JP3817690B2 - Elastic warp knitted fabric for clothing - Google Patents

Description

【００３９】
表１において、地筬（Ｌ3 ）によりフルセットで導糸する伸縮性糸については、１５５dtexの糸を用い、コース方向における各領域（１）〜（５）において、コース方向の単位長当たりの本数を変化させる。例えば、表１のように、図１における領域（１）と領域（５）では伸縮性糸を２本ずつ引き揃えて導糸し、領域（２）及び領域（３）では１針毎に交互に２本と１本を導糸し、領域（４）では１本ずつを導糸して編成する。すなわち、地筬（Ｌ3 ）により導糸される伸縮性糸のコース方向の単位長当たりの本数が、領域（１）と領域（５）で最も多くなって経方向の伸縮パワーが強くなり、領域（４）では最も少なくなって経方向の伸縮パワーも弱くなる。また前記領域（２）と領域（３）では前記領域（１）（５）と領域（４）の中間の本数で経方向の伸縮パワーも中間的なものとなる。
【００４０】
また、地筬（Ｌ4 ）によりフルセットで導糸して横振り挿入する伸縮性糸については、各領域（１）〜（５）でそれぞれ１本ずつを導糸して、コース方向の所要個所で使用する糸の太さを変化させる。例えば、表１のように、一方の側端部の領域（１）とこれに隣接する領域（２）では７８dtexの糸を用い、他の各領域（３）〜（５）では４４dtexの糸を用いて編成する。すなわち、地筬（Ｌ4 ）で導糸される伸縮性糸による伸縮パワーや伸長性、特には編地緯方向（コース方向）の伸縮パワー及び伸長性が、該伸縮性糸の太さの差異により領域（１）（２）と領域（３）〜（５）とで異なり、領域（１）（２）のほうが領域（３）〜（５）よりも伸縮パワー、特に緯方向の伸縮パワーが大きくなる。
【００４１】
このように、地筬（Ｌ3 ）により導糸される伸縮性糸の本数の変化と、地筬（Ｌ4 ）により導糸される伸縮性糸の太さの変化の組合せにより、コース方向つまりは編地緯方向における所要の領域（１）〜（５）毎に、それぞれ伸縮パワー及び伸長性等の特性を適宜変化させることができる。
【００４２】
なお、上記とは逆に地筬（Ｌ3 ）により導糸される伸縮性糸について、コース方向でその太さを変化させ、地筬（Ｌ4 ）により導糸される伸縮性糸のコース方向の単位長当たりの本数を変化させることもできる。また、地筬（Ｌ3 ）と地筬（Ｌ4 ）により導糸される伸縮性糸の少なくとも一方について、その糸の太さと本数の双方を変化させることも、さらに、一方の伸縮性糸のみについて伸縮性糸の太さ及び／又は本数を変化させることもできる。これらの使用する糸自体の太さや本数及びその変化は、前記表１の例のものに限らず、衣料としての使用において要求される伸縮パワーや伸長性等の特性及び体型補整機能等に応じて適宜設定できる。
【００４３】
また、ジャカード筬（Ｌ1 ）により導糸する非伸縮性糸については、ジャカード制御による柄編組織つまり穴地、薄地、厚地の各組織を少なくとも編地経方向（編方向）の所要の領域個所で適宜変化させる。特に編地の全幅あるいは編地緯方向(編幅方向)の所定の範囲の編組織を変化させる。
【００４４】
例えば、図１のように、編幅方向における一部または全部の所要の領域について、経方向の所要の個所において、薄地組織による生地部（Ａ１）、穴地組織によるネット状生地部（Ａ２）、厚地組織の生地部（Ａ３）を適宜変化させる。編幅方向においても、所要の個所で変化させることができる。この際、編組織を変化させるコース位置及び幅方向のウエール位置は、使用する衣料の形態、編成する柄や使用上の要求等に応じて適宜設定でき、この組織変化のラインを図のように傾斜させたり折曲させたりするほか、カーブさせたり曲線状とする等、任意の形状とすることができる。また、薄地組織、穴地組織及び厚地組織等の組み合わせによる柄部（Ｂ）は、前記の薄地組織の生地部（Ａ１）、穴地組織のネット状生地部（Ａ２）あるいは厚地組織の生地部（Ａ３）の部分に適宜形成できる。この柄部の範囲、形状、位置等は任意に設定できる。
【００４５】
これにより、穴地組織によるネット状生地部（Ａ２）は、薄地組織の生地部（Ａ１）に比して伸長性、特には緯方向の伸長性が大きくなり、また薄地組織の生地部（Ａ１）では、ネット状生地部（Ａ２）よりも伸長性が抑えられ、厚地組織の生地部（Ａ３）では組織的に更に伸長性が抑えられることになる。
【００４６】
したがって、この編組織の変化による伸長性及び伸長性抑制等の変化と、上記した地編組織における伸縮性糸のコース方向での特性の変化による伸縮パワーや伸長性の変化との組合せにより、経緯の少なくとも一方向の伸縮パワー及び伸長性に多様な変化を与えることができる。
【００４７】
例えば、伸縮性糸の太さや本数により特性を変化させた編地緯方向の領域（１）〜（５）の各々の中でも、それぞれ伸縮パワー及び伸長性を異にする前記生地部（Ａ１）とネット状生地部（Ａ２）及び厚地組織の生地部（Ａ３）の各領域部分で経緯少なくとも一方向の伸縮パワー及び/又は伸長性に差が生じることになる。
【００４８】
そのため、前記の伸縮パワー及び伸張性の少なくとも一方を異にする前記の各領域を、該編地を型取りし、縫製して衣料に使用した場合の形態に応じて、体型補整や機能性及び体型への適応性等を考慮して設定しておくことにより、使用形態上の必要に応じた所定の伸縮パワー及び伸長性を付与することができる。
【００４９】
すなわち、下着等の衣料での使用において、体型補整のために必要とされる所望の部位、あるいは体型の膨らみ部に対応する部位等の必要部分に、それぞれ必要な伸縮パワーや伸長性を有する領域を設けることができる。例えば、前記の領域のうちの伸縮パワーの大きい領域を、衣料に使用した場合において体型に応じた補整機能を発揮するように設定しておくことができる。また、前記領域のうちの伸長性の大きい領域を、衣料に使用した場合において体型の膨らみ部分に対応する部位に設定しておくことができる。
【００５０】
具体例について説明すると、上記のようにして得られる経編地（Ａ）を、図５に例示するボディスーツに編方向を緯向きにして使用する場合において、その体型に応じて、例えばウエストに相当する部位（ａ）には、該ウエストを引き締めることができるように、薄地組織による生地部（Ａ１）の中の伸縮パワーの大きい領域、特に地筬（Ｌ3 ）の伸縮性糸による編地経方向の伸縮パワーの大きい領域を設定する。またウエストや下方のヒップ上部の部位（ｂ）には、薄地組織による生地部（Ａ１）の中でも地筬（Ｌ4 ）の伸縮性糸による編地緯方向の伸縮パワーの大きい領域を設け、その伸縮パワーによる編地緯方向のパワーでヒップ部を緩く持ち上げる効果が得られるようにする。また、下腹部に相当する下方の部位（ｃ）には伸縮パワーが前記よりさらに弱い領域を、また後側のヒップ部に相当する部位には伸長性の大きい領域、例えば穴地組織によるネット状生地部（Ａ２）等の領域を設定し、さらに下縁側の股刳り部（ｄ）には編地経方向の伸縮パワーが大きい領域を設定する。バスト部に相当する部位（ｅ）には、バストの膨らみに応じて大きい伸長性を有する領域、好ましくは段階的に伸長性や伸縮パワーを変化させた領域を設定する。また、上縁部にも必要に応じて伸縮パワーの大きい領域を設定する。
