JP2004218163A - Composite yarn for interlining and cloth for interlining - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a composite yarn for an interlining, capable of improving a bulky feeling easily while exhibiting a good form-maintaining performance, and a cloth for the interlining. <P>SOLUTION: This composite yarn for the interlining is constituted by a multifilament having a sheath core structure consisting of core yarn filaments and sheath yarn filaments. The core yarn filaments are constituted by ≥1 kind thermoplastic synthetic fibers, and the sheath filaments are constituted by 1-3 kinds of thermoplastic synthetic fibers. The sheath core structure is preferably formed by a fluid disturbance treatment method. Further, the sheath core structured yarns obtained by using the filaments consisting of the thermoplastic synthetic fibers having 10-50 decitex single fiber fineness as the core yarn, and the filaments consisting of the thermoplastic synthetic fibers having <10 decitex single fiber fineness so as to become the sheath yarn are preferably bundled and twisted so that its twisting factor becomes 4,500-20,000. The cloth for the padding is constituted by using the composite fiber for the interlining as a warp yarn or weft yarn. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2004,JPO&NCIPI

Description

【００５８】
【発明の効果】
以上詳述したように、この発明によれば、次のような効果を奏する。
請求項１から請求項１０に記載の発明の芯地用複合糸によれば、良好な保型性能を発揮しつつ、ふくらみ感を容易に高めることができる。請求項１１から請求項１４に記載の発明の芯地用布帛によれば、良好な保型性能を発揮しつつ、ふくらみ感を容易に高めることができる。[0001]
TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION
TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to an interlining fabric used to be attached to the inside of clothing to enhance the shape-retaining performance of clothes, and a composite yarn for interlining forming warp or weft of the interlining fabric. More specifically, the present invention relates to an interlining fabric and an interlining composite yarn which are configured to impart a swelling feeling while exhibiting high mold retention performance.
[0002]
[Prior art]
BACKGROUND ART Conventionally, as an interlining fabric such as a front body of heavy clothing, a hair interlining has been used in order to impart moldability and shape retention to clothing. As the material of the warp or weft constituting this hair interlining, moderate rigidity and resilience are required, so that animal hair fibers having a large fineness and tension (goat, camel, karakul, yak, etc.) An animal hair fiber blended spun yarn (having a thickness of 9 to 18 meters) manufactured by blending rayon, wool, or the like is used. Further, these animal hair fiber-spun yarns are subjected to a resin processing step of adhering a feeling adjusting agent (polyvinyl alcohol-based resin, vinyl acetate-based resin, etc.) in a fabric processing step, and their rigidity and resilience are reduced. It is designed to further enhance the moldability and the shape retention properties.
[0003]
On the other hand, as an interlining fabric used as a substitute for the hair interlining, for example, an interlining for clothing disclosed in Patent Document 1 and a base fabric for interlining disclosed in Patent Document 2 are known. I have. In the interlining for clothing, a yarn containing 30 to 100% by weight of a polyester fiber staple having a hollow ratio of 10 to 50% is used for a warp and / or a weft. Further, the base fabric for an interlining is a fabric in which a blended yarn of a core-sheath type composite fiber having a low melting point component disposed in a sheath portion and a polyester hollow fiber is used at least in part. 3 to 40% by weight with respect to the whole yarn, and the hollow ratio of the polyester hollow fiber is 15 to 40%. Each of the interlining for clothing and the base fabric for interlining has excellent shape retention as compared with the above-mentioned hair interlining, and is further reduced in weight.
[0004]
[Patent Document 1]
JP-A-7-216612
[Patent Document 2]
JP-A-9-188938
[0005]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
However, the yarns used in the conventional hair interlining, clothing interlining, and interlining base fabric were both spun yarns having a substantially uniform structure in which constituent fibers were randomly bundled. There was little difference between the structure of the center and the outer periphery of the yarn. For this reason, these yarns have the property that increasing the shape retention performance reduces the swelling feeling, and conversely, increasing the swelling feeling significantly reduces the shape retention performance, making it extremely difficult to balance both properties. It was something.
