FR3132213A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING HIGH QUANTITIES OF HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL - Google Patents

Abstract

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING HIGH QUANTITIES OF HYDROXYPROPYL T E TRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL This disclosure relates to stable cosmetic compositions containing high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol. The cosmetic compositions further include water, silicone oils, and crosslinked emulsifying silicone elastomers, and co-emulsifying silicones selected from dimethicone copolyols. Methods for stabilizing cosmetic compositions containing high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol and methods for treating skin with the cosmetic compositions are also disclosed. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING HIGH QUANTITIES OF HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL area of disclosure

The present disclosure relates to stable cosmetic compositions that include high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; and methods for stabilizing the cosmetic composition containing high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol. The present disclosure also describes methods of treating skin with the cosmetic compositions.

SUMMARY

In one aspect, the present disclosure relates to, among other things, cosmetic compositions including a surprisingly high amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol. Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol provides a myriad of cosmetic benefits to the skin, but it is very difficult to incorporate high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol into cosmetic compositions and maintain their stability. The inventors of the present disclosure have developed, among other things, surprisingly stable compositions which include high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol. Due to the high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, the cosmetic compositions provide exceptional cosmetic properties to the skin, e.g., reduction of fine lines and wrinkles, enhancement of hyaluronic acid production by stimulation of the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans (GAG), softening the stratum corneum to relieve cumulative stress on the epidermis and dermis, among others.

In one aspect, the present disclosure relates to, among other things, cosmetic compositions typically in the form of water-in-silicone emulsions. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes:

(a) hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

(b) water;

(d) one or more silicone oils;

(d) one or more cross-linked emulsifying silicone elastomers; And

(e) one or more co-emulsifying silicones chosen from dimethicone copolyols;

wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.

Non-limiting examples of silicone oils include dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclomethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cycloheptasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclotrisiloxane, capryldimethicone, caprylyl trimethicone, caprylyl methicone, cetearylmethicone, hexadecylmethic one, hexylmethicone, laurylmethicone, myristylmethicone, phenylmethicone, stearylmethicone, stearyldimethicone, behenyldimethicone, trifluoropropylmethicone, cetyldimethicone, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, and phenyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of cross-linked emulsifying silicone elastomers include polyoxyalkylenated emulsifying silicone elastomers, polyglycerol emulsifying silicone elastomers and mixtures thereof. Additionally, non-limiting examples of polyoxyalkylenated emulsifying silicone elastomers include dimethicone/PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer, PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-10 lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-12 cross-linked polymers dimethicone, cross-linked polymers of PEG-3 to PEG-32 dimethicones (e.g., dimethicone PEG-10), cross-linked polymer of dimethicone/dimethicone PEG/PPG 15, cross-linked polymer of dimethicone PEG-10, cross-linked polymer of dimethicone PEG-10/ 15, PEG-15 dimethicone cross-linked polymer, polyglycerin-3 dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PPG-20 dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, polyglycerin-3 lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-8 cross-linked polymer dimethicone polysorbate-20, PEG-10 dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-10 lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-15 laurylpolydimethylsiloxy ethyl cross-linked polymer, and mixtures thereof this.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions may include two or more polyoxyalkylenated emulsifying silicone elastomers.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions may include one or more silicone powders. Non-limiting examples are chosen from crosslinked polymer of (dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone), crosslinked polymer of (dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone), crosslinked polymer of (vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone), crosslinked polymer of (vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane), cross-linked polymer of (diphenyl dimethicone/vinyl diphenyl dimethicone/silsesquioxane), cross-linked polymer of polysilicone-1, polysilicone-22, polyalkylsilsesquioxane (e.g., polymethylsilsesquioxane), polysilicone-11, and polyarylsilsesquioxane, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of selected co-emulsifying silicones which are dimethicone copolyols include PEG-8 dimethicone benzoate, PEG-7 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-8 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-10 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-7 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-14 dimethicone, PEG-17 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 dimethicone, PEG/ PPG-17/18 dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, and mixtures thereof. Dimethicone PEG-10 is particularly preferred.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions are part of a kit comprising a cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure and one or more compositions contained separately. In one embodiment, the compositions are received in a device, for example, a device that dispenses the cosmetic composition and one or more separately contained compositions. In one embodiment, the device dispenses the cosmetic composition and the one or more compositions contained separately without mixing them together before dispensing. Even though high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol are incorporated into the cosmetic compositions, the compositions are unique in that they are compatible with other cosmetic compositions, in particular, other cosmetic compositions for treating the skin.

Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to methods for stabilizing large quantities of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol in cosmetic compositions. These methods, as described in the disclosure, include incorporating high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol into the compositions of the present disclosure.

Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to methods of treating skin. The methods include applying to the skin the cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure. In one embodiment, the methods strengthen and/or improve the skin's natural lipid barrier, treat dry and/or aging skin, maintain and/or improve the skin's moisture balance, and/or improve the appearance general skin.

Other features and iterations of the invention are described in more detail below.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

A common problem associated with formulating compositions, particularly compositions comprising multiple components, is ensuring physical stability, chemical stability, solubility and the like. Many additives for food, cosmetics, personal care and household products in which they are incorporated are difficult to stabilize and solubilize, especially when used in large quantities. The consequences of stability and solubility problems are significant. For example, stability issues can result in partial or even complete loss of product integrity, loss of color, bad odor, viscosity changes, etc. Stability and solubility issues may result in an increase or decrease in the amount of the component in question to be applied. When it comes to active ingredients, stability and solubility issues reduce or eliminate activity, and prevent active ingredients from reaching their target in the desired amount.

With age, the outer layer of skin (epidermis) thins, even though the number of cell layers remains unchanged. On the other hand, the number of cells containing pigments (melanocytes) decreases. As a result, the skin appears pale and translucent. Large pigmented spots (age spots, senile lentigo, or lentigo) may appear in areas exposed to the sun. Changes in connective tissue reduce the strength and elasticity of the skin. This phenomenon is known as elastosis. It is more visible in areas exposed to the sun (solar elastosis). Elastose gives skin the tanned, weather-worn appearance found in farmers, sailors, and people who spend a lot of time outdoors. Dehydration increases the risk of skin damage. A poor diet can also have a negative influence on the skin, causing dryness, rashes and swelling.

Human skin acts as a primary barrier between the body and its environment. The lipid matrix of the outermost layer of the skin (epidermis), the stratum corneum (SC), is crucial for this skin barrier function. Two of its functions are (1) to prevent excessive loss of water through the epidermis and (2) to prevent environmental compounds from penetrating the viable layers of the epidermis and dermis and do not provoke an immune response. The composition of the SC lipid matrix is dominated by three classes of lipids: cholesterol, free fatty acids and ceramides. These lipids adopt a highly ordered three-dimensional structure of stacked and densely packed lipid layers (lipid lamellae): the lateral and lamellar lipid organization. How these lipids are ordered depends on the composition of the lipids. A very common skin disease in which the SC lipid barrier is affected is atopic dermatitis (AD).

What is needed, among other things, are compositions that include high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol that reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve the production of hyaluronic acid by stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) , soften the stratum corneum to relieve cumulative stress on the epidermis and dermis, among other benefits. The cosmetic compositions of the present case meet these needs and further reduce/minimize the effects of aging, prevent/reduce sensitivity and inflammation of the skin, and improve the radiance, smoothness and general appearance of the skin, and the like.

In one aspect, the present disclosure seeks, among other things, a stable cosmetic composition that includes high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; and toward methods for stabilizing high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol in cosmetic compositions. In one embodiment, the compositions include:

(a) about 15 to about 55 weight percent hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

(b) about 15 to about 50 weight percent water;

(c) about 5 to about 25% by weight of one or more silicone oils;

(d) about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more cross-linked emulsifying silicone elastomers;

(e) about 0.01 to about 5% by weight of one or more co-emulsifying silicones selected from dimethicone copolyols;

wherein the composition is a water-in-silicone emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.

(a) Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol

Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol is a sugar-protein hybrid made from xylose and can effectively activate the synthesis of GAGs (glycosaminoglycans), promote the production of hyaluronic acid, promote the synthesis of collagen, promote adhesion between the dermis and the epidermis, promote the synthesis of epidermal structural components, promote the regeneration of damaged tissues and maintain the elasticity of the skin.

