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WO2022021341A1 - Composition pour le soin des matières kératiniques comprenant un extrait de ferment de sphingomonas - Google Patents

Composition pour le soin des matières kératiniques comprenant un extrait de ferment de sphingomonas Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022021341A1
WO2022021341A1 PCT/CN2020/106248 CN2020106248W WO2022021341A1 WO 2022021341 A1 WO2022021341 A1 WO 2022021341A1 CN 2020106248 W CN2020106248 W CN 2020106248W WO 2022021341 A1 WO2022021341 A1 WO 2022021341A1
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Prior art keywords
composition
weight
oil
group
volatile
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PCT/CN2020/106248
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English (en)
Inventor
Hongling Xu
Ruijun Chen
Yangdong CHEN
Zhiming Zhang
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to PCT/CN2020/106248 priority Critical patent/WO2022021341A1/fr
Priority to KR1020227041759A priority patent/KR20230074062A/ko
Priority to JP2022580965A priority patent/JP7644152B2/ja
Priority to CN202080104523.4A priority patent/CN116096349A/zh
Priority to FR2009894A priority patent/FR3112948B1/fr
Publication of WO2022021341A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022021341A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/99—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from microorganisms other than algae or fungi, e.g. protozoa or bacteria
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/85—Products or compounds obtained by fermentation, e.g. yoghurt, beer, wine

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition in the form of pre-essence for caring for the keratin materials, in particular the skin. It relates more particularly to a composition comprising Sphingomonas ferment extract. It also relates to the use, namely cosmetic use, of a composition comprising Sphingomonas ferment extract, for reinforcing the repair and regeneration capacity of the keratin materials, in particular the skin.
  • the present invention further relates to a non-therapeutic method, comprising at least the administration, to an individual subject to skin aging, of at least the said composition.
  • the present invention aims to provide a composition for preventing and/or treating skin aging, with a desired translucent texture and appearance, in particular, essence aspect.
  • the epidermis is an epithelium, conventionally divided up into a basal layer of keratinocytes containing, in particular, skin stem cells and constituting the germinative layer of the epidermis, a "spiny” layer constituted of several layers of polyhedral cells placed on the basal layer, a "granular” layer comprising one to three layers said to be of flattened cells containing distinct cytoplasmic inclusions, keratohyalin granules, and finally, a set of upper layers, called horny layer (or stratum corneum) constituted of keratinocytes at the terminal stage of their differentiation, called corneocytes.
  • horny layer or stratum corneum
  • the stratum corneum is the superficial layer of the epidermis located at the interface between the organism and its environment. It is composed of corneocytes, which are anucleate cells resulting from the differentiation of epidermal keratinocytes. The corneocytes are rich in keratins and are surrounded by an impermeable lipid matrix. By virtue of its protein and lipid composition, the stratum corneum plays an essential skin barrier role. It prevents the intrusion of microbiological agents and makes it possible to preserve the hydration of the skin and therefore of the body in general.
  • the homeostasis of the skin results from a finely regulated balance between the processes of proliferation and differentiation of the cells of the skin.
  • These proliferation and differentiation processes are perfectly regulated: they participate in the renewal and/or regeneration of the skin and lead to the maintenance of a constant skin thickness, and in particular a constant epidermal thickness.
  • This homeostasis of the skin is also involved in maintaining the mechanical properties of the skin.
  • this homeostasis of the skin can be impaired by certain physiological factors (age, menopause, hormones, etc. ) or environmental factors (UV stress, pollution, oxidative stress, irritant stress, etc. ) .
  • the regenerative potential of the epidermis becomes less great: the cells of the basal layer divide less actively, which leads in particular to a slowing down and/or a decrease in epidermal renewal. Consequently, cell renewal no longer compensates for the loss of the cells removed at the surface, leading to atrophy of the epidermis and/or to a decrease in the thickness of the skin and/or a loss of elasticity and/or of firmness of the skin.
  • the alterations in epidermal homeostasis are also reflected by a dull and/or poorly defined appearance to the complexion of the skin.
  • This phenomenon may be accentuated by the menopause: women complain of their skin tightening and becoming dry, or even of the appearance of xerosis.
  • the hormonal deficits associated with the menopause are accompanied in particular by a drop in metabolic activity, which could result in a decrease in the proliferation of the keratinocytes and an increase in epidermal differentiation.
  • compositions capable of promoting the homeostasis of the skin in order to maintain and/or increase the thickness of the skin and thus to maintain and/or improve the mechanical properties of the skin and/or promote the radiance of the complexion.
  • bio-based active ingredients are known for treating the skin-aging, phytosphingosine salicylate derivatives, lysate of microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species, or ferment extracts obtained from adaptogen bacteria, such as Sphingomonas hydrophobicum.
