JPH0418174A - Production of cellulosic textile product - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To readily obtain the subject product with fully washed feeling by presubjecting a cellulosic fiber cloth to napping treatment, carrying out weight reduction treatment with a cellulase enzyme, then sewing the cloth and subjecting the cloth to washer treatment. CONSTITUTION:A cellulosic fiber cloth is presubjected to napping treatment and weight reduction treatment is then carried out with a cellulase enzyme. The resultant cloth is subsequently used to provide a sewn product, which is then subjected to washer treatment. Thereby, a cellulosic fiber product with wearing out feeling is readily obtained. The weight reduction ratio with treatment by the cellulase is within the range of preferably 0.2-8.0wt.%, especially 0.5-3.0wt.%.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (Field of Industrial Application) The present invention relates to a method for producing cellulose fiber products that have a worn or washed-out feel.

(Prior Art) In recent years, products that have a worn-in or washed-out feel have become popular in the field of casual clothing.

The most typical of these product groups is stonewashed blue denim. This is a method in which fabrics are sewn using thread dyed with indigo dye, and an impact object such as pumice is placed in a washer and washed to create a 9-part damage, giving it a random feel. be. moreover.

In order to emphasize surface changes, chlorine bleach is also used.

Such a worn-in or washed-out look is not limited to blue denim, but is increasingly being imparted to a wide range of casual clothing in various colors.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) Conventionally, the following methods have been implemented to impart such a worn-out or washed-out feel.

(b) Surface dyeing method Surface dyeing using a special staining method using thren dye or surface dyeing method using textile printing techniques, etc.

This is a method in which only the surface of the fabric is dyed, and after sewing, stone washing is performed using a washer to give a physically random pattern.

According to this method, in a partially hit area, the undyed part inside the fabric is exposed, giving the fabric a surface change that gives it a worn-in or washed-out feel. Indigo denim is also a type of this type of denim, which is made by lobe dyeing using indigo dye in the form of threads.

Only the surface of the thread is dyed; the inside of the thread is not dyed.

(b) Method of dyeing using pigments The fabric is dyed with pigment using a binder.

After sewing, the garment is washed with a washer to randomly remove pigments, giving it a worn-in or washed-out feel. this is.

This method takes advantage of the wash-off properties of pigment dyeing.

(c) Method of washing products with cellulase enzyme A fabric dyed in a conventional manner is sewn, and the sewn product is subjected to a weight reduction treatment using a washer or the like using cellulase enzyme to change the surface of the product.

This is a method of imparting a worn or washed-out feel.

As an application of this method, materials dyed using method (a) may also be used. Product weight reduction treatment for indigo denim using cellulase enzymes is widely practiced.

However, in the method (a) using surface staining,
It is very difficult to leave the center of the fabric white to a certain thickness, and there are problems with reproducibility.

If the fabric is not thick enough, it has the disadvantage that the inside will be dyed. This method is commonly practiced today for indigo denim, but in this case it is only applicable to one color, so-called indigo blue, and has a major problem in that it cannot be used in a variety of colors.

In the case of the dyeing method using pigments (b) above, since pigments are used, the pigments will fall off from the fabric as it is washed repeatedly during actual wear, resulting in a significant change from the initial appearance. It has its drawbacks.

In the case of the above-mentioned method (c) of washing products with cellulase enzyme, cellulase enzyme treatment is performed after sewing, but the state of the sewn product differs from the state before sewing, and there are areas of the sewn product where there are overlapping stitches and interlining. As a result, the permeability of the cellulase enzyme treatment solution differs locally, and as a result, the areas that come into contact with the cellulase enzyme are greatly reduced, causing a decrease in strength, or in extreme cases. Damage may also occur. When it comes to sewing thread, cotton thread is not as strong, so it will be necessary to devise a new method.

The present invention was made in view of the current situation, and aims to produce a cellulose-based fiber product that has a worn-in or washed-out feel without causing a significant decrease in the strength of the fabric.

(Means for Solving the Problems) The present invention achieves the above object and has the following configuration.

In other words, 1 the present invention is to apply a raising treatment to a cellulose fiber fabric in advance, then perform a weight loss treatment using a cellulase enzyme, then use this fabric to make a sewn product, and then subject the sewn product to a washer treatment. The gist of this paper is a method for producing cellulose-based fiber products characterized by the following.

