Reprinted from 5.p.e.

Year Book 1969

W HERE
HE importance, among other
ARE WE G 0 IN G
".

matter. I confine myself to submitting

T things, of the organisation you

wi5h to 5et up:> is that it would
at last fill the gap left by the dis­
asks EDMOND ROUDNITSKA this reflection to those more qualified
to consider it.

appearance of the work sections which MATERIALS AND

discussing some of the
we attended during the 'forties within THEIR SUPPLY
problems currently facing
the Groupement Technigue de la From a practical point of view,
perfu mers and the
Parfumerie. however, where are we going at the
Re5earch workers of all kinds, both
perfumery industry * start of this last third of the century?
in this country and in countries where Chemical synthesis continues its
gimi1!lf bodieg might be created, would progress in a particularly d~22ling
thus have a permanent meeting quency, whence the sequence: \vay. The elaboration of substances
ground. I have in mind in particular Particles of matter have mass. to which great importance attaches
the 6cienti6t6 concerned with the Mass is a form of energy. continues at accelerated pace; the
theory of odour, who might thus be Energy implies frequency. development is more difficult to follow
!lble to continue their efforts more Frequency implies vibrations. since the cost prices are sonletimes
easily. The result of this is that the par­ high. A great effort should be made
This theory of odour, while it may ticles are endowed with vibra­ by organic chemists to improve their
not solve all our problems:> will enable tions. processes and the cost of their syn­
us to tackle some very important Particles endowed with vibrations theses, if they wish to bring them
problems that are to-day out of reach. resemble photons. within our reach and not confine
For instance, as regards the definition Photons bear a relationship to light themselves to theoretical research.
of the attributes of an odour and the waves. The producers of jasmin who have
corresponding units of measurement. Therefore, matter should have a just gone through quite a foreseeable
Given that as a basis, one could begin relationship with the "waves of crisis, after excesses that \ve have
to treat the subject rationally. matter". always denounced, have received the
Many precious years have been Einstein has ShO\\7n that light, which just need of their weakness in
wasted, during which scientists have \vas for a long time conceived as a following the bad shepherds.
taken little interest in this research. \vave, resembled a particle. Brog­ The return to normal should restore
Those who might have been qualified lie went full circle by suggesting some sanity to the situation and if, as
to conduct it satisfactorily have dis­ that matter, for a long time \ve have urged, prices are stabilised at
appeared. The sense of smell was considered as made of particles, a reasonable level for several )'ears,
regarded as a secondary sense, just as must be accon1panied by waves perfumers will again be encouraged
if anything concerned with life could and therefore partake some\vhat to make wider use of jasmin in their
be secondary, and as if one discovery of their nature. Einstein ap­ formulae. It will then become poss­
did not lead to a series of others. proved. ible to conclude between perfumers
Is it absurd to imagine something and producers contr~cts covering 3, 4
THEORY OF ODOUR similar for odour? Even if or 5 years and to enSl;re price st~bility
One of your t!lsks should be to odour consists of particles of to the former and gLlar~nteed m!lrkets
~timul!lte energy !lnd worry the matter, may it not be thought to the latter.
re~e!lrcher~J chemi~t~ !lnd 9-bove 9-11 that this particle can display There is not, and never has been] an
physicists until the theory of odour is behaviour similar to that of pho­ over-production of jasmin, but there
fin~l1y el~bor~ted. tons and give rise to vibrations ? has been an under-consumpdon as ~
~hese questions ~re unfortun9-tely If it has been possible for radiation resul t of prohibitive prices. There·
outside my sphere of competence, and to be transformed into matter, accord­ have also been bad j~smins. May
it Is therefore only timidly that I place ing to Einstein's law of the equival­ those who have embarked on fresh
before you some reflections of mine ence of n1ass and energy, it seems more plantations continue unrufRed; if the
on cert~in work by Louis de Broglie plausible for matter to be transformed price remains reasonable ~nd the
and the quantum theory. into radiation. Odour could be an quality as it should be, jasmin will sell
I recapitulate: aspect of a transfer of energy from well and its use will develop.
It occurred to Louis de Broglie to Some producers are boldly deciding
allot a mass to the photon. The * This paper is an English translation of to follow our advice on growing and
idea ha5 been debated. 'IOU Allons-Nolls)", presented by the treatment. The results obtained are
Light contains photons, it is ~ w~ve, author at the first scientific and technical so convincing that those who have
meeting of the Academie d'Osmologie et de
!lnd they must therefore co-exist. Dermologie, at the Maison de la Chimie, not lent themselves to the same dis­
Light 9-nd m9-tter 9-re forms of Paris, November 1967. For permission to ciplines will be outdistanced in c~n­
publish we are indebted to the author and
energy. According to Pl9-nck, to the directors of the Academy. Reprinted
vassing a market which is more and
energy equals h times the fre­ from S.P.C., August 1968. more open to competition.
