APPAREL INTERNSHIP at SSAL
APPAREL INTERNSHIP at SSAL
1 RAYMOND LIMITED
Incorporated in 1925, Raymond Group is one of India's largest branded fabric and fashion
retailers. It is one of the leading, integrated producers of worsted suiting fabric in the world, with
a capacity of producing 31 million meters of wool & wool-blended fabrics. It is a $ 500 million
conglomerate fast heading to cross the $ 1 billion mark, with major interests in textiles, ready to
wear garments, retailing, as well as presence in engineering and prophylactics.
In the carded woolen fabric, the group has a joint venture with Lannificio F Fedora, the world’s
premier maker of carded woolen fabric with a capacity of 2.5 million Meters of jacketing and
over coating fabric.
They produce nearly 20,000 design and colors of suiting fabric, that have found their way in over
55 countries including the European Union, USA, Canada, Japan and Australia among others.
Even as their products evolve with the times, the brand still caters to the different faces of 'The
Complete Man'- a man who is caring, sensitive and places a huge premium on relationship.
After making a mark in textiles, Raymond forayed into garmenting through highly successful
ventures like Silver Spark Apparel Ltd., Ever Blue Apparel Ltd. (Jeanswear) and Celebrations
Apparel Ltd. (Shirts). They also have some of the most highly respected apparel brands in our
portfolio: Raymond, Raymond Premium Apparel, Manzoni, Park Avenue, Color Plus, Parx and
Notting Hill.
The Raymond Group also has an expansive retail presence established thro ugh the exclusive
chain of 'The Raymond Shop' and stand-alone brand stores. They are today one of the largest
players in fabrics, designer wear, denim, cosmetics & toiletries, engineering files & tools,
prophylactics and air charter services in national and international markets. All our plants are
ISO certified, leveraging on cutting-edge technology that adheres to the highest quality
parameters while also being environment friendly.
                                                  1
1.2 GROUP COMPANIES
     Raymond Ltd- Raymond Ltd. is among the largest integrated manufacturers of worsted
      fabrics in the world.
     Raymond Apparel Ltd. -Raymond Apparel Ltd. has in its folio some of the most highly
      regarded apparel brands in India – Raymond Premium Apparel, Manzoni, Park Avenue,
      Parx and Notting Hill.
     ColorPlus Fashions Ltd. - ColorPlus is among the largest smart casual brands in the
      premium category. The company was acquired by Raymond to cater to the growing
      demand for a high end, casual wear brand in the country for Men & Women.
     Silver Spark Apparel Ltd. - A garmenting facility that manufactures formal suits, trousers
      and jackets.
 Celebrations Apparel Ltd. - A facility set-up for the manufacture of formal shirts.
     J.K. Files & Tools- A leading player in the Engineering Files & Tools segment and the
      largest producer of steel files in the world.
     J.K. Helene Curtis Ltd. - A leading player in the grooming, accessories and toiletries
      category.
 Raymond UCO Denim Pvt. Ltd. - The manufacturers and marketers of denim fabrics
                                                 2
      J.K. Ansell Ltd. - The manufacturers and marketers of KamaSutra condoms and
       surgical gloves.
      J.K. Talabot Ltd. - Our Joint venture with MOB Outillage SA, manufacturing files
       and rasps for international markets.
Silver Spark Apparel Ltd (SSAL) is a part of an 80-year-old leading business group in the
garment industry, Raymond India ltd. It is a wholly owned subsidiary of the Textile and Apparel
major Raymond Limited. The commissioning of the Silver Spark Apparel plant marks the
Raymond Group's foray into the Global Apparel Outsourcing market, which is expected to boom
post the dismantling of the Multi Fiber Agreement. This unit manufactures suits and formal
trousers catering largely to the export markets.
Set-up at a total project cost of Rs. 42.5crores, this state-of-the-art manufacturing facility has
monthly capacity of 50,000 Jackets and 100,000lacs Trousers. With a total plant built-up area of
200,000 square feet, the facility houses specially imported state-of-art manufacturing equipment.
The specialty of the plant is the superior construction of the jacket, are in line with Italian and
Japanese quality levels, which are known for best quality jackets in the world. Fully compliant
with international quality norms, the facility has been audited and approved for commercial
production by major American and Japanese menswear buyers. 100% of the production is
exported. The major market for the firm is USA, and other markets are Japan, Canada and
Europe. The major clients include:
 Charles Tyrwhitt
 Peerless
 Sacoor Brothers
 Banana Republic
                                                   3
            J C Penny
 Calvin Klein
 300 employees
 Monthly Capacity:
 Jackets: 50,000
 Trousers: 100,000
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2.0 ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE
                                    5
3.0 DEPARTMENTS
2. Sampling
3. Purchase Department
7. Sewing Department
8. Finishing Department
9. Quality Assurance
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3.1. ROLE OF DIFFERENT DEPARTMENTS
                                     7
3.2 VARIOUS DEPARTMENTS OF THE COMPANY
Organization Structure
The GM Marketing/Merchandising heads the department. There are two senior managers
reporting to him, one of the managers is responsible for the trousers and the other manager
is responsible for jacket. The managers are supported by the two and three merchandisers
respectively and an assistant for the marketing and merchandising activities.
 Sample approvals
 Purchase co-ordination
 Generation of BOM
 Delivery of shipment
                                                     8
3.2.1.1 MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
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3.2.2 FABRIC STORE
                     10
 DELIVERY CHALLAN (DC) ENTRY:
 Material Inward
 In house Status
 Status Report
 Item Rate
 Fabric
 Vendor Selection
 Retrieval
 Match ref no
 Verify PO no.
 GRN:
 Inventory
 Po no.
 Store
 Details
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     Copy of commercial invoice
 MATERIAL UNLOADING:
     Invoice check-Invoice no., article no., item rate, item quantity, quality,
      customer reference no., address
 STATEMENT PREPARED:
 BALE OPENING:
 Open packs
 Sort in racks
 Item
 Ref no.
 Color no.
 Buyer no.
 Piece no.
 Order no.
 Supplier
                                                12
      Defect
 Width
 Quality check
 CAD PARAMETERS
 CSV/Non-CSV report
 QUALITY CHECK:
 4 Point system
 SPONGING:
Sponging is done after inspection to give stability to the fabric. It is done as per the requirements
of the buyer. There is only 1 machine for sponging. WEISHI is the supplier.
 PROCESS:
                                                  13
   Time taken by the m/c to do one round of sponging- 7 to 8 min for approx. 350m of
    fabric roll.
 Relaxation time depends upon the type of fabric. It can be 24 hrs. or 48 hrs.
                                            14
Different types of fabric materials are stored in the Stores department. Six types of fabrics
are used:
 Shell
 100% wool
 Polywool
 100% Linen
 Wool Linen
 Cotton
 Pocketing
 Canvas
 Synthetic
 Horsehair
 Classic
 Floating
 Full Canvas
 Half Canvas
 Felt
 Sleeve head
 Body felt
 Collar felt
 Fusing
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              Lapel
 Reinforcement
 Body
 Parts
 Lining
 Sleeve
 Body
 Knee
Fabric is imported from Japan and China. Local sourcing of fabrics is done from Grasim and
Raymond Banswara (80%), GL International, Reiss velvet etc. Lining and fusing is ordered from
Ilshin, Ningvbo, Freudenburg.
Capacity of the stores department for fabrics is 7 lakh meters. The amount of fabrics
currently available in stores is 11 lakh meters.
Invoice is generated by the vendor for the ordered quantity. The buyer (Raymond) generates
the GRN (Goods Received Notes) once the fabric is inhouse.
 100% wool
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       70% wool 30% polyester
    4-point system is used for fabric quality inspection. In this method, penalty points are
        given for fabric defects and total points in the inspected fabric roll is calculated.
        Maximum 4 penalty points can be assessed for any single defect and that no linear
        meter can be assigned more than 4 points regardless the number of defects within that
        piece. Only major defects are considered. A major defect is any defect, if found on a
        finished product, would classify the product as a B- grade.
Up to 3” 1
> 9 inches 4
Slub 3” 2
Warp missing 1” 1
Knot 0.125” 1
                                                     17
                  Weft bar floats             2.5”                  1
Oil stain 3
Stain mark 4
Holes 4
Weft bar 4
Individual Roll Points: All decisions are based on a square meter computation. The following
is used to determine the point count for each roll.
Inspection quantities: 100% quality inspection is followed. The fabric roll is made to slide on
the inclined inspection tables. Capacity of inspection is 1500m per day.
MUNSELL TEST:
 This quality test is conducted for checking color blindness and isolate and arrange 80 hues
 and Chroma of different colors. This indicates their color vision accuracy by their arranging
 ability through their score.
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Figure 5 Fabric inspection machine
              19
 Inspection is done based on 10 parameters. 100% of fabric is inspected. These
   parameters include:
1. Width report –Width at the starting point of the roll, at the center of the roll and
          at the end of the roll is checked. Least width is considered for the marking making
          process.
       3. Shade band –There are variations in shade in same fabric lot. Different fabric
          rolls are graded according to their shades.
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4. CSV report –CSV (Center Shade Variation). Variation of shade in the starting
point, center and the end of the roll.
1 2 3 4
2 1 4 3
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5. Shrinkage report –Shrinkage test is performed before and after fusing the shell
   fabric. Minimum 8 hours relaxation is given for shrinkage test. 10% checking is
   done. It is converted into % and then it is also added to the marker. It is inspected
   on grain.
9. Colorfastness test –For colorfastness test, fabric is rubbed against white piece of
   fabric (Crocking). If there is any color bleeding, fabric is rejected. Also, in the
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                        Figure 11 Colour Fastness Test
10. Seam Slippage Requirement –Two small pieces of fabric are stitched together
   and then stretched to identify the strength and looseness of the stitch. Fusing is
   put to minimize seam slippage. (Centre back, elbow etc.)
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Problems faced by the Stores:
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3.2.3. Trims Store
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MATERIAL UNLOADING
     PO check
     DC (100% quantity check)
     Materials confirmation against VAT packing list
     If OK, store at incoming goods area.
     If not OK, inform to purchase team for necessary action.
QUALITY CHECK
 2.5AQL check
GRN
 Write date.
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     Date of issued and received.
 Tally balance.
TRIM CARD
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Trims Store
   1. Zipper – One bundle has 200m of roll. No. 4 (teeth thickness) is used for Konaka. For all
       other brands, no. 3 is used. Zippers are locally sourced from YKK. Zipper consists of
       plastic teeth with woven mesh and metal slider. Zippers are tested for shade variation in
       sliders and the weave used.
       Tkt. 40
       Tkt. 80
       Tkt. 100
       Tkt. 120 – Sham hole, bartack, Int D Stitching, under collar zig- zag, button attach, X-
       stitch buttons (both CF and sleeve).
Tkt. 180
Tkt. 360 – Zig - zag at end of chest welt, Blind hem, Canvas basting
Tkt. 70 – Straight button hole, Internal saddle stitching – contrast stitch @ Facing
   4. Hook & bar – Hook & bar is locally sourced from Se wing Systems. These are tested for
       their dullness. Both hook and bar should be of equal shine.
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6. Buttons – Plastic buttons with satin finish are used. Size of the buttons used is 32 ligne
   for trouser and 24 ligne for jacket sleeves. These are sourced from Sacoor Brothers and
   Tiger Brothers. Buttons are tested for their shape, shade and number of holes.
8. Labels – Brand labels for BRFS are locally sourced while for all other brands, these are
   imported. Wash care labels for CT is imported from Hong Kong. Materials for these
   labels used is taffeta. Labels are tested for their material, weave, printing, width and side
   folding.
9. Shoulder pads – These are sourced from Orion, Helsa, and Icon, Hyderabad. These
   are tested for their shape and thickness.
11. Stretch bad rolls – These are sourced from QST for BRFS.
13. Packing materials – Polybags, cartons. For BRFS, packing material is locally
   sourced. For all others sourcing is done from Allen Group.
15. Tags – Tags are tested for their print; size and their standard quality is met or not.
 26L – Jackets
 27L
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              28L - Trouser
 32L - Jacket
 36L
 40L
 24L & 32L are the most commonly used button sizes.
GRN is generated using STAGE. GRN contains PO, stamp at the security, invoice number
and date, BOM, remarks and signature of the authorities.
