JP2007023427A - Raschel lace knitted fabric with partially varied stretchability and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a stretchable lace knitted fabric capable of properly varying stretch performance and shape, and preferably manifesting body shape adjusting potential of the knitted fabric by adding more stretch potential to the lace. <P>SOLUTION: The part 20 having stretch performance different from the other parts in elongation and stretching force, etc., is formed by a Raschel machine by knitting the texture of the ground knit 10 by guiding the stitch forming threads 1 and the inserting thread 2 composed of inelastic yarns by using ground reeds L1, L2, and elastic threads 3 by using a ground reed L3, and constituting a desired patterns by guiding the pattern yarns by using a pattern reeds, and inserting elastic threads Y1, Y2, Y3 different from the elastic threads on the ground knit are inserted by using a plurality of pattern reeds P1, P2, P3 on the desired part, the elastic yarns Y1, Y2, Y3 are laterally swingingly inserted over three or more wales on an arbitrary position to knit the lace varying elongation, stretching force, etc., in at least one direction of every direction. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2007,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a stretchable warp knitted fabric, particularly a partially stretchable raschel lace knitted fabric used for various apparel such as women's underwear and a method for producing the same.

  Conventionally, for example, foundations such as shorts, girdles and bras, lingerie such as slips and camisole and other underwear for women, sportswear such as body suits, swimsuits and leotards, and various other clothing such as outerwear, etc. The use of warp knitted fabrics having elasticity such as lace knitted fabrics is increasing.

  In such warp knitted fabrics, the basic knitting structure is a satin knitting with chain knitting yarn and insertion yarn, power net knitting, denvi knitting, tulle knitting or mesh knitting structure, and this knitting structure is knitted. Generally constructed by knitting with elastic yarn to give stretchability and stretchability to the entire knitted fabric, and adding a normal lace pattern with handle folds and a jacquard lace pattern with jacquard folds to this Is.

  By the way, the conventional elastic warp knitted fabric has elastic yarn inserted into the entire knitted fabric and has substantially uniform stretchability and elastic force, and a girdle made using this warp knitted fabric or When wearing a clothing such as a brassiere, the fit is good to some extent, but it is not possible to obtain a partly large extensibility according to the body shape, and the body shape correcting function by the stretching force is also poor. For this reason, in the use of the garment, another stretchable fabric is sewn as an application cloth or the like in order to exert a body shape correcting function by giving a partly large stretchability and stretchability (power).

  However, in clothing that uses a different stretch fabric as a garment and has a partially increased stretch force, a difference in thickness appears at the boundary between the area where the garment is present and the area where it does not. There was a problem that it was visible from the outside of the wear, and the appearance was significantly reduced. In addition, there is a problem that the stitched portion becomes hard and the touch becomes worse, and the wearer is uncomfortable.

  Therefore, in recent years, in stretchable warp knitted fabrics such as lace knitted fabrics, it has been proposed to partially enhance the stretch function such as stretchability and stretch force without using a batter.

  For example, in Patent Document 1, in a garment composed of warp knitted fabric knitted by inelastic yarns and elastic yarns, a structure obtained by switching a knitting structure appearing on the front side of the ground knitting in response to a request for strength of stretching force. By using a thick yarn or double-aligned yarn as the elastic yarn used for knitting the ground knitting with the change of the ground knitting structure, a portion with a strong stretching force is formed. It has been proposed to form a pattern shape such as a belt shape with curved portions.

  However, in the case of the above-mentioned patent document 1, since the stretch force is basically changed by the change of the ground knitting structure, the stretch force is strengthened by changing the use of the elastic yarn used for the knitting of the ground knitting. Even if it can be done, there is a limit to the change in extensibility, and the high stretchability part is not so large as the low stretchability part, especially soft and large extensibility cannot be obtained. In addition, the pattern of the highly stretchable part is only a band with a certain width even if it is curved, and the tightening may be partly too strong, so that the body shape correction function is sufficiently satisfactory It can not be said.

  Furthermore, in the present applicant, as a lace knitted fabric having elasticity by warp knitting, a stretch-like reinforced expansion / contraction force is enhanced by additionally inserting an elastic yarn into a predetermined width portion. In addition to providing a portion, the reinforced stretchable portion is shaped to have a predetermined curve or bend at least in part according to the use mode in the knitting direction, and has a correction function according to the body shape. (Patent Document 2).

  However, as shown in FIG. 16, the proposed knitting structure knitted the basic structure with the non-stretchable yarn 101 of the chain knitting and the insertion yarn 102 that joins the chain knitting, and the entire knitted fabric was made stretchable. In the knitted fabric in which the elastic yarn 103 to be applied is inserted along each wale, in order to form the belt-shaped reinforced stretchable portion 120, an additional elasticity is provided separately from the elastic yarn 103 of the ground knitted fabric 110 to be inserted into the entire knitted fabric. The yarn Y ′ is introduced through a ground and inserted into a predetermined portion. That is, it has the same width over the entire length in the knitting direction and the same extensibility and stretching force over the entire length, and does not change the strength or shape of these stretching functions.

