(a) About 0.05 to about 6 wt%, preferably about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3 wt% retinol;

(b) From about 1 to about 8 wt%, preferably from about 1.3 to about 8 wt%, more preferably from about 1.3 to about 6 wt%, even more preferably from about 1.3 to about 5wt%, of a plurality of nonionic emulsifiers comprising:

(i) One or more ethoxylated fatty acids, such as adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric, palmitic, stearic or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, having 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups;

(ii) One or more nonionic emulsifiers having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of from about 9 to about 12, for example selected from: (1) Polyglycerin fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylene alkyl glycerides and polyoxyalkylene fatty ethers; (2) Fatty acids or fatty alcohols, mixed esters of carboxylic acids and glycerol; (3) fatty acid esters of sugars and fatty alcohol ethers of sugars; (4) Fatty esters of sorbitan and oxyalkylenated fatty esters of sorbitan; and mixtures thereof;

(iii) Optionally one or more glycerides, such as glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolinate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or mixtures thereof. In at least one instance, the glycerol ester comprises glycerol stearate, glycerol ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof;

(iv) Optionally one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers;

(c) About 0.1 to about 8 wt%, preferably about 0.5 to about 6 wt%, more preferably about 1 to about 5 wt%, of one or more fatty alcohols, such as fatty alcohols selected from fatty alcohols having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, particularly C14-24 alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tetradecyl or myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignan alcohol, and mixtures thereof;

(d) About 1 to about 20 wt%, preferably about 5 to about 18 wt%, more preferably about 5 to about 15 wt% of one or more fatty compounds, such as one or more fatty compounds selected from the group consisting of fatty esters (e.g., isononyl isononanoate), polyolefin (petrolatum), wax, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, vegetable and/or vegetable oils (e.g., soybean oil), hydrocarbon-based oils (e.g., isohexadecane), silicone oils, and mixtures thereof;

(e) About 0.1 to about 8 wt%, preferably about 0.5 to about 5wt%, more preferably about 1 to about 3 wt%, of one or more thickening polymers, preferably one or more taurate copolymers, particularly one or more taurate copolymers selected from the group consisting of acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymers, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers, and mixtures thereof; and

(F) About 55 to about 85 wt%, preferably about 60 to about 80 wt%, more preferably about 65 to about 75 wt% water;

(g) Optionally one or more water-soluble solvents, such as one or more water-soluble solvents selected from the group consisting of glycerol, monohydric alcohols (e.g., C1-5 monohydric alcohols), organic solvents, polyhydric alcohols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols (e.g., propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, etc.), and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol, one or more monohydric alcohols selected from the group consisting of ethanol, isopropanol, and t-butanol, and one or more glycols selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and pentylene glycol, wherein the amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents, if present, is from about 1 to about 20 weight percent, preferably from about 5 to about 18 weight percent, more preferably from about 5 to about 15 weight percent;

(h) Optionally one or more miscellaneous ingredients, for example one or more miscellaneous ingredients selected from the group consisting of miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants other than the nonionic emulsifiers of the plurality of nonionic emulsifiers of (b), preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, plant extracts, UV filters, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescers, fillers, colorants, matte agents, other skin-active agents, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkle agents, wherein the one or more miscellaneous ingredients, if present, constitute from about 0.01 to about 10 wt%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, more preferably from about 1 to about 8 wt% of the cosmetic composition;

In certain preferred embodiments, the plurality of nonionic emulsifiers (b) may comprise or consist of:

(i) About 0.1 to about 5 wt%, preferably about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, more preferably about 0.2 to about 2 wt%, of one or more ethoxylated fatty acids, such as adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric, palmitic, stearic or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, having 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups;

