Final Report PDF

A
Report on
Apparel Internship
(From 27th May 2019 to 30th August 2019)
at
LAGUNA CLOTHING LLP.
By
Mr. Dhananjay Dev
Ms. Kritika Dhawan
Mr. Vaibhav Kathpalia
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, JODHPUR,

INDIA 342037
OCTOBER 2019
i
CERTIFICATE
This is to certify that Mr. Dhananjay Dev, Ms. Kritika Dhawan and Mr. Vaibhav Kathpalia,
students of B.F.Tech-Semester 7 at NIFT, Gandhinagar has undergone 14 weeks Apparel
Internship at Laguna Clothing LLP, Bengaluru, Karnataka, as curriculum for Summer
Apparel Internship.
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iii
iv
v
DECLARATION
This is to declare that Mr. Dhananjay Dev , Ms. Kritika Dhawan and Mr. Vaibhav Kathpalia,
DFT- VII of batch 2016-2020, have completed their Apparel Internship at LAGUNA
CLOTHING LLP, Bengaluru, under my guidance and their work is original and no part of
the project has been copied from any other source. However, any material taken from any
other published sources has been suitably referred and acknowledged at various places in the
document.
________________
Dr. Ankur Saxena,
Asst. Professor,
NIFT- Jodhpur
vi
ACKNOWLEDGMENT
The success and final outcome of the Internship was not possible without the guidance and
assistance from many people and we are extremely fortunate to have received the same
during the completion of the Internship.
We would sincerely like to thank Laguna Clothing LLP, Bengaluru for giving this opportunity
to work and learn in the Industry. We would like to convey our immense gratitude towards
the management, staff and workers of the company, for their time, selfless help and support in
making us learn and understand everything properly and also for helping us to complete the
projects successfully.
We are highly indebted to our mentors, Mr. Sumit Kharb (Head of Operations), Mr. Shakti
Kumar (Head of Quality), Mr. Mohammad Jawed Akhtar (Co- Founder & CEO at Jaza
Software OPC Pvt. Ltd.) and Mr. Maneesh Kumar (Head of R&D) for their guidance and
constant supervision as well as for providing necessary information regarding the internship
projects and for providing us with their valuable insights & also for their support in
completing the internship project.
We would also like to thank numerous people without whose support; the completion of this
internship would have been difficult. Their consistent support and guidance has been the
standing pillar in the architecture of this report. To begin with, we would first like to thank
the management of NIFT (DFT Department), to experience and learn the processes practiced
in Apparel Industry. Also, we would sincerely like to thank our Internship mentor, Asst.Prof.
Ankur Saxena, Campus Academic Coordinator- BFT, for providing us with continuous
guidance and motivation throughout the span of the Internship.
We also greatly appreciate the support of our fellow internees, who have worked and studied
with us in this duration, acting as a motivation to each one of us.
Our thanks and appreciations also go to the people who have willingly helped us out with
their abilities.
Dhananjay Dev Kritika Dhawan Vaibhav Kathpalia

Student, Student, Student,
DFT-7 DFT-7 DFT-7
vii
PREFACE
The blend of practice and principle- an industrial internship project transforms the
classroom student into a multi-dimensional internee. The real life experiences gathered
through the period helps the pupil to learn practical aspects and application of theoretical
knowledge. It provides a huge positive impact on the student in the spheres of interpersonal
skills, exposure, group work and experimentation.
The Apparel internship at Laguna Clothing Pvt. Ltd. is evidently the experience which
provided the spectrum of psychophysical knowledge and experience.
Our major objectives of study were:
1. To study the working environment of the factory.
2. To study the departmental processes and their interrelation within the organization.
3. To study the Organizational Structure.
4. To carry out project(s) based on objective 1,2 & 3
We have tried our best to sum up the total work process of the factory through observations
and interactions.
viii
ABSTRACT
The fast changing economic conditions such as global competitions, declining profit margin,
customer demand for high quality product, varieties of product and reduced lead time, etc.
had a major impact on manufacturing industries. The demand for higher value at lower price
is increasing and to survive this condition, apparel manufacturers need to improve their
operations through- waste reduction, control production losses, know the root cause for
different types of loss, reduce downtime, easy communication between lower and upper level
of management and so on.
As a part of the curriculum, we have done the departmental study which has given us a basic
idea about the working of the factory and the types of problems they face in their day to day
life.
We have worked on some of the projects in the company with the senior employees having
great working experience in this field at the company that resulted in some remarkable
benefits for the company. By doing the projects, we gained a better understanding of different
process of the industry and also faced some of the challenges coming on in our way of the
project completion and tried to sort the same with the help of every person involved in that
process.
During the duration of our internship, we also got great experience of the corporate life
which we would be probably facing after our college. This was an amazing opportunity for us
to complete our internship duration with actual surroundings and face the real difficulties
being faced by the industry on daily basis.
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Contents
A.............................................................................................................................................. i
CERTIFICATE .....................................................................................................................ii
DECLARATION .................................................................................................................. vi
ACKNOWLEDGMENT ......................................................................................................vii
PREFACE ......................................................................................................................... viii
ABSTRACT .......................................................................................................................... ix
1. ABOUT THE COMPANY ........................................................................................... 8
1.1. VISION ....................................................................................................................... 9
1.2. MISSION.................................................................................................................... 9
1.3. SLOGAN .................................................................................................................... 9
1.4. VALUES ..................................................................................................................... 9
1.5. GENERAL INFORMATION IN NUTSHELL- LAGUNA INDIA .................... 10
1.6. LAGUNA: A WORLD CLASS MANUFACTURING FACILITY .................... 10
1.7. COMPARING PRODUCTION QUANTITY ...................................................... 10
1.8. PRODUCT CATEGORY ....................................................................................... 11
1.9. BUYERS AT LAGUNA .......................................................................................... 11
1.10. ORGANIZATIONAL HIERARCHY CHART- LAGUNA INDIA ................ 13
1.11. DEPARTMENTS IN THE PLANT- LAGUNA INDIA ................................... 15
1.12. PLANT’S FLOOR WISE PLAN- LAGUNA INDIA ....................................... 16
2. ABOUT THE GARMENT ......................................................................................... 19
2.1. SHIRT ...................................................................................................................... 19
2.2. COMPONENTS OF SHIRT .................................................................................. 20
2.3. QUANTITY OF COMPONENTS IN A SHIRT .................................................. 20
2.4. OPERATION BREAKDOWN OF SHIRT........................................................... 21
3. DEPARTMENTS IN THE COMPANY ...................................................................... 23
3.1. FINANCE DEPARTMENT ....................................................................................... 24
3.1.1. DEPARTMENTAL HIERARCHY STRUCTURE ......................................................................... 24
3.1.2. ROLES OF THE FINANCE DEPARTMENT ............................................................................. 24
3.1.3. ROLES OF THE FINANCE DEPARTMENT IN ADMINISTRATIVE FIELD .................................. 25
3.1.4. DETAILED WORKFLOW OF DEPARTMENT RELATED TO PURCHASE ................................... 25
3.1.5. METHODS OF PAYMENT.................................................................................................... 26
3.2. HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT .................................................................. 26
3.2.2. ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES OF DEPARTMENT .............................................................. 27
3.2.3. POLICY FOLLOWED IN THE DEPARTMENT ......................................................................... 29
1
3.2.4. H.R. COMMITTEES ............................................................................................................. 30
3.2.5. MAJOR CONCERN AREAS OF H.R. DEPARTMENT .............................................................. 31
3.3. RECRUITMENT ........................................................................................................ 31
3.3.1. PROCESS OF RECRUITMENT OF OPERATORS- OUTLINE .................................................... 32
3.3.2. PROCESS OF RECRUITMENT OF OPERATORS-IN DETAIL .................................................... 32
3.3.3. RECRUITMENT OF EMPLOYEES ......................................................................................... 33
3.4. TRAINING DEPARTMENT ..................................................................................... 33
3.4.2. TRAINING PROCEDURE ...................................................................................................... 34
3.5. MARKETING DEPARTMENT................................................................................ 36
3.5.2. PROCESS FLOW IN DETAIL ................................................................................................. 37
3.5.3. REACHING NEW BUYERS ................................................................................................... 37
3.6. DESIGN DEPARTMENT .......................................................................................... 38
3.6.1. ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES OF THE DEPARTMENT ....................................................... 38
3.7. MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT ...................................................................... 38
3.7.2. MAJOR ROLES OF THE MERCHANDISERS .......................................................................... 39
3.7.3. DOCUMENTS REQUIRED BY THE MERCHANIDSER FROM THE BUYER ............................... 39
3.7.4. MERCHANDISERS- INTERMEDIATE BETWEEN BUYER AND FACTORY ................................ 39
3.7.5. BASIC WORKFLOW OF THE DEPARTMENT AT DEVELOPMENT STAGE ............................... 40
3.7.6. WORKS OF THE MERCHANDISER ....................................................................................... 41
3.8. PURCHASE DEPARTMENT ................................................................................... 41
3.8.1. DETAILED WORKFLOW OF THE DEPARTMENT .................................................................. 41
3.9. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT.................................................................................... 42
3.9.2. PROCESS FLOW OUTLINE .................................................................................................. 43
3.9.3. PROCESS FLOW IN DETAIL ................................................................................................. 43
3.10. PLANNING DEPARTMENT .................................................................................. 45
3.10.1. DEPARTMENTAL HIERARCHY STRUCTURE ....................................................................... 46
3.10.2. ROLE OF THE DEPARTMENT IN THE FACTORY ................................................................. 46
3.11. CAD DEPARTMENT .............................................................................................. 47
3.11.1. RICHPEACE CAD............................................................................................................... 48
3.11.2. FUNCTIONS OF CAD DEPARTMENT ................................................................................. 48
3.11.3. DETAILED WORKFLOW IN THE DEPARTMENT ................................................................. 48
3.11.4. ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES ......................................................................................... 49
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3.12. WAREHOUSE .......................................................................................................... 50
3.12.2. ERP SOFTWARE AT FACTORY........................................................................................... 52
3.13. BDE DEPARTMENT ............................................................................................... 55
3.13.2. BUREAU D’ ETUDE MEETING ........................................................................................... 56
3.13.3. PROCESS FLOW OUTLINE ................................................................................................ 56
3.14. PRE-RUN DEPARTMENT ..................................................................................... 60
3.14.1. PRE-RUN PROCESS .......................................................................................................... 60
3.14.2. OBJECTIVE OF PRE-RUN PROCESS ................................................................................... 61
3.15. SPREADING AND CUTTING DEPARTMENT .................................................. 64
3.15.4. CUTTING DETAILS OF COMPONENTS .............................................................................. 70
3.15.5. MATERIAL FLOW IN THE DEPARTMENT .......................................................................... 71
3.16. SEWING DEPARTMENT ....................................................................................... 76
3.16.3. MACHINES USED IN THE DEPARTMENT .......................................................................... 78
3.16.4. SUMMARY OF SEWING DEPARTMENT LINE WISE ........................................................... 79
3.17. FINISHING DEPARTMENT .................................................................................. 79
3.17.4. ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES ......................................................................................... 83
3.18. RECUTTING DEPARTMENT ............................................................................... 84
3.19. CUSTOMER SATISFACTION OFFICE- CSO DEPARTMENT ...................... 85
3.19.1. OBJECTIVE OF THE DEPARTMENT ................................................................................... 86
3.19.2. RESPONSIBILITY OF CSO DEPARTMENT ........................................................................... 86
3.19.3. AUDIT BY CSO DEPARTMENT .......................................................................................... 86
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3.20. QUALITY DEPARTMENT .................................................................................... 87
3.20.1. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROCEDURES................................................................................ 87
3.20.2. ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES OF THE QUALITY DEPARTMENT ...................................... 87
3.20.3. QUALITY CONTROL DURING AND AFTER PRODUCTION .................................................. 90
3.20.4. TRAFFIC LIGHT SYSTEM FOR QUALITY CONTROL DURING SEWING ................................ 94
3.21. OUTSOURCING DEPARTMENT ......................................................................... 94
3.21.2. OUTSOURCING AT LAGUNA ............................................................................................ 95
3.21.3. WORKFLOW OF THE DEPARTMENT................................................................................. 96
3.22. INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT ................................................ 96
3.22.4. ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES OF THE I.E. PERSONNEL................................................... 98
3.23. LEAN DEPARTMENT .......................................................................................... 100
3.23.1. 5S & VISUAL FACTORY ................................................................................................... 101
3.23.2. VALUE STREAM MAPPING ............................................................................................. 103
3.23.3. KAIZEN........................................................................................................................... 105
3.23.4. KANBAN ........................................................................................................................ 107
3.23.5. UNIT HANGING SYSTEM ................................................................................................ 107
3.23.6. STYLE CHANGEOVER- SMED .......................................................................................... 108
3.23.7. PULL SYSTEM AND JIT MANUFACTURING SYSTEM........................................................ 108
3.23.8. QUALITY CONTROL CIRCLES .......................................................................................... 109
3.24. SUSTAINABILITY ................................................................................................ 110
3.24.1. SUSTAINABILITY PRACTICES AT THE COMPANY ............................................................ 111
3.24.2. DEPARTMENTAL HIERARCHY STRUCTURE ..................................................................... 111
3.24.3. FOCUS AREAS FOR SUSTAINABILITY PRACTICES ............................................................ 111
3.24.4. WATER MANAGEMENT ................................................................................................. 112
3.24.5. ENERGY MANAGEMENT ................................................................................................ 115
3.25. MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT ...................................................................... 118
3.25.2. OBJECTIVES OF THE DEPARTMENT................................................................................ 119
3.25.3. PEOPLE INVOLVED IN THE DEPARTMENT ...................................................................... 120
3.25.5. RESPONSIBILITIES OF THE DEPARTMENT ...................................................................... 120
3.25.6. MAIN FUNCTIONS OF THE DEPARTMENT IN DETAIL ..................................................... 121
3.25.7. RESPONSIBILITIES OF THE MECHANIC ........................................................................... 123
3.25.8. MAINTENANCE SCHEDULING ........................................................................................ 125
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3.25.9. TRACKING SYSTEM- ANDON.......................................................................................... 126
3.26. LOGISTICS DEPARTMENT ............................................................................... 127
3.26.2. DETAILED WORKFLOW IN THE DEPARTMENT ............................................................... 127
3.26.3. INCOTERMS ................................................................................................................... 128
3.26.4. MAJOR INCOTERMS USED IN THE COMPANY ............................................................... 129
3.27. SEWAGE TREATMENT PLANT ........................................................................ 131
3.27.1. PROCESS FLOW OUTLINE .............................................................................................. 131
3.27.2. DETAILED WORKFLOW IN THE DEPARTMENT ............................................................... 132
3.28. RANGMANCH ....................................................................................................... 132
4.1. IMPLEMENTATION OF FABRIC CUT PLAN OPTIMIZATION
SOFTWARE- OPTACUT ............................................................................................... 134
4.1.1. INTRODUCTION TO THE PROJECT .............................................................................. 134
4.1.2. OBJECTIVE OF THE PROJECT ...................................................................................... 135
4.1.3. PROBLEM DEFINITION ............................................................................................... 135
4.1.4. NEED OF THE PROJECT .............................................................................................. 136
4.1.5. SCOPE OF THE PROJECT............................................................................................. 136
4.1.6. DELIVERABLE OF THE PROJECT .................................................................................. 136
4.1.7 EXISTING APPLICATIONS FOR CUT ORDER PLAN .............................................................. 137
4.1.10 OPTACUT SOFTWARE ................................................................................................ 142
4.2. REAL TIME DATA CAPTURING OF CSO AUDITS ....................................... 168
4.2.1. BACKGROUND ..................................................................................................... 168
4.2.1.1. ABOUT CSO- CUSTOMER SATISFACTION OFFICE. ........................................................ 168
4.2.1.2. WORKING OF CSO DEPARTMENT ................................................................................. 168
4.2.1.3. PRIME AREA OF FOCUS ............................................................................................... 172
4.2.2. PROBLEM IDENTIFICATION ............................................................................ 173
4.2.3. NEED/REQUIREMENT OF A NEW SOLUTION ............................................... 174
4.2.4. A DIGITAL SOLUTION WAS FOUND ................................................................ 174
4.2.5. SCOPE OF THE PROJECT .................................................................................... 175
4.2.6. DELIVERABLE OF THE PROJECT ..................................................................... 175
4.2.7. COMPARING TWO SYSTEMS ON BASIS OF PARAMETERS ........................ 175
4.2.7.1. DETAIL OF EACH PARAMETER IN TWO SYSTEMS. ......................................................... 176
4.2.7.2.EFFORT MATRIX FOR DIFFERENT PARAMETERS ............................................................ 177
4.2.8. DEVELOPMENT OF THE NEW SYSTEM .......................................................... 177
4.2.8.1.TOOLS USED IN DEVELOPMENT .................................................................................... 177
4.2.8.2. CREATION OF A PROTOTYPE ........................................................................................ 181
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4.2.8.3. UNDERSTANDING THE INTERFACE OF THE SYSTEM .................................................... 183
4.3 DESIGN AND DEVELOPMENT OF FOLDER’S CATALOGUE ................. 189
4.3.1. OBJECTIVE ....................................................................................................................... 189
4.3.2. DETAILS OF CATALOGUE ................................................................................................. 189
4.3.3. MANUAL AT GLANCE....................................................................................................... 190
Bibliography ..................................................................................................................... 192
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CHAPTER 1
INTRODUCTION TO
THE COMPANY
7
1. ABOUT THE COMPANY
Laguna Clothing LLP, a manufacturer of formal and semi-formal shirts, jointly promoted by
Tessitura Monti of Italy and Aquarelle of Mauritius. Tessitura Monti is a world leader in fine
count shirting fabric produced in India and Italy. Aquarelle is a major exporter of shirts with
manufacturing facilities in Mauritius, Madagascar, India and Bangladesh.
Laguna Clothing is a 50-50 joint venture company of Tessitura Monti, Italy and Aquarelle
Clothing, Mauritius under their parent company named, CIEL Textiles.
CIEL Textiles is a global fashion player in textile and garments with an agile and innovative
culture. It is a leading manufacturer of premium shirts, fine knits and sweaters with
operations spanning across Mauritius, Madagascar, India (Laguna Clothing & Aquarelle) and
Bangladesh. With an employee strength of over 20,000 and 34 million garments exported
annually, CIEL has developed into a regional one stop shop for textiles, with vertically
integrated business units from yarn spinning to finish garments.
Figure 1: Laguna Clothing LLP, Kanakapura
Image Source: www.justdial.com
Laguna started its first production at Jigani, a rural area in Karnataka in the year 2006, and at
Seegekote village in Kanakapura in the year 2010. Today, the Kanakapura unit of Laguna has
1700 workers and 200 employees, with the company capacity of 14,000 shirts per day. The
actual production of shirts per day by the Kanakapura unit of Laguna is 12,000 shirts per day.
The plant of Laguna in Kanakapura is spread in the area of 1,10,000 square feet, which is
considered to be one of greatest investments in Kanakapura and also acts as a known
landmark in the area. The current lead time of the manufacturing of shirts is 8 days.
The company caters to some of the top brands like Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger,
T.M.Lewin, Hackett, Thomas Pink, Calvin Klein, De Fursac, La Chemise, Jaeger, Benetton
8
Dressmann, Charles Tyrwhitt, Mango Man, Suitsupply, etc. with premium quality formal and
semi-formal shirts.
1.1. VISION
To be recognized by our customers, employees, suppliers and peers as being the best in the
industry.
1.2. MISSION
To provide formal/semi-formal shirts of exceptional quality and unbeatable value to the

world's top retailers and brands.
1.3. SLOGAN
“I Love My Shirt”
Is a beautiful laconic statement, very well elucidating the entire objective of the company.
The company is highly stalwart towards delivering best of best quality to its customers, not
only to their satisfaction level but also puts a lot of workmanship efforts even in minutiae of
the shirts resulting in customer loving their shirts, and this is an utmost sulit.
1.4. VALUES
 Customer focus
 Fun at work
 Innovation
 Excellence
 Respect for people
 Openness
 Integrity
 Speed
 Simplicity
 Ownership
 Team work
 Passion
 Accountability
 Perseverance
 Trust
9
1.5. GENERAL INFORMATION IN NUTSHELL- LAGUNA INDIA
NAME OF THE COMPANY: Laguna Clothing LLP

YEAR OF ESTABLISHMENT: 2006
COO: Mr. Rajesh Kumar
MANAGING DIRECTOR: Mr. Sarabjit Ghose
PRODUCTS OFFERED: Formal and Semi Formal Shirts
MAIN MARKET COUNTRIES: Europe, USA and India
NUMBER OF EMPLOYEES: 1700
NUMBER OF WORKERS: 200
ANNUAL PRODUCTION: 30 lakhs Shirts
ANNUAL TURNOVER: Rs. 350 Crore
Table 1: General Information In Nutshell- Laguna India
1.6. LAGUNA: A WORLD CLASS MANUFACTURING FACILITY

The reason of considering Laguna Clothing to have a world class manufacturing facility:
 Factory: The factory of Laguna is set up with an excellent team, equipment management
system and organization which help in serving the customers up till the level of their
expectations. There are many lean practices going on in the industry which is considered
as the part of their culture that results to strong quality and high productivity.
 Training and Machinery: The ‘Best in Class’ machineries are used, mainly from the
world leading brands like, Juki, Kannegiesser, Veit, Ngai Shing and Brother. The
workers are selected systematically, and trained in such a manner that they can achieve
the level set by the company in their outcome. The workstations in the manufacturing
unit have been specially engineered based on the requirement of that particular operation
using folders, stackers and special purpose machines.
 ERP: The management of order from initial stage till shipping is managed by their ERP
software, named STAGE.
1.7. COMPARING PRODUCTION QUANTITY

The quantities of shirts produced by Laguna at different locations per year are:
 Laguna India: 50,00,000
 Laguna Mauritius: 10,00,000
 Laguna Madagascar: 10,00,000
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1.8. PRODUCT CATEGORY
Classic Fomal Shirts
• Fine Count , Two Ply Cotton, Giza Yarn
• World Class Interlining , Buttons and Threads
• Slim and Tailored Fits
• Library of Collars and Cuffs
• Fine Stitching, upto 12 s.p.i
Semi Formal Washed Shirts

• 50s and 70s Compact Shirt
• Basic Softner Wash Treatments
• Embroidery
Non- Iron Shirts or Wrinkle Free Shirts

•Compact Fabric
•Easy Care
Product Category
1.9. BUYERS AT LAGUNA

The below are the list of some of the buyers of Laguna.
Ralph Lauren Tommy Hilfiger Charles

Tyrwhitt
Mango Man T.M. Lewin De Fursac
11
Hackett Thomas Pink Calvin Klein
La Chemise Jaeger Benetton
Dressman NorthSails Selected
Bestseller Splash IKKS
12
Lerros H&B Blackberrys
Tiger of Moss Bros Suitsupply

Sweden
Figure 2: Buyers at Laguna
Image Source: Internet- Google Images
1.10. ORGANIZATIONAL HIERARCHY CHART- LAGUNA INDIA
Sarabjit Ghose,
Managing
Director
Rajesh Kumar, Ramesh V., Sandeep A Raut,

Chief Operating Financial Chief Marketing
Officer Controller Officer
Management Team
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Chief Operating
Officer
Head of Planning
Head of Manager Head of
and Sr. Manager-HR Head of Design Head- HR
Merchandising Techical Operations
Sustainability
Factory
Factory & Plant
Manager, Head-HR
Head, Ranchi
Bengaluru
Overall Operation Team
Head-Technical
Sr. Manager-
Technical
Sr. Executive-
Assistant Manager-
Manager- CAD Assistant- Techpack Technical Executive- Sampling
Technical
(Outsourcing)
Sr. Executive-
Pattern;; Asst. Jr. Executive- CAD; Executive-
Executive- Technical Assistant- Sampling
Pattern Master; CAD operator Techpack;
Pattern Master
Overall Technical Team
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1.11. DEPARTMENTS IN THE PLANT- LAGUNA INDIA
FINANCE DEPARTMENT
HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT
RECRUITMENT
TRAINING DEPARTMENT
MARKETING DEPARTMENT
DESIGNING DEPARTMENT
MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
PURCHASE DEPARTMENT
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
PLANNING DEPARTMENT
CAD DEPARTMENT
WAREHOUSE
BDE DEPARTMENT
PRE-RUN DEPARTMENT
SPREADING AND CUTTING DEPARTMENT
SEWING DEPARTMENT
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
RECUTTING DEPARTMENT
CSO DEPARTMENT
QUALITY DEPARTMENT
OUTSOURCING DEPARTMENT
INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT
LEAN DEPARTMENT
SUSTAINABILITY
MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT
LOGISTICS DEPARTMENT
SEWAGE TREATMENT PLANT
RANGMANCH
Departments at the Company
15
1.12. PLANT’S FLOOR WISE PLAN- LAGUNA INDIA
Reception
Ground Floor
HR
CAD
Middle Ground Floor-A

Cutting Department Conference
Finishing
Department
Room
Offices
Middle Ground Floor-B

CSO-1
Fabric Performance
Test Pantry
Wash Care Area
Ware House Restrooms
Embroidery
Splitting area
I.E.
Folder Making Depart-
Room ment
Research and
Development Room
Sewage Treatment
Plant
Medical Room
Creche
Security Office
Board
First Floor
Room
Training
Middle First Floor- A
Sewing
lines(1-4) Room
Guest
Middle First Floor- B
Finishing Room
Finishing
Trims
Storage
Pre-
production
Dept
Red Tag
Area
CSO-2
16
Sewing
Second Floor
Lines(5-8)
Finishing Canteen
Third Floor
Finishing RO
Co-
ordinating
Area
Metal
Detector
Room
Red Tag
area-2
CSO-3
Maintenance
Room for
Machines
Floor Wise Plan
17
CHAPTER 2
INTRODUCTION TO
THE GARMENT
18
2. ABOUT THE GARMENT
2.1. SHIRT
 Everybody has at least one shirt in his wardrobe, some have more.
 A Shirt is a garment that is worn on the upper body, that is, from neck to waist.
 They are commonly worn for every day purposes and in particular when you want to
dress up.
 Many people doesn’t know that shirts are one of the oldest garments.
 Nowadays the shirt is a piece of clothing for him as well as for her even if most of the
shirts are manufactured for males.
 The styling and design variations of modern shirts are endless.
 The collar comes in many different cuts and sizes and is very sensitive to fashion fads.
(Tailor Store Sweden AB)
Figure 3: Shirt
Image Source: www.dhgate.com
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2.2. COMPONENTS OF SHIRT
The components of the shirt are shown below in the image:
Figure 4: Components of Shirt
Image Source: www.pinterest.com
2.3. QUANTITY OF COMPONENTS IN A SHIRT
Sr. No. COMPONENT NAME QUANTITY OF