The present invention will be explained in detail below.

What is the cellulose fiber fabric applied to the present invention?

It refers to fabrics made of cotton, linen, rayon, etc., or fabrics made by blending, twisting, or weaving these fibers with synthetic fibers or protein fibers such as wool or silk. Blended,
In the case of intertwisting, interweaving, etc., it is desirable that cellulose fibers be contained in an amount of 50% or more. In the method of the present invention, first, a fabric made of these fibers is subjected to a raising treatment.

As for the raising method, clothing raising method, emery raising method, or a combination of both can be used depending on the situation of the intended final product. If you do not want the final product to have a raised feel, it is necessary to apply very light emery raising, and if you require a strong raised feel, it is necessary to apply strong needle cloth raising, etc. be.

Next, in the method of the present invention, the fabric thus raised is subjected to a weight loss treatment using a cellulase enzyme. Cellulase as used herein is a general term for enzymes that cleave β-1,4-glucoside bonds of cellulose, and does not refer to any specific compound. When using cellulase enzymes, it is necessary for industrial purposes to select those that are highly effective even in small amounts.

It is desirable to use a cellulase derived from an organism that has a high hydrolysis ability for cellulose, such as Trichoderma Viride. In general, there are cellulases that are commercially available for treating fibers, and these are easy to use in terms of price.1For example, Enthilon CM-10 (Rakuto Kasei product), Celluclast 1.5L (Novo product)
Specific examples include Cellulase XP-425 (product of Nagashio Seikagaku ■), and Meicelase CM8B-5061 (product of Meiji Seika).

As a weight loss treatment method using cellulase enzyme.

The immersion method uses a jet dyer, wince, jigger, etc. to process in a cellulase-containing aqueous solution, and the pad/batch method uses a bag to uniformly apply a concentrated cellulase-containing aqueous solution for batch-up processing. be able to.

A treatment temperature of 40 DEG to 50 DEG C. and a treatment solution pH of 3.5 to 5 are generally recommended, since this is the range with the highest cellulose resolution. However, since the optimal conditions differ slightly depending on the type of cellulase used, it is preferable from the point of view of production costs to set conditions that provide the highest cellulose decomposition efficiency depending on the characteristics of the cellulase used.

The weight loss rate in the present invention may be in the range of about 0.2 to 8.0 weight %, but the optimum weight loss rate is 0.5 to 3.0 weight %.

The advantage of carrying out hair raising in advance in the method of the present invention is that the weight loss rate can be set at a low level during weight loss treatment using cellulase. In other words, as long as the weight is increased and the weight is reduced, it is relatively easy to cause bumps and misalignments in the product washing process (washer treatment) in the post-process, even if the napping treatment is not done in advance, resulting in a washed-out or worn-out feeling. However, unlike the alkali treatment of polyester fibers, treatment of cellulose fibers for weight loss with enzymes causes a significant decrease in strength when treated with 1-strong weight loss treatment, resulting in a loss of commercial value as clothing. Become. Therefore, in the method of the present invention, by brushing the reserved cellulose fiber fabric, compared to the case where napping is not performed, even if the amount of treatment is reduced, the washer treatment can easily reduce the washed-out or worn-out feeling. You will be able to obtain better results, and you will also be able to use it with less loss of strength.

Dyeing may be performed before raising, after raising, after reducing weight, or after sewing.

After this, in the method of the present invention, the weight-reduced fabric is sewn into a desired shape, and then the sewn product is subjected to washer treatment (product washing). A rotary washer or the like can be used for the washer treatment. It is necessary to use different washer treatment methods depending on the desired washed-out feeling.

If a strong washed-out feel is required, perform stone washing or sand washing.

If a relatively gentle and natural feeling of washing is required, the method may be set depending on the purpose, such as washing with normal hot water.

The present invention consists of two or more configurations.

(Function) In the method of the present invention, the gist is to first raise the cellulose fiber fabric, then perform a weight loss treatment using a cellulase enzyme, then sew it, and wash the sewn product with a washer. .

By configuring it in this way, it has an excellent color fading effect and easily reduces the washed-out and worn-out look.

Moreover, it becomes possible to stably apply it to textile products.

Prior to enzymatic weight loss treatment of cellulosic fiber fabrics.