(ii) About 0.1 to about 5 wt%, preferably about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, more preferably about 0.2 to about 2 wt%, of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of about 9 to about 12, for example selected from: (1) Polyglycerin fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylene alkyl glycerides and polyoxyalkylene fatty ethers; (2) Fatty acids or fatty alcohols, mixed esters of carboxylic acids and glycerol; (3) fatty acid esters of sugars and fatty alcohol ethers of sugars; (4) Fatty esters of sorbitan and oxyalkylenated fatty esters of sorbitan; and mixtures thereof;

(iii) Optionally about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, preferably about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, more preferably about 0.2 to about 2 wt% of one or more glycerides, such as glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or a mixture thereof, preferably selected from the group consisting of glyceryl stearate, glyceryl ricinoleate, and a mixture thereof;

(iv) Optionally one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers, if present, may be present in an amount of from about 0.01 to about 5 wt%, preferably from about 0.01 to about 3 wt%,

Wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition (not the total weight of the plurality of nonionic surfactants).

In general, the cosmetic composition preferably has a viscosity of about 10,000 to about 200,000pa.s at 25 ℃ and at a shear rate of 1s ^-1 at 25 ℃. The cosmetic composition may have a viscosity of about 10,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 120,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 120,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 150,000pa.s, or about 20,000 to about 120,000pa.s at 25 ℃ and at a shear rate of 1s ^-1.

In various embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises or consists of:

(ii) About 0.1 to about 5wt%, preferably about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, more preferably about 0.2 to about 2 wt%, of one or more ethoxylated fatty acids, such as adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric, palmitic, stearic or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, having 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups;

(ii) About 0.1 to about 5 wt%, preferably about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, more preferably about 0.2 to about 2 wt%, of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of about 9 to about 12, for example selected from: (1) Polyglycerin fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylene alkyl glycerides and polyoxyalkylene fatty ethers; (2) Fatty acids or fatty alcohols, mixed esters of carboxylic acids and glycerol; (3) fatty acid esters of sugars and fatty alcohol ethers of sugars; (4) Fatty esters of sorbitan and oxyalkylenated fatty esters of sorbitan; and mixtures thereof, preferably at least one of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of about 9 to about 12 is selected from alkyl polyglucosides (e.g., C12-20 alkyl glucosides), polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-2 dimerized hydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-2 polyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucdistearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof;

(iii) Optionally about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, preferably about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, more preferably about 0.2 to about 2 wt% of one or more glycerides, such as glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or mixtures thereof, preferably selected from the group consisting of glyceryl stearate, glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof;

(iv) Optionally one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the amount of the one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers, if present, may be from about 0.01 to about 5wt%, preferably from about 0.01 to about 3 wt%;

(e) About 0.1 to about 8 wt%, preferably about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, more preferably about 1 to about 3 wt% of one or more thickening polymers, wherein at least one of the one or more thickening polymers is a taurate copolymer selected from the group consisting of acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and mixtures thereof; and

(e) Optionally one or more water-soluble solvents, such as one or more water-soluble solvents selected from glycerol, monohydric alcohols (e.g., C1-5 monohydric alcohols), organic solvents, polyhydric alcohols (polyhydroxy alcohols), glycols (e.g., propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, etc.), and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol, one or more monohydric alcohols selected from ethanol, isopropanol, and t-butanol, and one or more glycols selected from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and pentylene glycol, wherein the amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents, if present, is preferably from about 1 to about 20 weight percent, preferably from about 5 to about 18 weight percent, more preferably from about 5 to about 15 weight percent;

Examples

As various changes could be made in the above compositions and methods without departing from the scope of the invention, it is intended that all matter contained in the above description and shown in the examples below shall be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and illustrative only. The amounts of ingredients in the compositions/formulations described below are expressed in weight percent based on the total weight of the composition.

