Department of Fashion Management Studies
National Institute of Fashion Technology-Patna
     Fashion Export Merchandising and EXIM
                 Documentation
Submitted by:                     Master of Fashion Management II
                                  2017-19
Ridhima Ranjan
Nancy Jain
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Table of Contents
Introduction: ............................................................................................................................................. 4
Garment Industry: .................................................................................................................................... 4
Departments in garment manufacturing unit............................................................................................ 4
Process flow in Garment manufacturing unit .......................................................................................... 5
TNA in Garment Industry ........................................................................................................................ 5
   Necessity of TNA in Apparel Industry: ............................................................................................... 6
Combination of Time and Action for an Export Order in Garments: ...................................................... 6
Structure of TNA: .................................................................................................................................... 7
How to prepare an effective TNA. ........................................................................................................... 7
   Lead time of an order: .......................................................................................................................... 8
   Order Quantity: .................................................................................................................................... 8
   Fabric In-house date: ............................................................................................................................ 8
   Trims In-house Date:............................................................................................................................ 8
   Sample Approval .................................................................................................................................. 8
   Date wise line plan: .............................................................................................................................. 8
Sample TNA for formal shirt manufacturing order: ................................................................................ 8
Importance of TNA ................................................................................................................................ 10
Factors need to be considered while preparing TNA: ............................................................................ 11
Importance of key activities in TNA ...................................................................................................... 11
   1. Sampling: ....................................................................................................................................... 11
       Proto sample:.................................................................................................................................. 12
       Fit sample: ...................................................................................................................................... 13
       AD/Photo shoot/Salesman sample ................................................................................................. 13
       Size-set sample:.............................................................................................................................. 14
       GPT sample .................................................................................................................................... 14
       Pilot-run: ........................................................................................................................................ 14
       Pre-production PP meeting and sample: ........................................................................................ 14
       Top of production sample: ............................................................................................................. 15
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   2. Fabric and trim sourcing: ............................................................................................................... 15
       Fabric approvals: ............................................................................................................................ 16
       Trims and art work: ........................................................................................................................ 16
       Fabric Performance Test FPT ........................................................................................................ 16
   3. Production ...................................................................................................................................... 16
       Planned Cut Date: .......................................................................................................................... 16
       Productions start and end date: ...................................................................................................... 17
       Finishing and packing: ................................................................................................................... 17
Critical Path method for TNA preparation: ........................................................................................... 18
Conclusion: ............................................................................................................................................ 19
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Introduction:
Time and Action TNA calendar is one of the most important tools for managing a project. In garment
manufacturing each order is not less than a project to a merchant because from order receiving to
completion of an order it involves a number of tasks of various timelines and utilization of various
resources. Like number of processes, lots of people are also involved to accomplish an order. Similarly
each order is unique in terms of process and time demand. So, a detailed plan with well-defined
responsibility is must in order to complete each order to get completed on time. A time and action
calendar defines the ideal date/time period within which the major activities of an order should occur
against a scheduled delivery window.
Garment Industry:
Garment manufacturing is an assembly- oriented activity with a great range of raw materials, product
types, production volumes, supply chains, retail markets and associated technologies. Companies
range from small family business to multinationals
Clothing industry or garment industry summarizes the types of trade and industry along the production
and life chain of clothing and garments, starting with the textile industry i.e. producers
of cotton, wool, fur, and synthetic fiber via fashion industry to fashion retailers up to trade
with second-hand clothes and textile recycling. The producing sectors build upon a wealth of clothing
technology some      of     which,     like    the loom,     the cotton     gin,    and        the sewing
machine heralded industrialization not only of the previous textile manufacturing practices.
Departments in garment manufacturing unit
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Process flow in Garment manufacturing unit
TNA in Garment Industry
Time and Action Calendar or TNA, a popular tool used in apparel manufacturing industry is a
technique for tracking and following up of important milestones in preproduction processes to ensure
timely delivery within stipulated delivery date. Garment pre-production and merchandising functions
are characterized by people in an organization doing multiple activities. While some of the activities
are dependent and follow each other, a few others are independent. Every garment company takes
enormous care during the planning of an order. Every little detail is interwoven into the planning
system. Making a TNA Calendar is not just entering activity names and duration in tabular forms; it is
also about scientifically working-out the activity duration, logically determining the preceding and
succeeding activities. Time and action calendar consist of the short term and long term plans so
carefully laid out.