In one embodiment, the amount of hydroxypropyl tetrapyrantriol in the cosmetic compositions is between approximately 15% by weight and approximately 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the amount of hydroxypropyl tetrapyrantriol in the composition is about 15 to about 55 weight percent, about 15 to about 50 weight percent, about 15 to about 45 weight percent, about 15 to about 40 % by weight, about 15 to about 35% by weight, about 15 to about 30% by weight, about 15 to about 25% by weight, about 20 to about 60% by weight, about 20 to about 55% by weight, about 20 to about 50% by weight, about 20 to about 45% by weight, about 20 to about 40% by weight, about 20 to about 35% by weight, about 20 to about 30% by weight, about 25 to about 60% by weight, about 25 to about 55 weight percent, about 25 to about 50 weight percent, about 25 to about 45 weight percent, about 25 to about 40 weight percent, about 25 to about 35 weight percent, about 30 about 60% by weight, about 30 to about 55% by weight, about 30 to about 50% by weight, about 30 to about 45% by weight, about 30 to about 40% by weight, about 35 to about 55% by weight weight, about 35 to about 60% by weight, about 35 to about 50% by weight, about 35 to about 45% by weight, about 40 to about 60% by weight, about 40 to about 55% by weight, about 40 to about approximately 50% by weight, approximately 45 to approximately 55% by weight, or approximately 50 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

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The amount of water in the cosmetic compositions can and will vary depending on the amount of other components in the cosmetic compositions. However, in various embodiments, the amount of water in the composition may be between about 10 and about 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the amount of water in the cosmetic composition is about 10 to about 55 weight percent, about 10 to about 50 weight percent, about 15 to about 60 weight percent, about 15 to about 55 % by weight, about 15 to about 50% by weight, about 15 to about 45% by weight, about 15 to about 40% by weight, about 15 to about 30% by weight, about 15 to about 25% by weight, about 20 to about 60% by weight, about 20 to about 55% by weight, about 20 to about 50% by weight, about 20 to about 45% by weight, about 20 to about 40% by weight, about 30 to about 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(c) Silicone oils

The cosmetic composition may optionally include one or more silicone oils. Non-limiting examples of silicones include dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone and stearoxytrimethylsilane. In a preferred embodiment, the one or more silicone oils are non-volatile silicone oils. Useful silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendant and/or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenylsilicones , such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates. Other examples of silicone oils that may be mentioned include volatile linear or cyclic silicones, such as those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 x 10 ⁶ m ² /s) and/or containing 2 to 7 atoms of silicon. These silicones optionally include alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, or mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions include one or more silicone oils selected from dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone and amodimethicone; and preferably include dimethicone.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions include one or more amino-functional silicones. Non-limiting examples include amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(C _13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis-amino PEG/PPG-41/3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones, and a mixture thereof. Amodimethicone is a particularly useful amino functionalized silicone.

In a preferred embodiment, the one or more silicone oils are chosen from dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclomethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cycloheptasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclotrisiloxane, capryldimethicone, caprylyl trimethicone, caprylyl methicone, cetearylmethicone , hexadecylmethicone, hexylmethicone , laurylmethicone, myristylmethicone, phenylmethicone, stearylmethicone, stearyldimethicone, behenyldimethicone, trifluoropropylmethicone, cetyldimethicone, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, and phenyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, one of the one or more silicone oils is dimethicone, and the cosmetic compositions optionally include one or more additional silicone oils.

The total amount of silicone oils in the cosmetic compositions can vary, but in some embodiments is from about 5 to about 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more silicone oils is about 5 to about 20 wt.%, about 5 to about 15 wt.%, about 5 to about 12 wt.%, about 6 to about 25% by weight, about 6 to about 20% by weight, about 6 to about 15% by weight or about 6 to about 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(d) E cross-linked emulsifying silicone lastomers

Various types of emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomers are known. They typically contain at least one hydrophilic moiety such as polyoxyalkylenated groups. Typically, these polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers are crosslinked organopolysiloxanes which can be obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and a polyoxyalkylene comprising at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups. In at least one embodiment, the polyoxyalkylenated crosslinked organopolysiloxanes are obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon, and of a polyoxyalkylene comprising at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups , optionally in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

In various embodiments, useful cross-linked emulsifying silicone elastomers include, among others, polyoxyalkylenated emulsifying silicone elastomers (e.g., dimethicone/PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer and PEG-10 dimethicone), emulsifying silicone elastomers polyglycerols, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of polyglycerol silicone elastomers include Shin-Etsu's KSG series, such as KSG-710 which is a cross-linked dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 polymer dispersed in dimethicone; or the cross-linked lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 polymer dispersed in a variety of solvents such as isododecane, dimethicone, triethylhexanoin, sold under the brand names KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830 or KSG-840 from Shin- Etsu. Also suitable are silicones sold by Dow Corning under the brand names 9010 and DC9011.

In one embodiment, crosslinked emulsifying silicone elastomers of linear or branched type can be used. Cross-linked emulsifying silicone elastomers, by way of example but not limitation, include those having the following International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) designations: Bis-Butyldimethicone Polyglyceryl-3; Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone; Bis-butyldimethicone Polyglyceryl-3; Bis-isobutyl PEG/PPG-10/7 Dimethicone copolymer; Bis-PEG/PPG-18/6 Dimethicone; Bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone; Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 Dimethicone; Bis(PPG-7 Undeceneth-21-Dimethicone; Cetyl Dimethicone PEG-7 Acetate; Cetyl PEG-8 Dimethicone; Cetyl PEG/PPG-15/16 Butyl Ether Dimethicone; Cetyl PEG/PPG-15/15 Butyl Ether Dimethicone; Cetyl PEG /PPG-7/3 Dimethicone; Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone; Dimethicone PEG-15 Acetate; Dimethicone PEG-7 Cocoate; Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate; Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate; Dimethicone PEG/PPG-7/4 Phosphate; Dimethicone PEG/PPG-12/4 Phosphate; Dimethicone PEG-7 Undecylenate; Lauryl Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate; Isopolyglyceryl-3 Dimethicone; Isopolyglyceryl-3 Dimethiconol; Isostearyl Carboxyldecyl PEG-8 Dimethicone; Lauryl Methicone PEG-10 Phosphate; Lauryl PEG-8 Dimethicone; Lauryl PEG-10 Methyl Ether Dimethicone; Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 Methicone; PEG-6 Methyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG-7 Methyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG-9 Methyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG-10 Methyl Ether Dimethicone ; PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone ; PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone ; PEG-32 Methyl Ether Dimethicone ; PEG-PEG/PPG-28/21 Acetate Dimethicone ; PEG/PPG-22/22 Butyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-23/23 Butyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-24/18 Butyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-3/10 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-6/11 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-8/14 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-12/16 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-12/18 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-14/4 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-15/5 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-15/15 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-16/2 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-16/8 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-18/12 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-19/19 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-20/6 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-20/29 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-22/23 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-22/24 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-25/25 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-27/27 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-30/10 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-10/3 Oleyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG-8 trisiloxane; Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone; PPG-12 Butyl Ether Dimethicone; Quaternium-17 silicone; TEA-Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate; and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, non-limiting examples of cross-linked emulsifying silicone elastomers that may be included in cosmetic compositions include cross-linked dimethicone/dimethicone PEG/PPG polymer 15; dimethicone cross-linked polymer PEG-10; cross-linked dimethicone polymer PEG-10/15; dimethicone cross-linked polymer PEG-15; cross-linked polymer of dimethicone polyglycerin-3; cross-linked dimethicone polymer PPG-20; lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer PEG-15; lauryl dimethicone polyglycerin-3 cross-linked polymer; PEG-8 cross-linked polymer dimethicone polysorbate-20; PEG-10 dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone cross-linked polymer; cross-linked PEG-10 lauryl dimethicone polymer; cross-linked PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone polymer; PEG-15 laurylpolydimethylsiloxy ethyl cross-linked polymer; and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, mention may be made of cross-linked polymer of dimethicone, cross-linked polymer of cetearyl dimethicone, cross-linked polymer of cetearyldimethicone/vinyldimethicone, cross-linked polymer of dimethicone/vinyldimethicone, cross-linked polymer of dimethicone/polyethylene glycol (PEG)-10, polymer cross-linked dimethicone/PEG-15, cross-linked dimethicone/polyglyceryl-3 polymer, dimethicone/silsesquioxane copolymer, cross-linked dimethicone/phenylvinyl dimethicone polymer, cross-linked vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone polymer, cross-linked dimethicone/bis-isobutyl polypropylene glycol polymer (PPG)-20, PEG-12 dimethicone/PPG-20 cross-linked polymer, PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 cross-linked polymer, and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the one or more cross-linked emulsifying silicone elastomers are chosen from cross-linked dimethicone/PEG-10/15 polymer, cross-linked PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone polymer, cross-linked PEG-10 lauryl dimethicone polymer, cross-linked polymers PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG/PPG 15 dimethicone/dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-10 dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-10/15 dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-15 dimethicone cross-linked polymer, polyglycerin-3 dimethicone cross-linked polymer , PPG-20 dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, polyglycerin-3 lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-8 dimethicone cross-linked polymer polysorbate-20, PEG-10 dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, polymer cross-linked PEG-10 lauryl dimethicone, cross-linked PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone polymer, cross-linked PEG-15 laurylpolydimethylsiloxy ethyl polymer, and mixtures thereof.

The total amount of the one or more cross-linked emulsifying silicone elastomers may vary but, in various embodiments, is from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more cross-linked emulsifying silicone elastomers is about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 4 % by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0 .5 to about 3% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, or about 1 to about 3% by weight, based on weight total cosmetic composition.

(e) Co-emulsifying silicones

The cosmetic compositions may optionally include one or more co-emulsifying silicones, which are different from the cross-linked silicone emulsifying elastomers of (d). For example, in some embodiments, the co-emulsifying silicones are not crosslinked. Non-limiting examples of co-emulsifying silicones include polyglycerol silicones, silicone glycols, silicone copolyols, polyether-modified silicones, and mixtures thereof.