[0006]
The present invention has been made by paying attention to the problems existing in the prior art as described above. An object of the present invention is to provide a composite yarn for interlining and a cloth for interlining, which are configured so as to easily enhance the swelling feeling while exhibiting good mold-retaining performance.
[0007]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
In order to achieve the above object, the composite yarn for interlining according to the first aspect of the present invention is a composite yarn for interlining constituting a cloth for interlining, and is composed of one or more kinds of thermoplastic synthetic fibers. A core yarn and a sheath filament composed of 1 to 3 kinds of thermoplastic synthetic fibers are composed of a multifilament which is twisted, and the multifilament is covered with a sheath yarn filament around the core yarn filament. It is characterized by having a core-sheath structure.
[0008]
According to a second aspect of the present invention, there is provided a composite yarn for interlining according to the first aspect, wherein the core yarn filament is formed of a colored yarn.
According to a third aspect of the present invention, there is provided a composite yarn for interlining according to the first or second aspect, wherein at least one kind of the sheath yarn filament is constituted by a colored yarn. .
[0009]
According to a fourth aspect of the present invention, there is provided the composite yarn for interlining according to any one of the first to third aspects, wherein the length of the sheath filament contained per unit length is equal to the length of the core filament. The length is set to 1.04 times or more.
[0010]
A composite yarn for interlining according to a fifth aspect of the present invention is characterized in that, in the invention according to any one of the first to fourth aspects, at least one kind of the sheath yarn filament is constituted by a non-bulky processed yarn. It is assumed that.
[0011]
According to a sixth aspect of the present invention, there is provided a composite yarn for interlining according to any one of the first to fifth aspects, wherein the multifilament is subjected to bulky processing.
[0012]
The composite yarn for interlining according to claim 7 is the multifilament according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the multifilament comprises a core yarn and a sheath yarn formed by a fluid disturbance treatment method. It is characterized by being plied.
[0013]
The composite yarn for interlining according to claim 8 is obtained by subjecting the multifilament to a twisting process so that a twisting coefficient is 4500 to 20,000 in the invention according to any one of claims 1 to 7. It is characterized by comprising.
[0014]
The composite yarn for interlining according to the ninth aspect of the present invention is the composite yarn according to any one of the first to eighth aspects, wherein the core yarn filament is made of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber having a single yarn fineness of 10 to 50 dtex. The sheath yarn filament is characterized in that the sheath yarn filament is made of a fiber having a single yarn fineness smaller than that of the core yarn filament.
[0015]
According to a tenth aspect of the present invention, in the composite yarn for interlining according to any one of the first to ninth aspects, the weight mixing ratio of the core yarn filament in the multifilament is 18 to 60% by weight. It is characterized by the following.
[0016]
The interlining fabric of the invention according to claim 11 is an interlining fabric provided with a warp and a weft, and as a yarn constituting the warp or the weft, the yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 10. It is characterized in that a composite yarn for interlining is used.
[0017]
The interlining fabric of the invention according to claim 12 is a woven fabric obtained by weaving the warp and the weft in the invention according to claim 11, wherein the warp and the weft constituting the woven fabric are The sum of the cover factors is 1530 to 5000.
[0018]
The interlining fabric of the invention according to claim 13 is the invention according to claim 11 or claim 12, wherein the JIS. L. It is characterized in that the softness by the cantilever method of 1096 is 4 to 13.
[0019]
An interlining fabric according to a fourteenth aspect of the present invention is obtained by dyeing the fabric according to any one of the eleventh to thirteenth aspects.
[0020]
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, embodiments embodying the present invention will be described in detail.
The composite yarn for interlining according to the embodiment is a multifilament composed of only a filament yarn (thermoplastic synthetic fiber). This interlining composite yarn is composed of a multifilament having a core-sheath structure composed of a core yarn filament, which is the main filament yarn having the largest single-filament fineness, and a sheath yarn filament covering the periphery of the core yarn filament. ing. This composite yarn is used as at least one selected from the warp and the weft of the interlining fabric (woven or knitted fabric) for clothing. In the composite yarn, the core yarn filament located in the core portion contributes to the composite yarn and the fabric for interlining, while the sheath yarn filament located in the sheath portion has the composite yarn and the interlining material. To give a sense of swelling to the fabric.
