WO2022021341A1

WO2022021341A1 - Composition for caring for the keratin materials comprising sphingomonas ferment extract

Info

Publication number: WO2022021341A1
Application number: PCT/CN2020/106248
Authority: WO
Inventors: Hongling Xu; Ruijun Chen; Yangdong CHEN; Zhiming Zhang
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2020-07-31
Filing date: 2020-07-31
Publication date: 2022-02-03
Also published as: CN116096349A; JP7644152B2; KR20230074062A; FR3112948B1; JP2023536047A; FR3112948A1

Abstract

It relates to a composition for caring for keratin materials, comprising: (a) less than or equal to 3% by weight of at least one oil, relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; (c) ferment obtained from Sphingomonas hydrophobicum; and (d) at least one oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester. The composition aims at treating skin-ageing, and remains a desired texture and translucent appearance.

Description

Composition for caring for the keratin materials comprising Sphingomonas ferment extract

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a composition in the form of pre-essence for caring for the keratin materials, in particular the skin. It relates more particularly to a composition comprising Sphingomonas ferment extract. It also relates to the use, namely cosmetic use, of a composition comprising Sphingomonas ferment extract, for reinforcing the repair and regeneration capacity of the keratin materials, in particular the skin.

The present invention further relates to a non-therapeutic method, comprising at least the administration, to an individual subject to skin aging, of at least the said composition.

BACKGROUND

The present invention aims to provide a composition for preventing and/or treating skin aging, with a desired translucent texture and appearance, in particular, essence aspect.

The epidermis is an epithelium, conventionally divided up into a basal layer of keratinocytes containing, in particular, skin stem cells and constituting the germinative layer of the epidermis, a "spiny" layer constituted of several layers of polyhedral cells placed on the basal layer, a "granular" layer comprising one to three layers said to be of flattened cells containing distinct cytoplasmic inclusions, keratohyalin granules, and finally, a set of upper layers, called horny layer (or stratum corneum) constituted of keratinocytes at the terminal stage of their differentiation, called corneocytes.

The stratum corneum, or horny layer, is the superficial layer of the epidermis located at the interface between the organism and its environment. It is composed of corneocytes, which are anucleate cells resulting from the differentiation of epidermal keratinocytes. The corneocytes are rich in keratins and are surrounded by an impermeable lipid matrix. By virtue of its protein and lipid composition, the stratum corneum plays an essential skin barrier role. It prevents the intrusion of microbiological agents and makes it possible to preserve the hydration of the skin and therefore of the body in general.

During skin aging, and other than the well-known consequences of age on the relief of the skin, many forms of discomfort are reported by elderly individuals. These forms of discomfort are caused by an impairment of the barrier function and of the epidermal homeostasis of their skin. Thus, the stratum corneum of aged skin has a reduced intercellular lipid content compared with young skin, particularly during the winter period. This change in composition of the stratum corneum disrupts its physicochemical skin barrier properties. Finally, the speed of recovery of the barrier function after impairment of the stratum corneum slows down with age, implying a dysfunction of the homeostatic function of the epidermis (Denda, M., 2002; Ghadially, R. et al, 1995; Leveque, J.L., 2001) . The Applicant has, in addition, observed, under these same circumstances, that, in response to a physical or chemical attack on the stratum corneum, particular genes show modulation kinetics that are significantly different according to the age of the individual. More specifically, the induction of the expression of certain genes is found to be slowed in aged skin, in comparison with young skin.

Moreover, the homeostasis of the skin, and in particular of the epidermis, results from a finely regulated balance between the processes of proliferation and differentiation of the cells of the skin. These proliferation and differentiation processes are perfectly regulated: they participate in the renewal and/or regeneration of the skin and lead to the maintenance of a constant skin thickness, and in particular a constant epidermal thickness. This homeostasis of the skin is also involved in maintaining the mechanical properties of the skin.

However, this homeostasis of the skin can be impaired by certain physiological factors (age, menopause, hormones, etc. ) or environmental factors (UV stress, pollution, oxidative stress, irritant stress, etc. ) . The regenerative potential of the epidermis becomes less great: the cells of the basal layer divide less actively, which leads in particular to a slowing down and/or a decrease in epidermal renewal. Consequently, cell renewal no longer compensates for the loss of the cells removed at the surface, leading to atrophy of the epidermis and/or to a decrease in the thickness of the skin and/or a loss of elasticity and/or of firmness of the skin.

The alterations in epidermal homeostasis are also reflected by a dull and/or poorly defined appearance to the complexion of the skin.

This phenomenon may be accentuated by the menopause: women complain of their skin tightening and becoming dry, or even of the appearance of xerosis. The hormonal deficits associated with the menopause are accompanied in particular by a drop in metabolic activity, which could result in a decrease in the proliferation of the keratinocytes and an increase in epidermal differentiation.

It is therefore advantageous to also have available compositions capable of promoting the homeostasis of the skin in order to maintain and/or increase the thickness of the skin and thus to maintain and/or improve the mechanical properties of the skin and/or promote the radiance of the complexion. To date, many bio-based active ingredients are known for treating the skin-aging, phytosphingosine salicylate derivatives, lysate of microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species, or ferment extracts obtained from adaptogen bacteria, such as Sphingomonas hydrophobicum.

Among these ingredients, the ferment obtained from Sphingomonas hydrophobicum is known to contain glycosphingolipids (GSLs) such as seramide, dihydrosphingosine, and glucuronic acid, and is popular for its reduction of lipid peroxidation and functioning of the key biomarkers of senescence, thus preventing the skin aging. Moreover, the inventors found that when formulating together with other anti-aging actives, such as lysate of microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species, the combination significantly promoted nidogen expression, indicating the anti-ageing potential of the combination.