Therefore, in use in clothing such as women's underwear, the expansion and contraction functions such as stretchability and stretch force of the reinforced stretchable part may be partly too strong for the body shape, In some cases, the shape may be excessive or deficient, and the expansion and contraction function with a soft feel corresponding to the body shape is required.
Japanese Patent No. 3023354 JP 2001-303414 A

  The present invention has been made in view of the above, and is a warp knitted fabric having a stretchability and a pattern formed as a whole knitted fabric. In the case where an expansion / contraction function adding part that makes the expansion / contraction function such as (power) different from other parts is provided, the expansion / contraction function and shape such as extensibility and expansion / contraction force of the expansion / contraction function adding part are appropriately changed. It is possible to provide a raschel lace knitted fabric that can be easily configured with a soft stretch function and a manufacturing method for obtaining the lace knitted fabric.

  The partially stretchable raschel lace knitted fabric of the present invention that solves the above problems is knitted by a Russell machine and guided by one or more ground yarns and guided by one or more other ground fabrics. In a warp knitted fabric in which a ground knitting is knitted by the elastic yarn to be knitted and an arbitrary pattern is constituted by the pattern yarn guided by the handle, additional elasticity is provided separately from the elastic yarn of the ground knitting By inserting and knitting the yarn by inserting the yarn with a plurality of handle rods, a stretch function addition part that makes the stretch function such as stretchability and stretch force different from other parts is formed in the part required for use The additional elastic yarn of the expansion / contraction function adding portion includes a laterally inserted portion extending over 3 wales. In particular, the expansion / contraction function adding section is configured such that the expansion / contraction function and / or shape such as extensibility and expansion / contraction force is changed in at least one direction of the process according to usage requirements.

  According to this lace knitted fabric, the additional elastic yarn inserted to constitute the stretchable function adding portion is guided and inserted and knitted by the handle knives different from the ground knitting for knitting the ground knitting structure. Therefore, the additional elastic yarn can be knitted so that the lateral swing width can be arbitrarily changed irrespective of the ground knitting structure, and the expansion / contraction of the expansion / contraction function adding portion for increasing the expansion / contraction function over other ground knitting portions. It is possible to change the function and shape according to usage requirements without any problems, and in particular, it is possible to change the function and shape step by step or to obtain a part of the film with a large extensibility, for example, in the weft direction. For this reason, in use in clothing such as women's underwear or outerwear, an extension / contraction function adding portion corresponding to the body shape can be formed, and a good body shape correcting function can be exhibited. Furthermore, by knitting the additional elastic yarn constituting the stretchable function adding portion to include a laterally inserted portion extending over 3 wales, for example, a large stretchability or soft stretchability is partially provided in the weft direction, for example. Can be held. Moreover, a kind of pattern effect can be exhibited using the change in the shape of the stretchable function adding portion.

  In the portion where the soft stretchability is required in the stretchable function adding portion, the additional elastic yarn guided by the handle has a number less than the maximum width of the stretchable function added portion and at least one. It can be inserted and knitted so as not to cause the overlapping of the horizontal swing portions between the wales. Thereby, for example, a large stretchability or soft stretchability in the weft direction can be imparted to a necessary portion in the stretchable function adding portion.

  In the lace knitted fabric, the additional elastic yarn guided by the handle is preferably an elastic covering yarn. As a result, even if the additional elastic yarn appears on the surface, it can be dyed without any problem, has a good texture, and can be used with no problem in clothing such as women's underwear.

  In the lace knitted fabric, the knitted fabric is knitted by a Russell machine equipped with a jacquard reed, and in addition to the elastic yarn of the ground knitted, another elastic covering yarn is inserted by the jacquard reed, so that the ground knitted portion is It can be formed in a net shape or a plain shape, and can be provided with the elasticity of history.

  In the lace knitted fabric, the stretchable function adding portion is formed so as to form at least one of a strip shape extending continuously or partially in the knitting direction, a repeated or continuous set of small patterns, or a geometric pattern. It can be made.

  Further, the present invention provides a method for producing the partially stretchable raschel lace knitted fabric as described above, in which a non-elastic yarn is introduced by one or more grounds and an elastic yarn by one or more other grounds by a Russell machine. In the method of manufacturing a warp knitted fabric that knitted so as to form an arbitrary pattern by knitting a pattern of a ground knitting and knitting a pattern yarn with a handle to form an arbitrary pattern, Separately, by inserting and knitting by inserting additional elastic yarns with multiple handle rods, the stretch function makes the stretch function such as stretchability and stretch force different from other parts in the parts required for use An additional portion is formed, and the additional elastic yarn of the expansion / contraction function adding portion is knitted by inserting and swinging over 3 wales or more at an arbitrary course position.