 The improvement thus obtained in Furthermore, aesthetics must be given who succeeds is not likely to be one
quality will allow and justify transfers the place which it deserves in modern who has had ide~s instilled into him by
(carry-overs) of harvests from year to education. Education in all its others, or even one who, in search of
year, which transfers must be kept in dOlnains-aesthetics in particular­ profit, has sensed where the wind is
cold JtOf&, stainl&s.> packing.>, under nitro­ should be the major care of those coming from. It will be he who, with­
gen. An intelligent inventory of world responsible for training people. out looking over his shoulder, us
needs would enable producers to I t is said that \ve are moving McLuhan says, has a really personal
allow a certain harvest surplus which, towards an audio-visual civilisation. idea, will maintain it until some
if properly stored~ would act as a It is more likely that we are moving work is completed, and will remain
regulating reserve and would further towards a sensorial civilisation in which himself proof against wind and
promote price stability. Stabilisation perfume should be able to playa large tide.
of this kind has in fact taken place this part. Perhaps films and lectures will r do not think it is the creutive
year with Rose Maroc (Moroccan be accon1panied by olfactory demon­ capacity that is lacking, or the capaCity
Rose), which in spite of reduced strations. Will it one day be feasible, for understanding on the part of the
production has been able to maintain as has been done for images, to trans­ public (which ren1ains what it has
its price, thanks to the surplus from mit odours through space? This always been). What is in process of
l~H~t year. would be the ideal solution for petering out is the capacity for starting
All these efforts take the form of a perfuming sho\vs and spectacles, the something. It is really re.rpon.ribIe
new contribution of outstanding pro­ odours ceasing to be perceived as people who are lacking, and it seems
ducts;> whose influence will make soon as transmission has ceased. that to-day there is 110 man capable of
itself doubly felt: first of all by In antiquity, perfumes impregnated launching a Chanel NO.5. Here is
sharpening the sense of smell and the everything. In a few years we may the problem of perfumery, a problem
minds of the creators, to whom finer witness the same frenzy. There is of giving orders, a problem of
models are offered; next, by enriching therefore no occasion for anxiety in authority. Above all else, this is the
their palette and opening up horizons connection with the perfumery indus­ problem that must be tackled, and the
that had hitherto been closed. try as such or for worrying over the rest will follow. However, authority
future of the "odour merchants". is nothing without competence, and
PERFUME QUALITY However, perfuJJje itself is threatened; in a profession such as ours compet­
AND THE FUTURE it is more than threatened, it is ence is not acquired overnight.
Generally speaking, how will the attacked. Thus, instead of asking I therefore do not see any in1me­
next few decades shape themselves? \vhether perfumery is still an art, it diate way out. It is urgently indis­
With the scientific and technical would be better to give it every pensable for an anin1ator, such as
revolution, which confirms the right chance of showing that it can still be Coty was in his day, to come forward,
of all to live in contact with beauty, it one. The cinema, which was regarded stand out, and be listened to. }-I is
is to be expected that the public will as an industry, has changed to become task will be the more difficult, since
display an increasing appetite for an art. Television is moving in the he will not be on virgin soil; he will
beautiful things, which will end by same direction. have to eliminate a considerable
extending to all products on the When our friend Billot wished for number of parasites which occur in
market. In collective civilisation, in perfumery "a place where perfumes different forms. He will require much
\v hich we are already involved, can be made for their own sake, clarity of mind, much courage, energy
happines6 implies aesthetic compen­ without any other consideration", he and self-sacrifice. A kind of white
sations. knew that there is at least one such blackbird! Who will discover him
However, there is a risk of aesthe­ place, whence scarcely one perfume and persuade him to pick up a torch
tiC9 l09ing in quality what it will gain emerges every ten years, and where which has been dropped for so many
in qU!lntity. 'To a certain extent, the only what is thought right is done, years? For, through some kind of
high price of quality, by sustaining without any commercialism. This fatality, transfers take place with
the religion of the beautiful among an method of approach nevertheless difficulty from generation to genera­
elite of fastidious connoisseurs, op­ proves very remunerative, since the tion in our profession. This i~ not
poses !l b!lrrier to b!ld t~ste, while well-known House which applies it is anIy true of perfumery in its final
popularisation, by exceeding its aims, thriving, and its use of this method or state, but also of the raw materials
sometimes leads to vulgarity. Never­ formula is often quoted as an example industry. The number of ubundoned
theless, the beautiful is not necessarily of good management. Those who items is on the increase.
expensive and yields a large return, are onlY concerned with profit should Whereas in the motor car industry"
simply because it is generally the sign meditate on this modest example. for instance, in spite of the disappear­