On the other hand, texture and appearance of a cosmetic product are also key factors to the consumers. Serum, with the thickened texture and translucent appearance are always favoured by the consumers thanks to its nourishing and luxurious cue. To date, various types of serums are on the market with the desired texture and appearance.

However, to the inventors’ knowledge, there is no prior art disclosing a serum with the desired texture and appearance for anti-ageing, comprising a ferment obtained from Sphingomonas hydrophobicum. It is difficult to simply formulating a serum of any type with the active, and remain stable over time.

Therefore, there is a need to formulate a stable composition for caring for the skin, in particular treating the ageing of the skin, with a desired texture and translucent appearance.

Besides, there is a need to formulate such a composition as mentioned above, with a good skin feeling, such as water retention, moisturizing feeling.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The applicant found that such a need can be met by formulating a combination of oil (s) , hydrophilic gelling agent (s) , ferment obtained from Sphingomonas hydrophobicum, and a specific surfactant (s) .

More specifically, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratin materials, comprising:

(a) less than or equal to 3%by weight of at least one oil, relative to the total weight of the composition;

(b) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;

(c) ferment obtained from Sphingomonas hydrophobicum; and

(d) at least one oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester.

The present invention also relates to a process for caring for the keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the present invention.

The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the present invention for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin.

The present invention relates to the use of the composition according to the present invention for treating the skin ageing.

By “keratin materials” we intend to mean human keratin materials and more specifically the skin.

By “desired texture” we intend to mean the composition of the present invention provides a desired viscosity.

For the purpose of the present invention, the viscosity of a composition of the invention may be measured via any process known to those skilled in the art, and especially according to the following conventional process. Thus, the measurement can be carried out at 25℃ using a Rheomat 180 viscometer equipped with a spindle rotating at 200 rpm. Those skilled in the art may select the spindle for measuring the viscosity from the spindles M1, M2, M3 and M4 on the basis of their general knowledge, so as to be able to perform the measurement.

By “translucent appearance” we intended to mean the turbidity of the composition of the present invention is between 400 to 8000 NTU (Nephelometric Turbidity Units) at 25℃.

More preferably, the turbidity of the composition of the present invention ranges between 800 NTU to 7500 NTU, more preferably from 1000 NTU to 7500 NTU, at 25℃.

The turbidity of the compositions of the present invention is measured using a 2100P Turbidimeter machine from the company Hach under 25℃.

Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follows. In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "of between" and "ranging from... to..." .

Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

(a) oil

A composition in accordance with the present invention comprises at least one oil, chosen from silicone oils, hydrocarbon-based oils, or a mixture thereof.

The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

The term “volatile” means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour, at room temperature (25℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) . The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg) , preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.1 to 10 mmHg) .

The term "non-volatile" means an oil whose vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) .

1. Silicone oils

The term “silicone oil” is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O group.

The non-volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may be chosen especially from silicone oils especially with a viscosity at 25℃ of greater than or equal to 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x 10 ^-6 m ²/s) and preferably less than 800 000 cSt, preferably between 50 and 600 000 cSt and preferably between 100 and 500 000 cSt. The viscosity of this silicone oil may be measured according to standard ASTM D-445.

Among these silicone oils, two types of oil may be distinguished, according to whether or not they contain phenyl.

A. Non-volatile Phenyl silicone oil or non-volatile phenylated silicone oil

The expression “phenylated silicone oil” or “phenyl silicone oil” means a silicone oil having at least one phenyl substituent.

The phenyl silicone oil can be chosen among those having at least a dimethicone, or those having no dimethicone part.

According to the present invention, the dimethicone part corresponds to the formula: -Si (CH ₃) -O-.

More particularly, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from:

a) the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (I) , with or without a dimethicone part:

in which the groups R represent, monovalent or divalent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl.

Preferably, in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six.

b) the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (II) , with or without a dimethicone part:

in which the groups R represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl.

Preferably, in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five.

Mixtures of the phenyl organopolysiloxanes described previously may be used.

Examples that may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl-, tetraphenyl-or pentaphenyl-organopolysiloxanes.

Among the compounds of formula (II) , a preferred embodiment is made in particular to a phenyl silicone oil without a dimethicone part and correspond to the formula (II) wherein at least 4 or at least 5 of the group R represent phenyl, and the remaining R groups represent methyl.

Such phenyl silicone oils are preferably trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, or tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane. Such oils are especially manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1, 3, 5-trimethyl-1, 1, 3, 5, 5-pentaphenyl trisiloxane; INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane) , or tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane sold under the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning may also be used.

In particular, these silicone oils correspond to the formulas (III) , or (III’) :

in which Me represents methyl, Ph represents phenyl.

c) the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (IV) , with or without a dimethicone part:

in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1,000 and X represents-CH ₂-CH (CH ₃) (Ph) .

d) the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (V) below, and the mixtures thereof:

in which:

- R ₁ to R ₁₀, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C ₁-C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radicals,

- m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, with the proviso that the sum m+n+q is other than 0.

Preferably, the sum m+n+q is between 1 and 100. Preferably, the sum m+n+p+q is between 1 and 900 and better still between 1 and 800. Preferably, q is equal to 0.

Preferably, R ₁ to R ₁₀, independently of each other, represent a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C ₁-C ₃₀, preferably C ₁-C ₂₀, in particular C ₁-C ₁₆, hydrocarbon radical, preferably saturated, or a monocyclic or polycyclic C ₆-C ₁₄ and especially C ₁₀-C ₁₃ aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical.