A time and action calendar is a most effective communication tool that proves it to be useful to this
task. The chart consists of time frames listed for every action planned major ones and these actions
need to be earned out on time. The purpose of TNA is to cross check at frequent intervals, say, once a
week, whether the planning is being executed satisfactorily. The more frequent the checks, the easier it
is to correct deviations. TNA is especially useful when a buyer wants to know the status of execution
of an order.
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Necessity of TNA in Apparel Industry:
 1. It helps a smart merchandiser to make out the critical tasks in an industry.
 2. It is an essential element for a smooth shipment order.
 3. It is essential for timely shipment an export order
 4. It helps proper the execution process of export order.
 5. It provides the idea about the position of running order.
 6. It helps to optimize the factory inventory.
 7. It gives the apparent plan about the Export order.
 8. It is useful to know the status of the order processing at different level in the apparel industry.
 9. It enhances the factory inventory management.
 10. It improves efficiency due to proper time schedule.
 11. It enhances productivity as a result, also improve a company profits
Combination of Time and Action for an Export Order in Garments:
An apparel industry has lots of work to do such as order analysis, costing, fabric and accessories
booking, sampling, finishing etc. For proper execution this task, need a scheduling plan. Actually,
Time and action (TNA) or critical path is sum of plan schedules. This Plan scheduled is expressed
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with a sheet format which is well known as time and action calendar. For execution an order requires
two type of plan in the apparel industry. There are
    1. Long term plan ( Ex. Sewing)
    2. Short term plan (Ex. Costing)
Structure of TNA:
Normally merchandisers prepare a plan of the order in a spreadsheet by listing down the key processes
in first column and planned date of action for each process in the next column. This planning sheet is
popularly known as time and action calendar TNA. Once TNA calendar is made, then it can be easy
for merchandiser list down their daily ‘to do list’ and taking it one by one. As per TNA schedule
processes can be executed on timely basis to track whether an order is on track or it will get delayed.
In order to make TNA below mentioned information must be available
– Process flow of an order with the list of task which needs to be performed
– Production capacity of cutting, sewing, washing and finishing
– For sewing – batch wise and product wise capacity production per day per batch
– Lead time of activities, e.g. raw material lead time, sampling lead time, etc.
– Shipment date or planned ex-factory date
Normally TNA does not depend on fabric used in merchandise like woven or knits. TNA is largely
depends on the particular process flow of an order, machine requirement and available production
capacity. In TNA planned cutting date PCD and ex-factory date these are the two most critical dates.
How to prepare an effective TNA.
    Firstly we need to know lead time of an order. I.e. assuming 120 or 90 days. Order confirmation to
     garments delivery date.
 Order Quantity
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   Fabric In-house date.
   Trims In-house date.
   Sample Approval.
   Date wise Line plan Sewing, Washing & finishing complete.
Lead time of an order:
Every order has a lead time. It is depend on customers to customers. It can be 120, 90 or 60 days. Most
of the import things that every order needs to calculate time & how to complete this order within this
period. Otherwise, TNA will be valueless.
Order Quantity:
We must to know order quantity of an order. Every order need quantity otherwise we cannot calculate
how many lines need to complete within this period.
Fabric In-house date:
We must need to know fabric in-house date. Without fabric in-house date we cannot plan when it will
be input to line. Based on fabric in-house date we must plan to input date for bulk production.
Trims In-house Date:
We must ensure in TNA all trims & accessories in-house at least one week before bulk production.
TNA make sure that all trims will be in-house timely & strictly follow up with regular basis.
Otherwise, it is difficult to maintain TNA in real happened.
Sample Approval
We must need to approval all sample before bulk production so every sample must be approval within
time frame. So, TNA must mention every sample approval on time. Though we must approved PP
sample before bulk production.
Date wise line plan:
We must know date wise line plan of an order in TNA when it will be complete sewing, washing &
packing. After that we must ensure how many lines allocate & when it will be complete all production
to finishing. So, every task we can follow up time to time otherwise we cannot maintain & properly
execute of an order perfectly.