【００５１】
さらに、ヒップアップ機能やバストアップ機能を強調する場合は、前記ヒップ部の下部に沿って湾曲しさらに脇部にかけて延びる伸縮パワーの大きい帯状の領域を設定したり、バスト部の下部に沿って湾曲状をなす伸縮パワーの大きい領域を設定することもできる。
【００５２】
これにより、ボディスーツに使用した場合において、体型に応じた所望の伸縮パワーや伸長性を与えることができ、身体へのフィット性をよくし、良好な体型補整機能を発揮できることになる。
【００５３】
また、図１のような経編地（Ａ）を、図６に例示するロングタイプのガードルに使用する場合において、ウエスト部や裾縁部あるいはヒップ下部に相当する部位に、それぞれ比較的伸縮パワーの大きい領域を配し、ヒップの膨らみに相当する部位には、伸長性の大きい領域を配する。
【００５４】
これにより、ガードルに使用した場合において、当て布を使用することなく、体型に応じた所望の伸縮パワーや伸長性を与えることができ、身体へのフィット性をよくし、良好な体型補整機能を発揮できる。ショーツやブラジャーなどの他の衣料に使用する場合も同様に、使用上の必要部分にそれぞれ必要とする伸縮パワーや伸長性を有する領域を設定して実施することができる。
【００５５】
なお、前記伸縮性糸等の糸の太さや本数等により伸縮パワーや伸長性等の特性を変化させる領域のコース方向の範囲や区分数については、使用する衣料の形態や種類、及び使用上の要求等に応じて適宜設定できる。さらに必要に応じて、該領域をウエール方向で幅を変化させることも、またカーブさせることも可能である。例えば、編地の両側端部を小さいカーブの略波形状のスカラップが形成されている場合、あるいは大きいカーブの湾曲状等の曲線形状をなすように形成されている場合、該曲線形状に対応した任意のカーブを付けることができる。また、伸縮性糸としての材質を部分的に変更して伸縮パワーや伸長性を変化させることもできる。この糸の太さや材質等については、衣料としての用途及び要求される伸縮パワーや伸長性に応じて編組織や密度と関連して適宜設定できる。また、カバーリング糸等の伸縮性糸を用いて編成することもできる。
【００５６】
また、地編組織としては、図２及び図３で例示するものに限らず、サテン編、デンビ編、プレーンコード編、チュール編あるいはメッシュ調の組織やネット組織等を基本とする種々の編組織による実施が可能である。この場合においても、コース方向の所定の領域で使用糸の太さや単位長当たりの本数あるいはその双方を変化させて、伸縮パワーや伸長性を変化させることができる。この地編組織を所要の個所で変化させることにより、伸縮パワーや伸長性を変化させることもこともできる。また、筬（Ｌ5 ）による挿入糸を省略することもできる。
【００５７】
さらに、前記の経編地において、例えば地筬（Ｌ3 ）（Ｌ4 ）により導糸する伸縮性糸について、太さや材質によって伸縮パワー及び／又は伸長性を異にする複数の糸を所要ウエール分ずつ配して導糸することにより、前記領域（１）〜（５）の間で経緯の少なくとも一方向の伸縮パワー及び／又は伸長性を徐々に、または段階的に変化させることができる。これにより、下着等の衣料での使用における必要部分に、体型に応じた例えば丸みのある体型に対して必要かつ良好な体型補整機能を与えることができる。
【００５８】
さらにまた、前記の経編地（Ａ）において、地編組織を構成する糸、すなわち地筬（Ｌ2 ）（Ｌ3 ）（Ｌ4 ）（Ｌ5 ）により導糸する非伸縮性糸や伸縮性糸及び／又は柄を構成する糸の編成部分への供給部において、多段送り装置を利用して供給量を変化させ、例えば、編目形成する地筬（Ｌ2 ）により導糸する糸のループの長さに変化を与えるとともに、これに対応して他の糸の供給量を変化させることにより、部分的に経緯少なくとも１方向の伸縮パワー及び／又は伸長性を変化させることができる。これにより、上記の糸の太さや本数等による特性の変化と編組織の変化とによる伸縮パワーや伸長性の変化と組み合わされて、編地全体としてさらに多様な変化を与えることが可能になる。
【００５９】
また、前記経編地（Ａ）の編成において、ジャカード筬（Ｌ1 ）により導糸する糸に、カバーリング糸等の伸縮性糸を用いることもでき、この場合、この伸縮性糸についても、前記のような変速送りで伸縮パワーや伸長性を部分的に変化させることが可能になり、さらにバリエーションに富んだ製品を得ることができる。
【００６０】
【発明の効果】
上記したように本発明のレース編地等の伸縮性経編地によれば、経緯両方向の伸縮性を有するものにおいて、地編組織に使用する伸縮性糸による特性の変化と、編組織の変化との組合せにより、少なくとも編地緯方向の伸縮パワー及び伸長性を変化させたもので、これにより女性用下着等の衣料としての使用において必要な伸縮パワー及び伸長性を付与でき、外観的体裁を損なうことなく、身体へのフィット性をよくし、かつ良好な体型補整機能を発揮できる。
【００６１】
また、前記伸縮パワー及び伸長性の変化は、同一のウエールに挿入される伸縮性糸と複数ウエールにわたって横振りして挿入されるか又は編み込まれる伸縮性糸のうち、少なくとも横振りされる伸縮性糸のコース方向での糸の太さの変化やコース方向の単位長あたりの本数の変化等の糸の変化と、編組織の変化との組合せによるものであるため、編成上における変化領域の設定及び伸縮パワーや伸長性の強弱の設定が容易であり、しかもその変化を極めて多様化でき、バリエーションに富んだ体型補整機能を発揮できる。
【００６２】
特に、左右に数ウエールにわたって横振り挿入される伸縮性糸の太さ及び本数の少なくとも一方を変えてその特性を変化させるようにした場合は、編地緯方向の伸縮パワー及び／又は伸長性を変化させることができ、ひいては経緯の両方向について所望の伸縮パワーや伸長性を得ることができ、衣料に使用した場合の体型補整機能を良好に発揮できるものになる。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図１】 本発明に係る伸縮性経編地の１実施例を示す平面図である。
