PRODUCT ANALYSIS & DEVELOPMENT

END TERM JURY

Technical information of sourced & original fabric &
trims along with the specification sheet of a full
sleeve designer shirt
Category: Kids wear – Boys
by
Max Fashion

Department Of Fashion Submitted by,

Technology
Ayushi Kumari

Under the Guidance of: Vikash Kumar Sinha

Mr Prabhat Kumar DFT-VII
(Assistant Professor, NIFT 09-12-19
Patna)
 CERTIFICATE

“This is to certify that this test report is submitted to “National Institute Of Fashion Technology, Patna” is a record of an original work done by
Ayushi Kumari and Vikash Kumar Sinha under the guidance of Subject Faculty Mr Prabhat Kumar , Assistant Professor, NIFT Patna.
No part of this work has been copied from any other source. Material wherever borrowed has been duly acknowledged.

……………………………………
…………………………………… …………………………………
(Signature of Students) (Signature of Faculty)
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

With this work, we would like to thank our institute, NIFT Patna, for providing us with the course curriculum. We also
express our gratitude to the subject faculty, Mr. Prabhat Kumar, for his continuous support and guidance throughout the
assignment.
Lastly, we would like to thank Mr Kunal Singha for giving us the guidance required in the textile laboratory.

Thank You.
Introduction
Fabric details
Garment Details
Category Kids wear (Boys) Following are the two types of fabrics used in the
Style Casual Shirt shirt
Age 7-8 years
Company Max Fashion
Season Autumn Winter

Fabric-I

Fabric-II

Garment
Different tests are to performed on the original and sourced fabric to determine the following -
1. Yarn Count - The yarn count is a numerical expression which defines its fineness or coarseness. It also expresses weather the yarn is thick or thin.
A definition is given by the textile institute – “Count is a number which indicates the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass of yarn.”
2. Fabric Structure - Fabric structure refers to the weave of the fabric.
3. EPI and PPI - No. of yarn in warp direction is EPI and no. of yarns in weft direction in PPI . EPI denotes Ends per inch & PPI denotes Picks per
inch.
3. Fibre Composition- To determine the exact composition of fibres in fabric chemical and physical tests are performed.
4. Tensile Strength - The resistance of a material to breaking under tension is determined both warp and weft wise.
5. Tearing Strength - It is the force required to start or to continue to tear a fabric, in weft and warp direction under specified condition.
6. Colour Fastness – Colourfastness is the resistance of a fabric to change in any of its colorants to adjacent materials during end use. Here we have
performed colour fastness in dry and wet condition to check the colour bleeding.
Test equipment used-
1. Pick glass
2. Tearing strength tester (Paramount)
3. Tensile strength tester (Paramount)
4. Weighting machine
5. Digital Projectino (Paramount)
6. GSM Cutter (Paramount)
Tearing Strength Test
Sample Prepration

1. First we take specimen of 100 ×75 .

2. The template is placed on the specimen and cut according to the template, which are given below.
3. A slit is created at the middle point of the specimen, which range is 20 mm.
4. In the test, the Elmendorf continuous to tear the fabric from the end of the slit to the opposite edge
distance of 43mm.
5. Pendulum lever principle is used here.

Working Procedure:

1. The apparatus consists of a sector shaped pendulum carrying a moving sample clamp & a fixed
clamp on the frame.
2. When the pendulum is in the raised to starting position, the specimen is transferred between the
two clamps.
3. The tear is started by a slit cut in the specimen between the clamps.
4. The pendulum is then released & the specimen is torn as the moving clamp, moving away from the
fixes clamp.
Tearing strength tester
5. The pointer attached to the pendulum, which is graduated to read the tearing force directly.
Test name Tearing Strength (kg)
Equipment name
Fabric Main Fabric (I)
Readings Warp wise Weft wise
Notch up 74 75
Notch down 80 80
Avg. 38.5 38.75
Main Fabric(II)
Readings Warp wise Weft wise
Notch up 48 46
Notch down 52 50
Avg. 25 24
Sourced Fabric(I)
Readings Warp wise Weft wise
Notch up 70 64
Notch down 75 70
Avg. 36.25 33.5
Sourced Fabric(II)
Readings Warp wise Weft wise
Notch up 42 40
Notch down 54 50
Avg. 24.75 22.5
Test name Tearing Strength (kg)
Equipment name
Fabric Main Fabric (I)
Readings Warp wise Weft wise
Notch up 74 75
Notch down 80 80
Avg. 38.5 38.75
Main Fabric(II)
Readings Warp wise Weft wise
Notch up 48 46
Notch down 52 50
Avg. 25 24
Sourced Fabric(I)
Readings Warp wise Weft wise
Notch up 70 64
Notch down 75 70
Avg. 36.25 33.5
Sourced Fabric(II)
Readings Warp wise Weft wise
Notch up 42 40
Notch down 54 50
Avg. 24.75 22.5