In preferred embodiments, the one or more co-emulsifying silicones are chosen from dimethicone copolyols. The term "dimethicone copolyol" is a general term used for a group of polymers consisting of dimethicone and polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene.

Non-limiting examples of co-emulsifying silicones include dimethicone PEG-7 undecylenate, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, perfluorononylethyl carboxydecal PEG 10, PEG-20/PPG-23 dimethicone, PEG-11 methyl dimethicone ether, bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PPG-12 dimethicone, fluoro PEG-8 dimethicone, PEG 23/PPG 6 dimethicone, PEG 20/PPG 23 dimethicone, PEG 17 dimethicone, PEG5/ PPG3 methicone, bis PEG20 dimethicone, PEG/PPG20/15 dimethicone copolyol and sulfosuccinate mixtures, PEG-8 dimethicone/bitter acid mixtures, PEG-8 dimethicone/fatty acid mixtures, PEG-8 dimethicone, and mixtures of these.

Non-limiting examples of dimethicone copolyols include PEG-8 dimethicone benzoate, PEG-7 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-8 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-10 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-7 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-14 dimethicone, PEG-17 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-17/18 dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, and mixtures thereof. A particularly preferred silicone copolyol is PEG-10 dimethicone.

In a preferred embodiment, the co-emulsifying silicone is chosen from PEG-3 to PEG-32 dimethicones (including but not limited to: PEG-3 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone , PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-14 dimethicone, PEG-17 dimethicone, PEG-32 dimethicone), and mixtures thereof.

The total amount of the one or more optional co-emulsifying silicones, if present, may vary but, in various embodiments, ranges from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more co-emulsifying silicones is about 0.01 to about 4% by weight, about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, about 0.01 to about 2% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, or about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, relative to to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(f) Water-soluble solvents

The term "water-soluble solvent" is interchangeable with the term "water-miscible solvent" and refers to a compound which is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and which has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In one embodiment, the water-soluble solvents have a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80% or 90%. Non-limiting examples of one or more water-soluble solvents are chosen from glycerin, mono-alcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols and a mixture thereof.

As non-limiting examples of organic solvents, mention may be made of monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol. Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol and glycerin. Organic solvents can be volatile or non-volatile compounds.

Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include alkanediols (polyhydric alcohols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2- pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ether diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene mono-t-butyl ether glycol, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-1-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene mono-n-propyl ether glycol, propylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-methyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-ethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether and dipropylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetin, diacetin, triacetin, sulfolane and a mixture thereof.

Polyhydric alcohols are also useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1 ,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and a mixture of these. Polyol compounds can also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol and 2- ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, and a mixture thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure include one or more glycols and/or one or more alcohols, for example, one or more water-soluble solvents selected from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, ethanol , isopropanol, tert-butyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

The total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents can and will vary, but in some embodiments is from about 1 and about 45% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents is about 1 to about 40 wt.%, about 1 to about 35 wt.%, about 1 to about 30 wt.%, about 3 to about 45% by weight, about 3 to about 40% by weight, about 3 to about 35% by weight, about 3 to about 30% by weight, about 3 to about 25% by weight, about 5 to about 45% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 40% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(g) Silicone powders

Silicone powders can be added to cosmetic compositions but typically do not remain in powder form after incorporation into cosmetic compositions. Silicone powders are generally solubilized after their incorporation into cosmetic compositions. Non-limiting examples of silicone powders include cross-linked polymer of (dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone), cross-linked polymer of (dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone), cross-linked polymer of (vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone), cross-linked polymer of (vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane ), cross-linked polymer of (diphenyl dimethicone/vinyl diphenyl dimethicone/silsesquioxane), cross-linked polymer of polysilicone-1, polysilicone-22, polyalkylsilsesquioxane (e.g., polymethylsilsesquioxane). Preferred silicone powders include polyalkylsilsesquioxane (e.g., polymethylsilsesquioxane), vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane, polysilicone-11, and mixtures thereof.

The total amount of the one or more silicone powders in the cosmetic compositions varies but, in some embodiments, is from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more silicone powders is about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2% by weight. weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 4% by weight, about 1 to about 3% by weight, or about 1 to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(h) Miscellaneous ingredients

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may optionally include one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Miscellaneous ingredients are ingredients that are compatible with the cosmetic compositions and do not disrupt or materially affect the basic and novel properties of the cosmetic compositions. The various ingredients commonly used in cosmetics are known in the art. Non-limiting examples include various emulsifiers/surfactants different from (d) cross-linked emulsifying silicone elastomers, preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts , UV filtering agents, proteins, hydrolysates and/or protein isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescent agents, fillers, dyes, mattifying agents, other active agents for the skin, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkle agents, etc. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure include one or more active agents for the skin, in particular, madecassoside. Non-limiting examples of several miscellaneous ingredients that may optionally be included (or excluded) from cosmetic compositions are provided below.

E various mulsifiers/surfactants

Various emulsifiers/surfactants may optionally be included in the cosmetic compositions. Miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants are those that are different from the emulsifying cross-linked silicone elastomers of (d). The various emulsifiers/surfactants may be nonionic, anionic, cationic and/or amphoteric/zwitterionic.

Antioxidants

Examples of antioxidants include tocopherols (e.g. d-α-tocopherol, d-β-tocopherol, d-γ-tocopherol, d-delta-tocopherol), tocotrienols (e.g. d-α-tocotrienol, d-β -tocotrienol, d-γ-tocotrienol, d-delta-tocotrienol,) and vitamin E (α-tocopherol acetate). These compounds may be isolated from natural sources, prepared by synthetic means, or mixtures thereof. Vitamin E preparations enriched with tocotrienol can be obtained by fractionating vitamin E preparations to remove a portion of the tocopherols and recover a preparation more highly concentrated in tocotrienol. Useful tocotrienols are natural products isolated, for example, from wheat germ oil, grain oil or palm oil using high performance liquid chromatography, or isolated by alcohol extraction and/or molecular distillation at from barley, brewing grain or oats. As used herein, the term “tocotrienols” includes the tocotrienol-rich fractions obtained from these natural products as well as the pure compounds. Increasing glutathione peroxidase activity protects the skin from oxidative damage.

Vitamin C and its derivatives may be used, including ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate and fat-soluble esters of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, glucosamine ascorbate, acetate ascorbyl, etc. In addition, plant extracts containing a high amount of vitamin C, such as camu-camu berry ( Myrciaria dubia ), acerola, Emblica officinalis , and bioflavonoids from rosehip and citrus fruits can be used, including Water-soluble bioflavonoids such as hesperidin methyl chalcone.

Sesame ( Sesamum indicum ) or sesame lignan can also be added. Sesame and its lignans (the fibrous compounds associated with sesame) act as antioxidants. Sesame seed lignans significantly increase the activity of vitamin E.

Additionally, carotenoids, particularly the xanthophyll type, are also useful antioxidants that can be used. Xanthophyll-type carotenoids include molecules such as lutein, canthaxantin, cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin, and astaxanthin. Xanthophylls protect compounds, such as vitamin A, vitamin E and other carotenoids.

Flavonoids can also function as antioxidants. In some cases, the flavonoid is a flavanone (derived from 2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavones include: butin, eriodictyol, hesperetin, hesperidin, homoeriodictyol, isosakuranetin, naringenin, naringin, pinocembrin, poncirin, sakuranetin, sakuranin, and sterubin. The flavonoid may be a flavanonol (derived from 3-hydroxy-2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavanols include: taxifolin, aromadedrin, chrysandroside A, chrysandroside B, xeractinol, astilbin, and fustin. The flavonoid may be a flavone (derived from 2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavones include: apigenin, luteolin, tangerin, chrysin, baicalein, scutellarein, wogonin, synthetic flavones: diosmin, and flavoxate. The flavonoid may be a flavonol (3-hydroxy-2-phenylchromen-4-one derivative). Flavonols include: 3-hydroxyflavone, azaleatin, fisetin, galangin, gossypetin, kaempferide, kaempferol, isorhamnetin, morin, myricetin, natsudaidain, pachypodol, quercetin, rhamnazine, rhamnetin, azalein, hyperoside, isoquercitin, kaempferitrin, myricitrin, quercitrin, robinin, rutin, spiraeoside, xanthorhamnin, amurensin, icariin, and troxerutin. The flavonoid may be a flavan-3-ol (2-phenyl-3,4-dihydro-2H-chromen-3-ol derivatives). Flavan-3-ols include: catechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin, epicatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate, epiafzelechin, fisetinidol, guibourtinidol, mesquitol, and robinetinidol. The flavonoid may be a flavan-4-ol (derived from 2-phenylchroman-4-ol). Flavan-4-ols include: apiforol and luteoforol. The flavonoid may be an isoflavone (3-phenylchromen-4-one derivative). Isoflavones include: genistein, daidzein, biochanin A, formononetin, and the daidzein metabolite Equol.