【図２】 同上の経編地の地編組織の１例を示す各筬のラッピング組織図である。
【図３】 同上の経編地の地編組織の他の例を示す各筬のラッピング組織図である。
【図４】 同上の経編地のジャカード編の変化例を示すラッピング図である。
【図５】 同上の経編地の使用例を示す略示斜視図である。
【図６】 同上の経編地の他の使用例を示す略示斜視図である。
【符号の説明】
（Ａ） 伸縮性経編地
（Ｌ1 ） ジャカード筬
（Ｌ2 ）（Ｌ3 ）（Ｌ4 ） 地筬
（Ａ１） 薄地組織による生地部
（Ａ２） 穴地組織によるネット状生地部
（Ａ３） 厚地組織による生地部
（Ｂ） 柄部
（１）（２）（３）（４）（５） 各領域[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
  The present invention mainly relates to a stretch warp knitted fabric for clothing suitably used for foundations such as shorts, girdles and bras, lingerie and other women's underwear such as slips and camisole, or sportswear and outerwear. is there.
[0002]
[Prior art and problems to be solved by the invention]
  Conventionally, warp knitted fabrics such as elastic knitted fabrics are often used in women's underwear such as girdles, bras and shorts, and sportswear such as body suits, swimwear and leotards.
[0003]
  This stretch warp knitted fabric has a basic structure of satin knitting with chain knitting yarn and insertion yarn, plain cord knitting, denvi knitting, tulle knitting or mesh knitting knitting structure, polyurethane fiber etc. if necessary Spandex yarn and other elastic yarns are knitted or knitted or knitted to form the entire knitted fabric. In general, a so-called jacquard lace pattern formed by a change in thick ground, thin ground, hole or the like by a jacquard guide rod is integrally formed.
[0004]
  The warp knitted fabric has a fine and fine surface, good touch (feel), and stretchability and good fit to the body, mainly requiring stretchability of girdle, brassiere, body suit etc. It is preferably used in women's underwear.
[0005]
  By the way, a stretchable warp knitted fabric such as a conventional jacquard lace fabric has stretch yarns inserted into the entire knitted fabric, and the entire knitted fabric has substantially uniform stretch power and stretchability. When wearing clothes such as girdle and bra made using knitted fabric, the fit is good to some extent, but it does not have a partly large stretch power and stretchability, but the body shape correction function according to the body shape Was not obtained. For this reason, conventionally, another stretch fabric has been sewn as a dressing cloth or the like in order to exert a large body stretching power and stretchability and exert a body shape correction function.
[0006]
  However, clothing that is partially stretched with a stretchable fabric and partially increased or decreased in stretch power has a difference in thickness at the boundary between the part where the patch is present and the part where the patch is not present. It appeared, and it was visible from the outside of the outerwear, and there was a problem that the appearance was remarkably lowered. In addition, there is a problem that the stitched portion becomes hard and the touch becomes worse, and the wearer is uncomfortable.
