JP3465640B2 - Long and short composite spun yarn and woven fabric - Google Patents

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a long-short composite spun yarn containing a polyester multi-filament yarn composed of at least two components having different heat-shrinking properties and a polyester short fiber, and further to the warp yarn and / or the weft yarn as described above. Stretching and lightweight using a crimped conjugate multifilament yarn in which a composite spun yarn is used and at least two polyester polymers with different heat shrinkage are joined in parallel or core-sheath to a weft yarn or a warp yarn. Excellent feeling
Further, the present invention relates to a woven fabric having a soft bulge, high resilience, and high color development and an elegant surface feeling. For more details,
Superior swelling, high resilience, and stretchability that cannot be obtained with conventional short fiber spun yarn alone, and a natural surface texture with unevenness of yarn that cannot be obtained with woven fabrics that use polyester multifilaments alone The present invention relates to a woven fabric which is excellent in stretchability and lightweight feeling, using a long and short composite spun yarn that is effective, is comfortable to wear, and is excellent in tailoring in sewing.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Synthetic fiber fabrics have hitherto been used as natural fibers,
Although the appearance and touch of chemical fibers have all been imitated, in recent years, there has been a movement to develop something that is unique to synthetic fibers, in terms of the texture and appearance typified by the feel, which is completely different from natural fibers. It is in.

As an approach method, in polyester fibers, new elemental technology was developed in the conventional polymer, multifilament yarn manufacturing processes such as spinning and drawing, and in the staple manufacturing process, and as a new polymer, for different shrinkage mixed fibers. The high shrinkage polymer of the above, a ceramics mixed polymer for a new dry touch, or a highly irregular cross section in the spinning process, a technique for producing ultrafine fibers, and the sophistication of the thick and thin technique in the drawing process. However, with these raw yarns alone, it is not possible to obtain textures that are significantly different from conventional ones, and new high-order processing technology has been developed, and in particular, development of composite yarn processing technology has made a great contribution.

Structured yarns having different yarn lengths due to composite false twisting of raw yarns having different breaking elongations, low shrinkage yarns and high shrinkage yarns are compounded and interlaced to give a loop dyeing process to the surface of the woven fabric. In the development of what is expressed in the process and the special processing technology of the dyeing process, the combination of the new yarns produces fabrics of various textures,
As a so-called new synthetic fiber, it has greatly contributed to the demands of the times. A new synthetic fiber consisting of short fibers was developed in a direction to further develop the flow of this new synthetic fiber. The new synthetic fibers based on these polyester filament yarns have been evaluated in the market for their new texture, which is different from conventional natural fiber materials.
There is a strong demand for improvement because the facial expression is so-called surface feeling and is too expressionless.

On the other hand, the short-fiber new synthetic fiber is a spun yarn, and therefore, unlike filament yarn, since the number of constituents in the cross-section varies, a natural surface due to unevenness of the yarn can be obtained, but it has a soft touch. When ultrafine fibers are used, there is a problem that the fabric is not elastic and tailored as a sewn product. In addition, in order to make the fabric with bulge, development was made by mixing high-shrink raw cotton into a different-shrink mixed yarn, but short fibers have a lot of fluff, so high temperature heat is applied by sizing in the weaving process. Therefore, there are many problems that cannot be solved such that sufficient bulges cannot be expressed in the dyeing process. Further, it is difficult to impart stretchability to the above-mentioned new synthetic fiber and short fiber new synthetic fiber, and there has been a strong demand for improvement in sewability and tailoring.

[0006] As a more recent demand, not only the feeling of the fabric is of high quality but also the comfort of wearing it as clothes has been strongly demanded. From this point of view, one concept of the functionality is an approach based on a specialty of synthetic fibers, that is, an approach based on properties that natural fibers are not good at, for example, stretchability. Regarding the stretchability, the mainstream is conventionally the use of polyurethane elastic fibers, that is, spandex covering yarns, but the woven fabrics have problems in terms of raw yarn and higher processing cost, and in spandex, stretchability It had strong sexual power and was not applicable to all purposes.

[0007] In particular, as a social demand in the aging that is progressing in recent years, there is product development corresponding to healthcare. Products that are friendly to the elderly are being demanded in every aspect of life. From this point of view, what is strongly demanded to be improved in the use of clothing is comfort when worn as clothing. The strongest needs for that factor are clothes that are elegant and wearable. That is, functionality such as soft stretch and light weight is required.