  • the ferment obtained from Sphingomonas hydrophobicum is known to contain glycosphingolipids (GSLs) such as seramide, dihydrosphingosine, and glucuronic acid, and is popular for its reduction of lipid peroxidation and functioning of the key biomarkers of senescence, thus preventing the skin aging.
  • GSLs glycosphingolipids
  • the inventors found that when formulating together with other anti-aging actives, such as lysate of microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species, the combination significantly promoted nidogen expression, indicating the anti-ageing potential of the combination.
  • composition for caring for keratin materials comprising:
  • the present invention also relates to a process for caring for the keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the present invention.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the present invention for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin.
  • the present invention relates to the use of the composition according to the present invention for treating the skin ageing.
  • keratin materials we intend to mean human keratin materials and more specifically the skin.
  • the viscosity of a composition of the invention may be measured via any process known to those skilled in the art, and especially according to the following conventional process.
  • the measurement can be carried out at 25°C using a Rheomat 180 viscometer equipped with a spindle rotating at 200 rpm.
  • Those skilled in the art may select the spindle for measuring the viscosity from the spindles M1, M2, M3 and M4 on the basis of their general knowledge, so as to be able to perform the measurement.
  • translucent appearance we intended to mean the turbidity of the composition of the present invention is between 400 to 8000 NTU (Nephelometric Turbidity Units) at 25°C.
  • the turbidity of the composition of the present invention ranges between 800 NTU to 7500 NTU, more preferably from 1000 NTU to 7500 NTU, at 25°C.
  • the turbidity of the compositions of the present invention is measured using a 2100P Turbidimeter machine from the company Hach under 25°C.
  • a composition in accordance with the present invention comprises at least one oil, chosen from silicone oils, hydrocarbon-based oils, or a mixture thereof.
  • the oil can be volatile or non-volatile.
  • volatile means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg) , preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.1 to 10 mmHg) .
  • non-volatile means an oil whose vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) .
  • silicon oil is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O group.
  • the non-volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may be chosen especially from silicone oils especially with a viscosity at 25°C of greater than or equal to 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x 10 -6 m 2 /s) and preferably less than 800 000 cSt, preferably between 50 and 600 000 cSt and preferably between 100 and 500 000 cSt.
  • the viscosity of this silicone oil may be measured according to standard ASTM D-445.
  • silicone oils two types of oil may be distinguished, according to whether or not they contain phenyl.
  • phenylated silicone oil or “phenyl silicone oil” means a silicone oil having at least one phenyl substituent.
  • the phenyl silicone oil can be chosen among those having at least a dimethicone, or those having no dimethicone part.
  • the dimethicone part corresponds to the formula: -Si (CH 3 ) -O-.
  • non-volatile phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from:
  • the groups R represent, monovalent or divalent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl.
  • the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six.
  • groups R represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl.
  • the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl-, tetraphenyl-or pentaphenyl-organopolysiloxanes.
  • a preferred embodiment is made in particular to a phenyl silicone oil without a dimethicone part and correspond to the formula (II) wherein at least 4 or at least 5 of the group R represent phenyl, and the remaining R groups represent methyl.
  • Such phenyl silicone oils are preferably trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, or tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane.
  • Such oils are especially manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1, 3, 5-trimethyl-1, 1, 3, 5, 5-pentaphenyl trisiloxane; INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane) , or tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane sold under the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning may also be used.
  • silicone oils correspond to the formulas (III) , or (III’) :
  • Me represents methyl
  • y is between 1 and 1,000 and X represents-CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) (Ph) .
  • R 1 to R 10 independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 30 hydrocarbon-based radicals,
  • n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, with the proviso that the sum m+n+q is other than 0.
  • the sum m+n+q is between 1 and 100.
  • the sum m+n+p+q is between 1 and 900 and better still between 1 and 800.
  • q is equal to 0.
  • R 1 to R 10 independently of each other, represent a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 1 -C 30 , preferably C 1 -C 20 , in particular C 1 -C 16 , hydrocarbon radical, preferably saturated, or a monocyclic or polycyclic C 6 -C 14 and especially C 10 -C 13 aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical.
  • R 1 to R 10 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
  • R 1 to R 10 may especially be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.
  • the present invention of the formula (V) can be:
  • R 1 to R 6 independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably R 1 to R 6 are a C 1 -C 30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical or an aralkyl radical, more preferably a C 6 -C 14 aryl radical, or a C 1 -C 3 alkyl radical or aralkyl radical;
  • n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.
  • R 1 to R 6 independently of each other, represent a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 1 -C 30 , hydrocarbon radical, preferably saturated, and especially C 1 -C 20 , or C 1 -C 16 hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular C 3 -C 16 and more particularly C 4 -C 10 , or a monocyclic or polycyclic C 6 -C 14 and especially C 10 -C 13 aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical.
