JP2677139B2 - Manufacturing method of color jeans stitched garments - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a colorful jeans-like knitted garment exhibiting a desired color tone by using cellulosic fibers.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art In jeans garments, cotton yarn is first dyed with an indigo dye, the yarn is used as warp, and the undyed cotton yarn is woven as a weft, and then sewn on the garment, and then a washing treatment such as stonewashing. By randomly scraping one part of the dyed cotton yarn surface, the undyed part is exposed to obtain a marbling clothing of blue to navy blue color tone.

However, since it is necessary to dye the cotton yarn and prepare it, the number of manufacturing lots is small and the cost is high, and there is a drawback in adapting according to market conditions.

In order to improve the above-mentioned dyeing method, Japanese Patent Publication No.
After printing and drying with a dye containing a sizing material using a printing dyeing method in JP-A-9-1831, the printed part of the woven fabric is fluffed by an emery process to partially remove the dye and the sizing material, and then usually Has been disclosed, in which a marbling color tone and a soft texture are imparted by fixing and cleaning treatment.

Further, the applicant has previously filed Japanese Patent Application No. 3-267740.
No. 1 woven fabric using cellulose yarn is dipped in a water repellent solution mixed with reactive dye, dyeing both sides of the woven fabric and water repellent treatment, and printing only one side of the woven fabric with the reactive dye. He proposed a method for producing colorful jeans clothing by sewing and then washing the clothing.

[0006]

As described above, the color jeans clothing is basically based on the woven fabric, and the manufacturing method for the jeans-like clothing, that is, the marbled clothing made of the cellulosic fiber only is completely known. Not not.

When dyeing a cellulosic fiber with a reactive dye which usually requires an alkali in a dip dyeing method, the water-repellent property of the thread treated with water-repellent treatment is lowered by the action of alkali, and The processed yarn is also dyed in the same color as the untreated yarn, and it does not easily look like jeans. The present invention aims to solve this problem.

[0008]

According to the present invention, a spun yarn made of a cellulosic fiber is used as a core, and a yarn having a two-layer structure coated with a cellulosic fiber bundle is used as a core to knit into a knitted fabric. Alternatively, a spun yarn made of a cellulosic fiber is knitted into a knitted fabric using a water-repellent treated yarn and an untreated spun yarn, the knitted fabric is opened and made into a knitted fabric, and quaternized nicotinic acid is removed by a dip dyeing method. Dye with a reactive dye having a reactive group as a leaving group.
Then, the dyed knitted fabric is sewn on clothing and then washed to produce a color jeans-like knitted fabric. A known mercerizing process may be performed before dyeing with the reactive dye.

Of the above-mentioned dyes that are commercially available, Kayacelon React dye (manufactured by Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.) is preferable. The higher the dyeing temperature, and the higher the amount of Glauber's salt added, the higher the dyeability of the dye, and if further selected from the build-up properties, Kayacelon React Yellow CN-ML, Kayac
elon React Yellow CN-RL, Kayacelon React Red CN-7
B, Kayacelon React Blue CN-MG, Kayacelon React Dar
k Blue CN-R and Kayacelon React Turquoise CN-2G are used alone or in combination depending on the desired color tone. The dye can be dyed in the range from the acidic side to the neutral side, and only the non-water-repellent treated fiber is dyed while maintaining the water-repellent effect. For dip dyeing, an ordinary jet color machine, a beam dyeing machine or the like is used.

The cellulosic fibers used in the present invention are staple fibers such as cotton and viscose rayon regenerated fibers, which may be used alone or as a mixture to form spun yarn or coating. Spinning is carried out by an ordinary spinning method, and in order to make a knitted fabric for jeans clothing, it is desirable to use a single yarn of 40 to 80 cotton count, and a normal smelting / bleaching process with a cheese dyeing machine or a soaking machine. Made,
After that, water repellent finish is applied. As the water-repellent agent, any of fluorine-based, paraffin-based, and silicone-based water-repellent agents may be used. 90 g / m
Trial knitting of socks No. ² and its knitted fabric are JIS-L10
92 "Waterproof Test Method for Textile Products" 5.2 Water Repellency Measured by the water repellency test method (spray method) is preferably 80 to 100.