The antioxidant may be an anthocyanidin (derived from the 2-phenylchromenylium cation). Anthocyanidins include: aurantinidin, cyanidin, delphinidin, europinidin, luteolinidin, pelargonidin, malvidin, peonidin, petunidin, rosinidin, and xanthone.

The antioxidant may be a dihydrochalcone (derived from 1,3-diphenyl-1-propanone). Dihydrochalcones include: phloretin, phloretin dihydrochalcone or phloridzin, aspalathin, naringin dihydrochalcone, neohesperidin dihydrochalcone, and nothofagin. Without limiting the mode of action of the invention, dihydrochalcones can exert an antioxidant effect by reducing reactive free radicals, such as reactive oxygen and reactive nitrogen species.

The antioxidant may be an anthocyanin. Anthocyanins and their derivatives are antioxidants. Anthocyanins encompass a class of flavonoid compounds that are naturally occurring water-soluble compounds responsible for the red, purple, and blue colors of many fruits, vegetables, grains, and flowers. Additionally, anthocyanins are collagenase inhibitors. Inhibition of collagenase helps prevent and reduce wrinkles, increase skin elasticity, etc. which are caused by a reduction in collagen in the skin. Anthocyanins can be obtained from any portion of various plant sources, such as fruit, flower, stem, leaves, root, bark or seeds. One skilled in the art will understand that certain portions of the plant may contain higher natural levels of anthocyanins and, therefore, these portions are used to obtain the desired anthocyanins. In some cases, antioxidants may include one or more betacyanins. Betacyanins, like anthocyanins, can be obtained from natural sources and are antioxidants.

The antioxidant may be a phenylpropanoid (cinnamic acid derivatives). Phenylpropanoids include: cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, trans-ferulic acid (including its antioxidant pharmacore, 2,6-dihydroxyacetophenome), 5-hydroxyferulic acid, sinapic acid, coumaryl alcohol, coniferyl alcohol, sinapyl alcohol, eugenol, chavicol, safrole, P-coumaric acid and sinapinic acid. Without limiting the mode of action of the invention, phenylpropanoids can neutralize free radicals.

The antioxidant may be a chalcone (derived from 1,3-diphenyl-2-propen-1-one). Chalcones include: butein, okanine, carthamine, marein, sophoradine, xanthohumol, flavokavain A, flavokavain B, flavokavain C, and synthetic sofalcone.

The antioxidant may be a curcuminoid. Curcuminoids include: curcumin, desmethoxycurcumin, bis-desmethoxycurcumin, tetrahydrocurcumin and tetrahydrocurcuminoids. Curcumin and tetrahydrocurcuminoids can be derived from the rhizomes of Curcuma longa . Tetrahydrocurcumin, a metabolite of curcumin, has been shown to be a more powerful and stable antioxidant than curcumin.

The antioxidant may be a tannin. Tannins include: tannin, terflavin B, glucogallin, D-gallic acid and quercitannic acid.

The antioxidant may be a stilbenoid. Stilbenoids include: resveratrol, pterostilbene, and piceatannol. Resveratrol may include, but is not limited to, 3,5,4'-trihydroxystilbene, 3,4,3',5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (piceatannol), 2,3',4,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (oxyresveratrol), 4,4'-dihydroxystilbene and alpha and beta glucoside, galactoside and mannoside derivatives thereof.

The antioxidant may be a coumarin (2H-chromen-2-one derivatives). Coumarins include: 4-hydroxycoumarin, umbelliferone, aesculetin, herniarin, auraptene, and dicoumarol.

The antioxidant may be a carotenoid. Carotenoids include: beta-carotene, alpha-carotene, gamma-carotene, beta-cryptoxanthin, lycopene, lutein and idebenone. Sesame ( Sesamum indicum ) or sesame lignans can also be added. Sesame and its lignans (the fibrous compounds associated with sesame) act as antioxidants. Sesame seed lignans significantly increase the activity of vitamin E.

The antioxidant may be: xanthone, butylated hydroxytoluene, 2,6-di-tert-butylphenol, 2,4-dimethyl-6-tert-butylphenol, gallic acid, eugenol, uric acid, alpha-lipoic acid, ellagic acid, Chicory acid, chlorogenic acid, rosmaric acid, salicylic acid, acetylcysteine, s-onlyl cysteine, barbigerone, chébubulagic acid, édaravone, ethoxyquine, glutathione, hydroxytyrosol, idebenone, melatonin, n-acetylserotonin, Anthal, Oleuropéine, Paradol, Picéatannol , probucol, propyl gallate, protocatechuic acid, pyritinol, rutin, secoisolariciresinol diglucoside, sesamin, sesamol, silibinin, silymarin, theaflavin, theaflavin digallate, thymoquinone, trolox, tyrosol, polyunsaturated fatty acids, and sulfur-based antioxidants such as methionine or lipoic acid.

Active agents for the skin

Non-limiting examples of active agents for the skin include madecassoside, retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (pyridoxine or) chloride, selenium, samphire - the mixture of cinnamon, tea and octanoylglycine extracts such as Sepicontrol A5 TEA from Seppic - the mixture of cinnamon, sarcosine and octanoylglycine marketed in particular by Seppic under the name Sepicontrol A5 -- zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidonecarboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate zinc, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate; -- derived in particular from copper and copper pidolate in the form of Cuivridone Solabia -- plant extracts of Arnica montana , Cinchona succirubra , Eugenia caryophyllata , Humulus lupulus , Hypericum perforatum , Mentha pipe ri ta , Rosmarinus officinalis , Salvia officinalis and Thymus vulgaris , all marketed for example by Maruzen -- extracts of meadowsweet ( Spiraea ulmaria ), such as that sold under the name Sebonormine by Silab -- extracts of the algae Laminaria saccharina , such as that sold under the name Phlorogine by Biotechmarine -- root extracts from mixtures of burnet ( Sanguisorba officinalis / Poterium officinale ), ginger rhizomes ( Zingiber officinalis ) and cinnamon bark ( Cinnamomum cassia ), such as those sold under the name Sebustop by Solabia -- extracts flax seeds such as those sold under the name Linumine by Lucas Meyer -- Phellodendron extracts such as those sold under the name Phellodendron extract BG by Maruzen or Oubaku liquid B by Ichimaru Pharcos -- argan oil blends extract of Serenoa serrulata (dwarf palm) and sesame seeds such as that sold under the name Regu SEB by Pentapharm -- mixtures of extracts of willowherb, Terminalia chebula , nasturtium and bioavailable zinc (microalgae) , such as that sold under the name Seborilys Green Tech; -- extracts of Pygeum afrianum such as those sold under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract by Euromed -- extracts of Serenoa serrulata such as those sold under the name Viapure Sabal by Actives International, and those sold by the company Euromed -- extracts of mixtures of plantain, Berberis aquifolium and sodium salicylate such as those sold under the name Seboclear Rahn -- clove extract such as that sold under the name Clove extract powder by Maruzen -- argan oil such than that sold under the name Lipofructyl Laboratories Serobiologique; -- lactic protein filtrates, such as that sold under the name Normaseb by Sederma - extracts of kelp algae, such as that sold under the name Laminarghane by Biotechmarine -- oligosaccharides from the algae Laminaria digitata , such as those sold under the name Phycosaccharide AC by the company Codif -- sugar cane extracts such as those sold under the name Policosanol by the company Sabinsa, sulfonated shale oil, such as that sold under the name Ichtyol Pale by Ichthyol -- extracts of meadowsweet ( Spiraea ulmaria ) such as those sold under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire by the company Libiol -- sebacic acid, notably sold in the form of sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft by Sederma -- glucomannans extracts from the konjac tuber and modified by alkylsulfonate chains such as that sold under the name Biopol Beta by Arch Chemical - extracts of Sophora angustifolia , such as those sold under the name Sophora powder or Sophora extract by Bioland - extracts of bark of cinchona succirubra such as those sold under the name Red Bark HS by Alban Muller -- extracts of Quillaja saponaria such as those sold under the name Panama wood HS by Alban Muller -- glycine grafted on an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by SEPPIC - the mixture of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid, such as that sold in gel form under the name AC. Net by Sederma; —phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid – tri citrate (C ₁₂ -C ₁₃ ) sold under the name COSMACOL.RTM ECI by Sasol; trialkyl citrate (C ₁₄ -C ₁₅ ) sold under the name COSMACOL.RTM. ECL by Sasol; 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, including mixtures of hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid and 1,10-decandiol such as that sold under the name Acnacidol BG by Vincience and mixtures thereof.

Depigmenting agents

Non-limiting examples of depigmenting agents include alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol and derivatives thereof, kojic acid, resorcinol and derivatives thereof, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, gentisic acid, homogentisic acid, gentisate or methyl homogentisate, dioic acid, D pantheteine calcium sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, certain compounds derived from plants such as chamomile, bearberry, the aloe family (vera, ferox, bardensis), mulberry, skullcap, a water kiwi ( Actinidia chinensis ) marketed by Gattefosse, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa root, such as that sold by Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Liquid Botanpi Be an extract of brown sugar (Saccharum officinarum) such as molasses extract marketed by Taiyo Kagaku under the name Liquid Molasses, without this list being exhaustive. Among the particular depigmenting agents, we can cite alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, D panthetein calcium sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, kiwi water ( Actinidia chinensis ) marketed by Gattefosse , a root extract of Paeonia suffruticosa , such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B.