[0008]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention provides a long-short composite spun yarn and a woven fabric having stretchability and lightness, and having a soft bulge, high repulsion property, and high color development and an elegant surface feeling. More specifically, it has a bulge, a high resilience, and a stretch property which cannot be obtained by the conventional short fiber spun yarn alone, and has a natural feeling of yarn unevenness which cannot be obtained by the polyester multifilament fabric. An object of the present invention is to provide a long-short composite spun yarn and a woven fabric which have a superior binding effect of the surface feeling of facial expressions, have a comfortable soft stretch and lightweight feeling when worn, and are excellent in tailoring appearance in sewing.

[0009]

The present invention has the following constitution in order to solve the above problems. That is, (1) a crimped conjugate multifilament aggregate in which at least two polyester polymers having different heat shrinkages are joined in parallel or in a core-sheath, and at least two components having different heat shrinkages A long-short composite spun yarn comprising a composite of a short crimping conjugate short fiber.

(2) The long-short composite spun yarn according to (1) above, wherein the long-short composite spun yarn has a real twist with a twist coefficient α represented by the following formula in the range of 3,000 to 20,000. .

T = α · D ^−1/2 where T: actual twist number (T / M) α: twist coefficient D: fineness (dtex) of long-short composite spun yarn (3) the crimped conjugate short fiber But 2, 2
[4- (2-Hydroxyethoxyl] phenyl] probane 2 to 7 mol% and isophthalic acid 5 to 13 mol% Copolymerized polyester (A) and a polyester fiber (B) consisting essentially of ethylene terephthalate units The long-short composite spun yarn according to (1) or (2) above.

(4) The long-short composite spun yarn contains natural fibers and cellulosic short fibers in addition to the crimped conjugate short fibers.
The long-short composite spun yarn according to any one of 1.

(5) At least two components differing in heat shrinkage
Polyester polymer of the
Crimping Conjugate MultifilamentAggregation
And a component consisting of at least two components having different heat shrinkability.
Long and short composite spun yarns that are composites of short fibers
Use spun yarn for warp and weft, or
If you use the long-short composite spun yarn as warp yarn (or weft yarn)
Mostly, at least two-component polyester with different heat shrinkage
A crimpable copolymer in which a polymer is joined in parallel or in a sheath-core fashion.
Conjugate multifilamentAggregationThe weft (also
Is used for the warp thread), and the warp and / or the weft
Woven fabric having 5 to 25% elasticity in the direction
object.

(6) The long-short composite spun yarn and the crimpable conjugate multifilament aggregate have a real twist having a twist coefficient α of 3,000 to 20,000 represented by the following formula: The woven fabric according to 5).

T = α · D ^−1/2 where T: actual twist number (T / M) α: twist coefficient D: crimping conjugate multifilament assembly
Fineness (dtex) of body or long / short composite spun yarn

(8) The long-short composite spun yarn contains natural fibers and cellulosic short fibers in addition to the crimpable conjugate short fibers.
The woven fabric according to any one of 1.

(9) The woven fabric according to any one of (5) to (8) above, wherein the crimped conjugate multifilament assembly satisfies the following characteristics before crimping is exhibited. (10) The woven fabric according to any one of (5) to (9), wherein the crimped conjugate multifilament aggregate is crimped by relaxation heat treatment.

(11) The woven fabric according to any one of (5) to (10) above, wherein the crimpable conjugate multifilament aggregate has a tubular hollow structure in the central part in the yarn axis direction.

[0019]

[0020] Cutting elongation (TE): 30% or less Shrinkage stress (TS): 0.265 cN / dtex or more

[0021]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The fabric of the present invention comprises warp yarns and / or
Or weft, heat shrinkable tendon least 2 component polyester polymer are joined in parallel or core-sheath manner having different shrinkage conjugate multifilament aggregate
(Hereinafter, simply referred to as “crimpable conjugate multifilament
And may be referred to cement yarn "), a spun yarn obtained by combining the conjugate short fiber comprising at least two components having different said crimped conjugate multifilament yarn as well as heat shrinkable, the weft yarn Or a crimped conjugate multifilament yarn in which the above-mentioned conjugated multifilament yarn is used as a warp yarn and at least two component polyester polymers having different heat shrinkability are joined in parallel or in a core-sheath; By making the short fibers express three-dimensional crimp, the yarns constituting the woven fabric have inter-fiber voids and stretchability, so that the woven fabric can realize a lightweight feeling and stretchability.

The present invention will be described in more detail below.

The raw yarns constituting the warp and the weft of the woven fabric used in the present invention will be described.

One of the raw yarns constituting the warp yarns and / or the weft yarns is a composite spun yarn of a polyester conjugate multifilament yarn and a polyester short fiber, which is composed of at least two components having different heat shrinkage characteristics. The constitution is a crimpable conjugate multifilament yarn in which at least two or more kinds of polyester polymers are joined in parallel or in a core-sheath and a crimpable conjugate short fiber similar to the above. The other is a polyester conjugate multifilament yarn alone which is composed of at least two components having different heat-shrinking properties and which does not contain crimping conjugate short fibers. It is a crimped conjugate multifilament yarn that is sheathed.