Preferably, R ₁ to R ₁₀ may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. R ₁ to R ₁₀ may especially be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention of the formula (V) can be:

i) the phenyl silicones oils corresponding to the formula (VI) below, and mixtures thereof:

in which:

- R ₁ to R ₆, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C ₁-C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably R ₁ to R ₆ are a C ₁-C ₃₀ alkyl radical, an aryl radical or an aralkyl radical, more preferably a C ₆-C ₁₄ aryl radical, or a C ₁-C ₃ alkyl radical or aralkyl radical;

- m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.

Preferably, R ₁ to R ₆, independently of each other, represent a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C ₁-C ₃₀, hydrocarbon radical, preferably saturated, and especially C ₁-C ₂₀, or C ₁-C ₁₆ hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular C ₃-C ₁₆ and more particularly C ₄-C ₁₀, or a monocyclic or polycyclic C ₆-C ₁₄ and especially C ₁₀-C ₁₃ aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical. Preferably, R ₁ to R ₆ may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.

R ₁ to R ₆ may especially be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical. Preferably, m=1 or 2 or 3, and/or n=0 and/or p=0 or 1 may apply, in formula (VI) .

According to a particular embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil of the present invention is chosen from the phenyl silicone oils having at least a dimethicone part.

Preferably the said oil corresponds to the formula (VI) , wherein:

A) m=0 and n and p, independently of each other, are integers between 1 and 100.

Preferably R ₁ to R ₆ are methyl group.

Examples of such silicone oils are, for example, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones (such as KF-54 from Shin Etsu (400 cSt) , KF54HV from Shin Etsu (5000 cSt) , KF-50-300CS from Shin Etsu (300 cSt) , KF-53 from Shin Etsu (175cSt) , KF-50-100CS from Shin Etsu (100 cSt) .

B) p is an integer between 1 and 100, the sum of n+m is between 1 and 100, and more preferably n=0.

Such phenyl silicone oils with or without at least one dimethicone part correspond in particular to the formula (VII)

in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group-OSiMe3 and p is 0 or ranges between 1 and 1000, and m ranges between 1 and 1000, in particular, m and p are such that compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil.

According to a first embodiment of the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil having at least one dimethicone part, p ranges between 1 and 1000, m is in particular such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil. Use may be made, for example, of trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, sold especially under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 sold by the company Wacker.

According to a second embodiment of the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil without a dimethicone part, p is equal to 0, m ranges between 1 and 1000, and in particular, is such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil. Use may be made, for example, of phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane, sold especially under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556) .

ii) the phenyl silicone oils without a dimethicone part, corresponding to the formula (VIII) below, and mixtures thereof:

in which:

- R, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C ₁-C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably R is a C ₁-C ₃₀ alkyl radical, an aryl radical or an aralkyl radical, more preferably R is a C ₆-C ₁₄ aryl radical, or a aralkyl radical with the C ₁-C ₃ alkyl group.

- m and n are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.

Preferably, R, independently of each other, represent a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C ₁-C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radical, preferably saturated, and especially C ₁-C ₁₂ hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular C ₃-C ₁₆ and more particularly C ₄-C ₁₀, or a monocyclic or polycyclic C ₆-C ₁₄ and especially C ₁₀-C ₁₃ aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical.

Preferably, R may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.

R may especially be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.

Preferably, m=1 or 2 or 3, and/or n=0 and/or p=0 or 1 may apply, in formula (VIII) .

According to a preferred embodiment, n is an integer between 0 and 100 and m is an integer between 1 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100, in formula (VIII) . Preferably R is methyl radical.

According to a preferred embodiment, n is an integer ranging between 0 and 100, and m is an integer ranging between 1 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m ranges between 1 and 100, in the formula (VIII) . More preferably R is a methyl radical.

According to one embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) with a viscosity at 25℃ of between 5 and 1500 mm ²/s (i.e. 5 to 1500 cSt) , and preferably with a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm ²/s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt) may be used.

According to this embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is preferably chosen from phenyl trimethicones; such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt, the oil diphenylsiloxy phenyltrimethicone such as KF-56 A from Shin Etsu, the oil Silbione 70663V30 from

(28 cSt) . The values in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25℃.

According to this embodiment, when n=0, said silicone oil is preferably DC556 from Dow Corning, and when m and n are between 1 and 100, said silicone oil is preferably KF-56 A from Shin Etsu.

e) the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (IX) , with or without a dimethicone part, and mixtures thereof:

in which:

R1, R2, R5 and R6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical, with the proviso that at least one from R3 and R4 is a phenyl radical,

X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical,

n and p being integer superior or equal to 1, chosen so as to give the oil a weight-average molecular mass of less than 200 000 g/mol, preferably less than 150 000 g/mol and more preferably less than 100 000 g/mol.

f) and mixture thereof.

As preferred non-volatile silicone oils, with or without a dimethicone part, examples that may be mentioned include silicone oils such as:

- non-volatile phenyl silicone oil, preferably chosen from: Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane (such as as PH-1554 HRI or Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid from Dow Corning) , trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone (for instance Belsil PDM 1000 from the company Wacker (cf. formula (V) above) ) , phenyl trimethicones (such as the phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning) , phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones (such as KF-54 from Shin Etsu (400 cSt) , KF54HV from Shin Etsu (5000 cSt) , KF-50-300CS from Shin Etsu (300 cSt) , KF-53 from Shin Etsu (175cSt) , KF-50-100CS from Shin Etsu (100 cSt) , diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane (such as the product sold under the name Dow Corning PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic fluid by Dow Corning) (cf. formula (III) above) , diphenylsiloxy phenyltrimethicone (such as KF-56 A from Shin Etsu) ,

- non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) , polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, and

- mixtures thereof.

B. Non-volatile non phenyl silicone oil

The composition according to the invention may also comprise a non-volatile non phenyl silicone oil.

The expression “non-volatile non phenyl silicone oil” or “non phenylated non-volatile silicone oil” are equivalent and both means a silicon oil having no phenyl substituent.