  Accordingly, the swing width of the additional elastic yarn forming the stretchable function adding portion can be knitted so as to be arbitrarily changed including a laterally swinging portion extending over 3 wales irrespective of the ground knitting structure, It becomes possible without any problem to knitting while changing the expansion / contraction function and shape of the expansion / contraction function adding part for strengthening the expansion / contraction function from the ground knitting part according to usage requirements. In other words, the stretchability can be changed stepwise by the change in the lateral swing width and the lateral swing position of the additional elastic yarn that is introduced and inserted by the handle, or the stretchability can be partially increased. .

  In the method for manufacturing a lace knitted fabric, a plurality of additional elastic yarns to be inserted into the expansion / contraction function adding portion with a handle are used at each course position according to a request for use. By appropriately changing the swing position, the warp knitting can be knitted so as to change the stretch function and / or the stretch function and / or the shape of the stretch function and / or the shape of the stretch function of the stretch function adding portion. You can get the ground without problems.

  According to the partially stretchable raschel lace knitted fabric of the present invention and the manufacturing method thereof, the warp knitted fabric basically has stretchability, and the stretch function such as stretchability and stretch force is increased in a portion required in use. The elastic function adding portion for forming the elastic function is formed by inserting an additional elastic yarn separately from the elastic yarn of the ground knitting, without changing the structure of the ground knitting, The shape can be appropriately changed according to usage requirements, and an extension / contraction function adding portion having an arbitrary extension / contraction function and an arbitrary shape can be formed. Therefore, when used in clothing or the like, it is possible to provide an expansion / contraction function that is suitable for the body shape and does not have excess or deficiency. In addition, it is possible to give a part of a large stretchability and soft stretchability, and to easily fit the stretch function adding portion to the body shape, and to further enhance the body shape correction effect.

  Next, embodiments of the present invention will be described based on examples shown in the drawings.

  FIG. 1 is a partial schematic plan view showing a partially stretchable raschel lace fabric of one embodiment of the present invention. FIG. 2 is a knitting organization chart of a part of the knitted lace fabric. FIG. 3 is an exploded view of the wrapping state of each heel except for a part of the stalk for introducing the stipulated yarn.

  The knitted lace fabric A according to the present invention comprises a Russell machine equipped with a plurality of pattern knives for pattern knitting separately from the ground knitting for knitting the ground knitted fabric, in particular, several tens of pattern knives, 90 in many cases. It is knitted by a so-called multi-bar Russell machine having a large number of handle ridges. Alternatively, it is knitted by a multi-bar Russell machine provided with at least one jacquard rod whose movement is controlled by a jacquard device.

  That is, in the knitted lace fabric A of the present invention, an inelastic yarn is basically guided by one or more grounds and an elastic yarn is guided by one or more other grounds by the Russell machine. In addition, a required number of pattern yarns are introduced by a plurality of pattern ridges, and as a whole knitted fabric 10 is knitted as shown in FIG. 1, an elastic pattern 12 is formed. Be organized. Further, in a predetermined portion required in use of the knitted lace fabric A, an additional elastic yarn, in addition to the elastic yarn of the ground knitting 10, is a plurality of other sheets excluding the handle rod that guides the handle yarn. Stretching function addition part that makes stretching functions such as extensibility and stretching force different from other parts (increases the stretching function in the weft direction with respect to other parts) 20 is formed.

  FIG. 2 shows an example of the knitting structure of the lace knitted fabric A. In the example of FIG. 2, the stitch forming yarn 1 that performs chain knitting or the like made of an inelastic yarn guided by one ground L1 and the inelasticity guided by the other ground L2. The basic structure of the plain knitted fabric 10 is knitted by the insertion yarn 2 made of yarn, and the polyurethane guided to the basic structure of the knitted fabric 10 by the other ground L3. By inserting and knitting elastic yarns 3 such as fibers along each wale W of the entire knitted fabric along the wales, the entire knitted fabric 10 is knitted having stretchability in at least the warp direction. Further, although not shown in FIG. 2, as in the case of the conventional pattern knitting, as described above, there are two or more handle rods, preferably several dozen or more handle rods. These are knitted so as to form an arbitrary pattern (see FIG. 1) by using a plurality (usually several tens) of pattern yarns introduced to a predetermined portion corresponding to the pattern.

  Further, in the lace knitted fabric A, in addition to the elastic yarn 3 of the ground knitted fabric 10 disposed on the entire knitted fabric, an elastic cover ring is added to a predetermined portion required in use of clothing or the like. Elastic yarns Y such as yarns, for example, three elastic yarns Y1, Y2, and Y3 as shown in FIG. The yarn is individually guided by P1, P2, and P3 one by one, and is knitted by being knitted by being slid and inserted so as to include a sway insertion portion that extends over 3 wales. An expansion / contraction function adding portion 20 is formed. The expansion / contraction function adding unit 20 has an expansion / contraction function such as extensibility and expansion / contraction force mainly in the weft direction with respect to the fabric portion of the other knitted fabric by inserting the additional elastic yarn Y (Y1, Y2, Y3). Will be increased.