When the composite spun yarn is used as the warp yarn of the fabric, the crimpable conjugate multifilament yarn is used as the weft yarn of the fabric, and when the composite spun yarn is used as the weft yarn of the fabric, The crimpable conjugate multifilament yarn can be used as a warp yarn of a woven fabric. When the composite spun yarn is used as the warp and weft of the woven fabric, the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn can be used as the warp or weft of the woven fabric.

It is important that the conjugate multifilament yarn of the present invention has the property of exhibiting helical crimping upon relaxation heat treatment. Then, in order to obtain a conjugated multifilament yarn having such characteristics, the characteristics of the polyester polymer, spinning and drawing conditions, etc. are important.

As the two-component polyester polymer having different heat shrinkability, one having a low-viscosity polyester component as one and a high-viscosity polyester component as the other is preferably used. In the case of polyethylene terephthalate, the intrinsic viscosity of the low viscosity polyester component is in the range of 0.35 to 0.55, and the intrinsic viscosity of the high viscosity polyester component is 0.65.
It is preferably in the range of 0.85. If the intrinsic viscosity of the low-viscosity polyester component is less than 0.35, the melt viscosity will be low, making it difficult to produce yarn. When the intrinsic viscosity of the low-viscosity polyester component exceeds 0.55, the crimping power of the conjugate multifilament becomes poor, and the spiral crimping power is deteriorated. Further, if the intrinsic viscosity of the high-viscosity polyester component exceeds 0.85, the melt viscosity becomes high and spinning / drawing becomes difficult. If the intrinsic viscosity of the high-viscosity polyester component is less than 0.65, the crimping power tends to be poor. As the polyester used here, polypropylene terephthalate or polybutylene terephthalate may be used in addition to polyethylene terephthalate.

The intrinsic viscosity component difference between the low viscosity polyester component and the high viscosity polyester is preferably in the range of 0.20 to 0.40. However, when a copolyester component is used for one side, the difference in intrinsic viscosity between the two components can be made closer.

The intrinsic viscosity [η] is obtained as an orthochlorophenol solution at a temperature of 25 ° C.

Regarding the conjugated multifilament yarn used here, there is a suitable composite ratio for the low-viscosity polyester component and the high-viscosity polyester component when spinning two types of polyester polymers. That is, the composite ratio of the low-viscosity polyester component and the high-viscosity polyester component is preferably 35 to 65:65 to 35 by weight, and more preferably 40 to 60:60 to 40.

The composite form of the conjugate multifilament yarn may be either of two forms arranged in parallel or in a core-sheath arrangement, but the parallel form is more effective in developing latent crimp (coil diameter). Is large and the number of expressed crimps is large), which is preferable. This composite ratio and the arrangement form of the two components are related to the size of the diameter of the helical coil of the crimp which is expressed in the relaxation heat treatment of the conjugate fiber, and the larger the coil diameter, the greater the stretching effect.

The spinning speed for obtaining such crimped conjugate multifilament yarn is usually 1000.
It may be any of a low speed region of m / min or more and a high speed region of 2500 m / min or more.

The drawing of the undrawn yarn and the semi-drawn yarn which are spun is
It is possible to draw with a known drawing device, the strength / elongation level of the drawn thread obtained with respect to the strength / elongation characteristics of the unstretched thread and the semi-stretched thread, and the stretched yarn as much as possible under the condition that no fluff occurs. It is desirable to set the conditions under which a large shrinkage stress can be obtained by the relaxation heat treatment. The higher the contraction stress, the higher the crimping-developing ability of the conjugate multifilament yarn can be, whereby the relaxation coil heat treatment of the woven fabric in the subsequent step provides a hollow structure of the helical coil due to crimping. The cutting elongation of the conjugate multifilament yarn is preferably 30% or less because high shrinkage stress characteristics can be obtained.

As the drawn yarn, the single fiber fineness of the conjugated multifilament yarn is 1.1 to 15 dt.
ex is preferable, and more preferably 2 to 10 dtex. In the area narrower than 1.1 dtex, there is a point that it is difficult to form a yarn in the current technical level, but there is a limit in forming a spiral coil, and when it is larger than 15 dtex, it is softer than a straight structure for clothing use because of a spiral structure, The texture tends to become hard.

Further, the higher the shrinkage stress of the conjugate multifilament yarn, the better the expression of latent crimping, which is preferable. Therefore, in the present invention, the contraction stress is 0.26.
It is preferably cN / dtex or more.