Example 1

(Inventive composition)

Example 2

(Stability data)

The composition of example 1 was subjected to a physical stability study, visually evaluated for phase separation and evaluated for particle formation under a microscope. The composition was analyzed at the time the composition was initially made (T ₀). The composition was again analyzed after 10 days of freeze-thaw testing. For the freeze-thaw test, the composition was placed in a stabilization chamber and subjected to temperature fluctuations at 12 hour intervals. The composition was kept at-20 ℃ for 12 hours. The composition was maintained at 25℃for the next 12 hours. The cycle was repeated 10 times (10 days). Separately, the composition of example 1 was evaluated after storage for 4 weeks (1 month) at 4 ℃, 25 ℃, 37 ℃ and 45 ℃ and again after storage for 8 weeks (2 months) at 4 ℃, 25 ℃, 37 ℃ and 45 ℃ and visually evaluating phase separation and evaluating particle formation under a microscope.

The compositions of the present invention are considered stable ("Y") (yes) because they do not visually phase separate and do not form particles.

Chemical stability, in particular the chemical stability (resistance to degradation) of retinol in cosmetic compositions was also evaluated. The composition of example 1 was added separately to a sealed polyethylene terephthalate (PETG) cartridge, stored at 25 ℃ and 45 ℃ and the amount of residual retinol was determined at 8 weeks. The amount of retinol was determined by HPLC in combination with UV-Vis. A calibration curve was prepared to quantify the area under the curve for each sample.

The foregoing description illustrates and describes the present invention. The disclosure shows and describes only the preferred embodiments, but it is to be understood that the invention is capable of use in various other combinations, modifications, and environments and is capable of changes or modifications within the scope of the inventive concept as expressed herein, commensurate with the above teachings and/or the skill or knowledge of the relevant art. The embodiments described hereinabove are further intended to explain best modes known of the applicant and to enable others skilled in the art to utilize the disclosure in such, or other, embodiments and with the various modifications required by the particular applications or uses thereof. Accordingly, the description is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein.

Definition of the definition

The term "fatty compound" as used herein includes silicone oils.

The term "silicone oil" as used herein refers to liquid polymeric silicone compounds having organic side chains. Depending on the type of organic side chain, various silicone oils exist.

The terms "comprising," "having," "including," and "containing" are used herein in their open, non-limiting sense. The phrase "consisting essentially of" limits the scope of the claims to the specified materials or steps as well as those materials or steps that do not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics of the claimed invention.

The terms "a," "an," and "the" are to be construed as covering both the plural and the singular.

Thus, the term "a mixture thereof" also relates to "a plurality of mixtures thereof". Throughout this disclosure, the term "mix thereof" may be used after a list of elements as shown in the following examples, where the letters a-F represent the elements: "one or more elements selected from A, B, C, D, E, F or a mixture thereof". The term "mixing thereof" does not require that the mixing include all A, B, C, D, E and F (although all A, B, C, D, E and F may be included). Rather, it means that a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase "one or more elements selected from A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E and F.

Likewise, the term "a salt thereof" also relates to "salts thereof". Thus, if the disclosure refers to "an element selected from A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, or a mixture thereof," it means that one or more of A, B, C, D and F can be included, one or more of a salt, B salt, C salt, D salt, E salt, and F salt can be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, A salt, B salt, C salt, D salt, E salt, and F salt can be included.

Salts referred to throughout this disclosure may include salts with counterions such as alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium counterions. But this list of counterions is non-limiting. Suitable counterions for the components described herein are known in the art.

The expression "one or more" means "at least one" and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

The term "plurality" means "more than one" or "two or more".

"Alkyl" is a radical based on a saturated hydrocarbon, straight or branched, in particular C ₁-C₈, more in particular C ₁-C₆, preferably C ₁-C₄, such as methyl, ethyl, isopropyl and tert-butyl;

"alkoxy" is alkyl-oxy, wherein alkyl is as described above;

"alkenyl" is a radical based on a linear or branched unsaturated hydrocarbon, in particular C ₂-C₈, more in particular C ₂-C₆, preferably C ₂-C₄, such as ethenyl, propenyl;

"alkylene" is a straight or branched divalent saturated C ₁-C₈, especially C ₁-C₆, preferably C ₁-C₄ hydrocarbon-based group, such as methylene, ethylene or propylene.