  FIG. 3 is an exploded view showing the case where the knitted lace fabric A is knitted by a multi-bar Russell machine equipped with a jacquard rod L2. Also in FIG. 3, the handle rod for guiding the handle yarn among the multiple handle rods is omitted.

  In the case of FIG. 3, the insertion yarn 2 made of inelastic yarn guided by the jacquard heel L2 is inserted into the jar forming yarn 1 made of inelastic yarn guided by the single ground yarn L1. By inserting and swinging while being card-controlled, the basic structure of the ground fabric 10 such as plain or net-like or mesh-like is knitted, and polyurethane yarn guided by another ground L3 By inserting the elastic yarns 3 and the like along each wale of the basic structure, the entire knitted fabric 10 is knitted with stretchability in the warp direction as a whole. Although not shown, a desired pattern is formed by introducing a pattern yarn by a large number of handle ridges as in the prior art.

  In the knitting of the basic structure, the insertion form of the insertion yarn 2 by the jacquard heel L2 is changed by jacquard control, so that the jacquard can be formed in a large or small net shape or a combination of hole holes, thin ground, thick ground, etc. A card lace pattern can be formed. The elastic yarn 3 of the ground L3 is not limited to the structure shown in FIG. 3, but can be knitted with a structure that is swayed in a required course as illustrated in FIG. 4 (a) or (b). . In the case of the structure shown in FIG. 4, the knitted fabric to be knitted also has the elasticity in the weft direction. The elastic yarn 3 of the ground rope L3 is basically guided and knitted by the ground cloth arranged on the rear side of the handle.

  Further, in the knitted lace fabric A knitted as described above, a predetermined portion required for use of clothing or the like is added to the elastic yarn 3 of the knitted fabric 10 arranged on the entire knitted fabric. Thus, a plurality of elastic yarns Y1, Y2, Y3 made of elastic covering yarn, etc., excluding a plurality of handle rods that guide the handle yarn out of a plurality of handle rods, for example, three as shown in the figure Stretched and stretched by being knitted by being knitted by being knitted and inserted into the structure of the ground knitting 10 so as to include a sway insertion portion extending over 3 wales. Thus, the expansion / contraction function adding portion 20 is formed which makes the expansion / contraction function different from the other portions of the ground fabric 10 alone. Also in this case, the expansion / contraction function adding unit 20 mainly has an expansion / contraction function such as extensibility in the weft direction and expansion / contraction force with respect to other parts by inserting the additional elastic yarn Y (Y1, Y2, Y3). By increasing the swing width and swing position as appropriate, the stretch function and shape of the stretch function adding unit 20 can be partially varied.

  In the partially stretchable raschel lace knitted fabric A of the present invention, the additional elastic yarn Y forming the stretchable function adding portion 20, that is, a plurality of additional yarns guided by a plurality of handle ridges P1, P2, P3. The elastic yarns Y1, Y2, and Y3 are preferably guided by a handle in a portion where soft stretchability is required so that each elastic yarn Y1, Y2, Y3 includes a laterally inserted portion extending over 3 wales in a required course in the knitting direction. The additional elastic yarns Y1, Y2 and Y3 to be knitted have a number smaller than the maximum number of wales of the expansion / contraction function adding portion 20, and at least partially between the same course and adjacent courses Insertion knitting is performed so that the overlapping parts do not overlap. Thereby, in part, for example, the extensibility in the weft direction is increased and the tightening force is reduced, and a soft expansion / contraction function is exhibited.

  For example, each of the additional elastic yarns Y1, Y2, Y3 is not swayed every course in the wale direction, but is swayed in the wale direction as shown in examples of the knitting structure in FIGS. One having more than one course, preferably 1-5 courses between each other, and having a soft expansion / contraction function as described above by reducing the density of the horizontal swing part. It can be.

  Therefore, the expansion / contraction function adding unit 20 is changed by a change or combination of the horizontal swing width, the horizontal swing position, the interval between the horizontal swing portions and the overlap of the plurality of additional elastic yarns Y (Y1, Y2, Y3). The expansion / contraction function and / or shape can be changed in at least one direction of the background, and therefore, it can be configured to meet the usage requirements. In particular, the expansion / contraction function and shape of the expansion / contraction function adding unit 20 can be changed stepwise.

