CN118201589A

CN118201589A - Cosmetic composition comprising a high amount of ceramide-NP

Info

Publication number: CN118201589A
Application number: CN202280073637.6A
Authority: CN
Inventors: J·J·法伊; S·哈尔彭切尔奇; A·加尔迪; Y·J·尹; D·陈
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2021-10-31
Filing date: 2022-10-28
Publication date: 2024-06-14

Abstract

The present disclosure relates to stable cosmetic compositions containing high amounts of ceramide NP. The cosmetic composition further comprises a plurality of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triols, a plurality of emulsifiers, fatty alcohols, fatty compounds, and water. Also described are methods of stabilizing cosmetic compositions containing high amounts of ceramide NP and methods of treating skin with the cosmetic compositions.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising a high amount of ceramide-NP

Cross reference to related applications

The application claims the benefit of U.S. Ser. No. 63/273,962, filed on Ser. No. 63/273 at 31 at 10 at 2021, and the benefit of French application number FR 2200818 filed on 31 at 1 at 2022, which are incorporated herein by reference in their entireties.

FIELD OF THE DISCLOSURE

The present disclosure relates to stable cosmetic compositions comprising a substantial amount of ceramide-NP; and to a method for stabilizing a cosmetic composition containing a high amount of ceramide-NP. The present disclosure also describes methods of treating skin with the cosmetic compositions.

SUMMARY

In one aspect, the present disclosure relates, inter alia, to cosmetic compositions comprising surprisingly large amounts of ceramide-NP. In addition, the composition contains a surprisingly large amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol. These active ingredients provide many cosmetic benefits to the skin, but have been difficult to dissolve and stabilize in the past, especially in large amounts. The inventors of the present disclosure have developed, inter alia, surprisingly stable compositions comprising a significant amount of ceramide-NP and a surprisingly large amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol. Due to the high amount of ceramide-NP, the cosmetic composition provides excellent cosmetic properties to the skin, such as hydration of the skin and maintenance of moisture balance, alleviation/reduction of itching, chronic dryness, peeling and flaking. ceramide-NP also helps to enhance the natural lipid barrier of skin, which helps to treat dry and aged skin. Due to the high amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, the cosmetic composition provides benefits such as reduced fine lines and wrinkles, improved hyaluronic acid production by stimulating glycosaminoglycan (GAG) synthesis, softening the stratum corneum to relieve cumulative stress on the epidermis and dermis, and the like.

In one aspect, the present disclosure relates, inter alia, to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises:

(a) Ceramide NP;

(b) Water;

(c) One or more first emulsifiers selected from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers;

(d) One or more second emulsifiers selected from glycerides having an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) of about 3 to about 6;

(e) One or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids;

(f) One or more fatty alcohols; and

(G) One or more non-triglycerides and non-aromatic fatty compounds;

wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.

In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more of the following weight ratios of (a) and (c) - (g):

A weight ratio ((c) to (a)) of the one or more first emulsifiers selected from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers to ceramide NP of about 1.5:1 to about 8:1; and/or

About 0.8:1 to about 4:1 of the weight ratio ((d) to (a)) of the one or more second emulsifiers to ceramide NP selected from glycerides having an HLB of about 3 to about 6; and/or

From about 0.7:1 to about 4:1 of the weight ratio ((e) to (a)) of the one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids to ceramide NP; and/or

A weight ratio ((f) to (a)) of the one or more fatty alcohols to ceramide NP of about 0.7:1 to about 4:1; and/or

The weight ratio ((g) to (a)) of the one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds to ceramide NP is from about 4:1 to about 20:1.

Non-limiting examples of polyglycerol-based emulsifiers include polyglycerol-10 stearate, polyglycerol-3-decanoate, polyglycerol-3-diisostearate, polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate or mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of glycerides having an HLB of about 3 to about 8 include glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolinate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or mixtures thereof. In at least one instance, the glycerol ester comprises glycerol stearate, glycerol ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of ethoxylated fatty acids having 40 to 100 propyleneoxy groups and a fatty acid chain of 12 to 24 carbons include lauric acid, tridecylic acid, myristic acid, pentadecylic acid, palmitic acid, margaric acid, stearic acid, nonadecylic acid, arachic acid, hendecanoic acid, behenic acid, tricosanoic acid and tetracosanoic acid, among others, containing 40 to 100 propyleneoxy groups.

Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include those having 12 to 24 carbon atoms. For example, the fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of non-triglycerides and non-aromatic fatty compounds include fatty esters (isopropyl myristate, sorbitan isostearate), sarcosinates, such as acyl sarcosinates, vegetable and/or oil and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of sarcosinates may be selected from the group consisting of sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium caproyl sarcosinate, TEA-cocoyl sarcosinate, ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, di-linolenyl bislauroyl glutamate/lauroyl sarcosinate, disodium lauroyl diacetate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, TEA-cocoyl sarcosinate, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, TEA-oleoyl sarcosinate, TEA-palm kernel sarcosinate, and combinations thereof.

In various embodiments, the cosmetic composition may optionally comprise one or more thickening polymers. Non-limiting examples of various types of thickening polymers include polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polyethyl acrylates and polyacrylamides, acrylic acid/acryloyltriazole copolymers, acrylic acid/steareth-20 itaconate copolymers, acrylic acid/cetyl alcohol polyether-20 itaconate copolymers, acrylic acid/amino acid esters/C10-30 alkyl PEG-20 itaconate copolymers, acrylic acid/amino acid ester copolymers, acrylic acid/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymers, acrylic acid/behenyl alcohol polyether-25 methacrylate copolymers, acrylic acid/steareth-20 methacrylate crosslinked polymers, acrylic acid/behenyl alcohol polyether-25 methacrylate/HEMA crosslinked polymers, acrylic acid/vinyl neodecanoate crosslinked polymers, acrylic acid/vinyl isodecanoate crosslinked polymers, acrylic acid/palmitoleic polyether-25 acrylic acid ester copolymers, acrylic acid/acrylamide methylpropanesulfonic acid copolymers and acrylic acid/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymers, carbomers, hydrophobically modified polyacrylates; hydrophobically modified polyacrylic acid, hydrophobically modified polyacrylamide; hydrophobically modified polyethers (wherein these materials may have hydrophobes which may be selected from cetyl, stearyl, oleoyl, and combinations thereof), acrylamide/ammonium acrylate copolymers; acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80, acryloyldimethyl taurate ammonium/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, acrylate cross-linked polymer-4, acrylate cross-linked polymer-3, acrylate/behenyl alcohol polyether-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylate/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer, acrylate/stearyl alcohol polyether-20 itaconate copolymer, ammonium polyacrylate/isohexadecane/PEG-40 castor oil; carbomer sodium, crosslinked polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth-7, polyacrylate 13/polyisobutylene/polysorbate 20, polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6, polyamide-3, polyquaternium-37, acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate/acrylic acid copolymer, sodium acrylate/acryloyldimethyl taurate, sodium polyacrylate, and mixtures thereof.

In various embodiments, the cosmetic composition may optionally comprise one or more water-soluble solvents. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, glycerin, alcohols (e.g., C _1-30、C_1-15、C_1-10 or C _1-4 alcohols), organic solvents, polyols, glycols, and mixtures thereof.

In various embodiments, silicone may optionally be included in the cosmetic composition, but the composition is preferably free or substantially free of silicone. Silicones are synthetic polymers composed of repeating units of siloxane, elemental silicon, and oxygen in combination with other elements (most commonly carbon and hydrogen). Thus, silicones are also known as polysiloxanes. In some cases, the cosmetic compositions of the present invention may be free or substantially free of dimethicone, amino terminal dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclosiloxanes, silicones, and the like.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition forms part of a kit comprising a cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure and one or more separately contained compositions. In one embodiment, the compositions are contained in a kit, which is a device, such as a device for dispensing cosmetic compositions. In one embodiment, the device mixes the cosmetic composition with one or more additional cosmetic compositions prior to dispensing the mixture. Even though ceramide-NPs are included in the cosmetic composition in large amounts, the compositions are unique in that they are compatible with other cosmetic compositions, particularly other cosmetic compositions for treating skin.

Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to a method of stabilizing a cosmetic composition having a substantial amount of ceramide-NP. As described throughout this disclosure, these methods include combining these ingredients to prepare the compositions of this disclosure.

Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to a method of treating skin. The method comprises applying a cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure to the skin. In one embodiment, the method hydrates the skin and/or provides maintenance of moisture balance, relief/reduction of itching, chronic dryness, scaling and flaking; and improves the natural lipid barrier of the skin, which helps treat dry and aged skin. In certain embodiments, when the composition comprises hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, the method also reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improves hyaluronic acid production by stimulating glycosaminoglycan (GAG) synthesis, softens the stratum corneum to relieve cumulative stress on the epidermis and dermis, and the like.

Other features and aspects of the invention are described in more detail below.

Detailed Description

A common problem associated with formulating compositions, especially compositions comprising multiple components, is ensuring physical stability, chemical stability, solubility, etc. Many additives incorporated into foods, cosmetics, personal care products and household items are difficult to stabilize and dissolve, especially when used in large amounts. The consequences of stability and solubility problems are significant. For example, stability problems can result in partial (if not complete) loss of product integrity, color loss, malodor, viscosity changes, and the like. Stability problems can also lead to an increase or decrease in the amount of the component involved to be applied. With respect to active ingredients, stability problems reduce or eliminate activity and prevent the active ingredient from reaching its intended target in the desired amount.

As aging progresses, the outer skin layer (epidermis) becomes thinner, even though the number of cell layers remains unchanged. But the number of pigment-containing cells (melanocytes) is reduced. Thus, the skin looks pale and translucent. Large pigment spots (age spots, chloasma, or freckles) may appear in the sun exposed areas. Changes in connective tissue reduce the strength and elasticity of the skin. This is known as elastosis. It is more pronounced in the sun-exposed areas (ocular elastosis). Elastosis creates a leather-like, saturated wind cream appearance common to farmers, water hands and others who spend a significant amount of time outdoors. Dehydration increases the risk of skin damage. Malnutrition can also have a negative impact on the skin, causing dryness, rash and edema.

The human skin acts as the first barrier between the body and its environment. Essential for this skin barrier function is the lipid matrix in the outermost layer of the skin (epidermis), the Stratum Corneum (SC). Two of its functions are (1) to prevent excessive water loss through the epidermis, and (2) to avoid penetration of compounds from the environment into the living epidermis and dermis layers and thereby elicit an immune response. The composition of SC lipid matrices is dominated by three lipid classes: cholesterol, free fatty acids and ceramides. These lipids adopt a highly ordered three-dimensional structure of stacked densely arranged lipid layers (lipid sheets): transverse and lamellar lipid organization. The manner in which these lipids are ordered depends on the composition of the lipids. A very common skin disorder in which SC lipid barriers are affected is Atopic Dermatitis (AD).

In particular, there is a need for compositions comprising large amounts of ceramide NP that complement the ceramide in the lipid matrix in the outermost layer of the skin, and reduce the effects of aging, improve the glossiness and smoothness of the skin, and the like.