This shrinkage stress is measured from room temperature to 250
The change in shrinkage stress when heated to around ℃ is detected with a U gauge (strain gauge) and recorded in an X, Y recorder. Trial:
100 mm, sound speed: 2.5 ° C / sec, initial load:
The temperature is raised at (0.0882 cN / dtex × 2). Read the maximum stress from the chart (cN is centinewton).

The elongation property of the conjugate multifilament yarn of the present invention is preferably as small as possible, preferably 35% or less, more preferably 30% or less, further preferably 27% or less. There is a correlation between the elongation and the shrinkage stress. To increase the shrinkage stress, the temperature at the time of stretching is lowered and the stretching ratio is increased to increase the shrinkage stress and reduce the elongation.

Further, as the conjugate multifilament yarn, by using the multifilament yarn in which the monofilament itself has a spirally wound crimped structure, it is possible to further enhance the effects of stretchability and high resilience on the woven fabric. it can. This conjugate multifilament yarn may be used in combination with another multifilament yarn. In particular, fine yarns and those exhibiting spontaneous elongation in the dyeing process and having different dyeability are preferable.

Next, the crimpable polyester conjugate short fibers to be composited with the crimpable conjugate multifilament yarn will be described. As in the case of the multifilament yarn described above, it is particularly limited as long as it is a combination of polymers in which at least two polyester components are joined in parallel or in a core-sheath and a spiral three-dimensional crimp is expressed by heat shrinkage. It is not something that will be done. It will be described here as a recommended example. The first polyester component is isophthalic acid, 2,2-bis [4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl] proban (hereinafter, BHPP
Is a composite fiber comprising a polyester (A) as a third component and a polyester (B) whose second component is substantially ethylene terephthalate as a main repeating unit. It is a latent crimpable polyester fiber that exhibits a helical crimp of 50 cores / 25 mm or more when heat-treated at. The copolyester (A) is preferably a polyethylene terephthalate copolyester modified with BHPP or its ester-forming derivative and isophthalic acid.

The polyester (A) of the crimpable conjugate short fiber in the present invention has a BHHP copolymerization ratio of 2;
Those having a copolymerization of ˜7 mol% and isophthalic acid of 5˜13 mol% are recommended in terms of physical properties such as crimpability and strength properties. Further, the intrinsic viscosity [η] of the polyester components (A) and (B) is in the range of 0.45 to 0.60 and 0.55 to 0.75, and the difference in the intrinsic viscosity between the two polymers is 0.25 or less. This is an important condition for satisfying the passing property of spinning and drawing and the development of crimp.

The crimpable conjugate multifilament yarns and short fibers shown above are not limited to round cross sections, and may have triangular to octagonal multileaf cross sections or hollow cross sections. In addition to the polyethylene terephthalate-based polyester copolymer obtained by copolymerizing polyester mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate, isophthalic acid, etc., as a component constituting the short fiber, a third component such as 5- It may be composed of polyethylene-based polyester copolymerized with sodium sulfoisophthalic acid. Further, each polymer may be mixed with ceramics, a matting agent, a pigment or the like.

Next, the composite spun yarn of the crimpable polyester conjugate multifilament yarn and the polyester conjugate short fiber in the present invention will be explained. Conventionally, a short fiber cloth made of a conjugate fiber obtained by combining polymers having different shrinkage differences has been developed aiming at the effect of stretchability, and as shown in the example of JP-A-3-161519, developed for stretchable nonwoven fabric. However, even if it is used as a short fiber spun yarn, sufficient elasticity cannot be obtained. In addition, various improvements have been proposed in order to obtain a stretchable woven fabric made of spun yarn. As an example, the stretchable spun yarn and the woven fabric disclosed in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 7-150429 have a stretch effect which is not obtained by a conventional short fiber spun yarn, but a spandex composite yarn is used. In addition, the level was lower than that using the conjugate multifilament yarn, and there was a limit to the expansion of applications due to the performance of stretch level and recovery. Further, both ends of the conjugated short fiber are cut, and in the structure as a spun yarn, they exist as fluff and both ends are free, so that the relaxation heat treatment causes a coil-like shape due to the occurrence of crimping at both ends where the fiber bundle is not constrained (curling). Curled), which was a serious problem as an uneven defect on the surface of the fabric. As a result of various studies on these problems, in order to increase elasticity and recoverability, reduce the number of fluffs, and improve the quality, it is necessary to combine a conjugate multifilament yarn with a spun yarn of conjugated short fibers. Has been found to be the most effective and has reached the present invention.