Representative examples of these non-volatile non phenyl silicone oils that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones; vinyl methyl methicones; and also silicones modified with optionally fluorinated aliphatic groups, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.

The non-volatile non phenyl silicon oil is preferably chosen from dimethicone oils, preferably chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones.

“Dimethicone” (INCI Name) corresponds to polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name) .

Non-volatile non phenyl silicone oils can be chosen from:

- non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) , for example poly dimethylsiloxane with a viscosity of 100 CST sold under the trade name Dowsil SH200 Fluid (100 cSt) by Dow Corning, or Belsil DM 100 sold by the company Wacker.

- PDMSs comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, such as cetyldimethicone sold under the commercial reference ABIL WAX 9801 from Evonik Goldschmidt,

- PDMSs comprising aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,

- polyalkylmethylsiloxanes such as cetyldimethicone sold under the commercial reference ABIL WAX 9801 from Evonik Goldschmidt, or polyalkylmethylsiloxane optionally substituted with a fluorinated group, such as polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxanes,

- polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,

- polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.

These non-volatile non phenyl linear silicone oils may be chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones; vinyl methyl methicones; and also silicones modified with optionally fluorinated aliphatic groups, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.

The non-volatile non phenyl linear silicone oil may be chosen especially from the silicones of formula (I’) :

in which:

R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical,

X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical,

n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular whose viscosity at 25℃ is between 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x 10 ^-6 m ²/s) and 800 000 cSt.

As non-volatile non phenylated silicone oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those for which:

- the substituents R1 to R6 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 500 000 cSt, such as the product sold under the name SE30 by the company General Electric, the product sold under the name AK 500000 by the company Wacker, the product sold under the name Mirasil DM 500 000 by the company Bluestar, and the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500 000 cSt by the company Dow Corning,

- the substituents R1 to R6 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 60 000 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS by the company Dow Corning, and the product sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60 000 by the company Wacker,

- the substituents R1 to R6 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 350 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS by the company Dow Corning,

- the substituents R1 to R6 represent a methyl group, the group X represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by the company Momentive.

For the purposes of the invention, the composition may comprise volatile silicone oil.

The volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may be chosen from silicone oils especially having a viscosity ￡ 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 x 10-6 m2/s) and preferably greater than 0.5 cSt.

The volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention may be chosen from silicone oils having a flash point ranging from 40℃ to 150℃, preferably having a flash point of greater than 55℃ and less than or equal to 105℃, and preferentially ranging from 65℃ to 95℃. The flash point is in particular measured according to ISO standard 3679.

The volatile silicone oil may be chosen from linear or cyclic silicone oils such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms.

Volatile silicone oils that may more particularly be mentioned include decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold especially under the name DC-245 by the company Dow Corning, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane sold especially under the name DC-246 by the company Dow Corning, octamethyltrisiloxane sold especially under the name DC-200 Fluid 1 cSt by the company Dow Corning, polydimethylsiloxanes such as decamethyltetrasiloxane sold especially under the name DC-200 Fluid 1.5 cSt by the company Dow Corning and DC-200 Fluid 5 cSt sold by the company Dow Corning, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethylethyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, octyl trimethicone, hexyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (cyclopentasiloxane or D5) , octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (cyclotetra

dimethyl

siloxane or D4) , dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6) , decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4) , KF 96 A from Shin Etsu, and mixtures thereof.

2. Hydrocarbonated oil

The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” (or “hydrocarbonated oil” , or “hydrocarbon oil” ) means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

These oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

A. Non-volatile hydrocarbonated apolar oil

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile apolar hydrocarbonated oil (also called apolar “hydrocarbon-based” oil) .

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “apolar oil” means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25℃, da, is equal to 0 (J/cm3) 1/2.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C.M. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" , J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967) .

According to this Hansen space:

- dD characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;

- dp characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

- dh characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc. ) ; and

- da is determined by the equation: da= (dp2+dh2) 1/2.

The parameters dp, dh, dD and da are expressed in (J/cm3) 1/2.

Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbonnated apolar oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin.

In particular said non-volatile hydrocarbonated apolar oil may be chosen from:

- liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof,

- squalane,

- isoeicosane,

- naphthalene oil,

- polybutylenes such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW=965 g/mol) , Indopol H-300 (MW=1340 g/mol) and Indopol H-1500 (MW=2160 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Amoco,

- polyisobutenes,

- hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as

sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured by the company Amoco (MW=1340 g/mol) , Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by the company Synteal (MW=6000 g/mol) and Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by the company Witco (MW=1000 g/mol) , or alternatively Parleam Lite sold by NOF Corporation,

- decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol L-14,

- polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: Puresyn 10 (MW=723 g/mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW=9200 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals, or alternatively Puresyn 6 sold by ExxonMobil Chemical) , and

- mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil, preferably chosen from polybutenes, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, polydecenes and/or hydrogenated polydecenes, and mixtures thereof.

B. Non-volatile hydrocarbonated polar oil

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more non-volatile polar hydrocarbonated oil.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polar oil” means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25℃, da, is other than 0 (J/cm ³) ^1/2.

These oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

In particular, the additional non-volatile hydrocarbonated polar oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof:

- hydrocarbonated plant oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, or caprylic and/or capric acid triglycerides, for example the one sold under the tradename

318 by the company Cognis (BASF) ;

- ester oils, preferably chosen from:

- fatty acid esters, in particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms, and especially of octanoic acid, heptanoic acid, lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid or stearic acid, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate or neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;

- synthetic esters, for instance the oils of formula R ₁COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R ₁+R ₂ is16, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isononyl isononanoate, C ₁₂ to C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate; preferably, the preferred synthetic esters R ₁COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms are such that R ₁ and R ₂ is 20;

- linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW=697g/mol) ;

- hydroxylated esters, preferably with a total carbon number

from 35 to 70, for instance polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (MW=965 g/mol) , isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

- esters of aromatic acids and of alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms, such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW=757 g/mol) ;

- C ₂₄-C ₂₈ esters of branched fatty alcohols or fatty acids such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 955 039, and especially triisoarachidyl citrate (MW=1033.76 g/mol) , pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MW=697g/mol) , glyceryl triisostearate (MM= 891 g/mol) , glyceryl tris (2-decyl) tetradecanoate (MW= 1143 g/mol) , pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW=1202 g/mol) , polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate (MW=1232 g/mol) or pentaerythrityl tetrakis (2-decyl) tetradecanoate (MW=1538 g/mol) ,

- esters of citric acid corresponding to the formula (II’) :

in which R ₁, R ₂ and R ₃, which are identical or different, each represent H or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C ₁-C ₃₀ alkyl chain,

wherein at least one of R ₁, R ₂ and R ₃ is different from H, and

R ₄ represents H or a group R' ₄-CO-, in which R' ₄ represents a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C ₁-C ₈ alkyl group;

Mentions may be made of, for example the ingredient acetyl tributyl citrate, such as those sold under the name Citroflex A4 by the company Vertellus.

- polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one hydroxylated carboxylic acid triglyceride with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and with an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, which is optionally unsaturated, for instance the succinic acid and isostearic acid castor oil sold under the reference Zenigloss by Zenitech;

- esters of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer of general formula HO-R ₁- (-OCO-R ₂-COO-R ₁-) _h-OH, in which:

R ₁ represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid,

R ₂ represents a hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid residue, and

h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9,

especially the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleyl diol dimers sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan

and

- polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, in particular such as dilinoleic acid and 1, 4-butanediol. Mention may especially be made in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer) , or copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA;

- fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, which are preferably branched, for instance octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol;

- fatty acids containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance oleic acid;

- oils of plant origin, such as sesame oil (820.6 g/mol) ;

- dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol

by Cognis; and

- vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as the vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymer, Antaron V-216 sold or manufactured by the company ISP (MW=7300 g/mol) .

C. Volatile hydrocarbonated oil

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises a volatile hydrocarbonated oil such as isododecane and/or isohexadecane.

Such compound is compatible with the non-volatile hydrocarbonated and silicone oil and improves the spreadability during application and the transfer resistance of the deposit.

The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C ₈-C ₁₆ branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins) , for instance isododecane (also called 2, 2, 4, 4, 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixture thereof.

The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may also be a linear volatile alkane containing 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular 9 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly 11 to 13 carbon atoms. Mention may be made especially of n-nonadecane, n-decane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane and n-hexadecane, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one oil chosen from the group consisting of non-volatile non phenyl silicone oil, non-volatile hydrocarbonated polar oil, or a mixture thereof. More preferably, the oil is selected from a group consisting of non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes, esters of citric acid corresponding to the formula (II’) :

wherein at least one of R ₁, R ₂ and R ₃ is different from H, and

R ₄ represents H or a group R' ₄-CO-, in which R' ₄ represents a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C ₁-C ₈ alkyl group, or a mixture thereof.

Most preferably, the oil is selected from the group consisting of poly dimethylsiloxane with a viscosity of 100 cSt, acetyl tributyl citrate, or a mixture thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the at least one oil (a) is present in an amount less than or equal to 3%by weight, preferably ranging from 0.001%to 2.5%by weight, more preferably from 0.01%to 2%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(b) Hydrophilic gelling agent (s)

The second composition according to the present invention may comprise optionally at least one additional hydrophilic gelling agent.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic gelling agent" means a compound that is capable of gelling the aqueous phase, without combining with the polyvalent metal ions from the first composition.

The gelling agent may be water-soluble or water-dispersible.

More specificallly, the hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, polymeric gelling agents that are natural or of natural origin, or a mixture thereof.

Synthetic polymeric gelling agents

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "synthetic" means that the polymer is neither naturally existing nor a derivative of a polymer of natural origin.

The synthetic polymeric gelling agent under consideration according to the present invention may or may not be particulate.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "particulate" , when being used for the synthetic polymeric gelling agent, means that the polymer is in the form of particles, preferably spherical particles.

More specifically, these polymers may be chosen especially from:

modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the name

(CTFA name: Carbomer) by the company Goodrich; polyacrylates, polymethacrylates such as the products sold under the names Lubrajel ^TM and Norgel by the company Guardian or under the name

by the company Hispano Chimica; polyacrylamides; optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, for instance the poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Clariant under the name Hostacerin

(CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) ; crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of

which are in the form of a W/O emulsion, such as those sold under the name Sepigel ^TM305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/C _13-14 isoparaffin/Laureth-7) and under the name Simulgel ^TM 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, these polymers may be chosen from Acrylates/C _10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer such as,

ultrez 20,

ultrez 21, Permulen ^TM TR-1, Permulen ^TM TR-2,

1382,

ETD 2020, Carbomer such as

K,

980, Ammonium acryloyldimethyl Taurate/Steareth-8 Methacrylate copolymer such as

SNC, Acrylates copolymer such as

Aqua SF-1, Ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer such as

HMS, Ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate such as

AVC.