Using the above-mentioned water-repellent treated single yarn as a core, a sliver of cellulosic fibers was used to coat the core in the usual manner.
When the layer composite yarn is used, the cotton count is preferably 20 to 40. When the water-repellent treated single yarn and the non-water-repellent treated spun single yarn are used as a compound yarn or a twisted yarn, a cotton count of 40 to 80 is preferable. A two-layer composite yarn, a compound yarn, or a twisted yarn is used to form a knitted product by using an ordinary knitting machine. The knitted fabric is opened to form a knitted fabric, and the knitted fabric is dyed by a dip dyeing method after smelting / bleaching or soaping by a known method, but it may be mercerized with caustic soda before dyeing. I can.

After the dyed knitted fabric is sewn into a desired clothing, the stone clothing is made of natural pumice or the like, the chemical washing is made of pumice impregnated with a high concentration of chlorine, and the pumice and the amylase enzyme are acidified. A knitted fabric garment having a frosting characteristic of color jeans is obtained by performing a washing process with biowashing or the like, which is a treatment with the prepared liquid.

[0013]

The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to Examples.
The present invention is not limited to this range.

Dye fixing amount (K / S) is computer color matching system (excom Co., Ltd.)
And the reflectance was measured to determine the amount at a wavelength of 620 mm.

Example 1 Using a single yarn of 100% cotton count 40 count, it was put into a cheese dyeing machine and subjected to usual scouring and bleaching treatment. Fluorine-based water repellent TK Guard 285T (Takamatsu Yushi Co., Ltd.)
8 g / l, catalyzer 22B (manufactured by Takamatsu Yushi Co., Ltd.)
IN at 1.6g / l concentration and bath ratio of 1:15 at room temperature
Three cycles of → OUT for 4 minutes and OUT → IN for 6 minutes were processed for 30 minutes and dried at 105 ° C for 90 minutes, and the cheese thread was rewound to obtain a water-repellent thread. Approximately 20 g of each sample was taken from the outermost layer, the middle layer and the innermost layer of the cheese thread, and the weight was measured with a sock knitting machine.
The treated water repellency was 100 when the trial knitted fabric of 0 g / m ² was produced and the water repellency of each was measured.

Using a water-repellent treated cotton single yarn as a core and using a roving yarn of 100% cotton by an ordinary core yarn manufacturing method, a cotton count 20
A two-layer structured yarn of count was obtained. Using the obtained two-layer structure yarn, XL-3FA type circular knitting machine (30 inches, manufactured by Fukuhara Co., Ltd.,
The Tenjiku circular knitted fabric was knitted at 150 m / min with 22 gauge and 2088 needles. Similarly, an Omoshiko circular knitted fabric was knitted at 150 m / min with a XL-3FA circular knitting machine (26 inches, 24 gauge, 1980 needles) manufactured by the same company.

Each of the knitted circular knitted fabrics is opened, and 16
It was preset at 0 ° C. for 60 seconds. Each of the preset knitted fabrics was put into an atmospheric pressure jet dyeing machine (Swing Ace manufactured by Nissen Co., Ltd.), and scouring was performed at a bath ratio of 1:20 by a known method.
After bleaching, Kayacelon React DarkBlue CN-R 4.0% owf,
(Dye concentration with respect to fiber amount), Kayacelon React Blue CN-MG
1.0% owf, 60g / l of Glauber's salt were slowly added at room temperature, left for 5 minutes, and then heated to 90 ° C for 20 minutes.
After the treatment for 0 minutes, the dyeing solution is discharged, followed by washing with water, washing with hot water, and soaping, and Kayafix M (manufactured by Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.)
2 g / l, Brian NS-30 (manufactured by Matsumoto Yushi Co., Ltd.) 2
After fixing and softening at 0 g / l, normal rearrangement processing was performed. 5. The Tenjiku knitted fabric and the Omochiko knitted fabric were uniformly dyed in dark blue, and the dye fixation amount of each was measured.
345 and 6.638. When the knitted fabric was disassembled and the dyed state was confirmed, the coated fiber portion was dyed and only the surface of the core yarn was dyed lightly.