In one aspect, the present disclosure relates, inter alia, to a stable cosmetic composition comprising a substantial amount of ceramide NP; and to a method of stabilizing a cosmetic composition containing a substantial amount of ceramide NP. In one embodiment, the composition comprises:

(a) Ceramide NP;

(b) Water;

(c) One or more first emulsifiers selected from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers;

(e) One or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids;

(f) One or more fatty alcohols; and

(G) One or more non-triglycerides and non-aromatic fatty compounds;

Wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and the composition comprises one or more of the following weight ratios;

A weight ratio ((f) to (a)) of the one or more fatty alcohols to ceramide NP of about 0.7:1 to about 4:1;

The composition may further comprise other components as described throughout the present disclosure, for example: (i) one or more thickening polymers; and/or (j) one or more water-soluble solvents; and/or (k) one or more miscellaneous components. In certain embodiments, the composition may optionally comprise one or more silicones, but the composition is preferably free or substantially free of silicones.

(a) About 0.1 to about 5 weight percent ceramide NP;

(b) Water;

(c) About 0.5 to about 5 weight percent of one or more first emulsifiers selected from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers;

(d) About 0.5 to about 5 weight percent of one or more second emulsifiers selected from glycerides having an HLB of about 3 to about 6;

(e) About 0.5 to about 5 weight percent of one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids;

(f) About 0.2 to about 5 weight percent of one or more fatty alcohols; and

(G) About 4 to about 20 weight percent of one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds;

(a) About 0.1 to about 5 weight percent ceramide NP;

(b) Water;

(f) About 0.2 to about 5 weight percent of one or more fatty alcohols; and

wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition, provided that one or more of the following ratios apply:

(A) Ceramide NP

Ceramide NP represents "(9Z) -N- [ (2 s,3s,4 r) -1,3, 4-trihydroxybctadec-2-yl ] octadec-9-enamide. Ceramide NP consists of a phytosphingosine backbone N-acylated with saturated fatty acids (stearic acid). Ceramide NP provides many benefits to skin, such as rehydration of dry skin, reduction of itching, chronic dryness, relief of itching, reduction of scaling and flaking.

Typically, the amount of ceramide NP in the cosmetic composition is about 0.1 wt% to about 5 wt% based on the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the amount of ceramide NP is from about 0.1 wt% to about 4.0 wt%, from about 0.1 wt% to about 3 wt%, from about 0.2 wt% to about 5 wt%, from about 0.2 wt% to about 4 wt%, from about 0.2 wt% to about 2 wt%, from about 0.2 wt% to about 3 wt%, from about 0.3 wt% to about 5 wt%, from about 0.3 wt% to about 4 wt%, from about 0.3 wt% to about 3 wt%, from about 0.3 wt% to about 2 wt%, from about 0.4 wt% to about 5 wt%, from about 0.4 wt% to about 4 wt%, from about 0.4 wt% to about 2 wt%, from about 0.5 wt% to about 5 wt%, from about 0.5 wt% to about 4 wt%, from about 0.5 wt% to about 3 wt%, from about 0.5 wt% to about 2 wt%, or from about 1.5 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition. In yet further embodiments, the amount of ceramide NP is at least 0.1 wt%, at least 0.2 wt%, at least 0.3 wt%, at least 0.4 wt%, at least 0.5 wt%, or at least 0.6 wt%, and may have a maximum value of about 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

(B) Water and its preparation method

The amount of water in the compositions of the present disclosure may and will vary with the amount of other components in the cosmetic composition. Nonetheless, in certain embodiments, the amount of water in the composition is from about 50 to about 90 weight percent, based on the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the amount of water in the cosmetic composition is from about 55 to about 90 wt%, from about 60 to about 90 wt%, from about 65 to about 90 wt%, from about 70 to about 90 wt%, from about 60 to about 85 wt%, from about 65 to about 85 wt%, from about 70 to about 85 wt%, from about 60 to about 80 wt%, from about 65 to about 80 wt%, or from about 70 to about 80 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

(C) Polyglycerol-based emulsifiers

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure comprise one or more first emulsifiers selected from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers. Non-limiting examples include polyglycerol-10 stearate, polyglycerol-3-decanoate, polyglycerol-3-diisostearate, polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate or mixtures thereof. In various embodiments, the polyglycerol-based emulsifier may be a polyglycerol ester of a fatty acid having a structure according to the formula:

Wherein n is 2 to 20 or 2 to 10 or 2 to 5, or 2,3,4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, or 10, and R ¹、R² and R ³ each independently can be a fatty acid moiety or hydrogen, provided that at least one of R ¹、R² and R ³ is a fatty acid moiety. For example, R ¹、R² and R ³ may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and have a length of C ₁-C₄₀、C₁-C₃₀、C₁-C₂₅, or C ₁-C₂₀、C₁-C₁₆ or C ₁-C₁₀. In addition, non-limiting examples of nonionic fatty acid polyglycerides include polyglyceride-4 caprylate/caprate, polyglyceride-10 caprylate/caprate, polyglyceride-4 caprate, polyglyceride-10 caprate, polyglyceride-4 laurate, polyglyceride-5 laurate, polyglyceride-6 laurate, polyglyceride-10 cocoate, polyglyceride-10 myristate, polyglyceride-10 oleate, polyglyceride-10 stearate, and mixtures thereof.

In certain embodiments, the polyglycerol-based emulsifier may be selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol esters of C12-22 saturated, unsaturated and branched fatty acids, such as polyglycerol-4 isostearate, polyglycerol-3 oleate, polyglycerol-2-sesquioleate, triisoglyceryl stearate, diglycerol monooleate, tetraglycerol monooleate and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of glycerides may include caprylic acid glycerides, capric acid glycerides, coco acid glycerides, lauric acid glycerides, and combinations thereof.

In some embodiments, particularly useful polyglycerol-based emulsifiers include polyglycerol methyl glucose surfactants such as polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate, polyglycerol-6 methyl glucose distearate, polyglycerol-10 methyl glucose distearate and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the one or more first emulsifiers selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol-based emulsifiers varies, but in some embodiments is from about 0.5 to about 5 weight percent based on the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the amount of the one or more first emulsifiers selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol-based emulsifiers is from about 0.5 to about 4, from about 0.5 to about 3, from about 0.5 to about 2, from about 0.6 to about 5, from about 0.6 to about 4, from about 0.6 to about 3, from about 0.6 to about 2, from about 0.8 to about 4, from about 0.8 to about 3, or from about 0.8 to about 2 weight percent based on the total weight of the composition.

(D) Glycerides having an HLB of about 3 to about 6

The compositions of the present disclosure comprise one or more second emulsifiers selected from glycerides having an HLB of from about 3 to about 6. These are different from the polyglycerol-based emulsifiers discussed above. Suitable non-limiting examples of glycerides having an HLB of about 3 to about 6 are selected from the group consisting of glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolinate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl distearate, or mixtures thereof. In at least one instance, the glycerol ester comprises glycerol stearate, glycerol ricinoleate, or a mixture thereof.

In some cases, the glycerol esters may be selected from esters of oligoglycerol, arachidyl propionate, phytosterol esters, triglycerides of fatty acids and derivatives thereof, non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from polycondensation between linear or branched C4-C50 di-or polycarboxylic acids and C2-C50 diols or polyols, aliphatic esters of esters resulting from esterification of aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid esters with aliphatic carboxylic acids, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of glycerides include glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolinate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or mixtures thereof. In at least one instance, the glyceride comprises a glyceryl stearate, a di-diglyceride polyacyl adipate, or a mixture thereof. In at least one other instance, the glycerol ester comprises glycerol stearate.

In general, the amount of the one or more second emulsifiers selected from glycerides having an HLB of about 3 to about 6 may be about 0.5 wt% to about 5 wt% based on the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the amount of the one or more second emulsifiers selected from glycerides having an HLB of about 3 to about 6 may be about 0.2 to about 5 wt%, about 0.2 to about 4 wt%, about 0.2 to about 3 wt%, about 0.5 wt% to about 4 wt%, about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, about 0.5 to about 2 wt%, about 0.6 to about 5 wt%, about 0.6 to about 4 wt%, about 0.6 to about 3 wt%, about 0.6 to about 2 wt%, about 0.8 to about 4 wt%, about 0.8 wt% to about 3 wt%, or about 0.8 to about 2 wt%, about 1.0 to about 4 wt%, about 1.0 wt% to about 3 wt%, or about 1.0 to about 2 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

(E) Ethoxylated fatty acids

The compositions of the present disclosure comprise one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids. "ethoxylated fatty acids" are also referred to as "ethoxylated fatty acid esters" and "polyethoxylated fatty acids". They are formed when fatty acids are reacted with alkylene oxides. The resulting product may be a monoester, a diester or a mixture thereof.

The ethoxylated fatty acids may be represented by the formula R-C (O) O (CH ₂CH₂O)_n -H, wherein R represents an aliphatic residue of a fatty acid, n represents the number of ethylene oxide molecules in another aspect n is an integer from 2 to 200,2 to 150, 2 to 100, 2 to 50, 3 to 200, 3 to 150, 3 to 100, 3 to 50, or in another aspect 3 to 25, and in a further aspect 3 to 10, R is derived from a fatty acid containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms in yet another aspect of the invention exemplary ethoxylated fatty acids include, but are not limited to, capric acid ethoxylate, lauric acid ethoxylate, myristic acid ethoxylate, stearic acid ethoxylate, oleic acid ethoxylate, coconut fatty acid ethoxylate, and polyethylene glycol 400 propoxylated monolaurate, wherein the number of ethyleneoxy units in each of the above ethoxylates may be 2 or more in one aspect, and in another aspect from 2 to about 200,2 to 200,2 to 150, 2 to 100, 2 to 50, 3 to 200, 3 to 150, 3 to 100, 3 to 50, or 3 to 25 more specific examples of ethoxylated fatty acids are PEG-8 distearate (8 refers to the number of repeating ethyleneoxy units), PEG-8 behenate, PEG-8 caprate, PEG-8 caprylate/caprate, PEG cocoate (PEG without numerical designation meaning that the number of ethyleneoxy units is 2 to 50), PEG-15 cocoate, PEG-2 diisopelargonate, PEG-8 diisostearate, PEG-dilaurate, PEG-dioleate, PEG-distearate, PEG ditaline fatty acid ester, PEG-isostearate, PEG-jojoba acid, PEG-laurate, PEG-linolenate, PEG-myristate, PEG-oleate, PEG-palmitate, PEG-ricinoleate, PEG-stearate, PEG-tall oil fatty acid ester, and the like.

Examples of ethoxylated fatty acids that may be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid and mixtures thereof, in particular those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (CTFA name: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (CTFA name: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (CTFA name: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (CTFA name: PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.

In some cases, the one or more ethoxylated fatty acids are selected from polyethoxylated stearates, such as PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate, and combinations thereof.

The amount of the one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids will vary. Nonetheless, in various embodiments from about 0.5 wt% to about 5 wt% based on the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids is from about 0.2 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.2 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.2 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.5 wt% to about 4 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 2wt%, from about 0.6 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.6 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.6 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.6 to about 2wt%, from about 0.8 to about 4 wt%, from about 0.8 wt% to about 3 wt%, or from about 0.8 to about 2wt%, from about 1.0 to about 4 wt%, from about 1.0 wt% to about 3 wt%, or from about 1.0 to about 2wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

(F) Fatty alcohols

The term "fatty alcohol" refers to an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH) and comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxyalkylenated (in particular neither oxyethylenated nor oxypropylated) nor glycerylated. The fatty alcohol may be represented by R-OH, wherein R represents a linear or branched saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl) group comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, still more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The one or more fatty alcohols may be liquid or solid. In some cases, it is preferred that the cosmetic composition comprises at least one solid fatty alcohol. Solid fatty alcohols that can be used include those that are solid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure (25 ℃,780 mmHg) and insoluble in water, that is, they have a water solubility of less than 1 wt%, preferably less than 0.5 wt%, at 25 ℃,1 atm.

