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JPH04241176A - Method for dyeing to worn-out tone - Google Patents

Method for dyeing to worn-out tone

Info

Publication number
JPH04241176A
JPH04241176A JP3017052A JP1705291A JPH04241176A JP H04241176 A JPH04241176 A JP H04241176A JP 3017052 A JP3017052 A JP 3017052A JP 1705291 A JP1705291 A JP 1705291A JP H04241176 A JPH04241176 A JP H04241176A
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
dyeing
dye
worn
water
washed
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
JP3017052A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
Tsudoi Takehira
竹平 集
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Kanebo Ltd
Original Assignee
Kanebo Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Kanebo Ltd filed Critical Kanebo Ltd
Priority to JP3017052A priority Critical patent/JPH04241176A/en
Publication of JPH04241176A publication Critical patent/JPH04241176A/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Abstract

PURPOSE:To impart the feeling of a worn-out old coat by subjecting a textile structure having surface unevenness to water-repelling treatment, raising treatment and dyeing. CONSTITUTION:A fluorine-based water-repellent is applied to a textile structure having unevenness on the fiber surface by padding method, etc., and the structure is subjected to dry-heating, heat-treatment, raising and dyeing to dye the protruded parts while preventing the dyeing of the recesses protected with the water-repellent. Accordingly, the obtained dyed structure has excellent worn-out gray feeling. The process enables easy and uniform production of dyed materials having various colors.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】[Detailed description of the invention]

【0001】0001

【産業上の利用分野】本発明は凹凸のある繊維構造物の
洗いざらし調染色方法に関し、更に詳細には染色前に前
処理することにより洗いざらし、あるいは着古した感じ
を現出させ、かつ堅牢性にも優れる凹凸のある繊維構造
物の洗いざらし調染色方法に関するものである。
[Industrial Application Field] The present invention relates to a method for dyeing textured fiber structures to give them a washed-out effect, and more particularly, the present invention relates to a method for dyeing textured fiber structures to give them a washed-out look, and more specifically, to make them look washed-out or worn-out by pre-treating them before dyeing, and to improve their fastness. The present invention relates to a method for dyeing a textured fiber structure with excellent texture.

【0002】0002

【従来の技術】通常、染色物は繰り返し洗濯に対して変
褪色が少ない事、即ち洗いざらされない様に堅牢に染色
されていることが望まれている。しかしながら最近の若
者によるファッションの流行に於いては例えばブルーデ
ニムの如く、洗いざらした感じ、あるいは着古した感じ
が好まれている。特にブリーチアウトデニムなどと呼称
されているカジュアルパンツはインジゴ染料にて染色さ
れた綾織物あるいはその縫製品を漂白剤を使用し脱色さ
れたものである。さらにインジゴ染料のブルーのみでな
く種々の色相のカラーデニムに対しても洗いざらした、
即ちブリーチアウトした感じの商品が好まれる傾向が大
となってきている。
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Usually, it is desired that dyed articles undergo little discoloration or fading even after repeated washing, that is, be dyed so that they are durable and do not wash out. However, in recent fashion trends among young people, clothes with a washed-out or worn-out look, such as blue denim, are preferred. In particular, casual pants called bleached-out denim are made of twill fabric dyed with indigo dye or sewn from the same, and bleached using a bleaching agent. Furthermore, not only the blue of indigo dye but also various hues of colored denim are washed out.
In other words, there is a growing tendency to prefer products that have a bleached-out appearance.

【0003】この様な要望に対して従来は反応性染料で
染色後、塩素晒をしたり、あるいはバット染料で染色後
、塩素晒をしたりしているが、それぞれ欠陥がある。 即ち前者は一般に反応性染料の塩素堅牢度が不良のため
、染色布の濃度コントロールが困難であり、後者は塩素
堅牢度が良好すぎてブリーチアウトした感じが出にくい
。いずれの場合も漂白工程がウインス等のバッチ方式で
あり長時間を要したり、漂白剤を使用して脱色するため
に漂白されずに残った染料さえも漂白剤により影響をう
け、堅牢度が低下する。又、漂白剤として次亜塩素酸ソ
ーダ等を使用するために臭気の問題で作業性が悪い等の
欠点がある。
[0003] Conventionally, in order to meet such demands, dyeing with a reactive dye and then bleaching with chlorine, or dyeing with a vat dye and then bleaching with chlorine have been carried out, but each method has its own drawbacks. That is, the former generally has poor chlorine fastness of the reactive dye, making it difficult to control the concentration of the dyed fabric, while the latter has so good chlorine fastness that it is difficult to get a bleached-out feeling. In either case, the bleaching process is a batch method such as a wince, which takes a long time, and even the dye that remains unbleached is affected by the bleaching agent, resulting in poor fastness. descend. Furthermore, since sodium hypochlorite or the like is used as a bleaching agent, there are drawbacks such as odor problems and poor workability.