[0021]
The core-sheath structure is a structure formed by twisting (entanglement) a core yarn filament and a sheath yarn filament, and is a two-layer structure in which the sheath yarn filaments are substantially concentrically laminated around the core yarn filament. Having a structure. In this core-sheath structure, the sheath yarn filament may or may not cover the entire periphery of the core yarn filament, but it is easy to impart a high swelling feeling to the composite yarn for interlining and the fabric for interlining. Therefore, it is preferable that the sheath yarn filament covers the entire periphery of the core yarn filament. Furthermore, as the core-sheath structure of the composite yarn for interlining, the boundary between the entangled portion and the non-entangled portion is clearly distinguished, rather than the one formed by entanglement of both filaments at a constant rhythm. Preferably, a continuous entangled state that cannot be formed is formed.
[0022]
As a material of the filament yarn constituting the composite yarn for interlining, thermoplastic synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon and rayon are used because they are excellent in dimensional stability and physical stability. Further, as the composite yarn for interlining, polyester is most preferably used because the material itself has a swelling feeling, high rigidity (retaining property), resilience, and ease of yarn processing. In addition, this polyester filament yarn is economical because it is easily available and has good coloring properties. On the other hand, the core yarn filament and the sheath yarn filament are composed of different types of filament yarns. Note that the type of filament yarn is different when at least one selected from the material and the fineness of the single yarn is different. When both the material and the fineness of the single yarn are the same, it is considered that the filament yarn is of the same type.
[0023]
The core yarn filament is composed of one or more kinds of thermoplastic synthetic fibers, and is disposed at the core of the composite yarn for interlining and plays a role of imparting high rigidity (flexural rigidity) to the composite yarn. . The thickness of each core filament is preferably 10 to 50 dtex, more preferably 20 to 40 dtex, and still more preferably 20 to 33 dtex in order to impart high rigidity (bending rigidity) to the interlining fabric. And particularly preferably 22 to 30 dtex. When the single yarn fineness of the core yarn filament exceeds 50 dtex, it becomes difficult to combine (composite) the yarn at the time of manufacturing the composite yarn for interlining. Also, at this time, the rigidity of the interlining fabric may become too high, and when wearing the clothing provided with the interlining fabric, the composite yarn protruding from the fabric edge of the fabric may stimulate the skin to cause a tingling sensation. May occur. Conversely, if it is less than 10 dtex, the rigidity required for the interlining fabric cannot be sufficiently imparted.
[0024]
Further, when a filament yarn (preferably made of polyester) having a single yarn fineness of 10 to 25 dtex is used as the core yarn filament, a fabric for an interlining material having a tension suitable for the front body of heavy clothing is manufactured. be able to. In addition, when a filament yarn (preferably made of polyester) having a single yarn fineness of 25 to 50 dtex is used as the core yarn filament, a fabric for an interlining material having a strong tension, which is suitable as a shoulder-increased interlining for heavy clothing, is used. Can be manufactured.
[0025]
Further, it is desirable that this core yarn filament is contained in the composite yarn for interlining, preferably at a weight ratio of 18 to 60% by weight, more preferably 35 to 50% by weight. If the weight mixing ratio is less than 18% by weight, the rigidity and resilience of the interlining composite yarn are remarkably lost. On the other hand, if it exceeds 60% by weight, the weight mixing ratio of the sheath yarn filament is relatively reduced, so that the swelling feeling of the composite yarn for interlining cannot be sufficiently increased.
[0026]
The sheath yarn filament is made of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber having a single yarn fineness smaller than that of the core yarn filament, and is disposed in a sheath portion of the composite yarn for interlining and has a role of giving a swelling feeling to the composite yarn. I am carrying it. This sheath yarn filament is composed of 1 to 3 types, preferably 1 to 2 types of thermoplastic synthetic fibers. When there are four or more types of sheath yarn filaments constituting the interlining composite yarn, it is difficult to combine the yarns in the production process of the interlining composite yarn. The sheath yarn filament may be coated so as to spirally wind the outer periphery of the core yarn filament, or may be arranged in parallel along the length direction of the composite yarn for interlining. However, since it is easy to give a high swelling feeling to the interlining composite yarn, it is preferable that the composite yarn is spirally wound.