Preferably, these polymers may be chosen from carboxyvinyl polymers such as the

products (carbomers) such as

Ultrez 20 Polymer marketed by Lubrizol and the Pemulen products (acrylate/C _10-30 alkylacrylate copolymer) ; polyacrylamides, for instance the crosslinked copolymers marketed under the trademarks Sepigel ^TM305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide/C _13-14 isoparaffin/Laureth-7) or SimulgelTM 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80) by SEPPIC; 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, which are optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, for instance the poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the trademark Hostacerin

(CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate) or Simulgel ^TM800 marketed by SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate/polysorbate 80/sorbitan oleate) ; copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, for instance Simulgel ^TM NS and Sepinov EMT 10 marketed by SEPPIC; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, these polymers may be chosen from glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymers available from ISP Technologies, Inc. (United Guardian Inc. ) under the tradename Lubrajel ^TM, particular the form known as Lubrajel ^TM oil which contains about 1.0%-1.3%glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer in aqueous glycerin (about 40%glycerin) . Lubrajel ^TM oil also includes about 0.6%PVM/MA copolymer (also known as methoxyethylene/maleic anhydride copolymer) .

Polymeric gelling agents that are natural or of natural origin

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "of natural origin" is intended to denote polymeric gelling agents obtained by modification of natural polymeric gelling agents.

These gelling agents may be particulate or non-particulate.

More specifically, these gelling agents fall within the category of polysaccharides.

In general, polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the present invention may be homopolysaccharides such as fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans or heteropolysaccharides such as hemicellulose.

Similarly, they may be linear polysaccharides such as pullulan or branched polysaccharides such as gum arabic and amylopectin, or mixed polysaccharides such as starch.

In general, the polysaccharides may be chosen from ones produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae, and higher plant polysaccharides, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and derivatives thereof or fructosans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arables, galactomannans, glucomannans, and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the polysaccharides may be chosen from fructans, gellans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, celluloses and derivatives thereof, in particular methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, arabinogalactans, glycosaminoglucans, gum arables, tragacanth gums, ghatti gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and nonionic derivatives thereof, in particular hydroxypropyl guar, and ionic derivatives thereof, biopoly saccharide gums of microbial origin, in particular scleroglucan or xanthan gums, mucopolysaccharides, and in particular chondroitin sulfates, and mixtures thereof. These polysaccharides may be chemically modified, especially with urea or urethane groups or by hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfatation, phosphatation, amination, amidation or alkylation reaction, or by several of these modifications.

The derivatives obtained may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.

Advantageously, the polysaccharides is xanthan gum.

Xanthan is a heteropolysaccharide produced at the industrial scale by the aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure consists of a main chain of β (1, 4) -linked β-D-glucoses, similar to cellulose. One glucose molecule in two bears a trisaccharide side chain composed of an α-D-mannose, a β-D-glucuronic acid and a terminal β-D-mannose. The internal mannose residue is generally acetylated on carbon 6. About 30%of the terminal mannose residues bear a pyruvate group linked in chelated form between carbons 4 and 6. The charged pyruvic acids and glucuronic acids are ionizable, and are thus responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge down to a pH equal to 1) . The content of pyruvate and acetate residues varies according to the bacterial strain, the fermentation process, the conditions after fermentation and the purification steps. These groups may be neutralized in commercial products with Na+, K+or Ca2+ions (Satia company, 1986) . The neutralized form may be converted into the acid form by ion exchange or by dialysis of an acidic solution.

Xanthan gums have a molecular weight of between 1 000 000 and 50 000 000 and a viscosity of between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa. s for an aqueous composition containing 1%of xanthan gum (measured at 25℃ on a Brookfield viscometer of LVT type at 60 rpm) .

Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Rhodicare by the company Rhodia Chimie, under the name Satiaxane ^TM by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries) , under the name Novaxan ^TM by the company ADM, and under the names

and

by the company CP-Kelco.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the at least one hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from the group consisting of modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, polysaccharides produced by microorganisms, or a mixture thereof. More preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from the group consisting of poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) , xanthan gum, or a mixture thereof.

According to the invention, the at least one hydrophilic gelling agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01%to 2%by weight, preferably from 0.05%to 1%by weight, more preferably from 0.1%to 0.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(c) Ferment obtained from Sphingomonas hydrophobicum

The composition of the present invention comprises at least one ferment obtained from Sphingomonas hydrophobicum.

Sphingomonas was defined in 1990 as a group of Gram-negative, rod-shaped, chemoheterotrophic, strictly aerobic bacteria. They possess ubiquinone 10 as their major respiratory quinone, contain glycosphingolipids (GSLs) , specifically ceramide instead of lipopolysaccharide (LPS) in their cell envelopes, and typically produce yellow-pigmented colonies.

By 2001, the genus included more than 20 species that were quite diverse in terms of their phylogenetic, ecological, and physiological properties. As a result, Sphingomonas was subdivided into different genera: Sphingomonas, Sphingobium, Novosphingobium, Sphingosinicella, and Sphingopyxis. These genera are commonly referred to collectively as sphingomonads. The sphingomonads are widely distributed in nature, having been isolated from many different land and water habitats, as well as from plant root systems, clinical specimens, and other sources; this is due to their ability to survive in low concentrations of nutrients, as well as to metabolize a wide variety of carbon sources. Numerous strains have been isolated from environments contaminated with toxic compounds, where they display the ability to use the contaminants as nutrients.

Some of the Sphingomonads (especially Sphingomonas paucimobilis) also play a role in human disease, primarily by causing a range of mostly nosocomial, non-life-threatening infections that typically are easily treated by antibiotic therapy.

According to the present invention, Sphingomonas ferment extract is the extract of the product obtained by the fermentation of Sphingomonas. It is known to contain glycosphingolipids (GSLs) such as seramide, dihydrosphingosine, and glucuronic acid, and is popular for its reduction of lipid peroxidation and functioning of the key biomarkers of senescence, thus preventing the skin aging. Moreover, the inventors found that when formulating together with other anti-aging actives, such as lysate of microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species, the combination significantly promoted nidogen expression, indicating the anti-ageing potential of the combination.