Sample TNA for formal shirt manufacturing order:
The TNA derived by assuming the order of 10000 pieces of formal shirts, made out of 100% cotton,
plain woven solid dyed fabric, with embroidery logo on it. The order is for SS 2019, delivery date
1stMarch 2019, shipment at New York-USA.
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                                                                 NARI Clothing Company
Time & Action Calender                                                S eason: S S 2019
   Buyer                                                                               Odrer Qty.       10000        Ex-factory date (on PO)
      S tyle # S S 2019NY                                                             Merchant                       Ex-factory date(as per plan)        20-Dec
      Fabric Details: 100 % Cotton, Plain Woven, S olid Dye fabric,                                                   Manufacturing
      145 GS M                                                                                                            Country        Patna , India
      S tyle Description : S hirtS S 2019                                             Recvd Date       23-Aug        Lead Time (days)                     119
                                                                                      S hipment
      Destination Port : New York-US A                                                Port          Kolkata, India    Buyer Countrty    US A
Sl                                                             Planned     Planned Duration Actual Actual Duration                                       Remak
No                        Key Processes                           Start      End    (days)   start  End (days)          Responsibility                     rs
 1    Buyer Enquire and specification (proto kit)received        1-Jun-18
 2    Pattern is made according to specification                 4-Jun-18                                          CAD Incharge
 3    Proto sample submission                                    9-Jun-18                                          Merchant
 4    Proto Sample Approval                                     29-Jun-18
 5    Order Confirmation                                        29-Jun-18        28
 6    Trims and Art work sent for approval                     14-Jul-18                                           Merchant
 7    Lab dip send for approval                                14-Jul-18                                           Merchant
                                                                                                                   Store Mngr.
 8    Request for sample of trim and fabric send
                                                                30-Jun-18                                          (Fabric/Trim)
                                                                                                                   Store Mngr.
 9    Sample lot of trims entered in store
                                                                 20-Jul-18                                         (Fabric/Trim)
                                                                                                                   Store Mngr.
 10   sample lot of finished fabric (yardage) enterd in store
                                                                 22-Jul-18                                         (Fabric/Trim)
 11   Metting with sampling and all other departments            20-Jul-18                                         Merchant
 12   Fit Samples sent to buyer                                  27-Jul-18                                         Merchant
 13   Approval of Fit Sample                                  22-Aug-18
 14   Sales man Samples sent to buyer                            27-Jul-18                                         Merchant
 15   Apprval of salesman sample                               22-Aug-18
                                                                                              55
 16   PO raised by buyer                                       23-Aug-18
 17   Trim & Art work appoved                                  19-Aug-18                                           QC
 18   Approval of Lab dip                                      20-Aug-18
 19   Consumption calculation                                  21-Aug-18                                           Pattern master
 20   BOM generation                                           23-Aug-18                                           Production Manager
      P.O. raised for fabric & trims by merchandiser sourcing                                                      Store Mngr.
 21
      team                                                     26-Aug-18                                           (Fabric/Trim)
 22   FPT sent to buyer                                        31-Aug-18                                           Merchant
 23   Approval of FPT                                          15-Sep-18
 24   AD/Photo shoot samples sent to buyer                     29-Jul-18
 25   Approval of AD/Photo shoot                              22-Aug-18
 26   All fabric Inhouse                                         3-Oct-18                                          Store Mngr.
                                                                                                                   Store Mngr.
 27   All trim Inhouse
                                                                 1-Oct-18                                          (Fabric/Trim)
                                                                                                                   Store Mngr.