COMPONENTS
1 Front Panel 2
2 Back Panel 1
3 Pocket 1
4 Sleeves 2
5 Cuff- Under and Upper 4
6 Front Placket 1
7 Sleeve Placket- Under and Upper 4
8 Yoke 2
9 Collar 2
10 Neckband- Under and Upper 2
11 Collar Patch (Optional) 2
12 Gusset (Optional) 2
Table 2: Number of Each Component in Shirt
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 The minimum number of panels in a shirt is 21 and the maximum number of panels is
26.
2.4. OPERATION BREAKDOWN OF SHIRT

The below are the operations followed in the company for sewing a shirt:
Sr. No. OPERATION SMV
Collar
1 Hem Band 0.20
2 Neck Band Trimming 0.20
3 Run Collar 0.50
4 Collar Blocking 0.20
5 Top Stitch Collar 0.55
6 Collar Bottom Cutting 0.20
7 Insert Collar 0.40
8 Pick and Turn 0.20
9 Top Stitch Band 0.55
10 Pick and Iron 0.20
11 Notch and Mark Collar 0.20
12 Collar Buttonhole 0.30
Cuff
1 Cuff hem iron 0.20
2 Run Stitch on Cuff 0.60
3 Cuff raw edge trimming 0.20
4 Cuff turning 0.20
5 Cuff Blocking 0.20
6 Iron the cuff 0.50
7 Top stitch cuff 0.50
8 Buttonhole on cuff X 2 0.20
9 Buttonstitch on cuff X 2 0.30
Front
1 Left Panel- Cut and Sew Placket 0.55
2 Neck Trim 0.30
3 Front Placket pressing 0.30
4 Right Placket Hem 0.52
5 Button hole front X 6 0.43
6 Button sew front X 6 0.43
7 Sew Extra Button 0.20
8 Front Placket Label Attach 0.20
9 Front Pairing 0.20
10 Tack Label 0.20
Back
1 Size Label 0.25
2 Main Label Attach 0.3
21
3 Secondary Label Attach 0.3
4 Yoke Attach Manual 0.4
5 Yoke Top Stitch 0.4
Sleeve
1 Small Placket Attach 0.55
2 Sleeve Tacking 0.20
3 Pressing Sleeve Placket 0.19
4 Set and Seal Placket 0.95
5 Trimming Sleeve Placket 0.24
6 Button Hole Sleeve Placket 0.20
7 Button Sleeve Placket 0.20
Assembly
1 Join shoulders 0.60
2 Set collar 0.54
3 Finish collar 0.60
4 Set Sleeve 0.62
5 Sleeve Top 0.56
Side Seam/ French Felting 1+
0.67/0.85+0.55
6 French Felting 2
7 Cuff Attach 0.66
8 Serge bottom full 0.28
9 Bottom hem 0.56
10 Tacking For Button Down 0.40
11 Bartack 0.45
12 Collar button Attach 0.40
Table 3: Operation Breakdown of Shirt
22
CHAPTER 3
DEPARTMENTAL
STUDY
23
3. DEPARTMENTS IN THE COMPANY
3.1. FINANCE DEPARTMENT
 This is the department in the organization that manages the money in the factory.
 The general functions of this department typically include planning, organizing,
auditing, accounting and controlling the company’s finances. (WebFinance Inc.)
3.1.1. DEPARTMENTAL HIERARCHY STRUCTURE
Ramesh V.,
Financial
Controller
Rajendra, Sr. Smruti Ranjan, Nikhil, Asst.

Sujith, Manager-
Manager- Asst. Manager- Manager-
Finance
Finance Finance Finance, Ranchi
Asst. Manager;
Finance
Sr. Executive; Executive Asst. Manager Asst. Accounts
Assistant
Executive
Finance Department
3.1.2. ROLES OF THE FINANCE DEPARTMENT

 The roles of the department are:
o Export Transactions
o Import Purchase
o Domestic Sale
o Managing Monetary Expense
24
3.1.3. ROLES OF THE FINANCE DEPARTMENT IN ADMINISTRATIVE FIELD
Prepares MIS, Budgets And

MIS & Budgeting
Cost Sheets
FINANCE Files Returns And Takes

Audits And Accounts
Cares Of Company Audits
Interaction With Banks,

Income Follow Up
Filling With Income Tax
Courier And Job Work

Treasury
Activities
Payments/ Salary/
Reimbursements
Creditors/ Reconciliations
Roles of Finance Department
3.1.4. DETAILED WORKFLOW OF DEPARTMENT RELATED TO PURCHASE

 After the order is placed by the buyer, a Purchase Order ID is generated.
 The selection procedure of the raw material vendor/ suppliers is done, or the
nominated suppliers are directly contacted for the sourcing of the raw materials.
 After the buyer approves the raw material, the order is placed for its procurement.
 After the trims are received by the factory, the buyer gets 30 days credits for the bill
payment.
3.1.4.1. DOCUMENTS TO BUYER

 For the payment of the bill, the buyer’s bank gets the following documents:
o Invoice
o Packing List
o Bill of Lading
o Certificate of Origins
25
3.1.5. METHODS OF PAYMENT
 The following listed are the methods of the payment in which the buyer can pay to the
vendor:
Advance Payment
• The payment is done by the buyer before the contracted goods are shipped to
them by the vendor.
30/60 Days
• The payment can be done by the buyer after 30 or 60 days of the order
confirmation.
Letter of Credit
• A Letter of Credit is a commercial instrument used as a means of financing
international business transactions.
• The buyer's bank issues the Letter of Credit in the name of 'Laguna Clothing'.
Methods of Payment
3.2. HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT

 A Human Resource Department is a critical component of employee well-being in an
business, no matter how small. (Entrepreneur Media)
 The Human Resource Department deals with people in the company and the issues
related to them such as compensation and benefits, recruiting and hiring employees,
onboarding employees, performance management, training and organization
development and culture. (Heathfield, 2019)
26
Figure 5: Human Resource Department
Image Source: Self
Head HR
Assistant Chief Security Welfare

Medical Officer
Manager- HR Officer Officers
Payroll Jr. Executive- Safety Officer/ Security

Sr. Staff Nurse Staff Nurse
Executive Admin Compliance Supervisor
Human Resource Team
3.2.2. ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES OF DEPARTMENT

The Human Resource Department is responsible for the following activities and fields:
 Manpower Management
 Health and Safety
 Transportation
27
 Pay Slip Issuing
 Batch Meeting
 Feeding Helpers Meeting
 Updating the Value Stream Map
 Grievance Handling- Grievance is the complaint by an employee or worker in written
form, and the Human Resource Department is supposed to handle the same.
(Vocabulary.com)
 Worker Induction
 Work Committee Meetings
 Personal Productive Equipment’s In Charge
 Tracking Manpower
 Updating the Organization Structure
 Overall monitoring of committee meetings
 Conducting Committee Meetings in regards of:
o Canteen
o Health and Safety
o Prevention of Sexual Harassments (POSH)
o Welfare
o Transport
 Induction and Training Schedule for new recruits
 Tracking absenteeism
 Tracking attrition- Attrition refers to the phenomenon of employees leaving the
company. (mbasKooL.com)
 Monitoring Canteen and Crèche
 Meeting of Housekeeping Staffs
 Releasing the appointment letters of staffs
 Issuing different types of official letters and reports
 Overall Statutory Compliance
 Maintaining all the documents related to compliance and filing procedures
 Recording the data for Provident Fund
 Performing the compliance audit
 In charge of the punching process (Zecons) and issuing the punching cards
28
 Muster Roll- This refers to the labour attendance registers maintained at the work
sites. (USLEGAL.com)
 Payroll- This refers to the process by which employees receive their salary. (Davoren,
2019)
 Generating Pay Slips
 Data updation about employees in STAGE- ERP Software
3.2.3. POLICY FOLLOWED IN THE DEPARTMENT

The below listed are the types of policies that are followed in the department. These policies
are then further explained briefly.
Salary Policy
Attendance and Leave Policy
Welfare Policy
Policy in HR Department
3.2.3.1. Salary Policy

 The salary for the operators is fixed on the basis of minimum wages policy followed
in Karnataka.
 The experienced operators receive higher wages based on their years of experience.
 The salary of the staff is fixed depending on their work experience and also by
comparing the pay scale of the employees working at same post prevailing in the
market.
 The Performance Appraisal is done on the yearly basis based on the suggestions from
the immediate managers and HR manager.
 The Appraisal can range from 5% till 16% of the employees’ current salary.
3.2.3.2. Attendance and Leave Policy

 The attendance is registered daily using the Biometric system, in which the
fingerprints are registered for every employee at the time of their joining.
29
 The employees are supposed to punch in the Biometric system once at the time when
they enter into the factory and also when they are leaving the factory.
 The actual timing of entering the factory is 8:45am and the actual time of leaving the
factory is 6:15pm.
 The employee can punch in two hours after the normal time, but this is considered to
be half day absenteeism, and the salary will be deducted accordingly.
 The employee is allowed to enter late by 2 hours just once in a month without getting
his salary deducted.
 The total working days in the factory is 26 per month.
 The target set for the rate of absenteeism by the H.R. department is less than 6% and
the rate of attrition is targeted to be less than 4%.
3.2.3.3. Welfare Policy

 There are activities which are arranged by the H.R. department that engages the
workers also for their welfare. Some of these activities are listed below:
Workers Team Employee Rewards and

•Family Visits •Team Members' Motivation Recognition
•Celebrations Outings Activities •Best Employee's
Team Member's •Quality Control Award
along with family Circles (QCC) •Best Quality Line
Outings Award
•Kaizen Activities
•5S Activities •Best Kaizen Award
•Performance •5S Service Award
Appraisal System •Best QCC Award
•Best Trainer Award
Activities under Welfare Policy
3.2.4. H.R. COMMITTEES

Various Committees are formed by the H.R. team to take care of the welfare of employees.
The different types of committees are:
30
Prevention of
Canteen Transport
Sexual Harassment
Committee Committee
(POSH) Committee
Corporate Social
Health and Safety
Responsibility
Committee
(CSR) Committee
H.R. Committees
3.2.5. MAJOR CONCERN AREAS OF H.R. DEPARTMENT

 The below given is the list of the areas which are the major concern of the H.R.
Department. These areas and the major functions of the H.R. department
Safety
Health
Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR)
Manpower Management
Major Concerns of H.R. Department
3.3. RECRUITMENT
 Laguna hires operators in accordance to the requirement of the company.
 There is a series of tests which a candidate needs to clear to work as an operator.
 No prior learned skills are required.
 Below are the various steps of recruitment.
31
3.3.1. PROCESS OF RECRUITMENT OF OPERATORS- OUTLINE
SCREENING
Document Verification
MEDICAL CHECK-UP
Fitness and health check up
TESTS
Aptitude, Observation, Math
Process of Recruitment of Operators
3.3.2. PROCESS OF RECRUITMENT OF OPERATORS-IN DETAIL

3.3.2.1. SCREENING
 The operators are screened on the basis of their ID.
 They should be 18 years above of age and have valid ID Proofs, without any illegal or
wrong past records.
 This is done by the HR.
3.3.2.2. MEDICAL CHECK UP

 Fitness and an overall medical check-up is done once the document verification is
complete.
 The medical test include tests like eye test, blood pressure check, allergies, any
medical history etc.
3.3.2.3. TESTS
 There are three major tests which are done for recruitment, they are as follows
o Aptitude test
o Observation test
o Math test
 All these tests are time based and are evaluated by the HR; the operator must pass all
the three tests to go further for training.
32
3.3.3. RECRUITMENT OF EMPLOYEES
 The company visits various colleges for placements, an interview is taken, and the
candidates are selected.
 The CV’s are taken into consideration and the CGPA is the major criterion for
interview.
3.4. TRAINING DEPARTMENT

 The Training Department plays a vital role in any industry.
 It is mainly responsible for the training and development of the operators.
 In case of the new recruitment of any employee, they are supposed to do the induction
of the company, which is planned for the duration of first fifteen days. Once, the
induction is completed, the new recruits are explained about their responsibilities after
which the recruit starts working for fulfilling the expected responsibilities.
Figure 6: Training Room
Image Source: Self
33
Figure 7: Training Setup
Image Source: Self
Pushpalatha,
Manager-
Training
Training Training Training

Instructor- Sr. Executive Instructor- Instructor-
Basic Finishing Cutting
General Training
Training
Training Instructor-
Instructor- TV
Instructor Backup
Training Department
3.4.2. TRAINING PROCEDURE

 There are two types of procedures followed in the Training Department.
34
Basic
Training
On Floor
Training
Training Procedure Types
 The basic training includes both theoretical and practical training.

o In the theoretical sessions, the trainer teaches the operators about the following
listed things:
 Parts of a Shirt
 Safety Aspects to be considered during sewing
 Orientation of measurements- About types of unit of measurements
used and their conversions.
 Parts of a machine- used in cutting, sewing and finishing
 Introduction about the attachments used for different operations
 Identification of defects- types of defects in each component
o There are 7 major training tests which are listed below
 Dexterity tests both hand and finger
 Ball and tube test
 Needle bowl
 VASE (Vision Assurance Selection)
 Skill sew test
 Pin board
 Colour Blindness test
o In the practical sessions, the trainer teaches the operators about the flowing
listed things:
 Appropriate sitting postures
 Pedal Control
 Needle Up and Down
 Various Paper Exercises
 Cleaning Machinery
35
 Threading of the machine
 Bobbin Winding
 Changing and Setting Needle
 Setting bobbin in the bobbin case
 Adjustment of SPI (Stitches Per Inch)
 Fabric Exercises
 The On Floor Training includes mock ups, methods, systems and procedures.
 The operators who are supposed to be the machinists in the factory are the basic
training that would include both theoretical and practical training.
 The operators who are supposed to be the non-machinists like, ironers, checkers,
feeding helpers and loading helpers are given the theoretical training as a part of the
basic training and also the On Floor Training.
 The trainees are given training for 21 days and then are sent to the allocated floors for
the job training.
3.5. MARKETING DEPARTMENT

 A Marketing Department is responsible for promoting the business and drives sales of
its products or services. (Johnson, 2019)
 It serves as the face of your company, coordinating and producing all materials
representing the business. (The Hartford)
 It is also supposed to do the necessary research for identifying the target customers.
(Johnson, 2019)
 It is also expected to reach out to the customers, while creating an overarching image
that represents the company in a positive light. (The Hartford)
 It is important to keep a strong marketing department intact in the company regardless
of the economy so as to be visible in the market and keep its sales strong. (Johnson,
2019)
36
Chief
Marketing
Officer
Head of Head of Fabric Sr. Manager- Manager-

Head of Design
Merchandising Sourcing Marketing Marketing
Manager- Asst. Manager- Manager Excecutive Executive-

Manager
Fabric Sourcing Input Quality Design Marketing Marketing
Marketing Team
3.5.2. PROCESS FLOW IN DETAIL
Find Buyers
Once the buyer is satisfied, the buyer remains in contact with the
marketing team for the next 6 months and gives order to them.
The order given to the marketing team is for small quanities, like,
1000 to 2000 pieces.
The production of the small order quantity is done. All the details
about the order is passed through the Marketing team with the
help of some available merchandiser.
Try to retain the customer after knowing the desired style. When
the Buyer is ready to purchase regularly from the company, then
the buyer is passed on to a specific team ofmerchandiser who will
be handling all the orders coming from that buyer.
Process Flow of Marketing
3.5.3. REACHING NEW BUYERS

 Laguna Clothing LLP reaches the new buyers in the following listed ways:
o On receiving recommendations and references from other buyers.
37
o By socializing with the help of the existing buyers.
o Through the agents or third party.
o Through Online Portals.
3.6. DESIGN DEPARTMENT

 The company has a dedicated Design Studio.
 This department has the responsibility of fulfilling all the design requirements of the
all the customers.
3.6.1. ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES OF THE DEPARTMENT

 Propose new products to marketing and merchandising teams based on market
research.
 The development should be done in alignment with feasibility parameters new
products in tune with customer requirements.
 To interact with buyer design team & understand their requirements through regular
call & Video Conferencing and report back to management on regular basis.
 Attend customer visits for seasonal style selection.
 Preparing the seasonal trend, mood board, presentations and collection.
 Fabric and style research and market visits.
3.7. MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

 The Merchandiser is the owner of the account.
 The duty of the merchandiser starts from the order received and ends when the
payment is made.
 They are required to make sure that the product reaches the right quality, right
quantity, right time and right place.
Head of
Merchandising
Assistant
Sr. Manager Manager Manager Merchandiser
Managers
38
Merchandising Team
3.7.2. MAJOR ROLES OF THE MERCHANDISERS

 Understanding the requirement of the buyer.
 Sourcing of the materials and fabrics.
 Select the Range.
 Creating the project.
 Taking the approvals from the buyers.
o Negotiation with buyer.
o Procuring the orders.
o Materializing the order.
 Execution of the order.
 Coordination between production and production planning department.
 Dispatching the shipment.
3.7.3. DOCUMENTS REQUIRED BY THE MERCHANIDSER FROM THE BUYER

 Style Sheets
 Order Quantity (PO)
 Delivery Dates
 Prices
 Destination
 Payment Terms
3.7.4. MERCHANDISERS- INTERMEDIATE BETWEEN BUYER AND FACTORY

 The Merchandiser acts as an intermediate between the buyer and the factory. The
Merchandiser is supposed to collect the following details and provide them to the
factory for initiating the production:
o Developments from the sampling department.
o Consumption unit from CAD department.
o Deciding the style sheets.
o Checking the feasibility of the order with help of the Technical team.
o First level of costing details developed by the Marketing team.
o Fabric from the sourcing team.
o Trims from the purchase department.
39
o Allocation with the Planning team.
o Discussions about the production details with the BDE team in the factory.
o File release from the quality department.
o Shipment discussions with Logistics team.
o Payment discussions with the Finance Department.
3.7.5. BASIC WORKFLOW OF THE DEPARTMENT AT DEVELOPMENT STAGE
Theme decieded by the buyer (Design team of buyer )
Range selection by buyer in laguna
Shares mood boards
Fabric swatch collection according to mood board from mill (lead time- 1 week)
Rewiews the fabric with fabric team
1500 swatches are categorized in the collection for they buyer
Swatch approval bu buyer
Buyer will select the whole collection / send style sheets (1 month for confirmation)
Book capacity with sampling (6 months prior)
Indent release (sampling) includes style sheet , higlighted the critical factors ,trim checklist and
fabric swatches
Sent sample to the buyers
Buyer meetings + vendor - road show presentations to deciedes quantity
Yarn capacity booking from mill (60 days for yarn dyed and 40 days for print)
Feasibility study (smv calculation )
Profit ( finance team + marketing)
Workflow of Department
40
3.7.6. WORKS OF THE MERCHANDISER
 Below are the list of works of the Merchandiser:
o Time and Action Calendar
o Costing with the help of Marketing Team
o Sample Production by Merchandiser
o Planning by Merchandiser
o Fabric Sourcing by Merchandiser
o Merchandiser in Factory
3.8. PURCHASE DEPARTMENT

 The Purchase department deals with all the purchase related to the organization.
 The Merchandising team is directly related with the Purchase department for trims
ordering and development.
3.8.1. DETAILED WORKFLOW OF THE DEPARTMENT

 For any new development, the merchandisers ask for the prices of the trims per
garment from the Purchase team.
 The Purchase team then fills up the price/unit, FOB, exchange rate and duty for the
trims asked by the merchant. Then, these details are also used while doing the
Costing.
 A trim card is then made by the merchant using the original approved trims. This card
is signed by the merchandiser and given to the Purchase Department in order to
continue with its development in bulk.
 The standard lead time for the trims development is 15 days.
 Once, the order is confirmed, the utmost priority of merchandiser is to book the
interlining and try to order for the trims that are to be imported, as they have high lead
time.
 The merchandisers are then supposed to enter the data up till the details required till
Budgeting. This is to be done 21 days prior to the file release date and the purchase
team is notified accordingly.
 The Purchase Orders are then raised by the Purchase department for the trims to the
suppliers.
41
 The Merchandisers is then supposed to take the follow ups from the Purchase
department about the details of the PO raised and the trims in house in order to make
sure that all the inputs are ready on time of the file release date.
 In case of the delay in the trim development/ trim in house date, then the same is
discussed with the merchandiser’s team in the Time and Action Meeting.
 In case of extra trims being ordered, or presence of the trims in the stock of the
factory after the garments are shipped, then the merchandiser is answerable for the
same. In these cases, either the trims are used in the upcoming orders or is written off
with a valid reason.
 For the trims to be used while making the samples, the merchandiser needs to provide
GPO (General Purchase Order) to the purchase team. The GPO is submitted only after
getting the approval from the Head of Merchandising.
3.9. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

 The Sampling Department is in a different location in the main city of Bengaluru at
J.P.
Nagar.
 Total Manpower in Department: 78
 Number of Operators: 62
 Number of Lines in Department: 2
 Purpose of each line:
o Line 1: Development of operators for manual and high skilled works
o Line 2: Salesman Sample. The setup of this line is more like that in the main
factory at Kanakapura.
 Capacity of each line:
o Line 1: 40 garments per day
o Line 2: 100 to 110 garments per day
 Types of Machine in Department: Sewing Machines, Fusing Machines, Straight Knife
Cutting Machine and Band Knife Cutting Machine
 Number of each machine:
o Sewing Machines: 45
o Fusing Machines: 1
o Straight Knife Cutting Machine: 1
o Round Knife Cutting Machine: 2
42
 The Material Handling Method followed in this department is the Progressive Bundle
System.
 The Inspection of the garments is done at the end of line by the Quality Controllers.
 Number of Quality Controllers: 4.
Head of Technical Head-

Merchandising Sampling
Senior Manager-
Manager- Sampling Manager- Purchase
Logistics
Asst. Manager-
Asst. Manager-
Executive- Sampling Purchase; Executive-
Planning
Purchase; Assistant
Supervisor- Executive
Sampling; Asst. - Maintenance; Quality Controllers Executive Stores
Sampling Executive- Techpack
Sampling Team
3.9.2. PROCESS FLOW OUTLINE

 After the order is received as a request from the buyers, the following process is
followed in the Sampling Department while preparing samples.
 The process may somewhat change with different buyers.
3.9.3. PROCESS FLOW IN DETAIL

STEP 1: FEASIBILITY STUDY
 After the order is received as a request from the buyer, the order’s feasibility is
checked on the basis of the style requested.
 The fabric, style and construction of the requested order are checked.
 While checking the fabric, its handling and the defects or problems present in the
fabric is checked. The sample or the tech sheet is prepared and is the responsibility of
the merchant for detailed information about the construction of the fabric. The fabric
43
manager is responsible for taking a decision on the handling the fabric with all the
problems and defects present in the fabric.
 All the details of the style of the garment are checked for its feasibility. If found
feasible, the process proceeds and if the style is not found feasible, then the order is
either rejected or a change in the look and its style is suggested.
STEP 2: SAMPLING STARTS AND SAMPLE DEVELOPMENT

 A formal request for the sample is generated, named as Sampling Indent.
 Patterns are prepared for the requested type of sample.
 The types of sample produced are briefly explained as under:
o Development/Proto Sample: it is the first sample given to the buyer. Proto
sample is made of similar fabric of closest quality of raw material and colour.
In this sample, the aesthetic appeal of the garment is checked.
o Salesman Sample/Photoshoot Sample: Prepared in next 30 to 40 days,
especially for the Multi Brand Outlet Stores for representing the next
upcoming style before the bulk of the style hits the stores. This sample is used
by the sales team of the buyer to enhance the sales of any garment. Buyer
sends this sample in the market through the Sales Person to receive the market
feedback from the customers.
o Fit Sample: Prepared for the checking the fit of the garment. Prepared using
the same fabric with same count is used. This sample is also made to check the
drape ability of the garment. Colour of the fabric may be different. This
sample is made according to the buyer’s measurement sheet where the fitting,
measurement and styling is mentioned.
o Size Set Sample: Prepared for checking the grading of the size of the garment
along with the analysis of the placement of any new embroidery or print. The
level of mitering in case of the checked and striped fabric is also checked.
o Pre-Production Sample: Prepared with all the changes suggested during the
approvals of the prior prepared samples. Sample with all the trims and fabric
from initial bulk is used to produce the pre-production sample. If approved by
the buyer it is used as the sealed sample which is considered as the reference
point for the bulk manufacturing to start on.
44
o GPT Sample: Garment Package Test sample is taken from bulk. This sample
is tested for strength, durability and the other parameters as per the
requirement of the buyer.
o Top Sample/ Shipment Sample/ Reference Sample/Seal Sample: Prepared as
the exact prototype of the piece to be developed as a part of the bulk
production along with the type of packaging that will be done while shipping
the final order.
 Then, the comments from the customers are noted down and sampling is done based
on the comments till the preproduction sample is created with the changes.
 After the finalisation, the pre-production meeting takes place where all the special
requirements during the production are discussed.
 Then, BDE meeting is done at the Technical level.
 Pre-Production Sample and Production file is released from the Sampling Unit.
 The Technical Specification Sheet is produced by the Sampling Department.
 The parts matching requirements are decided and informed before the bulk production
in order to retain the uniformity in the bulk.
 The patterns are prepared by the Sampling unit using the RichPiece Software.
 Then, the interlining colours are decided suiting the final look of the garment.
 The details about the packaging trims and the carton dimensions for final packaging
before shipment are decided by the Sampling Department.
3.10. PLANNING DEPARTMENT