  • hydrocarbon radical preferably saturated, and especially C 1 -C 20 , or C 1 -C 16 hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular C 3 -C 16 and more particularly C 4 -C 10 , or a monocyclic or polycyclic C 6 -C 14 and especially C 10 -C 13 aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical.
  • R 1 to R 6 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
  • R 1 to R 6 may especially be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.
  • m 1 or 2 or 3
  • the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil of the present invention is chosen from the phenyl silicone oils having at least a dimethicone part.
  • the said oil corresponds to the formula (VI) , wherein:
  • n and p independently of each other, are integers between 1 and 100.
  • R 1 to R 6 are methyl group.
  • silicone oils are, for example, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones (such as KF-54 from Shin Etsu (400 cSt) , KF54HV from Shin Etsu (5000 cSt) , KF-50-300CS from Shin Etsu (300 cSt) , KF-53 from Shin Etsu (175cSt) , KF-50-100CS from Shin Etsu (100 cSt) .
  • phenyl dimethicones such as KF-54 from Shin Etsu (400 cSt) , KF54HV from Shin Etsu (5000 cSt) , KF-50-300CS from Shin Etsu (300 cSt) , KF-53 from Shin Etsu (175cSt) , KF-50-100CS from Shin Etsu (100 cSt) .
  • Such phenyl silicone oils with or without at least one dimethicone part correspond in particular to the formula (VII)
  • non-volatile phenyl silicone oil having at least one dimethicone part p ranges between 1 and 1000, m is in particular such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil.
  • Use may be made, for example, of trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, sold especially under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 sold by the company Wacker.
  • p is equal to 0
  • m ranges between 1 and 1000, and in particular, is such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil.
  • Use may be made, for example, of phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane, sold especially under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556) .
  • R independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably R is a C 1 -C 30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical or an aralkyl radical, more preferably R is a C 6 -C 14 aryl radical, or a aralkyl radical with the C 1 -C 3 alkyl group.
  • n are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.
  • R independently of each other, represent a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 1 -C 30 hydrocarbon-based radical, preferably saturated, and especially C 1 -C 12 hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular C 3 -C 16 and more particularly C 4 -C 10 , or a monocyclic or polycyclic C 6 -C 14 and especially C 10 -C 13 aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical.
  • R may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
  • R may especially be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.
  • n is an integer between 0 and 100 and m is an integer between 1 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100, in formula (VIII) .
  • R is methyl radical.
  • n is an integer ranging between 0 and 100
  • m is an integer ranging between 1 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m ranges between 1 and 100, in the formula (VIII) .
  • R is a methyl radical.
  • a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) with a viscosity at 25°C of between 5 and 1500 mm 2 /s (i.e. 5 to 1500 cSt) , and preferably with a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm 2 /s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt) may be used.
  • the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is preferably chosen from phenyl trimethicones; such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt, the oil diphenylsiloxy phenyltrimethicone such as KF-56 A from Shin Etsu, the oil Silbione 70663V30 from (28 cSt) .
  • phenyl trimethicones such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt, the oil diphenylsiloxy phenyltrimethicone such as KF-56 A from Shin Etsu, the oil Silbione 70663V30 from (28 cSt) .
  • the values in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25°C.
  • R1, R2, R5 and R6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms
  • R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical, with the proviso that at least one from R3 and R4 is a phenyl radical,
  • X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical,
  • n and p being integer superior or equal to 1, chosen so as to give the oil a weight-average molecular mass of less than 200 000 g/mol, preferably less than 150 000 g/mol and more preferably less than 100 000 g/mol.
  • silicone oils such as:
  • non-volatile phenyl silicone oil preferably chosen from: Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane (such as as PH-1554 HRI or Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid from Dow Corning) , trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone (for instance Belsil PDM 1000 from the company Wacker (cf.
  • phenyl trimethicones such as the phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning
  • phenyl dimethicones such as the phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning
  • phenyl dimethicones such as the phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning
  • diphenyl dimethicones such as KF-54 from Shin Etsu (400 cSt) , KF54HV from Shin Etsu (5000 cSt)
  • KF-50-300CS from Shin Etsu (300 cSt)
  • KF-53 from Shin Etsu (175cSt)
  • KF-50-100CS from Shin Etsu (100 cSt)
  • diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethylpentaphenyl trisilox
  • PDMS non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes
  • polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, and
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise a non-volatile non phenyl silicone oil.
  • non-volatile non phenyl silicone oil or “non phenylated non-volatile silicone oil” are equivalent and both means a silicon oil having no phenyl substituent.
  • non-volatile non phenyl silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones; vinyl methyl methicones; and also silicones modified with optionally fluorinated aliphatic groups, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.
  • the non-volatile non phenyl silicon oil is preferably chosen from dimethicone oils, preferably chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones.
  • “Dimethicone” corresponds to polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name) .