The composite spun yarn in the present invention is in the form in which the crimpable polyester conjugate short fibers and the crimpable polyester multifilament yarn are compounded with a real twist, and the number of twists is different between them. Includes composites in different states.

As a form of the composite form, a roving of crimped conjugate short fibers is drafted by a spinning machine in a spinning process and sent out from a front roller, and at the same time, twist is inserted by rotation of a spindle and a ring-shaped traveler. However, short fibers and filament yarns are the same as in the composite twisted yarn form obtained by simultaneously spinning the crimpable polyester multifilament yarns from the front roller of this spinning machine according to the roving yarns of the conjugate short fibers. The most typical example is a configuration in which the number of twists is almost the same as the twisting direction of. In this case, depending on the tension level of the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn, when the conjugate staple fiber is located relatively on the outer periphery and the conjugate filament yarn is located on the inner side, the staple fiber is opposite to this. On the inside, there is a mode in which the multifilament yarn is located on the outer periphery.

In these two modes, a tubular hollow structure is easily formed in the central portion in the longitudinal direction of the yarn axis by the relaxation heat treatment in the above case, but there is a phenomenon in which short fiber fluff is likely to occur. In the latter case, Contrary to the former, there are few short fiber fluffs,
It tends to have a hollow structure. In terms of the effect of the woven fabric, the former is lightweight and highly stretchable, and a natural surface feeling due to the yarn unevenness that is a characteristic of the short fiber spun yarn on the surface can be obtained. Pill defects tend to appear on both ends of the fluff. Compared with the former, the latter is slightly lighter, stretchable, and has a natural surface feel, but the respective effects are extremely superior to the short fiber woven fabric.

Another embodiment of the composite form is the spinning of the conjugate short fibers obtained by spinning, as in the case where the spun yarn of crimped conjugate short fibers is twisted with the plied yarn or other yarn. It is a form obtained by combining a yarn and a crimped conjugate multifilament yarn and making a composite twisted yarn. In this case, the characteristics that differ from the origin of the short fiber spun yarn, the twist direction and the number of twists to be inserted at the time of the composite twist yarn are different in a morphological manner. As a requirement for this composite spun yarn, the actual twist number of the composite yarn is important, and the long-short composite spun yarn has a real twist with a twist coefficient α of 3,000 to 20,000, which is represented by the following formula.

T = α · D ^−1/2 where T: actual twist number (T / M) α: twisting factor D: fineness of long-short composite spun yarn (dtex) where twisting factor α is from 3,000 If it is too small, a sufficient crimping effect of the conjugated multifilament yarn cannot be obtained. On the other hand, if it exceeds 20,000, the sufficient crimping effect of the crimpable multifilament yarn and the crimpable conjugate short fiber cannot be obtained. Twisting factor α
The most effective area is 8,000 to 15,000, due to the crimping due to the relaxation heat treatment of the composite spun yarn, the gap between the short fibers and the multifilament is large, and the weight is light.
It becomes a form in which a stretch effect can be obtained. In addition, since twisting is likely to occur in a region where the number of twists is high, a twisting stop set is required, but the set temperature should be set as low as possible. Check the twisting torque state and determine the setting conditions.
It is better to avoid high temperature due to wet heat as much as possible, and it is preferable to take a longer time by a method using dry heat as a heat medium such as a commonly used Rydon box.

Here, the type of short fibers constituting the composite spun yarn does not have to be 100% of polyester conjugate short fibers having crimp expression, and may be 40% by weight or more. When it is 40% by weight or more, it has the effect of imparting stretchability and lightness due to the appearance of coil-shaped crimp. Raw cotton mixed with this polyester conjugate short fiber is synthetic fiber such as polyester, nylon, acrylic,
Regenerated fibers such as rayon and polynosic, and even cotton,
Natural fibers such as wool may also be used, and further recommended varieties are those that shrink and develop three-dimensional crimps, like the polyester conjugate short fibers that are the basis of the present invention, such as wool and acrylic conjugate fibers. , Water-swellable fibers such as rayon are very preferable because they have a good effect on the expression of three-dimensional crimp in the dyeing process. In addition, it is preferable to mix the raw cotton having the characteristic of being eluted in the dyeing processing step, because the effect of the conjugate crimping is further exerted. As the elution-type fiber, generally known water-soluble vinylon is more preferable because it does not cause a chemical reaction in the dyeing process.

Further, it is preferable that the crimping conjugate multifilament yarn used for the weft yarn or the warp yarn has a real twist having a twist coefficient α of 3,000 to 20,000 as shown by the following formula.