 The Planning department is the very important department in garments industry.
 Production planning is the controlling aspect of the garment industry.
 It involves everything and every task in the process to deliver the products within the
given time.
 So, this department controls the production and manufacturing process determined by
the time frame. (Islam, 2017)
45
Head of
Planning
Central Factory Sampling

Planning Planning Planning
Planning Team
3.10.2. ROLE OF THE DEPARTMENT IN THE FACTORY

 This department helps to build-up strong relationship with the other departments to
obtain maximum output for the factory.
 Once, the order is confirmed from the buyer’s side, the merchandiser is supposed to
inform the planning team at least 1 month before that particular order is expected to
be in the line either of the sampling unit or the factory.
 The main role of the Planning department is to manage the upcoming orders in such a
way that there are no future clashes between the orders having same or nearly same
delivery dates. This planning is done beforehand.
 This department is also required to keep a check on the activities that whether they are
going according to their plan or not, and also try to maintain the same in case of any
delay that has happened.
 They are also supposed to record the reasons for the activities deviating from the
actual plan and try to figure them out well in advance while making the other plans
for the upcoming order.
 Planning team keeps a record of the week-wise/buyer-wise quantity to be loaded in
factory.
 The Central Planning Team is given the responsibility to manage the Loading Plan for
the products being outsourced from different aligned factories.
 The Factory Planning Team is given the responsibility to manage the Loading Plan
for the products being produced in the factory.
 The Sampling Planning Team is given the responsibility to manage the Loading Plan
for the samples to be made in the Sampling unit of the company.
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3.11. CAD DEPARTMENT
 This is the department where the actual base of the garment is prepared, i.e., the
patterns are made and rectified.
 It is here that the details on the specification sheet are converted into a garment.
 The CAD Software being used at Laguna Clothing is Richpeace.
 The department has two plotters and two pattern cutting machines.
Figure 8: CAD Department- Pattern And Marker Making Area
Image Source: Self
Figure 9: CAD Department- Plotter Area
Image Source: Self
47
3.11.1. RICHPEACE CAD
 Richpeace Garment CAD is mainly used in fashion industry.
 It is especially used for making the patterns, grading and marker making.
 This CAD system is easy to operate and study.
 Using this CAD system helps in improving the work efficiency and product quality.
(Richpeace Group Co. Limited)
3.11.2. FUNCTIONS OF CAD DEPARTMENT

 Once the order is confirmed, the CAD Department is supposed to perform the below
listed activities:
o Costing Confirmation
o Development of Patterns
o Preparation of patterns required for Pre Run.
3.11.3. DETAILED WORKFLOW IN THE DEPARTMENT

 Firstly, the soft copy of the patterns is received from the Sampling Department.
 They use a roll planning software for assuring a better fabric utilization.
 Before, a buyer approves a style for the bulk production; the cutting department
receives a pre-production sheet which consists of instructions for the cut plan of the
pieces to be developed at the pre-production stage.
 There are two types of order received, one includes the wash programme and the
other includes the non-wash programme.
 In case of the order with non-wash programme, single garment of any random size is
supposed to be prepared.
 In case of the order with wash programme, one garment of each size is to be
developed.
 These pieces are then sent to the buyer for approval.
 When an order is confirmed, the CAD team releases the markers for the Pre- Run
Samples that is mainly used for verifying the patterns.
 The feedback regarding the pre-run marker is given to the CAD team by the cutting
team and then the necessary amendments are made by the CAD team as per
requirement and then the CAD team releases the marker that will be used for bulk
production.
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 The Cut Plan is then made by the CAD executive which is then sent to the respective
merchant for approval.
 Once the cut plan is approved by the merchant, it is then released for sending to the
Cutting Department, based on which the fabric is obtained by the cutting department
from the warehouse.
 Then, a lay plan is prepared and released which is then given to the lay-in-charge.
 The lay plan consists of the following information:
o Number of ways
o Number of plies
o Lay order
3.11.4. ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES

The below are the list of the roles and responsibilities being played by the mentioned
individuals:
PATTERN EXECUTIVES
 Need to review the styles and clear the doubts at the development stage of the order to
avoid problems during the bulk production.
 Need to understand the requirement of production during the pre-run stage and make
the necessary correction at the same time.
 Need to understand the requirement of the buyer and try to achieve great accuracy.
 Supposed to provide the patterns for the production of the pre-run samples and also
for the bulk production with accuracy and on time.
 Supposed to provide the die patterns when required and also to find out the similarity
between the old die pattern and the new one, to avoid the loss in the lead time.
 Monitor the CAD section for timely input of the patterns to avoid the delay in the
production of the garment.
 Need to coordinate with all the pattern master to understand the buyer’s instructions
to implement them in bulk production.
CAD EXECUTIVES:
 Need to follow up for the information provided by the team leader.
 Supposed to provide the cut plan and marker to the cutting department on time.
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 Tries to achieve marker efficiency of 91% in case of solids, 89% in case of stripes and
87% in case of checks.
 Try to provide quality markers in order to avoid wastage of time, manpower and
consumables.
 Maintain proper utilization of fabric with the correct amount and maintain zero write-
off (leftover).
 Do a follow up of patterns for bulk cutting with pattern masters.
 Maintain zero rework in CAD department.
3.12. WAREHOUSE
 Warehouse is a storage structure constructed for the protection of the quality and
quantity of the stored materials until they are utilised.
 In its simplest form, “warehousing” is the storage of goods until they are needed. (BS,
2015)
 The warehouse of Laguna Clothing LLP is spread in the area of 7282.05 square feet,
in the Kanakapura campus.
 It has the capacity to store both trims and fabrics.
 The fabric is sourced from different mills at many locations, like Kolhapur. The main
mill providing the fabric for Laguna is Monte India and Monte Italia. The Monte
group of companies is a partner company of Laguna Clothing, which serves 80% of
the fabric to the company.
 The sewing trims are generally imported from other countries, and the packing trims
are sourced from the local vendors.
 The company has appointed their nominated Quality Auditors at the supplier’s facility
to reduce the amount of defects that come in.
 The capacity of the warehouse at the factory is 2, 70,000 metres.
 The amount of fabric received per day is approximately 40, 000 metres.
 The approximate amount of fabric that is rejected per year is approximately 1,800
metres.
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Figure 80: Warehouse
Image Source: Self
Head- Supply Chain
Gangadhar B, Assistant C Shankar, Sr. Manager-

Manager- Warehouse Logistics
Fabric Executive, Trims

Executive, Trims Sr. Executives, Assistant
Outsourcing Executives, Manager, Assistant
Konankunte Warehouse
Warehouse Team
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3.12.2. ERP SOFTWARE AT FACTORY
 The ERP Software used in the factory is STAGE.
 In this software, all the ERP related activities are conducted.
 The IT team in the factory helps to provide the solutions to the day-to-day system
related activities.
 A formal STAGE training is given to all the new inductees by the IT team. Once, the
training is complete, a test is conducted and the employee has to clear the test in order
to get the ERP Stage access.
 The STAGE ERP Software is an end to end solution for the Apparel, Textile,
Accessories Manufacturing, Processing and Retail Industry.
 This software has been helping the companies in streamlining the operations, which
results in improving the profit margins and try to keep the control over the business.
 This ERP software has been implemented at many leading Apparel and Textile
companies situated across India, Bangladesh, Indonesia, Ethiopia, Singapore and
Cambodia. (STAGE ERP Software (Ecotech Software Pvt Ltd))

 Once the confirmation for an order is received and the CON No. for that particular
order is generated, the Purchase department raises a Purchase Order for the quantity
of the fabric to be ordered from the supplier.
 The lead time for the fabric sourcing is 60 days, which means the fabric should be
received within 60 days of ordering the fabric from the supplier.
 The fabric is inspected by the nominated Quality Auditor at the manufacturing mill. In
the mill, only 10% random inspection of the fabric is done and if the inspection of the
fabric is passed, that is it scores less than 30 points/ 100 linear metre that fabric is sent
to the factory.
 According to the loading plan, the fabric should be received 15 days before the
planned loading of the components to the sewing line.
 However, the company follows the concept of Just In Time (JIT), which brings down
the inventory for:
o Fabric to 8 days
o Trims to 12 days
o Interlining to 5 days
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o Cartons to 2-5 days.
3.12.3.1. FOR FABRIC

 Once the goods are received by the warehouse, Goods Received Note (GRN) is
prepared by the Executive in the warehouse.
 The fabric is then sent for inspection. The percentage of the inspection depends on the
type of the fabric to be inspected. The below given is the list of the percentage to be
checked for the listed fabric:
o Yarn dyed: 10%
o Piece dyed: 30%
o Printed Fabric: 20% to 40%
o White Fabric: 100%
 The following types of fields are considered during the inspection:
o 100% Width Inspection
o Shade Grouping
o Making Shade Cards
o Shrinkage Test
o Fabric Inspection
 The fabric rolls which have length of less than 40 metres are labelled as the Shortage
Rolls. The number of this type of rolls should not exceed 2% to the total number of
rolls for the order.
 The type of inspection system followed in the factory is 4-Point System and the
acceptable score of the fabric is up to 30 points/ linear metre.
 After the inspection, based on the number and the size of the defects, points are
allocated to the defects. Depending on the points, the fabric is considered to be passed
in the inspection if the total points is less than or equal to 30 points/ linear metre, or
else the fabric is considered to be rejected.
 After the inspection at the factory, the results given by the supplier’s inspection team
is verified with the one prepared by the in-house inspection team. Then, depending on
the conclusions of the verification, the mill is contacted and improvements are
requested in order to continue purchasing the fabric from them.
 After the procedure related to the inspection of the fabric is over, Goods Inspection
Note (GIN) is prepared.
 The fabric rolls are then placed on the allotted racks in the warehouse.
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 After the details are fed in the STAGE- ERP Software, the cut plan is prepared by the
CAD team and is then sent for approval to the concerned merchant and is then sent for
approval to the concerned merchant.
3.12.3.2. FOR TRIMS

 The trims that are generally ordered are listed below:
o Buttons
o Hang Tags/ Sealer
o Labels (Wash care, Main, Secondary and Size)
o Interlining
o Backbone/ Support
o Polybag
o Collar band
o Butterfly
o Collar Bone
o Metal Clips
o Cuff Links
o Carton Box
o Barcode Sticker
o Carton Sticker
o Tissue Paper
o Foam.
 As the procedure followed in case of the Fabric, the same is followed in case of trims.
 The trims are planned to be received from the supplier 30 days (when no JIT was
followed) prior to the date planned for the loading in the sewing line. With the
concept of JIT, the inventory time is reduced to 12 days for trims, and 2 to 5 days for
cartons.
 Then, the Goods Receipt Note (GRN) is made when the trims are received by the
warehouse, in the same as in the case of the fabric.
 The trims are then inspected for quality.
 After the inspection of quality for the trims, the Goods Inspection Note (GIN) is
prepared by the executive as in the case of the fabric.
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3.12.3.3. BIN PREPARATION
 Once the GIN is made, the process of bin preparation starts. In this process, the trims
are segregated based on the CON number.
 All types of trims that is to be used in one CON number is placed in one bin.
 These bins are then sent to the sub stores of the respective floors having that particular
line allocated for the order in the bin.
o On the first floor, there are four lines numbered 1, 2, 3 and 4.
o On the second floor, there are four lines numbered 5, 6, 7 and 8.
 The bins are sent to the sub-stores 10 days before the planned date of loading that
order on the sewing line.
 The bins are issued to the respective lines depending on the loading plan.
3.13. BDE DEPARTMENT

 The BDE Department is the Risk Analysis department of the factory.
 When a new order comes to the factory, the merchandiser informs the Planning team
about the same at least before one month to the date of loading, when a Style Clashing
sheet is formed to overcome the issues coming up due to the Infrastructural
constraints.
 The garment in the order for which the planning is being done, is checked on for 26
parameters, and then is rated accordingly showing its level of complexity.
 The rating of the garment is done using the numbers from 1 to 10, where rating of 1
represents that the garment is easy to make and rating of 10 represents that the
garment is complex.
 For the garment rated from 5.5 till 10, the mocks of the garments are produced in
order to make sure that the garment can be produced by the factory, and these mocks
are approved by the Quality department. These mocks are also used for training in
case of the garments to be made in the future order similar to the mock.
 This department is also responsible for conducting a meeting named as Bureau D’
Etude Meeting (BDE Meeting).
55
Asst. Manager-
Planning
Executive
Executive BDE
Technician
BDE Team
3.13.2. BUREAU D’ ETUDE MEETING

 The purpose of this procedure is to study different styles and technical/quality team
among factory in order to:
 Forecasts potential high risks and derive preventive actions in order to ensure that
they do not materialise during the bulk production.
 Ensure that all the garments leaving the factory have been analysed and modified
where appropriate with professional. Also, to ensure that the technical explanations
are provided to the customers related to the modifications. This is done for the aim to
produce the World Class Shirt, at the best productivity and quality with the minimum
risk of the quality issues.
Preparations- Before Meeting
Meeting
Meeting Follow Up
Outcome
General Meeting
Process Flow of BDE Department
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3.13.4.1. MEETING PREPARATION- BEFORE MEETING
 When the order is confirmed via the Marketing Department, a Bureau D’ Etude
Meeting shall be held 1 month before the planned loading date.
 For this meeting, a memo is issued to all the concerned participants 2 days before the
meeting. In this memo, all the details of the meeting like date, time, venue of the
meeting, and the style to be reviewed in the meeting is mentioned.
 A list of the orders is prepared which is planned to be discussed in the scheduled
meeting, mentioning all the relevant details.
 The Technical Specification sheet for all the planned orders is sent to the respective
Technical Head preferably 2 days prior to the meeting so that they can get prepared.
3.13.4.1.1. PERSONS INVOLVED

 The persons who are required to attend the meeting are listed below:
o Pattern Maker
o Garment Technologist
o Merchandiser
o Factory Manager
o Quality Head
o Line Manager
o Cutting In-Charge
o Finishing In-Charge
o Maintenance Head
o CSO
o Technical Head
o Industrial Engineer
o Printing/ Embroidery Representative
o Wash Plant Representative
o Fabric Representative
3.13.4.1.2. AVAILABILITY CHECK BEFORE MEETING

 The following is ensured for its availability prior to the meeting:
o Samples
o Fabric swatches
o Feasibility Study Sheet
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o Customer Technical Package
o Customer comments, if any
o Any other required documents.
3.13.4.1.3. INFORMATION REQUIRED

 The below listed are the types of information or details that is required to be
assembled before the meeting. The details or information should be about:
o Pattern
o Cutting
o Trims
o Fusing
o Sewing
o Washing
o Packing
o Printing
o Embroidery
o Expected risks.
3.13.4.2. DURING THE MEETING

 The minutes prepared from the previous meeting is reviewed and the concerned
persons are asked to report on the status of the reported minutes.
 Then, the discussions starts about the forthcoming styles listed in the memo.
 The high risks and the quality issues are assumed after discussing the details about the
styles and are highlighted during the meeting.
 This helps to maintain the actions taken and follow up on the improvements.
 The other items that are discussed in the meeting are:
o Availability of the needle gauge, folders, guides and equipment for special
styling. In case of the requirement of any special machine, the Factory
Manager is supposed to be informed.
o Stress on critical operations to avoid workmanship problems.
o Causes and solutions to bottleneck.
o Quality Standard discussed with merchandiser in case of the special issues.
o Any special attention for measurement.
o Packing and Presentation.
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o Any special training required.
 For repeat orders, special attention is given to the problems occurred on previous
orders and then implement the solutions.
 The tasks are assigned accordingly to all the concerned persons.
 All the types of proposals that are highlighted during the meeting are sent to the
merchandiser for sending the same to the customers with clear and precise
explanations.
3.13.4.3. MEETING FOLLOW UP

 The minutes of the meeting are prepared and circulated. In the document having the
minutes, the person responsible for the respective tasks are also stated and a deadline
is set.
 The follow up of the status about the respective tasks are assigned to the responsible
persons.
 All the points that are discussed and the orders with assumed high risks are closely
followed up during the bulk production.
 Customer’s comments is forwarded to the factory if ever there is a non- standard
operation which is supposed to be tackled as a priority.
3.13.4.4. OUTCOME
 The following details are finalized after the BDE Meeting:
o Preventive actions derived from the identified high risks prior to the bulk
production.
o Analysed report of the styles with minimum risks of quality.
o Special folder/ machine needed.
o List of training required.
o Ways of preventing the bottlenecks during the production.
3.13.4.5. GENERAL MEETING

 In case of the details that are not approved or is pending at the Bureau D’ Etude
Meeting stage, a special meeting is held on the site upon the finalisation of the details
with all the concerned participants.
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3.14. PRE-RUN DEPARTMENT
 This department is responsible for the activities done before the bulk production for a
style starts.
 This department carries out a process named ‘Pre-Run Process’.
3.14.1. PRE-RUN PROCESS

 This process is done two weeks before the planned loading date.
 The timing of this process may vary depending upon the availability for the fabric for
this process.
 This process is carried out for the finalisation of the patterns, technical specifications,
accessories, etc.
 During this process, the garments are made up in the same lines in which the bulk
production would be taking place.
 The lines for the pre-run process and the bulk production are kept same to ensure:
o Conformity of the products to the customer’s requirements.
o Ability of the workforce to do the shirts based on the required specifications,
in terms of the training and machinery.
 The Pre-Run process is applicable for all the types of orders, also for the orders that
are repeated.
 In case of Non-Washed Order, 1 piece of basic size and 1 piece of bigger size of any
colour is required. The piece of basic size is enough for rest of the other colours.
 In case of Washed order, a full size set for all the colours is required. The number of
pieces might also depend upon the complexity of the method of making the shirt.
S M L XL XXL
Fabric 1 2 1
Fabric 2 2 1 1
Fabric 3 2 1
Table 4: Pre-Run Sample for Non-Wash Order
S M L XL XXL
Fabric 1 1 1 1 1 1
Fabric 2 1 1 1 1 1
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Fabric 3 1 1 1 1 1
Table 5: Pre-Run Sample for Wash Order
3.14.2. OBJECTIVE OF PRE-RUN PROCESS

 Fine tuning of the patterns, accessories and construction before the initiation of the
bulk production so that the quality, conformity and productivity are optimised.
 Prepare the factory for bulk production of the upcoming orders in terms of the layout,
spare parts, manning, training, etc.
 Prevent the quality issues by finding solutions and amending accordingly.
Preparation of
Pre-Run
Pre-Run
Inspection and
Bulk Release
Process Flow of Pre-Run Department

3.14.4.1. PREPARATION OF PRE-RUN
 The merchandiser is supposed to arrange for the fabric to be sent to the factory for this
process.
 The final pre-run package is sent to the factory. The pre-run package consists of the
pattern and the technical specification sheet along with the Pre-Production sample. In
case the Pre-Production sample is not yet approved by the buyer, then the same Pre-
Production sample sent for approval is sent with the pre-run package.
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 In case of any further amendments after the approval of the sample, a revised package
is sent including the correct Seal Sample.
 All the information in the pre-run package like technical specifications, latest
approved sample and customer technical package is checked for their correlation by
the Factory Pre-Run Coordinator.
3.14.4.1.1. DOCUMENTS REQUIRED FOR PRE-RUN PROCESS

 The Factory Pre-Run Coordinator should have the following documents:
o Approved Sample
o Production Order
o Marker/Patterns
o Technical Specifications
o Sewing and Packing Trims Card/ Trim Album
o Comments on Pre-Production sample
o Pre-production measurement report
o Packing requirement sheet.
3.14.4.2. PRE-RUN
 The Pre-Run package received by the department is checked by the Factory Pre-Run
Coordinator for ensuring the availability of the following at this stage:
o Latest approved sample
o Trim Card/Trim Album
o Packing Trim Card/Trim Album
 The pre-run fabric is then received and is counter checked against the Pre-Run
package before the cutting process starts.
 In case of the orders having prints/ embroideries, the cut pieces are sent to the
printing/ embroidery subcontractors for the printing and embroidery on the Pre-Run
shirts.
 The orders having shirts whose production also requires the contrast fabric, the Pre-
run shirts is produced using the specific bulk contrast fabric.
 Then, the cut pieces are processed in the sewing department.
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 The processing in the sewing department is done using the trims that is agreed. The
substitutes of the trims can be used if the accessories are not available, but the
substitute can be used only for the accessories except the lining, heavy thread,
contrast thread, engraved buttons or any other accessory which are deemed as being
high risks.
 In case of the washed order, the measurements are taken and cross checked against
the technical specifications. The results of this measurement is recorded in the Pre-
production measurement report. Then, the samples of this order is sent to the Wash
Plant.
 In case of the non-washed order, the pre-run samples after the processing are directly
sent to the Finishing department for pressing and packaging.
 The measurements are then recorded in the Pre-Production Measurement book after
the step of pressing, in case of the Non-Wash Order and after the step of washing and
pressing, in case of the Wash Order.
3.14.4.3. INSPECTION AND BULK RELEASE

 The Pre-Run package received by the department is checked by the Factory Pre-Run
Coordinator for ensuring the availability of the following at this stage:
o Pre-Run Sheet
o Pre-Run Approval sheet and Amendment Request sheet
o Production Order
o Sewing and Packing Trim Cards/ Trim Album
 The CON Number and the Style Number is checked on the Pre-Run sheet, Technical
Specification Sheet and Size Specification Sheet, and then compared to the
Production Order to make sure that they correspond.
 The shirts are measured and controlled by cross checking the details in the sheets like
Technical Specifications, Customer Comments and Customer Technical Package.
 In case of the major anomalies detected at the measurement stage in the Pre-Run
stage, a non- wash shirt is sent to the CAD department along with the Pre-Run
Approval sheet to ease the cross-checking process.
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 Then, in the presence of the Technical Head, the shirts are put on the dummy to check
the fit of the sample made. In case, the fitting of the garment is not found to be good,
the root cause is analysed and is sorted accordingly.
 Then, the garment is folded according to the packing instructions of the customer.
 In case of any modification requirement for bulk production, analysed during the
process of Pre-Run, the Pre-Run Approval sheet is filled along with the amendment
request column mentioning all the discrepancies and then get the sheet approved by
the respective Technical Head.
 The pattern is then amended based on the Amendment request mentioned on Pre-Run
Approval sheet.
 The amended pattern is then checked and given to the CAD operator who will be
preparing the markers for the bulk production.
 After the completion of the Pre-Run process, the Bulk Measurement Chart is prepared
and then this chart is sent to the Quality Manager, Sampling Department and Washing
In-Charge.
 Then, the samples prepared during the Pre-Run process in any sub-factory, is sent to
the Sampling Department and the Technical Department for showing them the
amendments.
 From the Sampling Department, the samples are then sent to the respective
merchandiser of that buyer for keeping the sample as the reference.
3.15. SPREADING AND CUTTING DEPARTMENT

 This department has the capacity of 14,000 garments per day.
 It has 195 employees in total.
 There are many types of machines in this department like Straight Knife, End Cutters,
Band Knife, Fusing Machines, and many others.
 The factory is sub divided into four factories, each having 2 lines. Each factory is
allotted with some buyers. Also, each factory has its own designations and
hierarchical structure.
 The main input materials of this department are:
o Main Fabric
o Interlining Fabric
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o Markers: There are two types of markers that can be received by the
department, out of which one is used for the main fabric and the other can be
used for the interlining fabric. Markers give an idea about the lay length.
o Cut Plans: The Cut Plans has the ratio details and the total quantity of the
garment that has been planned for cutting, which can be more, less or equal to
the ordered quantity, depending upon the buyer’s policy.
o Lay Plan: This includes the spreading details of the particular fabric of that
specific order.
Figure 11: Spreading And Cutting Department
Image Source: Self
65
Asst.
Factory
Manager
Asst. Assistant Assistant

Executive Head Welfare
Manager- Manager- Manager- TL- Quality
Cutting Mechanic Officer
Production Finishing IE
Straight Line Quality

Band Knife Supervisor Mechanic Electrician Supervisor
Knife Incharge Controllers
Sub- Factory Management Team (1 Factory) Overview
Cutting Asst.
Manager
Laying Incharge Executive Cutting Darner
Back Up of
Co-ordinator Supervisor Cutters Asst.Cutters Supervisor
Hierarchy of Cutting Department in depth
66
The Cutting Department Along with the fabric,

receives fabric from the Interlining fabrics are the cutting department
warehouse, while directly issued to this also receives markers
referring to the department from the
inspection and shade supplier, as they practice
from the CAD
batching report, as well the system of Just in department, along
as the design approval Time (JIT). with the cut plan and
report. lay plan.
Process Flow Outline