  • Non-volatile non phenyl silicone oils can be chosen from:
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • poly dimethylsiloxane with a viscosity of 100 CST sold under the trade name Dowsil SH200 Fluid (100 cSt) by Dow Corning, or Belsil DM 100 sold by the company Wacker.
  • alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, such as cetyldimethicone sold under the commercial reference ABIL WAX 9801 from Evonik Goldschmidt,
  • - PDMSs comprising aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,
  • polyalkylmethylsiloxanes such as cetyldimethicone sold under the commercial reference ABIL WAX 9801 from Evonik Goldschmidt, or polyalkylmethylsiloxane optionally substituted with a fluorinated group, such as polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxanes,
  • non-volatile non phenyl linear silicone oils may be chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones; vinyl methyl methicones; and also silicones modified with optionally fluorinated aliphatic groups, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.
  • the non-volatile non phenyl linear silicone oil may be chosen especially from the silicones of formula (I’) :
  • R1, R2, R5 and R6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms
  • R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical,
  • X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical,
  • n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular whose viscosity at 25°C is between 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x 10 -6 m 2 /s) and 800 000 cSt.
  • non-volatile non phenylated silicone oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those for which:
  • the substituents R1 to R6 and X represent a methyl group
  • p and n are such that the viscosity is 500 000 cSt, such as the product sold under the name SE30 by the company General Electric, the product sold under the name AK 500000 by the company Wacker, the product sold under the name Mirasil DM 500 000 by the company Bluestar, and the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500 000 cSt by the company Dow Corning,
  • the substituents R1 to R6 and X represent a methyl group
  • p and n are such that the viscosity is 60 000 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS by the company Dow Corning, and the product sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60 000 by the company Wacker,
  • the substituents R1 to R6 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 350 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS by the company Dow Corning,
  • the substituents R1 to R6 represent a methyl group
  • the group X represents a hydroxyl group
  • n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by the company Momentive.
  • the composition may comprise volatile silicone oil.
  • the volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may be chosen from silicone oils especially having a viscosity £ 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 x 10-6 m2/s) and preferably greater than 0.5 cSt.
  • the volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention may be chosen from silicone oils having a flash point ranging from 40°C to 150°C, preferably having a flash point of greater than 55°C and less than or equal to 105°C, and preferentially ranging from 65°C to 95°C.
  • the flash point is in particular measured according to ISO standard 3679.
  • the volatile silicone oil may be chosen from linear or cyclic silicone oils such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms.
  • PDMSs linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes
  • Volatile silicone oils that may more particularly be mentioned include decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold especially under the name DC-245 by the company Dow Corning, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane sold especially under the name DC-246 by the company Dow Corning, octamethyltrisiloxane sold especially under the name DC-200 Fluid 1 cSt by the company Dow Corning, polydimethylsiloxanes such as decamethyltetrasiloxane sold especially under the name DC-200 Fluid 1.5 cSt by the company Dow Corning and DC-200 Fluid 5 cSt sold by the company Dow Corning, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethylethyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, octyl trimethicone, hexy
  • hydrocarbon-based oil (or “hydrocarbonated oil” , or “hydrocarbon oil” ) means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile apolar hydrocarbonated oil (also called apolar “hydrocarbon-based” oil) .
  • apolar oil means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, da, is equal to 0 (J/cm3) 1/2.
  • da (dp2+dh2) 1/2.
  • the non-volatile hydrocarbonnated apolar oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin.
  • non-volatile hydrocarbonated apolar oil may be chosen from:
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil, preferably chosen from polybutenes, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, polydecenes and/or hydrogenated polydecenes, and mixtures thereof.
  • non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil preferably chosen from polybutenes, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, polydecenes and/or hydrogenated polydecenes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more non-volatile polar hydrocarbonated oil.
  • polar oil means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, da, is other than 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
  • oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • additional non-volatile hydrocarbonated polar oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof:
  • hydrocarbonated plant oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, or caprylic and/or capric acid triglycerides, for example the one sold under the tradename 318 by the company Cognis (BASF) ;
  • - fatty acid esters in particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms, and especially of octanoic acid, heptanoic acid, lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid or stearic acid, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate or neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;
  • R 1 COOR 2 the oils of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R 1 +R 2 is16, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isononyl isononanoate, C 12 to C 15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricino
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 which are identical or different, each represent H or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 30 alkyl chain,
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are different from H
  • R 4 represents H or a group R' 4 -CO-, in which R' 4 represents a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 8 alkyl group;
  • Mentions may be made of, for example the ingredient acetyl tributyl citrate, such as those sold under the name Citroflex A4 by the company Vertellus.
  • R 1 represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid
  • R 2 represents a hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid residue
  • h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9
  • - fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms which are preferably branched, for instance octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol;
  • oils of plant origin such as sesame oil (820.6 g/mol) ;
  • the composition according to the invention further comprises a volatile hydrocarbonated oil such as isododecane and/or isohexadecane.