  That is, the additional elastic yarns Y1, Y2, Y3 are knitted by knitting with different handle rods P1, P2, P3, respectively, so that the movement of each handle rod P1, P2, P3, that is, the knitting needle row By appropriately controlling the shog movement in the direction along, it is possible to arbitrarily set the swing width and the swing position for the horizontal swing insertion for each course. For example, as for the swing width, it is possible to insert without swinging along one wale, when inserting horizontally across two adjacent wales, or when inserting horizontally over three whales or more. Each position can be selected as appropriate, and the swing position can be set and changed for each course.

  For this reason, by appropriately combining changes in the insertion state of the additional elastic yarn Y (Y1, Y2, Y3), that is, changes in the swing width, swing position, etc., the stretchability and stretchability of the stretchable function adding portion 20 The shape such as the expansion / contraction function and / or the width can be arbitrarily changed step by step so as to adapt to the use mode. The shape can be changed substantially steplessly.

  For example, with regard to the expansion / contraction function such as extensibility and expansion / contraction force, the extensibility in the knitting width direction increases as the lateral swing width of the additional elastic yarn Y increases, and the lateral swing portion between the wales between adjacent wales increases. Softer stretchability is obtained with less overlap (larger spacing). In addition, the lower the density of the horizontal insertion, the softer the elasticity. Therefore, as shown in FIG. 2 and FIG. 3, in the portion where particularly soft stretchability is required, the additional elastic yarn Y (Y 1, Y 2, Y 3) is used as the maximum width wale of the stretch function adding portion 20. The number may be less than the number, and insertion knitting may be performed with an interval of one or more courses in the wale direction so as not to cause overlap of the horizontal swing portions between the wales, thereby reducing the density of horizontal swing insertion. Further, in a portion where a strong stretching force is required, the overlap of the horizontal swing portions between the wales may be increased or the density of the horizontal swing insertion may be increased.

  The number of the additional elastic yarns Y can be set as appropriate according to the expansion / contraction function to be obtained. However, particularly in a portion where soft stretchability is required, the number of wales having the maximum width of the expansion / contraction function adding unit 20 is larger. A small number is preferable, and the number is preferably less than 2/3 of the maximum number of wales, more preferably a plurality of less than 1/2.

  The shape of the expansion / contraction function adding portion 20 is not limited to a belt shape that is continuous or partially extending in the knitting direction with a substantially constant width, but a belt shape that is largely curved, a belt shape that is bent in a wave shape or a zigzag shape, It can be formed into various shapes, such as a strip-shaped one having a changed width, a one having a repeated or continuous collection of small patterns, or one having a geometric pattern. In addition, the said expansion-contraction function can be variously changed corresponding to the change of this shape.

  5, 6, 7, 9, and 11 schematically show examples of the expansion / contraction function adding unit 20 in which the expansion / contraction function and / or the shape are changed. In both cases, the difference in stretch force is expressed by shading, and the darker portion indicates the portion with stronger stretch force.

  For example, FIG. 5 shows a case where the shape of the expansion / contraction function adding portion 20 having the expansion / contraction function increased from that of the ground stitch 10 is changed. FIG. 6 shows that the stretchable function adding portion 20 is separated into three strip-like portions 20a, 20b, and 20c having substantially the same stretchable function, and the strip-like portions 20a, 20b, and 20c are intermittently connected in the knitting direction. The case where it knits like this and is comprised in the strip | belt shape as a whole is shown. FIG. 7 shows the wrapping structure of the additional elastic yarn Y (Y1, Y2; Y3, Y4; Y5, Y6) in the portion surrounded by the broken line in FIG. 6 by the handle ridges P1, P2, P3, P4, P5, P6. Each of the belt-like portions 20a, 20b, and 20c is constituted by two additional elastic yarns Y (Y1, Y2; Y3, Y4; Y5, Y6), and the elastic yarn Y is not swayed. Are interrupted in the knitting direction by inserting along the same wale.

  FIG. 8 shows a case in which the stretchable function adding portion 20 is formed in a continuous belt shape in the knitting direction, and the stretchable functions such as stretchability and stretchable force are partially changed therein. That is, a case is shown in which the shape is changed while changing in three stages: a portion 21a having the strongest elastic force, a portion 21b having the strongest elastic force, a portion 21b having the strong elastic force (soft portion) 21c. Yes. FIG. 9 shows the wrapping structure of the additional elastic yarn Y (Y1, Y2, Y3, Y4) in the portion surrounded by the broken line in FIG. 8 by the handle ridges P1, P2, P3, P4, and the portion 21a having the strongest stretch force. Then, the density of the horizontal insertion is increased by swinging the elastic yarn Y3 every course, and then the elastic yarns Y2 and Y3 are horizontally shaken every two courses in the portion 21b where the elastic force is strong, and the elastic force is weak. In the portion 21c, the elastic yarns Y1, Y3, Y4 and the like are horizontally oscillated every three courses to change the density of horizontal oscillation insertion, and each elastic yarn Y (Y1, Y2, Y3, Y4) is oscillated. The width and swing position are changed.