[0007]
  For this reason, in recent years, it has been proposed to partially increase the stretching power and stretchability of stretchable fabrics by warp knitting without using a batter.
[0008]
  For example, in Japanese Patent Publication No. 7-116663, by partially knitting a non-stretchable yarn and two or more stretchable yarns, a portion having a high stretchability and a portion having a low stretchability are provided. It has been proposed to perform knitting continuously so as not to have a switching unit.
[0009]
  However, in the case of the proposal, there is no step due to switching between the high stretch portion and the low stretch portion, but the high stretch portion and the low stretch portion are knitting directions, that is, warp knitting. Was linear in the wale direction (longitudinal direction), and the body shape correction function was also limited to a linear one, and was unable to exhibit a sufficient function.
[0010]
  Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 12-8203 discloses a knitted fabric such as a lace knitted fabric that is warp knitted with a non-stretchable yarn and a stretchable yarn, according to the demand for strength of stretching power. It has been proposed to change the knitting structure appearing to form a portion having a strong tension (stretching power) due to a change in the structure, and to have a pattern shape in which this strong portion having a strong stretching power is curved.
[0011]
  However, in the case of this proposal, it is due to a change only in the knitting structure, and there is a certain limit to change the stretchability, in particular the stretchability, by changing only this structure. Can not obtain so much extensibility and stretching power as compared with the low stretchable part, and it cannot be said that the body shape correction function is sufficiently satisfactory.
[0012]
  In view of the above, the present invention, in an elastic warp knitted fabric such as this type of lace knitted fabric, by combining the change in the characteristics of the yarn itself and the change in the knitting structure, When the stretchability is changed and used for clothing such as underwear for women, the fit to the body and the body shape correcting function can be surely exhibited according to the form.
[0013]
  The present invention is an elastic warp knitted fabric for clothing, which is knitted by a warp knitting machine equipped with a jacquard fold and inserted into the same wale in a zigzag shape in the ground knitting structure, and several whales on the left and right A stretchable warp knitted fabric having a jacquard pattern that is provided with stretchable yarns that are inserted or knitted in a horizontal direction so that the entire knitted fabric is stretchable in both directions of weft and has a jacquard pattern. At least of the elastic yarns in the tissueInserted sideways or knittedStretching power and / or stretching in the knitted fabric weft direction with stretchable yarnSexBy combining the change in characteristics and the change in the knitting structure due to the thick, thin, or perforated jacquard pattern, at least one of the stretching power and stretchability is appropriately changed, and the stretching power and / or stretchability is made different. While providing several area | regions, these area | regions were set according to the form at the time of using for clothing, and the predetermined expansion / contraction power and the extensibility according to the need on the usage form were provided, It is characterized by the above-mentioned.
[0014]
  According to this warp knitted fabricIn what has elasticity in both directionsAreas with different stretching power and / or stretchabilityThat you setBy using a stretch fabric application cloth on a required part according to the form when used for clothing, for example, a desired part that requires adaptability to the body shape correction function or body shape when used as a female underwear Not only that, the necessary stretching power and extensibility can be imparted. Therefore, in use in clothing such as underwear, the fit to the body can be improved and the compensation function according to the body shape can be exhibited without impairing the appearance.
[0015]
  In addition, the change in stretch power and stretchability is due to stretch power and stretch caused by stretch yarns inserted or knitted into the ground knitting structure.SexBecause it is a combination of changes in characteristics and changes in the knitting structure such as thick, thin, and hole fabrics in the jacquard pattern, the setting of the change area on the knitting and the setting of the strength of stretch power and the size of stretch Changes are easy and can also be diversified.
[0016]
  That is, the stretchability of the jacquard pattern hole portion, particularly the stretchability in the weft direction, is increased, and the stretchability in the weft direction is systematically suppressed in the thin and thick portions. Therefore, the combination of the change in stretchability due to the knitting structure and the change in stretch power and stretchability in at least one direction due to changes in the material can give various changes in the stretch power and stretchability of the background. In use in apparel such as underwear, a desired body shape correcting function and extensibility can be imparted to a portion required according to the body shape.
  Of the plurality of regions having different stretching power and / or stretchability, it is also easy to set a region having a large stretching power so as to exhibit a correction function according to the body shape when used for clothing. Is possible. Thus, the body shape correcting function can be satisfactorily exhibited in use in clothing.
[0017]
  Of the plurality of regions having different stretching power and / or extensibility, a region having high extensibility is set as a portion corresponding to the bulge portion of the body shape in the form when used for clothing. You can also. Thereby, the adaptability with respect to the body shape at the time of using for clothing can be improved.
[0018]
  In the warp knitted fabric, the elastic yarn in the ground knitting structure is knitted by changing at least one of the thickness and the number of yarns at a required region in the knitted fabric weft direction. The extensibility can be changed.
[0019]
  That is, for example, a thick thread having a large expansion power is used as a stretchable thread for a part that requires expansion power, and a thin thread having a small expansion power is used as a stretchable thread for a part that does not require a large expansion power. . Thereby, the expansion / contraction power can be changed at a required region in the knitted fabric weft direction, and a strong portion and a weak portion can be formed. Moreover, even if the yarns have the same thickness, the expansion / contraction power can be changed by changing the number of yarns to be inserted. Further, the combination of the thickness of the yarn and the number of yarns can make a difference in the expansion / contraction power in at least one direction of the process. Thereby, various expansion-contraction power can be obtained. Similarly, the stretchability of the knitted fabric can be changed by using stretchable yarns having different stretchability.