[0027]
The sheath yarn filament may be either a non-bulky processed yarn (raw yarn) or a bulky processed yarn. However, since the core yarn filament and the sheath yarn filament are easily entangled, the sheath yarn filament is composed of the non-bulky processed yarn. It is preferred that Further, as the bulky yarn, crimped bulky yarn such as false twisted yarn, indented yarn, shaping yarn, and rubbing yarn, or structural bulky yarn such as looped yarn, feathered yarn, and composite yarn. A textured yarn is exemplified, but a false twist textured yarn is most preferably used because it is easy to give a high swelling feeling to the composite yarn for interlining. The false twisted yarn is a multifilament yarn imparted with a desired swelling feeling by the false twisting process, and a polyester false twisted yarn exhibiting crimp by crimping is most preferably used.
[0028]
As for the thickness of each sheath yarn filament (raw yarn), the single yarn fineness needs to be smaller than that of the core yarn filament, but the single yarn fineness is preferably less than 10 dtex, more preferably 0.5 to 9 dtex, and still more preferably 1 to 9 dtex. 0.0 to 5 dtex. When the single yarn fineness of the sheath yarn filament is 10 dtex or more, it becomes difficult not only to impart a high swelling feeling to the interlining composite yarn, but also to the direction that contributes to the rigidity of the core yarn filament, which is unnecessary. It is not preferable because the rigidity increases. Conversely, filament yarns having a single yarn fineness of less than 0.5 dtex are difficult to obtain. Further, the single yarn fineness of each sheath yarn filament is preferably 1/3 to 1/3 of the single yarn fineness of the core yarn filament in order to make the surface of the interlining fabric easy to feel smooth. More preferably, it is 1/10 to 1/5.
[0029]
The sheath yarn filaments are tied while forming a core-sheath structure by bundling the outer periphery of the core yarn filament. At this time, the length (untwisted length) of each sheath yarn filament contained per unit length of the interlining composite yarn is preferably set so as to give the composite yarn for interlining high swelling. Is preferably longer than the length (untwisting length). Further, the untwisting length of the sheath yarn filament is preferably 1.04 to 1.65 times, more preferably 1.07 to 1.5 times the untwisting length of the core yarn filament. Such a composite yarn for interlining is manufactured by entanglement-aligning the core yarn filament and the sheath yarn filament while feeding them at different feed amounts.
[0030]
When performing the interlacing and aligning (combining) when producing the interlining composite yarn, the Taslan (registered trademark) method or an improved method thereof can be used because it can impart a very high swelling feeling to the interlining composite yarn. Most preferably, it is performed according to such a fluid disturbance treatment method. Further, as the fluid disturbance treatment method, rather than an interlacing method in which a fluid is ejected at a constant rhythm to form a core-sheath structure in which a boundary between an entangled portion and a non-entangled portion can be clearly distinguished, It is preferable that the core-sheath structure is formed so that the boundary between the intertwined portion and the non-entangled portion cannot be distinguished.
[0031]
The composite yarn for interlining may be composed of only a colorless, white, or monochromatic (colored in a single color) filament yarn. However, the color tone of the composite yarn is imparted with a feeling of marbling. In order to enhance the design, it is preferable that at least one of the filament yarns constituting the composite yarn is constituted by a colored yarn. This marbling-like interlining material composite yarn is most simply formed by forming only the core yarn filament by a colored yarn, or by forming at least one kind of filament yarn constituting a sheath yarn filament by a colored yarn. Is done. Further, the composite yarn for interlining may be composed of two or more kinds of colored yarns colored in two or more different colors. As the core-sheath structure of the marbling interlining composite yarn, since the reproducibility in the coloring of the interlining fabric is high, the entangled portion of the core yarn filament and the non-entangled portion of the sheath yarn filament are non-entangled. It is preferable to form a continuous entangled state in which the boundary between the entanglement and the entanglement cannot be clearly distinguished.