The solid fatty alcohol may be represented by R-OH, wherein R represents a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, still more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

Non-limiting examples of useful fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol); myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecyl alcohol); cetyl alcohol (1-cetyl alcohol); stearyl alcohol (1-stearyl alcohol); arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (1-behenyl alcohol); wood wax alcohol (1-tetracosanol); wax alcohol (1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (1-octacosanol); melissa alcohol (1-triacontanol) and its mixture.

In certain embodiments, the one or more fatty alcohols have 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Specific non-limiting examples include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more solid fatty alcohols, for example selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl alcohol (CETYLSTEARYL OR CETEARYL ALCOHOL).

Liquid fatty alcohols, in particular those containing C10-C34, preferably have branched carbon chains and/or have one or more, preferably 1 to 3 double bonds. They are preferably branched and/or unsaturated (c=c double bond) and contain 12 to 40 carbon atoms.

The liquid fatty alcohol may be represented by R-OH, wherein R represents a C12-C24 branched alkyl or alkenyl group (comprising at least one C12-C24 double bond c=c), R optionally being substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is a branched saturated alcohol. Preferably, R does not contain a hydroxyl group. These include oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-decyl-1-tetradecyl alcohol, 2-tetradecyl-1-cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is 2-octyl-1-dodecanol.

In some cases, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more fatty alcohols selected from the group consisting of decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, melissa alcohol, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the cosmetic composition preferably comprises stearyl alcohol.

The amount of one or more fatty alcohols in the cosmetic composition may vary, but in various embodiments is from about 0.2% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the amount of the one or more fatty alcohols in the composition is from about 0.2 to about 5 wt.%, from about 0.2 to about 4 wt.%, from about 0.2 to about 3 wt.%, from about 0.2 to about 2 wt.%, from about 0.3 to about 5 wt.%, from about 0.3 to about 4 wt.%, from about 0.3 to about 3 wt.%, from about 0.3 to about 2 wt.%, from about 0.5 to about 4 wt.%, from about 0.5 to about 3 wt.%, from about 0.5 to about 2 wt.%, from about 0.7 to about 4 wt.%, from about 0.7 to about 3 wt.%, from about 0.7 to about 2 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

(G) Non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure comprise one or more non-triglycerides and non-aromatic fatty compounds. The non-triglycerides and non-aromatic fatty compounds are different from the ethoxylated fatty acids (e) and fatty alcohols (f). Also as the name suggests, they are not triglycerides or aromatic fatty compounds. The term "fatty compound" is interchangeable with "fatty material". Fatty compounds are known as water-insoluble (or only slightly water-soluble) compounds; they are hydrophilic and are usually dissolved in organic solvents. They include materials such as oils, fats, waxes, hydrocarbons, fatty esters, and the like. For purposes of this disclosure, "fatty compounds" excludes glycerides, aromatic fatty compounds, ethoxylated fatty acids, and fatty alcohols as described above. Furthermore, silicones are not considered as fatty compounds according to the present disclosure. In certain embodiments, non-limiting examples of non-triglycerides and non-aromatic fatty compounds include oils, waxes, alkanes (paraffins), fatty acids, fatty esters, lanolin, hydrocarbons, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof. Fatty compounds are described, for example, by International Federation Societies of Cosmetic Chemists in Cosmetic RAW MATERIAL ANALYSIS AND Quality, volume I: hydrocarbons, glycodes, waxes and Other Esters (Redwood Books, 1994), which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

Non-limiting examples of non-triglycerides and non-aromatic fatty compounds include fatty esters (isopropyl myristate, sorbitan isostearate), sarcosinates, such as acyl sarcosinates, vegetable and/or oil and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of sarcosinates include sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium caproyl sarcosinate, TEA-cocoyl sarcosinate, ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, di-linoleum glutamate/lauroyl sarcosinate, disodium lauroyl amphodiacetate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, TEA-cocoyl sarcosinate, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, TEA-oleoyl sarcosinate, TEA-palmitoyl sarcosinate, and combinations thereof.

In one embodiment, it is preferred that the one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds are selected from fatty esters (e.g., isopropyl myristate, sorbitan isostearate), acyl sarcosinates (e.g., isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate), and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of non-triglycerides and non-aromatic fatty compounds include oils, mineral oils, alkanes (paraffins), fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, esters of fatty alcohols, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, waxes, lanolin, and mixtures thereof.

Fatty alcohol derivatives

Fatty alcohol derivatives include fatty esters derived from one or more fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol derivatives also include alkoxylated fatty alcohols, for example having from about 1 to about 100 moles of alkylene oxide per mole of alkoxylated fatty alcohol. For example, the alkoxylated fatty alcohol may be alkoxylated with from about 1 to about 80 moles, from about 2 to about 50 moles, from about 5 to about 45 moles, from about 10 to about 40 moles, or from 15 to about 35 moles (including all ranges and subranges therebetween) of alkylene oxide per mole of alkoxylated fatty alcohol.

As examples of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, mention may be made of steareths (e.g. steareth-2, steareth-20 and steareth-21), laureths (e.g. laureth-4 and laureth-12), cetyl polyethers (e.g. ceteth-10 and ceteth-20) and cetostearyl alcohol polyethers (e.g. cetostearyl alcohol polyether-2, cetostearyl alcohol polyether-10 and cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20). In at least one instance, the one or more alkoxylated fatty alcohols include stearyl alcohol polyether-20. In some cases, the one or more alkoxylated fatty alcohols may be only stearyl polyether-20.

Additional fatty alcohol derivatives that may optionally be suitable include methyl stearyl ether; 2-ethylhexyl dodecyl ether; stearyl acetate; cetyl propionate; compounds of the cetyl polyether series such as cetyl polyether-1 to cetyl polyether-45, which are glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, wherein the numerical designations denote the number of glycol moieties present; compounds of the stearyl alcohol polyether series, such as stearyl alcohol polyethers-1 to 10, which are glycol ethers of stearyl alcohol, wherein the numerical designation indicates the number of glycol moieties present; cetostearyl alcohol polyether-1 to cetostearyl alcohol polyether-10, which are glycol ethers of cetostearyl alcohol (i.e., mixtures of fatty alcohols containing predominantly cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), wherein the numerical designation indicates the number of glycol moieties present; C1-C30 alkyl ethers of the cetyl polyethers, stearyl polyethers and cetyl stearyl polyether compounds just described; polyoxyethylene ethers of branched alcohols such as octyldodecanol, dodecylpentadecanol, hexyldecanol and isostearyl alcohol; polyoxyethylene ethers of behenyl alcohol; PPG ethers, such as PPG-9-stearyl polyether-3, PPG-11 stearyl ether, PPG 8-cetyl polyether-1 and PPG-10 cetyl ether; and mixtures thereof.

Fatty acid and fatty acid derivative

The fatty acids may be linear or branched acids and/or may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include diacids, triacids, and other polyacids, as well as salts of these fatty acids. For example, the fatty acid may optionally include or be selected from lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arachidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the fatty acid is selected from the group consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty acid derivative is not a polyglycerol ester of a fatty acid (c) but includes, for example, fatty acid esters of fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid esters of alcohols, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty acid derivatives include ricinoleic acid, glyceryl monostearate, 12-hydroxystearic acid, ethyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, dimethyl sebacate, PEG-15 cocoate, PPG-15 stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate, and mixtures thereof.

Wax

Non-limiting examples of waxes in this class include, for example, synthetic wax, ozokerite (ceresin), paraffin wax, ozokerite (ozokerite), polyethylene wax, illipe button, beeswax, carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax, lanolin derivatives, candelilla wax, cocoa butter, shellac wax, whale oil (spermaceti), rice bran wax, capok wax, sugar cane wax, montan wax, spermaceti wax (whale wax), bayberry wax, vitex (acacia decurrents flower wax), vegetable waxes (such as sunflower (helianthus annuus) wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax or japan or cork fiber wax or sugar cane wax) or mixtures thereof.

Oil (oil)

Suitable oils include, but are not limited to, natural oils, such as coconut oil; hydrocarbons such as mineral oil and hydrogenated polyisobutene; fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol; esters, such as C ₁₂-C₁₅ alkyl benzoate; diesters, such as propylene glycol dipelargonate; and triesters such as glyceryl tricaprylate. Non-limiting examples of oils that may optionally be included in the cosmetic composition include isotridecyl isononanoate, PEG-4 diheptanoate, isostearyl pivalate, tridecyl pivalate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl ricinoleate, cetyl stearate, cetyl myristate, coco-dicaprylate/decanoate, decyl isostearate, isodecyl oleate, isodecyl pivalate, isohexyl pivalate, octyl palmitate, dioctyl malate, tridecyl octanoate, myristyl myristate, octyldodecanol (octododecanol), or a combination of octyldodecanol, acetyllanolin alcohol, cetyl acetate, isododecanol, polyglycerin-3-diisostearate, castor oil, lanolin and lanolin derivatives, triisocetyl citrate, sorbitan sesquioleate, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, triacetyl glyceryl stearate, triacetyl glyceryl oleate, triglyceride, hydrogenated castor oil, palm oil, tricresyl oil, stearyl oil, tricresyl linoleum, olein, oleyl, stearyl oil, oleyl alcohol, oleyl, or a combination thereof.

Acyl sarcosinates

Non-limiting examples of acyl sarcosinates include sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium caproyl sarcosinate, TEA-cocoyl sarcosinate, ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, di-linoleum-yl glutamate/lauroyl sarcosinate, disodium lauroyl amphodiacetate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, TEA-cocoyl sarcosinate, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, TEA-oleoyl sarcosinate, TEA-palmitoyl sarcosinate, and combinations thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds are selected from fatty esters (e.g. isopropyl myristate, sorbitan isostearate), acyl sarcosinates (e.g. isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate) and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds will vary. Nevertheless, in certain embodiments, the total amount of non-triglycerides and non-aromatic fatty compounds is from about 4 to about 20 weight percent, based on the total weight of the composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of the one or more non-triglycerides and non-aromatic fatty compounds is from about 1 to about 20 wt%, from about 1 to about 15 wt%, from about 1 to about 10 wt%, from about 2 to about 20 wt%, from about 2 to about 15 wt%, from about 2 to about 10 wt%, from about 3 to about 20 wt%, from about 3 to about 15 wt%, from about 3 to about 10 wt%, from about 4 to about 20 wt%, from about 4 to about 15 wt%, or from about 4 to about 10 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

(H) Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure do not require, nor do they necessarily comprise, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol-which is optional. However, in various embodiments, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol is preferably included. Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol is a sugar-protein hybrid made from xylose and can effectively activate the synthesis of GAGs (glycosaminoglycans), promote the production of hyaluronic acid, the synthesis of collagen, the adhesion between dermis and epidermis, the synthesis of epidermis structural components, the regeneration of damaged tissues, and maintain skin elasticity.

The amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, if present, in the composition will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the total amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol is from about 10% to about 40% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol in the composition is from about 10 wt% to about 35 wt%, from about 10 to about 30 wt%, from about 10 to about 25 wt%, from about 10 to about 20 wt%, from about 12 to about 35 wt%, from about 12 to about 30 wt%, from about 12 to about 25 wt%, from about 12 to about 20 wt%, from about 12 to about 18 wt%, from about 14 to about 30 wt%, from about 14 to about 25 wt%, from about 14 to about 20 wt%, or from about 14 to about 18 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

(I) Thickening polymers

In various embodiments, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may optionally comprise one or more thickening polymers. Non-limiting examples of various types of thickening polymers include polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polyethyl acrylates and polyacrylamides, acrylic acid/acryloyltetra copolymers, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers, acrylic acid/stearyl alcohol polyether-20 itaconate copolymers, acrylic acid/cetyl alcohol polyether-20 itaconate copolymers, acrylic acid/amino acrylic acid/C10-30 alkyl PEG-20 itaconate copolymers, acrylic acid/amino acrylic acid ester copolymers, acrylic acid/stearyl alcohol polyether-20 methacrylate copolymers, acrylic acid/behenyl alcohol polyether-25 methacrylate copolymers, acrylic acid/stearyl alcohol polyether-20 methacrylate crosslinked polymers, acrylic acid/behenyl alcohol polyether-25 methacrylate/HEMA crosslinked polymers, acrylic acid/vinyl neodecanoate crosslinked polymers, acrylic acid/vinyl isodecanoate crosslinked polymers, acrylic acid/palmitoleic polyether-25 acrylic acid ester copolymers, acrylic acid/acrylamide methylpropanesulfonic acid copolymers and acrylic acid/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymers, carbomers, hydrophobically modified polyacrylates; hydrophobically modified polyacrylic acid, hydrophobically modified polyacrylamide; hydrophobically modified polyethers (wherein these materials may have hydrophobes which may be selected from cetyl, stearyl, oleoyl, and combinations thereof), acrylamide/ammonium acrylate copolymers; acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80, acryloyldimethyl taurate ammonium/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, acrylate cross-linked polymer-4, acrylate cross-linked polymer-3, acrylate/behenyl alcohol polyether-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylate/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer, acrylate/stearyl alcohol polyether-20 itaconate copolymer, ammonium polyacrylate/isohexadecane/PEG-40 castor oil; carbomer sodium, crosslinked polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth-7, polyacrylate 13/polyisobutylene/polysorbate 20, polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6, polyamide-3, polyquaternium-37, acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate/acrylic acid copolymer, sodium acrylate/acryloyldimethyl taurate, sodium polyacrylate, and mixtures thereof.

Nonionic thickening polymers which may be mentioned include:

(1) Cellulose modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain; examples which may be mentioned include: hydroxyethyl cellulose modified with a group containing at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, wherein alkyl is preferably C8-C22, such as product NATROSOL PLUS GRADE CS (C ₁₆ alkyl) sold by Aqualon corporation, or product BERMOCOLL EHM sold by Berol Nobel corporation; and hydroxyethylcellulose modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenyl ether) sold by Amerchol company,

(2) Hydroxypropyl guar modified with a group comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the products ESAFLOR HM (C ₂₂ alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti, and the products RE210-18 (C ₁₄ alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C ₂₀ alkyl chain) sold by the company Rhone-Poulenc,

(3) Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and fatty chain hydrophobic monomers; examples which may be mentioned include: product ANTARON V or GANEX V216 (vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer) sold by the company I.S.P., product ANTARON V or GANEX V220 (vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer) sold by the company I.S.P.,

(4) Copolymers of C ₁-C₆ -alkyl methacrylates or C ₁-C₆ -alkyl acrylates and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for example oxyethylenated methyl acrylate/octadecyl acrylate copolymers sold under the name ANTIL by Goldschmidt company,

(5) Copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hydrophobic monomers containing at least one fatty chain, for example polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymers,

(6) Polyurethane polyethers comprising hydrophilic and hydrophobic blocks (which may be separate aliphatic and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic segments) of generally polyoxyethylated nature in their chains.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the one or more thickening polymers are selected from the group consisting of polyacrylates (e.g., sodium polyacrylate), hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymers, acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers, polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6, polyacrylamide, acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, and mixtures thereof.

When present, the amount of the one or more thickening polymers will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more thickening polymers is from about 0.01 to about 5 weight percent based on the total weight of the composition. In further embodiments, the one or more thickening polymers are present in a total amount of about 0.01 to about 4 wt%, about 0.01 to about 3 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, about 0.1 to about 4 wt%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, or about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, about 1to about 5 wt%, about 1to about 4 wt%, or about 1to about 3 wt%, about 1.5 to about 5 wt%, about 1.5 to about 4 wt%, or about 1.5 to about 3 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

(J) Water-soluble solvent

The term "water-miscible solvent" is interchangeable with the term "water-miscible solvent" and refers to a compound that is liquid at 25 ℃ and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and that has a solubility in water of at least 50% under these conditions. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90%. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, glycerin, alcohols (e.g., C _1-10 or C _1-4 alcohols), organic solvents, polyols, glycols, and mixtures thereof.

As non-limiting examples of organic solvents, mention may be made of monohydric and polyhydric alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, 4-tert-butylcyclohexyl alcohol and phenethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers, such as monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, such as monomethyl ethers of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, such as monoethyl or monobutyl ethers of diethylene glycol. Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol (propylene glycol), butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol (propylene glycol) and glycerol. The organic solvent may be a volatile or non-volatile compound.

Other non-limiting examples of the water-soluble solvent include alkylene glycols (polyhydric alcohols) such as glycerin, 1,2, 6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1, 4-diol, 2-ethyl-1, 3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol, (octanediol), 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1, 2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, diethylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-1-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, and dipropylene glycol monoisopropyl ether; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1, 3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbitol, sorbitan, glyceryl acetate, glyceryl diacetate, glyceryl triacetate, sulfolane, and mixtures thereof.

Polyhydroxy alcohols are also useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerol, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1, 3-butanediol, 2, 3-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1, 3-butanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2, 4-butanetriol, 1,2, 6-hexanetriol, and mixtures thereof. Polyol compounds may also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol, 3-dimethyl-1, 2-butanediol, 2-diethyl-1, 3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1, 3-propanediol, 2, 4-dimethyl-2, 4-pentanediol, 2, 5-dimethyl-2, 5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1, 2-diol, and 2-ethyl-1, 3-hexanediol, and mixtures thereof.

In some cases, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure comprise one or more glycols and/or one or more alcohols, such as one or more water-soluble solvents selected from the group consisting of butylene glycol, octylethylene glycol (capryloyl glycol), propylene glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof.

The total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents may and will vary, but is typically from about 1 to about 20 weight percent based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some cases, the total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents may be about 1 to about 15 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, about 2 to about 20 wt%, about 2 to about 15 wt%, about 2 to about 10 wt%, about 2 to about 5 wt%, about 5 to about 20 wt%, about 5 to about 15 wt%, or about 5 to about 10 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Miscellaneous ingredients

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may optionally comprise one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Miscellaneous ingredients are ingredients that are compatible with the cosmetic composition and do not destroy or materially affect the basic and novel properties of the cosmetic composition. Miscellaneous ingredients commonly used in cosmetics are known in the art. Non-limiting examples include miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants other than (c) the one or more first emulsifiers selected from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers, (d) the one or more second emulsifiers selected from glycerides having an HLB of about 3 to about 6, and (e) the one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids, preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, plant extracts, uv filters, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearling agents, fillers, colorants, matt agents, other skin-active agents, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkle agents, and the like. Non-limiting examples of various miscellaneous ingredients that may optionally be included (or not) in the cosmetic compositions are provided below.

Miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants

Miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants may optionally be included in the cosmetic composition. The miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants are those other than (c) the one or more first emulsifiers selected from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers, (d) the one or more second emulsifiers selected from glycerides having an HLB of about 3 to about 6, and (e) the one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids. The miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants may be nonionic, anionic, cationic and/or amphoteric/zwitterionic.

Antioxidant agent

Examples of antioxidants include tocopherols (e.g., d-alpha-tocopherol, d-beta-tocopherol, d-gamma-tocopherol, d-delta-tocopherol), tocotrienols (e.g., d-alpha-tocotrienol, d-beta-tocotrienol, d-gamma-tocotrienol, d-delta-tocotrienol), and vitamin E (alpha-tocopheryl acetate). These compounds may be isolated from natural sources, prepared by synthetic means, or mixtures thereof. Vitamin E preparations enriched in tocotrienols can be obtained by fractionating vitamin E preparations to remove a portion of the tocopherols and recovering a more concentrated tocotrienol preparation. Useful tocotrienols are natural products isolated from wheat germ oil, cereal or palm oil, for example using high performance liquid chromatography, or isolated from barley, distillers grains or oats by alcohol extraction and/or molecular distillation. The term "tocotrienol" as used herein includes tocotrienol-rich fractions obtained from these natural products as well as pure compounds. The increased glutathione peroxidase activity protects the skin from oxidative damage.

Vitamin C and derivatives may be used including ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate and the fat-soluble esters tetrahexyldecanol ascorbate and ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl glucosamine, ascorbyl acetate, and the like. In addition, plants containing significant amounts of vitamin C, such as extracts of the fruits of the carbomer (MYRCIARIA DUBIA), the tail of the tiger (acerola), the fruit of the phyllanthus emblica (emblica officinalis), and bioflavonoids from the fruits of the Rosa rugosa and citrus fruits, including water-soluble bioflavonoids such as hesperidin methyl chalcone, may also be used.

Sesame (Sesamum indicum) or sesamol (lignan) may also be added. Sesame and its lignans (sesame-related fibrous compounds) act as antioxidants. The sesamol significantly enhances vitamin E activity.

In addition, carotenoids, especially of the lutein type, are also useful antioxidants that can be used. Lutein-type carotenoids include molecules such as lutein, canthaxanthin (canthaxantin), cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin, and astaxanthin. Lutein protects compounds such as vitamin a, vitamin E and other carotenoids.

Flavonoids (Flavonoids) can also act as antioxidants. In some cases, the flavonoid is flavanone (flavanone) (a derivative of 2, 3-dihydro-2-phenylbenzopyran-4-one). The flavonoid (Flavones) comprises: butin, eriodictyol, hesperetin, hesperidin, homoeriodictyol, isocherokee, naringenin, naringin, pinocembrin, poncirin, cherokee rose element, cherokee rose yellow and Sterubin. The flavonoid may be a flavanonol (flavanonol) (a derivative of 3-hydroxy-2, 3-dihydro-2-phenylbenzopyran-4-one). The flavanol (Flavanols) includes: huperzine, aromadedrin, chrysandroside A, chrysandroside B, xeractinol, astilbin and fogliptin (Fustin). The flavonoid may be a flavonoid (derivative of 2-phenylbenzopyran-4-one). Flavonoid compounds include: apigenin, luteolin, naringenin, chrysin (Chrysin), baicalein, scutellarin, wogonin, and synthetic flavonoids: diosmin (Diosmin) and flavones of methylphenidate (Flavoxate). The flavonoid may be flavonol (flavonol) (a derivative of 3-hydroxy-2-phenylbenzopyran-4-one). Flavonols include: 3-hydroxyflavone, azalea, fisetin, homohaxanthin, gossypin, kaempferide, kaempferol, isorhamnetin, morin, myricetin, naringin, agastache flavonol, quercetin, methylrhamnetin, rhamnetin, azalea glycoside (Azalein), hyperin, isoquercetin, kaempferide, myricetin, quercetin, locust glycoside, rutin, spiradin, murine Li Sudai, huang Baigan, icariin and troxerutin. The flavonoid may be flavan-3-ol (a derivative of 2-phenyl-3, 4-dihydro-2H-benzopyran-3-ol). Flavan-3-ols include: catechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin, epicatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate, epicatechin (Epiafzelechin), feissuerol (Fisetinidol), guibourtinidol, mesquitol, and locust bean alcohol (Robinetinidol). The flavonoid may be flavan-4-ol (a derivative of 2-phenylchroman-4-ol). Flavan-4-ols include: apiforol and Luteoforol. The flavonoid may be isoflavone (derivative of 3-phenylbenzopyran-4-one). The isoflavones include: genistein, daidzein, biochanin a, formononetin and equol metabolites from daidzein (Equol metabolites).