  • Such compound is compatible with the non-volatile hydrocarbonated and silicone oil and improves the spreadability during application and the transfer resistance of the deposit.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C 8 -C 16 branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins) , for instance isododecane (also called 2, 2, 4, 4, 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixture thereof.
  • hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C 8 -C 16 branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins) , for instance isododecane (also called 2, 2, 4, 4, 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixture thereof.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may also be a linear volatile alkane containing 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular 9 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly 11 to 13 carbon atoms. Mention may be made especially of n-nonadecane, n-decane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane and n-hexadecane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one oil chosen from the group consisting of non-volatile non phenyl silicone oil, non-volatile hydrocarbonated polar oil, or a mixture thereof. More preferably, the oil is selected from a group consisting of non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes, esters of citric acid corresponding to the formula (II’) :
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 which are identical or different, each represent H or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 30 alkyl chain,
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are different from H
  • R 4 represents H or a group R' 4 -CO-, in which R' 4 represents a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 8 alkyl group, or a mixture thereof.
  • the oil is selected from the group consisting of poly dimethylsiloxane with a viscosity of 100 cSt, acetyl tributyl citrate, or a mixture thereof.
  • the at least one oil (a) is present in an amount less than or equal to 3%by weight, preferably ranging from 0.001%to 2.5%by weight, more preferably from 0.01%to 2%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the second composition according to the present invention may comprise optionally at least one additional hydrophilic gelling agent.
  • hydrophilic gelling agent means a compound that is capable of gelling the aqueous phase, without combining with the polyvalent metal ions from the first composition.
  • the gelling agent may be water-soluble or water-dispersible.
  • hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, polymeric gelling agents that are natural or of natural origin, or a mixture thereof.
  • the term "synthetic" means that the polymer is neither naturally existing nor a derivative of a polymer of natural origin.
  • the synthetic polymeric gelling agent under consideration according to the present invention may or may not be particulate.
  • the term "particulate" when being used for the synthetic polymeric gelling agent, means that the polymer is in the form of particles, preferably spherical particles.
  • these polymers may be chosen especially from:
  • modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers such as the products sold under the name (CTFA name: Carbomer) by the company Goodrich; polyacrylates, polymethacrylates such as the products sold under the names Lubrajel TM and Norgel by the company Guardian or under the name by the company Hispano Chimica; polyacrylamides; optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, for instance the poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Clariant under the name Hostacerin (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) ; crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of which are in the form of a W/O emulsion, such as those sold under the name Sepigel TM 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/C 13-14 isoparaffin/Laureth-7) and under the name Simulgel TM 600 (CTFA name: Acryl
  • these polymers may be chosen from Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer such as, ultrez 20, ultrez 21, Permulen TM TR-1, Permulen TM TR-2, 1382, ETD 2020, Carbomer such as K, 980, Ammonium acryloyldimethyl Taurate/Steareth-8 Methacrylate copolymer such as SNC, Acrylates copolymer such as Aqua SF-1, Ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer such as HMS, Ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate such as AVC.
  • Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer such as, ultrez 20, ultrez 21, Permulen TM TR-1, Permulen TM TR-2, 1382, ETD 2020, Carbomer such as K, 980, Ammonium acryloyldimethyl Taurate/Steareth-8 Methacrylate cop
  • these polymers may be chosen from carboxyvinyl polymers such as the products (carbomers) such as Ultrez 20 Polymer marketed by Lubrizol and the Pemulen products (acrylate/C 10-30 alkylacrylate copolymer) ; polyacrylamides, for instance the crosslinked copolymers marketed under the trademarks Sepigel TM 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide/C 13-14 isoparaffin/Laureth-7) or SimulgelTM 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80) by SEPPIC; 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, which are optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, for instance the poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the trademark Hostacerin (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl
  • these polymers may be chosen from glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymers available from ISP Technologies, Inc. (United Guardian Inc. ) under the tradename Lubrajel TM , particular the form known as Lubrajel TM oil which contains about 1.0%-1.3%glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer in aqueous glycerin (about 40%glycerin) .
  • Lubrajel TM oil also includes about 0.6%PVM/MA copolymer (also known as methoxyethylene/maleic anhydride copolymer) .
  • the term "of natural origin” is intended to denote polymeric gelling agents obtained by modification of natural polymeric gelling agents.
  • These gelling agents may be particulate or non-particulate.
  • these gelling agents fall within the category of polysaccharides.
  • polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the present invention may be homopolysaccharides such as fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans or heteropolysaccharides such as hemicellulose.
  • they may be linear polysaccharides such as pullulan or branched polysaccharides such as gum arabic and amylopectin, or mixed polysaccharides such as starch.