 28   Fabric & Trim Quality & quantiti Measured
                                                                 5-Oct-18                                          (Fabric/Trim)
 29   Size st Samples sent to Buyer                             8-Oct-18                                           Merchant
 30   Approval of size Set sample                             25-Oct-18
 31   GPT submitted to buyer                                     8-Oct-18                                          Merchant
 32   GPT apporved by buyer                                    30-Oct-18                                           Merchant
 33   Planned Cut date                                         31-Oct-18                                           Production Manager
 34   Cut Panels send to embriodery                             1-Nov-18                                           Production Manager
 35   Embroidery Completed                                      7-Nov-18                                           Production Manager
 36   Re-cutting/shaping                                       23-Dec-18                                           Cutting incharge
 37   Fabrication/stitching                                    26-Dec-18                                           Production Manager
 38   Pre-Production Meeting                                    6-Nov-18                                           Merchant
 39   Pilot run                                                 8-Nov-18
 40   PP sample sent to buyer                                   8-Nov-18                                           Merchant
 41   Approvalof PP sample                                     12-Nov-18
 42   Production Start date                                   15-Nov-18                                            Production Manager
 43   TOP samples sent to buyers                               17-Nov-18                                           Merchant
 44   TOP sample approval                                      21-Nov-18
 45   Production End date                                      15-Dec-18                                           Production Manager
 46   Finishing & Packing Starts                               17-Dec-18                                           Finishing Incharge
 47   Finishing & Packing Complete                             18-Dec-18                                           Finishing Incharge
 48   Buyers Quality Audit                                     19-Dec-18                                           QC
 49   Shipment sample sent to Buyer                            19-Dec-18                                           Merchant
 50   Ex Factory                                               20-Dec-18                                           Logistic Manager
 51   Ex Country                                               26-Dec-18                                           Logistic Manager
*All dates given are assuming Sunday as weekly holiday.
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Gantt Chart (Planing Board)
Importance of TNA
The importance of TNA can be summarized.
       1. It helps to streamline the pre-production activities.
       2. Easy understanding of order processing.
       3. Clear understanding of timelines given by buyer.
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       4. It gives the clear idea about the minor or sub activities that need to perform during order
           processing at different level.
       5. TNA gives the idea about the status of running order and talks about delay or deviation, if
           any
       6. TNA gives the dates at which raw material need to be sourced, in a way it helps to optimize
           the inventory.
       7. TNA also reduces the risk of delivery delay.
Factors need to be considered while preparing TNA:
       1. Production capacity of plant
       2. Style type of merchandise
       3. Festivals of manufacturing country
       4. Holidays
       5. Shipment details
       6. Festivals of country from where raw material is imported
       7. Logistics facilities
       8. Lead time estimated by buyer
       9. Style complications
       10. Fabric and trims manufacturing complications
       11. Buffer required from each department
       12. Political stability of the country
       13. Flexibility of freight forwarder
       14. Response time from buyer at different stages
       15. Lead times of various activities like L/C payment, custom clearance, etc
       16. Cut off dates for shipments
Importance of key activities in TNA
1. Sampling:
Sampling is the most crucial task and hence need to plan in TNA very carefully, some sampling stages
are very important so any deviation or delay in that will affect the whole TNA.
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 Sl. No                          Key Processes                           Planned
                                                                           Date
       3 Proto sample submission                                          9-Jun-18
      4   Proto Sample Approval                                          29-Jun-18
      5   Order Confirmation                                             29-Jun-18
     12   Fit Samples sent to buyer                                      27-Jul-18
     13   Approval of Fit Sample                                        22-Aug-18
     14   Sales man Samples sent to buyer                                27-Jul-18
     15   Approval of salesman sample                                   22-Aug-18
     16   PO raised by buyer                                            23-Aug-18
Proto sample: The submission of proto sample totally depends upon buyer’s enquiry date. Any delay
in proto submission or approval will affect order conformation date, which will subsequently affect the
submission of fabric development and fit sample, as without proto approval it’s impossible to proceed
further. In sample TNA it is shown that the planned proto submission date is 09-06-2018 and planned
approval date is 27-06-2018, i.e. 15 working days are kept for proto sample approval.
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Fit sample: After approval of proto sample manufacturer starts working on fit sample, that needs to
submit exactly as planned date. Any delay in fit sample submission will cause the delay in P.O., size
set sample submission. Fit sample must submit within 45 days of proto approval as to get the sample
of bulk fabric it takes 20-25 working days to get in-house; hence after approval of proto sample i.e. on
27-06-2018, the planned fit sample submission date is 27-07-2018. Sometimes fabric suppliers are
nominated by buyer or buyer will supply the fabric in either case it may not take more time. Hence, in
time and action calendar approximate 1 month gap is shown between proto sample approval and fit
sample submission. Buyer must give the comments on fit sample within 7 days. Any delay from buyer
side will directly affect the further process. To make fit sample process to complete within time
period, the planned approval date for fit is 22-08-2018 i.e. 21 days or 3 weeks is kept deliberately
between first fit submission and approval, in order to accommodate failures and re submissions of fit
sample.