The antioxidant may be a derivative of the anthocyanin (2-phenylbenzopyrylium (2-phenylchromenylium) cation. The anthocyanin comprises: aurantinidin, cyanidin, delphinidin, europinidin, luteolin Huang Ding (Luteolinidin), pelargonidin (Pelargonidin), malvidin (Malvidin), paeoniflorin (Peonidin), morning glory pigment (Petunidin), rose pigment (Rosinidin), and xanthone.

The antioxidant may be dihydrochalcone (a derivative of 1, 3-diphenyl-1-propanone). Dihydrochalcones include: phloretin, dihydrochalcone phloretin, phlorizin, aspartame (ASPALATHIN), naringin dihydrochalcone, neohesperidin dihydrochalcone, and Nothofagin. The mode of action of the invention is not limited, but dihydrochalcones may exert an antioxidant effect by reducing reactive free radicals, such as reactive oxygen and reactive nitrogen species.

The antioxidant may be anthocyanin. Anthocyanin and its derivatives are antioxidants. Anthocyanins comprise a class of flavonoid compounds responsible for the red, violet and blue colors of many fruits, vegetables, grains and flowers, which are naturally occurring water-soluble compounds. In addition, anthocyanins are collagenase inhibitors. Inhibition of collagenase helps to prevent and reduce wrinkles caused by reduction of skin collagen, increase skin elasticity, etc. The anthocyanin can be obtained from any part of a variety of plant sources, if, flowers, stems, leaves, roots, bark or seeds. Those skilled in the art will appreciate that certain parts of the plant may contain higher natural levels of anthocyanins, and thus use these parts to obtain the desired anthocyanins. In some cases, the antioxidant may include one or more beta anthocyanins. Beta anthocyanin, like anthocyanin, can be obtained from natural sources and is an antioxidant.

The antioxidant may be phenylpropanoids (derivatives of cinnamic acid). Phenylpropanoids include: cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, trans-ferulic acid (including its antioxidant pharmacore, 2-dihydroxyacetophenone), 5-hydroxyferulic acid, sinapic acid (SINAPIC ACID), coumarol, coniferyl alcohol, sinapiol, eugenol (Chavicol), safrole, P-coumaric acid, and sinapic acid (SINAPINIC ACID). Without limiting the mode of action of the invention, phenylpropanoids may neutralize free radicals.

The antioxidant may be chalcone (a derivative of 1, 3-diphenyl-2-propen-1-one). Chalcones include: butein, okanin, carthamin, martin (Marein), clomazone (Sophoradin), xanthone (Xanthohumol), flavokvain A, flavokavain B, flavokavin C, and synthetic Safalcone.

The antioxidant may be a curcuminoid. Curcuminoids include: curcumin, demethoxycurcumin, bisdemethoxycurcumin, tetrahydrocurcumin (Tetrahydrocurcumin) and tetrahydrocurcuminoids (Tetrahydrocurcuminoids). Curcumin and tetrahydrocurcuminoids can be derived from the rhizome of turmeric. Tetrahydrocurcumin, a metabolite of curcumin, has been found to be a more potent antioxidant and more stable than curcumin.

The antioxidant may be tannin. Tannins include: tannins, TERFLAVIN B, glucopyranose gallate (Glucogallin), DGALLIC ACID and white quercetin (Quercitannic acid).

The antioxidant may be stilbene (stilbenoid). Stilbenes include: resveratrol, pterostilbene and white-skin-shirt alcohol. Resveratrol may include, but is not limited to, 3,5,4 '-trihydroxy stilbene, 3,4,3',5 '-tetrahydroxy stilbene (piceatannol), 2,3',4,5 '-tetrahydroxy stilbene (resveratrol oxide), 4' -dihydroxystilbene and its alpha and beta glucosides, galactosides and mannoside derivatives.

The antioxidant may be coumarin (a derivative of 2H-benzopyran-2-one). Coumarin includes: 4-hydroxycoumarin, umbelliferone, esculentone, 7-methoxycoumarin (HERNIARIN), auraptene (Auraptene) and biscoumarin.

The antioxidant may be a carotenoid. Carotenoids include: beta-carotene, alpha-carotene, gamma-carotene, beta-cryptoxanthin, lycopene, lutein, and idebenone. Sesame (Sesamum indicum) or sesamol may also be added. Sesame and its lignans (sesame-related fibrous compounds) act as antioxidants. The sesamol significantly enhances vitamin E activity.

The antioxidant may be: xanthone, butylated hydroxytoluene, 2, 6-di-tert-butylphenol, 2, 4-dimethyl-6-tert-butylphenol, gallic acid, eugenol, uric acid, alpha-lipoic acid, ellagic acid, chicoric acid, chlorogenic acid, rosmarinic acid, salicylic acid, acetylcysteine, S-allylcysteine, pyranisoflavone (Barbigerone), myrobalan tannic acid (Chebulagic acid), edaravone (Edaravone), ethoxyquin, glutathione, hydroxytyrosol, idebenone, melatonin, N-acetylserotonin, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, oleocanthal, oleuropein, paradol, piceatannol, probucol, propyl gallate, protocatechuic acid, pyritinol, rutin, secoisolariciresinol (Secoisolariciresinol diglucoside), sesamin, silymarin (Silibinin), cilimalin (SILYMARIN), theaflavin, tea-bis-gallate, thmoquinone, trolox, gallic acid, and antioxidants such as methionine or thioctic acid.

Skin active agent

Non-limiting examples of skin active agents include retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (pyridoxine or chloride), selenium, salicornia europaea; cinnamon extract mixtures, TEA and octanoylglycine, such as 15Sepicontrol A5 TEA from Seppic, especially the mixture of cinnamon, sarcosine and octanoylglycine sold under the trade name Sepicontrol A by Seppic; zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pyrithione), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, and zinc cysteine; derivatives, in particular copper and copper picolinate, such as Cuivridone Solabia; extracts from the following plants: arnica (Arnica montana), cinchona (Cinchona succirubra), flos Caryophylli (Eugenia caryophyllata), flos Lupuli (Humulus lupulus), herba Hyperici perforati (Hypericum perforatum), mentha piperita (MENTHA PIPENTA), herba Rosmarini officinalis (Rosmarinus officinalis), herba Salvia officinalis (Salvia officinalis) and herba Thymus vulgaris (Thymus vulgaris), are all sold, for example, by Maruzen; an extract of spiraea (Spiraea ulmaria), such as sold by Silab under the name Sebonormine; algae kelp (LAMINARIA SACCHARINA) extract, such as sold by Biotechmarine under the name Phlorogine; root extract of sanguisorba officinalis mixture (sanguisorba officinalis/sanguisorba longifolia (Sanguisorba officinalis/Poterium officinale)), rhizome of ginger (Zingiber officinalis) and cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as sold by solasia under the name Sebustop; linseed extract, such as sold under the name Linumine by Lucas Meyer; phellodendron bark extract, such as Phelloodendron extract BG by Maruzen or Oubaku liquid B by Ichimaru Pharcos; argan oil mixture, saw palmetto (saw palmetto) extract and sesame seed extract, such as sold by pentagear under the name Regu SEB; a mixture of willow herb extract, myrobalan extract, saussurea involucrata extract and bio-available zinc (microalgae), such as sold under the name Seborilys GREEN TECH; an extract of pygeum africanum (Pygeum afrianum), such as sold by Euromed under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract; extracts of saw palmetto (Serenoa serrulata) such as those sold under the name Via μ ure Sabal by Actives International and those sold by Euromed company; extracts of plantain blend, berberis thunbergii (Berberis aquifolium) and sodium salicylate, as sold under the name Seboclear Rahn; clove extract, such as sold by Maruzen under the name Clove extract powder; argan nut oil, such as sold under the name Lipofructyl Laboratories Serobiologiques; milk protein filtrate, such as sold by Sederma under the name Normaseb; seaweed kelp genus extract, such as sold under the name LAMINARGHANE by Biotechmarine; oligosaccharide seaweed kelp palm (LAMINARIA DIGITATA), such as sold by Codif under the name Phycosaccharide AC; extracts of sugar cane, such as sold under the name Policosanol by Sabinsa company; sulfonated shale oil, such as sold by Ichthyol under the name Ichtyol Pale; an extract of spiraea ulmaria (Spiraea ulmaria), such as sold by societeLibiol under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire; sebacic acid, in particular sold by Sederma under the name Sebosoft in the form of sodium polyacrylate gel; glucomannans extracted from konjak tubers and modified with alkyl sulfonate chains, such as are sold under the name Biopol Beta by ARCH CHEMICAL; extracts of kuh-seng (Sophora angustifolia), such as those sold under the name Sophora powder or Sophora extract by Bioland; extracts of cinchona Bark succinubra, such as sold by Alban Muller under the name Red Bark HS; extracts of Quillaja saponaria (Quillaja saponaria), such as sold by Alban Muller under the name Panama wood HS; glycine grafted onto the undecene chain, such as sold by SEPPIC under the name Lipacide UG OR; mixtures of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid, such as sold by Sederma under the name ac.net in gel form; phthalimido peroxy caproic acid; tri (C12-C13) citrate, sold by Sasol under the name cosmacol. Trialkyl citrate (C14-C15), sold by Sasol under the name cosmacol. 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, including a mixture of hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid, and 1, 10-decanediol, as sold under the name Acnacidol BG by VINCIENCE; and mixtures thereof.

Decoloring agent

Non-limiting examples of depigmenting agents include alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, gentisic acid, methyl gentisate or methyl homogentisate, biacid, D pantetheine calcium sulfonate (D PANTHETEINE calcium sulphonate), lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, certain compounds derived from plants such as chamomile, bearberry, aloe (vera, ferox, bardensis), mulberry, scutellaria, kiwi fruit (WATER KIWI fruis) sold by Gattefosse (ACTINIDIA CHINENSIS), peony root extracts such as the product sold under the name Liquid Botanpi B by Ichimaru Pharcos, brown sugar (Saccharum officinarum) extracts such as the molasses extract sold under the name Liquid Molasses by Taiyo Kagaku, this list not being exhaustive. Specific depigmenting agents include alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and derivatives, calcium D pantetheine sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, actinidia arguta (ACTINIDIA CHINENSIS) sold by Gattefosse, peony root extracts, such as the product sold under the name Botanpi Liquid B by Ichimaru Pharcos company.