Sewing thread.
Core yarn.
Used in overlock
machine for
Konaka
production.
Pocketing and
sewing thread
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4    Thread          Gutermann          180 tex   100% polyester.
Overlock thread.
Button Attach
thread
6 Button Fashionable 15 L
Buttons
in Konaka jackets.
Inc.
Shaping
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16   Shoulder Pads    Orion
     Waistband
     Curtains and
     Pocketing
18   Linings          Anka Textiles
YKK-Zipper,
Ryyty Apparel
                                  32
ADDITIONAL TESTS PRACTICED IN STORE
CROCKMETER
Figure 14 Crockmeter
TESTING PROCEDURE:
Dry Rubbing
     •Use the holding clamp to mount the sample on the baseboard of the
        Crockmeter. Ensurethe sample lays flat on the baseboard.
     •Two tests are performed, one along the direction of the warp/length and the other
        of the weft/width.
     •Mount a dry crocking square cloth over the end of the peg on the Crockmeter and
        hold it by means of the spring clip provided.
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WET RUBBING
EVALUATION OF RESULTS:
    •   Eliminate the pulled out dyed fibers retained on the surface of the cotton
        rubbing cloth.
• Assess color staining using the Grey scales for assessing staining.
TESTING PROCEDURE:
•The bigger template has Slots in both Vertical & Horizontal direction.
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      •Place the template on sample fabric; please make sure that the fabric is in flat
         position before marking.
      •Hold the template firmly & mark on all slots by a marking pen which easily
         goes inside the slot.
•The marked fabric is washed or dry-cleaned & dried (as per the method required).
TESTING PROCEDURE:
  •   Put the fabric under the GSM Cutter and rotate it to cut a sample circle
      of 113mm diameter.
• The cut sample is 100 sq.cm. The weight of the cut sample is multiplied by 100.
                                                35
  •   The result is the GSM of that fabric.
TESTING PROCEDURE:
  •   The sample to be checked for the color difference is placed on the 45-degree
      viewing angle along with the buyer original.
• Used to match the shade cards used in dyeing for the perfect match of shades.
                                               36
•   Light Source   •   Type of Light            •   Colour Temperature
                                 37
CREASE RECOVERY TESTER
TESTING PROCEDURE:
•Take samples of size 50 x 25mm, in both warp direction and weft direction of the fabric.
    •Place the sample below the weight assembly to crease the sample for 60 seconds
        and then take it out.
    •Clip one end of the sample with a spring- loaded clamp and other is allowed to fall
       free under its own weight.
    •Rotate the disc in a clockwise direction until the free-falling end of the sample
       comes parallel to the vertical arm.
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    •Measure the angle of recovery from the circular measurement scale after 5 min
       of inserting the sample into sample jaw.
TESTING PROCEDURE:
    •By turning the hand wheel, the operator can apply a specific force according
       to the buyer’s requirement.
                                                39
TESTING PROCEDURE:
    •Keep the T-Scale on the sample fabric; please make sure that the fabric is in
       flat position before marking.
    •Hold the scale firmly & mark on the two smaller slots with a marking pen
       which easily goes inside the slot.
•The marked fabric is washed or dry-cleaned & dried (as per the method required).
    •Now place the T-scale in the same position of the two smaller slots and mark at 1
       meter in the perpendicular direction.
    •Now measure the distance between the two 1-meter marks which shows the skewness
       of the fabric.
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TESTING PROCEDURE:
      •Prepare samples of the production seamed panel that reflects the seams to be used
          in the end garment.
      •Samples must be 100mm in width and approximately 150mm in length with the
          seam central and parallel to the width.
•The machine then shows the peak force result i.e. the tensile strength.
The existence of this department is of utmost significance to ensure the effective and efficient
working of the whole unit. The function of this department, in a nut shell, is to prepare a basic
time plan for the whole unit i.e. when to load which order and inform all the related departments
accordingly in the sequence of their working.
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Planning:
This department does all the planning related to the production and the delivery. They do of loading
plans for the lines, fabric details plan and the shipment plans. The department plans the
entire production process from the receipt of the fabric, the cutting plan, the quantity time
of loading, type of fabric to be loaded etc.
           After receiving all this information, PPC talks to the T&A dept. to prepare a
            line plan, style code wise.
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3.2.5. Cutting Department
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Cutting department has five sections:
 CAD
 Pattern Making
 Spreading
 Cutting
 Bundling
 Fusing
CAD section is responsible for making the markers made by the pattern making department and
accordingly release the lay reports and cut order plan.
Spreading department is responsible for spreading the fabric according to the lay reports released
by the CAD department.
Cutting section cut the spread lay according to the online marker sent by the CAD section. Also,
a hardcopy of mini marker is provided to them hence when the pieces are cut, they are marked at
the very moment to avoid confusion.
Ticketing & bundling section number each part so that while sewing proper parts of the jacket or
trouser can be matched.
3.2.5.1. CAD:
CAD section is responsible for making the markers made by the pattern making department and
accordingly release the lay reports and cut order plan. Spreading department is responsible for
spreading the fabric according to the lay reports made by the CAD department. The various
spreading modes include:
 Face up
 Face to face
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CAD Process flow chart
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    3.2.5.2. Pattern Making
                              46
3.2.5.3. Spreading Section:
                              47
Types of laying methods:
 Manual Spreading:
              Manual spreading is done for Lining and Shell fabrics. After the fabric is
               issued from warehouse, it is first blocked, then two persons lay fabric
               according to the length of marker.
              Generally, a lay is of 5–7 m length and a layer of 50–60 plies is made according
               to the cut plan. During spreading all the plies are matched properly on both the
               sides by workers.
 Automatic Spreading:
              Automatic spreading is done for Trims like Fusing, Canvas, Felt etc. only. Fabric
               rolls are first temporarily stored in shelves near the spreading tables. From here
               they are loaded on the automatic spreaders.
Relaying
In case of some stripe and checks fabrics, the alignment in proper position is very important in
order to have a required design match. It is achieved by re-spreading the block cutting layers
with the help of pins and then cutting it precisely on band knife cutting machine to get the ready
cut parts. Block, relay cutting for Konaka – stripe fabric.
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3.2.5.4. Cutting Section
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Cutting Process:
The cutting department receives shell fabric, lining, fusing, canvas, pocketing from the stores,
while referring to the indent.
Along with the fabric, the cutting department also receives CAD markers from the CAD
department, which includes the spreading report and the ratio details. Marker gives an idea about
the lay length.
 Vacuum- 15 cm/Hg
 All the pieces on marker can be given a number and can be cut as desired.
 All cut panel shape and size should match with marker plan.
 Cut plotter marker should be attached to stack of cut part with a rubber band.
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3.2.5.5. Fusing Section
                          51
The fusing parameters (temperature, pressure and speed) are set as per the fabric and interlining
quality. Both woven and non-woven fusing are used as per specifications. The fusing parameters
are:
Fusing Machines
 Total quantity- 3
          The numbering of parts is done for a particular lay in order to avoid the problem of shade
           variation in the garment and to assure the different parts for a single garment from the
           same layer of the fabric.
 In addition, it helps the workers to have a perfect count of the parts and thus, helps in
Panel inspection
          100% inspection of all the parts is carried out in order to check for any defect in the
           fabric, line matching and any other problem.
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   After inspection and rejection, re-cutting of defective parts is done and required
    numbers of pieces are cut of the required part of the required size.
   Then after the cut parts are ready, they are issued to the sewing department, where they
    are bundled for appropriate WIP maintenance.
   The extra rolls are sent back to the store. But the end bits are still kept in the
    cutting department only, till the order is shipped.
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3.2.6. Sewing Department
Process Flow Chart
                           54
Sewing department’s function is the crucial and most vital job in a garment industry. This
department makes the plans, pattern and material in to a garment; this is the place where actual
production takes place. After the fabric is released from cutting, it is passed on to the sewing
department for the sewing. The various parts are stitched together to form the garments. The
sewing section is comprised of:
 Jacket Lines
 Trouser Lines
There are five jacket lines at SSAL, the brief description of their capacity and clientele is as
follows:
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Each Jacket line is composed of 7 Sections except Line-2 and HMS:
 Front
 Lining
 Sleeve
 Assembly - 1
 Assembly - 2
 Small parts
       o Canvas
o Welt pocket
o Facing
o Flap chest
o Pocket bag
 Collar
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The SAM for a basic Jacket is approx. 70-85 min and that for Japanese (Konaka) jacket is
approx. 90-105 min.
The Jacket line follows the UPS system of production. The material moves on
pneumatically controlled overhead hangers, which uses the principle of gravity beautifully.
 Half Canvas
 Full Canvas
 Floating Canvas
 No vent
 Full Lining
 Half Lining
The Jackets produced at SSAL are world class and can be compared with the quality the
quality produced anywhere in the world.
 Calvin Klein
 Michael Kors
 Sacoor Brothers
 Charles Tyrwhitt
 Banana Republic
                                                57
      Peerless
 Konaka (Japan)
 Shell - 22
 Lining - 20
 Pocket bag - 6
 Front - 30
 Sleeve- 13
 Lining- 23
 Small parts:
       Flap Pocket - 3
       Chest Canvas - 3
       Pocket - 2
 Collar- 8
 Assembly - 21
                                                58
3.2.6.2 Trouser Line
 Assembly
In the preparatory section the basic parts of the garment is matched and graded for the
production. Then it is sent to the front and back end line where the front side and the backside of
a trouser are made and finally to the assembly line for the final assembling of the parts. There are
Five trouser lines at SSAL.
 Double pleated
 Single pleated
 Flat front
The material handling and movement in the preparatory and front & back sections is on trolleys
and the assembly lines are based on UPS system.
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3.2.6.3. Waist coat line
 Front
 Front lining
 Back lining
 Assembly
 Single sided
 Reversible
The SAM for a basic waist coat is approx. 36-45min. The line follows the bundle system of
production. The material moves on long tables in bundles.
 Jaeger
 Sacoor Brothers
 Charles Tyrwhitt
 Banana Republic
 Peerless
 Konaka (Japan)
 Shell - 11
                                              60
   Front Lining - 2
 Back lining - 6
 Buttons - 5
 Pocket bag - 4
 Buckle - 2
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3.2.7. Finishing Department
A customer’s interest in a garment is evoked by the final presentation of it in any store. The
finishing department does just that, in the sense that it ships neatly packed goods.
The finishing facility at SSAL is highly mechanized with modern state of art machinery. The
finishing department at SSAL also has the exclusive license to use the “SI-RO-SET chemical”
for permanent crease setting. It is used for both jackets as well as trousers.
Formats Used:
 Alteration file
                                                  62
Process flow of Jacket finishing
                                   63
Process flow of trouser finishing
                                    64
3.2.8. Warehouse department
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66
OVERVIEW
                                                67
Mode of Shipment – Ocean Freight
Containers used are full container load (FCL) and lesser than container load (LCL).
Full Container Load means that all goods in the container are listed on a single Bill of Lading
and are owned by a single party. It does not matter how full the container is. 2 types of FCL
used are 20ft and 40ft.
Container dimensions
                                                68
Tare weight    2229kg         3701kg
                         69
Lesser than Container Load enables importers to ship smaller amounts of cargo that’s not of a
large enough volume. LCL is charged based on the volume, set in cubic meters. LCL shipping
is a cost-effective solution for smaller shipments as you only need to pay for the volume of the
space used.
FCL/LCL Differences:
1.   FCL shipment will be loaded and sealed at origin by your supplier or the manufacturer,
then shipped by a combination of ocean, road or/and rail to your destination.
The LCL shipment will be exposed for consolidating once at the loading port, and for sorting
out again at the destination port.
2.   The bill of lading of FCL shipment will be issued directly by the official shipping
line. The bill of lading of LCL shipment will be issued by the freight forwarder.
3. LCL service charges more than FCL when it comes to shipping cost per unit.
4.   Shipping mark, which is written symbol or symbols that are printed on outer
package, is mandatory for LCL shipment.
In SSAL, GOHs (Garment on Hanger) is shipped through FCL and garment packed in cartons
are shipped through LCL.
Mode of shipment is generally by sea. Nearest port is Chennai. Hence the loaded truck is first
sent to Chennai and then the delivery is done to the respective country. In case of very late
orders, shipment is done through air and the cost of air shipment is borne by the company.
