An Expert Guide to Dermarolling for Beginners

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Get rid of wrinkles, scars, and dark spots with a derma roller

Co-authored by Lydia Shedlofsky, DO and Sophia Latorre

Last Updated: June 24, 2024 Fact Checked

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Prepping Your Skin

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Derma-Rolling

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After-Care

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Best Derma Rollers, Benefits, and Results

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Video

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Warnings

Ready to get gorgeous, glowing skin? A derma roller might be just what you need. This device has a bunch of tiny needles on it that create super small holes in your skin to help it produce more collagen and minimize the appearance of acne scars, wrinkles, and dark spots. Dermarolling, also known as microneedling, allows serums and other skincare products to penetrate deeper, making them more effective. We’re here to walk you through every step of the process so you can derma roll like an expert.

Things You Should Know

Disinfect the roller with rubbing alcohol and wash your face before you do a treatment. Then, apply a serum containing niacinamide or hyaluronic acid.
Roll the device across each area of your skin vertically, horizontally, and diagonally 2-3 times, avoiding your lips, eyes, and nose.
Apply another layer of your skin serum after derma rolling, then a moisturizer. Expect to see a little redness and swelling.
Keep your skin clean and protect it from the sun while it heals. Use a derma roller up to twice a week until you achieve the desired results.

Method 1

Method 1 of 4:

Prepping Your Skin

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1
Disinfect the roller before you use it. Because the tiny needles will penetrate your skin, it’s essential to disinfect those needles first.^{[1]
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Trustworthy Source

Cleveland Clinic
Educational website from one of the world's leading hospitals

Go to source} Soak the roller in 70% isopropyl alcohol for 10 minutes Then, shake off the excess alcohol and let the derma roller air dry for a few minutes.
- 70% isopropyl alcohol is better than 99% because it doesn't evaporate as quickly.
2
Cleanse your face. It's important to start with clean skin.^{[2]
X
Expert Source

Lydia Shedlofsky, DO
Dermatologist

Expert Interview. 14 May 2021.} Use a gentle cleanser designed for your skin type to thoroughly clean your skin.^{[3]
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Research source}
- However, you don't want to start with anything too harsh, so skip facial cleansers with things like salicylic acid in them. Opt for something gentler.
- If you’re derma rolling an area other than your face, wash it with mild soap and water.
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3
Apply a serum. Look for serums with niacinamide or hyaluronic acid to create supple skin and help fade wrinkles, scars, and dark spots.^{[4]
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Research source} Put a small amount of your preferred serum on your fingertips and gently press it into the skin on your face.
- If you get the procedure done in a dermatologist’s office, they’ll apply a topical anesthetic 45 minutes beforehand.^{[5]
  X
  Trustworthy Source
  
  PubMed Central
  Journal archive from the U.S. National Institutes of Health
  
  Go to source} This isn’t necessary for derma rolling at home, though, because the needles are so much shorter and don’t penetrate as deeply.

Method 2

Method 2 of 4:

Derma-Rolling

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1
Roll vertically. Gently roll the device over your skin. Start on one side of your face and roll from top to bottom. Lift up the derma roller, and roll over the next area. Do each area 2-3 times.^{[6]
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- Don’t roll over your nose, lips, or eyes.^{[7]
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- Derma rolling at home shouldn’t hurt or draw blood because the needles are shallow. If it’s painful, don’t press as hard.
Repeat the process, rolling across your face horizontally. After each stroke, move down or up a little bit, and roll your skin until you've done the whole area 2-3 times.^{[8]
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To finish up, gently roll the device across your skin diagonally 2-3 times. Lift up the device after each stroke, move it over a little bit, and roll it across the next area.^{[9]
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You can overdo it with microneedling, especially on your face. Therefore, it's a good idea to limit each rolling session to under 2 minutes if you can.^{[10]
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Experts suggest giving your skin time to rest and heal between treatments. You can derma roll at home 2 times per week if you’d like, or space out your treatments further.^{[11]
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Trustworthy Source

PubMed Central
Journal archive from the U.S. National Institutes of Health

Go to source} Some people only use this treatment every 6 weeks, for instance.