On the other hand, each of the preset knitted fabrics was subjected to caustic soda concentration of 24 ° Baume and temperature of 30 ° C. by a mercerizing machine.
I made mercerizing in. Then, put into an atmospheric pressure jet dyeing machine, scouring and bleaching at a bath ratio of 1:20 by a known method, and then Kayacelon React DarkBlue CN-R 3.0% owf, Kay
acelon React Blue CN-MG 0.5% owf, Glauber's salt 60g /
1 was slowly added at room temperature and left for 5 minutes, then 2
The temperature is raised to 90 ° C in 0 minutes, and after 10 minutes of treatment, the dyeing solution is discharged, washed with water, washed with hot water, and treated with soap, and Kayafix M
After fixing and softening with 2 g / l and 20 g / l of Brian NS-30, ordinary rearrangement processing was performed. The Tenjiku knitted fabric and the Omochiko knitted fabric were uniformly dyed in dark blue, and the dye fixation amount of each was measured to be 16.516 and 16.3.
It was 75. After disassembling the knitted fabric and confirming the dyed state,
The coated fiber portion was dyed and only the surface of the core yarn was lightly dyed.

Three pieces of each were sewn to a shirt using the unwoven mercerized fabric and the mercerized knitted fabric obtained as described above, using the dyed Tenjiku and Omokako knitted fabrics.

Natural pumice stone and a sewn shirt were put into the obtained shirt using a washer machine, treated at 50 ° C. for 60 minutes, washed with water and dried to obtain a jeans-like knitted garment.
Also, pumice stones soaked with sodium hypochlorite and a sewn shirt were put, treated at 40 ° C. for 20 minutes, washed with water and dried to obtain a jeans-like knitted garment. Also, natural pumice and Celtese X
P-425 (manufactured by Nagase Seikagaku Corporation) 15 g / l,
A sewn shirt was placed in a treatment bath having a pH of 4.2 with acetic acid and sodium acetate, treated at 50 ° C. for 60 minutes, washed with water and dried to obtain a jeans-like knitted garment. All of these three types of washed cloths and Omochiko knitted fabric shirts have the dyed covering yarn surface partially removed at random, and the core yarn appears to give a color jeans tone, that is, a frosted state, especially the sewn portion. The jeans-like knitted fabric shirt was excellent in that the sewn portion was noticeably washed. In particular, the shirt obtained from the knitted fabric dyed after mercerizing was superior in color tone and texture to the shirt obtained from the knitted fabric not dyed mercerized.

Example 2 Using the same method as in Example 1, a water-repellent treated yarn was obtained using a single yarn of cotton count 40 count of 100% cotton. A 40-twisted double-ply yarn having a twist number of 15.5 turns / inch was obtained by using a single yarn having a cotton count of 40-thickness of 100% cotton which was not subjected to water repellent treatment.
Using the twisted yarn, a Tenjiku circular knitted fabric and a Kanoko circular knitted fabric were knitted under the same conditions as in Example 1.

Each of the knitted circular knitted fabrics is opened, and 16
It was preset at 0 ° C. for 60 seconds. Each pre-set knitted fabric is put into an atmospheric jet dyeing machine, and Kayacelon React Dark B
lueCN-R 4.0% owf, Kayacelon React Red CN-7B 1.
0% OWF, 60 g / l of Glauber's salt were dyed under the same conditions as in Example 1, then washed with water, washed with hot water and soaped, and lyken resin RE-10E (manufactured by Miki Riken Co., Ltd.) 95 g / l,
Fixer M (manufactured by Miki Riken Co., Ltd.) was impregnated with a treatment liquid of 30 g / l, squeezed at a squeezing ratio of 100%, dried at 110 ° C. for 60 seconds, and then heat set at 165 ° C. for 50 seconds by a tenter hot air dryer. went. Then, it was washed, treated with the same fix as in Example 1 and subjected to a softening treatment, and subjected to a normal rearrangement process. In this Tenjiku knitted fabric and Kanoko knitted fabric, the non-water repellent yarn is completely dyed in dark blue, and the dye-fixed amount of each fabric is slightly dyed on the surface of the water repellent yarn. Was measured to be 4.662 and 4.753.

On the other hand, after each preset knitted fabric was mercerized, scoured and bleached under the same conditions as in Example 1, Kayacelon React Dark Blue CN-R 3.0% owf, Ka
yacelon React Red CN-7B 0.5% owf, Glauber's salt 60
It was similarly stained with g / l, and thereafter, the same treatment and arrangement processing were performed. This Tenjiku knitted fabric and Kanoko were also dyed in the same manner as the unmercerized knitted fabric, and they were 12.162 and 12.531, respectively, when the dye fixation amounts were measured.