[0032]
Further, it is preferable that the composite yarn for interlining is configured to perform bulk processing on the sheath yarn filament before the core yarn and the sheath yarn filament are entangled in order to further enhance the swelling feeling. Examples of the bulking processing include crimping bulking processing such as false twist processing, indentation processing, shaping processing, and rubbing processing, or structural bulking processing such as loop processing, feather processing, and composite processing. False twisting is the most suitable because it is easy to give a high swelling feeling to the surface.
[0033]
The composite yarn for interlining, in particular, when at least one of the sheath yarn filaments is made of a non-bulky yarn, is subjected to bulking after the core yarn and the sheath yarn are entangled. By doing so, it is easy to give a higher swelling feeling.
[0034]
Further, as the composite yarn for interlining, the core yarn is used in order to enhance the shape retention and resilience of the composite yarn and to give the interlining fabric a strong tension (elasticity, resilience and recovery). It is preferable that twisting is performed after the filament and the sheath yarn filament are entangled. In the case where the bulky processing is performed on the interlining composite yarn, a twisting processing is performed after the bulky processing is performed. When this composite yarn for interlining is twisted, it is manufactured by collectively twisting all of the contained filament yarns (multifilaments) with a twisting machine. The twisting direction is not particularly limited, but it is preferable to use S and Z alternately. The twist coefficient at this time is 4500 to 20000, preferably 7000 to 15000, and more preferably 10,000 to 12000. The twist coefficient is determined by the following formula using the number of twists (twice / m) of the composite yarn for interlining and the thickness (dtex) of the yarn.
[0035]
Twist coefficient = (number of twists) x (thickness of yarn)^1/2
When the twist coefficient is less than 4500, there is a possibility that the shape retaining property and resilience of the composite yarn for interlining may not be sufficiently enhanced. Also, at this time, irreversible plastic deformation may occur when the interlining composite yarn is locally bent (in the form of a hairpin), and irreversible during use or storage of the clothing provided with the interlining fabric. There is a possibility that the formation of a serious fold may occur. On the other hand, if it exceeds 20,000, the untwisting torque is too strong, and the composite yarn for interlining becomes unstable. Also, at this time, the surface of the interlining fabric has a textured surface, resulting in a rough and rough texture. On the other hand, when the twist coefficient exceeds 15,000, the swelling feeling of the composite yarn for interlining is easily lost. At this time, snares are likely to occur, and the composite yarn for interlining may easily fall off from the end of the cloth when cutting the interlining fabric after knitting.
[0036]
Further, the thickness of the entire composite yarn for interlining is preferably 300 to 1200 dtex, more preferably 500 to 1000 dtex, in order to exhibit the shape retention performance suitable for the interlining fabric.
[0037]
The interlining fabric of the embodiment is obtained by organizing and processing a woven knitted (woven or knitted) greige fabric using the interlining interwoven yarn as a warp or a weft, preferably a weft. Further, the composite yarn for interlining may be used for warp and weft. When the composite yarn for interlining is used as the weft of the cloth for interlining, it is not necessary that all the wefts constituting the interlining are composed of the composite yarn for interlining, and other yarns (monofilament yarn, Twisted multifilament yarn or spun yarn). The same is true for warps.
[0038]
Furthermore, as the interlining fabric, the interlining composite yarn is used for a part or the whole of the weft, and a part (preferably 3 to 30%, more preferably 5 to 10%) of the yarn constituting the warp is used. It is preferable to use a heat-fused fiber as the base material and to perform a heat treatment for melting the surface of the heat-fused fiber at the time of rearranging. At this time, in the interlining fabric, the heat-fusible fibers are heat-fused with the weft, thereby making it difficult to cause the fraying of the yarn, particularly the drop of the warp or the weft in the cut surface.
[0039]
If the ratio of the heat-fusible fibers in the warp is less than 3%, it is not possible to effectively prevent fraying of the yarn. Conversely, if it exceeds 30%, the texture of the interlining fabric becomes rough because the number of bonding points (fusion points) between the warp and the weft is too large. Further, the melting point of the heat-fused fiber is preferably 100 to 160 ° C. If the melting point is less than 100 ° C., the clothing may be melted by ironing or hot pressing performed in the manufacturing process of the garment. On the other hand, when the temperature exceeds 160 ° C., heat treatment with high heat is required at the time of rearranging, which is uneconomical.