  FIG. 10 shows a case where the stretchable function adding portion 20 having a substantially band shape is formed by forming the star-shaped petite patterns 22a and 22b in two rows.

  FIG. 11 shows a case where the expansion / contraction function adding unit 20 is configured to form a geometric pattern. 12 shows the wrapping structure of the additional elastic yarn Y (Y1, Y2, Y3, Y4, Y5, Y6) in the portion surrounded by the broken line in FIG. 11 by the handle ridges P1, P2, P3, P4, P5, P6. The elastic force is increased or decreased by a portion where the elastic yarn is oscillated every course and a portion where the elastic yarn is oscillated every two courses.

  In this way, the stretch function and / or shape such as stretchability and stretch force of the stretch function adding portion 20 can be used according to the body shape in use in various underwear for women such as brassiere and shorts and girdle. It can have a shape and a stretching function such as extensibility and stretching force.

  For example, when creating the brassiere shown in FIG. 13 with the lace knitted fabric A, the stretchable function adding portion 20 is formed in a curved shape along the lower edge of the cup portion 15, and The stretch function and / or shape such as extensibility and stretch force can be changed according to the form of the bust. Thereby, a favorable bust-up function can be exhibited. Further, by using the expansion / contraction force of the expansion / contraction function adding portion 20, it is possible to eliminate a step when sewing another fabric. The expansion / contraction function adding portion 20 can also be set in the portion 16 of the brassiere fastening cloth.

  Further, as shown in FIGS. 14 (a) and 14 (b), when creating a shorts or a girdle with the knitted lace fabric A, a predetermined curve is formed along a line corresponding to the lower portion of the hip portion 17, Further, the stretchable function adding portion 20 having a shape extending toward the waistside portion 18 is formed, and the stretchable function and / or shape such as stretchability and stretchable force of the stretchable function adding portion 20 is changed according to the form of the hip. be able to. Thereby, the favorable hip-up function adapted to the body shape of the hip can be provided.

  In the lace knitted fabric A, various elastic yarns can be used as the additional elastic yarn Y introduced by a handle for the configuration of the stretchable function adding portion 20, but in practice, Since the elastic yarn appears on the front side of the knitted fabric in the same way as the pattern yarn, various elastic covering yarns such as elastic covering yarns in which polyurethane yarn is used as the core yarn and nylon processed yarn is covered twice are preferably used. It is done.

  Further, as the inelastic yarn for knitting the structure of the ground fabric 10, nylon yarn and other various synthetic fiber yarns, or natural fiber yarns such as wool, silk, and cotton can be used. As the elastic yarn 3 for the ground knitting, various elastic yarns such as polyurethane yarn can be used. About the fineness of a thread | yarn, it can set suitably according to the use of a knitted fabric.

  The above-described knitted lace fabric A is knitted like the structure illustrated in FIG. 3 as described above, using a multi-bar Russell machine having a large number of pattern ridges or a multi-bar Russell machine having jacquard ridges.

  That is, each wale is repeatedly knitted by forming the stitches by introducing the stitch-forming yarns 1 made of inelastic yarns mainly all-in with at least one ground L1 and shifting them to the adjacent wale alternately for each required course. Knitted stitch rows, and the other yarn, for example, the jacquard heel L2 is used to guide the insertion yarn 2 made of inelastic yarn mainly all-in, and to the stitch row for every required course. The basic structure of the ground fabric 10 such as plain or mesh is knitted by swinging and knitting. Furthermore, the elastic yarn 3 such as polyurethane yarn is mainly guided all-in by another ground L3, and inserted along each wale W of the basic structure, thereby making the entire knitted fabric stretchable in the warp direction. The ground stitch 10 having is knitted. At the same time, a required pattern is formed by introducing a required number of pattern yarns (for example, one) at a time using a large number of pattern ridges (not shown) as in the prior art.

  Further, simultaneously with the knitting of the ground knitting 10, a plurality of, for example, three additional elastic yarns Y1, Y2, and Y3 made of elastic covering yarn are provided on the predetermined pattern required in use of clothing or the like. Other parts having mainly stretchability in the vertical direction by introducing yarns with three handle rods P1, P2 and P3 excluding the handle rods for introducing yarns and inserting them into the fabric of the ground knitting. On the other hand, the expansion / contraction function adding part 20 having different expansion / contraction functions such as extensibility in the weft direction and expansion / contraction force is formed. In particular, in the knitting of these additional elastic yarns Y1, Y2 and Y3, each side is inserted over 3 wales or more in any course in the knitting direction. The expansion / contraction function adding portion 20 can be expanded and contracted by changing the combination of the width, position, etc. of the horizontal swing insertion of each of the additional elastic yarns Y1, Y2, Y3. The function and / or shape is changed in at least one direction of the history. Thereby, the expansion-contraction function addition part 20 of the various forms shown in FIGS. 5-12 can be formed.