Some of the various classes of components specified for the cosmetic composition may overlap. Where there may be overlap and the composition/product comprises two overlapping elements (or more than two overlapping elements), the overlapping elements do not represent more than one element. As one example, a particular compound may be considered both as a "fatty compound" and as an "emulsifier". If a particular composition/product comprises a fatty compound and an emulsifier, the compound may act as a fatty compound alone or as an emulsifier alone (a single compound does not act as both the compound and the emulsifier).

All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the composition of the present invention, unless otherwise specified.

All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive of the (inclusive) and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within the scope described herein may be used as a minimum value or a maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc. Furthermore, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within the given range and combinations of sub-ranges between the given ranges. Thus, a range of 1-5 explicitly includes points 1,2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as sub-ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, and the like; and points 1,2, 3, 4, and 5 include ranges and subranges from 1 to 5, 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, and so forth.

Except in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions can be modified by the term "about" whether or not explicitly stated.

Furthermore, all numerical values are intended to represent precise values as additional embodiments, whether or not modified by the term "about". For example, an "amount of about 1% may be modified to refer to exactly 1%. As a further example, an "1% amount" may be modified to mean "about 1%". Unless otherwise indicated, the term "about" should be understood to encompass a range of +/-10% of the specified value. In some embodiments, however, the term may be defined to encompass narrower ranges, such as +/-1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, and 10% of the specified values.

The terms "surfactant" and "emulsifier" include salts of surfactants and emulsifiers, even if not explicitly stated. In other words, whenever the present disclosure refers to a surfactant or emulsifier, it is intended that salts are also encompassed to the extent that such salts are present, even though the specification may not specifically mention the salts (or may not mention the salts in each case throughout the present disclosure) -for example by using a language such as "a salt thereof" or "salts thereof". Sodium and potassium are common cations that form salts with surfactants and emulsifiers. But additional cations, such as ammonium ions or alkanolammonium ions, such as monoethanolamine or triethanolamine ions, may also form salts of the surfactant.

The term "substantially free" or "substantially free" as used herein means that the particular material may be present in minor amounts that do not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics of the claimed invention. For example, less than 2 weight percent of a particular material added to the composition may be present based on the total weight of the composition (provided that an amount of less than 2 weight percent does not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics of the claimed invention). Similarly, a composition that is "substantially free" or "substantially free" of a specified material may comprise less than 1.5 wt.%, less than 1 wt.%, less than 0.5 wt.%, less than 0.1 wt.%, less than 0.05 wt.%, or less than 0.01 wt.% of the specified material, or be completely free of the specified material. The term "substantially free" or "substantially free" as used herein may also mean that no particular material is added to the composition, but may still be present in the raw materials contained in the composition.

Furthermore, all components listed positively in the present disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims, e.g., the claimed compositions may be "free", "substantially free" (or "substantially free") of one or more components listed positively in the present disclosure. As one example, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may optionally comprise one or more phenolic or polyphenolic active compounds, such as baicalin. In one embodiment, however, the cosmetic composition may be free or substantially free of phenolic or polyphenolic active compounds, particularly baicalin.

All publications and patent applications cited in this specification are herein incorporated by reference for any and all purposes as if each individual publication or patent application were specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by reference. In the event of an inconsistency between the present disclosure and any of the publications or patent applications incorporated by reference herein, the present disclosure controls.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) About 0.05 to about 6 weight percent retinol;

(i) One or more ethoxylated fatty acids;

(iii) Optionally one or more glycerides; and

(Iv) Optionally one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers;

(c) About 0.1 to about 8 weight percent of one or more fatty alcohols;

(d) About 1 to about 20 weight percent of one or more fatty compounds;

(e) One or more thickening polymers; and

(F) Water;

2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, comprising about 0.1 to about 3 wt.% retinol.

3. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 or claim 2, comprising (b) (iii) one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers.

4. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the plurality of nonionic emulsifiers (b) comprises:

(i) About 0.1 to about 5 weight percent of one or more glycerides;

(ii) About 0.1 to about 5 weight percent of one or more ethoxylated fatty acids; and

(Iii) About 0.1 to about 5 weight percent of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of about 9 to about 12; and

(Iv) Optionally one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers.

5. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the glyceride (b) (iii) is selected from the group consisting of glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolinate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or a mixture thereof; in at least one instance, the glycerol ester comprises glycerol stearate, glycerol ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

6. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the ethoxylated fatty acid is selected from adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric, palmitic, stearic or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, comprising 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups.

7. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 12 are selected from alkyl polyglucosides (e.g., C12-20 alkyl glucosides), polyglycerol-based emulsifiers (e.g., polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate), sorbitan fatty esters (e.g., polysorbate 60), sugar fatty esters, polyol fatty esters, ethoxylates thereof, or mixtures thereof.

8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more fatty alcohols are selected from fatty alcohols having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from C14-22 alcohols, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tetradecyl or myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignan alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

9. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more fatty compounds are selected from fatty esters (e.g., diisopropyl sebacate, isononyl isononanoate), polyolefins (petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosquaene, vegetable oil and/or vegetable oil (e.g., soybean oil), hydrocarbon-based oil (isohexadecane), silicone oil (e.g., polydimethylsiloxane, dimethiconol), and mixtures thereof.

10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one of the one or more fatty compounds is a silicone oil, preferably a polydimethylsiloxane.

11. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more water-soluble solvents are selected from the group consisting of glycerin, monohydric alcohols, polyhydric alcohols (polyhydroxy alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof.

12. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one of the one or more thickening polymers is a taurate copolymer.

13. The composition of claim 12, wherein the one or more taurate copolymers are selected from the group consisting of acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

14. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, comprising from about 55 to about 85 wt% water.

15. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, further comprising:

(e) About 5 to about 20 weight percent of one or more water-soluble solvents.

16. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, further comprising:

(h) About 0.1 to about 10 weight percent of one or more miscellaneous ingredients.

17. The cosmetic composition of claim 13, wherein the one or more miscellaneous ingredients are selected from miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants other than the nonionic emulsifiers of the plurality of nonionic emulsifiers of (b), preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, plant extracts, UV filters, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescers, fillers, colorants, matte agents, other skin active agents, buffers, and mixtures thereof.

18. The composition of any of the above claims having a viscosity of about 20,000 to about 80,000cpa.s at 25 ℃ and at a shear rate of 1s ^-1 at 25 ℃.

19. A cosmetic composition comprising or consisting of:

(a) About 0.4 to about 5 weight percent retinol;

(i) About 0.1 to about 5 weight percent of one or more ethoxylated fatty acids;

(ii) About 0.1 to about 5 weight percent of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of about 9 to about 12;

(i) Optionally about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent of one or more glycerides; and

(Iv) Optionally one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers;

(c) About 0.5 to about 5 weight percent of one or more fatty alcohols selected from fatty alcohols having 8 to 24 carbon atoms;

(d) About 5 to about 10 weight percent of one or more fatty compounds;

(e) One or more thickening polymers selected from taurine salt copolymers;

(f) About 55 to about 85 weight percent water;

(g) About 5 to about 20 weight percent of one or more water-soluble solvents; and

(H) From about 0.1 to about 8 weight percent of one or more miscellaneous ingredients selected from miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants other than the nonionic emulsifiers of the plurality of nonionic emulsifiers of (b), preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, plant extracts, UV filters, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescers, fillers, colorants, matte agents, other skin-active agents, buffers, and mixtures thereof;

20. A kit comprising the cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims and one or more additional skin treatment compositions, wherein each of the cosmetic composition and the one or more skin treatment compositions are contained separately.

21. A method for treating skin, preferably a non-therapeutic method, comprising applying to skin a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19.