of succe56. ance of the Citroen and the Renuult,
It is because the beautiful is one of THE ROOTS OF and in spite of pitiless competition,
France's traditional exports that \ve INNOVATION those makes are more prosperous than
must have the courage to eliminate In 1962, I did not allow ten years ever. In the case of Peugeot, quality
the merchants of what is n1ediocre. for the new wave to become brilliantly has never been raised to so high a
What is more, Foundations should be manifest, and I still hope that it will degree. In those large firms, the reins
encouraged by tax exemptions. not give me the lie. However, he have most felicitously been pl~ced in
the hands of capable and conscientious .. Art et Parfu m"-centre of the author's work at
Cabris, A.-M., some 2. I00 ft. above sea level
managers \\Tho are capable not only
of maintaining the reputation of
their makes, but, enhancing them still useful, like a cream, but to please. of an aesthetic order. Experience
further. In these two activities the design of shows that true innovation in this
\Vhy is not this the case in our the products is quite different, just as domain is arduous and often a burden
industry? Doubtless because per­ the reasons for purchase are different. because it is laborious, and its
fumery is essentially based on taste, I t is not possible to manage these two acceptance by the public needs a
and that to be successful other quali­ industries \vith the same n1entality, period of adaptation, sometimes even
tIeB are needed than those of skilled with the same methods, with the same after a period of rej ection.
engineers and clever businessmen. It men. If this is not realised, the These factors curb the rhythm of
h: high time th9-t those financially splendid perfumery industry will be bringing out perfumes. It is not
responsible should t9-ke note and learn finally conden1ned and this will be possible to accelerate this rhythm
the urt of discovering and then using the death of the goose that laid the without falling into the slough ot
the uV9-i1able skills (which implies golden eggs, \vhose sole desire is to contingencies and tiring the public 7B
that they must alter their criteria in the lay them. patience by repeated failures. This is
recruitmen t of top stafI}. if they do not what happens.
wish to see the gradual crumbling of NOT MADE Jacques Maisonrouge says that
what has been the apanage of our TO ORDER "a product is arrived at in two ways.
country. It is said that innovation IS the On the one hand the discoveries made
In cosmetics, which is a tech­ modern form of competition. If this in the d01l1ain of technologY7 \vhich
nologist's industry based on science, formula is true for the products of make it possible to carry out cert9-in
it is possible to succeed with technical industry, we must be careful not to functions; and on the other the needs
st9-ff, by 9-pplying business methods. apply it blindly to perfumery. expressed by a certain market, showing
Perfume, however, is not just based on A perfume is not a practical 0 bj ect, that it must be possible to solve such
technique; it aims at expressing it is a work which, not being merely and such a problem or meet such and
be9-uty. Its 9-mbition is not to be subject to reason, has required research such a need on the part of customers.
This synthesis that is necessary be­ scale production. Such success, if difference between creative perfumery
tween the market demand and the well exploited, can even end in mass and industrial perfumery. The former
possibility of technological achieve­ production. represents an innovation, while the
ments is one of the salient points of Cases are known in which market second seldom does so. Heads of
modern industry. It seems (he adds) research services have rejected high­ firms, who do not understand this and
that quite often in Europe, in the grade products which, taking their think that by increasing the attempts
t'tesence of new technological ideas, chance elsewhere, have later suc­ they automatically increase their
commercial services are quickly con­ ceeded. They have also granted their chances, are acting against their
sulted which, not having very power­ favours to notoriously worthless interests and do wrong to the whole
ful market research services, reiect or objects, which the referendum had not profession.
accept the product according to the set on one side and which constituted
intuition of the departmental as many setbacks. In the present WITHOUT PREJUDICE
manager.';> circumstances, it is not possible to I t may be the role of this academy
The conflict with us is born of the use scientific foresight in the realm of to provide those responsible for
confusion between these two roads. aesthetics. perfumery with information devoid of
"Mass" perfumery might attempt to In order to be able to create a really all prejudice and to present it with
take the second road (provided that new perfume, we must not be stam­ courage and mature reflection. It
the market is capable of expressing its peded either by time or by men. could constitute a medium in which
needs), but "high grade perfumery" This is not done to order. It sometimes free opinions would be freely
owes it to itself to take the first road. takes years just to collect the necessary expressed and debated. It would thus
And when quality products are really materials. The time must also be become a living and fruitful centre,
concerned, this first road leads to allowed for many repentances! not confined or limited to merely
world success and finally to large- I t is all these aspects that show the academic debates.