[0020]
  In particular, in a ground knitting structure, an elastic yarn that is laterally inserted across several wales to the left and right with respect to a chain knitting wale changes at least one of the thickness and the number of yarns at a required region in the knitted fabric weft direction. When knitting, it is possible to change the stretching power and / or stretchability in the weft direction., HiThe expansion and contraction power in both directionsAndThe extensibility can be changed.
[0021]
  In the warp knitted fabric, at least one of the stretching power and the stretchability can be changed at least in a required region in the warp direction by changing the knitting structure.
[0022]
  In the warp knitted fabric, the stretching power and / or stretchability in at least one direction of the warp can be changed gradually or stepwise. Thereby, the necessary and favorable body shape correction function and extensibility according to a body shape can be given to the required part in use with clothing, such as underwear.
[0023]
  In the warp knitted fabric described above, by changing the supply amount to the knitting portion of the yarn constituting the ground knitting structure including the elastic yarn and / or the pattern, in a required portion in at least one direction of the warp The expansion / contraction power and / or stretchability in at least one direction of the process can be changed. Thereby, it becomes possible to give the knitted fabric as a whole more various changes in combination with the above-mentioned changes in the material and changes in stretch power and stretchability due to changes in the knitting structure.
[0024]
  Furthermore, on the back side of the stretch warp knitted fabric, the inserted yarn made of natural fibers and synthetic fibers that are inserted into the knitted chain wales for each required course and knitted, and released to the back side therebetween, is arranged. Can be. Thereby, the free part of the said free insertion thread appears in the back surface side which touches skin in use by clothing. Therefore, in the case of a flexible thread made of natural fibers such as cotton or wool or synthetic fibers as this insertion thread, it exhibits a soft tactile feel, texture and appearance.
[0025]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
  Next, embodiments of the present invention will be described based on examples shown in the drawings.
[0026]
  FIG. 1 is a schematic plan view showing an embodiment of a stretch warp knitted fabric according to the present invention, FIG. 2 is a wrapping structure diagram of each heel showing an example of a knitting structure, and FIG. 3 is another example of a knitting structure. Fig. 4 is a wrapping diagram for explaining an example of changes in jacquard knitting, Fig. 5 is a schematic perspective view showing an example of use of the warp knitted fabric, and Fig. 6 is another example of use. FIG.
[0027]
  The warp knitted fabric (A) of this example isTheThe warp knitting machine includes at least one jacquard guide rod whose movement is controlled by the jacquard device.
[0028]
  In this embodiment, a non-stretchable yarn and a stretchable yarn are used as the constituent yarns, and one jacquard kite (L1), three cords (L2) (L3) (L4), and A case where knitting is performed by a warp knitting machine provided with a hook (L5) for insertion yarn will be described as an example.
[0029]
  In FIG. 1, (A1), (A2), and (A3) show each part with different knitting structures such as thin fabrics, hole fabrics, and thick fabrics by jacquard knitting, among which (A1) is a fabric portion by thin fabrics, (A2) shows a net-like cloth portion formed by a holed area structure, and (A3) shows a cloth part formed by a thick cloth structure. (B) shows the handle. In the same figure, each area (1), (2), (3), (4), and (5) divided by a one-dot chain line is a required area in the course direction (knitting width direction) as will be described later. The area | region which changed characteristics, such as the expansion-contraction power of the thread | yarn used by 1 and an extendibility, is shown.
[0030]
  The warp knitted fabric (A) is basically composed of a non-stretchable yarn such as a synthetic fiber on one base (L2) as shown in the wrapping structure chart shown in FIG. 2 or FIG. In the chain knitting, in which a full set of yarns is introduced and stitches are formed with the same wale, or stitches are formed by shifting to the adjacent wale for each required course, and then returning to the original wale to form the stitches. Form a fabric stitch. In the other two pieces of ground (L3) (L4), stretch yarns such as spandex yarns of polyurethane fiber are introduced in a full set. Is inserted into the same wale in a zigzag shape, and the ground (L4) is inserted horizontally between two adjacent wales.
[0031]
  In the case of the ground knitting structure shown in FIGS. 2 and 3, the warp direction stretchability is imparted by the stretchable yarn introduced by the base (L3), and the stretch is introduced by the base (L4). The stretchability in the weft direction is mainly given by the sex yarn.
[0032]
  Further, by using the jacquard rod (L1), the same non-stretchable yarn is introduced basically as a pattern constituting yarn, and the jacquard control is performed based on the thin ground structure shown in FIG. 4 (b). By an appropriate combination of the hole structure shown in (a) of the figure and the thick structure shown in (c) of the figure, any pattern such as a lace tone, for example, a thin structure shown in FIG. A fabric portion (A1), a net-like fabric portion (A2) formed by a perforated structure, and a fabric portion (A3) of a thick fabric structure are formed, and a pattern portion (B) is formed by a combination of these structures.
[0033]
  Accordingly, as a basic configuration of the warp knitted fabric (A), the warp knitted fabric has a jacquard lace pattern, and the entire knitted fabric is stretched in both the weft and warp directions by the stretchable yarn inserted by the above-described ground (L3) (L4). It becomes a knitted fabric to which sex is given.
[0034]
  In addition, for the insertion yarn (L5), yarn made of natural fiber or synthetic fiber such as cotton or wool is introduced according to the purpose, and the chain knitting wales are made in one or several courses every required course. On the other hand, it is inserted in a zigzag manner and locked to the stitches, and between the locking part (50) and the locking part (50), the knitting is performed so that it is released from the wale and appears on the back side. As a result, a loose portion (51) of the insertion yarn appears on the back side of the knitted fabric, and has a characteristic of the insertion yarn and exhibits a unique feel, feel or texture.