Anti-wrinkle agent

The term "anti-wrinkle agent" refers to a natural or synthetic compound that produces a biological effect upon contact with an area of wrinkled skin, such as increasing the synthesis and/or activity of certain enzymes, which has the effect of reducing the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines. Non-limiting examples of anti-wrinkling agents include: keratolytic agents (desquamating agents), anti-glycation agents, inhibitors of NO synthase, agents for stimulating the synthesis of and/or preventing the degradation of dermal or epidermal macromolecules, agents for stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts and/or keratinocytes or for stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes, reducing agents; muscle relaxant and/or skin relaxant (dermo-decontracting agents), anti-radical agent, and mixtures thereof. Examples of such compounds are: adenosine and its derivatives, and retinoids other than retinol (as described above, e.g., retinol palmitate), ascorbic acid and its derivatives, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; nicotinic acid and its precursors, such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and precursors thereof, such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid, the compound C-glycoside as specifically described in EP-1345919 and derivatives thereof, particularly C- β -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane as specifically described in EP-1345919, plant extracts, including extracts of sea fennel and olive leaves, and plants and hydrolysates thereof, such as rice protein hydrolysates or soy proteins; algae extract, in particular laminaria, bacterial extract, sapogenins, such as diosgenin and extracts of dioscorea plants (in particular wild yam), comprising: an alpha-hydroxy acid; beta-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides and acyl derivatives thereof, in particular the acids {2- [ acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino ] -3-methyl- } acetic acid and lipopeptides sold under the trade names Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000 by SEDERMA company; lycopene, manganese salts and magnesium salts, especially gluconate, and mixtures thereof. In at least one instance, the skin tightening composition comprises an adenosine derivative, such as a non-phosphate derivative of adenosine, particularly such as 2' -deoxyadenosine, 2',3' -adenosine isopropylidene; toyocamycin (toyocamycine), 1-methyladenosine, N-6-methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide, 6-methyl mercaptopurine nucleoside and 6-chloropurine nucleoside. Other derivatives include adenosine receptor agonists such as adenosine phenylisopropyl ("PIA"), 1-methylisoguanosine, N6-Cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N6-Cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N6-phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, MECA, N6-phenethyladenosine, 2-p- (2-carboxyethyl) phenethyl-amino-5 '-N-ethylcarboxamido adenosine (CGS-21680), N-ethylcarboxamido-adenosine (NECA), 5' (N-cyclopropyl) -carboxamido adenosine, DPMA (PD 129.944) and adenyl.

The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients, if present, will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients, if present, is from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In further embodiments, the total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients is from about 0.01 to about 8 wt%, from about 0.01 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.01 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, from about 1 to about 10 wt%, from about 1 to about 8 wt%, from about 1 to about 5 wt%, or from about 1 to about 3 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

As already indicated, a skin active agent may be included as one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Regarding the total amount of skin active agent in the cosmetic composition (if present), the total amount of skin active agent may be from greater than 0 to about 9 wt%, from greater than 0 to about 8 wt%, from greater than 0 to about 7 wt%, from greater than 0 to about 6 wt%, from greater than 0 to about 5 wt%, from greater than 0 to about 4 wt%, from greater than 0 to about 3 wt%, from greater than 0 to about 2wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition; about 10ppm to about 10 wt% (100,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 5 wt% (50,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 2.5 wt% (25,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 1 wt% (10,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 0.5 wt% (5,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 0.3 wt% (3,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 0.2 wt% (2,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 0.1 wt% (1,000 ppm), about 10ppm to 500 ppm. About 0.1 to about 10 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, about 0.1 to about 2.5 wt%, about 0.1 to about 1 wt%, about 0.1 to about 0.5 wt%; about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 6 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, about 1 to about 4 wt%, about 1 to about 3 wt%; about 2 to about 10 wt%, about 2 to about 8 wt%, about 2 to about 6 wt%, about 2 to about 5 wt%, about 2 to about 4 wt%; about 3 to about 10 wt%, about 3 to about 8 wt%, about 3 to about 6 wt%, about 3 to about 5 wt%; about 4 to about 10 wt%, about 4 to about 8 wt%, or about 4 to about 6 wt%.

pH

In certain embodiments, it is preferred that the cosmetic composition has a pH of less than 7.0. In further embodiments, the pH of the cosmetic composition has a pH of about 4.0 to less than 7.0, about 4.5 to less than 7.0, about 5.0 to less than 7.0, about 6.0 to less than 7.0, about 4.0 to about 6.5, about 4.5 to about 6.5, about 5.0 to about 6.0. In various embodiments, the cosmetic composition has a pH change of no greater than ± 1 pH unit, ± 0.5 pH unit, ± 0.3 pH unit, or ± 0.2 pH unit when stored at 4 ℃, 25 ℃, 37 ℃ and/or 45 ℃ for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks, and/or 8 weeks.

Weight ratio of

In various embodiments, it is preferred that the cosmetic composition comprises one or more ratios with respect to components (a) and (c) - (g).

In one embodiment, the weight ratio of the one or more first emulsifiers selected from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers to ceramide NP is from about 1.5:1 to about 8:1 ((c): (a)), preferably from about 1.5:1 to about 5:1, more preferably from about 1.5:1 to about 3:1.

In one embodiment, the weight ratio of the one or more second emulsifiers selected from glycerides having an HLB of about 3 to about 6 to ceramide NP is about 0.8:1 to about 4:1 ((d): (a)), preferably 1:1 to about 3:1, more preferably about 1.2:1 to about 2.5:1.

In one embodiment, the weight ratio of the one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids to ceramide NP is about 0.7:1 to about 4:1 ((e): (a)), preferably about 0.8:1 to about 3:1, more preferably about 0.8:1 to about 2.5:1.

In one embodiment, the weight ratio of the one or more fatty alcohols to ceramide NP is from about 0.7:1 to about 4:1 ((f): (a)), preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 3:1, more preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 2.5:1.

In one embodiment, the weight ratio of the one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds to ceramide NP is from about 4:1 to about 20:1 ((g): (a)), preferably from about 5:1 to 15:1, more preferably from about 6:1 to 10:1.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises the following ratios with respect to components (a) and (c) - (g):

The weight ratio of the one or more first emulsifiers selected from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers to ceramide NP is from about 1.5:1 to about 8:1 ((c): (a)), preferably from about 1.5:1 to about 5:1, more preferably from about 1.5:1 to about 3:1;

the weight ratio of the one or more second emulsifiers selected from glycerides having an HLB of about 3 to about 6 to ceramide NP is about 0.8:1 to about 4:1 ((d): (a)), preferably 1:1 to about 3:1, more preferably about 1.2:1 to about 2.5:1;

The weight ratio of the one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids to ceramide NP is from about 0.7:1 to about 4:1 ((e): (a)), preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 3:1, more preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 2.5:1;

The weight ratio of the one or more fatty alcohols to ceramide NP is from about 0.7:1 to about 4:1 ((f): (a)), preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 3:1, more preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 2.5:1; and

The weight ratio of the one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds to ceramide NP is from about 5:1 to about 20:1 ((g): (a)), preferably from about 5:1 to 15:1, more preferably from about 6:1 to 10:1.

Stability of

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure are stable and the ceramide NP is solubilized. Regarding stability, in certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition does not visually phase separate or form visually observable particles when stored at 4 ℃, 25 ℃, 37 ℃ and/or 45 ℃ for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks.

In another embodiment, the cosmetic composition does not visually phase separate or form visually observable particles for a freeze-thaw test of at least 10 cycles, wherein the freeze-thaw test comprises placing the cosmetic composition in a stabilization chamber and subjecting it to temperature fluctuations at 12 hour intervals, a first interval of 12 hours at-20 ℃, then a second interval of 12 hours at 25 ℃.

In another embodiment, the cosmetic composition does not change in viscosity by more than 20%, 15%, 10% or 5% when stored at 4 ℃, 25 ℃,37 ℃ and/or 45 ℃ for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks.

With respect to ceramide NPs, in various embodiments, at least 80%, 85%, 90%, 95% or 98% of the ceramide NPs remain dissolved when stored at 4 ℃,25 ℃, 37 ℃ and/or 45 ℃ for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks. The lack of visually observable phase separation and particle formation (as described above) also indicates that ceramide NP remains dissolved.

Viscosity of the mixture

Generally, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure have a viscosity of about 5,000 to about 200,000pa.s at 25 ℃ and at a shear rate of 1s ^-1 at 25 ℃. The cosmetic composition may have a shear rate of about 10,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 120,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 120,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 120,000, about 50,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 50,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 150,000pa.s, about 70,000 to about 70,000 pa.s, or about 70,000 to about 70,000 pa.s at 25 ℃.

The viscosity measurements may be made, for example, using a brookfield viscometer/rheometer using a t-bar spindle at speeds of 5, 10, 15, and/or 20 rpm. RVDV-II+Pro viscometers with Rheocalct software can be used for automated instrument control and data acquisition. The test temperature was maintained at 25 ℃ by using a Brookfield TC-502P programmable refrigeration bath (Programmable Refrigerated Bath). The samples were transferred from their original containers to 120 ml glass jars and subsequently tested.

Method of

The present disclosure relates to methods of treating skin. The method comprises applying a cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure, optionally leaving the cosmetic composition on the skin for a period of time. The cosmetic composition is typically applied directly to the skin by hand or by cloth. The skin may optionally be washed or rinsed prior to application. The method of treating skin may be performed once a day or may be performed multiple times. For example, the method of treating skin may be performed once daily, twice daily, once weekly, once every two weeks for a longer period of time, such as about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6 months up to 1 year or more.

In various embodiments, the method hydrates skin and/or provides maintenance of moisture balance, relief/reduction of itching, chronic dryness, scaling and flaking; and improve the natural lipid barrier of the skin, which helps treat dry and aged skin. In a further embodiment, when the composition comprises hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, the method reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improves hyaluronic acid production by stimulating glycosaminoglycan (GAG) synthesis, softens the stratum corneum to relieve cumulative stress on the epidermis and dermis, and the like.

In certain embodiments, the method further comprises mixing the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure with one or more additional cosmetic compositions prior to application to the skin. For example, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may be mixed with one or more additional cosmetic compositions immediately prior to application to the skin, e.g., the mixing may occur within 1 minute, 2 minutes, 5 minutes, 10 minutes, 15 minutes, or 30 minutes prior to application to the skin. In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition may be mixed in an individual's hand and the mixture applied to skin, such as facial skin.

The present disclosure also relates to methods for stabilizing cosmetic compositions containing substantial amounts of ceramide NP. This method includes combining ceramide NPs according to the compositions of the present disclosure. The amount of ceramide NP that can be included is the amount set forth throughout this disclosure.

In various embodiments, the present disclosure relates to methods of stabilizing cosmetic compositions containing high amounts of ceramide NP. In various embodiments, the present disclosure relates to preserving and/or stabilizing ceramide NP in cosmetic compositions. This results in a cosmetic composition containing a large amount of ceramide NPs that is preserved (maintained) and stabilized over time.