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The incoterms followed for the shipment are FOB (Free on Board) and CIF (Cost, Insurance and
Freight). FOB is the one in which the delivery of goods on board the vessel at the port of origin
is at the seller’s expense. Buyer is responsible for loading fee, main carriage/freight, cargo
insurance and other costs risks. CIF is the one in which the seller must in addition procure and
pay for insurance for the cargo insurance and delivery of goods to the port of destination and the
buyer responsible for the import customs clearance & other costs and risks.
KEY OBSERVATIONS
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3.2.9. Industrial engineering department
Industrial engineering department is the brain of any industry and garment industry is no other
exception. The industrial engineering department is responsible for all the factory operations.
The operation of this department starts from the receipt of the order from the buyer. Once the
customers place the order the merchandise department forwards the order to the industrial
engineering department for the processing. They then prepare the CM cost (cut make cost). This
includes Operational run:
      Standard achievable efficiency, etc. are calculated and forwarded back to the
merchandise department
The operation continues once the order is confirmed. The APS or the Approved Production
Sample is given to the department, here the sequence of the process is studied, and the necessary
suggestions for changes are made if required. And also in the receipt of the confirmed order the
complete operation bulletin is prepared, along with all the attachments, guidelines and files the
documents are forwarded to the production department with all other accessories.
They also have certain functions like going to the line while the batch is set, during menu style
loading and so on. They ensure the process is running smoothly the go for continues checking till
the first product comes out. After that they will have a periodic check for line balancing exercise
for productivity improvement. They also monitor the manpower allotment. The finally the
reports generate, and the performance is evaluated as per the actual target and the achievement
and the same report is sent to the management. The industrial engineering department also under
takes projects, setting up line’s maintenance &utility, R&D activities etc.
                                                72
Figure 24 Productivity report
             73
Figure 25 Operation bulletin
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                         APPAREL INTERNSHIP AT SSAL-2018
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3.2.10. Maintenance department
The department is responsible for all the maintenance activities in the organization. This
department does all sorts of maintenance, the machine maintenance, utility equipment
maintenance, and other maintenance in the lines.
Organization Structure
The Head Manufacturing (GM) heads the department. The Manager Maintenance reports to the
Head Manufacturing (GM) regarding the activities in the Maintenance Department. The
Assistant Manager Maintenance supports the manager and has five senior executive and twenty
junior executives reporting to him.
      Servicing of machine.
      Checking of Boilers for steam.
      Electricity supply—if power is gone then starting of generator.
      Building maintenance.
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      Oil change.
      Replacement of defective parts
      Servicing of Motor.
      Checking of Motor.
3.2.11. IT department
The ERP used is STAGE, on which end to end documents are synchronized from purchase order
till shipment confirmation. The software is updated as soon as the latest version is available. It
has been upgraded 4 times since adopted. It accommodates 50 users.
Other than the ERP, other software usage is in CAD/CAM department. Gerber 6.0 was adopted
in 2004 during the establishment of the facility.
The department follows a proper set Standard Operating Procedures. It states the terms and
conditions about the usage of data by each and every employee along with their login id and
password and other authorization details
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3.2.12. Human resource department
Department Structure
The Human Resource Department is headed by the HR manager, under who is the assistant
manager.
The department also comprises of junior managers for different sectors like Recruitment,
Welfare, Transportation and Payroll. The total strength of the department is 16, including various
office assistants and trainers.
The recruitment can be in various formats like Campus placement Cells, In-office recruitment,
Recommendations or Walk-In Interviews depending on the requirements of various departments
prior in hand with the HR.
Every employee and operator is made to set up a new salary account in which the paychecks
are deposited every month. A muster roll and absentee register is maintained for proper records.
All the operators are on a fixed wage basis. Overtime is paid as double the amount of their
basic.
The HR is also responsible for making sure the presence of floaters and contracted labor.
The welfare segment takes care of the basic amenities of the operators since 95% of them are
female operators. They are provided with the facility of Child-Day care. Also, once in a month,
the operators are engaged in recreational activities.
                                                 78
3.2.13. Quality Control Department
The objective of the quality control department is to deliver quality product by thoroughly by
checking the quality of the product produced the production department as per the
requirement of the buyer.
Quality Assurance department has its presence in every stages of the production. The Quality
Assurance Department’s function starts with receipt of the fabric that is, once the fabric and
trims reach the stores the quality of the fabric and trims are checked. The operation continues
throughout cutting and sewing process.
After each operation the quality checks are done and in the finis hing department a detailed
quality check is done and is sent for alteration in case of any defects, finally approve the trousers
and jackets for packing.
Sub objectives:
Organization Structure
The Head Manufacturing (GM) heads the department. Plant Manager assists the GM in all the
manufacturing activities. The Quality Assurance Manager reports to the Plant Manager. The
shift in charge supports the Quality Assurance managers in the quality checking operations.
There are twelve quality controller and sixty- nine quality checkers reporting to the Quality
Assurance managers.
                                                 79
Quality hierarchy of SSAL
                                               80
Quality in cutting
After spreading, the fabric ply is pulled with the help of perforated paper to the automatic cutter.
100% cut blocks (top/mid/bottom pieces) are inspected with the pattern by stationary
checkers for below mentioned points:
                                                   81
      Quality in Fusing
Quality in sewing
                                                       82
Parts
End line
3. Jacket
                                                  83
Zone A Top-Quality Surface exposed to close customer scrutiny & affecting the
finished appearance of garment. (Front & Back Section of Jacket)
Zone B Surface area where spots are less conspicuous to customer viewing (Under Sleeve
&Upper Sleeve)
Zone C Internal Surface that are somewhat hidden from Customer view. (Inside of Jacket i.e.
Lining)
Trouser
                                               84
      ZONE A: Top quality surface exposed to close customer security & affecting the finished
      appearance of the garment
ZONE B: Surface area where spots are less conspicuous to customer viewing
ZONE C: Internal surface that are somewhat hidden from customer view
Quality in finishing
                                                      85
Made to measure
     Raymond Group Company provides a mass customization to customers of suits and trousers.
     Made to measure typically refers to the clothing that is sewn from a standard size base pattern.
     The base pattern is altered according to the measurement & fit required by the customer.
     The concept behind made-to-measure is to provide the customer a tailored fit garment with high
     quality like readymade garments, with the fabric, trims, style & design according to the need of
     the customer. Since the made to measure garment is manufactured by following the traditional
     method of measurement and industrial method of manufacturing with much attention to minute
     detailing, its quality is like and even better than the ready to wear garments.
            MTM garments are made in industrial way with advanced technology and thus minimize
             human errors.
                                                      86
      MTM gives the customer the advantage of choosing the fabric, style and trims.
 MTM allows the customer to customize the garment from start to finish.
This is a totally separate department at silver spark, which deals with made to measure garments,
i.e. Jackets and trousers. This department started in 2006, but truly it came into existence after a
huge research and development of 2 years in the year 2008.
                                                 87
Working process flow of made to measure garment
                                          88
Terminology frequently used in made to measure (MTM department)
      Try ons- try ons are the jacket/ trouser/ waist coat which is of different sizes and styles. It
       is the set from which a customer uses for the trial purpose. It is always kept in the retail
       store/ shop floor for the trial basis. For men, the try on set is of 5 different drops (0, 2, 4,
       6, and 8) from sizes
      Jacket/ trouser size- the sizes correspond to the half of the chest measurement (for
       jacket) and half of the waist measurement (for trouser). As an example, if the chest is of
       100 cm the size of the jacket is 50. And if the waist is 80cm the size of the trouser is 40
      Drop- it is defined as difference as the difference between half of chest measurement and
       half of waist measurement.
 CAD Department
           o This sub department works on the principle when orders are made by customer in
               the shop and received from the internet or dot net software to the cad department.
               And then this department makes the track sheets, alteration of patterns according
               to the customer requirements, makes the marker, put a sample swatch of the fabric
               and write the code for threads, linings, buttons and wash care labels.
           o There is a various collection of fabric and trims that is stored in the form of rolls.
               The collection may be of all black, exclusive collection, premium jacket, premium
               collection, premium trouser, wool rich and pure wool. Also, there is collection of
               labels, threads, buttons, and hook and bar, etc.
 Cutting Department
           The fabric is received from the fabric store with the help of track sheet. The fabric is
           spread, cut, numbered, fused, ready cut and checked before it is loaded to the sewing
           lines.
                                                 89
 SEWING DEPARTMENT
    o This department receives the input from the cutting department. All the cut parts
       are attached sequentially in order to make the desired product. During sewing,
       quality is maintained at each operation and the final product is quality approved.
       The various operations in this department are the sewing, trimming, quality
       check, etc.
 FINISHING DEPARTMENT
    o The stitched garment is sent to the finishing department for the final finish of the
       garment. This department enhances the look. They provide a final touch to the
       garment through ironing and finishing tools.
 PACKAGING DEPARTMENT
    o The finished garment is packed into the corrugated box and is taped properly
       to prevent any kind of damage that can be caused to it during shipment.
 DISPATCH
    o The packed garment is then supply to the concerned store where the order
       was placed, through the courier service
                                        90
  PROJECT 1:
WIP MANAGEMENT
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4.2 ABSTRACT
This project documents the efforts to create standardize value stream in both trouser and jacket.
The project majorly includes monitoring information related to WIP, defects occurring, machine
reliability, time taken in the whole process, and other various aspects in the concerned stream.
Value Stream Mapping (VSM) is done based on time study of the selected sewing line (in both
trouser and jacket) and analyzing the current stream with comparison to the future stream
considering a relevant logic behind the same. This helped to overcome the WIP present at
various operations in line and showcasing the various techniques through which it can be
reduced. Finally, this leads to the development of a comparative Value Stream showing both the
current and future stage VSM.
Keywords: standardize, sewing operations, work-in-progress, defects pre hundred units, time
study, machine reliability, process time, cycle time, lead time, customer demand, takt time, work
content.
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4.3 INTRODUCTION
The project conducted in The Company, helps to create a standardize value stream and also helps
in maintaining WIP; it also helps in generating OB, SAM and performs line balancing. It is
entitled “VALUE STREAM MAPPING in TROUSER and JACKET”
Value Stream helps you visualize more than just the single-process level, i.e. assembly, finishing,
etc., in production. You can see the flow. It helps you see more than waste. Mapping helps you
see the sources of waste in your value stream. It provides a common language for talking about
manufacturing processes. It makes decisions about the flow apparent, so you can discuss them.
Otherwise, many details and decisions on your shop floor just happen by default. It ties together
lean concepts and techniques, which helps you avoid “cherry picking”. It forms the basis of an
implementation plan. By helping you design how the whole door-to-door flow should operate —
a missing piece in so many lean efforts — value stream maps become a blueprint for lean
implementation. Imagine trying to build a house without a blueprint!
It shows the linkage between the information flow and the material flow. No other tool does this.
It is much more useful than quantitative tools and layout diagrams that produce a tally of non-
value-added steps, lead time, distance travelled, the amount of inventory, and so on. Value-
stream mapping is a qualitative tool by which you describe in detail how your facility should
operate in order to create flow. Numbers are good for creating a sense of urgency or as
before/after measures. Value-stream mapping is good for describing what you are actually going
to do to affect those numbers.
III. Reducing non-value-added activities across the product line and assembly line.
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Value stream Value stream mapping, a lean manufacturing tool, which originated from the TPS,
is known as “material and information flow mapping.” This mapping tool uses the techniques of
lean manufacturing to analyse and evaluate certain work processes in a manufacturing operation.
This tool is used primarily to identify, demonstrate and decrease waste, as well as create flow in
the manufacturing process. VSMs can be created merely using paper and pencil; however more
advanced maps are created using Microsoft Visio as well as Microsoft Excel. Below you can see
an example of a very basic VSM created with Microsoft Visio.
Value stream mapping is a lean manufacturing tool which helps in defining, documenting &
analysing the value stream of performing processes for continuous improvement. It is not just
defined processed but the best possible method in order to make even more improvements later
with the help of identifying waste and improvement in inventory with the reduction in lead time.
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Value stream mapping, a lean manufacturing tool, which originated from the TPS, is known as
“material and information flow mapping.” This mapping tool uses the techniques of lean
manufacturing to analyses and evaluate certain work processes in a manufacturing operation.