[0035]
  In addition, a substantially wave-shaped scallop in which crests and troughs are alternately connected as shown in the figure can be formed on one side end or both side ends of the warp knitted fabric (A). Thus, the scallop can be used as it is on the edge of the clothing. Of course, it may be a straight edge.
[0036]
  In the case of the warp knitted fabric (A) according to the present invention, the basic structure of the knitted fabric as described above is the change in characteristics such as the stretch power and stretchability of the yarn in the knitted fabric weft direction, that is, Changes in properties such as stretch power and stretchability of the non-stretchable yarns that make up the knitted fabric and the yarns that make up the stretchable yarns and patterns,TajiIn combination with the change of the knitting structure such as the pattern knitting structure by the card control, at least one of the stretching power and the extensibility is appropriately changed to provide a plurality of regions having different stretching power and / or extensibility. Set according to the form when the region is used for clothing, that is, the form taking into account the mold making and sewing for making the garment from the knitted fabric, and the predetermined expansion and contraction as required for the required part on the use form Gives power and extensibility.
[0037]
  One example will be described based on FIG. 1 and Table 1 below.
[0038]
[Table 1]

[0039]
  In Table 1, for elastic yarns guided in full set by ground (L3), 155 dtex yarn was used, and the number per unit length in the course direction in each region (1) to (5) in the course direction To change. For example, as shown in Table 1, in the region (1) and the region (5) in FIG. 1, two stretch yarns are drawn and aligned, and in the region (2) and the region (3), one needle is alternated. Two yarns and one yarn are introduced to each other, and in the region (4), one yarn is introduced and knitted one by one. That is, the number of stretchable yarns per unit length in the course direction of the stretchable yarn introduced by the ground (L3) is the largest in the regions (1) and (5), and the warp-direction stretching power is increased. In (4), it becomes the smallest and the stretching power in the warp direction becomes weak. In the region (2) and the region (3), the number of intermediate expansion / contraction powers is intermediate between the regions (1), (5), and the region (4).
[0040]
  In addition, for stretchable yarns that are introduced in the full set by the ground (L4) and then swayed and inserted, one yarn is introduced in each of the regions (1) to (5), and the required part in the course direction. Change the thickness of the thread used in. For example, as shown in Table 1, 78 dtex yarn is used in one side end region (1) and the adjacent region (2), and 44 dtex yarn is used in the other regions (3) to (5). Use to organize. That is, the stretching power and stretchability of the stretchable yarn guided by the ground (L4), particularly the stretch power and stretchability in the knitted fabric weft direction (course direction) are due to the difference in the thickness of the stretchable yarn. The regions (1) and (2) are different from the regions (3) to (5), and the regions (1) and (2) have a larger expansion power, particularly in the weft direction than the regions (3) to (5). Become.
[0041]
  As described above, the course direction, that is, the knitting is determined by the combination of the change in the number of elastic yarns introduced by the ground (L3) and the change in the thickness of the elastic yarns introduced by the ground (L4). For each of the required regions (1) to (5) in the ground direction, characteristics such as expansion power and stretchability can be appropriately changed.
[0042]
  Contrary to the above, for the stretchable yarn guided by the ground (L3), the thickness of the stretchable yarn guided by the ground (L4) is changed in the course direction. You can also change the number per long. In addition, it is possible to change both the thickness and the number of the elastic yarn introduced by the ground (L3) and the ground (L4), and it is possible to expand / contract only one elastic yarn. It is also possible to change the thickness and / or the number of sex yarns. The thickness and number of yarns to be used and the change thereof are not limited to those in the examples in Table 1, but depending on characteristics such as stretch power and stretchability required for use as clothing, body shape correction functions, and the like. It can be set appropriately.
[0043]
  In addition, for non-stretchable yarns guided by jacquard rivets (L1), at least a knitted pattern knitted structure by jacquard control, that is, each structure of hole, thin and thickKnitted fabricIt is appropriately changed at a required region in the warp direction (knitting direction). In particular, the entire knitted fabric or the knitted structure within a predetermined range in the knitted fabric weft direction (knitting width direction) is changed.
[0044]
  For example, as shown in FIG. 1, with respect to a part or all of the required region in the knitting width direction, at a required portion in the warp direction, a fabric portion (A1) made of a thin fabric structure and a net-like fabric portion (A2) made of a hole fabric structure The fabric part (A3) of the thick tissue is appropriately changed. Also in the knitting width direction, it can be changed at a required portion. At this time, the course position for changing the knitting structure and the wale position in the width direction can be appropriately set according to the form of clothing to be used, the pattern to be knitted, the usage requirements, etc. In addition to inclining or bending, it can be of any shape, such as curved or curved. In addition, the handle portion (B) formed by a combination of a thin tissue, a hole tissue, a thick tissue, and the like includes the fabric portion (A1) of the thin tissue, the net-like fabric portion (A2) of the hole tissue, or the fabric portion of the thick tissue. It can form suitably in the part of (A3). The range, shape, position, etc. of the handle can be arbitrarily set.
[0045]
  As a result, the net-like fabric portion (A2) formed by the perforated structure is more extensible, particularly in the weft direction, than the fabric portion (A1) of the thin tissue, and the thin fabric structure (A1). ), The extensibility is suppressed more than that of the net-like cloth portion (A2), and the extensibility is further suppressed systematically in the cloth portion (A3) of the thick tissue.