Suit

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may be provided in a kit, for example, a kit comprising a separately housed cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure and one or more additional separately housed cosmetic compositions. In one embodiment, the one or more separately housed compositions may be additional compositions according to the present disclosure, or may be different compositions. The cosmetic compositions may be contained separately in different cartridges that are included in the dispensing device/apparatus. In other words, the kit may be a dispensing device/apparatus comprising a plurality of cartridges containing the composition therein. The kit (or device/apparatus) may optionally dispense the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure and separately dispense the one or more separately contained compositions. In various embodiments, these compositions may be dispensed separately or simultaneously, and may optionally be mixed with each other (or not) prior to dispensing. In one embodiment, the various compositions are not mixed with each other prior to dispensing. Useful systems, cartridges and dispensing devices/apparatus are disclosed in U.S. patent nos. 9,968,177 and 9,808,071; U.S. patent application publication Nos. 2021/0236190, 2021/0235849 and 2021/0236863; and U.S. Ser. No. 17/162,555, which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

Description of the embodiments

In certain embodiments, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure comprise or consist of the following components:

(a) From about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, more preferably from about 0.2 to about 2 wt%, and even more preferably from about 0.3 to about 1.5 wt% ceramide NP;

(b) About 50 to about 90 wt%, preferably about 55 to about 80 wt%, more preferably about 55 to about 75 wt% water;

(c) About 0.5 to about 5wt%, more preferably about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, still more preferably about 0.8 to about 3 wt% of one or more first emulsifiers selected from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers, preferably:

-one or more polyglycerol esters of C12-22 saturated, unsaturated and branched fatty acids, such as polyglycerol-4 isostearate, polyglycerol-3 oleate, polyglycerol-2-sesquioleate, triisostearate, diglycerol monooleate, tetraglycerol monooleate and mixtures thereof; and/or

-One or more polyglycerol methyl glucose surfactants, such as polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate, polyglycerol-6 methyl glucose distearate, polyglycerol-10 methyl glucose distearate;

(d) From about 0.5 to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 4%, still more preferably from about 0.8 to about 3%, by weight of one or more second emulsifiers selected from glycerides having an HLB of from about 3 to about 6, preferably from bis-diglyceride polyamide adipate-2, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate lactate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from glyceryl stearate, bis-diglyceride polyamide adipate or mixtures thereof;

(e) About 0.5 to about 5 weight percent, preferably about 0.5 to about 4 weight percent, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3 weight percent of one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids, preferably derived from fatty acids containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms and having 2 to 200 ethylene oxide molecules, more preferably from polyethoxylated stearates such as PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate, and mixtures thereof;

(f) About 0.2 to about 5 wt%, preferably about 0.3 to about 4 wt%, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, of one or more fatty alcohols, preferably having 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably selected from the group consisting of decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, melissa alcohol, and mixtures thereof;

(g) About 4 to about 20 wt%, preferably about 4 to about 15 wt%, more preferably about 5 to about 10 wt%, of one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds, preferably selected from fatty esters (e.g., isopropyl myristate, sorbitan isostearate), acyl sarcosinates, oils, alkanes (paraffins), fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, waxes, lanolin, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from fatty acyl sarcosinates and mixtures thereof;

(h) Optionally, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, wherein preferably, if present, is in an amount of from about 10 to about 40 weight percent, more preferably from about 10 to about 20 weight percent, more preferably from about 12 to about 18 weight percent;

(i) Optionally, one or more thickening polymers, if present, may be in an amount of about 0.01 to about 5 wt%, preferably about 0.1 to about 4 wt%, more preferably about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, such as polyacrylates (e.g., sodium polyacrylate), hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymers, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymers, acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymers, polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6, polyacrylamides, acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymers, and mixtures thereof;

(j) Optionally, one or more water-soluble solvents, where present, may be in an amount of from about 1 to about 20 weight percent, preferably from about 1 to about 15 weight percent, more preferably from about 5 to about 15 weight percent, such as glycerin, C ₂-C₆ monohydric alcohols, polyhydric alcohols (polyhydroxy alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof; and

(K) Optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, wherein if present, may be in an amount of from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 6% by weight, such as miscellaneous ingredients selected from the group consisting of miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants, preservatives, fragrances, pH modifiers, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, plant extracts, uv filters, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescers, fillers, colorants, matte agents, other skin active agents, buffers, and mixtures thereof;

In addition to the various amounts of components (a) and (c) - (g) given above, it is preferred in various embodiments that the cosmetic composition comprises one or more ratios with respect to components (a) and (c) - (g) selected from:

About 1.5:1 to about 8:1, preferably about 1.5:1 to about 5:1, more preferably about 1.5:1 to about 3:1, of the one or more first emulsifiers selected from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers to ceramide NP ((c): a));

About 0.8:1 to about 4:1, preferably 1:1 to about 3:1, more preferably about 1.2:1 to about 2.5:1, of the one or more second emulsifiers selected from glycerides having an HLB of about 3 to about 6 to ceramide NP ((d) to (a));

About 0.7:1 to about 4:1, preferably about 0.8:1 to about 3:1, more preferably about 0.8:1 to about 2.5:1, of the one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids to ceramide NP ((e): a));

About 0.7:1 to about 4:1, preferably about 0.8:1 to about 3:1, more preferably about 0.8:1 to about 2.5:1, of the one or more fatty alcohols to ceramide NP ((f) to (a));

about 4:1 to about 20:1, preferably about 5:1 to 15:1, more preferably about 6:1 to 10:1, of the one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds to ceramide NP ((g): (a)).

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises the following ratios with respect to all components (a) and (c) - (g):

The weight ratio of the one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds to ceramide NP is from about 4:1 to about 20:1 ((g): (a)), preferably from about 5:1 to 15:1, more preferably from about 6:1 to 10:1.

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure are preferably stable, and the ceramide NP is preferably dissolved. Regarding stability, in certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition does not visually phase separate or form visually observable particles when stored at 4 ℃, 25 ℃, 37 ℃ and/or 45 ℃ for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks.

The cosmetic composition preferably has a viscosity of about 5,000 to about 200,000pa.s at 25 ℃ and at a shear rate of 1s ^-1 at 25 ℃. The cosmetic composition may have a shear rate of about 10,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 10,000 to about 120,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 15,000 to about 120,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 150,000pa.s, about 20,000 to about 120,000, about 50,000 to about 200,000pa.s, about 50,000 to about 180,000pa.s, about 150,000pa.s, about 70,000 to about 70,000 pa.s, or about 70,000 to about 70,000 pa.s at 25 ℃.

In certain embodiments, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may comprise or consist of the following components:

(a) About 0.5 to about 5 wt%, preferably about 0.5 to about 3wt% ceramide NP;

(b) About 50 to about 80 wt%, preferably about 60 to 80 wt% water;

(c) About 0.1 to about 5wt%, preferably about 0.5 to about 4wt%, of one or more first emulsifiers selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-3-decanoate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3-methyl glucose distearate, and mixtures thereof;

(d) From about 0.5 to about 5%, preferably from about 0.5 to about 4%, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 3%, by weight of one or more secondary emulsifiers selected from glycerides having an HLB of from about 3 to about 10, such as from the group consisting of bis-diglyceride polyacyl adipate-2, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate lactate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate or a mixture thereof. In at least one instance, the glyceride comprises glyceryl stearate, di-diglyceride polyacyl adipate, glyceryl ricinoleate, or a mixture thereof;

(e) About 0.5 to about 5 wt%, preferably about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, of one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids having 40 to 100 propyleneoxy groups and fatty chains of 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably polyethoxylated stearates, such as PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate, and mixtures thereof;

(f) About 0.2 to about 5wt%, preferably about 0.3 to about 4 wt%, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, of one or more fatty alcohols having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably selected from the group consisting of decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof;

(g) About 4 to about 20 wt%, preferably about 4 to about 15 wt%, more preferably about 5 to about 10wt% of one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds selected from fatty esters, acyl sarcosinates or mixtures thereof;

(j) About 1 to about 15 weight percent of one or more water-soluble solvents selected from the group consisting of glycerin, C ₂-C₆ monohydric alcohols, polyhydric alcohols (polyhydroxy alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof; and

The weight ratio of the one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds to ceramide NP is from about 1:1 to about 20:1 ((g): (a)), preferably from about 2:1 to 20:1, more preferably from about 2:1 to 10:1.

Examples

As various changes could be made in the above methods without departing from the scope of the invention, it is intended that all matter contained in the above description and shown in the examples below shall be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and illustrative only. The amounts of ingredients in the compositions/formulations described below are expressed in weight percent based on the total weight of the composition.

Example 1

(Cosmetic composition)

Example 2

(Stability study)

Studies were performed to determine that ceramide NP is dissolved below 95 ℃. To determine the solubility of ceramide NP, components (a), (c), (d), (e), (f) and (g) were combined and heated to 95℃with continuous stirring. If the mixture becomes transparent below 95 ℃, it initially dissolves. The mixture was then added to the hot aqueous phase (85-90 ℃) (component (b)), homogenized, stirred and allowed to cool. The solubility is monitored by microscopy and macroscopic changes (e.g., gritty feel). Compositions a and B of the present invention solubilize ceramide NP and are therefore labeled "Y" (yes) in the table of example 1 for solubility. Comparative compositions C-1 to C-4 did not dissolve ceramide NP and therefore are labeled "N" (NO) in the table of example 1 for solubility. Since comparative compositions C-1 to C-4 did not dissolve ceramide NP, no further stability test was performed on these compositions.

Physical stability studies were performed on inventive compositions a and B of example 1, phase separation was visually assessed, and particle formation was assessed under a microscope. The composition was analyzed at the time the composition was initially made (T ₀). The composition was again analyzed after 10 days of freeze-thaw testing. For the freeze-thaw test, the composition was placed in a stabilization chamber and subjected to temperature fluctuations at 12 hour intervals. The composition was kept at-20℃for 12 hours. The composition was maintained at 25℃for the next 12 hours. The cycle was repeated 10 times (10 days). The composition of example 1 was evaluated after storage for 4 weeks (1 month) at 4 ℃, 25 ℃, 37 ℃ and 45 ℃ respectively, and again after storage for 8 weeks (2 months) at 4 ℃, 25 ℃, 37 ℃ and 45 ℃ and visual evaluation of phase separation and evaluation of particle formation under a microscope.

The compositions of the present invention are considered stable ("Y") (yes) because they do not visually phase separate and do not form particles.

The foregoing description illustrates and describes the present invention. The disclosure shows and describes only the preferred embodiments, but it is to be understood that the invention is capable of use in various other combinations, modifications, and environments and is capable of changes or modifications within the scope of the inventive concept as expressed herein, commensurate with the above teachings and/or the skill or knowledge of the relevant art. The embodiments described hereinabove are further intended to explain best modes known of the applicant and to enable others skilled in the art to utilize the disclosure in such, or other, embodiments and with the various modifications required by the particular applications or uses thereof. Accordingly, the description is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein.

Definition of the definition

The terms "comprising," "having," "including," and "containing" are used in their open non-limiting sense. The phrase "consisting essentially of" limits the scope of the claims to the specified materials or steps as well as those materials or steps that do not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics of the claimed invention.

The terms "a," "an," and "the" are to be construed as covering both the plural and the singular.

Thus, the term "a mixture thereof" also relates to "mixtures thereof. Throughout this disclosure, if the term "mixture thereof" is used after a list of elements as shown in the following examples, where the letters a-F represent the elements: "one or more elements selected from A, B, C, D, E, F or mixtures thereof". The term "mixture thereof" does not require that the mixture contain A, B, C, D, E and F all (although A, B, C, D, E and F all may be included). Rather, it refers to a mixture that may comprise any two or more of A, B, C, D, E and F. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase "one or more elements selected from A, B, C, D, E, F, and mixtures of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E and F.

Likewise, the term "a salt thereof" also relates to "salts thereof". Thus, if the disclosure refers to "an element selected from A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, or a mixture thereof," it refers to a mixture that may comprise one or more of A, B, C, D and F, may comprise one or more of a salt of a, B, C, D, E, and F, or may comprise any two of a salt of A, B, C, D, E, F, A, B, C, D, E, and F.

Salts mentioned throughout the present disclosure may include salts with counterions such as alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium counterions. This list of counterions is not limiting. Suitable counterions for the components described herein are known in the art.

The expression "one or more" means "at least one" and thus includes the individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

The term "plurality" means "more than one" or "two or more".