This tool is used primarily to identify, demonstrate and decrease waste, as well as create flow in
the manufacturing process. VSMs can be created merely using paper and pencil; however more
advanced maps are created using Microsoft Visio as well as Microsoft Excel.
The first step, identifying the product, consists of choosing which specific product the VSM will
focus on. After the product used has been chosen, an initial VSM of the current process is
created. Following the completion of the current map, the team evaluates the process and the
steps involved. All this information is then compiled on a map and analysis is performed. On a
typical VSM every step of the process is included. For each step, parameters could include cycle
time, TAKT time, work in progress (WIP), set up time, down time, number of workers, and scrap
rate. A VSM identifies where value is added in the manufacturing process. It will also show all
other steps where there is non-added value. After analyzing and evaluating the current process of
the product, the problem areas can be identified. Once you have changed the current process to
minimize problem areas completely, you can create a final state VSM. The last step of the value
stream mapping process is to implement the new ideas, which will in turn create a more efficient
lean manufacturing process.
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  1) Bottle neck: The operation or function with the lowest capacity, usually the operation
     with the longest cycle time per unit. The bottle neck sets the limit for the production pace
     and thus the capacity of the entire process.
  2) Buffer: Inventory between operations. Compensates for differences in cycle time (lack of
     synchronization) between operations.
  3) Customer demand: The number of products that the customers are expected to buy or
     order during a certain time period.
  4) Cycle time: The time required to complete one cycle of an operation; or to complete a
     function, job, or task from start to finish. For automated or compound processes, the
     cycle time is the time between each output from the process.
  5) Inventory: A collective term for stored goods. Inventory can be placed before (incoming
     goods), within or after a process (finished goods).
  6) Inventory lead time: Waiting time that the products spend in inventory or buffers.
     Calculated by multiplying takt time and average number of items in inventory.
  7) Non-value-adding time: Time spent on activities that do not directly add value to the
     product. These activities are usually needed to support value-adding activities.
  8) Operation time: Total time that is dedicated to a product in a specific operation. Equals
     changeover time plus process time.
  9) Takt time: Frequency or pace of production required to meet customer demand. Defined
     as available time divided by customer demand. Sometimes the term customer takt time is
     used to mark the difference from the production pace (production takt time).
  10) Value-adding time: Time spent on activities that add value to the product, i.e. what the
     customer is prepared to pay for. Usually indicated by the process time.
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   11) VSM: Abbreviation for Value Stream Mapping. Sometimes also used for indicating the
       Value Stream Map itself.
   12) Waste: Anything that slows down the value stream without benefit. Usually defined as
       unnecessary transportation, inventory, motion, waiting, over processing, over production,
       and defects.
   13) Work in process: Often abbreviated WIP. Indicates products that are somewhere in the
       production chain, usually before the finished goods inventory. Also: Work in progress.
   14) Kaizen burst: A Kaizen burst, also known as a Kaizen blitz, refers to a short burst of
       activity that solves a problem with intensity and urgency. It allows the user to easily
       evaluate the areas of improvement and work on it.
Topic: Value Stream Mapping and Work Standardization as Tools for Lean
Manufacturing Implementation: A Case Study of an Indian Manufacturing Industry
Result: The conclusions reached from this work are the following: (i) standardization and line
balancing gave appreciable results upon implementation over CNC machine cells (ii)
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standardization gave a setup time reduction of 290 minutes and a reduction of about 118 minutes
in cycle time (iii) the process has become smooth without any mismatch between planned time
and production time, enabling hazel free work atmosphere (iv) Kaizens made for standardization
made it easy for operators to work freely without any stress (v) line balancing approach of
effective man power utilization resulted in manpower reduction without affecting output.
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Work in progress (WIP) is a form of inventory, usually unfinished goods which still require
further work, processing, assembly and or inspection. This type of inventory is usually found
within steps or sub-processes of a production process. This is major problem area in which
solution must be given.
As some of the operations need more cycle time, they become bottle neck operation of the
production line as they hamper the streamline flow of the line and the daily production output is
reduced because of them. For eliminating the non-value-added time and reducing the necessary
non-value-added time from them, Process Standardization is needed.
The cycle time is the time taken to produce a part, which is measured from the start of injection
until the end of clamp open time. High cycle times reduce productivity and increase costs and
result in more bottleneck operations.
As most of the jobs performed in any production line is reviewed and approved by the buyer of
that line. Almost 90-95% operations of the same product are same in all the buyers and that can
be standardized. Buyer can be convinced that this is the better method of performing activity
which will lead to more production and less alteration. For example, Buyer Peerless requires
stamping (printing) on the pocket flaps whereas all other buyers require ticketing, printing have
more benefits over ticketing like Less SAM (no additional time for removing tickets), no stain
marks from gum of ticket, permanent accountability. So other buyers can also be convinced to
use printing method by Standardizing method of doing things.
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This is a big problem faced by sewing section, as the loading is feed by cutting department so
many small parts gets missed. A lot of time of operators is wasted in searching for the missing
pieces and sometimes re-cutting is also done for missed parts. Proper standardized way should be
used to keep the parts in line. Proper shelves for different parts must be defined and it should be
placed in those racks to ease the work of sewing operators to look for any pieces.
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4.5 METHODOLOGY
The methodology involves several different steps for the different initiatives undertaken to
complete the project and its implementation. The general steps to be followed are mentioned
below. The methodology of each initiative shall be discussed further on in detail. The project
design is described below.
The general method that was followed is mentioned in the steps below. After thoroughly
understanding the process, problem areas were identified. Relevant data was collected and
analyzed. A proper brain storming was done. Solutions for some problems were developed. The
solutions were tested on the floor to assess their contribution. The performance of the new
process was compared to that of the old process to help quantify the amount of material saved in
the new process. The basic required activities and their procedure to complete this project are as
follows:
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In the first week, the factory was visited. The processes in the factory were observed through
direct observation. Queries were answered in unstructured interviews with factory personnel.
The interviewees were chosen based on non-probabilistic convenience sampling.
One Trouser Line and One Jacket Line was selected and all the operations in that style studied
and understood. Time Study through Stop watch was done to calculate the cycle time of all
sewing operations and other data such defects per hundred-unit, machine reliability, work in
progress and number of operators in each line.
• Work in progress for each station as well as for each section was noticed.
• Machine breakdown was considered for various operations and was also included in VSM.
Data was collected from the related departments. Data was obtained from primary sources, with
the help of individual, unstructured interviews and from secondary sources by reviewing the
records maintained in the factory. Bihourly production report was collected from the line.
Through non-behavioral analysis of the records, the data was analyzed.
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After the generation of current stage VSM based on the data collected the future stage VSM is
generated based on logical reasoning. OB, Line Balancing and SAM were generated by the excel
software for a new garment.
i. List of the styles running in the area selected to execute the project.
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4.6.1 METHODOLOGY
Figure 36 Methodology
 The operation which was being performed was observed keeping in mind the criticalness of the
 operation as well as the workstation was also observed.
4.6.2.1 TROUSER
1. DEPARTMENT WISE WIP: Station wise WIP was calculated for 7 consecutive days.
          Before
  1                       0         0           440        0        400      400       400        400
          laying
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8 Preparation 70 60 97 85 60 60 100 53
Panel 70 60 97 85 60 60 100 53
9 Pairing 60 85 52 60 44 47 42 60
     Front       &
10                   96    78    72         87    97       91        54        66
     Back
13 Quality 35 40 71 40 32 28 40 32
14 Finishing 54 42 43 24 48 27 61
15 Inspection 30 25 40 57 29 17 28 36
16 Packing 88 24 52 67 68 43 68 69
17 Alterations 11 17 13 35 18 26 8 14
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      Cutting
                      1048     1048         1105        1430     1480     570       540         440
      WIP
      Sewing
                      597      518          565         604      543      616       685         529
      WIP
      Loading/St
                      705      290          760         629      260      1220      950         1130
      ock
Total WIP 1645 1566 1670 2034 2023 1186 1225 969
3 Numbering 0 0 0 0 0 0
4 Recutting 0 50 0 0 0 35
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9 Pairing 65 32 30 30 20 64
13 Quality 22 14 23 22 50 47
14 Finishing 36 61 27 27 34 66
15 Inspection 68 56 49 49 28 39
16 Packing 39 31 14 14 60 53
17 Alterations 65 18 14 8 14 25
2. TIME STUDY: Time study for different sections is given by section wise:
The cycle time is recorded in seconds and the pitch time for the given data was 48 sec.
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 PREPARATORY SECTION
WAISTBAND PREPARATORY
POCKET PREPARATORY
         INSIDE OUT POCKET BAG AND    11.4   12.0   11.5     11.4    11.2
3        TOPSTITCH                    1      9      2        4       1      11.53
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                                                   13.2     14.8
5     FACING OVERLOCK 3TOL           9.87   6.89   3        7       7.89   10.55
FRONT PREPARATORY
1 KNEE LINING PINLKING (20) 8.94 7.83 9.85 9.10 8.89 8.92
BACK PREPARATORY
FLY PREPARATORY
                                                            10.8
2     RIGHT FLY OVERLOCK             9.86   9.26   10       2       9.93   9.97
3 ZIPPER ATTACH TO FLY (DNCS) 3.45 3.9 4.13 3.82 3.69 3.80
4 PIPING ATTACH TO LEFT FLY 7.89 7.12 8.23 8.98 7.33 7.91
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LOOP PREPARATORY
PAIRING
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18 POCKET BAG TOP CLOSE 6.91 6.77 6.43 6.72 6.29 6.62
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 ASSEMBLY SECTION
                                                                                            C
S.NO. OPEARTION                            C1          C2      C3      C4          C5       (AVG)
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9 RIGHT FLY LINING ATTACH 42.15 33.68 31.95 38.38 35.82 36.40
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         BARTACK    AT    CROTCH   TO
30       SEAM                            24.77   34.97   29.73   32.12   31.87    30.69
                                                 100.1                   111.4
32       TRIMMING                        81.22   7       77.45   89.4    3        91.93
 FINISHING SECTION
                                                                                  C
S.NO. OPEARTION                          C1      C2      C3      C4       C5      (AVG)
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29 June 2018 69 28 34 90
30 June 2018 40 36 ^ 55
02 July 2018 38 31 25 41
03 July 2018 53 33 ^ 54
04 July 2018 50 22 ^ 50
05 July 2018 82 40 ^ 69
06 July 2018 68 38 28 27
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07 July 2018 61 37 ^ 24
09 July 2018 76 35 35 51
10 July 2018 91 34 ^ 39
4. MACHINE RELIABILITY
                      MECHAN                  PROBLE
                                                         BREAKD
           OPERATI    IC        MECHANI M
DATE                                                     OWN           PROBLEM
           ON NAME    INFORM    C IN TIME SOLVED
                                                         TIME
                      ED TIME                 TIME
           BOTTOM
02-07-18              02:00     02:00         02:20      20 MIN        JUMP STITCH
           HEMMING
           BOTTOM
04-07-18              02:45     02:45         03:15      30 MIN        JUMP STITCH
           HEMMING
           POCKET                                                      NEEDLE
07-07-18              10:00     10:00         10:15      15 MIN
           FACING                                                      BREAK
                                                                       PRESSURE
09-07-18   J STITCH   09:00     09:00         10:00      1 HR          CLAMP
                                                                       CHANGE
                                                                       LINING
09-07-18   SERGING    03:00     03:00         03:20      20 MIN
                                                                       PROBLEM
                                                                       NEEDLE
12-07-18   BARTACK    04:00     04:00         04:30      30 MIN
                                                                       BREAK
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                                                                    CUTTING
16/7/18   BARTACK    02:00   02:00         02:20      20 MIN
                                                                    PROBLEM
                                                                    TRIMMING
18/7/18   BARTACK    03:00   03:00         03:20      20 MIN
                                                                    PROBLEM
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4.6.2.2 JACKET
1. DEPARTMENT WISE WIP: Department wise WIP was calculated for 7 consecutive days
2 Numbering 20 0 0 0 0 0 0 128
3 Recutting 0 30 12 19 27 20 13 10
9 Pairing 60 67 65 114 70 60 29 34
10 Assembly 65 78 65 70 70 86 30 35
11 Quality 0 0 7 21 10 7 10 0
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12 Finishing 88 64 50 55 65 70 40 36
13 Packing 77 10 10 5 22 33 0 0
14 Alteration 5 17 4 18 5 16 12 12
2 Numbering 480 0 35 0 0 7
3     Recuting          50           20          26           3                15               60
4     Fusing            153          25          161          29               24               200
5     Bundling          248          0           200          350              55               200
11 Quality 0 3 2 0 0 1
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12 Finishing 35 45 65 76 50 48
13 Packing 0 6 5 17 12 6
14 Alteration 18 13 7 13 7 7
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TIME STUDY:
The cycle time was recorded in seconds and the pitch time for the given data was 51.08 sec.