  • the polysaccharides may be chosen from ones produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae, and higher plant polysaccharides, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and derivatives thereof or fructosans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arables, galactomannans, glucomannans, and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.
  • the polysaccharides may be chosen from fructans, gellans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, celluloses and derivatives thereof, in particular methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, arabinogalactans, glycosaminoglucans, gum arables, tragacanth gums, ghatti gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and nonionic derivatives thereof, in particular hydroxypropyl guar, and ionic derivatives thereof, biopoly saccharide gums of microbial origin, in particular
  • polysaccharides may be chemically modified, especially with urea or urethane groups or by hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfatation, phosphatation, amination, amidation or alkylation reaction, or by several of these modifications.
  • the derivatives obtained may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.
  • the polysaccharides is xanthan gum.
  • Xanthan is a heteropolysaccharide produced at the industrial scale by the aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure consists of a main chain of ⁇ (1, 4) -linked ⁇ -D-glucoses, similar to cellulose. One glucose molecule in two bears a trisaccharide side chain composed of an ⁇ -D-mannose, a ⁇ -D-glucuronic acid and a terminal ⁇ -D-mannose. The internal mannose residue is generally acetylated on carbon 6. About 30%of the terminal mannose residues bear a pyruvate group linked in chelated form between carbons 4 and 6.
  • the charged pyruvic acids and glucuronic acids are ionizable, and are thus responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge down to a pH equal to 1) .
  • the content of pyruvate and acetate residues varies according to the bacterial strain, the fermentation process, the conditions after fermentation and the purification steps. These groups may be neutralized in commercial products with Na+, K+or Ca2+ions (Satia company, 1986) .
  • the neutralized form may be converted into the acid form by ion exchange or by dialysis of an acidic solution.
  • Xanthan gums have a molecular weight of between 1 000 000 and 50 000 000 and a viscosity of between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa. s for an aqueous composition containing 1%of xanthan gum (measured at 25°C on a Brookfield viscometer of LVT type at 60 rpm) .
  • Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Rhodicare by the company Rhodia Chimie, under the name Satiaxane TM by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries) , under the name Novaxan TM by the company ADM, and under the names and by the company CP-Kelco.
  • the at least one hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from the group consisting of modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, polysaccharides produced by microorganisms, or a mixture thereof. More preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from the group consisting of poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) , xanthan gum, or a mixture thereof.
  • the at least one hydrophilic gelling agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01%to 2%by weight, preferably from 0.05%to 1%by weight, more preferably from 0.1%to 0.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention comprises at least one ferment obtained from Sphingomonas hydrophobicum.
  • Sphingomonas was defined in 1990 as a group of Gram-negative, rod-shaped, chemoheterotrophic, strictly aerobic bacteria. They possess ubiquinone 10 as their major respiratory quinone, contain glycosphingolipids (GSLs) , specifically ceramide instead of lipopolysaccharide (LPS) in their cell envelopes, and typically produce yellow-pigmented colonies.
  • GSLs glycosphingolipids
  • LPS lipopolysaccharide
  • Sphingomonas included more than 20 species that were quite diverse in terms of their phylogenetic, ecological, and physiological properties.
  • Sphingomonas was subdivided into different genera: Sphingomonas, Sphingobium, Novosphingobium, Sphingosinicella, and Sphingopyxis. These genera are commonly referred to collectively as sphingomonads.
  • the sphingomonads are widely distributed in nature, having been isolated from many different land and water habitats, as well as from plant root systems, clinical specimens, and other sources; this is due to their ability to survive in low concentrations of nutrients, as well as to metabolize a wide variety of carbon sources. Numerous strains have been isolated from environments contaminated with toxic compounds, where they display the ability to use the contaminants as nutrients.
  • Sphingomonads also play a role in human disease, primarily by causing a range of mostly nosocomial, non-life-threatening infections that typically are easily treated by antibiotic therapy.
  • Sphingomonas ferment extract is the extract of the product obtained by the fermentation of Sphingomonas. It is known to contain glycosphingolipids (GSLs) such as seramide, dihydrosphingosine, and glucuronic acid, and is popular for its reduction of lipid peroxidation and functioning of the key biomarkers of senescence, thus preventing the skin aging. Moreover, the inventors found that when formulating together with other anti-aging actives, such as lysate of microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species, the combination significantly promoted nidogen expression, indicating the anti-ageing potential of the combination.
  • GSLs glycosphingolipids
  • Mentions may be made of this type of active ingredient, such as the one sold under the trade name by the company Greentech.
  • the ferment obtained from Sphingomonas hydrophobicum presents in the composition with an amount ranging from 0.001%to 2%by weight, preferably from 0.001%to 1.5%by weight, more preferably from 0.005%to 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises at least one oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester.