"Alkyl" is a straight or branched saturated hydrocarbon group, particularly C ₁-C₈, more particularly C ₁-C₆, preferably C ₁-C₄, such as methyl, ethyl, isopropyl and tert-butyl;

"alkoxy" is alkyl-oxy, wherein alkyl is as described above;

"alkenyl" is a straight or branched chain unsaturated hydrocarbon group, particularly C ₂-C₈, more particularly C ₂-C₆, preferably C ₂-C₄, such as ethenyl, propenyl;

"alkylene" is a straight or branched divalent saturated C ₁-C₈, especially C ₁-C₆, preferably C ₁-C₄ hydrocarbon group, such as methylene, ethylene or propylene.

Some of the various component categories specified for the cosmetic composition may overlap. Where there may be overlap and the composition/product comprises two overlapping elements (or more than two overlapping elements), the overlapping elements do not represent more than one element. As one example, fatty acids may be considered as both "non-triglycerides and non-aromatic fatty emollients" and "surfactants/emulsifiers". If a particular composition/product comprises a non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty emollient component and a surfactant/emulsifier component, a single type of fatty acid may act as the only non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty emollient or surfactant/emulsifier (a single fatty acid does not act as both the non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty emollient component and the surfactant/emulsifier component).

All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise specified.

All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive (inclusive) and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within the range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, and so forth. Furthermore, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within the given range and combinations of sub-ranges between the given ranges. Thus, a range of 1-5 explicitly includes points 1, 2,3, 4, and 5 as well as sub-ranges, such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, and the like; and points 1, 2,3, 4, and 5 include ranges and subranges from 1 to 5, 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, and so forth.

Except in the examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients and/or reaction conditions can be modified by the term "about" whether or not explicitly indicated.

In addition, all numerical values are intended to represent precise values as additional embodiments, whether or not modified by the term "about". For example, an "amount of about 1% may be modified to refer to exactly 1%. As a further example, an "1% amount" may be modified to mean "about 1%". The term "about" is understood to encompass a range of +/-10% of the specified value unless otherwise specified. In some embodiments, however, the term may be defined to encompass narrower ranges, such as +/-1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, and 10% of the specified values.

The terms "surfactant" and "emulsifier" include salts of surfactants and emulsifiers, even if not explicitly stated. In other words, whenever the present disclosure refers to a surfactant or emulsifier, it is intended that the salt is also encompassed in the presence of the salt, even though the description may not specifically mention the salt (or may not mention the salt in each case throughout the disclosure) -for example by using a language such as "a salt thereof" or "salts thereof". Sodium and potassium are common cations that form salts with surfactants and emulsifiers. But additional cations, such as ammonium ions or alkanolammonium ions, such as monoethanolamine or triethanolamine ions, may also form salts of the surfactant.

The term "substantially free" as used herein means that the particular material may be present in minor amounts that do not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics of the claimed invention. For example, less than 2 weight percent of a particular material added to the composition may be present based on the total weight of the composition (provided that an amount of less than 2 weight percent does not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics of the claimed invention). Similarly, a composition that is "substantially free" of the specified material may comprise less than 1.5 wt.%, less than 1 wt.%, less than 0.5 wt.%, less than 0.1 wt.%, less than 0.05 wt.%, or less than 0.01 wt.% of the specified material, or be completely free of the specified material. The term "substantially free" as used herein may also mean that no particular material is added to the composition, but may still be present in the raw materials contained in the composition.

Furthermore, all components listed positively in the present disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims, e.g., the claimed compositions may be "free", "substantially free" of one or more components listed positively in the present disclosure. As an example, the cosmetic composition may optionally comprise silicone, but the composition is preferably free or substantially free of silicone. Silicones are synthetic polymers composed of repeating units of siloxane, elemental silicon, and oxygen in combination with other elements (most commonly carbon and hydrogen). Thus, silicones are also known as polysiloxanes. In some cases, the cosmetic compositions of the present invention may be free or substantially free of dimethicone, amino terminal dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclosiloxanes, silicones, and the like.

All publications and patent applications cited in this specification are herein incorporated by reference for any and all purposes as if each individual publication or patent application were specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by reference. In the event of an inconsistency between the present disclosure and any of the publications or patent applications incorporated by reference herein, the present disclosure controls.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) Ceramide NP;

(b) Water;

(c) One or more first emulsifiers selected from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers;

(e) One or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids;

(f) One or more fatty alcohols; and

(G) One or more non-triglycerides and non-aromatic fatty compounds;

wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, all percentages being by weight, and the composition comprises one or more weight ratios selected from the group consisting of:

A weight ratio ((c) to (a)) of the one or more first emulsifiers selected from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers to ceramide NP of about 1.5:1 to about 8:1;

about 0.8:1 to about 4:1 of the weight ratio ((d) to (a)) of the one or more second emulsifiers to ceramide NP selected from glycerides having an HLB of about 3 to about 6;

from about 0.7:1 to about 4:1 of the weight ratio ((e) to (a)) of the one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids to ceramide NP;

a weight ratio ((f) to (a)) of the one or more fatty alcohols to ceramide NP of about 0.7:1 to about 4:1; and

2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, comprising:

(a) About 0.1 to about 5 weight percent ceramide NP;

(b) Water;

(f) About 0.2 to about 5 weight percent of one or more fatty alcohols; and

(G) About 4 to about 20 weight percent of one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds; and

3. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyglycerol-based emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol-10 stearate, polyglycerol-3-decanoate, polyglycerol-3-diisostearate, polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate and mixtures thereof.

4. The composition of any of the above claims wherein the glyceride having an HLB of about 3 to about 6 is selected from the group consisting of di-diglyceride polyacyl adipate-2, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolinate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or mixtures thereof, in at least one instance the glyceride comprises glyceryl stearate, di-diglyceride polyacyl adipate, glyceryl ricinoleate, or mixtures thereof.

5. The composition of any of the above claims, wherein the ethoxylated fatty acid has 40 to 100 propylene oxide groups and a fatty chain of 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

6. The composition of any of the above claims, wherein the fatty alcohol has 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

8. The composition of any of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds are selected from the group consisting of fatty esters (isopropyl myristate, sorbitan isostearate), acyl sarcosinates (isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate) and mixtures thereof, polyolefms (petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, vegetable and/or vegetable oils, hydrocarbon-based oils and mixtures thereof.

9. The composition of claim 8, wherein the one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds are selected from the group consisting of fatty esters (isopropyl myristate, sorbitan isostearate), acyl sarcosinates (isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate), and mixtures thereof.

10. The composition of any of the preceding claims, further comprising:

(h) Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol.

11. The composition of claim 10, wherein the amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol is from about 10 to about 40 weight percent based on the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition of any of the preceding claims, further comprising:

(i) Preferably, the one or more thickening polymers comprise from about 0.1 to about 5wt% of the one or more thickening polymers.

13. The composition of claim 11, wherein the one or more thickening polymers are selected from the group consisting of polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polyethylacrylates and polyacrylamides, acrylic acid/acryloyltetra copolymers, acrylic acid/steareth-20 itaconate copolymers, acrylic acid/cetyl alcohol polyether-20 itaconate copolymers, acrylic acid/amino acrylic acid ester/C10-30 alkyl PEG-20 itaconate copolymers, acrylic acid/amino acrylic acid ester copolymers, acrylic acid/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymers, acrylic acid/behenyl alcohol polyether-25 methacrylate copolymers, acrylic acid/steareth-20 methacrylate crosslinked polymers, acrylic acid/behenyl alcohol polyether-25 methacrylate/HEMA crosslinked polymers, acrylic acid/vinyl neodecanoate crosslinked polymers, acrylic acid/palmitoleic polyether-25 acrylic acid ester copolymers, acrylic acid/acrylamide methylpropanesulfonic acid copolymers and acrylic acid C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymers, carbomers, hydrophobically modified polyacrylates; hydrophobically modified polyacrylic acid, hydrophobically modified polyacrylamide; hydrophobically modified polyethers (wherein these materials may have hydrophobes which may be selected from cetyl, stearyl, oleoyl, and combinations thereof), acrylamide/ammonium acrylate copolymers; acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80, acryloyldimethyl taurate ammonium/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, acrylate cross-linked polymer-4, acrylate cross-linked polymer-3, acrylate/behenyl alcohol polyether-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylate/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer, acrylate/stearyl alcohol polyether-20 itaconate copolymer, ammonium polyacrylate/isohexadecane/PEG-40 castor oil; carbomer sodium, crosslinked polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth-7, polyacrylate 13/polyisobutylene/polysorbate 20, polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6, polyamide-3, polyquaternium-37, acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate/acrylic acid copolymer, sodium acrylate/acryloyldimethyl taurate, sodium polyacrylate, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from the group consisting of polyacrylates (e.g., sodium polyacrylate), hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymers, acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers, polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6, polyacrylamide, acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, and mixtures thereof.

14. The composition of any of the preceding claims, further comprising:

(j) One or more water-soluble solvents.

15. The composition of claim 14, comprising about 1 to about 20 weight percent of the one or more water-soluble solvents.

16. The composition of claim 14 or 15, wherein the one or more water-soluble solvents are selected from the group consisting of glycerin, C ₂-C₆ monohydric alcohols, polyhydric alcohols (polyhydroxy alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof.

17. The composition of any of the above claims having a pH of about 5 to about 7.

18. The composition of any of the above claims having a viscosity of about 20,000 to about 80,000pa.s at 25 ℃ and at a shear rate of 1s ^-1 at 25 ℃.

19. A cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) About 0.5 to about 5 weight percent ceramide NP;

(b) About 50 to about 80 weight percent water;

(c) About 0.1 to about 5 weight percent of one or more first emulsifiers selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol-10 stearate, polyglycerol-3-decanoate, polyglycerol-3-diisostearate, polyglycerol-3-methyl glucose distearate and mixtures thereof;

(d) From about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent of one or more second emulsifiers selected from glycerides having an HLB of from about 3 to about 10 selected from the group consisting of bis-diglyceride polyamide adipate-2, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate lactate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or mixtures thereof, in at least one instance the glycerides comprise glyceryl stearate, bis-diglyceride polyamide adipate, glyceryl ricinoleate, or mixtures thereof;

(e) About 0.1 to about 5 weight percent of one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids having a fatty chain of 40 to 100 propyleneoxy groups and 8 to 24 carbon atoms;

(f) About 0.2 to about 5 weight percent of one or more fatty alcohols having 8 to 24 carbon atoms;

(g) About 1 to about 10 weight percent of one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds selected from fatty esters, acyl sarcosinates or mixtures thereof; and

(H) About 10 to about 20 weight percent hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol;

(i) Optionally, one or more thickening polymers;

(j) About 0.1 to about 10 weight percent of one or more water-soluble solvents selected from the group consisting of glycerin, C ₂-C₆ monohydric alcohols, polyhydric alcohols (polyhydroxy alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof;

20. The composition of claim 19, comprising the following ratios:

21. A cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) About 0.1 to about 5 weight percent ceramide NP;

(b) Water;

(e) About 0.1 to about 5 weight percent of one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids;

(f) About 0.2 to about 5 weight percent of one or more fatty alcohols; and

(G) About 0.1 to about 15 weight percent of one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds; and

22. A method of stabilizing the cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, the cosmetic composition comprising from about 0.1 to about 5wt% ceramide NP, the method comprising combining:

(a) About 0.1 to about 5 weight percent ceramide NP;

(b) Water;

(f) About 0.2 to about 5 weight percent of one or more fatty alcohols; and

(G) About 0.1 to about 15 weight percent of one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds;

23. A method of treating skin comprising applying the cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-20 to skin.