Anti-wrinkle agent

The term "anti-wrinkle agent" refers to a natural or synthetic compound producing a biological effect, such as increasing the synthesis and/or activity of certain enzymes, when brought into contact with an area of wrinkled skin, which has the effect of reducing the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines. Non-limiting examples of anti-wrinkle agents include: desquamating agents, anti-glycation agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or preventing their degradation, agents for stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts and/or keratinocytes, or to stimulate the differentiation of keratinocytes; muscle relaxants and/or dermo-relaxants, free radical scavengers, and mixtures thereof. Examples of such compounds are: adenosine and its derivatives and retinoids other than retinol (as discussed above, such as retinol palmitate), ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; nicotinic acid and precursors thereof such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and its precursors such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid, C-glycoside compounds and their derivatives as described in particular in document EP-1 345 919, in particular C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2 -hydroxy-propane as described in particular in document EP-1 345 919, extracts of plants including marine fennel and extracts of olive leaves, as well as plants and hydrolysates thereof such as protein hydrolysates of rice or soy protein; extracts of algae and in particular of kelp, bacterial extracts, sapogenins such as diosgenin and extracts of Dioscorea plants, in particular wild yam, comprising: a-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and oligopeptides and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic pseudodipeptides and acylated derivatives thereof, in particular {2-[acetyl-(3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl)-amino]-3-methyl-}acetic acid and commercially available lipopeptides by the company under the trade names SEDERMA Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000; lycopene, manganese salts and magnesium salts, including gluconates, and mixtures thereof. In at least one case, the skin tightening composition includes adenosine derivatives, such as non-phosphated adenosine derivatives, such as in particular 2'-deoxyadenosine, 2',3'-adenosine isopropoylidene; toyocamycin, 1-methyladenosine, N-6-methyladenosine; Adenosine N-oxide, 6-methylmercaptopurine riboside, and 6-chloropurine riboside. Other derivatives include adenosine receptor agonists such as phenylisopropyl adenosine ("PIA"), 1-methylisoguanosine, N6-cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N6-cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N6-phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, MECA, N6-phenethyladenosine, 2-p-(2-carboxy-ethyl) phenethyl-amino-5'-N-ethylcarboxamido adenosine (CGS-21680), N-ethylcarboxamido- adenosine (NECA), 5'(N-cyclopropyl)-carboxamidoadenosine, DPMA (PD 129.944) and metrifudil.

Various ingredients may be included in the cosmetic composition, for example, in an amount of about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients may be from about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, or about 1 to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

As already noted, the skin active agents may be included in one or more of the various ingredients. With respect to the total amount of skin-active agents in the cosmetic compositions, if present, the total amount of skin-active agents may be greater than zero to about 9% by weight, greater than zero at about 8% by weight, greater than zero at about 7% by weight, greater than zero at about 6% by weight, greater than zero at about 5% by weight, greater than zero at about 4% by weight, greater than zero at about 3% by weight, greater than zero at about 2% by weight; about 10 ppm to about 10 wt.% (100,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 5 wt.% (50,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 2.5 wt.% (25,000 ppm), about 10 ppm at about 1 wt% (10,000 ppm), about 10 ppm at about 0.5 wt% (5,000 ppm), about 10 ppm at about 0.3 wt% (3,000 ppm), about 10 ppm at about 0.2 wt% (2000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 0.1 wt% (1000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 500 ppm, about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2.5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 1% by weight, about 0.1 to about 0.5% by weight; about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 6% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 4% by weight, about 1 to about 3 % in weight ; about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 8% by weight, about 2 to about 6% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight, about 2 to about 4% by weight; about 3 to about 10% by weight, about 3 to about 8% by weight, about 3 to about 6% by weight, about 3 to about 5% by weight; about 4 to about 10% by weight, about 4 to about 8% by weight, or about 4 to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may optionally include one or more phenolic or polyphenolic active compounds, for example baicalin. However, in one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions may be free or essentially free of phenolic or polyphenolic active compounds, in particular baicalin.

(i) Fatty compounds

The cosmetic compositions may optionally include one or more fatty compounds. The term “fatty compounds” is interchangeable with “fat”. Fatty compounds are known as compounds that are not soluble (or only poorly soluble) in water; they are hydrophilic and are often solubilized in organic solvents. They include materials such as oils, fats, waxes, hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty esters, etc. Silicones are not considered fatty compounds according to this disclosure. Non-limiting examples of useful fatty compounds include oils, waxes, alkanes (paraffins), fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty esters, triglyceride compounds, lanolin, hydrocarbons, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof. Fatty compounds are described by the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists, for example, in Cosmetic Raw Material Analysis and Quality, Volume I: Hydrocarbons, Glycerides, Waxes and Other Esters (Redwood Books, 1994), which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds include oils, mineral oils, alkanes (paraffins), fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, fatty alcohol esters, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, waxes, triglyceride compounds , lanolin and a mixture thereof.

Fatty alcohol derivatives

The fatty compounds may include one or more fatty alcohol derivatives, which are different from fatty alcohols (component (d)). Fatty alcohol derivatives include fatty esters derived from one or more fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohol derivatives also include alkoxylated fatty alcohols, for example, having about 1 to about 100 moles of an alkylene oxide per mole of alkoxylated fatty alcohol. For example, alkoxylated fatty alcohols may be alkoxylated with about 1 to about 80 moles, about 2 to about 50, about 5 to about 45 moles, about 10 to about 40 moles, or 15 to about 35 moles, including all ranges and intermediate subranges, of one alkylene oxide per mole of alkoxylated fatty alcohol.

Examples of alkoxylated fatty alcohols include steareth (for example, steareth-2, steareth-20 and steareth-21), laureth (for example, laureth-4 and laureth-12), ceteth (for example, ceteth-10 and ceteareth-20) and ceteareth (for example, ceteareth-2, ceteareth-10 and ceteareth-20). In at least one case, the one or more alkoxylated fatty alcohols include steareth-20. In some cases, the one or more alkoxylated fatty alcohols may be exclusively steareth-20.

Fatty alcohol derivatives which may optionally be suitable include methyl stearyl ether; 2-ethylhexyl dodecyl ether; stearyl acetate; cetyl propionate; the series of ceteth compounds, such as ceteth-1 to ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, in which the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; the series of steareth compounds such as steareth-1 to 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of steareth alcohol, in which the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; ceteareth-1 to ceteareth-10, which are the ethylene glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol, that is to say a mixture of fatty alcohols containing mainly cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, wherein the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl ethers of ceteth, steareth and ceteareth compounds described above; polyoxyethylene ethers of branched alcohols such as octyldodecyl alcohol, dodecylpentadecyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol; polyoxyethylene ethers of behenyl alcohol; PPG ethers such as PPG-9-steareth-3, PPG-11 stearyl ether, PPG-8-ceteth-1 and PPG-10 cetyl ether; and a mixture of these.

 

Fatty acids

In some cases, the fatty compounds may be selected from fatty acids, fatty acid derivatives, fatty acid esters, hydroxyl-substituted fatty acids and alkoxylated fatty acids. The fatty acids may be straight or branched chain acids and/or may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include diacids, triacids and other multiple acids as well as salts of these fatty acids. For example, the fatty acid may optionally include or be selected from lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the fatty acids are selected from the group consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid and a mixture thereof.

Non-limiting examples of polyglycerol esters of fatty acids include those of the following formula:

wherein the average value of n is approximately 3 and R ¹ , R ² and R ³ may each independently be a fatty acid moiety or hydrogen, provided that at least one of R ¹ , R ² and R ³ is a fatty acid fraction. For example, R ¹ , R ² and R ³ can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and have a length of C ₁ -C ₄₀ , C ₁ -C ₃₀ , C ₁ -C ₂₅ , or C ₁ -C ₂₀ , C ₁ -C ₁₆ , or C ₁ -C ₁₀ .

Fatty acid derivatives are defined herein to include fatty acid esters of fatty alcohols as defined above, fatty acid esters of fatty alcohol derivatives as defined above when these derivatives of Fatty alcohols have an esterifiable hydroxyl group, fatty acid esters of alcohols other than fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol derivatives described above, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, and a mixture thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty acid derivatives include ricinoleic acid, glycerol monostearate, 12-hydroxystearic acid, ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, polyglyceryl stearate, sebacate dimethyl cocoate, PEG-15 cocoate, PPG-15 stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl Sadearate, PEG-8 laurate, PPG-2 isostearate, PPG-9 laurate, and a mixture of these -this. Glycerol monostearate, 12-hydroxystearic acid and a mixture thereof are preferred for use herein.