T = α · D ^−1/2 where T: actual twist number (T / M) α: twist coefficient D: fineness of conjugate multifilament yarn (dt
ex) Here, if the twist coefficient α is less than 3,000, a sufficient crimping effect of the conjugate multifilament yarn cannot be obtained. On the other hand, when it exceeds 20,000, sufficient crimp expression cannot be obtained due to the converging property of the crimpable multifilament yarn, and the elasticity due to the expression of the three-dimensional helical structure and the weight effect due to the void structure cannot be obtained. The most effective region of α is 8,000 to 15,000, due to the crimping due to the relaxation heat treatment, the multifilament has a large void due to the expression of the three-dimensional helical structure, and becomes a form in which a lightweight and stretchable effect can be obtained. .

Next, the requirements for the weaving process will be described in order to facilitate the crimp expression of the polyester conjugate multifilament yarn and the polyester conjugate short fiber.

When a composite spun yarn of a polyester conjugate multifilament yarn and a conjugate short fiber is used as a warp yarn, sizing is required in order to improve the passability in the weaving process, but under sizing and drying conditions,
The temperature is as low as possible for the purpose of fluffing. In particular, it is important for a composite yarn in which staple fibers are wound around the yarn surface.

Although the weave design is required for a flat design for the purpose of light weight effect, stretchability cannot be obtained when the density is high, so the cover factors of the warp and weft of the fabric are sufficiently calculated and designed. A satin design having a small number of design points, such as satin, is preferable for obtaining stretchability, but a weight is easily attached, so the density is adjusted.

In the present invention, the long-short composite spun yarn is used for the warp yarn and / or the weft yarn, and the conjugate multifilament yarn is used for the weft yarn or the warp yarn. That is, when the long / short composite spun yarn is used as the warp yarn, the conjugate multifilament yarn is used as the weft yarn, and when the long / short composite spun yarn is used as the weft yarn,
The conjugate multifilament yarn is used as the warp yarn. Further, when the long-short composite spun yarn is used for the warp yarn and the weft yarn, it means that 100% of the long-short composite spun yarn is used.

Further, in the present invention, it has elasticity of 5 to 25% in the vertical and horizontal directions. The method of measuring elasticity will be described later. A 100% vertical / horizontal long / short composite spun yarn or a conjugate multifilament yarn for both vertical and horizontal is a 2-way stretch woven fabric having stretchability in the vertical / horizontal direction.

In the present invention, stretchability is preferably provided in the vertical and horizontal directions, but either the vertical or horizontal direction may have stretchability.

Next, the dyeing process is a general relaxation,
It can be carried out under normal conditions with an intermediate set, alkali reduction, dyeing, and finishing set. In the processing process, the pre-process of the dyeing process is extremely important because it imparts stretchability to the woven fabric and contributes to light weight and tailoring effect such as swelling and resilience. That is, the relaxation process condition is the decisive factor. Further, since the quality of the woven fabric is greatly affected, it is preferable to perform refining and relaxing in the spread state and then to relax crimping to sufficiently develop crimping so that wrinkles are not formed.
Wool blending is preferred for wool blends, and alkali is not preferred for rayon and natural fibers, and attention must be paid to the dyeing temperature. The combination of fabrics that can be alkali-reduced can be processed by strengthening the kneading effect after alkali-reduction to improve the crimping effect. A process may be added to increase the degree of crimping. Here, in the twist structure of the conjugate multifilament yarn and the multifilament yarn and the conjugate short fiber composite spun yarn in the present invention, the morphology concept of the woven fabric consisting of the spiral spiral crimp having the spiral multifilament aggregate is experimentally produced. It is possible by enlarging the cross section of the woven fabric after dyeing and finishing, the side surface of the yarn (multifilament aggregate) unwound from the woven fabric with a scanning electron microscope manufactured by Hitachi, Ltd., and photographing the sample.

Even if the binding force of the warp yarn and the weft yarn is applied, in order to develop the spiral spiral crimp by relaxing the finishing process, the higher the shrinkage stress of the conjugate multifilament yarn, the more the latent crimp is expressed. This is a preferable property for increasing the temperature. The contraction stress is 0.265 cN / dt as described above.
It is preferably ex or more.

<Stretchability measurement is based on the method A (constant speed elongation method), which is an evaluation method of “stretchability of stretchable woven fabric” in JIS L1096 (general woven fabric test method), and shows a value measured at a load of 1.8 kg. . > In the present invention, the elongation ratio is measured by measuring the elongation ratio in the vertical direction in the width direction of the woven fabric of 5.5 cm in width × 30 in the length direction.
3 cm samples were taken and the same number of weft threads were removed from both sides of the width to 5 cm. After that, using a constant speed extension type tensile tester with a self-recording device, the grip interval was 20 cmL, and 5
An initial overload equivalent to the weight of a sample with a size of cm × 1 m is applied and fixed to the grip. Next, it is stretched to 1.8 kg at a pulling speed of 20 cm / min, the gripping interval L1 at that time is measured, and the elongation rate (%) is determined by the following formula, and is represented by the average value of three sheets. The elongation rate in the vertical direction of the fabric is cut as a sample into a width of 5.5 cm in the length direction and a width of 30 cm in the width direction.

