US2219947A - Welting - Google Patents

Description

Oct. 29, 1940. C Z 2,219,947

WELTING Filed June 8, 1940 Patented Oct. 29, 1940 UNITED STATES WELTING William C. Vizard, Brockton, Masa, assignor to Barbour welting Company, Brockton, Mass., a

co-partnership Application June 8, 1940, Serial No. 339,501

8 Claims.

This invention relates to the manufacture of shoe welting and more especially to two unit welting of the type adapted to give a heavy edge" effect to the shoe in which it is used.

Two unit welting, of the general type to which the invention relates, is used in shoes, especially Goodyear welt shoes having a single outer sole, to simulate the appearance and to obtain many of the advantages of shoes wherein the heavy edge effect is obtained through the use of midsoles. In the manufacture of two unit welting two fillets or units of welting leather are cemented together, one on top of the other, the inner marginal or sewing edge of the welting thus formed being reduced in thickness so that it may have a suitable size and degree of flexibility to enable it to be tightly sewed in an inseam. In order that both units of the welting may be anchored in the inseam, as well as to form an inwardly facing shoulder on the top unit which may fit against the upper of a shoe so that the latter may have the appearance of a double soled shoe, the preferred practice heretofore has been to undercut the top unit at its inner marginal edge to form an internal shoulder and a fiap, the fiap being folded or pressed downwardly to be laid against the shoulder and the inner margin of the bottom unit, the insteam stitches passing through the flap and the inner margin of the bottom unit when the welting is assembled in a shoe.

I have found that with types of welt constructions such as that described above it is generally impossible to fit the shoulders against the uppers of shoes so as to prevent the welts from gaping or having the appearance of gaping from the uppers. This gaping efiect is due to the fact that the upper surface of the top unit, as well as the flap, is generally of grain leatherand it is impossible to fold the flaps downwardly without leaving a rounded upper comer on the shoulder which rounded corner cannot be fitted tightly aaginst the upper. One of the more general objects of the present invention is to bring about a form of two unit welting wherein both units may be tightly sewed in an inseam and wherein a shoulder is formed on the inner margin of the top unit which shoulder, including the upper corner thereof, may befitted tightlyagainst the upper of a shoe. Y

A feature of the invention resides in a formof two unit welting wherein the top unit is provided with a relatively thin inseam edge joined to the unit at an inwardly facing flesh shoulder having a full upper corner which may be fitted tightly against the upper of a shoe and one of the further objects of the invention is to bring about a method of, manufacture of such welting wherein the same may be made from a minimum amount of stock.

To these and other ends the invention resides in the novel features and combinations of parts to be more fully described hereinafter.

In the drawing,

Figure 1 is a perspective view illustrative of the bottom unit of the two unit welting of the invention in its preferred form;

Figure 2 is a perspective view illustrative of the improved welting during an intermediate stage in the construction thereof;

Figure 3 is a perspective view showing the improved welting in completed form ready for use in the manufacture of shoes, and

Figure 4 is a perspective view of a shoe partly in section and showing the improved welting embodied therein.

In the preferred embodiment of the invention illustrated in the drawing, the bottom unit is shown in Figure 1 ready for assembly with the top unit and those skilled in the art will recognize, that as shown the bottom unit Ill takes theiform, of a standard strand of Goodyear welting wherein 1 the inner margin or sewing edge is beveled as at, H, the under or flesh side being grooved at l2; for the inseam stitches. Except for its'beveled' edge H and the groove l2 the unit I0 is of urn: form thickness from edge to edge and has a width depending on and determining the width of the.

finished strand of two unit welting to be made therefrom.

The upper face l3 of the unit I!) will vary in width'in accordance with the amount of extension desired in the finished shoe and determines the width of the top unit l4 which normally should have a suflicient width to extend from the upper comer 1'5 of the bevel II to the outer marginal edge It of the'bottom unit. The top unit I4 is formed from a plain square edged fillet having usually an'upper grain face l1 and a lower fiesh face l8, the latter being bonded'by cement or the like to the upper face l3 of the bottom unit [0. i

In accordance with the invention an incision I9 is formed in the upper face ll of the unit I4 closely adjacent the inner marginal-edge '20 of said unit, the cut forming the incision extend:

ing longitudinally of the unit and downwardly at a slight angle towards the inner marginal edge thereofand terminating just above the bottom face IS. The incision l9 forms an inseam lip' 2| which, it will be observed, is somewhat thicker at its upper end than where it joins the unit I4.

The inseam lip may be formed either before or after assembly and cementing of the top unit on the bottom unit, in either case care being taken to lay the top unit on the upper face I3 of the bottom unit with the outer marginal edges of the units flush, the inner marginal edge of the top unit being flush with the corner I5 of the bevel II in which condition the welting is ready for laying of the inseam lip and is shown more particularly in Figure 2 of the drawing.