[0046]
  Therefore, the combination of changes in stretchability and stretchability suppression due to the change in the knitting structure, and changes in stretch power and stretchability due to changes in the characteristics of the stretchable yarn in the course direction in the above-described ground knitting structure, It is possible to give various changes to the stretching power and stretchability in at least one direction.
[0047]
  For example, among the regions (1) to (5) of the knitted fabric weft direction in which the characteristics are changed depending on the thickness and number of stretch yarns, the fabric portion (A1) having different stretch power and stretchability, respectively. There will be a difference in stretch power and / or extensibility in at least one direction of background in each region of the net fabric portion (A2) and the thick fabric portion (A3).
[0048]
  Therefore, according to the form in which each of the above-described regions differing in at least one of the expansion / contraction power and the extensibility is obtained by taking the knitted fabric, sewing it, and using it for clothing, body shape correction and functionality and By setting in consideration of adaptability to the body shape and the like, it is possible to impart a predetermined stretch power and stretchability according to the usage requirements.
[0049]
  In other words, in use in clothing such as underwear, areas that have the necessary expansion and contraction power and extensibility, respectively, in desired parts required for body shape correction, or in parts that correspond to the bulges of the body shape Can be provided. For example, it is possible to set so that a region having a large expansion / contraction power among the above regions exhibits a correction function corresponding to the body shape when used for clothing. Moreover, when using the area | region with a large extensibility of the said area | region for clothing, it can set to the site | part corresponding to the bulging part of a body shape.
[0050]
  A specific example will be described. When the warp knitted fabric (A) obtained as described above is used in the body suit illustrated in FIG. In the corresponding part (a), a region having a large stretch power in the fabric portion (A1) by the thin fabric structure, in particular, a knitted fabric warp by stretch yarn of the ground fabric (L3) so that the waist can be tightened Set an area with a large expansion / contraction power. Also waistOr belowThe upper hip part (b) is provided with a region having a large stretching power in the weft direction of the fabric (L4) of the fabric (A4) of the thin fabric, and the knitting by the stretching power. The effect of lifting the hips loosely with power in the direction of the ground will be obtained. Further, the lower part (c) corresponding to the lower abdomen has a region where the expansion / contraction power is further weaker than the above, and the part corresponding to the rear hip part is a region having a high extensibility, for example, a net-like shape by a hole tissue. A region such as the fabric portion (A2) is set, and a region having a large stretch power in the warp direction is set in the crotch portion (d) on the lower edge side. In the region (e) corresponding to the bust portion, a region having a large extensibility according to the bulge of the bust, preferably a region in which the extensibility and expansion / contraction power are changed stepwise is set. In addition, a region having a large expansion / contraction power is set in the upper edge portion as necessary.
[0051]
  Furthermore, when emphasizing the hip-up function or bust-up function, a band-like region with a large expansion / contraction power that curves along the lower part of the hip part and extends to the side part is set, or curved along the lower part of the bust part. It is also possible to set a region having a large expansion / contraction power.
[0052]
  Thereby, when used for a body suit, desired stretching power and stretchability according to the body shape can be provided, the fit to the body can be improved, and a good body shape correcting function can be exhibited.
[0053]
  In addition, when the warp knitted fabric (A) as shown in FIG. 1 is used in the long type girdle illustrated in FIG. A region having a large stretchability is disposed, and a region having a large extensibility is disposed in a portion corresponding to the swelling of the hip.
[0054]
  As a result, when it is used for a girdle, it can give the desired stretch power and stretchability according to the body shape without using a patch, improve the fit to the body, and provide a good body shape correction function. Can demonstrate. Similarly, when used for other apparel such as shorts and brassieres, it is possible to carry out by setting the necessary stretchable power and stretchable areas in the necessary parts for use.
[0055]
  In addition, regarding the range in the course direction and the number of sections of the region in which the properties such as stretch power and stretchability are changed depending on the thickness and number of yarns such as the stretch yarn, the form and type of clothing to be used, and the usage It can be set as appropriate according to the request. If necessary, the width of the region can be changed in the wale direction, or the region can be curved. For example, when both sides of the knitted fabric are formed with a substantially curved scallop having a small curve or a curved shape such as a curved shape with a large curve, the shape corresponds to the curved shape. Arbitrary curves can be attached. In addition, the stretchable power and stretchability can be changed by partially changing the material of the stretchable yarn. The thickness, material, and the like of the yarn can be appropriately set in relation to the knitting structure and density according to the use as clothing and the required stretch power and stretchability. It is also possible to knit using a stretchable yarn such as a covering yarn.
[0056]
  The ground knitting organization is not limited to those illustrated in FIGS. 2 and 3, but various knitting organizations based on a satin knitting, a denvi knitting, a plain cord knitting, a tulle knitting, a mesh-like organization, a net organization, or the like Can be implemented. Also in this case, the expansion / contraction power and the stretchability can be changed by changing the thickness of the yarn used and / or the number per unit length in a predetermined region in the course direction. By changing the ground knitting structure at a required location, the stretch power and stretchability can be changed. Also, the insertion thread by the heel (L5) can be omitted.
[0057]
  Further, in the warp knitted fabric, for example, with respect to the stretchable yarn guided by the base (L3) (L4), a plurality of yarns having different stretching power and / or stretchability depending on the thickness and material are provided for each required wale. By arranging and introducing the yarn, the stretching power and / or stretchability in at least one direction of the process can be changed gradually or stepwise between the regions (1) to (5). Thereby, a necessary and favorable body shape correction function can be given to a necessary portion in use in clothing such as underwear, for example, for a body shape having a round shape corresponding to the body shape.