Elongation ratio (%) = {(L1−L) / L} × 100 Even if the width and length of the sample are not within the specified length, the stretchability can be evaluated although accuracy is lacking.

[0061]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described below based on examples. (Examples and Comparative Examples) Heat-shrinkable crimped conjugate short fibers containing ethylene terephthalate as a polyester component (A) as a main component, IPA of 7.1 mol% and 2,2-
Using a polyester copolymerized with 4.4 mol% of bis [4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl] proban (hereinafter referred to as BHPP) and polyethylene terephthalate (B) as the second component, a ratio of 50/50 was obtained. It was melt-spun at a ratio, stretched and cut to obtain a side-by-side type conjugate staple having 2.2 dtex × 51 mm and a mechanical crimp number of 14 co / 25 mm. The number of crimps developed during heat treatment under no load at 180 ° C. was 58 cores / 25 mm. This short fiber was made into a roving yarn under a normal spinning condition and was subjected to a spinning machine.

A low viscosity component consisting of 100% polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.47 and a polyethylene having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.75 were combined as a conjugated multifilament yarn by joining the drawn short fiber fleece from the front roller. After spinning a conjugate multifilament unstretched yarn in which a high-viscosity component composed of terephthalate is laminated in a parallel type at a weight composite ratio of 50:50, the unstretched conjugate multifilament yarn is stretched, and the shrinkage stress is 0.
The raw yarn produced from 55 dtex-12 filaments of 38 cN / dtex was supplied, and the twist coefficient α = 8,300
It was spun for 0 s (corresponding to 191 dtex). Successively, warping was performed by using a twist setting set at 60 ° C. for 20 minutes and calculating a vertical density of 67 pieces / 2.54 cm.

Regarding the weft yarn, the conjugate multifilament yarn 55dt used in the above composite spun yarn is used.
Ex-12 filament was used. Using this multifilament yarn, after twining two yarns, Z twist of 1200 T / m was additionally twisted with a double twister. Then, a twist stop set was performed by a vacuum steam set at 80 ° C. for 40 minutes. 8
Plain weaving was performed at a horizontal density of 1 / 2.54 cm to prepare a raw fabric, and the obtained raw fabric was dyed. As a scouring / relaxing step, after treating the saucer machine at 60 to 100 ° C. in a spread state, relaxing it at 120 ° C. with a jet dyeing machine, followed by drying and intermediate setting, and then continuously reducing the alkali to a target of 15%. , Then 130 ° C by jet dyeing machine
Dyeing, drying and finishing set were performed.

For comparison, an ordinary semi-dal type polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn is used, and a double twister is used for S and Z twists of 110 dte.
The x96 filament yarn was additionally twisted at 1200 T / m. Then, twist setting was performed by vacuum steam set at 85 ° C. for 40 minutes. Using this set yarn, the W. J. Using S, two twists of S and Z were alternately woven with a plain weave at a weft density of 81 strands / 2.54 cm to produce a raw fabric, and the obtained raw fabric was dyed.

Dyeing is performed with a washer at 60 to 100 ° C.
Desizing and refining while continuously refining at 120 ° C are performed continuously at 120 ° C, followed by drying, intermediate setting, and continuous
% Target alkali reduction, then 130 ° C. dyeing with a jet dyeing machine, drying, finishing set drying, intermediate setting, 15% alkali reduction in continuous mode, then Then, dyeing was performed at 130 ° C. with a jet dyeing machine, drying, and finishing set. As for the finishing condition, the vertical / horizontal density is 80 pieces / 2.54 cm × 93 pieces / 2.
It was 54 cm.

The obtained woven fabrics are obtained by subjecting the conjugate multifilament yarn to the actual twisting of the weft yarn of the present invention, and the surface touch has a soft touch due to the difference in contraction of the warp yarn, With a mild bulge,
It has a repulsion that is completely different from conventional ones, has a lightweight feeling, and is vertical 1
It had a quality of 0% and a stretchability of 15% in the horizontal direction, and was expected to have a high-quality tailored appearance. On the other hand, the woven fabric obtained by putting the actual twist in the normal polyester multifilament yarn of the comparative example has a large surface grain effect as compared with the example, but the bulge feeling is paper-like with a touch with a core. It had a great drape and lacked in resilience, and it felt heavy. Moreover, since it has no stretchability in the vertical and horizontal directions, it was intended for sewing tailoring. The woven fabric of the example felt lighter than the comparative example, and as a result of confirming the structure of the warp and weft of the obtained woven fabric with a scanning microscope, the example shows that the fabric shrinks in a vertical / horizontal direction and is hollow in the yarn axis direction. It had a tubular structure, and the comparative example was slightly seen in the vertical direction, but was not confirmed to exist in the lateral direction.