AD/Photo shoot/Salesman sample: These samples are generally submitted parallel with fit
sample. The same period is allotted to salesman sample i.e. 21 working days in TNA. These samples
mainly used for advertising or for visual merchandising or by sales man to collect the order from
retailers; hence from buyer’s perspective, timely submission of these samples is very important. Order
size mainly depends on this sample and any delay or quality issue in sample can reduce the order size.
Sometimes buyer may ask more number of samples e.g. 100 pieces, in that case merchandiser must
keep in mind the capacity of sampling room, time required to complete the demand of buyer, style
complexity and buyers submission date while making the TNA.
 Sl. No                          Key Processes                           Planned
                                                                           Date
     29   Size st Samples sent to Buyer                                    8-Oct-18
     30   Approval of size Set sample                                     25-Oct-18
     31   GPT submitted to buyer                                           8-Oct-18
     32   GPT approved by buyer                                           30-Oct-18
     33   Planned Cut date                                                31-Oct-18
     34   Cut Panels send to embroidery                                   1-Nov-18
     35   Embroidery Completed                                            7-Nov-18
     38   Pre-Production Meeting                                          6-Nov-18
     39   Pilot run                                                       8-Nov-18
     40   PP sample sent to buyer                                         8-Nov-18
     41   Approval of PP sample                                          12-Nov-18
     42 Production Start date                                            15-Nov-18
     43 TOP samples sent to buyers                                       17-Nov-18
     44 TOP sample approval                                              21-Nov-18
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Size-set sample: This stage of sampling is most important, without size set approval bulk fabric for
production should not be cut in order to accommodate any changes by the buyer in the bulk
production. So, any delay in size set sample will directly affect PCD and subsequently affect the
shipment date. Size set sample need to submit with actual bulk fabric, hence for timely submission of
size set sample merchandiser should make sure that all bulk fabric should be in-house well in advance
of size set submission date. To avoid the delay, as soon as bulk trims and fabrics are get in-house
within 3 days size-set sample can be produced and submitted to buyer for approval. As per TNA, in
table no. 2, planned submission date of the size-set sample is on 08-10-2018 and expected approval is
on 25-10-2018 i.e.15 working days are kept for completion of size set sample approval process.
GPT sample: Before submission of PP sample it is very necessary that Garment Performance Test
should be cleared from buyer. This sample sent to either third party inspection or in-house testing lab.
While preparing the TNA merchandiser must keep in mind that test results should get approved from
buyer well in advance of PP meeting. For approval of GPT 20 days are kept in TNA to deal with any
delay in the process. Further, to avoid the delay in submission of PP sample and PCD, GPT is
happening along with Size-set sample i.e. from 08-10-2018 to 30-10-2018.
Pilot-run: Before going for actual production pilot run is carried out, in order to see the
complications in actual production and to give the sufficient time for learning curve of operator on
sewing floor. In TNA preparation one day is kept for pilot run for smoother and uninterrupted
production. As soon as first few lots are cut, make sure that they will immediately send for
embroidery. Hence cut panels are available on time for pilot run. In sample TNA PCD is on 31-10-
2018 while pilot run is planned on 03-11-2018, i.e. one day gap is kept for embroidery of cut panels
for pilot run. Pilot run can be conducted before or after PP Meeting.
Pre-production PP meeting and sample: Preproduction meeting is very necessary part of any
export order processing; hence merchandiser keeps one day only conducting PP meeting, in order to
discuss the expected difficulties during production. Any delay in this meeting or if more obstacles are
there to solve in production will directly affect the PCD and ultimately results in shipment delay.
PP sample need to submit within 10 days after approval of size-set and GPT samples. As without
approval of PP sample production should not start. To maintain the PCD merchandiser should be very
careful while preparation of TNA for PP sample. PP sample is normally pooled out from pilot-run,
hence submission date for PP sample is 03-11-2018 and approval date is 12-11-2018 i.e. 6 working
days gap is kept for PP sample.
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Top of production sample: As soon as production starts and first few pieces are come out of line
TOP sample need to submit to buyer. It’s very crucial stage where merchandiser must keep in mind
that by any reason TOP sample get rejected then production end date is going to be delayed. This can
straight way affects the shipment date. In sample TNA, it is shown that sample is submitted on 17-11-
2018 and planned approval date is 21-11-2018.
