US1664891A - Beaded welting and method of making the same - Google Patents

Description

April 3, 1928. 1,664,891

H. LYON BEADED WELTING AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed March 12. 1927 Fly-1 27 K Patented Apr. 3, 1928.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

HARRY LYON, F HOLBROOK, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO PERLEY E. BARBOUR, 0F QUINCY, MASSACHUSETTS, DOING BUSTNESS AS BARBOUB WELTING COMPANY, OF

BROCKTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

BEADED WELTING AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME.

Application filed March 12, 1927. Serial No. 174,785.

This invention relates to welting for boots and shoes and more particularly to that type of welting for xoodyear welt shoes having a longitudinal bead upstandin from its upper or exposed face.

%t is highly desirable that the strength of the material at the inner margin of Goodyear welting be preserved to the fullest extent because of the weakening caused by the successive, closely spaced piercings by the awl of the welt sewing machine and of the severe strains upon the inseam during the wear of the shoe. It is-also desirable for fine shoemaking that the thickness of the welt along the line of the inseam be not increased by the addition at this point of material to provide the bead since th1s makes the welt more diflicult to handle, and more diflicult for the stitch-forming mecha- :nism to draw it tightly into the angle below the feather oi the insole. For the same reason it is desirable to remove the inner, upper corner oi the welt strip by a bevel out just inside the line of the inseam. Finally, in order that the bead will efiectively act as a water resisting dam, as was the object of the early types of beaded welting known as cork-sole welts, the bead covering and surface of the outer exposed margin of the welt body must be integral so as to seal the line of joinder between the bead and the body of the welt which leads to the inseam. The object of the present invention is to produce a beaded welting for boots and shoes having all of the advantages 111st described.

To the accomplishment of this object the invention consists in beaded welting having the constructional features illustrated by the accompanying drawings and to the method of making the same, as defined by the appended claims.

In the drawing, Figure 1 is a perspective view of a portion of a grooved and beveled welt strip that is somewhat wider than the strip used for regular Goodyear welting of the same finished size;

Figs. 2 and 3 are views similar to Fig. 1 showing two further steps in the manufacture of the novel beaded welting;

Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the small strip removed from the flesh at the outer edge of the welt strip illustrating how it may be cut or trimmed, if desired, to proprocesses but the strip is somewhat wider for the finished size desired than is required for regular Goodyear welting. The strip is then slit inward from its outer or unbeveled edge, the plane of the incision being parallel to the plane of the upper face, to

produce a relatively thin flap 16. The location of the inseam is indicated by the dotted lines 17 on Fig. 2. It will be observed that the slit at its inner edge does not encroach on the stock of the inner margin through which the inseam is sewed, thus preserving the full strength of the stock to receive the awl piercings and to resist the heavy strains on the inseam during wear of the shoe (see also Fig. 6). While slitting to produce the flap 16, or by a second cutting operation, a small strip 18 (Fig. 4) is severed from the flesh, when grain leather is used as is preferable, at the outer edge of the welt body 20 the width of the portion removed being such that the remaining width of the body portion (Fig. 3) equals the width desired for the finished welt after heading. The small strip 18 may conveniently be cut, as indicated by dotted lines on Fig. l, to the dimensions required for the core that forms the head, or other suitable material may be used for this purpose. The flap 16 is lifted, the bead-forming core strip 22 (Fig. 5) is positioned in the angle at the inner end of the slit and the flap 16 is replaced forming a grain covered head 24; and outer margin 26 on the body 20. The flap 16 may be secured inplace in any adequate manner, as by a water-proof cement, and the bead preferably is finally shaped by moulding to a rounded contour at the inner side, but preserving a vertical wall at the outer side, as shown by Fig. 6.

it will be observed that even with the formation of the bevel 14, which permits the Welt to be drawn snugly into position, the inseam 28 is sewed through the entire original thickness of the stock which is left un-' weakened because the slitting of the flap 16 is from the outer edge of the strip thus poi initting the incision to be stopped short of the line of the inseam. The outer margin of the iiap is held securely in place by the outsoam 30. In addition to this important advantage a bead produced, as described herein has a finished covering and provides a true water resisting dam.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated, and its referred embodiment having been specifica ly described, what is claimed as new is:

l. Beaded welting for boots and shoes out to provide a -stitch-rceeivmg groove in its" lower face as for Goodyear Welting, and having a flap at its upper face formed by an incision from the outer edge of the welt strip inward of such a width as to leave the inner edge of the flap integral with the welt body along a longitudinal line that is outward of the inseam stitch line, and a solid core strip beneath and covered by said flap to form a longitudinal, upstanding bead, whereby full-strength integral stock from said head to the inner edge of the welt strip is preserved for receiving the inseam stitches.

2. The method of making beaded Welting which includes the steps of producing a welt strip of the desired thickness than the finished \velting, grooving said strip at its inner margin as for Goodyear welting, sliting a relatively thin layer from its upper face by an incision from the outer edge of the strip inward, said incision terminating along a line outward oi the area at the inner margin to be penetrated by the inseam stitches, lifting said layer and placing a core strip in the angle at the base of said incision, reducing the Welting to final Width by severing a strip from the outer edge of the welt body below said layer of such width that said layer will provide a continuous surfacing for the core strip and. the entire margin of the Welt body outward of the core strip, and securing said flap over the core strip and to said outward margin of the welt body.

HARRY LYON.

that is wider

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