[0040]
In addition, the heat-fused fiber is made of a core-sheath type composite fiber having a core-sheath structure including a core portion and a sheath portion so that the shape of the fiber is not lost at the time of rearranging and processing. Is most preferred. Further, the melting point of the sheath part constituting the core-sheath type conjugate fiber is preferably 100 to 160 ° C, and the melting point of the core part is a temperature exceeding the melting point of the sheath part, preferably a temperature exceeding 160 ° C, more preferably 180 ° C. C. or higher, more preferably 200 ° C. or higher. When the melting point of the sheath portion is less than 100 ° C., the sheath portion may be melted by ironing or hot pressing performed in the manufacturing process of the garment. On the other hand, when the temperature exceeds 160 ° C., heat treatment with high heat is required at the time of rearranging, which is uneconomical.
[0041]
The sum of the cover factors of the warp and the weft of the greige fabric (woven fabric) constituting the interlining fabric is preferably 1530 to 5000. The cover factor is a numerical value obtained by multiplying the positive square root of the yarn fineness (dtex) by the density (number / 2.54 cm). If the sum of the cover factors is less than 1530, the texture of the greige may be too coarse and the rigidity may be too low. On the other hand, when it exceeds 5,000, the weight as the interlining increases, and it may be too heavy.
[0042]
This interlining fabric is manufactured according to JIS. L. It is desirable that the rigidity by the 1096 45 ° cantilever method is preferably 4 to 13, more preferably 6 to 10. When the softness is less than 4, the resilience and tension of the interlining fabric are insufficient, and when it exceeds 13, the interlining fabric tends to have a rough feeling.
[0043]
The method for producing the interlining fabric will be described below.
When manufacturing the interlining fabric, first, after examining the bending rigidity and weight in the warp and weft directions required for the interlining, a composite yarn for interlining suitable for the examination result is obtained. The fabric (raw machine) is woven or knitted using the warp or the weft. In this case, if necessary, it is possible to use it by mixing with other fiber yarns. For example, it has 10 functions for the interlining composite yarn, and has various functions such as heat generation, deodorization, and antistatic properties. It is conceivable to arrange one fiber yarn regularly. Then, an interlining fabric is obtained by rearranging the woven knitted greige.
[0044]
Refining, presetting, dyeing, and heat setting are usually performed as sorting and processing steps, but are not limited to these steps, and other function addition steps (for example, a brushing step and a calendering step) are required. It is performed according to. In the rearranging process, in order to prevent the interlining fabric from having a rough and stiff and paper-like feel, a resin processing step using a feeling adjusting agent (such as a polyvinyl alcohol-based resin or a vinyl acetate-based resin) is performed. Is preferably not performed, but may be performed if necessary. In the refining process, oils, sizing agents, stains, and the like applied in the respective stages of spinning, spinning, and woven fabric are decomposed and removed by a refining agent or a desizing agent.
[0045]
The effects exerted by the above embodiment will be described below.
The composite yarn for interlining according to the embodiment is composed of a multifilament having a core-sheath structure including a core yarn filament and a sheath yarn filament covering the periphery of the core yarn filament. Furthermore, the core yarn filament is constituted by a filament yarn having the largest single yarn fineness constituting the composite yarn for interlining, and the sheath yarn filament is formed by one to three types of filament yarns having a single yarn fineness smaller than the core yarn filament. It is configured. For this reason, the composite yarn for interlining exhibits good rigidity and resilience (type retention performance) due to the thick core yarn filament disposed at the core, and bulges due to the thin sheath yarn filament disposed at the sheath. A feeling of texture can be given. That is, the composite yarn for interlining has a core portion and a sheath portion which are different from those of the conventional wool interlining, clothing interlining and spun yarn having a uniform structure used for interlining base fabric. It has a well-defined structure that is functionally divided, so it is possible to simultaneously exhibit seemingly contradictory performances such as mold retention and swelling. The composite yarn for interlining is used as an alternative to the above-mentioned conventional hair interlining, which is required to have a high shape-retaining performance, mainly used for the front body and shoulders of heavy clothing.