  • the oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester may include from about 1 to about 200, preferably from about 10 to about 100, more preferably from about 15 to about 50, moles of an oxyalkylenated group, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
  • the oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester has about 1 to about 200, preferably from about 10 to about 100, more preferably from about 15 to about 50 moles of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, or mixtures thereof, including all ranges and subranges there between.
  • the oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester has about 1 to about 200, preferably from about 10 to about 100, more preferably from about 15 to about 50 moles of ethylene oxide, including all ranges and subranges there between.
  • the sugar fatty acid ester may be an ester of various types of fatty acids and of sugars, as far as the ester is cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable.
  • cosmetically acceptable or “dermatologically acceptable” is intended to mean that a composition is suitable for use in contact with human tissues such as keratinous materials and mucous membranes without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, and/or allergic response.
  • the sugar fatty ester is preferably a mono-or di-ester of a sugar.
  • “Sugar, " as used herein, is intended to include oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compounds that possess several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and having at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • sugars non-limiting examples include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, for example alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.
  • the sugar is glucose or its alkylated derivative such as an alkylglucose.
  • (alkyl) glucose is intended to include glucose, an alkylglucose, and a mixture of glucose and an alkylglucose.
  • esters of sugars and of fatty acids are preferably chosen from the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 30 , such as C 12 -C 22 , fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can have one to three, conjugated or unconjugated, carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri-and tetra-esters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.
  • esters can be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as the oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate mixed esters.
  • the mono-and di-esters may be used.
  • sugar fatty acid esters may include the mono-or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, of glucose, or of methylglucose.
  • the oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid esters that may preferably be used in the present invention include, for example, oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and methylglucose, such as a polyethylene glycol ether of a diester of methylglucose and stearic acid containing about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) , a polyethylene glycol ether of a mixture of the monoester and diester of methyl glucose and stearic acid containing about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, such as SSE-20 sold by Lubrizol) .
  • oxyalkylenated ethers may be used alone or in combination.
  • the oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester is an ethoxylated (alkyl) glucose fatty acid ester.
  • ethoxylated (alkyl) glucose fatty acid esters an ethoxylated (alkyl) glucose stearate, in particular, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate is preferred.
  • the amount of the oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester is preferably from 0.001%to 2%by weight, preferably from 0.001%to 1%by weight, more preferably from 0.05%to 0.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the mascara composition.
  • composition of the present invention may comprise at least one continuous aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase includes water, as the case may be, in a mixture with water-soluble additives and/or solvents.
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise organic solvents miscible with water (at room temperature-25°C) such as for example monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols notably having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylylglycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (notably having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di-or tri-propylene glycol (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl ethers, mono-, di-or tri-ethylene glycol (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl ethers and mixtures thereof.
  • organic solvents miscible with water such as for example monoalcohols having from 2 to 6
  • the aqueous phase of the compositions of the present invention comprises a polyol notably glycerol, caprylylglycol or propylene glycol, and a monoalcohol, notably ethanol.
  • the aqueous phase may contain additional active ingredient for anti-ageing.
  • Mentions may be made of microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium species.
  • the microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium species employed as active agents according to the invention are used in the form of a lysate.
  • a lysate commonly denotes a material obtained at the end of the destruction or dissolution of biological cells by means of a phenomenon termed cell lysis, thus causing release of the intracellular biological constituents naturally contained in the cells of the microorganism under consideration.
  • lysate is used without distinction to denote the entire lysate obtained by lysis of the microorganism concerned, or only a fraction thereof.
  • the invention relates to the use of a lysate of Bifidobacterium species and/or a fraction thereof.
  • the lysate used is therefore entirely or partly formed from the intracellular biological constituents and from the constituents of the cell walls and membranes.
  • the cytoplasmic cell fraction contains the enzymes such as lactic acid dehydrogenase, phosphatases, phosphoketolases and transaldolases, and the metabolites.
  • the cell wall constituents are in particular peptidoglycan, murein or mucopeptide and teichoic acid, and the cell membrane constituents are composed of glycerophospholipid.
  • This cell lysis may be accomplished by means of various technologies, such as, for example, osmotic shock, heat shock, by ultrasound, or else under mechanical stress of the centrifugation type.
  • this lysate can be obtained according to the technology described in patent US 4,464,362, and in particular according to the following protocol.
  • a microorganism of Bifidobacterium species type under consideration is cultured anaerobically in a suitable culture medium, for example according to the conditions described in documents US 4,464,362 and EP 0 043 128.
  • the culture medium can be inactivated by pasteurization, for example at a temperature of from 60 to 65°C for 30 min.
  • the microorganisms are then recovered by means of a conventional separation technique, for example membrane filtration, centrifuged, and resuspended in a sterile solution of NaCl at a physiological concentration.
  • the lysate can be obtained by disintegration of such a medium with ultrasound, in order to release therefrom the cytoplasmic fractions, the cell wal fragments and the metabolism-derived products. Next, all the components in their natural distribution are subsequently stabilized in a weakly acidic aqueous solution.