Mentions may be made of this type of active ingredient, such as the one sold under the trade name

by the company Greentech.

According to the present invention, the ferment obtained from Sphingomonas hydrophobicum presents in the composition with an amount ranging from 0.001%to 2%by weight, preferably from 0.001%to 1.5%by weight, more preferably from 0.005%to 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(d) Oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester (s)

According to one aspect of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester.

The oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester may include from about 1 to about 200, preferably from about 10 to about 100, more preferably from about 15 to about 50, moles of an oxyalkylenated group, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester has about 1 to about 200, preferably from about 10 to about 100, more preferably from about 15 to about 50 moles of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, or mixtures thereof, including all ranges and subranges there between.

Preferably, the oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester has about 1 to about 200, preferably from about 10 to about 100, more preferably from about 15 to about 50 moles of ethylene oxide, including all ranges and subranges there between.

The sugar fatty acid ester may be an ester of various types of fatty acids and of sugars, as far as the ester is cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable. As used herein, “cosmetically acceptable” or “dermatologically acceptable” is intended to mean that a composition is suitable for use in contact with human tissues such as keratinous materials and mucous membranes without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, and/or allergic response.

The sugar fatty ester is preferably a mono-or di-ester of a sugar. "Sugar, " as used herein, is intended to include oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compounds that possess several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and having at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

As suitable sugars, non-limiting examples include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, for example alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose. Preferably, the sugar is glucose or its alkylated derivative such as an alkylglucose. As used herein, (alkyl) glucose is intended to include glucose, an alkylglucose, and a mixture of glucose and an alkylglucose.

The esters of sugars and of fatty acids are preferably chosen from the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆-C ₃₀, such as C ₁₂-C ₂₂, fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can have one to three, conjugated or unconjugated, carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri-and tetra-esters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

These esters can be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as the oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate mixed esters.

For example, in the present invention, the mono-and di-esters may be used. Preferably sugar fatty acid esters may include the mono-or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, of glucose, or of methylglucose.

The oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid esters that may preferably be used in the present invention include, for example, oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and methylglucose, such as a polyethylene glycol ether of a diester of methylglucose and stearic acid containing about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) , a polyethylene glycol ether of a mixture of the monoester and diester of methyl glucose and stearic acid containing about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, such as

SSE-20 sold by Lubrizol) . These oxyalkylenated ethers may be used alone or in combination.

According to one preferable aspect of the present invention, the oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester is an ethoxylated (alkyl) glucose fatty acid ester. Among ethoxylated (alkyl) glucose fatty acid esters, an ethoxylated (alkyl) glucose stearate, in particular, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate is preferred.

The amount of the oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester is preferably from 0.001%to 2%by weight, preferably from 0.001%to 1%by weight, more preferably from 0.05%to 0.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the mascara composition.

(e) Aqueous phase

The composition of the present invention may comprise at least one continuous aqueous phase.

According to an embodiment, the aqueous phase includes water, as the case may be, in a mixture with water-soluble additives and/or solvents.

The aqueous phase may also comprise organic solvents miscible with water (at room temperature-25℃) such as for example monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols notably having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylylglycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (notably having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di-or tri-propylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ethers, mono-, di-or tri-ethylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ethers and mixtures thereof.

According to an embodiment, the aqueous phase of the compositions of the present invention comprises a polyol notably glycerol, caprylylglycol or propylene glycol, and a monoalcohol, notably ethanol.

Preferably, the aqueous phase may contain additional active ingredient for anti-ageing. Mentions may be made of microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium species.

According to one embodiment of the present ivnention, the microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium species employed as active agents according to the invention are used in the form of a lysate.

A lysate commonly denotes a material obtained at the end of the destruction or dissolution of biological cells by means of a phenomenon termed cell lysis, thus causing release of the intracellular biological constituents naturally contained in the cells of the microorganism under consideration.

For the purpose of the present invention, the term "lysate" is used without distinction to denote the entire lysate obtained by lysis of the microorganism concerned, or only a fraction thereof.

Thus, the invention relates to the use of a lysate of Bifidobacterium species and/or a fraction thereof.

The lysate used is therefore entirely or partly formed from the intracellular biological constituents and from the constituents of the cell walls and membranes.

More specifically, it contains the cytoplasmic cell fraction containing the enzymes such as lactic acid dehydrogenase, phosphatases, phosphoketolases and transaldolases, and the metabolites. By way of illustration, the cell wall constituents are in particular peptidoglycan, murein or mucopeptide and teichoic acid, and the cell membrane constituents are composed of glycerophospholipid.

This cell lysis may be accomplished by means of various technologies, such as, for example, osmotic shock, heat shock, by ultrasound, or else under mechanical stress of the centrifugation type.

More particularly, this lysate can be obtained according to the technology described in patent US 4,464,362, and in particular according to the following protocol.

A microorganism of Bifidobacterium species type under consideration is cultured anaerobically in a suitable culture medium, for example according to the conditions described in documents US 4,464,362 and EP 0 043 128. When the stationary phase of development has been reached, the culture medium can be inactivated by pasteurization, for example at a temperature of from 60 to 65℃ for 30 min. The microorganisms are then recovered by means of a conventional separation technique, for example membrane filtration, centrifuged, and resuspended in a sterile solution of NaCl at a physiological concentration. The lysate can be obtained by disintegration of such a medium with ultrasound, in order to release therefrom the cytoplasmic fractions, the cell wal fragments and the metabolism-derived products. Next, all the components in their natural distribution are subsequently stabilized in a weakly acidic aqueous solution.

