FR3151209A3 - STABLE COMPOSITION COMPRISING HYDROCARBON OIL - Google Patents

Abstract

STABLE COMPOSITION COMPRISING HYDROCARBON OIL The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one gemini surfactant; (b) at least one lipophilic thickener; and (c) at least one hydrocarbon oil. The composition according to the present invention is stable below 30 °C. Figure for abstract: none

Description

STABLE COMPOSITION COMPRISING HYDROCARBON OIL

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition and, more preferably, a cosmetic composition for the skin which is stable

STATE OF THE ART

WO 2019/96953 discloses a composition including a gemini surfactant having a specific chemical structure with at least two fatty amide groups, and a lipophilic thickener having specific monomeric units.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

It has been discovered that when the composition disclosed in WO 2019/96953 is prepared, particularly after cooling the composition to below 30°C, the composition may become unstable.

An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition which includes at least one gemini surfactant and at least one lipophilic thickener, and which can be stable below 30°C.

The above objective can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition and, more preferably, a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising:

(a) at least one gemini surfactant;

(b) at least one lipophilic thickener and

(c) at least one hydrocarbon oil.

The (a) gemini surfactant may be selected from the compounds represented by the following formula (III):
(III)

in which

Y' independently denotes a carboxylic acid group or an alkali salt of a carboxylic acid group such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group,

j1, k1, j2 and k2 denote integers such that (j1, k1, j2, k2) = any one of (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) and (0, 2, 0, 2) and

l denotes an integer from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14 and, more preferably, from 10 to 12.

The (a) gemini surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine and sodium distearoylglutamide lysine, and a mixture thereof.

the amount of the (a) amino acid surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (b) lipophilic thickener may be chosen from lipophilic organic thickeners, preferably lipophilic organic polymers, better still lipophilic organic semi-crystalline polymers, and even better still polymers of at least one ester of (meth)acrylic acid and C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ aliphatic alcohol.

The amount of the (b) lipophilic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The hydrocarbon oil (c) may be selected from volatile and non-volatile, aliphatic and saturated hydrocarbons, preferably volatile and non-volatile C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkanes and, more preferably, volatile C ₈ -C _{22 alkanes} .

The amount of hydrocarbon oil(s) (c) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight and, better still, from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The weight ratio of quantity of hydrocarbon oil (c)/quantity of acrylic polymer (b) may be from 7 to 13, preferably from 8 to 12 and, more preferably, from 9 to 11.

The composition according to the present invention may, in addition, comprise (d) at least one UV filter, preferably chosen from organic UV filters, and, better still, chosen from the group consisting of butyl methoxydimenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, homosalate, and a mixture of these.

The amount of (d) UV filters in the composition according to the present invention may be between 1% and 40% by weight, preferably between 5% and 35% by weight and, better still, between 10% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) water.

The amount (e) of water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 20% to 70% by weight, preferably from 30% to 65% by weight and, more preferably, from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention can be in the form of an H/W emulsion.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating a keratin substance such as the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention.

After extensive research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition which includes at least one gemini surfactant and at least one lipophilic thickener, and which can be stable below 30°C.

Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a composition, comprising:

(a) at least one gemini surfactant;

(b) at least one lipophilic thickener and

(c) at least one hydrocarbon oil.

The composition according to the present invention is stable below 30°C and, therefore, the composition can be stable at room temperature.

The composition according to the present invention is stable. The term “stable” herein means that the appearance or appearance of the composition does not change, for example, as a result of heterogenization or phase separation that can be recognized visually. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is stable over a long period of time.

If the composition according to the present invention includes (e) water and is in the form of an O/W emulsion comprising a continuous aqueous phase and dispersed fatty phases, the particles of the fatty phases may be small so that they do not readily aggregate to cause phase separation. Thus, the composition according to the present invention in the form of an O/W emulsion can maintain a uniform appearance or appearance, and is therefore stable.

If the composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one UV filter, the composition acts as a barrier to UV or is capable of protecting against UV rays. In addition, the composition according to the present invention can form a homogeneous or uniform film comprising the (d) UV filter(s) which can provide a homogeneous or uniform distribution of the (d) UV filter(s), which can provide good protection against UV.

Hereinafter, the composition according to the present invention will be explained in more detail.

[Composition]

(Gemini surfactant)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one gemini surfactant. Only one type of gemini surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of gemini surfactants may be used in combination.

Gemini surfactants or dimeric surfactants are well known. For a detailed description of the different chemical structures and their physicochemical properties, reference can be made to the following publications:

Milton J. Rosen, Gemini Surfactants, Properties of surfactant molecules with two hydrophilic groups and two hydrophobic groups, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, Vol. 113, December 1998, pp. 49-55 and

Milton J. Rosen, Recent Developments in Gemini Surfactants, Allured's Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, July 2001, Vol. 116, no. 7, pp. 67-70.

The (a) gemini surfactant is anionic and comprises a plurality of hydrophobic moieties and a plurality of hydrophilic moieties.

The (a) gemini surfactant may comprise at least two fatty amide groups.