  • a lysate having a concentration of the order of from 0.1%to 50%, in particular from 1%to 20%, and especially approximately 10%by weight of active material (s) , relative to the total weight thereof, is thus generally obtained.
  • the lysate may be used in various forms, in the form of a solution or in pulverulent form.
  • a microorganism most particularly suitable for the invention belongs to the genus Bifidobacterium species chosen from the species: Bifidobacterium longum, Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium breve, Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium lactis, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium adolescentis or Bifidobacterium pseudocatenulatum, and mixtures thereof.
  • the species Bifidobacterium longum is most particularly suitable for the invention.
  • the lysate may advantageously be the lysate registered under the INCI name: Bifidat ferment Lysate, under the EINECS name: Bifidobacterium longum, under EINECS No.: 306-168-4 and under CAS No.: 96507-89-0.
  • the amount of aqueous phase may range, for example, from 70%to 99%by weight, preferably from 75%to 99%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous phase may also contain other additives such as water-soluble active ingredients, preservatives, salts, fillers, water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers, water-soluble dyes, and so on.
  • a composition according to the present invention comprises at least one dispersed oily phase, in addition to the oils described here above.
  • the amount of oily phase may range, for example, from 1%to 30%by weight, preferably from 1%to 10%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention is a cosmetic composition for caring for keratin materials, and may be in form of serum, lotion, toner, cream, or spray.
  • the composition of the present invention is in form of a serum.
  • composition of the present invention is stable over time.
  • “Stable over time” is understood to mean compositions of the present invention which, after storage at all temperatures between 4°C and 45°C for 2 months, do not exhibit any macroscopic change in colour, smell or viscosity, any variation in pH or any variation in microscopic appearance.
  • composition of the present invention can be used for a cosmetic process, such as a cosmetic process or method, for caring for the keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face and the lips, by being applied to the skin, especially the face.
  • a cosmetic process such as a cosmetic process or method
  • the keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face and the lips
  • the present invention also relates to a use of the composition according to the present invention, for caring for the skin, especially for the face.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, comprising the application, to the keratin material, of at least one composition of the present invention, wherein the keratin material is preferably the skin, in particular the face.
  • the invention formulas A-A5, and the comparative formulas B-D were formulated, and were evaluated with the Turbidmat and Rheomat 180 viscometer, and Turbidimeter from the company Hach, respectively, under 25°C.
  • invention formula A presents a pleasant translucent appearance, and a good texture
  • comparative formulas B to D all have deficiencies in either the appearance, or the texture.
  • invention formula A1-A5 showed superior texture and appearance, comparing to the other formulas.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition pour le soin de matières kératiniques, comprenant : (A) 3 % en poids ou moins d'au moins une huile, rapporté au poids total de la composition; (b) au moins un agent gélifiant hydrophile; (c) un ferment obtenu à partir de Sphingomonas hydrophobicum; et (d) au moins un éther oxyalkyléné d'un ester d'acide gras de sucre. La composition vise à traiter le vieillissement de la peau, et conserve une texture souhaitée et un aspect translucide.
PCT/CN2020/106248 2020-07-31 2020-07-31 Composition pour le soin des matières kératiniques comprenant un extrait de ferment de sphingomonas WO2022021341A1 (fr)

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PCT/CN2020/106248 WO2022021341A1 (fr) 2020-07-31 2020-07-31 Composition pour le soin des matières kératiniques comprenant un extrait de ferment de sphingomonas
KR1020227041759A KR20230074062A (ko) 2020-07-31 2020-07-31 스핑고모나스 발효 추출물을 포함하는 케라틴 물질 케어용 조성물
JP2022580965A JP7644152B2 (ja) 2020-07-31 2020-07-31 ケラチン物質をケアするためのスフィンゴモナス（Ｓｐｈｉｎｇｏｍｏｎａｓ）発酵物抽出物を含む組成物
CN202080104523.4A CN116096349A (zh) 2020-07-31 2020-07-31 包含鞘氨醇单胞菌发酵产物提取物的用于护理角蛋白材料的组合物
FR2009894A FR3112948B1 (fr) 2020-07-31 2020-09-29 Composition pour prendre soin des matieres keratineuses comprenant un extrait de ferment de sphingomonas

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CN114717153A (zh) * 2022-04-29 2022-07-08 广东省科学院生物与医学工程研究所 嗜温鞘氨醇杆菌在降解羽毛粉产生生物表面活性剂的应用
CN117618578A (zh) * 2023-11-24 2024-03-01 广州梵之容化妆品有限公司 一种耐高压均质的增稠剂及其应用

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FR3146281A1 (fr) * 2023-03-01 2024-09-06 Societe Industrielle Limousine D'application Biologique Extrait de Sphingomonas panaciterrae et ses utilisations cosmétiques

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