                                                                                               C
       S. NO.    OPERATION                       C1          C2       C3        C4      C5
                                                                                               (AVG)
FRONT SECTION
                                                                                19.3
       1         CANVAS MARKING                  17.6        25       20.2              17.5   19.922
                                                                                1
                 SIDE     PANEL
       5                                         47          48       46.49     44.6    52     47.618
                          ATTACH (LEFT &
                 RIGHT)
       6         SIDE PANEL PRESSING             37          32       37        40      39     37
                                                                                25.0    27.3
       7         ARMHOLE TAPE ATTACH             22.99       23       21.37                    23.952
                                                                                2       8
                 BREAST
                                                                                24.6    23.5
       8                                         21          20.89    30                       24.022
                 POCKET      MAKING       AND                                   6       6
                 IRONING               USING
                 TEMPLATE
                 BREAST POCKET ATTACH
       9                                         38          36       32        33      32     34.2
                 ON LEFT PANEL
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                                                                 27.8
11   BREAST POCKET ZIG-ZAG 26.6         26.04   25.58    27.2           26.66
                                                                 8
                                                         13.0
13   FLAP PRESS              18.38      14.1    15.12            15     15.124
                                                         2
                                                         18.6    16.7
16   FLAP POCKET PRESSING    18.38      14.31   17.36                   17.08
                                                         4       1
                                                         33.0
22   BLIND HEM               32.44      38      35.26            39     35.544
                                                         2
     BODY     PRESS
23                           181.73                                     36.346
              (POKA- YOKE)
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      FRONT
31                              NA
      INLINE       INSPECTION
      (QUALITY CHECK)
      CANVAS ZIG-ZAG & TWO-                                  18.0    16.2
32                              25.01       21.39   17.91                   19.726
      CANVAS ATTACH                                          3       9
                                                             13.9    13.9
33    FELT ATTACH @CANVAS       14.03       13.27   13.44                   13.726
                                                             7       2
LINING SECTION
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     FACING    ATTACH
5                                50         50      51       56      55     52.4
               TO LINING
     ADDITIONAL         LABEL
12                               38         40      45       35      32     38
     ATTACH
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      COLLAR     ATTACH
16                             50         51      56       58      51     53.2
                 TO LINING
      PANEL
17    LINING SEAM PRESS        61         64      70       75      58     65.6
SLEEVE SECTION
                                                           28.6    22.4
2     SLEEVE VENT LOCK         17.64      22.12   18.69                   21.922
                                                           8       8
                                                           18.2    19.6
3     VENT LOCK PRESS          17.63      15.74   19.91                   18.236
                                                           2       8
                                                           18.5    20.6
4     VENT MAKING              21.57      17.75   21.59                   20.02
                                                           4       5
      SLEEVE            ROLL
                                                           19.3    25.3
7                         AND 19.7        24.02   18.34                   21.364
      HEAD                                                 8       8
      GATHERING
      MAKING
      SLEEVE            ROLL                                       41.6
8                              40.43      45.26   42.84    49             43.832
                                                                   3
      HEAD ATTACH
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                                                                 37.8
9     ELBOW SEAM LINING      32.11      35.1    32.45    41             35.698
                                                                 3
                                                         48.2    47.9
12    INSEAM SLEEVE PRESS    48.71      47.74   49.39                   48.412
                                                         6       6
                                                         48.0    47.5
13    SLEEVE TACKING         46.64      52.5    43.31                   47.614
                                                         7       5
COLLAR SECTION
                                                         13.9
1     COLLAR MARKING         14.4       15.66   14.02            13.9   14.392
                                                         8
                                                         13.0
4     NECK BAND ATTACH       13.67      14.01   13.4             12     13.218
                                                         1
                                                                 15.5
5     COLLAR CORNER STITCH   15.6       16.7    14.89    15.3           15.608
                                                                 5
                                                                 22.3
7     COLLAR BASTING         22.3       24.89   21.99    20.2           22.354
                                                                 9
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ASSEMBLY SECTION
                                                         43.0
1     COLLAR MARKING        32.35       33.46   41.28            37.2   37.474
                                                         8
3 COLLAR ZIG-ZAG 32 33 38 54 38 39
      BOTTOM        &
7                           100         128     110      105     108    110.2
                    VENT
      MAKING
8     COLLAR PRESSING       86          72      82       84      59.8   76.76
                                                         31.4
10    BUTTON HOLE MAKING    29.3        28.34   30.82            30     29.984
                                                         6
                                                         20.0    19.3
11    BUTTON HOLE BARTACK   19.23       18.86   15                      18.494
                                                         2       6
                                                         55.8    59.4
16    ARMHOLE BASTING       57          49.28   60                      56.312
                                                         6       2
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      ARMHOLE
17                            158         162   188      155     163    165.2
      LINING CLOSE
18    SLEEVE KINARI           48          37    38       58      40     44.2
FINISHING
2 SLEEVE PRESSING
9 TOUCH UP 44 42 41 40 43 42
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4. MACHINE RELIABILITY
                                          MECH              PROB
               LI
                                          ANIC     MECH     LEM         BREAKD
               NE   OPERATION
DATE                                      INFOR    ANIC     SOLV        OWN          PROBLEM
               NO   NAME
                                          MED      IN       ED          TIME
               .
                                          TIME     TIME     TIME
                                                                                     KNIFEE
03-07-18       J1   AUTO ZIG              12:30    12:30    02:00       1.5HRS       PROBLEM
                                                                                     BOARD
04-07-18       J1   SINGLE NEEDLE         05:10    05:10    05:30       20MIN        PROBLEM
                                                                                     THREAD
05-07-18       J1   BUTTON HOLE           11:30    11:35    11:50       26 MIN       TENSION
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                                                                      ZIG             NOT
10-07-18   J1   AUTO ZIG        01:30   01:35   02:30    60MIN        MOVING
                POCKET                                                BOARD
04-07-18   J2   WELTING         12:30   12:30   02:30    2 HRS        PROBLEM
                                                                      BOARD
05-07-18   J2   SLEEVE BUTTON 09:10     09:10   09:25    15 MIN       PROBLEM
                BUTTON                                                NEEDLE
23-07-18   J1   ATTACH          03:10   03:10   03:30    10           BROKEN
                                                                      BOARD
07-30-18   J1   SINGLE NEEDLE                            20
                                05:10   05:10   05:30                 PROBLEM
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4.6.3 OBSERVATION
4.6.3.1 TROUSER
Through time study and pitch time/takt time, bottleneck operations were identified.
       Target = 600pcs in 8 hours (480 minutes)
i.e. time for 1 piece to come out of line = 0.80 minute (48.00 seconds)
All the operations whose cycle time was above 48 seconds were not considered as bottleneck
operation as some operators were new and some were catering to absenteeism.
1. Loop placement
With consent from production manager and line supervisor, out of all the operations these 8
operations were selected because they were bottle neck as well as critical to quality operations:
3. In seam attach
5. Loop attach
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4.6.3.2 JACKET
Time for 1 piece to come out of line = 0.87 minute (52.36 seconds)
Note: areas taken under consideration while choosing for bottlenecks are as follows
1. New operators
2. Absenteeism
Findings: bottle neck as well as critical to quality operations as per study are as follows:
5. Side seam
3. Collar attach
3. Peak sew
5. Sleeve attach
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The data collected in the previous section helps us to generate data for the current value stream.
4.6.4.1 TROUSER
The following data was summarized from the data collection for different sections/stages in
vsm.
1. STORE
WIP(PCS) 2000
NUMBER OF OPERATORS 9
2. CUTTING SECTION
WIP(PCS) 400
NUMBER OF OPERATORS 29
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WIP(PCS) 250
NUMBER OF OPERATORS 1
4. PREPARATORY SECTION
WIP(PCS) 90
NUMBER OF OPERATORS 19
5. PAIRING SECTION
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WIP(PCS) 15
NUMBER OF OPERATORS 1
WIP(PCS) 180
NUMBER OF OPERATORS 19
7. ASSEMBLY SECTION
WIP(PCS) 120
NUMBER OF OPERATORS 36
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8. FINISHING SECTION
WIP(PCS) 160
NUMBER OF OPERATORS 8
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9. WAREHOUSE
WIP(PCS) 4100
NUMBER OF OPERATORS 3
PROCESS TIME(MIN.) 0
4.6.4.2 JACKET
The following data was summarized from the data collection for different sections/stages in
vsm.
1. STORE
WIP(PCS) 800
NUMBER OF OPERATORS 9
2. CUTTING SECTION
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WIP(PCS) 871
NUMBER OF OPERATORS 20
3. PREPARATORY
WIP(PCS) 264
NUMBER OF OPERATORS 28
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4. PAIRING
MACHINE RELIABILITY NA
WIP(PCS) 58
NUMBER OF OPERATORS 1
5. ASSEMBLY - 1
WIP(PCS) 50
NUMBER OF OPERATORS 14
6. ASSEMBLY - 2
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WIP(PCS) 21
NUMBER OF OPERATORS 15
7. FINISHING
WIP(PCS) 56
NUMBER OF OPERATORS 15
PROCESS TIME(MIN.) 7
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8. WAREHOUSE
WIP(PCS) 2358
NUMBER OF OPERATORS 3
PROCESS TIME(MIN.) 0
Based on the data collected and observations made the future stage vsm is generated in various
sections in accordance with the following reasoning.
1. STORE
              The WIP in the store should be kept according to the loading plan, i.e., order
               which are to be loaded in the line in the next two weeks should have their raw
               material available in the store.
2. CUTTING SECTION
 The WIP in cutting section is directly dependent upon the sewing section.
              The cutting section holds WIP equal to the amount of loading done in the
               sewing line in a day.
3. SUPERMARKET SECTION
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        Supermarket area for both cutting and line holds the total pieces that to be
         loaded in the line in that day.
4. PREPARATORY SECTION
        In this section the pieces are introduced in the line in form of either bundle
         system or unit production system (UPS).
          ii.   In case of UPS, the WIP considered for each station is 3 where the first
                piece is considered as going to the next station, the second on which
                the operator is currently working and the third which he/she will
                receive.
5. PAIRING SECTION
        In this case the WIP depends on the part that is usually coming after all the
         other panels present at the pairing table.
        In both jacket and trouser front is the last panel that comes on the pairing
         table, after which the operation of pairing happens.
        In this section the same logic as that of UPS is applied as discussed in the
         preparatory section.
7. WAREHOUSE
        The basic rule for warehouse is that the pieces should be received 2-3 days
         before the Ex-factory date.
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4.6.5.1 TROUSER
The following table showcases the data for WIP for both current and future VSM -
4 PREAPARATORY 90 80
5 PAIRING 15 20
8 FINISHING 160 40
CURRENT STAGE:
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FUTURE STAGE:
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4.6.5.2 JACKET
5 PAIRING 58 120
6 ASSEMBLY 1 50 39
7 ASSEMBLY 2 21 27
8 FINISHING 187 50
CURRENT STAGE:
FUTURE STAGE:
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4.7. IMPLEMENTATION
4.7.1 APPLICATION
  1. It should have a pre - existing database containing ID’s and Passwords for the
     concerned stakeholders.
  2. Every employee will be able to enter data for their own respective line with exception
     for few. After sign in, the concerned stakeholder will move to the menu page.
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 Update WIP
5. LINKS
 Update WIP
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  1. The line will be displayed as per the user details. E.g. If the employee is for trouser
     line 4, it will automatically show “Trouser line 4 “in line section.
  2. The drop-down menu for “Style No.” will only display that styles that has being
     updated by the loading plan.