The welting is brought into completed condition, as shown in Figure 3, by pressing the inseam lip 2| downwardly and outwardly into contact with the bevel I I of the bottom unit, the bevel I I and the marginal edge 20 of the lip having first been coated with cement or the like. This operation may be accomplished by rollers or suitably shaped molds, the relatively thin portion of the lip 2|, where the latter joins the unit I4, acting as a hinge about which the lip as a whole is swung to be laid against the bevel I I. It will be observed that when the lip H is brought into final position, its end 22 is flush with the inner marginal edge 23 of the bottom unit. Preferably a bevel 24 is formed on the inner marginal or sewing edge of the lip 2I which bevel may be formed by crushing the edge of the lip downwardly into beveled condition as the lip is laid on the inner margin or bevel of the bottom unit or the bevel 24 may be formed thereafter by cutting away the edge of the welting at this point. The use of a bevel on the sewing edge of the finished welting will enable the latter to be fitted against the lip 25 of an inner sole (Figure 4) in the usual manner of Goodyear welting.

As described above, the width of the fillet from which the top unit of the welting is formed will vary in accordance with the amount of extension desired in the finished shoe. In the case of welting the top unit will normally have a width of the inseam lip 2I having a width of at its upper edge, the cut forming the lip extending downwardly and outwardly to a point A from the bottom face of the unit and A from its inner marginal edge. The height of the lip before folding thereof will, of course, vary with the thickness of the stock used but in any case, if both bottom and top units are made of stock having the same thickness, the lip when formed as above described will be of sumcient length to be capable of being pressed outwardly on to the bevel of the bottom unit to the marginal edge of the latter.

In Figure 4 of the drawing the two unit welting Inasmuch as the two units are bonded together the welting may be handled as one piece by the welt'sewing machine operator. The bevel 24 enables the sewing edge of the welting to be fitted into the corner at the lip 25 of the inner sole 26 and, since the inseam lip 2I is relatively thin, the inner margin of the welting may be bent in usual manner by the operator or otherwise forced into a tight fit in said corner, the inseam stitches 21 passing through both units, thus anchoring them together in the inseam and drawing the shoulder 28 at the inner side of the top unit tightly against the upper 29. No difllculty will beexperienced in obtaining a tight fit between the shoulder 28 and the upper 2! inasmuch as the shoulder 28 presents a flesh face to the upper, the soft loose fibers of which may be compressed against and welting are rimmed in usual manner, the bottom of the shoe filled and the outer sole 30 laid, the

outseam stitches 3| serving to further secure the units of the welting together while attaching the outer sole thereto.

Those skilled in the art will readily vary the dimensions of the top and bottom units to suit the particular needs of a manufacturer. In any (a case a minimum amount of stock may be used as there is no waste of material in either unit, the method of forming the top unit not only leaving a flesh shoulder having the advantages described above but providing an inseam sewing lip thereon from a relatively narrow fillet of stock.

While a preferred embodiment of the invention is described herein in detail so that those skilled in the art may fully understand the nature of the same it will be understood that the invention is capable of variation and modification and is only to be limited by the scope of the appended claims.

What I claim is:

1'. Two unit welting comprising a bottom unit and a top unit, the top unit having an inwardly facing flesh shoulder at the inner edge of the welt extension and a flap joined to said top unit at the bottom of the shoulder and applied to the inner margin of the bottom unit.

2. Two unit welting comprising a bottom unit and a top unit, the top unit having a longitudinal incision in its upper face adjacent the inner margin thereof, the flap formed by the incision at the inner margin of the top unit being folded downwardly and applied to the inner margin of the bottom unit.

3. Two unit welting comprising a bottom unit and a top unit, the inner marginal edge of the bottom unit being beveled, the top unit having an inwardly facing flesh shoulder forming the inner edge of the welt extension and a flap joined to said top unit at the bottom of the shoulder and applied to the beveled inner margin of the bottom unit.

4. Two unit welting comprising a bottom unit having a stitch-receiving groove and a top unit having an inwardly facing flesh shoulder above the groove and an integral flap joined thereto at the bottom of the shoulder and secured to the inner margin of the bottom unit.

5. Two unit welting comprising a bottom unit having a stitch-receiving groove in its bottom face and a beveled inner marginal edge and a top unit having an inwardly facing flesh shoulder above the groove and an integral flap joined thereto at the bottom of the shoulder and secured to the inner beveled marginal edge of the bottom unit.

6. .The method of making two unit welting which comprises forming a bottom unit strip having a stitch receiving groove at its inner margin at its under side, forming a top unit of less width than the bottom unit and having a longitudinal incision adjacent its inner margin forming an upstanding lip, superposing said units with their outer edges flush and folding the lip down into contact with the margin of the bottom at the in-, ner edge thereof.

7. The method of forming two unit leather welting which comprises forming a bottom unit strip, forming a top unit strip of initially less width than the bottom unit strip and having a longitudinal incision adjacent its inner margin, the cut forming the incision extending downwardly and outwardly towards the inner bottom edge of said top unit, superposing the units with their outer edges flush and folding the lip formed at the inner margin of the top unit by the incision downwardly and outwardly into contact with the inner margin of the bottom unit.

8. The method according to claim '7 in which a bevel is formed on the inner margin of the bottom unit and the lip of the top unit is folded downwardly and outwardly into contact with the bevel.

WILLIAM C. VIZARD.

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