【0004】またその他の方法としてブリーチアウト風
仕上には布の組織の山部分のみ、即ち表面のみをグラビ
アロール等を用いて染色する方法あるいは染料付与後水
通しを行った後に染料を固着する方法などがあるが、再
現性に問題がある。
[0004] Other methods for achieving a bleach-out finish include dyeing only the ridges of the texture of the cloth, that is, only the surface, using a gravure roll, or applying the dye, passing water through it, and then fixing the dye. etc., but there are problems with reproducibility.

【0005】これらの問題点を解決するために特開昭5
9−163491号公報にはセルロース系繊維の白布ま
たは染色布に、水不溶性でかつ還元されリューコ化合物
となって溶解し染着する染料,アルカリ剤,スルフィン
系還元剤およびアルカリ性で還元性を有する無機金属化
合物を含む染料液をパッドし、乾燥することなくスチー
ム処理することにより洗いざらし感を有する染色布を得
る方法が提案されているが、バット染料,硫化染料,硫
化バット染料等しか使用できないため色相が限定される
ことや、バット染料等が還元剤により分解されるために
徐々に染料濃度が降下し、テーリングが発生するという
問題がある。
[0005] In order to solve these problems, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 5
Publication No. 9-163491 describes dyes that are water-insoluble and can be reduced to dissolve and dye into leuco compounds, alkaline agents, sulfinic reducing agents, and alkaline and reducing inorganic materials. A method has been proposed in which a dye solution containing a metal compound is padded and steam-treated without drying to obtain a dyed cloth with a washed-out feel, but since only vat dyes, sulfur dyes, sulfur vat dyes, etc. can be used, the hue is There are problems in that the vat dye and the like are decomposed by the reducing agent, so that the dye concentration gradually decreases and tailing occurs.

【0006】[0006]

【発明が解決しようとする課題】本発明は、凹凸のある
繊維構造物に対して自然な感じの着古した洗いざらした
外観を付与する場合における上記のような問題を解決す
ることを課題とするものである。すなわち、本発明にお
いては、凹凸のある繊維構造物に対して簡単かつ均一に
自然な感じの着古した洗いざらし感を付与でき、また種
々の色相を可能にする染色方法を提供するものである。
[Problems to be Solved by the Invention] An object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems in imparting a natural, worn, washed-out appearance to a fiber structure with uneven surfaces. It is. That is, the present invention provides a dyeing method that can easily and uniformly impart a natural, worn-out, washed-out feel to an uneven fiber structure, and also allows for various hues.

【0007】[0007]

【課題を解決するための手段】上述の目的は、表面に凹
凸を有する繊維構造物に、撥水剤を含む加工液を付与し
た後、起毛し、次いで染色することを特徴とする凹凸の
ある繊維構造物の洗いざらし調染色方法により達成され
る。
[Means for Solving the Problems] The above-mentioned object is to provide a fiber structure having an uneven surface, which is characterized by applying a processing liquid containing a water repellent to a fiber structure having an uneven surface, raising it, and then dyeing it. This is achieved by a washed-out dyeing method for textile structures.

【0008】以下本発明を詳細に説明する。The present invention will be explained in detail below.

【0009】本発明でいう凹凸のある繊維構造物とは平
織物,綾織物等の組織や使用糸の太さの差によって表面
に凹凸を現出させた織編物や、エンボス加工等の機械的
方法で凹凸を形成させた不織布等が挙げられ、これらの
繊維構造物を構成する繊維としては特に限定されない。
In the present invention, the textured fiber structure refers to woven or knitted fabrics that have unevenness on the surface due to differences in texture such as plain woven fabrics or twill woven fabrics or the thickness of the threads used, or mechanically woven fabrics such as embossing. Examples include nonwoven fabrics having irregularities formed by a method, and the fibers constituting these fiber structures are not particularly limited.

【0010】本発明に使用される撥水剤としては弗素樹
脂系,シリコーン樹脂系,パラフィン系,ジルコニウム
系撥水剤等一般的な撥水剤が使用出来る。そして撥水剤
の使用量は撥水剤の種類と繊維の種類、及び洗いざらし
感に応じて適宜に選択する。
[0010] As the water repellent used in the present invention, general water repellents such as fluororesin-based, silicone resin-based, paraffin-based, and zirconium-based water repellents can be used. The amount of water repellent to be used is appropriately selected depending on the type of water repellent, the type of fiber, and the feeling of washing.