Concerning the Author

"In 1926, at the age of 21, Edmond-Fernand Roudnitska entered perfumery quite by chance.
He started in Grasse, the perfume city, and then obtained employment with de Laire. where
he remained a certain number of years.
"Until 1949 he remained at Paris making bases, composing perfumes, and showing himself
to be a talented perfu mer.
"As in the case of many other perfumers, it is impossible to speak of his outstanding or
sensationa.l creations without raising violent reactions on the part of those using them.
"In 1946 Roudnitska became his own master by establishing 'Art et Parfum', installed at
Cabris. There he composes perfumes. He sells to users the compounded oils of his own
creation. These customers are commercial organisations, perfumers or dress designers who
make up his products in solution, look after packaging, or approach manufacturing works or
packagers themselves, organising publicity and then sales.
"It will be appreciated that, in these circumstances, it is impossible to enumerate Roudnitska's
achievements.
"Independently of his actual creations, Roudnitska has an active interest in the Ste. Technique
des Parfumeurs de France. He has very often taken part in discussions, when that society
was known as the Groupement Technique de la Parfumerie, always safeguarding the interests
of our profession and helping to reveal its true artistic character.
"He published, in the journal Parfumerie, in 1944, a very interesting paper on the percept­
ibility of odours. Prior to this, in the Revue des Marques (now defunct) he had written some
highly interesting technical articles.
itA few years ago he suggested an original and interesting solution for stabilising the jasmin
market, but unfortunately nothing came of this.
"Roudnitska is a truly creative perfumer in the fullest meaning of the word."-Marcel Billot.
itA Short History of the Great Perfumers," Soap, pp.rfumery & Cosmetics, June 1962.

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