The inventor of the present invention conjectures the following as to why the napping treatment in advance makes it easier to obtain an excellent washed-out feel and worn-out feel when washed with a washer.

When a cellulose fiber fabric is raised in advance, the surface of the fiber becomes fluffy and the single fibers are also damaged. When textiles in such a state are treated with cellulase enzymes, the fluffy portions on the surface of the textiles receive a weight loss effect preferentially over the interior of the textiles.

As a result, the strength decrease in the fluffed part is greater than that inside the fabric (
Become. Fabrics that have been treated in this way.

Due to the physical impact of washing with a washer.

The fluff on the surface of the fabric easily falls off.

Therefore, when such a fabric is sewn into a product, unlike a cloth-like product, the stitched parts will have unevenness, and only a relatively light washer treatment will prevent physical contact, scratches, or scratches during washing. It is presumed that wear and the like appear unevenly, making it easier to obtain a natural washed-out or worn-out feel that is characteristic of product processing.

(Example) Next, the method of the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto.

Example 1 A 100% cotton 18 count plain weave fabric (warp density 75 fibers/inch, weft density 63 fibers/inch) was subjected to hair burning, desizing, and
A product that had been scoured, bleached, and mercerized was prepared, and then lightly raised using an emery raising machine.

Next, using a jet dyeing machine, a 1/60 enzyme reduction treatment was performed at 45°C at a bath ratio of 1:20 using the treatment solution of the following formulation 1, followed by a 15-minute bath at 90°C. I washed it.

[Formulation 1] Acetic acid (98% purity) 0.5g/1 Sodium acetate (trihydrate) lOg/l The weight loss rate due to the enzyme was 1.8% by weight, and the decrease in potency was very small, so there was no problem. Ta.

Here, 1, the fabric was dyed in a light brown color using a conventional method, and then sewn into jeans. Subsequently, the product was washed for 30 minutes at 60° C. using a rotary washer, and then treated with a softener and tumble dried.

The jeans obtained in this way have random misalignment, and the fuzz caused by raising has been reduced overall, giving it the appearance of the fuzz that occurs when repeatedly washed, giving it an excellent worn-in feel. It had been.

Example 2 Boblin fabric (warp density: 126 yarns/inch, weft density: 52 yarns/inch) consisting of cotton yarn with warp count 30 and weft yarn count 20 was subjected to hair burning, desizing, and scouring in a conventional manner.

Bleached and mercerized material was prepared and dyed moss green. This fabric was lightly raised using an emery raising machine.

Next, using a 2-dip, 2-nip type mangle, pad it with the treatment liquid (50°C) of the following formulation 2, squeeze the liquid at a squeezing rate of 75%, wind it up on a roll, and leave it as it is for 40 minutes.
The sample was left to stand at ℃ for 12 hours to carry out enzymatic weight reduction processing.

[Formulation 2] Celluclast 1.5L (Se7.Rase Enzyme, manufactured by 7po Co., Ltd. 12g/Hyakuacetic acid (98% purity) 1g/Il Sodium acetate (trihydrate) 2g/l followed by Actinol R-
100 (manufactured by Matsumoto Yushi ■).

Nonionic surfactant) in a 2g/l soaping bath,
Soaping was carried out at 90°C for 30 minutes.

The weight loss rate due to the enzyme was 0.8% by weight, and the decrease in strength was very slight, causing no problems.

The obtained woven fabric was sewn into the shape of jeans. Next, put pumice into the rotary washer,
Stone washing was performed at 60 tons for 20 minutes, followed by softener treatment and tumble drying.

The jeans shirt obtained in this way has a random feeling of rubbing on the collar, sleeves, seams, etc., and also has a feeling of color fading overall.
It was a casual shirt with a unique stonewashed feel.

(Effects of the Invention) The present invention has a configuration in which a cellulose-based fabric is subjected to a napping treatment and a weight reduction treatment using a cellulase enzyme, and then is processed into a sewn product with a washer.

According to the present invention having such a configuration, it is possible to very easily impart an excellent color fading effect, a washed-out feel, a worn-out look, etc. to a sewn product.

Claims (1)

[Claims] (1) A cellulose fiber fabric is subjected to a raising treatment in advance, then subjected to a weight loss treatment using a cellulase enzyme, then this fabric is used to make a sewn product, and then the sewn product is subjected to a washer treatment. A method for producing cellulose-based fiber products.