2. Fabric and trim sourcing:
Fabric and trim sourcing is very time consuming process which includes desk loom and lab-dip
approvals, trim and art work approval, FPT approval. The fabric sourcing itself will take lead time of
30-60 days depending upon type of fabric. For yarn dyed fabric it takes approx. 45 day, for piece dyed
fabric it take approx. 30 days and for fiber dyed fabric it takes approx. 55-60 days. In sample TNA, it
is assumed that fabric used is solid dyed hence 30 days lead time is considered while preparing the
TNA, trims also takes the approximate 30-45 days depending upon from where trims are getting
sourced. Hence while designing the TNA for sourcing the following activities need to keep in mind.
 Sl. No                           Key Processes                             Planned
                                                                              Date
      4   Proto Sample Approval                                              29-Jun-18
      6   Trims and Art work sent for approval                               14-Jul-18
      7   Lab dip send for approval                                          14-Jul-18
     17   Trim & Art work appoved                                           19-Aug-18
     18   Approval of Lab dip                                               20-Aug-18
     21   P.O. raised for fabric & trims by merchandiser sourcing team      26-Aug-18
     22   FPT sent to buyer                                                 31-Aug-18
     23   Approval of FPT                                                   15-Sep-18
     26   All fabric In house                                                 3-Oct-18
     27   All trim In house                                                   1-Oct-18
     28   Fabric & Trim Quality & quantity Measured                           5-Oct-18
                                          Exhibit 1: Textile Supply Chain
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Fabric approvals: With approval of proto sample, merchandiser needs to submit lab-dip for color
conformation. Lab-dip approval itself is a long process, as development of shade and submission itself
will take 10-15 working days for one attempt, hence for after 15 days of proto approval Lab dip is
submitted. Hence while preparing the TNA merchandiser must keep in mind that, complexity of
shade, buyer’s specification etc. any delay in lab-dip submission will end up with fabric production
delay, which will results in delay in; Size-set sample submission. Hence to avoid the delay in TNA 30
working days buffer is kept from submission date i.e. 14-07-2018 to planned approval date i.e.20-08-
2018.
Trims and art work: Trims and their art work are other important factors of sourcing department
after fabric. Timely approval of trims is very necessary. Trim production and shipment is also time
consuming process, especially if it is imported, hence while preparing the TNA 25 working days
buffer is kept between submission date i.e.14-07-2018 and approval date13-08-2018.
Fabric Performance Test FPT: Before fit sample submission date FPT report must be approved by
buyer, as fit sample submitted in similar fabric. As without approval of FPT fabric supplier can’t ship
the fabric to garment manufacturer. Any delay in FPT submission in will cause in fit sample
submission and may show impact on fabric in-house date which will subsequently affect the size-set
submission date.
3. Production
The most crucial part of any TNA is actual production. While preparing the TNA for production
following activities need to consider.
 Sl. No                          Key Processes                           Planned
                                                                           Date
     33   Planned Cut date                                               31-Oct-18
     34   Cut Panels send to embroidery                                  1-Nov-18
     35   Embroidery Completed                                           7-Nov-18
     42   Production Start date                                         15-Nov-18
     45   Production End date                                           15-Dec-18
     46   Finishing & Packing Starts                                    17-Dec-18
     47   Finishing & Packing Complete                                  18-Dec-18
Planned Cut Date: The most important date for both sourcing and merchandising department. Most
of the time, TNA is prepared by keeping PCD in mind. To achieve the PCD on time sourcing
department plays important role, as lead time of trims and fabric production and availability for
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garment production is controlled by this department. While preparing the TNA expected lead time and
sufficient buffer should keep for sourcing.
As there is embroidery included on cut panels, hence after cutting the cut panels need to send for
embroidery. Considering that embroidery is in-house then 6 working days after PCD to complete the
embroidery need to be consider in TNA. If embroidery is outsourced then accordingly more number of
days can be included in TNA. In some merchandise, washing, printing is required hence merchandiser
need to take care of the lead time requirement for the same including necessary buffer.
Productions start and end date: These two dates are purely depends upon shipment date and
production capacity. As soon as PCD is achieved the production should start immediately after pilot
run and approval of PP Sample. Any deviation in this date will subsequently affect the TOP sample
submission date and shipment date. Number of days required for production is decided by capacity
allocated to that particular merchandise or number of days of available for actual shipment. For
mentioned sample TNA, following assumptions were made while calculating the number of days
required completing the production.