In the same manner as in Example 1, three shirts were sewn on each of the undyed knitted fabric and the mercerized knitted fabric thus obtained, which were dyed with a plain cloth and an Omokako knitted fabric. Washing processing was performed under the conditions. As a result, the garment had an excellent jeans tone, that is, a marbled appearance, in which the seams and sewn portions of the shirt were remarkably washed. In particular, the knitted fabric shirt dyed after mercerizing had a soft texture and was superior in color tone to the unmercured one.

Comparative Example 1 The Omoshikamaru circular knitted fabric obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 was opened and preset. The knitted fabric was mercerized with a mercerizing machine at a caustic soda concentration of 24 ° and 30 ° C. Then, the mixture is put into an atmospheric pressure jet dyeing machine and the bath ratio is 1:20 by a known method.
After scouring and bleaching with Sumifix Navy Blue GS Special
(Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.) 3.5% owf, Glauber's salt 50 g /
1 and 20 g / l of soda ash were dyed and dyed by a known method.
After that, washing with water, washing with hot water, and soaping were carried out, and the same fixing and softening treatment as in Example 1 were carried out, and then the ordinary rearrangement processing was performed.
This knitted fabric was uniformly dyed in dark blue, and when the knitted fabric was disassembled and investigated, the inside of the water repellent core yarn used in the knitted fabric and the coated fiber were also dyed in the same color. Even when the shirt was sewn with this knitted fabric and washed, the inside of the core yarn was dyed in the same color, so it was judged that it is not appropriate to expect jeans clothing.

Comparative Example 2 The Omoshikamaru knitted fabric obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 was opened and preset. This knitted fabric is put into an atmospheric pressure jet dyeing machine, and after scouring and bleaching, Cibacron Blue 3R (Nippon Ciba Geigy Co., Ltd.)
Made) 4.0% owf, Procion Turquoise HA (eye
0.5% owf, Dri made by C Japan Co., Ltd.
marene Red X-2B (manufactured by Sand Corp.) 0.2% owf,
Dip dyeing was carried out by a known method under the conditions of Glauber's salt 50 g / l and soda ash 20 g / l. This knitted fabric is uniformly dyed in dark blue, and both the water-repellent and non-water-repellent yarns of the twisted yarn that make up the knitted fabric are completely dyed to the inside. Even if a shirt was sewn and washed using it, it was judged to be unsuitable for expecting jeans clothing.

[0027]

EFFECT OF THE INVENTION A water-repellent effect is maintained by using a reactive dye having a reactive group as a leaving group for quaternized nicotinic acid capable of being dyed in a range from acidic side to neutral side in a dyeing bath. Only the coated yarn or the non-water repellent treated yarn can be dyed.

The dyed knitted fabric is sewn on clothing and subjected to a washing treatment to make a water-repellent yarn as a core,
In the case of a two-layer structured yarn coated with untreated yarn, the coated fiber is dyed, and the dyed coating is partially dropped off at random, and the dye is thin or not dyed at all. Since the yarn is exposed, it is possible to provide a knitted fabric garment exhibiting the frosted tone peculiar to color jeans. Also, in the case of a knitted fabric that is a knitted fabric using a water-repellent processed yarn and an unprocessed yarn as a compound yarn or a twisted yarn, the surface of the dyed unprocessed yarn is partially released at random and the dyeing is thin or not at all. It is possible to provide a knitted garment having a defrosting characteristic of color jeans in which the surface of the undyed yarn is slightly defrosted even before being washed in order to be released at random, and becomes clearer.

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Claims (3)

(57) [Claims] 1. A spun yarn composed of a cellulosic fiber is coated with a cellulosic fiber bundle with a water-repellent treated yarn as a core.
A knitted fabric with a layer structure yarn, the knitted fabric is opened to form a knitted fabric, and the knitted fabric is dyed with a reactive dye having a reactive group having a leaving group of nicotinic acid quaternized by a dip dyeing method, and the knitted fabric is used as clothing. A method for producing a color jeans-like knitted garment, which comprises washing after sewing. 2. A spun yarn made of a cellulose yarn fiber is knitted with a water-repellent treated yarn and an untreated spun yarn, and the knitted fabric is opened to form a knitted fabric, and nicotinic acid quaternized by a dip dyeing method is removed. A method for producing a color jeans-like knitted garment, which comprises dyeing with a reactive dye having a reactive group serving as a leaving group, sewing the knitted fabric to a garment, and then washing the same. 3. A knitting after mercerization the fabric, according to claim 1 or 2 color jeans regulating knitted garment manufacturing method according to, characterized in that dyeing with reactive dyes.