 While the procedures of the production of the marker and the Cut plan for the bulk
production is going on, in the Warehouse, the fabric is received and inspected, after
which the GIN entry is done in the ERP Software being used in the factory, STAGE.
Here, the details of the fabric length and width are also measured and noted. After the
GIN entry of the fabric, the CAD Executive makes the cut plan which is then sent to
the merchandiser for the approval. The length of fabric rolls that are to be taken for
laying are pre-planned in order to reduce the wastage of the fabric.
 After the merchant approval, the cut plan is released to the cutting department and
also, the allocated fabric is obtained by the cutting department from the warehouse.
 Then, a lay plan is prepared and released which is given to the lay-in-charge, after
being checked and cross checked with the markers produced, by the Pattern Master
present in the department itself. The cross checking of the marker is done by
comparing the marker sheet with the:
o Pattern
o Sample
 Then, the marker sheet that was checked by the Pattern Master is placed on the top of
the fabric lay and the cutter cuts the fabric lay according to the marker sheet and
thereby breaking down the fabric lay in to the required components of the shirts.
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o This cutting by the cutter is done with the help of the straight knife cutting
machine. The cutter is responsible for maintaining the required cut quality.
o In case of the solid fabric, the bigger components of the shirt like fronts, back,
sleeve, etc. are fully cut in its exact shape using the straight knife and for the
smaller components, the blocks are cut, not in the exact shape of the
component, which is then passed on to the band knife cutters who cuts these
blocks into the required shapes with great precision.
o In the case of the checked and striped fabric, all the components of the shirt,
whether big or small, are all cut in the form of the blocks, not in the exact
shape of the component, which is then matched by the process for relaying and
cut with precision, wither using the straight knife by the experienced cutters,
or by using the band knife.
o The matching of all the components is also done with the specifications given
in the techpack. The below listed specifications are mostly checked:
 Measurements
 Specifications
 Style
o Feature Line specification requirement is decided according to the request of
the buyer.
o Mostly, in all the cut plans, there are extra piece planned of different
components, which is cut along with all the other components for using it in
case of any defect occurring in that particular component of the shirt.
 The interlining fabric is also cut in the cutting department.
 There are two main types of the interlinings, which are mostly of Woven type. They
are:
o Fusible Interlining
o Non- Fusible Interlining
 For the cutting of the interlining fabric, different markers are made, that is laid on the
interlining fabric and is cut by the Die Cutting Machines. The Band Knife Cutting is
generally not used as it generates heat which may hamper the resin in the fusible
interlining. Though, the non-fusible interlining will not have the same case of getting
hampered, but the same standard procedure is followed for both interlinings.
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 The inspection of each part is done at the end of all the steps in the cutting department
and before these components is loaded on the sewing floor.
o Only 10% of that particular component is inspected in case of the bigger
components cut from the fabric that has less number of defects. In case, the
numbers of defects are high, then the percentage of the inspection is increased
accordingly.
o In the case of the small parts, 100% inspection is done after the process of
fusing and trimming, independent of the amount of the defects in the fabric.
 Then, the numbering and bundling of all the components is done.
 Then, the bundle numbers are generated in the form of a bundle sheet for each
component based on the details of the lay plan. This bundle sheet consists of the
following components:
o Bundle Numbers Details
o Fabric Tags
o Details of the ratio based on the shade variation of the fabric to be cut (issued
by the CAD department).
 The numbering and bundling of the components is doe on the basis of the shade of the
fabric so as to avoid any defects and errors due to shade mismatch of the fabric.
 The shade variation in the fabric may appear as follows:
o Within the same fabric roll, there may be cases of shade variation, like ‘Centre
to Selvedge’ and ‘Selvedge to Selvedge’. This type of the shade variation can
be tackled by making the CSV Marker that is the Centre to Selvedge Variation
marker, which is made according to the shade variation, which may be length
wise or width wise.
o Within the same roll of the fabric, the shade may vary after some length of the
fabric. This type of case is known as Running Shade. This type of the shade
variation can be tackled by making the marker with less number of lays,
reducing the length in one ply that can be planned according to the length after
which the shade changes.
o The shade variation between different rolls of the fabric.
 Then, the bundles are loaded to the sewing lines.
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3.15.4. CUTTING DETAILS OF COMPONENTS
3.15.4.1. SMALL PARTS CUTTING
 The small components of the shirt includes cuff, collar, under collar, collar band,
sleeve plackets and some more depending upon the style requirements.
 The cutting of the small parts has two phases:
Phase 1:
Block Cutting of the small components of the shirt
using the Straight Knife.
Phase 2:
Ready Cutting of the block cuts of the the small
components of the shirt using the Band Knife.
Phases of Cutting Small Parts
3.15.4.2. BIG PARTS CUTTING
3.15.4.2.1. SOLID FABRIC
Ready cutting of Front, Back and Sleeve with Straight Knife
Numbering Cut Parts
Fusing of Collar, Neckband and Cuff
Issued to Sewing Floor with the Bundling Sheet
Process of Big Parts Cutting- Solid Fabric
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3.15.4.2.2. CHECKED AND STRIPED FABRIC
Relay
Yoke Open
Ready Cutting in
band Knife
Block Cutting of Front, Back,
Sleeves and Yoke from Lay
Relay
Front Open
Ready Cutting in
Numbering of Cut Straight Knife
Piece
Relay
Yoke Open
Ready Cutting in
band Knife
Ready Cutting in
Straight Knife
Front Pinning
Front Open
Process of Big Parts Cutting- Checked and Striped Fabric
3.15.5. MATERIAL FLOW IN THE DEPARTMENT

3.15.5.1. SPREADING
 Spreading is a process of superimposing the plies on a horizontal table in a manner
which permits these plies to be cut simultaneously into product component acceptable
for assembly. The systematic way of spreading is as follows:
o First the marker is spread and exact length is marked.
o The marker is removed and the lay paper (brown sheet) is spread on the
spreading table.
o The spreading is done manually by two spreaders on either side of the table
using the end cutters, only if required.
o The type of spreading that is done is NOW FOW (Nap One Way, Face One
Way).
o This is done as per the lay plan. So, the lay length depends upon the length of
the marker and lay height depends upon the thickness of the fabric as well as
the number of plies to be laid.
o Once the required number of plies are laid, then the marker is placed over the
top lay and is adhered with the topmost ply using tape.
o The lay is now ready for cutting.
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 In case of the orders with more markers, the spreading usually starts with the marker
of the longer length followed by the smaller ones, in descending order.
 The maximum number of plies that can be laid in case of solid fabric is 150 and in
case of checked and striped fabric is 80.
 The maximum length of the lay that can be spread is 11 metres.
 The spreading plan may have maximum 6-way marker and minimum 1- way marker.
 There are three types of papers used during the process of spreading.
o Marker Paper- Paper on which the marker is printed (Plotter Sheet).
o Lay Paper- Paper used at the base of the lay, used for the quality cutting as it
would prevent slippage during cutting.
o Shade Change Paper-Paper laid in between the lays if the shade of the fabric
being laid changes from the previous ply in the lay. This shade change is
experienced when the fabric roll is changed while spreading the plies and the
fabric roll belongs to the same order but in different shade family.
 After all the spreading is done, there are two types of remaining fabrics. This
segregation is done on the basis of the length of the remaining fabric.
o Remnant: The remaining fabric is said to be remnant if one full garment can
be cut from it.
o End Bits: The remaining fabric is said to be an end bit if all the components of
a garment cannot be cut from it.
3.15.5.2. CUTTING
 After the step of Spreading the fabric according to the lay plan, the lay is slid to the
cutter for cutting using the straight knife first, which cuts the larger parts and the
blocks for small components.
 These blocks are the cut by using the band knife to get the required small parts.
 Before cutting starts, style code stickers are pasted on each pattern of the component
on the marker as well as the top ply. This is done by tearing off a small part of the
pattern of each component on the marker by scratching it, so that the sticker can be
stuck on the marker as well as the topmost ply. The motto behind this practice is to
ensure that even if the marker of any panel gets misplaced, details can be known from
the style code sticker.
 The use of the cutters is as under:
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o Straight Knife: Used for cutting Ready Cut Pieces (in case of solid fabric) and
Block Cut Pieces (in case of Striped and Checked Fabric). The Block Cutting
is done for small components in case of solid fabric and almost for all
components in case of Striped and Checked Fabric.
o Band Knife: Used for cutting the Ready Cut Pieces of small components as
well as of the large components after relaying.
Figure 12: Band Knife Cutting Machine
Image Source: Self
3.15.5.3. RELAYING
 This step is only followed in case of the striped and checked fabric.
 This step is performed in order to align the components in the proper position to get
the required design match as per the specification of the style.
 This design match is achieved by the re-spreading of the blocks that have been
previously cut using the straight knife.
 This re-spreading is known as Relaying, which is done using the pins, mainly on the
pinned table.
 After this process of Relaying, the cutting is done precisely on the band knife cutting
machine so as to get the required Ready Cut Parts.
 Then, these parts are inspected and numbered.
 The important details which should be known to the person dealing with or using that
component any further in its production is noted down in the numbering register
which is present with every main numbering operator.
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3.15.5.4. NUMBERING
 The numbering of parts is done in order to avoid the problem of joining the
components of different shades in a single garment, by assuring that the different
components of a single garment is cut from the same ply of the lay, which means from
the same roll of the fabric.
 In addition to the above advantage, it also helps the operators to know the perfect
counting of the parts and thus, would result into better management of the pieces
avoiding their misplacement.
 The process of numbering is done using the Press On Tool, where the stickers are
used in the case of the darker shades of the fabric and black ink is used in the case of
the lighter shades of the fabric.
 The numbering is generally done on the seam allowance of the component.
Figure13: Numbering of Components
Image Source: Self
3.15.5.5. INSPECTION
 Only 10% of that particular component is inspected in case of the bigger components
cut from the fabric that has less number of defects. In case, the numbers of defects are
high, then the percentage of the inspection is increased accordingly.
 In the case of the small parts, 100% inspection is done after the process of fusing and
trimming, independent of the amount of the defects in the fabric.
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 After inspection and rejection, the recutting is done for replacing the defective parts.
The fabric used for recutting is the end bits left from the main spreading.
3.15.5.6. FUSING
 The fusing operation is carried out for the parts like top collar, neckband and cuff in
the shirt.
 This is because these parts require shape retention which is the critical requirement of
the garment.
 The Cutting Department has 4 fusing machines, 1 in each factory.
 Two out of all the four fusing machines, have an extended belt for better machine
utilisation with reduced energy consumption.
 There are mainly two types of interlining used, one is the fusible interlining and the
other is the non-fusible interlining.
 These interlining fabrics are cut using the die cutting machines.
 The dies that are used in these die cutting machines are made in house, specifically
made for the buyers according to the measurements required.
 The three major parameters that are to be considered importantly during the process
of fusing are given as under. The exact amount of requirement of these parameters is
decided by the buyers, depending on the type of fabric ordered.
Temperature
145°C to 165°C
Pressure
3-4 Bars
Time
15 to 22 seconds
Parameters in Fusing
3.15.5.6.1. INTERLINING USED AT THE FACTORY

 The interlining fabrics used by the industry are the Wendler 3000 series for its
garments.
 The selection of interlining is based on the GSM of fabric and interlining. The GSM
of interlining should be 40-60% less than that of the fabric.
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 Another criterion for selection of interlining is the surface look. For example, only
black colour interlining is selected for jet black fabric.
 The bond strength of the interlining fabric is measured in the testing lab using a peel
bond tester and should be more than 1 kg.
 The Glue Line Temperature refers to the actual temperature that the adhesive of the
fusible interlining is exposed to during the bonding process. (Bemis Associates Inc.,
2016). This temperature is checked 3 times a day. For this checking, a slit strip is
placed between the interlining and the fabric and fused, after which the interlining is
peeled and the slit strip is read for the temperature.
 100 % inspection of fused panels is practiced.
o In case of shade variation post fusing, an appearance test is conducted.
o The variation occurs due to improper fusing parameters.
o Hit and trial method is used for correcting this occurrence.
o In case of failure, testing is done for the most optimum parameters.
o Testing is also conducted for two commonly occurring defects, namely strike
through and bubbling.
3.15.5.7. BUNDLING
 After the step of numbering and inspection, the bundling of the components is done
before being issued to the sewing room.
 The bundling of the components is done in the following combinations:
o Collar and Neck Band
o Back and Yoke
o Front, Placket and Pocket
o Sleeves and Sleeve Placket
 Once, the bundling is done in the above combination, the bundle tags are attached
with the bundles.
 The bundle report is also prepared and sent to the sewing section. This bundle report
gives the information about the order number, style code, size details and the quantity.
3.16. SEWING DEPARTMENT

 Sewing is one of the most important departments in the industry.
 It’s the attachment of cut parts to form a garment as end result.
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 Laguna has a total of 4 factories, each factory comprises of two different lines.
Various buyers of the company are divided into these factories.
 All of these lines in the sub assembly section follow bundling system, and in the
assembly section, the Unit Hanging system is used for transportation and better
handling of material.
 Sewing has two parts that is sub assembly and assembly.
 Sub assembly comprises of collar, cuff, sleeve, front, back preparation.
 Assembly comprises of collar, cuff, sleeve, shoulder attach, side seam and bottom
hem. The assembly is equipped with overhead conveyor system for proper material
handling.
 The SMVs of the shirt ranges from 21 minutes to 65 minutes. The average production
per line is 1800 shirts per day.
Figure14: Sewing Department
Image Source: Self
Asst.
Factory
Manager
Asst. Assistant Assistant

Executive Head Welfare
Manager- Manager- Manager- TL- Quality
Cutting Mechanic Officer
Production Finishing IE
Straight Line Quality

Band Knife Supervisor Mechanic Electrician Supervisor
Knife Incharge Controllers
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 The cut pieces are transported to the sewing floor through lifts.
 The bundles are distributed to their respective work-stations by the supervisor.
 In the sub assembly the parts like collar, cuff, sleeve, front and back are prepared, all
these parts’ construction takes place simultaneously.
 At the end of each preparatory process there’s inline inspection which follows AQL 1.
AQL 1.5 is followed in case of Charles Tyrwhitt.
 If any of these pieces are rejected after inspection they are sent for rework.
 All the sub assembled parts are then sent to the assembly area where two operators
per line loads the pieces on the hangers.
 The hangers are pushed forward for the operations to start.
 Each operation is successive, and the end of assembly line produces a complete
stitched shirt.
 The operations being done in the sewing line are listed as follows:
o Shoulder Attach
o Collar Attach
o Sleeve Attach
o Side Seam
o Cuff Attach
o Bottom Hem
 Sewing is followed by inspection and finishing.
3.16.3. MACHINES USED IN THE DEPARTMENT

 The below given is the list of the machines that are used in the sewing department:
o Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine
o Double Needle Lock Stitch Machine
o Single Needle Chain Stitch Machine
o Pointer (Collar, Cuff)
o Overlock Machine (5 Thread)
o Feed of the Arm
o Fusing Machine
o Kansai Machine
o Button Wrapping Machine
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o Ironing Machine
o French Felt Machine
o Button Hole Machine
o Button Attach Machine
3.16.4. SUMMARY OF SEWING DEPARTMENT LINE WISE
LINE BUYER SMV PRODCUTION SPECIAL

PER DAY MACHINE
1 Tommy Hilfiger, Benetton 26-28 -
2 Charles Tyrwhitt, 28-29 -
Dressman (Half Sleeve)
3 Thomas Pink (Tubular 48-65 ~1000 pieces French Felt
Sleeve)
4 Tommy Hilfiger, Harmont 26-29 1500-1600 Gusset ironing
and Blaine, Oxford, Mast pieces machine,
and Harbour, Moss Bross, Placket ironing
Blackberry, Knits, other machine
domestic buyers
5 Tommy Hilfiger, Hackett, 26-29 1800-2000 Arm Hole, Side
Splash, Benetton Seam ironing
machine for
tape attachment
6 Dressman, Polo Ralph 26-29 1800-2000 Sleeve ironing
Lauren, Hackett, machine
Sometimes Knits
7 Polo Ralph Lauren 34.5 1400 -
8 Dressmann 23-24 2000-2200 -
Table 6: Summary of Sewing Department Line Wise
3.17. FINISHING DEPARTMENT

 This department is the last one where the garment is pass on for getting enhanced
before its final shipment.
 The Finishing activities are performed prior to packing garments into poly bags.
 After making the complete stitched garments in the sewing section, these are passed
to the finishing department for ironing, folding, poly packing, cartoning in order to get
the attractive and needed appearance. (Fashion2Apparel, 2017) (Sarkar, 2015)
 The batch output from the assembly section of the garments acts as an input for the
Finishing Department.
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Figure 15: Finishing Line
Image Source: Self
Asst.
Factory
Manager
Assistant Assistant
Executive Asst. Manager- Head Welfare
Manager- Manager- TL- Quality
Cutting Production Mechanic Officer
Finishing IE
Quality
Straight Line
Band Knife Supervisor Mechanic Electrician Supervisor Controller
Knife Incharge
s
Asst. Factory
Manager
Assistant
Manager-
Finishing
Supervisor
Finishing Finishing Finishing Finishing Back

Executive- Washing Up
Incharge- Incharge- First Incharge-
Finishing Coordinator
Ground Floor Floor Second Floor
Hierarchy of Finishing Department in depth
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 The garment in the department is sent to the following sections for processing. These
sections are later explained briefly.
Trim and
Exam Section
End of Line
Section
Ironing and
Folding
Section
Packaging
Section
Process Flow Outline of Finishing Department

3.17.3.1. TRIM AND EXAM SECTION
 Initially, the garments are taken to the trim and examine section, where they are
inspected for the occurrences of defects and the unwanted threads are trimmed.
 This section is stationed right after the sewing line.
 There are six checkers per line.
 The operators in this section is supposed to inspect the mentioned checkpoints in their
Standard Operating Procedure.
 According to the SOP, there are 27 checkpoints outside the garment and 25
checkpoints on the inner side of the garment.
 There are 2 thread sucking machines in the finishing departed that sucks the unwanted
threads from the garment.
 Here, the inspection is done for the entire quantity in an order in the form of bundles
that is received from the sewing department.
 In case the garment is found defective during this inspection, it is returned to the
sewing department and then is re-inspected.
 Rejections can also be done in case of many defects at this stage.
 The garments having stains are then sent to the stain removal section where the stains
are removed using the Spot Guns.
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3.17.3.2. END OF LINE SECTION
 Once, all the garments in the form of bundle are cleared by the Trim and Exam
Section, the pieces are sent to the End of Line Section for the second round of
inspection.
 Here, the inspection is done at AQL 1.5 of the quantity present in the bundle, for
example, if there are 20 garments in a bundle, then an average of 8 garments are to be
inspected.
 If the bundle is found to have defective pieces, the entire bundle is sent back to the
sewing lines and repair is done in the defective pieces, and then, the re-inspection is
carried out again at AQL 1.5 of the quantity of garments in a bundle.
3.17.3.3. IRONING AND FOLDING SECTION

 After a bundle is passed from the End of Line Section, it is then sent to the ironing
and folding section, where the garments are ironed and packed.
 The activities like, ironing and folding is done using the flat ironing tables, buck
presses, folding machines, etc.
 There are 4 collar and cuff pressing machines, 4 flat ironing table and 4 folding
machines.
 In this section, the ironing operations are:
o Pressing Collar
o Pressing Back Yoke
o Pressing Placket
 The ironed garment is then sent for ironing where 100% inspection of the garment is
done by the Line Checkers themselves.
 The pressed garment is also checked for look of its presentation.
 Then, the buttons are closed and taken to folding and packing section.
3.17.3.4. PACKAGING SECTION

 The ironed garments are then folded and packed. In the folding and packing section,
the following operations are followed:
o Collar Patti placing and Collar Folding
o Cuff and Back Ironing
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o Then, the packing accessories are added to the shirt while folding it. The
accessories may include tissue paper, clips, side pins, butterfly ring, collar
interlay and back support.
o Straightness of button is checked and is given a touch from iron, to keep the
placket straight.
o The hang tags and extra accessories pouch is attached.
o The barcode stickers are pasted on the garment’s package.
o Polybag enveloping
o Then, packing the finished garments inside the carton box is done.
o Once, the complete quantity of the PO is packed into cartons, they are then
sent to the CSO department for final clearance.
 In case of the assorted packing, the packaging of the garments are done on the basis of
the ratio given to the company according to the specifications received from the
buyer. The decided quantity of particular size of the garment is put in the same carton.
 In the solid packing, each carton is filled with garments of only one size.
3.17.4. ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES

 The roles and responsibilities of Assistant Finishing Manager, Finishing In-Charge
and the supervisors of all the sections are listed below:
3.17.4.1. ASSISTANT FINISHING MANAGER

 Manages the proper feeding in all the sections.
 Maintains the quality of the output.
3.17.4.2. FINISHING IN-CHARGE

 Takes care of the proper work flow of all the subordinate staffs.
 Tries to troubleshoot the problems.
3.17.4.3. TRIM AND EXAM SECTION’S SUPERVISOR

 Accounting the output.
 Track the movement of the pieces.
3.17.4.4. IRONING SUPERVISOR

 Providing technical support for the Ironing and Folding section.
 Maintain quality of the garment passing from this section.
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3.17.4.5. PACKING SUPERVISOR
 Tracks the process from packing till the dispatch.
 Tries to complete the order within the decided shipment date.
3.18. RECUTTING DEPARTMENT

 This department works on the pieces that have some problem due to which it cannot
be sewed in the garment.
 The problems in the parts can be like:
o Missing part
o Defective part
o Stained part and many more defects that requires parts to be changed with a
new piece.
 In the factory, there is a small section on the cutting floor itself that is allotted for this
department.

 The defects in the parts arises at three main stages, which are:
o After the cutting process
o During the Sewing process
o During the Finishing process
 The defects may be like any particular piece is either missing or is found defective
due to the process of cutting or found defective due to the process of sewing or is
stained and found at the Finishing stage.
 Once, the defective piece is found, it is sent to the recutting department with a Recut
Challan with details of the Con number of the order and details like colour of the
garment is attached to that particular piece.
 After the process of cutting for a particular order ends, the fabric roll with less than 10
metres remain is sent to this department as End Bits and the fabric roll with more than
10 metres remain is sent to the warehouse as Remnant Fabric.
 If the defect is found during the process of sewing, the complete bundle that contained
the defective piece is put on hold and different bundle is worked upon until that piece
is recut and sent to the respective sewing line.
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 If the defect is found during the finishing process, then the garment in which the part
is found to be defective, is removed from the finishing lot and sent back to the sewing
department for getting it sewed using the recut part.
 When the recutter receives the defective piece with the Recut Challan, she searches
for the End Bits fabric associated with that specific con number received from the
cutting department and finds the mentioned colour.
 Then, the recutter matches the shade of the part to be recut with different shades
available with her. She then chooses the nearest shade in the fabric roll and recuts the
required part using the patterns provided to her by the CAD team.
 After the recutting is completed, the recut part is sent to the respective department,
and the further processing continues.
 The recutter also maintains a record for all the parts that are recut so that the record
can be referred to as and when needed.
 This process is done manually with no recorded data. This is just done on the basis of
the years of experience of the recutter.
3.19. CUSTOMER SATISFACTION OFFICE- CSO DEPARTMENT

 The CSO department acts as an external agent and is authorised to reject/hold the
shipment if any non-conformity is found to the required standards.
Figure 16: CSO Department
Image Source: Self
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3.19.1. OBJECTIVE OF THE DEPARTMENT
 The main objective of the CSO department is to guarantee 100% conformity in the
following areas:
o Styling
o Stitching
o Trims
o Presentation
o Measurement
o Hand Feel
o Shade
o Labelling
o Pressing
o Packing
3.19.2. RESPONSIBILITY OF CSO DEPARTMENT

 Audit of the orders that is ready with complete packaging.
 Carries out in-line and final inspections to ensure 100% conformity to customer’s
requirements.
 Can reject/ hold the shipment if the department finds any non-conformance.
3.19.3. AUDIT BY CSO DEPARTMENT

 After the orders are cleared from the Finishing department, the ready order is sent to
the CSO department, where the personnel work as External Customer Inspection
Operators.
 Here, the inspection (also called Audit) is done at the AQL (Acceptable Quality
Level) of 1.5 for each Purchase Order.
 The decided quantity of pieces are re-opened from their finished and packed stage and
then, is thoroughly inspected.
 In case the audit fails, the entire order is sent for the purpose of rework, where all the
garments of the order are reopened and 100% inspection is done.
 Once the inspection is completed, the garments are put back to the carton in the same
distribution method and then, the PO is sent for the re-audit.
 The above given process is repeated for as long as the PO is not cleared by the CSO
department.
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 Once the PO gets cleared by the CSO department, the cartons are then loaded into the
bigger cartons and stored in the warehouse before it proceeds for shipment.
3.20. QUALITY DEPARTMENT

 Quality is very important in apparel business.
 Quality may define as the level of acceptance of goods or services. It is a relative
term.
 It completely depends on customer satisfaction.
 There are a number of factors on which quality fitness of garment industry is based
such as - performance, reliability, durability, visual and perceived quality of the
garment. (Bhuiyan)
 This department is responsible for controlling the quality in the products coming out
from the company.
 The main objective of this department is to manufacture “Right First Time” products.
 The BDE Department, Pre-Run Department and CSO Department also comes under
the Quality Department.
3.20.1. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROCEDURES

 Once when the customer specifications are received from the buyer, a Feasibility
Analysis is done to know whether the required facilities, like, folders, attachments,
machines, etc., and skills are available or not.
 Based on the Feasibility Analysis, the decision of either accepting or rejecting the
order is taken.
 Before loading the orders, the following procedures are performed as the
responsibility of the department:
o Pre Run
o Sealed Sample and Specs
o Packed Sample
o Style Launch Meeting
o First Bundle Approval
3.20.2. ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES OF THE QUALITY DEPARTMENT

3.20.2.1. PRE-RUN
 It is a pilot run done two weeks before the loading date to finalize patterns, depending
upon the availability of fabric, technical specifications, accessories, etc.
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 The QC is supposed to check the criticality & style complexity to have smooth run
during bulk production.
 The garments (3 pieces/ size) are made up in the production line and QC has to ensure
the conformity of the products according to the customer’s requirements.
3.20.2.2. SEALED SAMPLE AND SPECS

 A sealed sample is an internal reference sample and is a representative of
customer’s approval.
 It is prepared by the sampling department and approved by the marketing department.
 The sealed sample is used as a standard in terms of styling and construction.
 The main objective is to provide production units with a sample which is used as a
reference during the manufacturing process to ensure that all the customer
requirements are met accordingly.
 The sealed sample is made based on customer’s approved sample during the order
confirmation.
 After acknowledgement of the sealed sample in the factory, a meeting is arranged by
the QC with the supervisors.
 During the meeting, the sealed sample is cross-checked against the following to
ensure that all the customer requirements have been met.
o Approved Sample
o Technical specifications
o Sewing Trim Card
3.20.2.3. PACKED SAMPLE