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3. The “Section” drops down menu will have the following sections:
 Bundling
 Parts(Jacket)/Preparatory(Trouser)
 Pairing
 End line
 Finishing
 Numbering
 Bundling
 Parts/Preparatory
 Pairing
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4.7.1.4 BUNDLING/NUMBERING
  1. As per the order selected, for the respective line, the number of pieces for shell/lining
     for the respected part and their respected ticket number is updated.
  2. The bundling sheet is to be linked to the cut summary, the updated WIP will be stored
     in the cutting summary database.
  3. The drop-down menu will have the all parts for jacket/trouser depending on the user
     for both shell and lining.
  4. The blocks below will contain the batch of ticket number as entered by the
     operator/user.
  5. The table below will display the lays cut (as per the cutting summary) and their
     respective status.
  6. The back and next button will take the operator/user back to slide number 3 where
     they can select a different style and then further update for it.
  7. The submit button will update the WIP for the style selected and update in the table
     below.
  8. Once the button SUBMIT is clicked and WIP is updated, the existing information is
     cleared out so that it can be entered again for a different part on the same page.
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9. These are the following parts that will be available for jacket and trouser:
 Jacket
1. Shell
 Front
 Back
 Side panel
 Top sleeve
 In sleeve
 Facing
 Flap
 Brest pocket
 Pocket bone
2. Lining
 Front
 Side panel
 Back
 Sleeve
 In sleeve
 Trouser
1. SHELL
 Front
 Back
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 Right fly
 Left fly
 Waistband
2. LINING
 Knee lining
4.7.1.5 PARTS/PREPARATORY
     1. The buttons present are the ticket number present on the panel (as mentioned in
        bundling) that must be colored as mentioned above for each part.
The operator first needs to select the part that he/she must enter, then select the ticket no. as
mentioned. Once the user has selected the same ticket no. for all parts it should automatically
turn green showcasing that that garment has been cleared out in the line and has been sent for
pairing.
2. The back, update and next button will work as mentioned above for slide 4.
 Trouser
 Waist band
 Front
 Back
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 Right Fly
 Left fly
 Jacket
 Front
 Sleeve
 Lining
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4.7.1.6 PAIRING
   1. Will work the same as the parts sheet. Once all the parts are selected or are available
      for pairing, it will automatically turn green indicating that that garment is ready for
      pairing.
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4.7.1.7 END-LINE/FINISHING
  2. First the different Fits (regular, slim, large, etc.) are displayed that are present in that
     order (as per the cutting plan) that the user will select. Then the respective user will
     add in the respective size category through the ‘+’ and ‘-‘button till all the garments in
     that particular size are updated.
  3. Once all the garments are updated in a particular size (as determined by the loading
     plan) the ‘+’ and ‘-‘sign will disappear and an indicator will appear that that particular
     type of garments has been received or gone for packing.
161
  2. File format that is being uploaded has to be saved in a form of database through
     which various values such as style number, quantity, size, fit, etc. has to be selected.
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2. Order numbers displayed in the drop-down menu will be as per the loading plan.
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3. File is to be attached and uploaded and saved in the form of a database linked to the
   loading plan for that style to help retrieve data for bundling, etc.
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 Line wise
 Department wise
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1. If the user clicks on “LINE WISE”, then this page will open.
2. This page gives the department wise summary for all lines in different sections.
  3.   By clicking on the line number (For E.g. Jacket line 1) it will take us to where a
       graph will show representing WIP in
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4.7.1.12 GRAPH
   1. It shows the WIP for that line in visual format which is easy to understand for any
       external person other than that of the line.
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1. This page will showcase the total WIP in each section that has been entered by its user.
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 CUTTING
 NUMBERING
 BUNDLING
 SUPERMARKET
 PARTS
 PAIRING
 ASSEMPLY
 ENDLINE
 FINISHING
 PACKING
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  1. Once this page is opened, the user selects the line for which he/she wants the WIP in
     that section.
2. After selecting the line style no. and their respective WIP is displayed in the table.
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  1. CUTTING: WIP is calculated as the difference between the numbering WIP and the
     number of pieces left in the cutting plan.
3. SUPERMARKET: WIP is calculated as the difference between bundling and parts WIP.
4. PARTS: Last ticket no entered in the SM and the pieces passed entered by the user .
5. PAIRING: Difference between pieces passed and pairing data entered by the user.
6. ASSEMPLY: WIP is calculated as the difference between pairing and end-line WIP.
9. PACKING: WIP is calculated as the number of pieces that are completed from finishing.
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4.8. CONCLUSION
4.8.1 SUMMARY
The future scope for the topic which we have covered is very high. As the project deals with a
new ground and gives us a further scope to exploit the things for best learning and
implementation in the industry.
In spite of the automation used in the industry there is scope for more automation as proposed in
our project.
One thing that is important to note about VSM is that it is based on a good’s dominant logic.
This can be seen quite clearly in the language that is used and the idea that value is created in the
process and ‘transferred’ to the customer.
Some services can be organized with a good’s dominant logic, especially when the degree of
customer involvement is low and there is a clear step-by-step process in which the work is
handed over between functions or departments. Many administrative processes work well
according to this logic. However, in many service operations, the degree of customer
involvement is quite high, which will generate high variability and reduce the possibility of
standardization. In such cases, we need to apply a different logic and a different perception of
value. With this service dominant logic, the customer creates value, and the objective of the
service is to facilitate this value creation. This makes it difficult (or even meaningless) to apply
VSM, and perhaps a traditional process mapping and analysis is a better approach. Although
VSM is a useful method in many cases it is not a universal solution. Every tool has its
limitations.
4.8.2 SUGGESTIONS
As shown in the above section, it is suggested that the application too be implemented in order to
monitor WIP in each section which will further help to identify the major bottleneck section and
help in rectifying it.
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PROJECT 2:
PROCESS VALIDATION
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5.2 AUDITING:
There are three discrete types of audits: product (which includes services), process, and system.
However, other methods, such as a desk or document review audit, may be employed
independently or in support of the three general types of audits.
Some audits are named according to their purpose or scope. The scope of a department or
function audit is a department or function. The purpose of a management audit relates to
management interests such as assessment of area performance or efficiency.
An audit may also be classified as internal or external, depending on the interrelationships among
participants. Internal audits are performed by employees of the organization. External audits are
performed by an outside agent. Internal audits are often referred to as first-party audits, while
external audits can be either second-party, or third-party.
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     Process audit – A verification that processes are working within established limits. It
      evaluates an operation or method against predetermined instructions or standards to
      measure conformance to these standards and the effectiveness of the instructions. Such an
      audit may:
      Check conformance to defined requirements such as time, accuracy, temperature,
      pressure, composition, responsiveness, amperage, and component mixture.
      Examine the resources (equipment, materials, people) applied to transform the inputs into
      outputs, the environment, the methods (procedures, instructions) followed, and the
      measures collected to determine process performance.
      Check the adequacy and effectiveness of the process controls established by procedures,
      work instructions, flowcharts, and training and process specifications.
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    an internal audit conducted by auditors who are employed by the organization being
    audited but who have no vested interest in the audit results of the area being audited.
   A second-party audit is an external audit performed on a supplier by a customer or by a
    contracted organization on behalf of a customer. A contract is in place, and the goods or
    services are being, or will be, delivered. Second-party audits are subject to the rules of
    contract law, as they are providing contractual direction from the customer to the
    supplier. Second-party audits tend to be more formal than first-party audits because audit
    results could influence the customer’s purchasing decisions.
   A third-party audit is performed by an audit organization independent of the customer-
    supplier relationship and is free of any conflict of interest. Independence of the audit
    organization is a key component of a third-party audit. Third-party audits may result in
    certification, registration, recognition, an award, license approval, a citation, a fine, or a
    penalty issued by the third-party organization or an interested party.
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A process audit is an examination of results to determine whether the activities, resources and
behaviors that cause them are being managed efficiently and effectively. A process audit is not
simply following a trail through a department from input to output - this is a transaction audit.
Processes generate results therefore for an audit to be a process audit it must establish whether
the results are being generated by an effectively managed process.
An effective process is one that achieves the results that are intended – i.e. the objectives. An
effectively managed process is a process in which the activities, resources and behaviors are
planned, organized and controlled in a way that the outputs achieve specified objectives
Manufacturing Process Audit systematically examines the acts and decisions by people with
respect to quality to independently evaluate and report the degree of compliance to operational
requirements of the quality program. Also, is relevant in determining the specifications of
contractual requirements. The audit makes sure to examine the accounts to confirm that they are
in order. It is conducted by an authorized person for providing an independent assessment of
software products and processes to assess compliance with requirements. Serves as a systematic,
independent and documented process for obtaining audit evidence on evaluating its objective to
determine the extent to which audit criteria are fulfilled. The independent evaluation of software
products or processes is performed to ascertain compliance to standards, guidelines
specifications, and procedures based on objective criteria. It assists as a process through which
the content of products produced are evaluated to ascertain compliance to standards or
guidelines.
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      Assists companies and businesses in monitoring corrective action results and performing
       follow up monitoring to determine if the corrective actions have eliminated the problem
       or if further action is required.
      The Manufacturing Audit assists companies and businesses to verify that no new
       problems have developed or entered the process.
      Helps businesses and organizations to determine and perform corrective actions by letting
       employees make suggestions for corrective actions and select any appropriate options
       while at the same time allowing the management to make the final decision as to which
       corrective actions are to be implemented.
      Documents any problems discovered and informs all those affected.
      Helps organizations and businesses not to assign blame in as far as problems are
       concerned but to find a solution for the same.
      Improve businesses thus achieving success.
      Improve on the quality management audit.
      Improve on manufacturing strategy.
      Helps companies and businesses especially those in the manufacturing sector to
       determine flexibility requirements in their manufacturing facilities.
      Acts as a powerful tool for continued improvement.
      Assists companies and organizations in crafting their production systems.
      Used by companies and organizations to gauge their compliance to operational
       requirements of quality programs.
      Assists companies and organizations to assess their overall organization performance.
Technical Audit is a very crucial task of garments manufacturing. Every buyer (Customer) do a
technical audit before placing an order to any garment’s factory. Many garments buyer have their
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own technical audit checklist, Audit must be done routine wise time to time. Through Technical
Audit, auditor’s assurance of ability to make export quality garments of garments maker.
Technical audit checklist can vary buyer to buyer.
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      Factory Warehouse
               Product identification, FIFO-LIFO, storage items tracking system and inventory
               Mold prevention system, relative humidity %, and controlling system
               Trims, accessories and fabrics storage using pallet or rack
               5S implementation effort
      Trims and Accessories Inspection
               Approved trim card for every running style
               Inspection procedure and lighting
               Rejected items isolation and keeping an isolated area
               Third party or supplier internal test report of all Trims and Accessories.
               Complain against the failed product to the supplier and replace, show documents.
               Fabrics Inspection and Procedures
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      Carton Warehouse
             Carton keeping system
             Mold prevention system, relative humidity %, and controlling system
             Packing, inventory and delivery/shipment system
             Moisture percentage checking in garments
             Carton weight report, scan and pack system
      Final Quality Audit Room
             Location of Audit room separated from production area or not
             Available necessary for final Audit; approved sample, trim card, inspection table.
             The customer required a light source
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End of an audit, auditing party make a report with their comments where requirement does not
meet as per standard or customer requirement. Audit result by the scoring system by marks
(Performance rate) or classify Good, alert and risk. Supplier takes corrective action as per 3rd
party auditor or customer recommendation for their customer requirement.
      Audit observation/findings
      Auditor recommendation/Comments
      The corrective action plan of supplier
      Estimated completion date
      Progress status
      Follow up improvement
As per audit checklist report by an auditor, a supplier must fill up customer requirement by a
certain time. Customer follows up improvement of CAP in every week or month. If the number
of CAP decrease after every month, supplier improving towards customer requirement. Anytime
or after certain period buyer audit again.
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Process Confirmation is “a tool or method that provides managers with an adequate level of
confidence in process quality and repeatability”. It involves going to where the work is being
done and confirming that the way is it being done works and is in accordance with the
organization’s policies and procedures.
      Confirm that formal work standards exist (in other words, ‘do we have a defined process
       for that particular activity?’)
      Confirm that the formal work standards meet customer need and adhere to corporate
       policies (‘are we asking staff to do the right things in the right way?’)