【0011】本発明における起毛としては針布針による
起毛を行なってもよいし、エメリペーパー,サンドクロ
ス等による起毛でもよく、これ等を併用してもよい。そ
して起毛の程度は繊維構造物の種類,組織及び洗いざら
し感に応じて適宜に選択する。
The raising in the present invention may be carried out using a cloth needle, emery paper, sand cloth, etc., or these may be used in combination. The degree of napping is appropriately selected depending on the type, texture, and washed-out feel of the fiber structure.

【0012】次に本発明の処理方法を説明する。上記の
如き表面に凹凸を有する繊維構造物は、その構成素材に
応じて、セルロース系繊維を含有する織物では毛焼,糊
抜,精練,漂白,シルケット,ヒートセット等の前処理
工程が、合成繊維を含有する加工糸織物ではリラックス
,糊抜,精練,プリセット等の前処理工程が、合成繊維
フィラメント織物では糊抜,精練,プリセット,アルカ
リ減量等の前処理工程が、絹を含有する織物では糊抜,
精練,漂白等の前処理工程が、羊毛を含有する織物では
精練,煮絨,漂白等の前処理工程が行なわれる。
Next, the processing method of the present invention will be explained. The above-mentioned fiber structures with uneven surfaces may require pretreatment processes such as sintering, desizing, scouring, bleaching, mercerization, and heat setting for textiles containing cellulose fibers, depending on their constituent materials. Processed yarn fabrics containing fibers undergo pretreatment processes such as relaxing, desizing, scouring, and presetting; synthetic fiber filament fabrics undergo pretreatment processes such as desizing, scouring, presetting, and alkali reduction; and fabrics containing silk undergo pretreatment processes such as desizing, scouring, presetting, and alkali reduction. Glue removal,
Pre-treatment steps such as scouring and bleaching are performed on textiles containing wool.

【0013】次いで、上記加工液を繊維構造物に付与す
る。加工液を付与する方法としてはパッディング法,ス
プレー法,コーティング法等が挙げられるが、パッディ
ング法が好ましい。加工液を付与した後は常法に従って
乾燥、必要に応じて熱処理を行なう。乾燥は90〜13
0℃で1〜3分程度が好ましく、熱処理は140〜17
0℃で2〜5分程度が好ましい。
[0013] Next, the above processing liquid is applied to the fibrous structure. Methods for applying the processing fluid include a padding method, a spray method, a coating method, etc., but the padding method is preferred. After applying the processing liquid, drying is performed according to a conventional method, and heat treatment is performed if necessary. Drying is 90-13
Approximately 1 to 3 minutes at 0°C is preferable, and the heat treatment is performed at 140 to 17
About 2 to 5 minutes at 0°C is preferable.

【0014】その後、上記の方法で起毛を行ない、しか
る後染色処理を行なう。染色方法は、連続染色法,浸漬
法等が挙げられるが、連続染色法が好ましい。また使用
する染料は繊維の種類に応じて直接染料,反応染料,酸
性染料,カチオン染料,分散染料,含金染料等を用いる
ことができる。例えば、セルロース系繊維に対しては直
接染料,反応染料、ポリエステル繊維に対しては分散染
料、ナイロン繊維に対しては酸性染料,反応染料、羊毛
繊維に対しては含金染料,反応染料が用いられる。
[0014] Thereafter, napping is carried out using the method described above, and then a dyeing process is carried out. Examples of the dyeing method include a continuous dyeing method, a dipping method, etc., and a continuous dyeing method is preferable. The dye used may be a direct dye, a reactive dye, an acid dye, a cationic dye, a disperse dye, a metal-containing dye, etc. depending on the type of fiber. For example, direct dyes and reactive dyes are used for cellulose fibers, disperse dyes are used for polyester fibers, acid dyes and reactive dyes are used for nylon fibers, and metallic dyes and reactive dyes are used for wool fibers. It will be done.

【0015】[0015]

【作用】本発明は上記の様に構成したので、繊維構造物
の凸部の撥水剤は起毛により除去され、凸部は染色工程
により染色され、一方繊維構造物の凹部の撥水剤は起毛
により除去されず、凹部は染色工程により染色されない
ため、全体として霜降り調となり、洗いざらし感が得ら
れるのである。
[Operation] Since the present invention is configured as described above, the water repellent in the convex portions of the fiber structure is removed by raising, and the convex portions are dyed in the dyeing process, while the water repellent in the concave portions of the fiber structure is removed. Since it is not removed by raising and the concave portions are not dyed in the dyeing process, the overall result is a marbling tone and a washed-out feel.