Fatty alcohols

The term “fatty alcohol” means an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), and comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxyalkylenated (in particular neither oxyethylenated nor oxypropylenated) nor glycerol. The fatty alcohols can be represented by: R-OH, where R denotes a saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl), linear or branched group, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The fatty alcohol(s) can be liquid or solid. In certain cases, it is preferable for the cosmetic compositions to include at least one solid fatty alcohol. Usable solid fatty alcohols include those which are solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (25°C, 780 mmHg), and which are insoluble in water, i.e. they have solubility in water. water less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25°C, 1 atm.

Solid fatty alcohols can be represented by: R-OH, where R denotes a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, from more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

Non-limiting examples of useful fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol or lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol); myristic or myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol); cerylic alcohol (1-hexacosanol); montanylic alcohol (1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol), and mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the one or more fatty alcohols have 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Specific non-limiting examples include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristic or myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition includes one or more solid fatty alcohols, for example chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, preferably cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures of these -this.

Liquid fatty alcohols, in particular those in C ₁₀ -C ₃₄ , preferably have branched carbon chains and/or have one or more, preferably 1 to 3, double bonds. They are preferably branched and/or unsaturated (C=C double bond) and contain 12 to 40 carbon atoms.

Liquid fatty alcohols can be represented by: R-OH, where R denotes a C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ branched alkyl group or an alkenyl group (comprising at least one C=C double bond) at C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ , R being optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is a branched saturated alcohol. Preferably, R does not contain a hydroxyl group. These alcohols include oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenylic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl- 1-cetanol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is 2-octyl-1-dodecanol.

In certain cases, the cosmetic compositions include one or more fatty alcohols chosen from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the cosmetic compositions preferably include cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.

Raincoats

The fatty compounds may, in certain cases, include or be chosen from one or more waxes. Non-limiting examples of waxes in this category include, for example, synthetic wax, ceresin, paraffin, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, illipé butter, beeswax, carnauba, microcrystalline wax, lanolin, lanolin derivatives, candelilla, butter cocoa, shellac wax, spermaceti, bran wax, kapok wax, sugar cane wax, montan wax, whale wax, berry wax, acacia flowers wax, vegetable waxes (such as sunflower seed ( Helianthus annuus ), carnauba, candelilla, ouricury or Japanese waxes or cork fiber or sugar cane waxes), or a mixture of these.

Oils

In some cases, the fatty compounds may include or be selected from one or more oils. Suitable oils include, but are not limited to, natural oils, such as coconut oil; hydrocarbons, such as mineral oil and hydrogenated polyisobutene; fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol; esters, such as C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate; diesters, such as propylene dipelarganate; and triesters, such as glyceryl trioctanoate. Non-limiting examples of oils that may optionally be included in the cosmetic compositions include isotridecyl isononanoate, PEG-4 diheptanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl ricinoleate , cetyl stearate, cetyl myristate, coco caprate/dicaprylate, decyl isostearate, isodecyl oleate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isohexyl neopentanoate, octyl palmitate, dioctyl malate, tridecyl octanoate, myristyl myristate , octododecanol, or combinations of octyldodecanol, acetylated lanolin alcohol, cetyl acetate, isododecanol, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, castor oil, lanolin and lanolin derivatives, triisocetyl citrate, sorbitan sesquioleate, C ₁₀ -C triglycerides ₁₈ , caprylic/capric triglycerides, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, glyceryl triacetyl hydroxystearate, glyceryl triacetyl ricinoleate, glyceryl trioctanoate, hydrogenated castor oil, flaxseed oil, mink oil, 'illipé, palm oil, olive butter, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, tallow, tricaprin, trihydroxystearin, triisostearin, trilaurine, trilinolein, trimyristin, triolein, tripalmitin, Trèsstearin, walnut oil, coconut oil wheat germ, cholesterol, or combinations thereof.

In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include one or more fatty compounds chosen from fatty esters (such as isononyl isononanoate), polyolefins (such as petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene , mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, plant and/or vegetable oil, hydrocarbon oils (such as isohexadecane), or a mixture thereof.

The amount of the one or more fatty compounds in the cosmetic compositions varies but, in some embodiments, is from about 5% by weight to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the amount of the one or more fatty compounds in the cosmetic compositions is about 5 to about 15% by weight, about 5 to about 12% by weight, about 6 to about 20% by weight, about 6 to about 20% by weight, about 6 to about 20% by weight, about 6 to about 20% by weight, about 6 to about approximately 15% by weight, approximately 6 to approximately 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Stability

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure are stable. For example, in one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions do not separate into visually perceptible phases or form visibly observable particles for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks of storage at 4°C, 25° C, 37°C and/or 45°C.

In another embodiment, the cosmetic compositions do not separate into visually perceptible phases or form visibly observable particles during at least 10 freeze-thaw test cycles, in which the freeze-thaw tests consist of placing the cosmetic composition in a stability chamber and subjecting it to a temperature fluctuation at 12 hour intervals, for a first interval of 12 hours at -20°C followed by a second interval of 12 hours at 25°C.

In one embodiment, the viscosity of the cosmetic compositions does not change by more than 20%, 15%, 10% or 5%, for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks of storage at 4°C. °C, 37°C and/or 45°C.

Viscosity

In general, the cosmetic compositions herein have a viscosity of about 5,000 to about 200,000 Pa.s at 25°C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25°C. However, in other embodiments, the compositions have a viscosity of about 10,000 to about 200,000 Pa.s, about 10,000 to about 180,000 Pa.s, about 10,000 to about 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 10,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, approximately 10,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, approximately 10,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 180 000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, about 20,000 to about 80,000 Pa.s, about 30,000 to about 200,000 Pa.s, about 30,000 to about 180,000 Pa.s, about 30,000 to about 150,000 Pa.s, about 30 000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, approximately 30,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, approximately 30,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, approximately 35,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, approximately 35,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s .s, about 35,000 to about 150,000 Pa.s, about 35,000 to about 120,000 Pa.s, about 35,000 to about 100,000 Pa.s, or about 35,000 to about 80,000 Pa.s at 25° C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25 °C.

Viscosity measurements can be made, for example, using a Brookfield viscometer/rheometer using a T-bar spindle at a speed of 5, 10, 15 and/or 20 rpm. An RVDV-II+Pro viscometer with RheocalcT software can be used for automated instrument control and data acquisition. The test temperature is maintained at 25°C using a Brookfield TC-502P programmable refrigerated bath. From its original container, a sample is transferred into a 120 ml glass jar and is then tested.

Processes

The present disclosure relates to methods of treating skin. The methods include applying a cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure, optionally allowing the cosmetic composition to remain on the skin for a period of time. Cosmetic compositions are typically applied directly to the skin using the hand or a tissue. The skin can optionally be washed or rinsed before application. The skin treatment process can be carried out once a day or several times. For example, the skin treatment method can be carried out once a day, twice a day, once a week, twice a week for an extended period of time, for example, for about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6 months up to 1 year, or more. In various embodiments, the methods are intended to strengthen or improve the skin's natural lipid barrier; to treat dry and/or aging skin; to maintain and/or improve the water balance of the skin; and/or to improve the appearance of the skin. In one embodiment, the methods reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, enhance hyaluronic acid production via stimulation of glycosaminoglycan (GAG) synthesis, thereby softening the stratum corneum to relieve cumulative stress on the epidermis and dermis, etc.

The present disclosure also relates to methods for stabilizing a cosmetic composition containing high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol. This process includes incorporating hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol into the compositions of the present disclosure. The amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol which may be incorporated are the amounts presented in the present disclosure.

Required

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may be provided in a kit, for example, a kit comprising an individually contained cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure and one or more additional separately contained cosmetic compositions. In one embodiment, the one or more separately contained compositions may be an additional composition according to the current disclosure or may be a different composition. The cosmetic compositions may be contained separately in different cartridges, which are included in a dispensing apparatus/device. In other words, the kit may be a dispensing apparatus/device comprising a plurality of cartridges in which the compositions are contained. The kit (or apparatus/device) may optionally dispense the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure and separately dispense the one or more separately contained compositions. In various embodiments, the compositions may be dispensed individually or simultaneously, and may optionally be mixed (or not) with each other prior to dispensing. In one embodiment, the various compositions are not mixed together before being distributed. Useful dispensing systems, cartridges, and apparatus/devices are disclosed in U.S. Patent ^Nos. 9,968,177 and 9,808,071; in U.S. Patent Application Publication Nos ^. 2021/0 236 390, ^2021/0 236 390, 2021/0 235 849 and 2021/0 236 863; and in U.S. Serial ^No. 17/162,555, all of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

Embodiments

In preferred embodiments, the cosmetic compositions comprise or consist of:

(a) about 10 to about 55 weight percent, preferably about 20 to about 55 weight percent, more preferably about 30 to about 50 weight percent of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

(b) about 15 to about 50 weight percent, preferably about 20 to about 50 weight percent, more preferably about 25 to about 50 weight percent water;

(c) about 5 to about 25% by weight of one or more silicone oils, preferably one or more non-volatile silicone oils, more preferably one or more silicone oils selected from dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone -11, phenyl trimethicone, amodimethicone, and mixtures thereof, preferably one or more of the silicone oils is dimethicone;