[0067]

EFFECT OF THE INVENTION A spiral crimped yarn composed of a composite spun yarn of crimped conjugate short fibers by heat shrinkage and the same multifilament yarn and a crimped conjugate multifilament yarn by heat shrinkage having a real twist. As a result of its composition, it has a lighter weight with a coreless bulge, soft touch and firmness, which is more elegant than the conventional woven fabric using multifilament yarn with a strong twist. Since it has appropriate vertical and horizontal stretchability, it can exhibit the characteristics of sewing tailoring in the field of light clothing such as shirts, blouses, dresses, and outerwear of suits and jackets, and can be worn comfortably. It can be applied to sports casual applications such as golf and walking, nursing clothes, and working wear for caregivers. And inexpensively deployed from that you can manufacture to the new applications are expected.

Continuation of front page (56) Reference JP-A-5-247758 (JP, A) JP-A-11-43835 (JP, A) JP-A-7-292534 (JP, A) JP-B-47-2767 (JP , B1) (58) Fields investigated (Int.Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D02G 1/00-3/48 D01F 8/14 D03D 15/00-15/12

Claims (11)

(57) [Claims] 1. A crimpable conjugate multifilament aggregate in which at least two polyester polymers having different heat shrinkages are joined in parallel or in a core-sheath, and at least two components having different heat shrinkages. A long-short composite spun yarn comprising a composite of a short crimping conjugate short fiber. 2. The long-short composite spun yarn according to claim 1, wherein the long-short composite spun yarn has a real twist having a twist coefficient α represented by the following formula in a range of 3,000 to 20,000. T = α · D ^−1/2 where T: actual twist number (T / M) α: twist coefficient D: fineness of long / short composite spun yarn (dtex) 3. The crimped conjugate short fiber comprises:
2,2 [4- (2-hydroxyethoxyl] phenyl]
A composite fiber comprising a polyester (A) copolymerized with 2 to 7 mol% of procane and 5 to 13 mol% of isophthalic acid, and a polyester (B) substantially consisting of ethylene terephthalate units. The long-short composite spun yarn described in. 4. The long-short composite spun yarn contains natural fibers and cellulosic short fibers in addition to the crimpable conjugate short fibers. Long and short composite spun yarn. 5. A crimpable conjugate multifilament assembly in which at least two polyester polymers having different heat shrinkages are joined in parallel or in a core-sheath, and at least two components having different heat shrinkages. At least two components having different heat shrinkages are used for the warp yarn and the weft yarn, or the long-short composite spun yarn that is a composite of the following conjugate short fibers. Of the crimped conjugate multifilament aggregate in which the polyester polymer is joined in parallel or in a core-sheath as a weft yarn (or warp yarn), and stretches by 5 to 25% in the warp and / or the weft direction. A woven fabric characterized by having properties. 6. The long-short composite spun yarn and the crimped conjugate multifilament aggregate have a real twist having a twist coefficient α of 3,000 to 20,000 represented by the following formula. The woven fabric according to. T = α ・ D ^-1/2 where T: actual twist number (T / M) α: twist coefficient D: crimping conjugate multifilament assembly
Fineness (dtex) of body or long / short composite spun yarn 7. The crimped conjugate short fiber comprises:
2,2 [4- (2-hydroxyethoxyl] phenyl]
7. A composite fiber comprising a polyester (A) copolymerized with 2 to 7 mol% of procane and 5 to 13 mol% of isophthalic acid, and a polyester (B) substantially consisting of ethylene terephthalate units. The woven fabric according to. 8. The long-short composite spun yarn contains natural fibers and cellulosic short fibers in addition to the crimpable conjugate short fibers. fabric. 9. The woven fabric according to any one of claims 5 to 8, wherein the crimped conjugate multifilament assembly satisfies the following characteristics before crimping is exhibited. Cutting elongation (TE): 30% or less Shrinkage stress (TS): 0.265 cN / dtex or more 10. The woven fabric according to claim 5, wherein the crimped conjugate multifilament aggregate is crimp-expressed by a relaxation heat treatment. 11. The woven fabric according to claim 5, wherein the crimped conjugate multifilament assembly has a tubular hollow structure in the yarn axis direction at the center thereof.