Method 3

Method 3 of 4:

After-Care

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The tiny holes in your skin will allow the serum to penetrate deeper, making it more effective.^{[12]
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Research source} Gently dab the serum onto your face.
2
Hydrate your skin. Apply an emollient, or moisturizer, to soften your skin to help avoid irritation.^{[13]
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Expert Source

Lydia Shedlofsky, DO
Dermatologist

Expert Interview. 30 September 2020.}
- Avoid applying a product with retinol or vitamin C after derma rolling, which can seriously irritate your skin.^{[14]
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3
Clean the roller in dish soap and water. Wash your roller off using dish soap and hot water. Dish soap is better than other soaps at removing the tiny particles on your roller. Put the soap and water in a clean container, and shake the roller around in the water.
- Always clean your roller according to the manufacturer’s instructions.^{[15]
  X
  Trustworthy Source
  
  US Food and Drug Administration
  U.S. government agency responsible for promoting public health
  
  Go to source}
4
Disinfect the roller after using it. Spray the roller with rubbing alcohol. Then, store it upright so the needles aren’t touching anything.^{[16]
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- For best results, replace the roller head after using it 20 times.
5
Expect some redness and swelling. The side effects of microneedling include swelling, redness, and flakiness that can last for a few days. Feel free to apply makeup to your skin the day after a treatment.^{[17]
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- Avoid derma rolling if you have an active breakout, as it could worsen acne.
Dermarolling essentially creates a bunch of tiny wounds in your skin. To prevent infection, wash the area regularly and avoid swimming or going to the gym, at least for a few days. Wear sunscreen if you plan to be outside, as well.^{[18]
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Trustworthy Source

Cleveland Clinic
Educational website from one of the world's leading hospitals

Go to source}

Method 4

Method 4 of 4:

Best Derma Rollers, Benefits, and Results

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1
Select a derma roller with needles that are 0.2 mm or shorter. While longer needles penetrate the skin deeper and may produce better results, you’ll need a dermatologist to perform the treatment with a medical instrument.^{[19]
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Research source} To derma roll at home, look for a device with 0.2-mm needles.^{[20]
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- Several dermatologists recommend the Environ Cosmetic Gold Roll-CIT derma roller.^{[21]
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- The BeautyBio GloPRO Microneedling Regeneration Tool also comes highly recommended.^{[22]
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Use microneedling to treat acne scars and wrinkles. The FDA has approved microneedling by a dermatologist for minimizing the look of acne scars and wrinkles on the face and neck. They haven’t approved any over-the-counter products for use at home, though.^{[23]
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Trustworthy Source

US Food and Drug Administration
U.S. government agency responsible for promoting public health

Go to source} Microneedling can also treat enlarged pores, dark spots, and stretch marks.^{[24]
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- At-home derma rollers don’t penetrate the skin as deeply as dermatological instruments do, so they’re best suited for exfoliation and delivering skincare products and serums to the skin.^{[25]
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- Derma rolling at home can also help shrink pores, reduce oil production, minimize fine lines and wrinkles, and reduce breakouts.^{[26]
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  Trustworthy Source
  
  DermNet NZ
  Online clinical resource website written and run by dermatologists providing evidence-based information about dermatology and skin health
  
  Go to source}
Microneedling works pretty quickly, but the results aren’t instantaneous. It will probably take 3-5 treatments, done every 2-4 weeks, for you to notice a difference in the appearance of your scars or wrinkles.^{[27]
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Warnings

Don't share your derma roller with anyone else. Because it penetrates the skin, you could transfer bacteria or blood.

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Ask a dermatologist if microneedling is right for you before you try it at home. They can recommend a product and treatment regimen suitable for your skin.^{[28]
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Cleveland Clinic
Educational website from one of the world's leading hospitals

Go to source}

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