(d) about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 4% by weight of one or more crosslinked emulsifying silicone elastomers, preferably one or more polyoxyalkylenated emulsifying silicone elastomers, more preferably chosen from dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosslinked polymer, PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-10 lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-10 lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymers, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG/PPG 15 dimethicone/dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-10 dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-10/15 dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-15 dimethicone cross-linked polymer, polyglycerin-3 dimethicone cross-linked polymer, cross-linked polymer of dimethicone PPG-20, cross-linked polymer of lauryl dimethicone PEG-15, cross-linked polymer of lauryl dimethicone polyglycerin-3, cross-linked polymer of PEG-8 dimethicone polysorbate-20, cross-linked polymer of PEG-10 dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone, cross-linked polymer PEG-10 lauryl dimethicone, PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-15 laurylpolydimethylsiloxy ethyl crosslinked polymer, and mixtures thereof, more preferably dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosslinked polymer;

(e) about 0.01 to about 5 weight percent, preferably about 0.01 to about 3 weight percent, more preferably about 0.1 to about 2 weight percent of one or more co-emulsifying silicones selected from dimethicone copolyols, for example, dimethicone copolyols selected from PEG-8 dimethicone benzoate, PEG-7 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-8 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-10 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-7 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-14 dimethicone, PEG-17 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-17 /18 dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, and mixtures thereof, in particular PEG-10 dimethicone;

(f) optionally, one or more water-soluble solvents, for example, glycerin, C ₂ -C ₆ monoalcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture thereof, wherein, s If present, the one or more water-soluble solvents may optionally be present in an amount of about 5 to about 45% by weight, preferably about 10 to about 40% by weight, more preferably from about 15 to about 35% by weight;

(g) optionally, one or more silicone powders, for example, cross-linked polymer of (dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone), cross-linked polymer of (dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone), cross-linked polymer of (vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone), cross-linked polymer of (vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane), cross-linked polymer of (diphenyl dimethicone/vinyl diphenyl dimethicone/silsesquioxane), cross-linked polymer of polysilicone-1, polysilicone-22, polyalkylsilsesquioxane (e.g., polymethylsilsesquioxane). Preferred silicone powders include polyalkylsilsesquioxane (e.g., polymethylsilsesquioxane), vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane, polysilicone-11, and mixtures thereof, in which, if present, they may be in an amount of approximately 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight;

(h) optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, for example, miscellaneous ingredients selected from various emulsifiers/surfactants different from the cross-linked emulsifiers of (d) silicone elastomers, preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, extracts botanicals, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescent agents, fillers, dyes, mattifying agents, other skin-active agents, buffers, and mixtures thereof, in which, If they are present, they may be in an amount of about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 6 % in weight ;

wherein the composition is preferably a water-in-silicone emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure are stable. For example, in one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions do not separate into visually perceptible phases or form visibly observable particles for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks of storage at 4°C, 25° C, 37°C and/or 45°C.

In another embodiment, the cosmetic compositions do not separate into visually perceptible phases or form visibly observable particles for at least 10 freeze-thaw test cycles, the freeze-thaw test comprising placing the composition cosmetic in a stability chamber and subjecting it to a temperature fluctuation at 12 hour intervals, for a first interval of 12 hours at -20°C followed by a second interval of 12 hours at 25°C.

In one embodiment, the viscosity of the cosmetic compositions does not change by more than 20%, 15%, 10% or 5%, for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks of storage at 4°C. °C, 37°C and/or 45°C.

The cosmetic compositions preferably have a viscosity of about 5,000 to about 200,000 Pa.s at 25°C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25°C. However, in other embodiments, the compositions have a viscosity of about 10,000 to about 200,000 Pa.s, about 10,000 to about 180,000 Pa.s, about 10,000 to about 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 10,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, approximately 10,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, approximately 10,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 180 000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, about 20,000 to about 80,000 Pa.s, about 30,000 to about 200,000 Pa.s, about 30,000 to about 180,000 Pa.s, about 30,000 to about 150,000 Pa.s, about 30 000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, approximately 30,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, approximately 30,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, approximately 35,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, approximately 35,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s .s, about 35,000 to about 150,000 Pa.s, about 35,000 to about 120,000 Pa.s, about 35,000 to about 100,000 Pa.s, or about 35,000 to about 80,000 Pa.s at 25° C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25 °C.

In particularly preferred embodiments, the cosmetic compositions comprise or consist of:

(a) about 10 to about 55 weight percent, preferably about 20 to about 55 weight percent, more preferably about 30 to about 50 weight percent of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

(b) about 15 to about 50 weight percent, preferably about 20 to about 50 weight percent, more preferably about 25 to about 50 weight percent water;

(c) about 5 to about 25% by weight of one or more silicone oils, preferably one or more non-volatile silicone oils, more preferably one or more silicone oils selected from dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone -11, phenyl trimethicone and amodimethicone, in particular dimethicone;

(d) about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 4% by weight of one or more crosslinked emulsifying silicone elastomers, preferably one or more polyoxyalkylenated emulsifying silicone elastomers, more preferably chosen from dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosslinked polymer, PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-10 lauryl dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone cross-linked polymers, PEG/PPG 15 dimethicone/dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-10 dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-10/15 dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-15 dimethicone cross-linked polymer , cross-linked polymer dimethicone polyglycerin-3, cross-linked polymer dimethicone PPG-20, cross-linked polymer lauryl dimethicone PEG-15, cross-linked polymer lauryl dimethicone polyglycerin-3, cross-linked polymer PEG-8 dimethicone polysorbate-20, cross-linked polymer PEG -10 dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone, PEG-10 lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-15 laurylpolydimethylsiloxy ethyl crosslinked polymer, and mixtures thereof, more preferably crosslinked polymer dimethicone/PEG-10/15;

(e) about 0.01 to about 5 weight percent, preferably about 0.01 to about 3 weight percent, more preferably about 0.1 to about 2 weight percent of one or more co-emulsifying silicones selected from dimethicone copolyols, for example, dimethicone copolyols selected from PEG-8 dimethicone benzoate, PEG-7 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-8 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-10 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-7 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-14 dimethicone, PEG-17 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-17 /18 dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, and mixtures thereof, in particular PEG-10 dimethicone;

(f) about 5 to about 45% by weight, preferably about 10 to about 40% by weight, more preferably about 15 to about 35% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents, for example, glycerin, C ₂ -C ₆ monoalcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture thereof;

(g) approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, preferably approximately 0.1 to approximately 4% by weight, more preferably approximately 0.5 to approximately 3% by weight of one or more silicone powders, for example, cross-linked polymer of (dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone), cross-linked polymer of (dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone), cross-linked polymer of (vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone), cross-linked polymer of (vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane), cross-linked polymer of ( diphenyl dimethicone/vinyl diphenyl dimethicone/silsesquioxane), cross-linked polymer of polysilicone-1, polysilicone-22, polyalkylsilsesquioxane (e.g., polymethylsilsesquioxane), polysilicone-11, and mixtures thereof, preferably polyalkylsilsesquioxane (e.g., polymethylsilsesquioxane ), vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane, polysilicone-11, and mixtures thereof, more preferably polymethylsilsesquioxane;

(h) about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight, of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, for example, various ingredients selected from various emulsifiers/surfactants different from (d) cross-linked emulsifiers silicone elastomers, preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, hydrolysates and /or protein isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescent agents, fillers, colorants, mattifying agents, other skin-active agents, buffers, and mixtures thereof;

wherein the composition is preferably a water-in-silicone emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure are stable. For example, in one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions do not separate into visually perceptible phases or form visibly observable particles for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks of storage at 4°C, 25° C, 37°C and/or 45°C.

In another embodiment, the cosmetic compositions do not separate into visually perceptible phases or form visibly observable particles during at least 10 freeze-thaw test cycles, wherein the freeze-thaw test comprises: placing the cosmetic composition in a stability chamber and subjecting it to a temperature fluctuation at 12 hour intervals, for a first interval of 12 hours at -20°C followed by a second interval of 12 hours at 25°C.

In one embodiment, the viscosity of the cosmetic compositions does not change by more than 20%, 15%, 10% or 5%, for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks of storage at 4°C. °C, 37°C and/or 45°C.

The cosmetic compositions preferably have a viscosity of about 5,000 to about 200,000 Pa.s at 25°C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25°C. However, in other embodiments, the compositions have a viscosity of about 10,000 to about 200,000 Pa.s, about 10,000 to about 180,000 Pa.s, about 10,000 to about 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 10,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, approximately 10,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, approximately 10,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 180 000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, about 20,000 to about 80,000 Pa.s, about 30,000 to about 200,000 Pa.s, about 30,000 to about 180,000 Pa.s, about 30,000 to about 150,000 Pa.s, about 30 000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, approximately 30,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, approximately 30,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, approximately 35,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, approximately 35,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s .s, about 35,000 to about 150,000 Pa.s, about 35,000 to about 120,000 Pa.s, about 35,000 to about 100,000 Pa.s, or about 35,000 to about 80,000 Pa.s at 25° C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25 °C.