Assumptions:
No. of pieces= 10000
SAM of garment= 28.5 min
No. of M/c= 50
Efficiency = 45%
the calculation for production days can be shown as:
So, if 25 working days needs for production, then production will start on 15-11-2018 and it will end
on 15-12-2018, if only one sewing line of 50 machines is allocated for 10000 pieces.
Finishing and packing: As finishing and packing is equally important, hence as soon as first lot
comes out of production, finishing and packing get started. This can be started parallel along with
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production. In sample TNA, 17-11-2018 is a starting date of finishing and packing, while 18-12-2018
is end date. 3 days buffer is kept deliberately between production date and finishing packing
completion date to avoid any consequences.
Apart from these main activities, following constraints merchandiser should keep in mind while
preparing the TNA for production.
       1. Actual shipment date
       2. Efficiency of production line
       3. Style complications
       4. Operators skills
       5. Start-up loss
       6. Learning curve of line
       7. Finishing and packing capacity
       8. Availability of alternate operators for absenteeism
Any delay in production will directly leads to shipment delay hence for actual production proper
buffer should be allocated in TNA.
Critical Path method for TNA preparation:
Fashion merchandising is a much complicated network of linier and non-linier activities to perform.
Activities performed are interdependent and need of synchronization between succeeding and
preceding activities to make a non-linear process network. The longest chain of activities considering
task dependencies is called critical path. It is a common practice industry to list activities from order
receipt to delivery in linear sequence and assigning time duration to each activity by backward
planning, which is wrong as the activities are never linear since there are lots of parallel activities.
Therefore, the sequence of activities should be drawn either as PERT network or Gantt chart format.
Even though most of the users are aware of the term ‘critical path method’ CPM, CPM may be
elaborated as ‘critical’ means ‘possibility of non-conformance is higher’ as per previous experience;
some even link ‘critical’ with cost involving that activity. Everybody select ‘critical’ activities
hypothetically based on intuition or previous experience or buyer’s milestones and no one actually
makes PERT network of activities and then arrive at CPM.
It was found that in majority of the cases the buyer specifies target dates of key activities and based on
those target dates the manufacturing organization creates their own TNA adding buffer days to ensure
that buyer target dates are not missed. It was also a common practice to have two TNA: one with few
main important activities also called milestone activities that are suggested by the buyer, and another
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one with more number of in-between micro activities in-house activities to exercise control over
macro activities PERT network or Gantt chart should be mandatorily prepared to decide upon which
all activities should be there in TNA calendar. Merchandiser must prepare either and the resultant
critical path should be the activity chain for TNA calendar, all activities falling in critical path are
critical activities. Critical activities should always be on focus, a single minute delay in any of the
critical activities may lead to final shipment delay.
Conclusion:
Garments manufacturing is not a business of ‘One Man Show’ rather it is a Team-Work where lot of
people, organizations, suppliers, buyer, sub-contractors and manufacturers are involved. Moreover, all
tasks have to be accomplished with in a given time frame to ship out the garments on time. Buyer will
not accept any delay in the garments delivery and if the garments cannot be shipped out on time then
there will be good possibility that buyer may cancel the order or may ask for air shipment or Buyer
may ask for discount. To avoid all such adverse situation merchandiser need to do proper planning to
execute any order.
TNA is most important activity for timely shipment. If any merchandiser is able to follow the TNA
properly then it will be not a big challenge to ship the garments on schedule.TNA for any production
unit is summery of sampling, sourcing and production activities and their sub activities. Merchandiser
generally makes the TNA on the basis of lead time mentioned by buyer, shipment date negotiation,
order quantity, production capacity. The milestones and key/critical activities dates are mentioned by
buyer while other in-house activities need to manage by merchandiser by keeping many things in
mind. With the help of TNA merchandisers can ensures satisfaction of each and every step with
constant follow ups and in shortest cycle time possible. Rapidly changing trends of the fashion
industry is making merchandising activities more complicated and so TNA. Merchandiser has to
prepare good and flexible TNA by keeping all facts and facets in mind. If used effectively, a good
TNA can help factory to meet production and shipment deadlines, increase inventory turns, improve
customer service, and enhance profits.
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