      Confirm that the formal work standards are being followed by all staff (and if not, why
       not? For which the usual answer is ‘it doesn’t work!’)
      Recognize people when standards are worked to in full (process confirmation is not about
       catching people out, but about being honest about what is working and not working)
      Ensure the reliability of performance data (are we capturing the right data in the right way?)
      Identify deviations from standards
      Identify competency issues and close the performance and skills gaps to eliminate
       deviation (if people are trained by the people who were trained by the people who were
       trained by someone who received the original training, all without any real
       documentation, then do not be too surprised if they have not captured everything they
       need to know!)
      Continually eliminate waste.
We use Process Confirmation to test that our current processes and systems work and are
followed by staff. Testing through confirmation shows that we value every process and person. If
people are struggling, then we should find out about it early and be able to help them before they
fail more dramatically.
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The project – process validation is based on the principle of internal auditing to improve the
S.O.P followed or to check whether the followed S.O.P is correct or not or need any further
monitoring. Internal rigorous auditing is carried out through checklist of each department which
contains the list of processes to be followed and a P.V board for each department which displays
the audit results as percentage and score. Each department is assigned an auditor who performs
the audit on regular basis and updates the P.V board. Implementing the internal auditing system
in the S.O.P itself will improve the external audit performance and lowers the chances of
deviation from the standard process.
•      Ethical conduct: to keep a check on whether process followed is ethically correct and
employers are well versed with their responsibilities.
•      Fair presentation: fair presentation of processes which are followed, and which are not
followed through percentage and score on P.V board so that corrective action plans can be taken
against those processes.
•      Professional care: to keep a check that mistakes are not happening due to lack of
professional care and operators are getting proper professional aid when any problem arises.
•      Impartiality: internal audit will help to point out mistakes arising from the exact point in
an impartial manner and to acknowledge the importance of every process.
•      Evaluations based on evidence: internal audit will help to make different evaluations and
decisions like changing process, changing the machine or training the employ as the audit will
provide physical evidence of scope of improvement through audit score and percentage.
•      Competence: regular audit will gradually help in identifying and rectifying loop holes in
processes which will lead to improved process, less chances of mistakes and hence will yield
higher productivity.
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Generally, audits fail to deliver maximum result due to lack of audit preparation, audit criteria
elements or checklist driven, auditor skills and knowledge, commitment from the management,
and bureaucratic reporting. So, to conduct a successful audit which yields maximum result one
should follow a defined audit frame work and conduct audit according to that framework.
Framework may vary organization to organization.
The audit framework can be broadly categorized into 3 major steps and few sub-steps under that:
   1. Audit planning: it is the first step of audit process which includes all the planning process
       like studying the process and preparing documents against which audit can be performed.
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Checklist is a tool for questioning and getting the required information to achieve the goals.
Checklists are the set of documents to help the audit. Checklist fulfils the criteria for quality
assurance requirements of construction activities. It checks activities to ensure compliance with
the plans and specifications. It informs the officials of any work that is in noncompliance.
Application of checklists informs the officials of deficiencies, so that corrections can be made,
and retesting performed prior to covering any substandard work with additional material. Now,
not only checklists help to produce quality, defect-free work, it also helps in developing
documentation of your quality practices. Checklists are valuable evaluation devices when
carefully developed, validated, and applied. A sound evaluation checklist clarifies the criteria
that at least should be
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considered when evaluating something in a area; aids the evaluator not to forget important
criteria; and enhances the assessment's objectivity, credibility, and reproducibility. Checklist is
useful in planning an enterprise, monitoring and guiding its operation, and assessing its
outcomes. In the evaluation vernacular, checklists are useful for both formative and summative
evaluations.
Checklists serves as the main tool for conducting process validation audits as it contains all the
valid processes to be followed. Auditor uses those checklists to carry out the audit and checks
each process mentioned in the checklist without fail. Those checklists are validated by the
signature of the respective department head as well as the auditor. Auditor then gets the
percentage of process followed as well as process not followed by simple formula which directly
gives the scope of improvement in each department. The score generated after each audit is then
evaluated for further development. The outcomes of checklist also help to create a corrective
action plan against each process not followed and keep a check on the processes that whether
they are followed properly or not.
Checklist for each department is prepared separately after thorough study of that department and
a booklet containing the checklists and general instruction for audit is then prepared and kept in
each department respectively.
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Initial observation of ongoing S.O.P and working of each department and noting it down.
Identifying processes which are either present but wrong, not present or present but not required.
    Discussing the checklist with respective department head as well as quality head and getting the approval
                                                    of checklist.
  Creating a final format which includes column for score and signature of department head, auditor and
                                        person responsible for corrective action.
 Preparing a booklet of checklist for each department which contains general instruction for auditing and
 checklists to carry out audit.
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A process validation audit board is put in front of each department which displays the score of
each audit as percentage of improvement. The audit board contains information such as
department head name along with picture, score of current audits with last date and rank display.
It contains a color indicator for indicating the status of the audit score in green, yellow and red. It
also has a trend graph which displays the respective audit score of each month.
The main purpose of P.V board is to display result of each department to all the employee, which
will create an impact on person working in the respective department that whether the process is
under controlled limit or need further improvements. The graphical display of audit score of each
month will indicate the gradual improvement in the process over time.
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Quality manager along with all the department heads are responsible for the process
improvement as well as keeping a regular check on whether the process is going as defined
standard. A proper hierarchy is followed in quality department for the successful completion of
the audit and taking necessary steps based on the result.
    Assigning a quality head in each department who will look after the audit processes in
       each department.
    Assigning an auditor from each department who will conduct audits on regular basis.
    The report generated from the audit will be reviewed by quality manager as well as plant
       head and results should be deduced from that.
    Assigning a person for corrective action from each department who will make corrective
       action plans against each process not followed every audit.
    Reviewing of corrective action plan by quality manager as well as respective department
       auditor.
    Training operators about the points which are not being followed.
    Checking improvements from previous audit in each audit.
    Auditors allotted to each department should report to the quality head for every audit
       without delay.
    Department head should be notified about the audit beforehand and after completion.
    Scoring should be done as per the formula and the result and percentage should be
       displayed on the audit booklet without fail.
    After every completion of audit signature of department head as well as auditor is
       mandatory.
    Audit will not be considered completed if the results are not displayed on the board.
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   The audit should be conducted twice every month on dates decided by the quality head.
   If the auditor is absent, then the responsibility of the quality head is to assign a substitute.
   Auditor list should be prepared beforehand, and auditors should be notified before the
     audit.
   No substitute should be initiated by auditor without the permission of the quality head.
   Quality head should discuss the performance of all the department with the plant head
     after every successful completion of the audit
AUDIT SCHEDULING:
   The audit should be conducted twice every month on dates decided by the quality head.
   If the auditor is absent, then the responsibility of the quality head is to assign a substitute.
   Auditor list should be prepared beforehand, and auditors should be notified before the
     audit.
   No substitute should be initiated by auditor without the permission of the quality head.
   Quality head should discuss the performance of all the department with the plant head
     after every successful completion of the audit.
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 PATTERN DEPARTMENT:
BEFORE AFTER
 FABRIC STORES:
             BEFORE                                                        AFTER
                      Figure 53 fabric stores before and after quality boards
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 TRIM STORES:
BEFORE
      BEFORE                                                            AFTER
                 Figure 55 Trim store before and after quality boards
 NEEDLE MANAGEMENT
BEFORE AFTER
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 CUTTING:
 TROUSER LINE
BEFORE AFTER
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CHECKLISTS
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Quality can mean different things to different groups within an organization. From a customer
perspective, quality means that the product they purchase is reliable and performs to their
satisfaction.   From   a   manufacturing     perspective,    quality   means     conformance   with
manufacturability specifications. While delivering high-quality products usually translates to
happy customers and increased profitability, the internal benefits of reduced scrap, rework, and
defects in the manufacturing process mean lower costs and faster time to market. Many
companies today subscribe to internal quality management programs, both for external and
internal gains. However, in this world of increasing competition, manufacturers must seek ways
to optimize their bottom line while managing the cost/quality trade-offs. The inspection process
within the supply chain plays a critical role in managing conformance of manufacturability and is
a process ripe for optimization. Automation of the inspection procedure may reduce compilation
efforts via central database, report making error via automatic report generation. There are many
instances when the quality inspection results may sit on the shelf without action being taken. A
real time approach which increases transparency through results sharing via mail may help
higher authorities to take quick action. A prototype was developed with the help of online app
developing platform AppSheet. The details about the functioning and implementation is further
explained.
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General Information section explains in general terms the app and the purpose for which it is
intended.
PV AUDITS is application, which allows collecting information about the internal inspection
carried out in the industry. The application provides electronic version of checklist used in
collecting the audit responses and storing the photo proof of the response along with the auditor’s
comments for the same. The application saves data collected to database on the google
spreadsheet. Its operational status is under development and the discussions have been made with
external developers for an inhouse app with same features. This app can be installed on any
android device and can be accessed through the pc on any web browser. Being password
protected only specified personnel could access the database or the app.
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System Summary section provides a general overview of the system. The summary outlines the
uses of the system’s hardware and software requirements, system’s configuration, user access
levels and system’s behavior in case of any contingencies.
AppSheet: PV AUDITS operates on mobile devices with Android operating system and pcs with
any major web browser. It is compatible with Android 4.4 and higher versions. The application
requires connection to Internet to save data to google database, internal photo camera for saving
the photo proof and a touch interface for saving the user signature. Data saved in database can be
seen using any major Internet browser. The editor of the app can be accessed on any pc with the
credentials. The whole function of the system on the mobile as well as the pc should be done
with the same credentials. After installation on the device, AppSheet: PV AUDITS can be used
immediately without any further configuration.
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Anyone with login id and password can use application, registered user is able to save data to
database. Editing of the app can be done through any pc with the credentials.
5.4.2.3 Contingencies
In case of no internet, data are not saved in internal memory of the operating device (except
photos that are stored in external storage folder of the device). A temporary storage is on the app,
but it should be synced before making any further changes. The sync button provided at the
bottom should be clicked after every successful action so that the same info is available on every
device which is accessing the data.
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Here a numeric value is seen beside sync button which shows number of changes made but not
synced.
Getting Started section explains how to get AppSheet: PV AUDITS and install it on the device.
The section presents briefly system menu.
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AppSheet: PV AUDITS is tabbed application, which consists of tabs for each participating
department. All tabs represent form for collecting the audit data. Every form has the option for
collecting photo against the response and the comments of the auditor. The last tab is the sync
button which should be pressed after every entry so that the information is saved on the database.
There is an edit button at every tab to edit the entries and an add button to add further new
entries.
After pressing the add button new entries could be made for that department. Each audit should
be given a Audit ID, Date of that particular audit should be entered and then the responses of
each questions should be filled in yes/no format. A photo for that response could be added if
required and then the comments if required. After dealing with all the questions further the
signature of the auditor and department head could be taken for authentication. Save button
should be pressed after completion. Pressing the sync button after the completion is necessary to
save the data into the database. The data will be saved into the database accordingly then the
photos can be extracted.
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There is a dropdown tab on the top left corner of the app which provides the option for logging
out of the app and thus closing the app. If the logging out action is made without syncing the data
then the data will be lost
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Edits on the app could be made according to the user’s requirement and all the different views
could be accessed also the design could be changed accordingly.
The user should have any major web browser (chrome, Firefox etc.). Open the website
https://www.appsheet.com/ where there is a login option in my account tab on the top right corner.
After which the user is prompted to the login page where he can login through the gmail id. The
next screen lists down the apps made by the user, an edit option is present below every user
created app.
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The options of views are present on the top menu of the screen where the user adds new view for
each department. Further the details button allows customization of the look of the form and the
form button allows editing the header or questions of the department.
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The user can open the data tab on the left side menu which open the column option on the top
menu which can be accessed to edit the questions and attributes of each column.
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For every action that is made on the editor a save button is present on the top right corner. Saving
the changes will save the changes on the database as well as any device that is connected.
After successful editing of the app, changes will automatically show on all the devices on which
the app is preinstalled. If the user intends to share the app with any new user, then he can use the
option of sharing at the top left which gives the user the option to enter the mail id to share the
link for installation of the app.