【0016】[0016]

【実施例】次に実施例に基づき本発明を具体的に説明す
る。
EXAMPLES Next, the present invention will be specifically explained based on examples.

【0017】実施例1 この実施例においては、繊維構造物として経糸20番手
双糸,緯糸20番手双糸からなる経密度108本/吋,
緯密度58本/吋の綿綾織物を常法にて糊抜,精練,漂
白,シルケット処理を行なったものを用いた。
Example 1 In this example, the fiber structure has a warp density of 108 threads/inch, consisting of a 20th warp double yarn and a 20th weft double yarn.
A cotton twill fabric with a weft density of 58 threads/inch was used, which was subjected to desizing, scouring, bleaching, and mercerization using conventional methods.

【0018】該綾織物を、弗素系撥水剤としてリケンレ
ジンFGX−KM(三木理研化学(株)社製)30g/
l、及び水を−浴に調整した処理液に浸漬し、ピックア
ップ率70%に絞った。120℃で乾燥後、150℃で
3分熱処理(ベーキング)した。
The twill fabric was treated with 30 g of Riken Resin FGX-KM (manufactured by Miki Riken Chemical Co., Ltd.) as a fluorine-based water repellent.
The sample was immersed in a treatment solution containing 1.1 and water, and the pick-up rate was reduced to 70%. After drying at 120°C, heat treatment (baking) was performed at 150°C for 3 minutes.

【0019】撥水剤を付与した該綾織物を、React
ive Orange2  1.5g/l,React
iveBlack 1  2.0g/l,重曹20g/
l,尿素80g/l,還元防止剤10g/l,及び水を
−浴に調整した処理液に浸漬し、ピックアップ率70%
に絞った。120℃で乾燥後、150℃で3分間乾燥後
、水洗,湯洗し、再度水洗し、乾燥を行ない本発明実施
例の洗いざらし調染色綿織物を得た。
[0019] The twill fabric to which the water repellent was applied was treated with React
ive Orange2 1.5g/l, React
iveBlack 1 2.0g/l, baking soda 20g/
1, urea 80g/l, reduction inhibitor 10g/l, and water were immersed in a treatment solution adjusted to a bath, and the pick-up rate was 70%.
I narrowed it down to. After drying at 120° C. and 150° C. for 3 minutes, washing with water, washing with hot water, washing with water again, and drying was performed to obtain a washed-out dyed cotton fabric of an example of the present invention.

【0020】[0020]

【発明の効果】以上の如く、本発明方法によれば、従来
のように染色濃度コントロールの難しいこともなく、ま
た工程時間を短く、臭気の問題もなく、再現性に優れた
堅牢なる洗いざらし感のある加工が連続的に達成できる
ものであり、その工業的利用価値は大である。また、得
られる製品はあらゆる色相が可能であり、今までにない
洗いざらし感があり、カジュアル用途として頗る有用で
ある。
[Effects of the Invention] As described above, according to the method of the present invention, it is not difficult to control the dyeing concentration as in the conventional method, the process time is short, there is no problem with odor, and a strong washed-out feeling with excellent reproducibility is obtained. A certain amount of processing can be achieved continuously, and its industrial utility value is great. Furthermore, the resulting product can be of any hue, has an unprecedented washed-out feel, and is extremely useful for casual use.

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] 【請求項1】  表面に凹凸を有する繊維構造物に、撥
水剤を含む加工液を付与した後、起毛し、次いで染色す
ることを特徴とする凹凸のある繊維構造物の洗いざらし
調染色方法。
1. A method for dyeing a fibrous structure with an uneven surface to give a washed-out effect, which comprises applying a processing liquid containing a water repellent to the fibrous structure having an uneven surface, raising the fabric, and then dyeing the fabric.
JP3017052A 1991-01-16 1991-01-16 Method for dyeing to worn-out tone Pending JPH04241176A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP3017052A JPH04241176A (en) 1991-01-16 1991-01-16 Method for dyeing to worn-out tone

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP3017052A JPH04241176A (en) 1991-01-16 1991-01-16 Method for dyeing to worn-out tone

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPH04241176A true JPH04241176A (en) 1992-08-28

Family

ID=11933225

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP3017052A Pending JPH04241176A (en) 1991-01-16 1991-01-16 Method for dyeing to worn-out tone

Country Status (1)

Country Link
JP (1) JPH04241176A (en)

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