[0046]
The composite yarn for interlining can be provided with a remarkably high swelling feeling by performing a fluid agitation treatment when performing the interlacing and aligning (combining) of the core yarn filament and the sheath yarn filament. Further, as the fluid disturbance treatment, a fluid is jetted at random rhythm to perform a core-sheath structure in which the boundary between the entangled portion and the non-entangled portion of the core yarn filament and the sheath yarn filament cannot be distinguished. It can be easily formed, and a higher swelling feeling can be imparted.
[0047]
-By twisting the composite yarn for interlining, so that the twist coefficient becomes 4500 to 20000, the constituent fibers (particularly, core yarn filaments) act to tighten each other with a strong force, and the bunching effect is obtained. It is remarkably high, and the shape retention performance can be further enhanced. For this reason, even when a force for locally bending the interlining composite yarn acts, the risk of plastic deformation occurring by twisting is significantly reduced, and irreversible fold formation is unlikely to occur. Furthermore, the composite yarn for interlining is not composed of spun yarn made of short fibers such as staples, but is composed of multifilaments, so that the yarn has good bunching properties and has a remarkable twist effect as a means of imparting rigidity. Has been enhanced. In addition, the entire filament yarn constituting the interlining composite yarn is made of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber, and hardly shrinks even when washed with water, and exhibits high dimensional stability at the consumption stage. be able to. Further, the composite yarn for interlining can have a good marbling tone by twisting.
[0048]
-The composite yarn for interlining is composed of only a filament yarn having a single yarn fineness of 50 dtex or less, and easily exhibits extremely high mold retention performance by containing a core yarn filament having a single yarn fineness of 10 to 50 dtex. Can be done. In particular, by using a filament yarn having a single yarn fineness of 10 to 50 dtex as a core yarn filament, it is possible to easily impart a tension suitable for an interlining fabric used for heavy clothing. This effect is remarkably remarkable in the twisted interlining composite yarn.
[0049]
Furthermore, by adding a sheath yarn filament having a single yarn fineness of less than 10 dtex to the composite yarn for interlining, the sheath yarn filament fills the unevenness of the surface formed by twisting a plurality of core yarn filaments. Due to the arrangement, unevenness on the surface is reduced. At this time, when an interlining fabric is manufactured using the interlining composite yarn, a high swelling feeling can be imparted to the surface of the interlining fabric, and the surface can be extremely easily smoothed. Comfort can be improved.
[0050]
The composite yarn for interlining is composed of thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilaments, there is almost no change in dimensional stability and deterioration in shape retention performance due to washing with water, and the surface is similar to the conventional hair interlining. Since there is no coarse animal hair fiber protruding from the surface, there is almost no possibility that the fastener phenomenon occurs. Note that the fastener phenomenon is a phenomenon in which coarse animal hair fibers slightly protruding from the surface of the hair interlining are caught and entangled with the surface of the adhesive interlining used in the front body, for example.
[0051]
【Example】
Hereinafter, examples and comparative examples that embody the above embodiment will be described.
(Example 1)
The untwisted polyester multifilament 330 dtex / 10f white yarn was used as a core yarn filament, and the untwisted polyester multifilament 166 dtex / 30f white yarn and the same 166 dtex / 48f colored yarn were used as sheath yarn filaments. Using these core yarn filaments and sheath yarn filaments, the yarn is combined while performing fluid disturbance treatment (fluid is randomly jetted), and then twisted so that the twist coefficient becomes 10280. Manufactured. The yarn length ratio after the fluid agitation treatment was such that the sheath yarn / core yarn was 1.075 / 1. The weight ratio of the core yarn filament in this composite yarn was 49.8% by weight.
[0052]
Next, this composite yarn for interlining is used as a weft yarn, and a polyester spun yarn 40/1 is used as a warp yarn. The length is 43 yarns / 2.54 cm (described as book / in in Table 1) and the weft 41 yarns / 2.54 cm. A weaving machine was obtained by weaving so that The sum of the cover factors of the warp and weft of this greige machine is 1588, and the weight is 145 g / m.²Met. The green fabric was heat set to produce an interlining fabric. This interlining fabric is described in JIS. L. The bending resistance in the weft direction was measured in accordance with the 1096 cantilever method, and various evaluations as a fabric for interlining were performed.