EXAMPLES

As various changes could be made to the methods described above without departing from the scope of the invention, it is intended that everything contained in the above description and in the examples given below, should be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

The following examples are intended to be non-restrictive and explanatory only. The quantities of ingredients in the compositions/formulas described below are expressed in % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 1 (Compositions)

*N - Composition (C-1) separated into phases within 2 hours.

Example 2

The compositions of Example 1 were subjected to stability studies and evaluated visually for phase separation and evaluated microscopically for particle formation. The compositions were analyzed during the initial manufacture of the composition (T0). The compositions were analyzed again after 10 days of freeze-thaw testing. For the freeze-thaw test, the compositions were placed in a stability chamber and subjected to temperature fluctuations at 12 hour intervals. For 12 hours, the compositions were maintained at -20°C. For the next 12 hours, the compositions were maintained at 25°C. The cycle was repeated 10 times (for 10 days). Separately, the compositions of Example 1 were evaluated after 4 weeks (1 month) of storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and 45°C and again after 8 weeks (2 months) at 4°C. C, 25°C, 37°C and 45°C and assessed visually for phase separation and assessed microscopically for particle formation. Viscosity was also evaluated.

The inventive compositions were judged to be stable ("O") (yes) because they did not separate into visually perceptible phases, did not form particles, and retained a viscosity of at least 10% (the change viscosity was not greater than ± 10%). Comparative composition C-1 was judged to be non-stable (“N”) (no) because it phase separated within 2 hours of formation.

The foregoing description illustrates and describes the inventions. The disclosure only shows and describes the preferred embodiments, but it should be understood that the inventions may be used in various other combinations, modifications and environments and may undergo changes or modifications in the scope of the inventive concepts such that they are expressed herein, based on the teachings above and/or skill or knowledge of the relevant art. The embodiments described above are further intended to explain the best modes known to the applicant and to enable others skilled in the art to use the inventions in these or other embodiments, and with the various modifications required by their particular applications or uses. Accordingly, the description is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein.

DEFINITIONS

As used herein, the term "silicone oil" refers to a liquid polymerized siloxane compound having an organic side chain. There are different silicone oils depending on the type of organic side chain.

As used herein, the terms “comprising”, “having” and “including” (or “include”, “have” and “include”) are used in their open and non-limiting sense. The phrase “consisting essentially of” limits the scope of a claim to specified materials or steps and to those which do not materially affect the fundamental and novel features of the claimed invention.

The terms “un”, “une”, “le”, “la” and “l’” are understood to include the plural as well as the singular.

Thus, the expression "a mixture thereof" also refers to "mixtures thereof". Throughout the disclosure, if the phrase "a mixture thereof" is used, it follows a list of elements as shown in the following example where the letters A through F represent the elements: "one or more selected elements in the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, or a mixture thereof. The phrase "a mixture thereof" does not require that the mixture include all elements A, B, C, D, E and F (although all elements A, B, C, D, E and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of two or more of elements A, B, C, D, E and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the sentence "one or more elements chosen from A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of any two or more elements from A, B, C, D, E and F ".

Likewise, the expression "a salt of these" also refers to "salts of these". Thus, when the disclosure refers to "an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, or mixtures thereof," it indicates that a or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.

Salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium counterion. This list of counterions is, however, not exhaustive. Suitable counterions for the components described herein are known in the art.

The expression “one or more” means “at least one” and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

The term “plurality” means “more than one” or “two or more.”

An “alkyl radical” is a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group, in particular C ₁ -C ₈ , more particularly C ₁ -C ₆ , preferably C ₁ -C ₄ , such as methyl, ethyl, isopropyl and tert-butyl;

An “alkoxy radical” is an alkyl-oxy in which the alkyl is as described above.

An “alkenyl radical” is a group based on unsaturated hydrocarbon, linear or branched, particularly in C ₂ -C ₈ , more particularly in C ₂ -C ₆ , more preferably in C ₂ -C ₄ , such as ethylenyl, propylenyl.

An “alkylene radical” is a divalent saturated hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, in C ₁ -C ₈ , in particular in C ₁ -C ₆ , preferably in C ₁ -C ₄ such as methylene, ethylene or propylene.

Some of the various categories of components identified for cosmetic compositions may overlap. In those cases where overlap may exist and the composition/product includes two overlapping components (or more than two overlapping components), an overlapping component represents no more than one component. For example, a fatty acid can be considered both as a “non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty emollient” and as a “surfactant/emulsifier”. If a particular composition/product includes both a non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty emollient component and a surfactant/emulsifier component, a single type of fatty acid may serve solely as a non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty emollient or surfactant/emulsifier (a single fatty acid does not serve as both a non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty emollient component and a surfactant/emulsifier component).

All percentages, parts and ratios stated herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention unless otherwise noted.

All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described here that falls within a range described here can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a subrange, etc. Additionally, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, as well as any combination of subranges between them. So a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes points 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as subranges such as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc. ; and points 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 include ranges and subranges 1 to 5, 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc.

Apart from the operational examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions may be modified by the term "approximately", whether or not expressly indicated.

Furthermore, all numbers are intended to represent exact values as further embodiments, whether or not modified by the term "approximately". For example, "an amount of approximately 1%" can be modified to refer to exactly 1%. In another example, "an amount of 1%" can be modified to refer to "approximately 1%." Unless otherwise stated, the term "approximately" is understood to encompass a range of +/- 10% of the number stated. However, in some embodiments, the term may be defined to encompass narrower ranges, for example, +/- 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%. %, 9% and 10% of the number indicated.

The terms "surfactants" and "emulsifiers" include salts of surfactants and emulsifiers, even if they are not explicitly mentioned. In other words, whenever the disclosure refers to a surfactant or emulsifier, it is understood that salts are also included to the extent that such salts exist, even though the specification may not specifically refer to a salt (or may not refer to a salt in each case throughout the disclosure), for example, using language such as "a salt of these" or "salts of these". Sodium and potassium are common cations that form salts with surfactants and emulsifiers. However, other cations such as ammonium ions or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions, can also form surfactant salts.

The term "substantially free" or "substantially free" as used herein means that the specific material may be present in small quantities which do not materially affect the fundamental and novel features of the claimed invention. For example, there may be less than 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the composition (provided that less than 2% by weight does not materially affect the fundamental and new characteristics of the claimed invention). Likewise, a composition "substantially free" or "substantially free" of a listed material may include less than 1.5% by weight, less than 1% by weight, less than 0.5% by weight, less than 0, 1% by weight, less than 0.05% by weight, or less than 0.01% by weight, or none of the material indicated. The term "substantially free" or "substantially free" as used herein may also mean that the specific material is not added to the composition but may still be present in a raw material that is included in the composition.

Furthermore, any components that are positively set forth in the present disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims, i.e., a claimed composition may be "free", "substantially free" (or "free"). substantially free") from one or more components which are positively presented in the present disclosure. By way of example, the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure may optionally include one or more phenolic or polyphenolic active compounds, for example baicalin. However, in one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions may be free or essentially free of phenolic or polyphenolic active compounds, in particular baicalin.

All publications and patent applications cited in this specification are herein incorporated by reference, and for all purposes as if each individual publication or patent application were specifically and individually stated to be incorporated by reference. In the event of any inconsistency between this disclosure and any publication or patent application incorporated herein by reference, this disclosure shall control.

Claims (10)

Cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) about 15 to about 55 weight percent hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;
(b) about 15 to about 50 weight percent water;
(c) about 5 to about 25% by weight of one or more silicone oils;
(d) about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more cross-linked emulsifying silicone elastomers;
(e) about 0.01 to about 5% by weight of one or more co-emulsifying silicones selected from dimethicone copolyols;
wherein the composition is a water-in-silicone emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition. Composition according to claim 1 comprising:
(a) about 20 to about 50 weight percent hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol. Composition according to claim 1 or 2 comprising:
(b) about 15 to about 50% by weight of water. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the one or more silicone oils of (c) are chosen from dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclomethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cycloheptasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclotrisiloxane, capryldimethicone, caprylyl trimethicone , caprylyl methicone, cetearylmethicone, hexadecylmethicone, hexylmethicone, laurylmethicone, myristylmethicone, phenylmethicone, stearylmethicone, stearyldimethicone, behenyldimethicone, trifluoropropylmethicone, cetyldimethicone, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone and phenyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the one or more crosslinked emulsifying silicone elastomers of (d) are chosen from polyoxyalkylenated emulsifying silicone elastomers (crosslinked dimethicone polymer/PEG-10/15 and PEG-10 dimethicone ), polyglycerol emulsifying silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the one or more dimethicone copolyols of (e) are chosen from PEG-8 dimethicone benzoate, PEG-7 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-8 dimethicone phosphate, dimethicone phosphate PEG-10, PEG-7 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-14 dimethicone, PEG-17 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 dimethicone, PEG/ PPG-4/12 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-17/18 dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising:
(f) one or more water-soluble solvents. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims having a viscosity of 20,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25°C. A kit comprising the cosmetic composition of any preceding claim and one or more additional skin treatment compositions, wherein the cosmetic composition and each of the one or more skin treatment compositions are contained separately. A method of treating the skin comprising applying the cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 to 10 to the skin.