Templet for sample cutting

EPI and PPI

Actual Fabric(I)
EPI 65
PPI 50
Sourced Fabric(I)
EPI 55
PPI 52

Actual Fabric(lI)
EPI 58
PPI 45
Sourced Fabric(II)
EPI 50
PPI 40
Pick glass
GSM Calculation

Sample name GSM (gm)

Actual Fabric(I) 128

Actual Fabric(II) 80

Sourced Fabric(I) 92

Sourced Fabric(II) 106

Weighting machine
GSM cutter
Tensile Strength Test

Sample Preparation:

4 samples for warp direction

4 samples for weft direction
First taken a sample of (60mmx300)mm and then frayed down to (50mmx300)mm
Test Procedure:

Sample is clamped in the jaws

CRE 500mm per minute loading
Gauge length 200mm

Actual Fabric(I)
Direction Tensile Value Pick Value Tensile Strength(kg/cm)
Warp Wise 3 18.7 6.23
Weft Wise 2.8 17.7 6.32

Actual Fabric(II)
Direction Tensile Value Pick Value Tensile Strength(kg)
Warp Wise 2.9 10.5 3.9
Weft Wise 3 10.3 2

Sourced Fabric(I)
Direction Tensile Value Pick Value Tensile Strength(kg)
Warp Wise 3 11.6 5.8
Weft Wise 5 10.8 5.2
Sourced Fabric(II)
Direction Tensile Value Pick Value Tensile Strength(kg)
Warp Wise 3.3 10.1 3.6
Weft Wise 3 10 2.4

Tensile strength tester

Fibre Composition Test

Burning test
Original fabric - Both the original fabric burnt slowly & got converted in to ash showing cotton content
in the fabric.
In both the fabric cotton & polyester blend was found.

Original sample

Sourced fabric- Sourced fabric burnt a little faster than the original fabric with little ash showing more
polyester content than the original one.
On the other hand the sourced white fabric had more cotton content supported with slow burning.
Fabric Structure and Weave

Sample Name Weave Picture

Main fabric (I) Fil-a-fil

Main fabric (II)

Plain weave

Sourced fabric (I) Fil-a-fil

Sourced fabric (II) Plain weave

FABRIC SOURCING DETAILS FROM DIFFERENT VENDORS

SR SOURCED MATERIAL VENDOR PRICE(Rs)

NO.
1 Fabric-I Raymond 100/m
2 Fabric-II Raymond 60/m
3 Thread Vardhman 2/spool
4 Label Kara 1/pc
5 Button Read head 0.5/pc

SR SOURCED MATERIAL VENDOR PRICE(Rs)

NO.
1 Fabric-I Arvind 95/m
2 Fabric-II Arvind 75/m
3 Thread Gutterman 2.25/m
4 Label Max 1.5/pc
5 Button Pyxis 0.4/pc
SR SOURCED MATERIAL VENDOR PRICE(Rs)
NO.
1 Fabric-I Banswara 80/m
2 Fabric-II Banswara 60/m
3 Thread Kingso 1.75/m
4 Label Max 1.5/pc
5 Button J.C Rags 0.6/pc

SR SOURCED MATERIAL VENDOR PRICE(Rs)

NO.
1 Fabric-I Siyaram’s 88/m
2 Fabric-II Siyaram’s 50/m
3 Thread Madiera 1.85/m
4 Label Max 1.5/pc
5 Button J.C Rags 0.6/pc
Presentation of all the fabrics and trims used in original garment and our constructed garment

Original Sourced

Fabric-I Fabric-I

Fabric-II Fabric-II

Button Button

Thread Thread
 BILL OF MATERIAL

Sr no. Material Rate (Rupees) Consumption Cost(Rupees)