 A packed sample is an internal reference sample which is prepared by the Sampling
department and approved by Marketing department.
 It ensures that the presentation of packing (folding and packaging), type and position
of accessories are as per the customer requirements.
 When the packed sample is received in the factory, the QC has to counter check the
packed sample against the following items.
o Approved Sample
o Technical specifications
o Sewing Trim Card
 During bulk production, QC has to ensure that:
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o The garments have been folded and packed according to the required
specifications.
o The overall presentation of the garment is as per customer’s requirements.
o The correct packing accessories have been used.
3.20.2.4. STYLE LAUNCH MEETING

 The Style Launch Meeting is held three days before the loading date of the new order
for production.
 This meeting is held to discuss various details about the construction of the garment
including the solutions to potential high risks.
 In this meeting, the details about the trims to be used is also discussed.
 During the meeting, the sealed sample of that order is thoroughly studied and queries
are raised accordingly to clarify the doubts in order to avoid any type of confusion
when the production of the bulk quantity begins.
 During the meeting, the Style Launch Report is also filled up in order to highlight the
high risks in the different parts of the garment.
 This meeting is also held for the same order two days before the order is planned to be
loaded in the Finishing lines, and in this meeting, the Packed Sample is thoroughly
studied mainly taking the following into consideration:
o Accessories to be used
o Placement of the packing accessories, like, the Price Stickers and various
Labels.
o Types of Folding and Packing required.
3.20.2.5. FIRST BUNDLE APPROVAL

 It is the first sample of each order which is produced according to the sealed sample
and technical specifications.
 It is then sent to the Quality Controller for approval before the bulk production is
initiated.
 The First Bundle Approval is taken to ensure the conformity of the customer’s
requirements and sealed sample prior to the initiation of the bulk order.
 One day before the loading of the forthcoming style for the bulk production, the First
Bundle is sewn and closely followed by the QC at each operation.
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 The QC is supposed to follow the first bundle at the sewing stage of each component,
that is, Front, Back, Sleeve, Cuff, and Collar.
 The QC then is also supposed to check the garment as a whole.
 While the First Bundle is verified, a report named First Bundle Approval Report is
filled in order to highlight the remarks and actions to be taken when the bulk is being
produced.
 Then a meeting is held with the operators and QC before launching the initiation of
the bulk production in order to explain the high risks and solutions to the problems.
3.20.3. QUALITY CONTROL DURING AND AFTER PRODUCTION

 In the manufacturing process, the Quality department is required to check for the
quality of the following. Also, these checks are briefly explained further.
o Quality of Raw Materials (Fabric Inspection)
o Quality of Raw Material (Trims Inspection)
o Quality of Cut Components (Cutting Inspection)
o Garment Quality Control in which the styling, workmanship and
measurements is addressed.
o Finishing Quality Control in which the packaging and final presentation are of
major concern that includes the way the garment is pressed, folded, bagged,
and finally packed in the carton.
3.20.3.1. QUALITY OF RAW MATERIAL- FABRIC INSPECTION

 Fabric Inspection is done to ensure the quality of the fabric that is being received by
the factory.
 Mostly, 10% of the total quantity of the fabric received is inspected, for which the 4
point inspection system is followed.
 The main objectives of the Fabric Inspection are as follows:
o To provide a report on the quality aspects of the fabric.
o To provide information about the length and width of the fabric and confirm
the same by comparing them with the actual order.
o To estimate the loss due to defective fabric and can also be used as an
evidence while claiming for the compensation for the same.
 In the incoming fabric roll, the following aspects are checked:
o Length variation of the fabric roll
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o Shade variation
o Shrinkage
o General Visual Assessment
 Bow
 Skew
o Shade Batching.
Figure 17: Quality Lab For Shade Batching, Shrinkage Testing, Shade Variation Test
Image Source: Self
3.20.3.2. QUALITY OF RAW MATERIAL- TRIMS INSPECTION

 A shirt can have over 20-25 trims being used.
 Trims can be categorised as following and also examples for the same are given:
• Thread
Sewing
• Buttons
Trims
• Labels and many more.
• Polybag
Packing
• Butterfly
Trims
• Hang Tag and many more.
Types of Trims
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 Laguna follows the Acceptance Quality Level of 2.5 for trims.
3.20.3.3. QUALITY OF CUT COMPONENTS- CUTTING INSPECTION

 The Cutting Inspection comprises of six areas of inspection:
Marker Inspection on Paper
Lay Inspection while Spreading
Cut Accuracy Inspection while Cutting
Matching Inspection while Numbering
Bundling Inspection
Bond Strength and Fusing Inspection after Fusing the components
Cutting Inspection
3.20.3.4. GARMENT QUALITY CONTROL- SEWING INSPECTION

 In this type of quality check, the following three aspects are monitored during the
process of Sewing:
Styling
•The tech pack, specification sheet and sample should be followed for bulk
production to meet the design requirements.
Workmanship
•It is a measure of how well the critical operations are done.
Measurements
•All measurements should be in accordance to the specification sheet.
Sewing Inspection
 In the sewing line, the Quality department is supposed to do the following tasks on
daily basis:
o Cross verification of sample based on the following-
 Takt Time (Construction)
 Trim card
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 Trims (Sewing, Packing)
 Consideration of PP Sample/ Comments
 Embroidery
o Operator to Operator Quality Monitoring
o Audit each operator on regular basis
o Monitor the Quality Checkers
o Pre-Run Inspection based on construction, trims and high risks.
o Reports
 Audit Report by the Quality Checker
 Checker Monitor Report by the Checker
 Each Style- 1st Bundle Report
 Style Launch Report, contains the description of the style which is at
its initial stage.
 Pre-Run Report, generated after pre- examining the lot based on the
comments from the Pre-Run.
o During the production, there are two types of inspection that is done:
 In Line Inspection by Roaming QCs
 End of Line Audit
3.20.3.5. FINISHING QUALITY CONTROL

 The Finishing inspection encompasses the inspections carried out at the Finishing
department that includes the Pressing, Folding and Packing of the garment.
 The main objective of the Finishing Inspection are as follows:
o To check that the type of pressing and position of the packing accessories are
correct.
o To check the overall presentation of the garment.
o To ensure that the garments have been put in the cartons according to the
required specifications.
 The Finishing Inspection is done at the following stages:
o At Pressing section
o At Packing section
o At CSO
o Post Trim and Exam at End of Line.
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3.20.4. TRAFFIC LIGHT SYSTEM FOR QUALITY CONTROL DURING SEWING
 This system is a visual control for highlighting the quality issues in a sewing line.
 The traffic light system is attached to all the machines on the sewing floor.
 This system has the three colours- Green, Orange, and Red.
 Each colour symbolises the production quality level being produced by the operator of
that particular machine.
 The symbolisation of each colour is given as under:
o Green- The operator is producing good quality and in accordance to the
customer requirements.
o Orange- The operator is producing minor faults and improvement in the
quality of the production from that operator is required.
o Red- The operator needs attention and is not producing the product as per the
required quality.
 The light of the traffic system is changed by the quality checker of that particular line.
3.20.4.1. PROCEDURE FOLLOWED FOR TRAFFIC LIGHT SYSTEM

 The QC of that line is supposed to inspect the pieces per workstation thrice a day.
 Any random five pieces from a bundle are checked by the QC at once.
 The light in the traffic system is put on depending on the number of the defects found
during the random inspection by the QC of that line.
o In case there are no defects found, then the Green Light is put on.
o In case of one defect being found, the Orange Light is put on.
o In case more than one defect is found, then the Red Light is put on.
3.21. OUTSOURCING DEPARTMENT

 Outsourcing is a business practice in which a company hires another company or an
individual to perform tasks, handle operations or provide services that are either
usually executed or had previously been done by the company's own employees.
 Outsourcing business functions is sometimes called contracting out or business
process outsourcing. (Rouse, 2018)
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Outsourcing-
Manager
Finishing Incharge; Assistant Manager-

Sr. Mechanic Training Manager
Cutter Outsourcing Quality
Sr. Executive-
Sr. Quality
Technical Quality Controllers CSO
Controller
Outsourcing
Outsourcing Team
3.21.2. OUTSOURCING AT LAGUNA

 Laguna has few outsourcing vendors where production is done when the capacity is
fully booked in Laguna’s own unit.
 The outsourcing at Laguna is done only in the cases when there are many orders with
large quantity and the factory is unable to complete the orders.
 The process of outsourcing is done from 7 to 8 factories situated in the same city.
 The process of outsourcing is neither buyer specific nor style specific.
 Though there are some buyers who specify whether outsourcing in their orders are
allowed or not. If the buyer disagrees to the product produced from outside the
factory, the factory is supposed to produce the complete order in the factory itself.
 There are some factories that only work for Laguna Clothing and there are some
factories that work for Laguna Clothing for the specified time or the required time and
then work for other companies too.
 In the factories taking orders from different companies, Laguna Clothing is supposed
to inform them about the upcoming order at least 3 months prior to giving them the
order, and also specify the time period required by the factory to work for Laguna
Clothing, so that the factory my take the orders from other companies for the time
period except the period specified by Laguna Clothing.
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3.21.3. WORKFLOW OF THE DEPARTMENT
Filled TBC is given to the planning department, by merchandisers.
Planning forwards the same to the outsourcing department.
If order quantity is more than factory production capacity, outsourcing is to be done.
Vendors are decided by the outsourcing department, based on per day production plan.
Sample garments produced & CMT- Cut, Make and Trim is negotiated.
Allocation of order is done on STAGE, by raising the PO to the vendor factory.
As per the PO, fabric & trims are sent.
Merchandiser raises work order in STAGE.
Daily production report is provided.
Dispatch from their premises (OCR+FCR+Invoice, given to Finance).
Document verification & approval from management.
STAGE updation & payment done by Finance Department.
Workflow of the Outsourcing Department

3.22. INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT
 This department is responsible for all the activities related to Industrial Engineering.
 The main objective of this department is to ‘optimise the use of the resources with
continuous improvements in the methods and systems’.
 After receiving the customer specifications, a feasibility analysis of the specifications
is done to know the requirements of the facilities (Folders, Attachments, Machines,
etc.) and skills and ensure their availability.
 Based on the feasibility analysis and their availability, the order for the facilities and
skills is accepted by the I.E. department.
 With the coordination of BD’E Department, the industrial department works for
easing out the operations and reduce the change over time in the lines.
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Asst.
Manager- IE
Manager- Data Entry Management

GSD Lean BED
Training Operators Trainees
On Floor
Basic Trainers
Trainers
Industrial Engineering Team
Checking of
Understanding style Methods
Machines and Skill Manning Line Balancing
in BD'E Meeting Improvement
Availability
Maintaining and
Maintaining &
Maintaining Analysing Next Day Planning
Layout Design Upgrading SKill
Incentive Reports Production &
Matrix
Efficiency Charts
Process Flow Outline of Industrial Engineering Department

 The Industrial Engineering Department has great significance and a number of roles
to be played for the effective and efficient functioning of the garment unit.
 The primary job of an Industrial Engineering personnel is to prepare the Operation
Breakdown of the style and then perform the time and method study for all the
operations listed down in that style. The time and method study reports are generated
in the form of output.
 The Operation Breakdown data is prepared along with the SMV and GSD targets. For
the preparation of this data, the GSD manual is referred.
 Based on the time allocated, the expected monthly target is compared, and then the
I.E. department allocates the machine and the manpower accordingly.
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 The allocation decided by the I.E. department is then discussed and approved from the
Assistant Production Officer (APO) and Production Officer (PO), after which the
necessary and the suggested changes are made.
 Then, this decided allocation along with the operation breakdown data are put into
action and the necessary follow ups are conducted.
 The set targets are set by coordinating with the production team.
 Then, according to expected target, the final Operation Breakdown Data is prepared
and the SMV is finalized for the style and then, the Cut and Make Time is calculated.
 After all the above mentioned data is prepared, these are put into action.
 The next job of an Industrial Engineering personnel is to calculate the efficiency of
the factory on a daily basis. For this job, the data is collected and compiled for
generating the Factory Efficiency Report as its output.
 The I.E. department is also responsible for capturing the actual production of the
operators and the time taken by them in doing so. Based on these values, the capacity
and performance levels of the individual operators are established.
 While capturing the data about the performance levels of the operators, their Skill
Index can also be maintained and the required updations to these data to this matrix
can be done by capturing such data about the performance levels from time to time.
 The I.E. department personnel are also supposed to prepare a monthly work status
report and present the same to the higher management of the company.
3.22.4. ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES OF THE I.E. PERSONNEL
3.22.4.1. UNDERSTANDING STYLE IN BD’E MEETING

 After the order is confirmed by the Marketing and Merchandising team, the order is
discussed during the BD’E meeting.
 During the discussion about that order, the risk assessment is done.
 During the risk assessment, if some specification is found infeasible with the factory
and some simple method of manufacturing is available, then that method is brought to
the notice of the technical team in the factory.
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3.22.4.2. CHECKING AVAILABILITY OF MACHINE AND SKILL
 When the factory receives the Operation Breakdown data from the technical team, the
I.E. department checks the availability of the machine and skills according to the
requirement.
 In case of any machine requirement, I.E. department plans to get the needed machines
by either renting them or buying them.
 In case of any skill requirement, the I.E. department contacts the training department,
so that the trainer can train the new/present operators for the required skill.
3.22.4.3. MANNING
 After the completion of the BD’E meeting and the pre run sample preparation, the I.E.
department prepares the manning sheet for the next upcoming one week in advance.
 These manning sheets contain the operation breakdown data with the name of the
operator along the name of the operation, so that the people in the sewing floor are
aware about the manpower allocations, which will result in quick style changeovers
with reduced loss in production occurring due to style changeovers.
3.22.4.4. LINE BALANCING

 The I.E. department personnel is supposed to find out the WIP at the end of the day.
 After studying the WIP, the I.E. personnel takes the list of the planned leaves from the
Human Resource Department for the next day.
 The personnel then studies the work to be performed the operators taking leave, and
then informs their substitute operators about their next day’s work in the evening
before the next day.
 In the morning, the I.E. personnel is supposed to get the data about the unplanned
absent operators from the Human Resource Department within 5 minutes after the
factory starts working and plan the substitute operators in next 10 minutes of fetching
the details.
3.22.4.5. METHOD IMPROVEMENT

 The I.E. personnel is also required to continuously observe the current method of
operations and suggest some Kaizen accordingly for boosting the productivity by
reducing the non-value added activities.
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3.22.4.6. MAINTAINING AND UPGRADING SKILL MATRIX
 The I.E. department works hand in hand with the Training department to ensure that
the factory has 150% skill capacity against every operation (100% for core operators
and 50% for non-core operators).
 The I.E. department is responsible for weekly updating the skill matrix and fill up the
skill gaps.
3.22.4.7. MAINTAINING AND ANALYSING PRODUCTION & EFFICIENCY CHART

 The I.E. department is also responsible for maintaining the production records.
 This recording is done on the daily, weekly, monthly and yearly.
 The criteria of basis for this recording is also operator wise, section wise and
department wise in the factory.
3.22.4.8. MAINTAINING INCENTIVE REPORTS

 The I.E. personnel along with the line-in-charge is also responsible for scheduling a
meeting to declare the production for that particular day and decide the incentive
targets.
 In that meeting, the previous day’s achievements are also discussed.
3.23. LEAN DEPARTMENT

 The Lean is a methodology that eliminates the waste and boosts the efficiency.
 The Lean Department in the factory focuses on eliminating the non-value added
activities by using several techniques.
 The Lean Department at the factory has mainly worked upon the below listed
activities:
o Over Production
o Waiting
o Transport
o Over Processing
o Inventory
o Excess movement/ motion
o Defects
o Underutilisation of an employee
 The main tools used by the lean department are listed and explained below:
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5S and Visual Value Stream
Kaizen Kanban
Factory Mapping
Unit Hanging Pull & JIT Quality

SMED
System System Control Circles
Tools of Lean Department
3.23.1. 5S & VISUAL FACTORY

 5S is a workplace organization tool that develops a practice.
 The elements of 5S are:
1 Seiri Sort Proper Keep only the necessary items and

Arrangement eliminate what is not required.
2 Seiton Set in order Orderliness Arrange work, worker, parts &

instructions such that the work flows
free of waste through Value Added
tasks. A place for everything is decided
and maintained.
3 Seiso Shine Cleanliness Clean the workspace clean, tidy and

organized, and ensure that everything is
restored in its place after use.
4 Seiketsu Standardize Clean-up Ensure uniform procedures throughout

the operation
5 Seitsuke Sustain Discipline Ensure disciplined devotion to rules and

procedures
Table 7: About 5S
 The factory is divided into 26 5S zones and is audited weekly by the appointed 5S
Champion.
 The 5S champions are allocated the zones to be managed by them.
3.23.1.1. 5S ZONES
 The list of the 26 zones are as under:
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ZONE DESCRIPTION
Zone 1 Security
Zone 2 Lower Office
Zone 3 Creche and Medical Room
Zone 4 CAD
Zone 5 Cutting
Zone 6 Finishing Ground Floor
Zone 7 Warehouse
Zone 8 Backside Area
Zone 9 Upper Office (I.E. Department)
Zone 10 PRT Line
Zone 11 Sewing Line 1
Zone 15 Finishing First Floor
Zone 16 Pre-Production Room
Zone 17 Idle Machine Area
Zone 18 Training Room
Zone 23 Finishing Second Floor
Zone 24 Shipment Office
Zone 25 Canteen
Zone 26 Between Sewing and Finishing
Table 8: 5S Zones
3.23.1.2. RED TAG AREA

 When going through the 5S process, during the ‘Sort’ function, sometimes it is not
clear whether an item or piece of equipment should be kept or removed, so a Red Tag
Area is a solution to this confusion.
 A Red Tag Area helps the team to temporarily ‘let go’ of items rather than struggle
through the decision of discarding.
 The Red Tags are usually the cardboard tags or stickers that can be attached to the
items in question.
 For Red Tag areas and the materials, the steering committee is set based on different
departments.
 The materials present in the Red Tag Area are listed down and informed to all the
concerned personnel, who can take the material from this area if that material is of
any use to them, or else can be permanently discarded.
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3.23.1.3. 5S CHECKPOINTS
 The main 5S Checkpoints are listed as under:
o Floors and Gangways should be free of obstacles.
o Identification of unwanted materials.
o Machine Cleaning should be done as per the required standards.
o The rules about the usage of Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) should be
followed properly.
o The trims should be returned after use.
o The reports about a particular size should be returned after the production of
that style is complete and style changeover is done.
o Production Pad, Pencil & Trimmer Stand, Powder box, Toolbox, Chairs,
Dustbins, etc. should be arranged properly.
o Trolleys and Pallets should not be overloaded.
o Cupboard should be maintained in their standard conditions.
o Pieces should be covered properly as required.
o Pieces should be kept in the allocated space.
3.23.1.4. FIXED POINT PHOTOGRAPHY

 For managing the 5S in all the zones, a system of Fixed Point Photography (FPP) is
followed.
 Fixed Point Photography is an effective and easy method of monitoring the change.
Invalid source specified.
 There are 15 CCTV cameras installed in the factory, which are continuously capturing
the photographs of the designated areas.
 These pictures are then compared every week with the photograph having the
expected scenario and is ranked accordingly.
3.23.2. VALUE STREAM MAPPING

 A Value Stream Map illustrates the flow of materials and information from supplier to
the customer.
 This is a lean manufacturing technique that is used to analyse, design, and manage the
flow of materials and information required to bring a product to a customer.
103
 This method is used for analysing the current state and designing a future state for the
series of events.
 Value Stream focuses on areas of a firm that add value to a product or service,
different from Value Chain that includes all the activities in the company.
 The purpose of the Value Stream Mapping is to identify and remove or reduce waste
in the value stream and streamline the production process for increasing the
efficiency. Invalid source specified.
 This method allows to create a detailed visualization of all the works in the process.
 There are a number of benefits of VSM for various team members, stakeholders,
executives, and even the shareholders, but the real benefit to VSM is experienced by
the customer. The customer will experience a better quality product, it will be
delivered faster, and it will meet their needs and expectations in a better way. Invalid
source specified.
 In the factory, the time taken for doing the activities between the supplier and
customers has been reduced from 8 days to 6 days.
 The symbols used in the Value Stream Mapping are: Invalid source specified.
o Rectangle with “Process” written in it: Depicts Process
o Triangle with “I” written in it: Depicts Inventory Exchange
o Blank Wide Arrows: Depicts Shipment
o Black Arrow with three Blank boxes: Depicts the Push System from one
process to the next one
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o Truck: Depicts that the Shipment is being done by the external supplier.
o Abstract of Factory: Depicts the Supplier and Customer.
o Electronic Flow: Depicts the data exchange
o Kaizen Burst: Depicts the short burst of acivity that resolves many problems
with intensity and urgency.
o Go and See: Depicts to confirmation of something visually in the process.
o Octagon with “Q” written in it: Depicts Quality problem.
3.23.3. KAIZEN
 In Japanese language, Kaizen word has the meaning ‘Change for the Better’. Invalid
source specified.
 Kaizen means Continuous Improvement.
105
 This refers to all the activities that are being performed to continuously improve the
functions.
 This involves all the employees from CEO to the Assembly Line workers.
 This tool mainly focuses on the ideas coming up from the employees at the grass root
level.
 A Graph is prepared with the cumulative number of Kaizens in about a quarter of
month.
 The ideas about the improvements are all reported to the I.E. team, who records all the
ideas and then come up with the top ideas.
 Many ideas that are recorded are also worked upon, if they are found feasible and the
person who gave that particular idea is acknowledged in the function named ‘Kaizen
Mela’.
 ‘Kaizen Mela’ is organized quarterly in a year. In the function, the best ideas are show
cased and the top three ideas are awarded in front of the complete audience present in
the mela.
 This awarding motivates the person winning it to get the same honour again for which
he continues to work hard and strives to achieve the same position. It also motivates
the person not winning it to get one during the next function.
 The format that is used to record the suggested Kaizens is shown as under:
Team Name: Department:
Team Members: Date of Implementation:

Problem Definition: Problem Solution:
Benefit:
Team Photo:
Status Before Kaizen: Status After Kaizen:
Facilitator – Signature Department head – Signature
Table 9: Kaizen Format
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3.23.4. KANBAN
 KANBAN, also spelt ‘KAMBAN’ in Japanese, translates to ‘Billboard’ (‘Signboard’
in Chinese) that indicates ‘Available Capacity (To Work)’.
 KANBAN visualizes both the process (the workflow) and the actual work passing
through that process.
 The goal of KANBAN is to limit the build-up of excess inventory at any point in the
production.
 KANBAN is a concept related to Lean and Just-In-Time (JIT) production, where it is
used as a scheduling system that lets one know what to produce, when to produce it,
and how much to produce.
 This system can also be used as the Production Control System.Invalid source
specified.
 As part of a Pull System, its purpose is to ensure that one only produces what the
customer is asking for and nothing more. Invalid source specified.
 KANBAN became an effective tool to support running a production system as a
whole, and an excellent way to promote improvement.
3.23.5. UNIT HANGING SYSTEM

 The Unit Hanging System for apparel industries is a flexible material handling system
that requires an overhead transportation system to move the garment components
from one workstation to the next according to a pre-determined sequence.
 A single piece flows in one hanger in this system.
 It replaces the traditional garment production system of handling, bundling, tying and
untying, and manually moving the garment parts.
 It provides uninterrupted workflow to the workers and helps to improve the work
efficiency and product quality.
 In the fast moving fashion and apparel industry, this system is now highly essential.
 Before UHS, some pieces in the form of bundles were issued.
 The below are the points listed for comparing both Bundle as well as Unit Hanging
System:
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Sr.No. PARAMETER BUNDLE SYSTEM UHS
1 Lead Time High Less
Defining the
2 Number of pieces Number of Hangers
In-Line WIP
Feedback
3 Slow Quick
System
4 Visual Display
Table 10: Comparison of Bundle System and Unit Hanging System
3.23.6. STYLE CHANGEOVER- SMED

 Changeover is the process of converting a line or machine from producing one
product to another product.
 Single Minute Exchange of Dies (SMED) is a system for dramatically reducing the
time taken for the style changeover.
 Each element of the changeover is analysed to see if it can be eliminated, moved,
simplified or streamlined to complete the equipment changeovers.
 SMED is one of many lean production methods for reducing the waste in a
manufacturing process.
 It provides a rapid and efficient way of converting a manufacturing process from
producing a product to producing another product.
 The production is monitored for 3 hours after the style changeover. If the targeted
production is 200 pieces per hour, that is 600 pieces should be produced in 3 hours,
and the actual completed pieces are 300, then the SMED is 1.5 hours.
 Currently, the factory achieves 24 minutes as SMED and the target is 15 minutes.
3.23.7. PULL SYSTEM AND JIT MANUFACTURING SYSTEM

3.23.7.1. PULL SYSTEM
 Pull System is a lean manufacturing strategy used to reduce waste in the production
process.
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 This also frees up the workspace and reduces the cost of inventory.
 In the Pull System, production of any product starts only when the customer demands
for it. This gives the opportunity to reduce overhead and optimise storage costs.
 A Lean Pull System has the purpose to create a workflow where work is pulled only if
there is a demand for it.
 The purpose of implementing a pull system is to build products based on actual
demand and not on forecasts. By doing so, the company focuses on eliminating the
waste activities in the production process.
 In the factory, if there is an inventory in between the activities, and the line is seen to
be improperly balanced, then that particular zone with imbalance scores a 0 and if a
proper system is being followed in that zone, then it scores a 10.
3.23.7.2. JUST IN TIME MANUFACTURING SYSTEM

 ‘Just In Time’ Manufacturing is a management philosophy and not a technique.
 JIT calls for the production of what the customer wants, when they want it, in the
quantities requested, where they want it, without it being delayed in the inventory.
 So, instead of building large stocks of the product and its quantity that one may think
the customer might want, one makes exactly what the customer actually asks for when
they ask for it.
 This allows the concentration of the resources on only fulfilling what is actually going
to be paid rather than building for stock.
 Within a Just in Time manufacturing system, each process will only produce what the
next process in sequence is calling for.
 JIT manufacturing aims primarily at reducing times within production system as well
as response times from suppliers and to customers.
3.23.8. QUALITY CONTROL CIRCLES