A lysate having a concentration of the order of from 0.1%to 50%, in particular from 1%to 20%, and especially approximately 10%by weight of active material (s) , relative to the total weight thereof, is thus generally obtained.

The lysate may be used in various forms, in the form of a solution or in pulverulent form. A microorganism most particularly suitable for the invention, belongs to the genus Bifidobacterium species chosen from the species: Bifidobacterium longum, Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium breve, Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium lactis, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium adolescentis or Bifidobacterium pseudocatenulatum, and mixtures thereof.

The species Bifidobacterium longum is most particularly suitable for the invention.

The lysate may advantageously be the lysate registered under the INCI name: Bifidat ferment Lysate, under the EINECS name: Bifidobacterium longum, under EINECS No.: 306-168-4 and under CAS No.: 96507-89-0.

The product sold under the name Repair Complex

by the company K. Richter GmbH and which is formed from an inactivated lysate of the species Bifidobacterium longum, falls within the context of the invention.

The amount of aqueous phase may range, for example, from 70%to 99%by weight, preferably from 75%to 99%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase may also contain other additives such as water-soluble active ingredients, preservatives, salts, fillers, water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers, water-soluble dyes, and so on.

(f) Oily phase

A composition according to the present invention comprises at least one dispersed oily phase, in addition to the oils described here above.

The amount of oily phase may range, for example, from 1%to 30%by weight, preferably from 1%to 10%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

(g) Galenic form

Advantageously, the composition of the present invention is a cosmetic composition for caring for keratin materials, and may be in form of serum, lotion, toner, cream, or spray. Preferably, the composition of the present invention is in form of a serum.

The composition of the present invention is stable over time.

“Stable over time” is understood to mean compositions of the present invention which, after storage at all temperatures between 4℃ and 45℃ for 2 months, do not exhibit any macroscopic change in colour, smell or viscosity, any variation in pH or any variation in microscopic appearance.

(h) Method and use

The composition of the present invention can be used for a cosmetic process, such as a cosmetic process or method, for caring for the keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face and the lips, by being applied to the skin, especially the face.

The present invention also relates to a use of the composition according to the present invention, for caring for the skin, especially for the face.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, comprising the application, to the keratin material, of at least one composition of the present invention, wherein the keratin material is preferably the skin, in particular the face.

The examples that follow are aimed at illustrating the compositions and processes according to the present invention, but are not in any way a limitation of the scope of the present invention.

EXAMPLES

Preparation and evaluation of Invention and comparative formulas

The invention formulas A-A5, and the comparative formulas B-D were formulated, and were evaluated with the Turbidmat and Rheomat 180 viscometer, and Turbidimeter from the company Hach, respectively, under 25℃.

The formulas and the results were given in tables 1 and 2.

Table 1: Invention formula A and comparative formulas B-D

Table 2: Invention formula A1-A5

It was seen from the two tables above, that invention formula A presents a pleasant translucent appearance, and a good texture, whereas the comparative formulas B to D all have deficiencies in either the appearance, or the texture. Besides, among all the invention formulas A1-A5, invention formula A1, as one particular embodiment, showed superior texture and appearance, comparing to the other formulas.

Claims

A composition for caring for keratin materials, comprising:

(a) less than or equal to 3%by weight of at least one oil, relative to the total weight of the composition;

(b) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;

(c) ferment obtained from Sphingomonas hydrophobicum; and

(d) at least one oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester.
Composition of claim 1, wherein the at least: one oil is selected from the group consisting of non-volatile non phenyl silicone oil, non-volatile hydrocarbonated polar oil, or a mixture thereof; more preferably, the oil is seected from a group consisting of non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes, esters of citric acid corresponding to the formula (II’) :

in which R ₁, R ₂ and R ₃, which are identical or different, each represent H or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C ₁-C ₃₀ alkyl chain,

wherein at least one of R ₁, R ₂ and R ₃ is different from H, and

R ₄ represents H or a group R′ ₄-CO-, in which R′ ₄ represents a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C ₁-C ₈ alkyl group, or a mixture thereof.
Composition of the claim 1 or 2, wherein the oil is selected from the group consisting of poly dimethylsiloxane with a viscosity of 100 cSt, acetyl tributyl citrate, or a mixture thereof.
Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the oil (a) is present in an amount ranging from 0.001%to 2.5%by weight, more preferably from 0.01%to 2%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 4, wherein the at least one hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from the group consisting of modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, polysaccharides produced by microorganisms, or a mixture thereof; more preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from the group consisting of poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) , xanthan gum, or a mixture thereof.
Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 5, wherein the at least one hydrophilic gelling agent is present in an amount ranging from. 01%to 2%by weight, preferably from 0.05%to 1%by weight, more preferably from 0.1%to 0.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 6, wherein the ferment obtained from Sphingomonas hydrophobicum presents in the composition with an amount ranging from 0.001%to 2%by weight, preferably from 0.001%to 1.5%by weight, more preferably from 0.005%to 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 7, wherein the oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid esters is selected from the group consisting of oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and methylglucose, a polyethylene glycol ether of a mixture of the monoester and diester of methyl glucose and stearic acid containing about 20 moles of ethylene oxide, or a mixture thereof; more preferably the oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester is an ethoxylated (alkyl) glucose fatty acid ester; even more preferably is PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate.
Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 8, wherein oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester is preferably from 0.001%to 2%by weight, preferably from 0.001%to 1%by weight, more preferably from 0.05%to 0.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the mascara composition.
Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 9, further comprises at least one microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium species.
Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 10, wherein the microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium species is present in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 50%, in particular from 1%to 20%by weight of active material (s) , relative to the total weight of the composition.
Method for caring for the keratin materials, comprising the step of application to the keratin materials the composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 11.
Use of a composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 11, for caring for, in particular treating the skin-ageing.