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Also, saving of bunches of paper will add up to the sustainability factor of the industry and help
to have a responsible outlook to the environment. The automation of process is easy as everyone
could save data which can be viewed by anyone at any time. A real time approach open options
for real time data sharing which could be used on the production floor for alteration details and
also planning of the next course of action. Search options could be used to access any data at any
point of time without any delay.
A central database could be a solution to communication between buyer and export houses where
the results of each audits could be sent directly to the buyer minutes after it is completed. It
would create a transparency within the two parties and all report generation could be done
automatically.
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This approach can be related to the output and the reason of poor performance could be easily
identified.
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5.6 CONCLUSION
During our course of internship, we tried to grasp the concepts of apparel manufacturing,
including cut to pack techniques. We also observed the process flow of various departments in
the largest export house of the company. We also noted the different quality aspects that are
checked throughout the production of apparels by the quality Auditors of the respective
departments.
We were exposed to the daily corporate life and had a thorough understanding of the working
environment and management system. All the staffs and employees in the unit were very friendly
and cooperative and strictly followed the company rules and regulations.
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PROJECT 3:
INNOVATION IN WAREHOUSE
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 SCANNING OF
 INCOMING GARMENTS
 PHYSICAL COUNTING OF
 INCOMING GARMENTS
IF OK
  STACKING OF THE
  SCANNED GAREMNTS
  GENERATION OF
  PACKING LIST
  PREPERATION OF OCR
  REPORT
GOH/BOX PACKING
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INTERNAL AUDIT
IF OK
 REPACKING OF
 AUDITED GOODS
 OFFER EXTERNAL
 AUDIT
IF OK
 REPACKING OF AUDITED
 GOODS
 PREPERATION OF
 CHECKLIST
PROBLEM STATEMENT-:
According to the existing process flow of warehouse the accountability and segregation of
incoming goods was manual, which consumed a lot of time and resulted in great confusion.
THOUGHT PROCESS-:
Ideas-:
1 Implementation of RFID
APPROVAL-:
Under the guidance of our process owner an Mentor we decided to follow the barcode system
because warehouse itself holds big portion in the garment industry, so implementation of the
RFID would not be cost effective to the industry.
COST ANALYSIS -:
 A barcode cost for 0.30 rupees for 1000 lot of tags to silver spark
Though rfid is way better than barcode in terms of trackability and accountability, but a slight
increase in the cost will decrease the profit percent of silver spark
WORKING PROCEDURE-:
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desktop -> scanning report -> month -> day wise scanning (excel file)
    everyday morning copies the previous day file and change the date
.
Delete the scan values from the excel sheet to start with the fresh scanning
    If you received any garment in new p.o., scan and create the dump for that
    purchase order in each size
po sheet -> options -> refresh all, to get the report po wise, size wise and line wise
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6.1.1 BARCODE
A barcode (also bar code) is an optical, machine-readable, representation of data; the data usually
describes something about the object that carries the barcode. Traditional barcodes
systematically represent data by varying the widths and spacings of parallel lines and may be
referred to as linear or one-dimensional (1D). Later, two-dimensional (2D) variants were
developed, using rectangles, dots, hexagons and other geometric patterns, called matrix codes or
2D barcodes, although they do not use bars as such. Initially, barcodes were only scanned by
special optical scanners called barcode readers. Later application software became available for
devices that could read images, such as smartphones with cameras.
Barcode was invented by Norman Joseph Woodland and Bernard Silver and patented in US in
1952 (US Patent 2,612,994). The invention was based on Morse code that was extended to thin
and thick bars. However, it took over twenty years before this invention became commercially
successful. An early use of one type of barcode in an industrial context was sponsored by the
Association of American Railroads in the late 1960s. Developed by General Telephone and
Electronics (GTE) and called KarTrak ACI (Automatic Car Identification), this scheme involved
placing coloured stripes in various combinations on steel plates which were affixed to the sides
of railroad rolling stock. Two plates were used per car, one on each side, with the arrangement of
the coloured stripes encoding information such as ownership, type of equipment, and
identification number. The plates were read by a trackside scanner, located for instance, at the
entrance to a classification yard, while the car was moving past. The project was abandoned after
about ten years because the system proved unreliable after long-term use.
Barcodes became commercially successful when they were used to automate supermarket
checkout systems, a task for which they have become almost universal. Their use has spread to
many other tasks that are generically referred to as automatic identification and data capture
(AIDC). The very first scanning of the now-ubiquitous Universal Product Code (UPC) barcode
was on a pack of Wrigley Company chewing gum in June 1974.] QR codes, a specific type of 2D
barcode, have recently become very popular.
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Other systems have made inroads in the AIDC market, but the simplicity, universality and low
cost of barcodes has limited the role of these other systems, particularly before technologies such
as radio-frequency identification (RFID) became available after 2000.
It would be no good having barcodes if we didn't have the technology to read them. Barcode
scanners must be able to read the black-and-white zebra lines on products extremely quickly and
feed that information to a computer or checkout terminal, which can identify them immediately
using a product database. Here's how they do it.
For the sake of this simple example, let's assume that barcodes are simple on-off, binary patterns
with each black line corresponding to a one and each white line a zero. (We've already seen that
real barcodes are more sophisticated than this, but let's keep things simple.)
   2. Light reflects back off barcode into a light-detecting electronic component called a
       Photoelectric Cell. White areas of the barcode reflect most light; black areas reflect least.
   3. As the scanner moves past the barcode, the cell generates a pattern of on-off pulses that
       correspond to the black and white stripes. So, for the code shown here ("black black
       black white black white black black"), the cell would be "off off off on off on off off."
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     4. An electronic circuit attached to the scanner converts these on-off pulses into binary
         digits (zeros and ones).
     5. The binary digits are sent to a computer attached to the scanner, which detects the code as
         11101011.
In some scanners, there's a single photoelectric cell and, as you move the scanner head past the
product (or the product past the scanner head), the cell detects each part of the black-white
barcode in turn. In more sophisticated scanners, there's a whole line of photoelectric cells and the
entire code is detected in one go.
Scanners don't detect zeros and ones and produce binary numbers as their output: they detect
sequences of black and white stripes, as we've shown here, but convert them directly into
decimal numbers, giving a decimal number as their output.
First, we defined all the racks for running and fixed buyers, e.g. We allocated 3 racks for Konaka
A, B, C.
Every rack has 6 rods and every rod has a capacity of 400 pcs i.e. capacity of 6 racks is 2400 pcs.
Racks No of Pcs
1 400pcs
6 2400pcs
We created a dump file for reference that contained details about a merchandise of a particular
buyer. Reference picture of the sample dump worksheet. In fig (3.1.3.1).
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Then we created a sample worksheet for scan that was synced to the sample scan worksheet.
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Then for accountability of the incoming merchandise we created a po wise scan sheet (Fig 73)
that basically counted the total incoming garments and it worked on the basic command of pivot
table.
VLOOKUP is the basic command that creates a relation between dump and scan sheet.
VLOOKUP basically extracts the relatable value in that particular defined area. we must define a
particular on which this command works.
VLOOKUP function. ... In its simplest form, the VLOOKUP function says: =VLOOKUP (Value
you want to look up, range where you want to look up the value, the column number in the range
containing the return value, Exact Match or Approximate Match – indicated as 0/FALSE or
1/TRUE).
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Every merchandise doesn’t have a unique id, id is allotted to a size group in purchase order. once
we track the shipment details, we get to know that when a rack would be vacated. This helps in
allocation of the next Purchase order that comes into warehouse.
Example-:
 It has 5 purchase orders into that, so we the allocation is done as per the vacancy available.
      Now when the shipment is completed the vacant racks are available for the upcoming
       Purchase order.
 The allocation is done in the dump file for the upcoming lot.
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We completed our barcoding and automatic rack allocation with the help of excel after that we
called up a warehouse automation vendor, AUTOEDGE(BANGALORE).
This automation plan helped us to stack the garment automatically without carrying the garment
with the help of production trolley to the defined race. Its works with the help of a simple
conveyer the speed can be made variable as per the owner choice. As show in Fig (3.1.4.1).
Auto edge Advanced Automation Technologies Pvt Ltd is a premier Automation Engineering
company having over a decade experience in providing turnkey solutions for industrial
automation requirements. We are wholly owned subsidiary of M/s. SAI Projects & Systems Pvt
Ltd, and are involved in design, manufacture and implementation of complete automation
systems like
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assembly lines, packaging lines, process lines, work cells etc. for Automotive, Pharmaceuticals,
FMCG, Food, White good and general industry.
Address-:
Address: Amar Plaza, No 19, 1st Floor Krishnanagar Industrial Area, Hosur Road, Bengaluru,
Karnataka 560029.
We have large pool of experienced Engineers with vast experience in Automation system design,
project management, manufacturing and implementation. Entire team is managed by experienced
Management team of 7 members with each from different professional back ground like
Mechanical design, Controls & Instrumentation design, Software development, Production &
planning, Installation and Commissioning, after sales & Service and Finance.
We specialize in system design by integrating with various standard components like PLCs,
ROBOTS, Servomotors, Pneumatics, Hydraulics, Sensors, and others third party equipment. We
bring intelligence to the systems and solutions by connecting all the machines to management
with SCADA, MES and other API software development and integration.
All our Engineers are well trained to manage Engineering challenges. We have complete design
and development software tools like Solidworks, AutoCAD, FlexSIM, and EPlan to build
complete system in CAD before release for manufacturing along with hands on experience in
using all the reputed PLCs available in the market like Rockwell Automation, Mitsubishi,
Siemens, Omron, Toyopuc, etc.
 India SME Top 100 Award among 42000 nominations by India SME Fourm
 Nominated for top 5 in SME category from Bangalore by CNBC TV18 & ICICI Emerging
India Awards
6.3 PROJECT 2 -:
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Problem statement-
As mentioned in a row we can stack 2400 garments, so it is not easy to segregate Purchase order
and sizes between them.
Thus sorting would make our work easy, for sorting and segregation we planned to use colored
segregation flags, basically we tried to implement 5’s in ware house.
5’s-:
We installed yellow flags for segregation between two purchase orders and red flags within the
purchase orders between different sizes.
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TIME STUDY -:(total time in taking out 42s from a purchase order)
Case 1-:
Size Time
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Case 2-:
Size Time
Functions used-:
VLOOKUP- VLOOKUP is an Excel function to lookup and retrieve data from a specific column
in table. VLOOKUP supports approximate and exact matching, and wildcards for partial
matches. The "V" stands for "vertical". Lookup values must appear in the first column of the
table, with lookup columns to the right.
PIVOT TABLE-Pivot Tables are one of the most powerful and useful tools in Excel. They will
save you a lot of time by allowing you to quickly summarize large amounts of data into a
meaningful report. Understanding exactly how a pivot table works will really help you unleash
the full potential of this amazing tool.
In pivot table in values we used count of scan for counting the total of the scanned garments.
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SAMPLE 1-:
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SAMPLE 2-:
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SAMPLE 3-:
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6.4 CONCLUSION
The report and analysis are made on current position and performance of the plant. The plant is
excellent in terms of management, automation and equipment. I completed my 3 months Apparel
internship here with a great learning and built a strong base for my future.
My project title Innovation in Warehouse basically concludes the implementation of 5’s, Kaizen
and automation in warehouse.
We implemented a system that automatically decides a rack for a purchase order without any
confusion. With the help of this system we also saved time for fetching the garment for a
purchase order. We also submitted a design draft for automatic racking system.
In our second project we made colored segregation flags for segregating the purchase orders and
for segregating the sizes within the purchase order.
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7.0 CONCLUSION
The industry internship to SILVER SPARK APPAREL LIMITED, DODDABALLAPUR,
Bangalore, proved to be a fruitful experience. The three months exposure to the organization was
a good learning curve in our career. It helped us to learn the practical manufacturing and
processing techniques in garments right from the fabric stage to the finished and packed garment
stage.
During our course of internship, we tried to grasp the concepts of apparel manufacturing,
including cut to pack techniques. We also observed the process flow of various departments in
the largest export house of the company. We also noted the different quality aspects that are
checked throughout the production of apparels by the quality Auditors of the respective
departments.
We were exposed to the daily corporate life and had a thorough understanding of the working
environment and management system. All the staffs and employees in the unit were very friendly
and cooperative and strictly followed the company rules and regulations.
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          APPAREL INTERNSHIP AT SSAL-2018
ANNEXURES
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