 The Quality Control Circle is a management approach that involves input from a
number of different sources within the structure of the company.
 The purpose of the Quality Control Circles is to identify the presence of a specific
performance issue within the company, determine the origin of the issue, then develop
a process that helps to correct or resolve the problem without triggering additional
issues elsewhere within the operational structure.
 This is one of the employee participation method.
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 The Quality Control Circles are the group of workers who do the same or similar
work, who meet regularly to identify, analyse and solve the work related issues.
 Normally small in size, the group is usually led by a supervisor or manager and
presents its solution of an issue to the management.
 These groups are very formal.
 Employees who participate in quality circles usually receive training in formal
problem-solving methods—such as Brain-Storming, Pareto Analysis, and Cause-and-
Effect diagrams—and are then encouraged to apply these methods either to specific or
general company problems.
 The seven steps of the QC process is a structured problem solving approach for
improving the weak processes
STEP ACTIVITY TOOL/TECHNIQUE USED

NO.
1 Select a theme 7 Mudas, Mura and Muri
2 Grasp the present situation and set a Pareto Chart
target
3 Make an Activity Plan Nothing Specific
4 Analyse the cause 5 Why
5 Set up and carry out the What, Where, Who, How and
countermeasures When
6 Check the results Bar Graph
7 Standardise and root control Develop Standard Operational
Procedure
Table 11: Quality Control Circles Activities
3.24. SUSTAINABILITY
 Sustainability focuses on meeting the needs of the present without compromising the
ability of future generations to meet their needs.
 The concept of sustainability is composed of three pillars- economic, environmental
and social- also known informally as profits, planet and people. (Grant, et al., 2019)
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3.24.1. SUSTAINABILITY PRACTICES AT THE COMPANY
 The venture of Laguna with Aquarelle and Tessitura Monti was finalised in the year
2005.
 Then, in the year 2006, the commercial production of the group was initiated.
 In the year 2010, the factory of Laguna started at Kanakapura (current factory).
 Then, in the year 2014, the sustainability practices started along with various
community services.
Head of
Operations
Head-
Head- HR Head- IE Head- IT Head- Quality Head- Lean
Outsourcing
Department Department Department Department Department
Department
Sustainability Department
3.24.3. FOCUS AREAS FOR SUSTAINABILITY PRACTICES

 The team initially studied different areas which has direct or indirect impact on the
environment.
 The area and their impact are listed as under:
Sr.No. FOCUS AREA IMPACT ON

ENVIRONMENT
1. Energy Direct
2. Insulation Indirect
3. Air Leaks Management Indirect
4. Lighting Indirect
5. Temperature Management Indirect
6. Water Management Direct
7. Waste Management Direct
8. Socio Economic Benefits Indirect
Table 12: Impact on Environment of the Focused Areas
 Out of which three areas were found to be directly impacting the environment.
 For these three areas, the impact have been studied in detail and related actions have
been taken.
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 In the company, major activities are done in the fields of Water Management and
Electricity Management.
3.24.4. WATER MANAGEMENT

 The water is used from mainly two sources at the company, that is, RO and Sewage
Treatment Plant (STP).
 The water coming from the RO plant is used for cooking and drinking purpose only.
 The water coming from the Sewage Treatment Plant is used for Cleaning, Washing,
Gardening and in toilets.
 The percentage of usage of water is shown in the graph given as under:
Figure 18: Water Distribution at the factory
Image Source: Self
3.24.4.1. WAYS OF WATER MANAGEMENT

 The various ways in which the water is managed in the company is listed as under and
is also briefly explained:
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• The capacity of this plant has been increased depending
Sewage Treatment upon the need. (From 80 Kilo Litre per day (KLD) to 160
KLD)
Plant • Practice of Land Refilling is promoted.
• The Water Meters has been installed at STP and borewell

for monitoring the water usage.
Water Meter
• The rainwater is tried to be harvested using the techniques

for the same as lot of rainfall is received at the place.
Rainwater Harvesting
• The Employees are trained and made aware of the water

Awareness usage.
• The issue of water waste is sensitized using the posters in
Programme the factory.
Ways of Water Management
3.24.4.2. PRACTICING WAYS OF WATER MANAGEMENT AT FACTORY
Figure 19: Sewage Treatment Plant
Source: Self
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Figure 20: Land Refilling
Source: Self
Figure 21: Water Meter
Source: Self
Figure 22: Rain Water Harvesting in Factory’s Compound
Source: Self
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Figure 23: Awareness Programs
Source: Self
3.24.5. ENERGY MANAGEMENT

 There are mainly two forms of energy in which it is used at the company, that is, Fuel
and Electricity, where the fuel is obtained from two sources, Diesel and Briquettes.
 A Briquette is a compressed block, often brick shaped, of coal dust or other
combustible biomass material like, charcoal, sawdust, wood chips, peat or paper used
for fuel. (Merriam-Webster, 2019)
 The concern was to manage the usage of energy coming from Electricity as well as
Fuel.
3.24.5.1. WAYS OF ELECTRICITY MANAGEMENT

 The various ways in which the electricity is managed in the company is listed as under
and is also briefly explained:
• The Energy Meters have been installed to monitor major energy
Energy Meter consumption areas.

• Any deviation from the standard consumption rate is addressed
in the meetings with the management.
• Sun Light harvesting is done using the Solar panels.
Solar Lights • Now, 70% of the electricity being used in the factory was
generated from the solar panels.
Day Light • The factory is given a sustainable architecture that facilitates

day light harvesting through strategically placed enlarged
windows and roof portals.
Harvesting
Quality Control Circles Activities
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3.24.5.1.1. PRACTICING WAYS OF ENERGY MANAGEMENT AT FACTORY
Figure 24: Energy Meter
Source: Self
Figure 25: Weekly Summary on Consumptions and Management Data
Source: Self
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Figure 26: Solar Lights
Source: Self
Day Light Harvesting
Figure 27: Day Light Harvesting
Source: Self
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3.24.5.1.2. ACHIEVEMENTS IN ELECTRICITY MANAGEMENT
 The electricity consumption per shirt was reduced.
 A reduction of 12.6% was achieved.
 The average electricity consumption per shirt was 0.48 kWh in the year 2017, which
was reduced to 0.38 kWh by the year 2018.
3.24.5.2. WAYS OF FUEL MANAGEMENT

 The briquettes are now used instead of conventional wood for producing energy.
o As on burning the wood, it would only give 2.8 Cal of energy after burning 1
kg of wood, whereas on burning 1 kg of briquette, it gives 4 Cal of energy.
o Less fly ash is also produced.
o It gives higher fuel efficiency.
3.24.5.2.1. ACHIEVEMENTS IN FUEL MANAGEMENT

 The average briquette consumption per shirt has been reduced from 0.18 kg/ shirt to
0.11 kg/ shirt that is a reduction of 29.4% has been observed.
3.25. MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT

 The maintenance department -
o Provides the necessary machines, instruments & appliances necessary to carry
out the manufacturing function of the organization.
o Facilitates the department with necessary work aids & work environment.
o Maintains all the machines, instruments, appliances, facilities & services in
appropriate condition.
 The maintenance department is responsible not only for the Maintenance of the
machine but is also responsible for providing & maintaining the facilities for the
production of the activities.
 The maintenance department is headed by Mr. Manesh Kumar, who is assisted by the
assistant manager and they are further assisted by line in charge.
 The department is divided into two main categories, which is further subdivided.
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Electrical
Maintenance of
Machines
Shop Floor
Maintenance
Mechanical
Maintenance of
Machines
Maintenance Research and

Department Development
Peripheral
Maintenance
Utility
Maintenance
Die Cutting
Folder Making
Categories of Department
Manesh Kumar, Manager- Maintenance
Guruprasad ME, Assistant Manager Paulraj, Assistant Manager-Utility
Head Mechanic, Head Mechanic, Head Mechanic, Head Mechanic, Peripheral

R&D-Sr.
Mechanic, Mechanic, Mechanic, Mechanic, Sr. Die Maker, Die Maintenance, Sr.
Boiler Operator Electrician, Folder
Electrician- Electrician- Electrician- Electrician- Mechanic Electrician,
Maker
Factory 1 Factory 2 Factory 3 Factory 4 Electrician
Maintenance Team
3.25.2. OBJECTIVES OF THE DEPARTMENT

 This Department mainly focuses on the following three objectives:
o Efficiency: The department tries its best to maintain the best efficiency level
possible. Any deviation from the expected efficiency level is sorted by the tool
like Root Cause Analysis and by holding various QCC meetings.
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o Money: This department develops various spares and machineries
indigenously which final results in cost saving.
o Time: Time is an important factor for success of any industry, so, same is the
case with Laguna. The time loss due to the breakdown incurs huge monetary
loss directly or indirectly and this department tries its best to reduce the same.
3.25.3. PEOPLE INVOLVED IN THE DEPARTMENT

 Various persons are involved for the fulfilment of the duties of the department. Some
are listed below along with their responsibilities:
o Electrician
o Mechanic
o Line In-Charge
o Contracts and Tie-Ups
3.25.4. TYPES OF MAINTENANCE AT THE INDUSTRY
 The types of the maintenance system being followed at the industry are listed below
and are further explained briefly:
o Preventive Maintenance
o Predictive Maintenance
o Breakdown Maintenance
o Replacements
o Condition Based Maintenance
3.25.5. RESPONSIBILITIES OF THE DEPARTMENT
Machine Maintenance
Maintaining Electrical Fittings
Plant Maintenance
Maintenance
Peripheral
Garden Maintenance
Die Cutting Machines
Folder Making
Research and Development

Responsibilities of Maintenance Department
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3.25.6. MAIN FUNCTIONS OF THE DEPARTMENT IN DETAIL
 Below are the functions of the Maintenance department described in detail:
3.25.6.1. MACHINE MAINTENANCE

 There is a separate room in the factory that is just for the repair of the spare and idle
sewing machines.
 For this type of maintenance, they have six mechanics, out of which one mechanic
monitors the machines in the parts section of all the lines on one floor (two mechanics
in total for this purpose including both floors) and one mechanic is responsible for
looking up to the machines used for the assembly purpose of the garment on one floor
(two mechanics in total for this purpose including both floors). There is a senior
mechanic who controls the working of this group.
 As per the preventive maintenance schedule, each machine in the line has to be
cleaned once in a month and needs to be oiled weekly. So, according to this
requirement, each mechanic cleans five machines daily. Verification of this activity is
done by the head mechanic who uses a checklist for this purpose.
 For any major issues, department head along with the senior mechanic and the senior
electrician fix the problem.
 In case of newly installed machines the mechanics are trained by special trainers sent
by the company of the machine itself.
Figure 28: Machine Maintenance Store Room
Image Source: Self
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 The separate room in the factory managing the machines is also equipped with
movable tools box and movable work centres so that they can be brought directly to
the area of problem which helps in faster problem solving and time saving and is also
helpful during style change overs. It also facilitates a needle store that issues needles,
blades, trims, etc. The table below gives the details about the needles along with the
machines in which that is being used:
MACHINES NEEDLES
Single Needle Lockstitch DBX1:7/55Nm

DBX1 : 8/60Nm
DBX1 : 9/65Nm
DBX1 : 10/70Nm
DBX1 : 11/75Nm
DBX1 : 12/80Nm
DBX1 : 14/90Nm
Button sewing DBX17 : 10/70Nm

DBX17 : 11/75Nm
DBX17 : 12/80Nm
DBX17 : 14/90Nm
Button Hole DBX5 : 8/60Nm

DBX5 : 9/65Nm
DBX5 : 10/70Nm
DBX5 : 11/75Nm
DBX5 : 12/80Nm
DBX5 : 14/90Nm
Feed of Arm TVX7 :9/65 Nm

TVX7 :10/70 Nm
TVX64 :11/75 Nm
TVX64 :12/80 Nm
TVX64 :14/90 Nm
TVX7 :11/75 Nm
TVX7 :12/80 Nm
TVX7 :14/90 Nm
KANSAI Double Needle Chain UYX113:9/65Nm

Stitch Machine UYX113:10/70Nm
UYX113:11/75Nm
UYX113:12/80Nm
UYX113:14/90Nm
3 Thread Overlock Machine DCX1 : 7/55Nm

DCX1 : 11/75Nm
DCX1 : 12/80Nm
DCX1 : 14/90Nm
Table 13: Types of Needles used in Machines
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3.25.6.2. ELECTRICAL FITTINGS
 Electrical fittings together with all heat emitting machines are looked upon by the
electricians of the factory.
 One junior electrician is appointed for each floor respectively (2 in total for the same
purpose on both floors), who are monitored by the Head Electrician.
 In the case of the issue in the electrical fittings in the industry, breakdown
maintenance is practiced, that is, any repair work is undertaken only when the
equipment fails.
3.25.6.3. PERIPHERAL MAINTENANCE

 Any repair work in the building is the responsibility of maintenance department.
 This type of maintenance basically includes whitewashing, painting of furniture,
making various marks in different areas like, mending the damaged structures etc.
 For this responsibility, the firm has employed a permanent painter, who is assisted by
people hired from the nearby areas as and when needed.
 Also, there are three gardeners who take care of the lawns in the factory.
3.25.7. RESPONSIBILITIES OF THE MECHANIC

3.25.7.1. BUREAU D’ ETUDE MEETINGS (BDE MEETINGS)
 The BDE Meeting is conducted within 2 weeks after confirmation of order (CON)
with reference to the loading plan.
 The Bureau D’ Etude Meeting is a pre-production meeting where the different styles
are studied among the factory technical and manufacturing team.
 The BDE team is supposed to forecast potential high risks and derive preventive
actions in order to ensure that they do not materialize during bulk production.
 During BDE meeting, the Head Mechanic and manager of mechanical department
discuss the back setting requirements (needle, gauge, pressure foot, feed dog &
folder) for the new style.
 After that, the required folders/ attachments are made ready for bulk
production.
3.25.7.2. FOLDERS/ ATTACHMENTS

 The folders/ attachments are used mainly for reducing the time taken for the
production without the compromising of the final quality.
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 Also, the usage of the folders/ attachments helps in maintaining the accuracy and
precision in the products by making the sewing process uniform and mistake proofing
the process (Poka Yoke).
 The process of making a complete shirt requires about 35 folders/ attachments
minimum (considering the different operations).
 The mechanic should have sufficient knowledge about the folder requirements for
each style and is required to be made ready for the improvement of the production of
the line.
Figure 29: Folder Making Room
Source: Self
3.25.7.3. PRE RUN

 Pre Run is the pilot run that is done two weeks before the final bulk production
loading date.
 This is done for finalization of the patterns, folders/ attachments (depending upon the
availability of fabric, technical specifications, trims and accessories, etc.).
 During the pre-run, the mechanic has to ensure the proper utilization of folders/
attachments to meet the quality requirements of the garments.
 The technical settings are decided on the basis of the style and fabric construction
particulars. The proper technical setting is to be finalized during pre-run process in
order to avoid any complications during bulk production.
3.25.7.4. STYLE CHANGEOVER

 During a style change, the technical settings are to be made as per the style
requirement.
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 Care is to be taken to reduce the time taken for technical setting as this would affect
production.
 The mechanic should ensure the proper working of all the machines, and quality
production with folders / attachments, during the changeovers.
 If needed, some changes in folder setting are to be made to ensure quality
production.
3.25.7.5. MACHINE MAINTENANCE

 The mechanic is responsible for the maintenance of the idle and spare machines.
 This responsibility is discussed in detail in the main functions of the department.
3.25.8. MAINTENANCE SCHEDULING

 For most of the cases the maintenance activities are carried out during the lunch hour
when the machines are free.
 In some cases, they also conduct maintenance activities after office hours in case of
busy schedule.
 They classify their machinery into 3 major categories for which they deal differently
and help them in prioritizing maintenance. The three categories are-
o Critical- Those types of machines whose failure can lead to complete stoppage
of production and are less in number. Ex- Boiler and Die cutting machines
come under this category.
o Sub Critical- This includes the type of machinery whose failure can lead to
stoppage of the line, but the production can be resumed by sharing the work
load with same type of machine in different line. The downtime of these
machines slower the rate of production and Overall Equipment Efficiency of
that line. Ex- Buttonholing and Button stitching come under this category.
o Normal- The type of machinery which are more in number and can be easily
replaced with a spare upon its failure are categorised under normal category.
Ex- Single Needle Lock Stitch (SNLS), Double Needle Lock Stitch (DNLS),
etc.
 The frequency at which generally the maintenance for various machines are carried
out are listed as follows-
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MACHINE TYPE MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
SNLS and DNLS Daily, Monthly and Yearly
Fusing, Cutting and spreading Hourly, Weekly and Yearly
Boiler Yearly
Table 14: Maintenance Scheduling
3.25.9. TRACKING SYSTEM- ANDON

 The industry uses the application “Andon” system, mainly for measuring the
downtime.
 This application is prepared by the I.E. department in the industry itself.
 Downtime is the period during which equipment or the machine is not functional or
cannot work. This may be due to technical failure, machine adjustment, maintenance
or non-availability of inputs like materials, labour and power.
3.25.9.1. PROCESS OF WORKING OF APPLICATION

 The access to this application is given to every person starting from the third level that
is of the supervisors.
 Based on the state of machine the colour of light changes, this change in colour
attracts the assigned personals in the line to attend the breakdown, they then inform
the concerned supervisor who enters the breakdown into a web application with the
help of an android app in their mobile, and the app passes on the message to the
concerned person in the maintenance department. If it’s resolved in the duration of 15
to 20 minutes, the tickets are closed; if not then message automatically gets delivered
to the higher authority of concerned department, and it continues to being passed on if
the issue is not resolved. This way it ensures that the administrative delay is
minimized.
 The format of the message which is passed on to the concerned authorities contains
the follows:
o Machine Number
o Line
o Section
o Problem/ Issue
o Remarks
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3.26. LOGISTICS DEPARTMENT
 The Logistics department is given the duty of taking care of all the import and export
related activities in the organization.
Head- Supply Chain
Assistant Manager-
Sr. Manager- Logistics
Warehouse
Fabric Executive, Trims

Executive, Trims Sr. Executives, Assistant
Outsourcing Executives, Manager, Assistant
Konankunte Warehouse
Logistics Team

 On the receipt of the Purchase Order from the Purchase department and after the
Loading Plan from the Planning department is circulated, the merchandisers are
supposed to give the delivery schedule of the complete order to the Logistics
department so that the Logistics team can do all the required bookings in advance.
 After the production for that particular order is completed, the merchandiser receives
the Packing List from the factory’s Finishing department which is also shared with the
Logistics team.
 Based on the packing list received, the Logistics team makes the required documents
that will be needed while shipping. The documents made ready are like Invoice,
Shipping Bill and many more.
 After the above mentioned documents are ready, the merchandisers check the
correctness of the details filled and then sign the invoice copy.
127
 The signed copy of the invoice is then submitted to the Finance department.
 This copy of the invoice is also sent to the forwarder who will be shipping the order to
the buyer for the booking of the container.
 A sample of the invoice is shown below:
Figure 30: Sample of Invoice
Source: Self
 Further, the Logistics department waits for the shipment permit from the buyer’s side.
 As soon as the buyer gives the approval for the shipment, the goods are picked from
the factory and sent to the port from where the shipment is to be sent.
 While, the Customs House Agent takes care of clearance, based on the documents and
the Shipping Bill is filled.
 After all the customs clearance, the goods are handed to the forwarder for the
shipment.
3.26.3. INCOTERMS
 Incoterms are a set of rules which define the responsibilities of sellers and buyers for
the delivery of goods under sales contracts.
128
 They are published by the International Chamber of Commerce (ICC) and are widely
used in commercial transactions.
 The summary of all the Incoterms are given as under with rules followed in
obligations and charges and party responsible for various costs in various sales
contract are given:
Figure 31: Summary of Incoterms
Source: Self
3.26.4. MAJOR INCOTERMS USED IN THE COMPANY

 The incoterms listed above are explained as under:
3.26.4.1. EX-WORKS or EX-WAREHOUSE (EXW)

 Ex-Works is when the seller places the finished goods at their own premise or at some
other named place, like, works, factory, warehouse, etc.
 According to this contract, the seller is not supposed to load the goods on any
collecting vehicle.
 Also, in case of the clearance required, the seller does not need to clear them.
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3.26.4.2. FREE ON BOARD (FOB)
 The seller delivers the goods on board the vessel nominated by the buyer, at the
named port of shipment.
 The risk of loss or damage to the goods is passed from the responsibility of the seller
to that of the buyer only after the goods are on board the vessel.
 The buyer then bears all the costs from that moment onwards.
3.26.4.3. COST AND FREIGHT (CFR)

 The seller delivers the goods on board the vessel.
 The risk of loss or damage to the goods is passed from the responsibility of the seller
to that of the buyer only after the goods are on board the vessel.
 The only difference between the FOB and CFR is that the port through which the
shipment is shipped is nominated by the buyer themselves in case of FOB, while in
case of CFR, the shipment is shipped from the port as per the decision of the seller.
3.26.4.4. DELIVERED AT PLACE (DAP)

 The seller delivers the goods on the arriving means of transport that will be taking the
goods to the pre-decided destination of the buyer.
 The seller bears all the risks involved in bringing the goods to the means of transport.
 This means of transport is sent by the buyer and the seller is required to make the
goods reach till there.
3.26.4.5. DELIVERED DUTY PAID (DDP)

 The seller send the goods to the port, gets hem cleared for import on the arriving
means of transport that will be taking the goods to the pre-decided destination of the
buyer.
 The seller bears all the costs and risks involved in transporting the goods till the place
of destination.
 The products are not only cleared for the purpose of exports but also for imports.
 The buyer is supposed to pay the duty fees for both export and import and is also
responsible for carrying out the custom formalities.
3.26.4.6. COST, INSURANCE AND FREIGHT (CIF)

 The seller delivers the goods on board of the vessel.
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 The risk of loss or damage to the goods are passed on from the seller to the buyer
once the goods are on the ship.
 The seller needs to prepare the contracts and pay the costs and freights necessary to
bring the good to the pre-decided destination.
3.27. SEWAGE TREATMENT PLANT

 Wastewater treatment is a process used to remove contaminants from wastewater or
sewage and convert it into an effluent that can be returned to the water cycle with
minimum impact on the environment, or directly reused.
 At Laguna wastewater is treated till two levels, which are primary and secondary.
Figure 32: Sewage Treatment Plant
Source: Self
AERATION
SEDIMENTATION
SAND FILTER
ACTIVATED CHARCOAL
SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE
Steps of Sewage Treatment Plant
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 Wastewater from sewage lines is collected in a tank, this water is then aerated for 4-6
hours using pumps and pipes. Aeration of water helps in converting the bad bacteria
into good bacteria.
 The water is then transferred to another tank where it is allowed to sit for 3-4 hours so
that insoluble dirt is sedimented and water is collected in the next tank through sand
filter.
 Once the insoluble dirt is separated, water is treated with activated charcoal filter and
sodium hypochlorite.
 The treated water is then collected in a tank underground. This water is used in toilets
for flushing and to water the garden.
 The residue is collected and is made into compost which is also used in garden.
 Around 5-6 kg of dump is collected per day.
 35000 litres of water is treated per day and is utilised the same day by the industry.
3.28. RANGMANCH
 Rangmanch is an independent body in the organization.
 This body is responsible for conducting the extra-curricular activities throughout the
year.
 This body is led by the COO of the organization.
 This body comprises of 8-10 active members from inside the company who work in
full enthusiasm to make sure that all the people working in the organization indulges
in ‘Fun At Work’.
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CHAPTER 4
PROJECTS
133
4.1. IMPLEMENTATION OF FABRIC CUT PLAN OPTIMIZATION
SOFTWARE- OPTACUT
4.1.1. INTRODUCTION TO THE PROJECT
During the last few years, the Apparel manufacturing companies have been exposed to
high competition from the low labour countries and to constant increase in the production
costs. This in turn has forced the manufacturing companies to aim for increased
competitiveness and profitability that at the end results in the efforts made towards the
better utilisation of the existing resources. (Zhezhova, et al., 2000)
The fabric represents around 70% of the total product cost and is therefore, the single
most important component out of all the other raw materials being used. It is not just a
matter of having good markers (although this is necessary) but also to make sure that the
fabric is being optimally used. (Vohra, 2017)
Among the various processes of the garment production, Cutting is the major area where
the wastage of the fabric is generated. In the cutting room, much attention should be
given to reduce the fabric wastage, for which one method is to the cut order planning
efficiently. (2008)
Cut order planning is the activity of planning the order for cutting, as an input into the
marker making stage so that the cutting room receives complete spreading and cutting
instructions. The cut order planning process is a dynamic function that must respond to
the ever - changing status of many critical factors such as sales, inventory levels, raw
materials, and availability of labour and equipment. The variety of sizes, styles, fabrics
and colours induces significant complexity into the problem. Adding to the complexity,
and thus potentially increasing total production costs, are the question of appropriate
sizes, and the necessity to meet customers’ demands competitively. (Zhezhova, et al.,
2000)
The cutting room has a greater effect on excessive manufacturing costs than any other
department concerned with the actual production of garments. Current industry
approaches for performing cut order planning range from manual ad hoc procedures to
customized proprietary software. Many apparel manufacturing facilities are still using
much unsophisticated methods, depending on the expertise of one individual who has the
necessary data and decision making tools only in his or her memory. Commercial
software for cut order planning has been developed, but effective application requires
extensive customization and the necessary hardware for implementation. (Zhezhova, et
al., 2000)
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Also, even if the company takes the decision and purchases one of the software available,
the main challenge is to bring in the software into practice. The implementation of the
software becomes a great challenge because the operators or the workers working in that
particular factory have been practicing some method else since years, and then they are
supposed to change the method completely and start the work form the initial step, and
thus they become resistant towards the change.
4.1.2. OBJECTIVE OF THE PROJECT

 To compare various Software used for optimization of the Cut Plans.
 To figure out the reasons of the company opting for a particular software.
 To implementation the Software used for the optimization of the Cut Plan, named
OptaCut.
4.1.3. PROBLEM DEFINITION