[0053]
(Comparative Example 1)
As Comparative Example 1, a general hair interlining was used. That is, a mixed spun yarn 1/15 of 100% cotton spun yarn 40/1 as a warp yarn, animal hair fiber (goat) 15%, wool 35% and rayon 50% as a weft yarn was used. A green fabric was produced by plain weaving with a rapier weaving machine set so that the density was 40 warps / 2.54 cm and the weft 40 wires / 2.54 cm. The greige fabric was processed in the order of hair filing, boiling, and resin processing, which are general processing steps of a hair interlining. The baking is a process of baking and removing mainly animal hair fibers protruding from the surface of the fabric, a boiler is a process of setting and stabilizing animal hair and wool fibers, and a resin processing is a process of stabilizing the warp cotton material and the whole. This is the step of adjusting the hand.
[0054]
<Comparison test>
For each interlining fabric obtained in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1, the specifications, swelling feeling, degree of marbling, softness in the weft direction, workability of weft production, and shrinkage in the weft direction by a water washing test (Weft shrinkage) was evaluated. Further, a semi-finished product of each of the interlining fabrics was trial-produced to evaluate (visually) a fastener phenomenon. The outline of the test method is shown below, and the test results are shown in Table 1.
[0055]
Swelling feeling;
Marbling appearance; visual.
Softness; JIS. L. 1096 45 ° cantilever method.
[0056]
Manufacture workability of weft; based on sensory evaluation.
Washing test; JIS. L. 0213.103 method repeated 5 times.
Table 1 summarizes the above results.
[0057]
[Table 1]

[0058]
【The invention's effect】
As described above, according to the present invention, the following effects can be obtained.
According to the composite yarn for an interlining material of the invention described in any one of the first to tenth aspects, it is possible to easily enhance the swelling feeling while exhibiting good shape retention performance. According to the interlining fabric of the invention as set forth in claims 11 to 14, it is possible to easily enhance the swelling feeling while exhibiting good mold retention performance.

Claims (14)

An interlining composite yarn constituting an interlining fabric,
A core filament composed of one or more types of thermoplastic synthetic fibers and a sheath filament composed of 1 to 3 types of thermoplastic synthetic fibers, and a multifilament that is plied,
The multi-filament is a composite yarn for interlining, wherein the multi-filament has a core-sheath structure in which a sheath yarn filament is covered around a core yarn filament. The composite yarn for interlining according to claim 1, wherein the core filament is constituted by a colored yarn. The composite yarn for interlining according to claim 1 or 2, wherein at least one of the sheath yarn filaments is constituted by a colored yarn. The interlining material according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the length of the sheath yarn filament contained per unit length is 1.04 times or more the length of the core yarn filament. Composite yarn. The composite yarn for interlining according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein at least one type of the sheath yarn filament is constituted by a non-bulky textured yarn. The composite yarn for interlining according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the multifilament is processed to be bulky. The composite yarn for interlining according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the multifilament is obtained by combining a core yarn filament and a sheath yarn filament by a fluid disturbance treatment method. The composite yarn for interlining according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the multifilament is formed by twisting so that a twist coefficient becomes 4500 to 20000. 2. The core yarn filament is made of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber having a single yarn fineness of 10 to 50 dtex, and the sheath yarn filament is made of a fiber having a single yarn fineness smaller than that of the core yarn filament. The composite yarn for interlining according to any one of claims 1 to 8. The composite yarn for interlining according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein a weight mixing ratio of the core yarn filament in the multifilament is 18 to 60% by weight. An interlining fabric provided with a warp and a weft,
An interlining fabric, wherein the interlining composite yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 10 is used as a yarn constituting the warp or weft. A woven fabric obtained by weaving the warp and the weft,
The interlining fabric according to claim 11, wherein the sum of the cover factors of the warp and the weft constituting the woven fabric is 1530 to 5000. JIS. L. 13. The interlining fabric according to claim 11, wherein the stiffness by a cantilever method of 1096 is 4 to 13. 14. The interlining fabric according to any one of claims 11 to 13, which is dyed.