  The knitted lace fabric A thus obtained can have the expansion / contraction function and shape of the expansion / contraction function adding portion 20 in accordance with usage requirements, and in particular, can be changed stepwise or partially stretched greatly. 13 can be formed, and in the use of a bra as shown in FIG. 13 and women's underwear such as shorts and girdles as shown in FIG. The function can be demonstrated.

  The basic structure of the ground knitting 10 is not limited to the illustrated embodiment, and various knitting structures such as a satin knitting, a denvi knitting, and a plain cord knitting can be used. It is also possible to change the organization.

  Further, in the knitting, in addition to the elastic yarn 3 inserted along the wale of the ground knitting 10, the elastic covering yarn is horizontally inserted by another heel, for example, a jacquard heel L 2. The portion of the knitting 10 can be formed in a net shape or a plain shape, and vertical and horizontal stretchability can be imparted to the entire knitted fabric.

  Furthermore, it is also possible to form a plurality of the same shape expansion / contraction function adding portions 20 at intervals in the width direction in one knitted lace fabric A. In this case, the additional elastic yarn is aligned with the formation position. The yarn may be introduced with a handle and knitted in the same manner as described above.

(Example)
Using a Russell machine equipped with a jacquard kite, using a 44dtex / 51f nylon thread for the ground strip L1, knitting with a chain stitch structure of 0, 2/2, 0 / ... Using 44dtex polyurethane yarn as the core yarn and 17dtex / 6f nylon processed yarn double wound elastic covering yarn, transition to adjacent wale like 4, 4/0, 0 / ... Then, insert knitting with a thin jacquard structure that will be restored in the next course, using 130 dtex polyurethane yarn for the back collar L3, and using a 2,2 / 0,0 / ... The knitting was organized. In addition to the fabric part of the above-mentioned knitted fabric, an elastic covering yarn made of double-wrapped 22dtex / 6f nylon yarn is used for the handle as a stretchable function addition part. In the first part, the structure shown in FIG. 15 (a), that is, a structure that repeats 10-way lateral movement such as 20, 20/0, 0 /..., And in the second part, the structure shown in FIG. ), That is, 20/20/0, 0/0, 0/20, 20 / ... 10 wales move horizontally, go up one course on the same wales, then 10 wool in the original wales position In the third part, the structure shown in FIG. 15C, that is, 20, 20/18, 18/20, 20/20, 20/0, 0/0, 0/2, 2 / Move 10 wales sideways, like 0,0 / ... 3 After up course, in the 10 wales traverse tissue to the original wale position, knitted by inserting spaced apart by 8 wales at a plurality of pattern guide bars. For each of the fabric portion of the knitted fabric thus obtained and the first portion, the second portion, and the third portion of the stretchable function adding portion, the stretchability test of the background was performed, and the stretch rate and the tension force were measured. The results are shown in Table 1 below.

(Comparative example)
For comparison, the ground knitting is knitted with the same structure using the same yarn as in the above embodiment, and the elastic covering yarn similar to that in the above embodiment is used all-in as a stretch function adding portion on one ground. 2, 2/0, 0 /... The stretch function addition part of the knitted lace fabric thus obtained was also subjected to a process of stretchability to measure the stretch rate and the tension. The results are also shown in Table 1 below.

Elasticity test method About the fabric part of the lace knitted fabric and the elastic function addition part of the above example and the lace knitted fabric of the comparative example, each was cut into a width of 2.5 cm and a length of 16 cm. A tensile test was performed by attaching to a tensile tester at a tensile interval of 10 cm and setting a tensile and relaxation rate to 10 cm ± 1 cm / min. The elongation rate was calculated by the amount of elongation of the sample ÷ 10 (original tensile interval) × 100. Further, the tension force was a value of 30% relaxation after repeating 80% elongation three times.

  As is apparent from the above, the stretchable function adding portion according to the present invention can change the stretchable function in stages, and in particular has a high extensibility in the weft direction and a large tension.