1 Fabric - I 100 /m 1m 100

2 Fabric -II 60 /m 0.5m 30
3 Thread 4 / rill 1 1
4 Button 0.5/pc 7 3.5
5 Size label 1/pc 1 1
6 Care label 0.75/pc 1 0.75
7 Tag 1/pc 1 1
Total 137.25
Max Season Festive winter 2019 CONTENTS
PRODUCT DETAILS - 1
Style KFS-78
STYLE LINES - 2
BLOCK DETAILS, SPEC SHEET &
Description Full sleeves shirt
MEASUREMENT GUIDELINE -3

Date 02-03-19 BUTTON PLACEMENTS -4

LABEL PLACEMENTS -5

Designer Alisha Bajaj SEAMS -6

MACHINES REQUIRED-7
Brand Max Fashion

Fabrication 100% cotton

Lifestyle international pvt. ltd

Category Kidswear-Boys
Yamlur , Bangalore

Size 7-8 yrs

LONG SLEEVE SHIRT WITH
MANDARINE COLLAR AND
REGULAR CUFF.
Garment style lines: Mandarine collar , soft
square one button cuff , panelled front with
pin tuck.
SPI 18 for all top stitch
Thread:150tkt
Body , button hole , button & label threads
are to be same.
Buttons: 16 Ligne , 4 hole buttons
Thread: Polycotton
BUTTON PLACEMENT
Total no. of buttons- 7

1.5cm

8 cm

1cm

Note : Last two buttons are placed at a

distance of 3.5 cm
LABEL PLACEMENT

Brand label is placed at the centre back

Care label is placed at a distance of 7.5

cm from bottom
 OPERATION BREAKDOWN

Sr no. Operation Seam/Stitch type Machine required

PREPRATORY
1. Top stitch pin tucks(front both panels) Lock stitch SNLS
2. Front panel I attached to front panel II(left) Plain seam SNLS
3. Front panel I attached to front panel II(right) Plain seam SNLS
4. Top stitch plackets (left & right) Lock stitch SNLS
5. Back yokes attached to back Flat - Felled seam SNCS
6. Sleeve placket attached to sleeve(left) Flat - Felled seam SNLS
7. Sleeve placket attached to sleeve(right) Flat - Felled seam SNLS
8. Run stitch cuff (left) (both panels) Plain seam SNLS
9. Run stitch cuff (right) (both panels) Plain seam SNLS
10. Run stitch collar (both panels) Plain seam SNLS
ASSEMBLY
11. Front attached to back at shoulder Flat - Felled seam DNCS
12. Sleeve(left & right) attached to body Flat - Felled seam DNCS
13. Side seam (left & right) Flat - Felled seam DNCS
14. Cuff attached to sleeve (top stitch) Lock stitch SNLS
15. Collar attached to body Lock stitch SNLS
16. Bottom hem Lock stitch SNLS
17. Button hole Lock stitch Kansai
18. Button attach Lock stitch Button attaching mc
SEAMS
All the seams including side seam , sleeve seam ,yoke attached seam ,arm hole seams are to be made using Flat - Felled seam
 BLOCK DETAILS
SPEC SHEET

CODE DESCRIPTION MEASUREMENT

1 Collar button to button hole 32
2 Collar height at CB 2.5
3 1/2 Chest 40
4 1/2 Waist 40
5 1/2 Bottom 40
6 CB Length 50
7 CF Length 43
8 Yoke height at CB 8.5
9 Back shoulder Length 30
10 1/2 Arm hole curve 18
11 Sleeve Length from C.B.N 60
12 Sleeve Length from Shoulder 45.5
13 Cuff length 21.5
14 Cuff height 5
15 Half cuff Length closed 10.5
16 Sleeve Placket length 10.5
17 Sleeve Placket width 2
18 Front Placket width (Left) 2.5
19 Front Placket width (Right) 2.25
Front Panel-I width from
20 11
chest
21 Front panel-II width 10
22 Pin tucks width 0.75
23 Bottom hem width 0.5

NOTE: Chest (at arm hole), waist & bottom measurements are with seam pressed back from edge to edge as shown. Seam allowance is to be added (2cm)
Collar button to button hole measurements are taken from centre of the button.
All measurements are in centimetres