[0058]
  Furthermore, in the warp knitted fabric (A), non-stretchable yarns and / or stretchable yarns introduced by yarns constituting the ground knitted fabric, that is, yarns (L2) (L3) (L4) (L5), and / or Or, in the supply part to the knitting part of the yarn constituting the pattern, the supply amount is changed using a multi-stage feeding device, for example, the length of the yarn loop guided by the ground (L2) for forming the stitch is changed. In addition, by changing the supply amount of other yarns correspondingly, it is possible to partially change the stretching power and / or stretchability in at least one direction. Thereby, it becomes possible to give various changes to the entire knitted fabric in combination with the change in the stretch power and the stretchability due to the change in the characteristics due to the thickness and number of yarns and the change in the knitting structure.
[0059]
  In the knitting of the warp knitted fabric (A), an elastic yarn such as a covering yarn can also be used as a yarn guided by the jacquard kite (L1). It becomes possible to partially change the expansion / contraction power and the extensibility by the above-mentioned speed change feed, and further a product rich in variations can be obtained.
[0060]
【The invention's effect】
  According to the elastic warp knitted fabric such as the lace knitted fabric of the present invention as described above,In what has elasticity in both directions of the background,Use for ground organizationBy elastic yarnBy the combination of changes in characteristics and changes in the knitting structure,At least in the weft directionChange the stretch power and stretchabilityAnd thisStretching power and extensibility required for use as clothing for women's underwear and the like can be imparted, and the fit to the body can be improved and good body shape correcting functions can be exhibited without impairing the appearance.
[0061]
  In addition, the change in stretch power and stretchability isOf elastic yarns inserted into the same wale and elastic yarns inserted or knitted across a plurality of wales, at least of the elastic yarnsThis is due to the combination of changes in the yarn, such as changes in the thickness of the yarn in the course direction, changes in the number of yarns per unit length in the course direction, and changes in the knitting structure. It is easy to set the strength and strength of the power and extensibility, and the changes can be extremely diversified.
[0062]
  In particular, when at least one of the thickness and number of elastic yarns that are horizontally inserted across several wales is changed to change its characteristics, the elastic power and / or extensibility in the weft direction of the knitted fabric is reduced. Thus, desired stretching power and stretchability can be obtained in both directions of the background, and the body shape correction function when used in clothing can be exhibited well.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a plan view showing one embodiment of a stretch warp knitted fabric according to the present invention.
FIG. 2 is a wrapping structure chart of each ridge showing an example of the ground knitting structure of the warp knitted fabric.
FIG. 3 is a wrapping structure chart of each ridge showing another example of the ground knitting structure of the warp knitted fabric.
FIG. 4 is a wrapping diagram showing a variation example of the jacquard knitting of the warp knitted fabric.
FIG. 5 is a schematic perspective view showing an example of use of the above warp knitted fabric.
FIG. 6 is a schematic perspective view showing another example of use of the above warp knitted fabric.
[Explanation of symbols]
    (A) Elastic warp knitted fabric
    (L1) Jacquard 筬
    (L2) (L3) (L4)
    (A1) Fabric part with thin tissue
    (A2) Net-like cloth part by hole structure
    (A3) Fabric part with thick tissue
    (B) Handle
    (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) Each area

Claims (8)

Elastic yarn knitted by a warp knitting machine equipped with a jacquard reed and inserted zigzag into the same wale in a ground knitting structure, and elastic yarn inserted or knitted sideways across several wales Is a stretch warp knitted fabric having a jacquard pattern that is provided with stretch in both directions in the entire knitted fabric,
At least in the distributor stretch power in the inserted or knitted weft direction by stretch yarn knitted in and / or elongation properties change of said elastic yarn in the ground stitch, heavyweight jacquard pattern In combination with changes in the knitting structure due to thin fabrics, hole fabrics, etc., at least one of stretching power and extensibility is appropriately changed to provide a plurality of regions having different stretching power and / or extensibility, and these regions An elastic warp knitted fabric for clothing, characterized in that it is set according to the form when used in clothing and is provided with a predetermined stretch power and extensibility as required in the form of use.   The region having a large expansion / contraction power among the plurality of regions having different expansion / contraction power and / or extensibility is set so as to exhibit a correction function according to a body shape when used in clothing. Elastic warp knitted fabric for clothing described in 1.   The region having high extensibility among the plurality of regions having different stretching power and / or extensibility is set to a portion corresponding to a bulge portion of a body shape when used for clothing. Elastic warp knitted fabric for clothing described in 1.   The stretchable yarn in the ground knitting structure is knitted by changing at least one of the thickness and the number of yarns at a required region in the knitted fabric weft direction, thereby changing the stretchable power and / or stretchability. The stretch warp knitted fabric for clothing according to any one of claims 1 to 3.   The stretchable knitted fabric for clothing according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein at least one of stretch power and stretchability is changed at least in a required region in the warp direction by a change in the knitting structure.   The stretchable warp knitted fabric for clothing according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the stretch power and / or stretchability in at least one direction of the background is changed gradually or stepwise.   Stretching power in at least one direction of the background in a required region in at least one direction of the background by changing the supply amount of the yarn constituting the ground knitting structure including the elastic yarn and / or the yarn constituting the pattern to the knitting portion. The stretch warp knitted fabric for clothing according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the stretch property is changed.   Any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein, on the back side of the knitted fabric, an insertion yarn made of natural fiber or synthetic fiber is arranged for each required course with respect to the chain knitting wale and released to the back side in the meantime. 2. A stretch warp knitted fabric for clothing according to item 1.

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