  The partially stretchable raschel lace knitted fabric of the present invention can be suitably used for foundations such as shorts, girdles and brassieres, lingerie such as slips and camisole and other underwear for women, sportswear and outerwear.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS FIG. 1 is a partial schematic plan view showing a partially stretchable raschel lace fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention. It is a knitting | organization organization chart of a part of lace fabric same as the above. It is the structure | tissue figure (lapping figure) which decomposed | disassembled each wrinkle except the handle | claw for a part yarn handle yarn of the knitting structure same as the above. It is a structure | tissue chart which shows the other example of the insertion form of the elastic thread | yarn guide | induced by each ground L3 of (a) and (b). It is a schematic plan view which shows an example of the expansion-contraction function addition part of the partial expansion-contraction change raschel lace fabric of this invention. It is a schematic plan view showing another example of the expansion / contraction function adding part of the partial expansion / contraction change raschel lace fabric of the present invention. It is an organization chart of the 2nd elastic yarn which forms the expansion-contraction function addition part same as the above. It is a schematic plan view showing still another example of the expansion / contraction function adding portion of the partial expansion / contraction change raschel lace fabric of the present invention. It is an organization chart of the 2nd elastic yarn which forms the expansion-contraction function addition part same as the above. It is a schematic plan view showing still another example of the expansion / contraction function adding portion of the partial expansion / contraction change raschel lace fabric of the present invention. It is a schematic plan view showing still another example of the expansion / contraction function adding portion of the partial expansion / contraction change raschel lace fabric of the present invention. It is an organization chart of the 2nd elastic yarn which forms the expansion-contraction function addition part same as the above. It is a schematic perspective view which shows the usage example in the brassiere of the partial expansion-contraction change raschel lace fabric same as the above. (A) It is the schematic perspective view which shows the usage example (a) in the shorts of the partial expansion-contraction change raschel lace fabric same as each of (b), and the usage example (b) in the girdle. (A) (b) It is a figure which shows the structure | tissue of the 1st part (a), 2nd part (b), and 3rd part (c) of the additional elastic yarn in each Example of (c). It is a knitting | organization organization chart of a part of raschel lace fabric provided with the conventional expansion-contraction function addition part.

Explanation of symbols

  A ... Lace knitted fabric, 1 ... stitch forming yarn, 2 ... insertion yarn, 3 ... elastic yarn of ground knitting, Y (Y1, Y2, Y3, Y4, Y5, Y6) ... additional elastic yarn, L1 ... stitch forming yarn , L2... Ground yarn for introducing insertion yarn (Jacquard heel), L3... Ground for guiding elastic yarn, P1, P2, P3, P4, P5, P6. A handle that guides the additional elastic yarns that form.

Claims (8)

A ground knitting is knitted by an inelastic yarn that is knitted by a Russell machine and guided by one or more pieces of ground and an elastic yarn that is guided by one or more other portions of the ground, and by a handle In a warp knitted fabric in which an arbitrary pattern is constituted by a pattern yarn to be introduced,
In addition to the elastic yarn of the above-mentioned knitting, additional elastic yarns are guided by a plurality of handle knives and inserted and knitted, so that other functions such as stretchability and elastic force can be added to the parts required for use. A partial expansion / contraction change raschel, characterized in that an extension / contraction function addition portion different from the portion is formed, and the additional elastic yarn of the extension / contraction function addition portion includes a lateral swing insertion portion extending over 3 wales Lace knitted fabric.   2. The partial expansion / contraction change raschel according to claim 1, wherein the expansion / contraction function adding portion is formed by changing an expansion / contraction function and / or shape such as extensibility and expansion / contraction force in at least one direction of the process according to usage requirements. Lace knitted fabric.   In the portion where the soft stretchability is required in the stretchable function adding portion, the additional elastic yarn guided by the handle has a number less than the maximum width of the stretchable function added portion and at least one. The partial stretch-change raschel lace knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the knitted fabric is inserted and knitted so as not to cause overlapping of the laterally swinging portions between the wales.   The partial elastic change raschel lace fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the additional elastic yarn guided by a handle is an elastic covering yarn.   The knitted fabric is knitted by a Russell machine equipped with a jacquard reed, and in addition to the elastic yarn of the ground knitting, another elastic covering yarn is inserted by the jacquard reed to form a ground knitted portion in a net shape or a plain shape The partial stretch-change raschel lace knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the stretch elasticity of the process is given.   The stretchable function adding portion is formed so as to form at least one of a strip shape extending continuously or partially in the knitting direction, a repeated or continuous pattern set of small patterns, or a geometric pattern. The partial expansion-contraction change raschel lace fabric of any one of -5. With the Russell machine, the inelastic yarn is introduced by one or more pieces of ground, the elastic yarn is introduced by one or more pieces of other ground, and the structure of the knitted fabric is knitted. In the manufacturing method of the warp knitted fabric knitted to form an arbitrary pattern by introducing the yarn,
In addition to the elastic yarn of the above-mentioned knitted fabric, additional elastic yarn is introduced and knitted by introducing a plurality of handle knives, so that other functions such as stretchability and elastic force can be added to the parts required for use. A stretchable function adding portion that is different from the portion is formed, and the additional elastic yarn of the stretchable function added portion is knitted by inserting and swinging over 3 wales or more at an arbitrary course position. Manufacturing method of partially stretchable raschel lace fabric. A plurality of additional elastic yarns to be inserted into the expansion / contraction function adding portion with a handle, by appropriately changing the swing width and the swing position of each lateral insertion at an arbitrary course position according to a required expansion / contraction function The method for producing a partially stretchable raschel lace knitted fabric according to claim 7, wherein the stretchable function adding portion is knitted so as to change a stretch function and / or shape such as stretchability and stretch force.

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