Laguna Clothing LLP is known for its high quality shirts which is being manufactured for
well-known International brands, like, Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren, Thomas Pink,
Calvin Klein, Dressmann, Le Chemise and many more such brands. Currently, it has got
its manufacturing site only at Kanakapura, Bengaluru and one more manufacturing is
coming up at Ranchi, Jharkhand.
The manual processes in the industry have however proved to be counterproductive to the
company’s growing success, by causing production delays, production errors and mainly
wastage.
A significant challenge was observed in the cutting room of the factory, as excess fabrics
and fabric shortage were causing major inefficiencies in the production. The cut order
being planned in the factory was not optimised that lead to the wastage of time as well as
the resources.
Due to the above mentioned points, the Cutting Room was a bottleneck at the factory.
The production capacity of the unit was 14,000 pieces per day, which was not being
fulfilled. When traced the reason behind the failure to reach the production capacity, it
was found that the production from the cutting room was less due to which the per day
production decreased. Also, it was seen that the order quantity was also not getting
completed and the order being shipped mostly had less quantity of the pieces than
ordered, which ultimately led to the loss of the factory.
The method being followed at the unit was that the cut order plan was prepared manually.
As soon as the order confirmation from the buyer was received, the person from the CAD
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team worked in Microsoft Excel to make the cut order plans. Many cut order plans were
prepared in order to come up with the most efficient cut order plan. Then, the marker was
prepared on the basis of the chosen cut plan. This practice resulted in wastage of time,
also, with no guarantee of the cut plan being the most efficient one. There was always
great number of possibilities of making more efficient plan than the created one.
The system being followed was time consuming and prone to error as it was heavily
reliant on the guesswork and approximated estimations. The lack of digitalisation led to
the manual work which resulted in sometimes too much fabric, sometime not enough,
halted production, unused cutting machines, last minute outsourcing from other
companies. Also, sometimes, when the fabric used to be present in excess in the unit,
excess pieces were produced in order to reduce the fabric wastage, but at the end the
excess garments being made was also a waste as the company was not getting the planned
profit.
4.1.4. NEED OF THE PROJECT

As the Cut Order planning is the initial step of any order planned to be produced in bulk,
it has significant impact on the performance of downstream production functions.
In order to make the entire production system more efficient and more responsive to the
customer’s need, a more comprehensive approach was to integrate the Cut Order
Planning into the strategic and tactical decision making.
In other words, in order to improve the operations, to increase the production capacity, to
integrate processes, to save materials and resources, and to enhance the productivity,
there is a need of the software that can be used for the creation of the optimized cut plan.
Also, after the purchase of such software, the implementation of the same was equally
important so as to get the expected result and observe the improvements happening due to
the use of the software.
4.1.5. SCOPE OF THE PROJECT

The departments that would be considered and would face the major changes are CAD
Department, Merchandising Department, Warehouse, Spreading and Cutting Department,
and Recutting Department in the unit.
4.1.6. DELIVERABLE OF THE PROJECT

A Software used for the creation of the optimized cut plan in less time, resulting in the
efficient use of the fabric, implemented and in use.
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4.1.7 EXISTING APPLICATIONS FOR CUT ORDER PLAN
Below given is a list of the applications that can be used for the Cut Order Plan. These are
only some of the existing applications:
Morgan Dynamics 903 Cut Order Planning
OptiPlan from Lectra
Cut Plan from Optitex
PolyPM
IMA 300 Cut Plan
AMS Cutplan
The above listed software are briefly explained below:
4.1.7.1 MORGAN DYNAMICS 903 CUT ORDER PLANNING

This is a solution offered from Morgan Dynamics, Italy. It includes CAD and product data
management (PDM) in its software product range, and cutter, spreader, fabric loader and
plotter in hardware product range. Thus, it offers possibility of seamless integration amongst
its product range. The only thing that goes against this solution is the lack of many peer
installations for potential investors to compare. (Morgan Tecnica)
4.1.7.2. OPTIPLAN FROM LECTRA

Lectra offers the legendary Optiplan software which was originally developed by Roger
Dennison. The current version is made user-friendly and has many installations for peer
review by potential investors. Lectra also offers CAD and Product Lifecycle Management
(PLM) software solutions and spreader, cutter hardware solutions. The integrated product
engineering solution is the added benefit for future integration while absence of loaders is a
negative. (Fournier-Christol, 2014)
4.1.7.3. CUT PLAN FROM OPTITEX

Optitex Cut Plan is a fairly new offering from Optitex family, known for its legendary CAD
solutions. Optitex started offering cut plan solutions from 2009 onwards as advanced module
under its CAD range of software. Like Lectra it has a strong integrated product development
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software suite, but it does not have its own hardware range of spreaders, cutters and loaders,
making the seamless integration dependent on compatibility with other hardware. Being a
relatively new offering in the market, number of installations is also limited. (efi OPTITEX)
4.1.7.4. POLY PM
PolyPM cut plan is the offering from Polygon Software, US. Polygon software is very old
software, offering CAD solutions to the world market and had a brief presence in the Indian
market during 1990’s. The company recently re-entered Indian market with a whole range of
software solutions. CAD and PLM and integrated ERP gives additional advantage for
seamless interconnectivity, however as Polygon Software does not offer spreader, cutter, and
loader the investor has to depend on other brands for hardware solutions and connectivity.
(polygon Software)
4.1.7.5 IMA 300 CUT PLAN
IMA from Macpi Group of Italy is a fully independent joint-stock company. The IMA range
of products includes spreader, cutter, loader and software solutions like Genious Evo CAD.
Although spreader and cutters are well established, software products are just getting
established. The advantage of IMA cut plan is that its software solutions like CAD, spreading
and roll optimization software are integrated with cut plan software and having own spreader,
cutter and loader is added advantage towards building a total cutting room solution.
(IRANSTRICK)
4.1.7.6 AMS CUTPLAN
AMS Inc. was founded in 1978 in US by apparel manufacturing managers with the goal of
solving the optimization challenges presented in the fabric cutting process. AMS Cutplan is
probably the only company which offers only specialized cut plan software without any other
software solutions like CAD. Although AMS Cutplan have very strong presence in US and
South America, it is relatively unknown in Indian subcontinent. The negative about this
solution is that investor has to ensure seamless interconnectivity with other brands of CAD
software and hardware products like spreader, cutter and loader. (Clothing Industry)
The software chosen by the company was OptaCut.
4.1.7.7. COMPARISON WITH VARIOUS MAJOR CUT ORDER PLANNING SOFTWARE
OptaCut Intellocut Morgan Gerber

User Interface V Good- Good Outdated Outdated
(UI) Material UI
User Very easy to Training time is Training time is Training time is
Experience use. Training very high. very high. very high.
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time is very
less.
Automation Planning 100% Planning 50% No Automation. No Automation.
automated. automated.
4.1.8. REASONS OF OPTING OPTACUT BY LAGUNA

The reasons of choosing OptaCut are:
 The company providing the software is owned by an ex-employee of the company,
which gives them some additional benefits like:
o Continuous Support from the company providing the software.
o Great Monitoring by the Representatives from the company.
o No extra finance needed to be paid for the training purpose.
o Since the owner of the company had the knowledge about the working of the
company, so the customizations to be made in the software was easy.
 The company uses the software named STAGE as the ERP support system, and a
module for the cut plan optimisation is available in the same, but if the company
would have planned to use the module of STAGE for the purpose of cut plan
optimisation, they would have been supposed to purchase the whole STAGE software
with the advanced options, that would have been a more costly option to go with.
 Their optimization algorithms used at different stages of planning is exceptional. They
have shrinkage grouping optimization algorithm, width wastage optimization
algorithm, efficient ratio planning algorithm and roll planning algorithm.
 None of the other software in the market have 100% automated planning.
 Their data analytics is very strong.
 As Laguna is process oriented company and their wastage percentage is very low.
Other companies struggled to show any savings.
 The UI/UX is exceptional good and hence training time is very less. Here, UI is the
User Interface and UX is the User Experience.
4.1.9. FEATURES OF A CUT ORDER PLAN SOFTWARE

The features of a Cut Order Plan Software is listed under the given categories:
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Cut Order Planning
Roll Allocation
Cutting Room Production Planning
Actual Data Collection and Reports
The features are listed below under the given categories:

4.1.9.1 CUT ORDER PLANNING
 Is completely automated
 Handles multiple colours
 Handles large numbers
 Handles any irregular size wise ratios
 Runs complex heuristic & optimization algorithm
 Considers millions of possible alternatives
 Ensures uniform size-wise cutting
 Gives multiple results to choose from
 Prioritizes results based on:
o Minimum Plies
o Minimum Lays
o Minimum Markers
o Minimum bodies to cut
o Handles end bit markers
o Allows user to re-plan during production.
4.1.9.2 ROLL ALLOCATION

 Does Automatic Roll Allocation
 Accommodates all available fabric rolls
 Runs a complex algorithm to find rolls to be used for each marker
 Creates minimum possible end bits
 Ensures that all end bits are used
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 Ensures minimum fabric wastage
 Reduces end bit handling
 Gives huge fabric savings.
4.1.9.3 CUTTING ROOM PRODUCTION PLANNING

 Does Automated Production Planning
 Considers
 Production floor requirements
 Cut-work stock
 Cutting capacity
 Fabric stock
 Makes daily cutting schedule
 Makes daily fabric requirement sheet
 Eliminates last minute surprises
 Shows Alerts
 Gives daily production reports
 Ensures coordination.
4.1.9.4 ACTUAL DATA COLLECTION AND REPORTS

 Easy Interface to enter all actual data
 Updates the system and readjusts the plan
 Compares Plan vs Actual
 Reports
 Production status
 Fabric reconciliation
 Supplier shortage
 Costed vs Marked vs Actual Consumption
 Order-wise profit and loss
 Actual data feedback given to system and automatic readjustment of cutting plan.
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4.1.10 OPTACUT SOFTWARE
4.1.10.1 INTRODUCTION TO THE SOFTWARE AND THE COMPANY
OptaCut is a powerful fabric cut plan optimization software tool which can save up to 3%
fabric, reduce the planning time by 80% and gives an excellent process control. This software
is made by JaZa Software.
This is a cloud based software, which can be used on the Desktop Platforms like, Web App,
Windows and Macintosh.
The Software named OptaCut was purchased by the company so as to bring the changes in
their planning, usage and efficiency.
4.1.10.2 JAZA SOFTWARE
Jaza Software is a start-up company launched in August 2017. It’s based in Bangalore. The
company makes software solutions for the garment manufacturing sector. Their aim is to
bring newer technologies at an affordable cost into this sector which can help companies to
become more competitive by reducing cost at different stages of the supply chain.
The company has been found by a NIFTian who has worked in the production field and
understands the problems and challenges faced by the manufacturing units. He started
working on different ideas to cut cost and improve productivity. He aims to digitalize
complete manufacturing process. Their best software solution is a fabric optimization
software “OptaCut” which can save up to 5% fabric. They are soon going to launch a new
solution “Smart production Management System (SPMS)” which is a comprehensive
software for production monitoring, automated line-balancing, quality management, and
maintenance management.
Their solutions are being used at reputed companies like Laguna, Ranger Apparels and
Madura Clothing.
4.1.10.3 KEY FEATURES OF OPTACUT
The key features of OptaCut are:
 Inventory Management
 Supplier Management
 Order Management
 Status Tracking
 Warehouse Management
 Percent- Complete Tracking
 Resource Management
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 Task Management
4.1.10.4. MAIN FUNCTIONS OF OPTACUT

The main functions of the OptaCut are explained as under:
 Fabric Estimation
o Order only what is needed with the AI Enabled Estimation Module
 Over Ordering is a major challenge faced by the garment industry.
Thousands of dollars are wasted annually in deadstock. It’s one of the
largest sources of controllable wastages.
 OptaCut suggests fabric consumption close to the actual value using
Artificial intelligence and big data analytics.
 Optimised Cut Plan
o Gives the Best Cut Plan Out of Hundreds of Possible Solutions
 Planning Made Easier
 Cut order planning made simple and fast through automation of
shrinkage/width/shade grouping and marker allocation.
 Efficient Algorithms
 Around 20 optimization algorithms used at various stages of
planning to arrive at the best result.
 Simplifying Complexity
 OptaCut handles all complex requirements through advanced
user-controlled settings.
 Roll Plan
o End Bits have been minimised through Intelligent Algorithms.
 OptaCut allocates rolls to markers in an optimal way to
minimize end bits.
 It also generates lay slip/lay plan before cutting which helps
you spread the lays faster with greater accuracy. Costly manual
errors like laying wrong shrinkage, shade etc. can be avoided.
 Feedback Mechanism
o There is a quote by Mr. J.R.D. Tata, “The effective execution of a plan is what
counts and not mere planning on paper.”
o A plan is rarely executed without any change, especially in the garment
industry. During spreading, a roll can have shortage, excess, splitting, etc. The
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software captures all kinds of deviations via tablet on the cutting floor and re-
adjust the plan, if required.
o OptaCut gives live cutting status with shortage details for informed decision
making.
 Dashboard and Reports
o OptaCut provides various micro and macro reports to give an overview of how
the organization is performing.
o The performance of the mills can be reviewed, CAD and Cutting KPIs through
a specifically designed dashboard can also be reviewed. Right reporting helps
in tracking each centimetre of fabric.
4.1.10.5. MANTRA OF OPTACUT

The mantra of OptaCut is to focus on the process or on the Key Performance Indicators in the
organization so as to optimize the use of the resources at the organization and reduce the cost
accordingly resulting in the increase of the profit being earned by the company.
So, in case of the company, the below given is the graph that shows the cost break up on the
resources of the organization.
Figure 9: Graph of Cost Break up at the Organization
Source: Analysis
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This graph shows that the maximum cost spent on the organization is on the Fabric being
purchased. So, the optimum use of the fabric can help in saving a lot for the organization, for
which the organization has planned to use the software named OptaCut.
4.1.11. BENEFITS OF OPTACUT
The OptaCut is a combination of analytical thinking and latest technology for delivering the
transformative results.
The Benefits of OptaCut are:
Saves Time/
Saves Fabric Data Analytics
Manpower
• Saves upto 5% • Automation reduces • Data Analytics does
fabrics through the planning time by not only help in the
excellent algorithm almost 80% helping process control but
planning and in executing more also in strategic
automation. orders with greater decision making by
• the fabric wastages accuracy and identifying the
can be brought control. opportunities.
under 1%.
4.1.11.1. RETURN ON INVESTMENT

• Annual Subscription Charge = Rs. 30,00,000
• Annual cost saving = Rs. 2,50,00,000
4.1.11.2. FABRIC SAVING PROCESS BY OPTACUT
The below given are the steps by which the software, OptaCut saves the fabric:
Order What is Needed!

• The Artificial Intelligence supported Fabric Estimation helps in
ordering only what is needed.
Intelligent Algorithm Planning
• Software algorithms at multiple stages of planning helps to achieve
optimum utilization.
Process Control
• Eliminates the unnecessary wastages, people know their KPIs and
try to work together in order to achieve excellence.
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4.1.11.3. INTELLIGENT ALGORITHM PLANNING
The intelligent Algorithm Planning in the software is mainly used in the following activities,
which are then further briefly described:
 Intelligent Grouping
 Roll Plan Algorithm
 Intelligent Marker Ratio Planning
The above listed activities are briefly explained below:

4.1.11.4. INTELLIGENT GROUPING
Fabric grouping or fabric batching is one of the major processes that can result in
improvement of material utilization along-with improvement in quality control. It is the
process in which fabric rolls are segregated to create fabric groups with similar properties of
width, shade and shrinkage, where each of these criterions can have different implications on
markers, cutting plan, spreading plan and fabric utilization, and have a major effect in the
overall material utilization. (Apparel Resources, 2013)
A good grouping of the fabric is required in order to get the more efficient plan.
Below given is the graph of the traditional grouping of the fabric and the estimation of its
optimality:
Figure 10: Graph of Traditional Grouping
Source: Analysis
In this graph, the x- axis shows the width of the fabric (centimetres) and the y- axis shows the
Quantity of the fabric (Number) of each width. According to this graph, the fabric wasted can
be estimated.
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As in the Group 1, the highest quantity of the fabric is found of the width nearing 147.5 cm,
but the marker for this group of fabric will be made for the fabric width of 146 metres
because it is the smallest one in that particular group, which will lead to great loss of fabric.
Same goes with all the other groups. If we continue using this method, then, the fabric
wastage will be happening on high scale and it would not be possible to use the fabric
optimally, leading to great loss for the organization.
On analyzing the width variations of the fabric rolls coming in to the factory from the
suppliers, the below graph was concluded:
Figure 11: Graph of Width Variation in Fabric
Source: Analysis
The maximum width variation seen in the organization was in the range of -1cm to 1cm, but
when seen on the bulk scale, the non-optimum use of the fabric variating length of this range
too can lead to great fabric loss.
For the optimum use of the fabric, the software plans logically with the use of the algorithms.
The grouping is done in the same manner as done manually and the data is entered in the
software. The fabric is grouped on the basis of the shade, width and shrinkage.
4.1.11.5. ROLL PLAN ALGORITHM
The cut order plan is made based on the segregation of rolls by shade, width and shrinkage
mostly. Mostly the rolls having the same value of shrinkage is planned in a single lay. The
shades of the fabric roll is mentioned in the final developed cut plan so that the spreader can
add a sheet of shade separation which can be used for the further reference.
The fabric with major difference is not used in a single lay, so as to avoid the wastage of the
extra fabric.
The shade, shrinkage and the width details of the fabric is uploaded by the warehouse team
when the inspection of the received fabric roll is done after it is received from the supplier.
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4.1.11.6. INTELLIGENT MARKER RATIO PLANNING
 The Software runs very complex algorithms to plan the marker ratios.
 The planning done by the software is based on the availability of the fabric in each
group so that there is maximum utilization.
 The Software ensures the good mixing of the sizes.
 The Software plans the optimum quantity in maximum possible ways.
 The plan is made in such a way that the quantity is distributed proportionately n each
size.
 The Software also helps in making the order by making optimum number of the
markers.
By doing the activity of Intelligent Marker Ratio Planning, the following can be done:
 More output can be generated using the existing resources through continuous KPI
monitoring.
 Eliminates the scope of data manipulation.
 Improvement areas can be identified through the targeted reports.
 Each centimetre of the fabric can be accounted.
4.1.11.7. TIME AND MANPOWER SAVING USING OPTACUT

Below are the ways in which the time and manpower at the company is being saved after
using the Software by using some activities or processes being performed at the organization.
The ways of saving the manpower and time have been shown as the comparison of the same
activity to be done manually compared with doing the same process using the Software.
 Reporting
o Manual: Need to generate report by collecting the data manually. The number
of reports generated remains limited.
o OptaCut: Automatic generation of reports. The report can be micro and macro.
 Bundling and Ticketing
o Manual: 1 person collects the cutting data, and feeds it into their ERP
software, named STAGE.
o OptaCut: The Bundling and Ticketing details can be generated live just by
clicking one link. No additional manpower is required for this task.
 End Bits Planning
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o Manual: The time consumed in planning for the end bits is atleast three times
more when compared to that of the main markers.
o OptaCut: Through the usage of the Software, the time for planning of the end
bits can be reduced by 50% when compared to that of the manual work.
 Grouping
o Manual: The process of grouping when done manually takes 5 to 20 minutes
approximately.
o OptaCut: The process of grouping when done using the software takes nearly
1 minute.
 Cut Plan
o Manual: The final cut plan can be generated in 5 minutes to 40 minutes,
depending on the complexity of the order and the level of the skill of the
operator doing this activity.
o OptaCut: The generation of the final cut plan hardly takes 1 minute.
4.1.11.8. WASTAGE BREAKUP AND THEIR OPTIMIZATION

The type of wastages in the process being performed in the factory have been listed along
with the ways in which OptaCut optimizes these wastages.
 Excess Fabric
o Over ordering is a major challenge resulting in huge deadstock. In such case,
OptaCut suggests the best consumption using the predictive analysis.
 Parts Recutting
o OptaCut captures all the data related to the Recutting process in real time
which can be used to review the cutting team/ mill performance in order to
bring the issues onto the concerned individual’s or team’s or company’s
notice.
 Defects/ Shortages
o OptaCut generates comprehensive reports for the defects and shortages which
can be debited to the mill.
 Marker Wastage
o The main objective of using the software is to:
 Give better Marker planning.
 Utilise the maximum width of the fabric by smart grouping.
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 The limits of the processes in the factory can be pushed to its
maximum limit by effective monitoring.
 End Bits
o OptaCut minimizes the end bits through roll planning using advanced
algorithm. This Software can reduce the end bits by almost 30% when
compared that to the manual planning.
 End Loss
o It covers a very less percentage of the fabric wastage and even though the
Software may plan less number of plies, there is no observable significant
difference seen.
4.1.11.9. DATA ANALYTICS BY OPTACUT

 The mill performance can be evaluated every season, based on the details fed.
 The size wise distribution by the buyers can be tracked based on the seasons, using
which the consumption of costing can be planned in the best way.
 The marker efficiency can be monitored and compared and then, a new target for
improvement can be set.
 The order quantity can be compared with the cut quantity and the action can be
taken accordingly in order to maximize the shipment quantity.
 The order consumption and the actual consumption can be compared and the data
can be used for making further estimations.
4.1.12. MODULES IN THE SOFTWARE

There are four different modules in the software, each of which are handled by different
departments:
Merchandiser's Module
Warehouse Module
CAD Module
Cutting Module
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These modules are briefly explained further along with the steps performed in these modules:
4.1.12.1. MERCHANDISER’S MODULE
This module has two main activities which is performed by the merchandisers:
 Costing Consumption
o Consumption Checklist (CU Checklist) uploaded by the Merchandiser using a
template.
o Marker Making by CAD.
o Consumption details is available for download.
 Ordering Consumption
o Consumption Checklist (CU Checklist) uploaded by the Merchandiser.
o Marker Making by CAD.
o Wastage/ Extra% details are added by the merchandisers.
o Estimation report is ready for download.
o Based on these details, the fabric is ordered.
4.1.12.2 WAREHOUSE MODULE

This module covers two types of orders mainly which has different steps to follow:
 Non- Wash Order
o Create Fabric.
o Inward the received fabric from the mill.
o Associate the required fabric to the desired Purchase Order.
o Update the rolls details after the fabric inspection.
o Issue the fabric to the cutting department once the cut plan is released.
 Wash Order
o Create Fabric.
o Inward the received fabric from the mill.
o Update the shrinkage details.
o Associate the required fabric to the desired Purchase Order.
o Update the rolls details after the fabric inspection.
o Issue the fabric to the cutting department once the cut plan is released.
4.1.12.3. CAD MODULE

The CAD Module has two main functions to be performed by the CAD Team in the software.
The steps for the same is also listed below:
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 Bulk Cut Plan Process Flow
o CAD team makes Cut Plan and sends for the approval of the concerned
merchant through the Software itself.
o Merchant receives email notification.
o Merchant either approves or asks for revision.
o Once approved, notification to warehouse, CAD and Cutting is given.
o Laying and cutting processes are initiated.
 Approving Cut Plan
o Click on Cut Plan in the navigation bar.
o Search the PO in the search bar.
o Either directly check the cut plan in the software or click on print button to see
the same in pdf format.
o Verify the results.
o Click on Approve button to approve.
4.1.12.4. CUTTING MODULE

This module feeds in the real time data into the software at various stages of the processing.
The stages along with the steps followed in the same are listed below:
 Lay Slip
o Live Feedback
 Filled when the process of laying starts.
 Information about the main lay as well as the remnant lay is fed.
o Re Plan
 Done in the case of shortage of garments with defined reasons.
 Helps in fulfilling the order quantity efficiently.
 Parts Recutting
o Details filled in case of any part of the garment being cut of a particular
bundle, due to the defects coming up during cutting, sewing or finishing.
 Garment Recutting
o Details filled in case of the garment being cut after the main lay cutting of that
particular order is complete.
 Order Completion
o Order is marked completed when the order is ready to get shipped.
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o Also, when the order is marked completed, it means that all the extra fabric
have been sent to the required places, like, if the fabric with length more than
10 metres is there, then that is sent to the warehouse for storage to use it in
future, and if the fabric length is less than 10 metres, then, it is sent to the
recutting department for the recutting required in that order.
Information Gathering
Capture order
Grouping
and fabric
A unique
Cut Plan & Roll Plan
details. In
Laguna, Excel approach
User can
Live Feedback
was used to towards
upload these shrinkage and generate the cut
Each laying
Reports
details. width grouping plan by using
in software. custom settings. table is
The Roll Plan is provided a Once an order is
generated tablet to capture closed, various
automatically the execution micro and
by the software. live. Replanning macro reports
of the order can can be accessed
be done just on of that order.
one click.
4.1.14. IMPLEMENTATION OF THE SOFTWARE AT THE COMPANY

The company purchased the software, OptaCut, and the biggest challenge that came up was
its implementation in the factory.
It was a challenge because the company had been working since years and was following
some particular processes and suddenly a change was going to be brought by automating
some processes. The concerned persons were not ready to change the working procedures
that they had been following since years. Also, people have a conception that if any type of
automations comes to a place, all the errors that were happening will be in light and the
higher authorities would take actions against them.
So, a very basic implementation procedure was followed, so that no inconveniences are
caused and also, along with the implementation, some knowledge about the things every
person would gain was also given, so that everyone at the factory accepts the change happily.
The implementation was done in phases. The phases are listed below and the steps taken in
the same are then discussed later:
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 Exploration
 Installation
 Initial Implementation
 Full Implementation
 Expansion/ Scale Up
The steps taken in each stage are explained as under:

4.1.14.1.EXPLORATION
When the Software was purchased, its implementation was a necessary step so as to actually
achieve the objectives for which the Software was purchased.
For the implementation of the Software, first of all a team was made who would be working
only on the implementation of the Software. That team comprised of some interns, one
employee from the company designated as the Project Manager, and the representatives of
the JaZa Software who provided the Software to the company. This team was also known as
the “OptaCut Team”. There were many other persons of the company who were not directly
involved in the team but came up wherever required.
The details of the Software were studied in detail with the help of the representatives from the
Software company. The details found out were:
 The departments that the Software will focus on are Warehouse, Cutting and CAD
Department mainly, though the other departments will see the changes but a very few
one.
 The main individuals who will be facing the maximum change in this working
procedure.
 The results that will be seen in the initial stage and the main focus areas.
Then, the team members were given the training of the operation of the software and the way
the implementation should start in the factory.
An idea was given to us using which the team members made a framework of the way the
implementation will be done. The ideas were like, the number of new employees who would
be hired for the activities to be performed in order to get the software working.
4.1.14.2.INSTALLATION
 The company purchased the Software, and the vendor sent the representatives for
helping the company in successfully implementing the software along with some
persons provided by the organization.
154
 There were eight lines in the organization in the departments like, Cutting and Sewing
Department. These eight lines are divided among four factories, each factory having
two lines each.
 So, the four tablets were purchased which were planned to be used for giving the real
time feedback, one tablet was planned for each factory.
 Then, the company hired 6 new persons who were capable of handling the tablets.
 These six persons were given the designation of “Feed Back Operators”.
4.1.14.3. INITIAL IMPLEMENTATION

 The Feed Back Operators were given the training in the following steps:
o They were first taught the whole workflow of cutting floor as well as the
warehouse.
o All the Feed Back Operators were trained thoroughly by the team of OptaCut
Implementation, for the valuable data entry on the floor.
 Then, some personnel from the concerned departments, like, CAD, Warehouse and
Cutting department were selected and only they were introduced to the software and
were trained downright to maintain the workflow of the company.
 Only some personnel were trained from each department as the team didn’t want to
disturb the daily production, and in case, the team would have focussed on many
personnel’s training, then, the production of that department would have come to a
halt and that was not needed.
 When the training was given, much resistance was faced from many people in the
organization, so the team created some standard operating procedures. These
operating procedures are shown further.
 Once, the Feed Back Operators were well versed with the operations on the Cutting
Floor, they were then trained for the operations in the warehouse.
 The Feed Back operators were given the details about the overall working of the
warehouse department, and then they were shown the working of the software in the
warehouse.
 The Feed Back operators were not given a very detailed knowledge about the
warehouse operations as there not going to be directly involved in the warehouse
operations.
 The warehouse module training was given to the warehouse team workers.
155
 Then, the Feed Back Operators were given the training about the CAD operations.
Even this part of training was not that detailed, as they were not directly involved in
the operations done in the CAD department.
 Then, during all this time of training, the OptaCut team was available for the floor
itself solving all the types of upcoming issues.
 During the arising issues, the Team was continuously giving the training to the Feed
Back operators about the issues and the solutions provided by the team as the software
was new and so was the concept.
 Then, slowly the floor was handed over completely by the team to the Feed Back
operators though the team was available there to resolve the issues in case that was
not solved by the Feed Back Operators, in case, the issue was something new and
would have never occurred before.
 There was also a group on social media platform especially made for raising up the
issues coming up in the factory and getting the solutions from the concerned persons.
This group had many authoritative persons too that included the Plant Head, Factory
Manager, Cutting Assistant, Warehouse representatives and many more along with
the OptaCut team.
 At the initial stage of the implementation of the software, very few orders were being
done on the Software, so that every individual being involved in with the software
would be nicely trained with each and every minute details of every step. Slowly, the
number of orders being done on the software increased and today, all the orders are
planned using the software.
 Also, there were some complex orders for which the software was not designed
accordingly, but along with the implementation of the software, many customisations
were being made so as to make the software reliable for the company for all the
orders. Today, even the complex orders are planned using the software itself
efficiently and the people working on it are also satisfied with their work.
4.1.14.4. STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURES

The overall working procedure of OptaCut was finalized and a Standard Operating Procedure
was made in order to remove the confusion that would occur based on which step is to be
followed first and what step follows it.
156
Figure 12: Process Flow Activities in Software
Source: Self
The below given is the Standard Operating of the Cutting Room along with the duties
assigned to the specific people, as during the implementation, no one was ready to take the
blames on themselves and thus, a lot of issues were rising up. So, a Standard Operating
Procedure for Cutting Department and CAD department was made to resolve the confusions.
157
Figure 13: Standard Operating Procedure of Cutting and CAD Department
Source: Self
4.1.14.5. FULL IMPLEMENTATION

Though the implementation of the Software was done according to the plan, but there were
many issues coming up still. These issues were not necessarily related to the Software
implementation, but these issues were affecting the results of the orders being planned on the
Software. Also, there were some issues that arose related to the Software. Some of such
issues are listed below along with the solutions provided by the OptaCut team.
 In case of the defects found in the fabric during the process of spreading the fabric
rolls, the part of the fabric that was defected was removed and kept aside, and the lay
end would start from the new cut end. This caused a lot of fabric to be wasted. Also,
the cut parts of the fabric were numbered and kept aside and the Software would plan
the order using them, in case of Replanning. At that time, managing these rolls was
also tough as sometimes, there quantity would be very high. And if the step of
Replanning was not done, then the fabric would get wasted, which was a huge loss.
o The solution to this issue given by the OptaCut team was to tape the defects
using the normal brown tape, and while inspection, these tapes can be
158
removed and checked. If any kind of the defect was found in the pieces, then,
that particular piece was sent for its Recutting in the Recutting department.
 Since, the planning in the Software is done based on the roll allocation. So, the final
lay plan requires the ply to be cut from the exact rolls as planned. Thus, the roll
management on the spreading table is quite difficult especially in the case of more
number of rolls, due to which the spreaders were not supporting the plan from the
software, as in the case of the manual planning, the rolls can be used up till it got
exhausted whereas in the case of the planning through OptaCut, the rolls are required
to be changed as per the plan.
o The solution to this issue given by the OptaCut team was to use the coloured
stickers and each colour was allotted to one lay number. So, the rolls planned
to be used in a lay had the sticker of the allotted to that particular lay number.
The two out of the six Feed Back Operators were sent to the warehouse for the
operation of stickering the rolls. This also led to identification of the missing
roll from the warehouse when they were issuing the fabric rolls to the cutting
department.
 The panels being recut had no records, but in the software, it was required to enter the
details about the process of recutting also as the software has an objective of tracking
each centimetre of the fabric. Since, there was no recording done, none of the operator
was ready to give the data about the recutting on daily basis to be fed in the software.
o The solution to this issue given by the OptaCut team was that new and easy
format was prepared and given to the operator in the Recutting department
which had the information in the same format as needed in the software. Then,
this format was explained to the operators in the Recutting department and
also to the Feed Back Helpers.
 At the start of the implementation of the Software at the factory, the OptaCut team
hired six operators who would handle the tablet for feeding the real time data into the
software, but then the software was purchased to save on the costs being spent, and
hiring six new operator was an additional cost on the company.
o The solution to this issue given by the OptaCut team was that once the Feed
Back were trained to do work in the software, then they were trained for the
other general works too so that the factory dos not bear an additional cost on
them just for keeping the software operational.
159
 Sometimes, after the replanning was done in case of some order, the fabric mentioned
in the roll was not followed exactly as the spreader would have no idea as to the
remaining fabric belonged to which roll number, and this would again not complete
the required quantity.
o The solution to this issue given by the OptaCut team was that whenever the
spreading from a specific roll was completed, the spreader was asked to write
the roll number and the amount of length (in case it was less than 10 metres)
of the remaining fabric at the selvedge of the fabric. This solution also helped
in maintaining the uniformity in shade, shrinkage properties of the planned
lays.
 There were times when the CAD team updated the plan in the software but the non-
updated plan was circulated in the factory, but once the plan was updated, the same
got changed in the software due to which the feedback entry of those orders were not
possible, which resulted in turning the order manual.
o The solution to this issue given by the OptaCut team was that as soon as the
cut plan was given on the specific spreading table, the Feed Back operators
were supposed to cross check the hard copy of the plan with the plan of the
same order in the software. In case of any deviation, they were supposed to
inform the CAD department as soon as possible, so that the required actions
can be taken.
 There were cases when the Feed Back operators also made mistakes while entering
the data in the software which led to wrong tracking of the fabric.
o The solution to this issue given by the OptaCut team was the team gave a re-
training to them so that no more mistakes can take place.
 There were some bugs also in the software that were coming up in the notice during
the implementation.
o The solution to this issue given by the OptaCut team was that the team used to
regularly update the bugs to the company providing the software so as to make
the software efficient in use.
4.1.14.6. EXPANSION/ SCALE UP

The implementation of the software was done successfully which means the OptaCut team
was successful in digitalizing the Cutting department, but then the digitalization should not
stop here, so, the next step is to digitalize the sewing floor in connection with the software at
160
the cutting floor. Slowly, the digitalization of the whole factory is targeted in such a way that
the pieces being processed in the factory can be tracked digitally.
4.1.15. OPTACUT AT A GLANCE
1. Order Creation
Figure 14: Order Creation Page
Source: www.optacut.jaza-soft.com
2. Fabric Creation
Figure 15: Fabric Creation Page
161
3. Grouping of Fabric
Figure 16: Grouping Page
4. Cut Plan
Figure 17: Sample Cut Plan
162
5. Roll Plan
Figure 18: Sample Roll Plan
163
6. Live Feedback
Figure 19: Live Feedback Screen
164
7. Garment Recutting
Figure 20: Garment Recutting Screen
165
8. Dash Board
Figure 21: Dash Board
9. Task Board
Figure 22: Task Board
166
4.1.16. CONCLUSION
The main focus of the software is to optimally use the fabric without causing much wastage
of the fabric. Below given is the graph that shows the fabric consumption summary:
Figure 23: Graph Showing Fabric Utilization
This graph is generated using the details of the orders that are planned using the software.
This shows the successful implementation of the software at the factory as the use of the
same is giving the expected result.
167
4.2. REAL TIME DATA CAPTURING OF CSO AUDITS
4.2.1. BACKGROUND
4.2.1.1. ABOUT CSO- CUSTOMER SATISFACTION OFFICE.
Customers generally glean complacency towards a product or a service based on how

meticulously their needs are met. And earning customer satisfaction is the best way to earn
their fidelity.
And this where department of CSO flares in ensuring buyers abide as a perpetual client.
The CSO department acts as an external agent, runs their own internal audits scrutinizing the
packed products as per buyer stipulations and is authorised to reject/hold the shipment if any
disapprobation are found among requisite standards of quality.
AREA OF FOCUS OF THE DEPARTMENT : The main focus of the CSO department is to
guarantee 100% conformity in the areas:
 Styling
 Stitching
 Trims
 Presentation
 Measurement
 Hand Feel
 Shade
 Labelling
 Pressing
 Packing
4.2.1.2. WORKING OF CSO DEPARTMENT
The department of CSO inspects the final packed orders for customer satisfaction. They
look for any kind of defect related to styling, measurement, workmanship and packaging.
168
Work flow :
Clearance Of Order From Finishing Department.
Ready Order Sent To CSO.
Based On Random Sampling Plan Decided No. Of Pieces Are Re-

Opened From Packed Stage.
All
AQL 1.5 is followed for all buyers. garment of
AQL 1 is used for CHARLES TYRWHITT. tht order
are opened
i.e. 100%
inspection
takes
Inspection. places.
Recorded in Audit Reports. (fig.)
Pass/Fail
Pass Fail
Auditor Signs Shipment Sent for Rework.

Release Slip.
169
Figure 48: Package Appearance Inspection Report.
PACKAGE APPEARANCE INSPECTION REPORT. (FIG.)
170
Figure 49: CSO Inspection Report.
171
4.2.1.3. PRIME AREA OF FOCUS
There are 4 central areas on basis of Inspections are carried on.
They are:
STYLING MEASUREMENT
Defects categorized as styling Measurement Defects are major
defect include technical issues or defects.
discrepancy in consideration to the It include faults in measurement of
techpack. different parts.
Design related faults are Faults are considered defects when
considered among styling defects they are out of tolerance limit of
Example: that particular measurement.
 Makeup & construction based Example:
 Body length measurement.
defects.
 Top stitch, pick stitch error  Sleeve length measurement.
 Trims & accessory or
embroidery based error.
WORKMANSHIP PAKAGE
Workmanship defects are the APPEARENCE
predominantly transpiring defects Defects in appearance of packed
and the one that requires plenty of garments which hamper the look
attention in gleaning a quality of the garment.
garment. Example:
It involves faulty stitching and  Improper ironing.
defects occurring due to human  Shipping marks
mistakes or improper practices of  Barcode misprints.
stitching.  Faulty polybags.
Examples:  Improper folding.
 Uncut threads.
 Bulky stitches etc.
172
4.2.2. PROBLEM IDENTIFICATION
Identifying problems in existing practice which has altruistic interest is a tenacious task, but
there is always a room for improvement. Keeping that in mind the few issues which were
identified were.
PROBLEMS:
1. Manual entries are hard to fill and maintain.
The traditional approach of reporting on paper sheets is a time taking task and bound
to errors, apart from that keeping this huge amount of records is also cumbersome
task.
2. Storage of manual records.

Storing manual records requires a lot space and management , later getting particular
record might be hard .
And this is a low security affair.
3. Lack of Traceability and improper data management.

Tracing a particular audit among such huge no. of audits and that if it is a months or
year old is quite impossible and this sometimes results in misplacement of few
records.
4. Manually analysing the past records is difficult.

Obtaining a single crux of such large data manually is not feasible , and correct result
might not appear ever.
5. The Root cause of rejection remains unidentified.
6. No clear image of the main problem is identified from the buyers end.
173
4.2.3. NEED/REQUIREMENT OF A NEW SOLUTION
For amelioration of the process the requirements were basic concomitant aspects of any
modern age solutions.
The requirements are.
REQUIREMENT 1: REDUCTION IN TIME TAKEN IN RECORDING AND
ANALYSING THE AUDITS.
Time is a considered money and saving time is always a primary or a needed secondary
objective. And saving time and easing work for top most management is highly needed.
REQUIREMENT 2: SHOULD ELIMINATE WASTE.
Waste reduction is one of the most important aspect to keep in mind for a any project here the
waste that needed to be reduced was the excessive reporting structure, different analysis
reports in multiple formats for different authorities. Which results in a large no of paper
consumption and labor hour input too.
REQUIREMENT 3: LOW INVESTMENT,AND GOOD RESULTS.
Any proposed system is checked for the costing for the implementation, maintenance and
cost to sustain. Costing is one of the biggest factors in textile and garment industry,
especially in the present decade, when, business is eroding from the countries like India and
industrialists are working on cost effective methods.
REQUIREMENT 4: FLEXIBILITY IN THE SYSTEM.
One of the most trivial problems in sustaining any kind of system is, it cannot be modify with
time after an extent, basic functionality may be altered for some system but core function can
never be modified. Hence, system should be flexible as much as possible, there should be
possibility of modifications so that it never becomes outdated.
REQUIREMENT 5: USER FRIENDLY.
No high skills should be required to use it at any level be it executer / controller.

The designing of the interface should be in such a way that there should be no complexity to
understand the working.
4.2.4. A DIGITAL SOLUTION WAS FOUND

It's an automatic real-time report generation, web based system which resolves all the manual
problem generated in CSO department.
174
It contains two preface , one for the management & second for the cso department. Cso
department - add/edit/delete any audit. Management department - check and review any of
the reports.
It meets all the requirements and successfully solved all the problems with zero cost
investment.
4.2.5. SCOPE OF THE PROJECT

The department that would be considered and would face the major changes is the CSO
Department.
Quality department and higher management will be benefited by real time reports of the
audits.
4.2.6. DELIVERABLE OF THE PROJECT

A Software used for the recording the cso audits resulting in efficient analysis of majorly
occurring defects and possible defects leading to rejection.
4.2.7. COMPARING TWO SYSTEMS ON BASIS OF PARAMETERS

Deciding parameters for comparing the two work flows is difficult.
The parameters on basis of which evaluation of the system is done are:
 Method
 Time taken
 Analysis of audits
 Ease in getting the major defects.
 Monetary expense
 Retention type.
175
4.2.7.1. DETAIL OF EACH PARAMETER IN TWO SYSTEMS.
PARAMETERS EXISTING PROPOSED

(MANUAL APPROACH) (DIGITAL SYSTEM)
Method Inspection was manually Inspection is done and entery

recored in the inspection is made by cso department in
report , only detail of audit the system, defects and their
weather pass or fail was frequency of each audit is
entered into excel. also stored.
Looking back for reason of Filtered report of long back
rejection meant going audits is obtained in one
through multiple reports click.
manually to understand the Management can go through
problem. the audits status as soon as
Getting summarised to they are entered and no
management a hefty and additional labour required for
unreliable method. report generation.
Time taken A lot of time taken in storing Once the audit is entered into
the reports in a organised the system locating or getting
manner and going through the required report as per
such large data for generating your choice is a job of few
reports clicks.
Analysis of audits Accuracy of the analysis is Automatic report of analysis

not achieved. And the job of audits in visually
requires observing multiple understandable way is
paper reports simultaneously. achieved.
Ease in identifying the major Mostly major defects remain List of majorly occurring
defects unidentified if they are defects is auto generated.
identified it is hefty task
requiring good amount of
time and manual energy.
Monetary expenses Excessive need to labour and No additional cost required
time in analysing the reports in making and implementing
higher monetary expenses the system, rather saves
manual work time and
energy thus reducing cost.
Retention type Multiple files in each cso One common database
office among all three cso offices.
Table 15: Parameters Details
176
4.2.7.2.EFFORT MATRIX FOR DIFFERENT PARAMETERS
PARAMETERS EXISTING PROPOSED

(MANUAL APPROACH) (DIGITAL SYSTEM)
Method High Medium
Time taken High Low
Analysis of audits High Low
Ease in identifying the major Very High Low

defects
Monetary expenses Medium Medium
Retention type High Low
Table 16: Effort Matrix
4.2.8. DEVELOPMENT OF THE NEW SYSTEM

A new web based system was proposed in order to achieve the goal of real time reporting of
audit to higher management for efficient decision making.
4.2.8.1.TOOLS USED IN DEVELOPMENT
5 Basic tools for any system to establish are :
1. Source
2. Input Tool
3. Interface
4. Memory
5. Compiler
MODE TOOL USED

Source
Audit reports
Input Tool Smart Phone, Desktop system, Tab
etc.
Interface Google Form
Memory Google Spreadsheet
Compiler Google Spreadsheet Reports

Table 16: Basic Tools
177
1.SOURCE:
The source used is the manual audit reports
Audit reports
 Audit reports are filled inspection format in hard copy depecting the end status any audit
and also the defects occurring are manually mentioned in it.
 The format of defect to be recorded in the report is also divided as per the 4 area of focus
styling, measurement, workmanship, package appearance.
 The report contains information like :
 Buyer
 lot size
 sample size
 Con no
 total no of defects
 mention of the defects
 pass/fail status of the audit.
In similar structure the UI of system is made to store the information.

2.INPUT TOOL
Any modern age device supporting google docs service can be used as a input tool
Example:
 Smart phones
 Tablets
 Desktop system or laptops
Smart phones being used should have application of google sheets to view the end reports
without any hassle.
3.INTERFACE:
The interface used is google form.
Google forms are google generated interactive forms, which allows a user to submit
unlimited responses, until the permission is being given from source end. A responder just
has to enter the answer against the question displayed.
Benefits
 Google forms are generated for free.
178
 Response for the questions can be of many types, short answer, long answer,
multiple choice, single choice, drop down list, upload file etc.
 Goggle forms are very easy to generate with high flexibility and low maintainence.
 Unlimited number of responses can be submitted for a single form.
 The responses can be directly saved in the google spreadsheet.
Figure 50: Google Form (CSO System)
4.MEMORY PACKAGE APPEARANCE

The tool used as memory of system is googleREPORT.
INSPECTION sheets. (FIG.)
A spreadsheet is an interactive computer application for organization, analysis and storage of
data in tabular form. Spreadsheets developed as computerized analogs of paper accounting
worksheets.
Google Spreadsheets is a Web-based application that allows users to create, update and
modify spreadsheets and share the data live online.
Benefits:
 Sharing with limited rights to edit for certain people.
 Pivot Tables refresh automatically.
 All functions of excel and others useful tools are easily applied.
 Revision History option is available.
179
Figure 50: Google Spreadsheet (CSO System)
5.COMPILER
PACKAGE APPEARANCE
The tool used as compiler is google
INSPECTION
spreadsheetREPORT.
reports as(FIG.)
a final reporting structure.
It showcases the data in visually represented form.
Benefits:
 The reports can be obtained as per end user requirements.
 The generated reports can be accessed from anywhere any time
 The tool helps to even view the instant changes and that are also accountable in the
report generated
 The iteration time for updating in reports is set to 50 times in a minute. Which results
in quick response to change of data.
180
4.2.8.2. CREATION OF A PROTOTYPE
A prototype was made with the help of all above mentioned tool as a model to check the
viability of the system in the actual working environment which helped in realising all
palpable challenges that are inevitable.
2 USERS
CSO DEPARTMENT MANAGEMENT
3 ROLES VIEW REPORTS
ADD EDIT
AUDIT 4 REPORTS
AUDIT
BUYER
CON NO. WISE
DAILY
BASED
PERIODIC
Figure 51: Login page showing two user

login(prototype system)
PACKAGE APPEARANCE INSPECTION

REPORT. (FIG.) 181
Figure 51: First page of add audit (prototype
system)
PACKAGE APPEARANCE
INSPECTION REPORT. (FIG.)
182
Figure 52: Defect report for a particular buyer (prototype system)
4.2.8.3. UNDERSTANDING THE INTERFACE OF THE SYSTEM
Choosing the google forms as a tool of interface makes the system highly user-friendly and
interactive in using .
To make the system further user-friendly and to avoid chances of error due to human
intervention most of the questions in the form are in form multiple choice , drop down option
making sure no irrelevant entry takes place.
Figure 53: Welcome page of the system
183
Figure 54: User selection page Figure 55:Activities that can be done in cso
department login
Figure 56: Order and audit details entry page.
184
Figure 57: Audit pass /fail status entry Figure 58:Selection of area to record styling defect
Figure 59: Styling defect in collar Figure 60: Measurement defects
185
Other defects
Figure 61:Workmanship defects Figure 62: Workmanship defect in sleeve

placket
Figure 63:Finishing defects Figure 64:Other defects
186
Figure 65: Other defects Figure 66:Uploading of manual reports
Figure 67: Types of reports to be viewed by management
187
Figure 68:Daily report overall defect synopsis and no of pass/fail audits.
Figure 69: Detailed defect charts Section Wise
188
Figure 70: Detailed defect charts Section wise for failed audits.
4.3 DESIGN AND DEVELOPMENT OF FOLDER’S CATALOGUE

4.3.1. OBJECTIVE
To make a folder manual for the company.
4.3.2. DETAILS OF CATALOGUE
The company believed in the production of the right products at once, for which the company
used different types of folders for making their work easy and quick.
The company had their own Research and Development department that was also engaged in
the making of the folders as per the requirement.
The company uses the folders that are either made in the factory itself or can get them
outsourced.
The folders that are made in the factory is termed as ‘Laguna Folders (LF)’ and the folders
that are outsourced from other company is termed as ‘Folders (F)’.
189
4.3.3. MANUAL AT GLANCE
Figure 71: Cover Page of Manual
Source: Self
Figure 72 : Folder Contents Page
Source: Self
190
Figure 73: Sample Page of Laguna Folders
Source: Self
Figure 244: Sample Page Of Folders
Source: Self
191
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A

LAGUNA CLOTHING LLP.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, JODHPUR,

Dhananjay Dev Kritika Dhawan Vaibhav Kathpalia

Figure 1: Laguna Clothing LLP, Kanakapura

Image Source: www.justdial.com

To provide formal/semi-formal shirts of exceptional quality and unbeatable value to the

NAME OF THE COMPANY: Laguna Clothing LLP

Table 1: General Information In Nutshell- Laguna India

1.6. LAGUNA: A WORLD CLASS MANUFACTURING FACILITY

1.7. COMPARING PRODUCTION QUANTITY

Semi Formal Washed Shirts

Non- Iron Shirts or Wrinkle Free Shirts

1.9. BUYERS AT LAGUNA

Ralph Lauren Tommy Hilfiger Charles

Mango Man T.M. Lewin De Fursac

La Chemise Jaeger Benetton

Dressman NorthSails Selected

Bestseller Splash IKKS

Tiger of Moss Bros Suitsupply

Image Source: Internet- Google Images

1.10. ORGANIZATIONAL HIERARCHY CHART- LAGUNA INDIA

Rajesh Kumar, Ramesh V., Sandeep A Raut,

Overall Operation Team

Overall Technical Team

HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT

SPREADING AND CUTTING DEPARTMENT

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT

SEWAGE TREATMENT PLANT

Departments at the Company

Middle Ground Floor-A

Middle Ground Floor-B

Floor Wise Plan

Image Source: www.dhgate.com

Figure 4: Components of Shirt

Image Source: www.pinterest.com

2.3. QUANTITY OF COMPONENTS IN A SHIRT

Sr. No. COMPONENT NAME QUANTITY OF

Table 2: Number of Each Component in Shirt

2.4. OPERATION BREAKDOWN OF SHIRT

Table 3: Operation Breakdown of Shirt

3.1.1. DEPARTMENTAL HIERARCHY STRUCTURE

Rajendra, Sr. Smruti Ranjan, Nikhil, Asst.

3.1.2. ROLES OF THE FINANCE DEPARTMENT

Prepares MIS, Budgets And

FINANCE Files Returns And Takes

Interaction With Banks,

Filling With Income Tax

Courier And Job Work

Roles of Finance Department

3.1.4. DETAILED WORKFLOW OF DEPARTMENT RELATED TO PURCHASE

3.1.4.1. DOCUMENTS TO BUYER

3.2. HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT

Image Source: Self

3.2.1. DEPARTMENTAL HIERARCHY STRUCTURE

Assistant Chief Security Welfare

Payroll Jr. Executive- Safety Officer/ Security

Human Resource Team