The (a) gemini surfactant can be represented by the following formula (I), as well as its stereoisomers:

Or :

a) R ₁ denotes an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 25 carbon atoms or a radical having the formula below:

-(CH ₂ ) _k1 -CH[-NH-CO-(CH ₂ ) _l -CH ₃ ]-(CH ₂ ) _j1 -Y'

b) R ₃ denotes an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 25 carbon atoms or a radical having the formula below:

-(CH ₂ ) _k2 -CH[-NH-CO-(CH ₂ ) _l -CH ₃ ]-(CH ₂ ) _j2 -Y'

(c) R ₂ denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms or a radical of formula -CH(Y')-(CH ₂ ) _n' -;

with :

n' representing an integer between 1 and 8, preferably between 3 and 5, and even better still equal to 4;

Y' representing, independently of one another, a carboxylic acid group or an alkali salt of a carboxylic acid group, such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group; j1, k1, j2 and k2 representing an integer such that (j1, k1, j2, k2) = (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) or (0, 2, 0, 2) and

l representing an integer from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14, and, more preferably, from 10 to 12 and

(d) X and Y independently denote the group -(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a -(C ₃ H ₆ O) _b Z, in which

- Z denotes a hydrogen atom or the radical -CH ₂ -COOM, -SO ₃ M, -P(O)(OM) ₂ , -C ₂ H ₄ -SO ₃ M, -C ₃ H ₆ -SO ₃ M or -CH ₂ (CHOH) ₄ CH ₂ OH, where M and M' represent H or an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal or ammonium or alkanolammonium ion,

- a is between 0 and 15;

- b is between 0 and 10 and

- the sum of a + b is between 1 and 25;

And

e) n is between 1 and 10.

According to a first embodiment of the present invention, the (a) gemini surfactant(s) may be chosen from the compounds of the following formula (II), as well as their stereoisomers:

Or :

(a) R ₁ and R ₃ denote, independently of one another, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 25 carbon atoms;

(b) R ₂ denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms;

And

(c) X and Y denote, independently of each other, a group -(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a -(C ₃ H ₆ O) _b Z, in which

- Z denotes a hydrogen atom or the radical -CH ₂ -COOM, -SO ₃ M, -P(O)(OM) ₂ , -C ₂ H ₄ -SO ₃ M, -C ₃ H ₆ -SO ₃ M or -CH ₂ (CHOH) ₄ CH ₂ OH, where M and M' represent H or an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal or ammonium or alkanolammonium ion,

- a is between 0 and 15;

- b is between 0 and 10 and

- the sum of a + b goes from 1 to 25 and

- n is between 1 and 10.

According to a preferred embodiment, the (a) gemini surfactant(s) of formula (II) are such that each of the groups R ₁ -CO- and R ₃ -CO- comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and preferably denotes a coconut fatty acid residue (composed mainly of lauric acid and myristic acid).

According to another preferred embodiment, the (a) gemini surfactant(s) of formula (II) are such that, for each of the radicals X and Y, the sum of a and b has an average value ranging from 10 to 20 and is preferably equal to 15. A preferred group for Z is the -SO ₃ M group, where M is preferably an alkali metal ion, such as a sodium ion.

In formula (II) as defined above, the spacer R ₂ advantageously consists of a linear C ₁ -C ₃ alkylene chain and, preferably, of an ethylene chain (CH ₂ CH ₂ ).

Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1.

A surfactant of this type is notably that identified by the INCI name: sodium PEG-15 dicocoylethylenediamine sulfate, having the following structure:

it being understood that PEG represents the group -CH ₂ CH ₂ O- and that cocoyl represents the coconut fatty acid residue.

This surfactant has a molecular structure very similar to that of ceramide-3.

Preferably, the gemini surfactant of formula (II) may be used as a mixture with other surfactants and, in particular, as a mixture with (a) a glyceryl ester of a C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid (preferably C ₁₄ -C ₂₀ such as a stearate), (b) a diester of a C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid (preferably C ₁₄ -C ₂₀ such as a stearate) and citric acid and glycerol, and (c) a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohol (preferably behenyl alcohol).

More preferably, the gemini surfactant of formula (II) may represent from 10% to 20% by weight and advantageously 15% by weight; the glyceryl ester of a C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid represents from 30% to 40% by weight, advantageously 35% by weight; the diester of a C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid and of citric acid and of glycerol represents from 10% to 20% by weight, advantageously 15% by weight; and the C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohol represents from 30% to 40% by weight, advantageously 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the surfactant mixture containing the gemini surfactant.

Alternatively, the gemini surfactant of formula (II) may be used as a mixture with an anionic surfactant, such as a lauric acid ester, sodium lauryl lactate. In this case, the gemini surfactant preferably represents from 30 to 50% by weight, and the anionic surfactant represents from 30 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture.

Gemini surfactant can be used, for example, as a mixture with other surfactants in the form of the products marketed by the company Sasol under the names Ceralution ^® and in particular the following products:

- Ceralution ^® H: behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl citrate and sodium PEG-15 dicocoylethylenediamine sulfate;

- Ceralution ^® F: sodium lauroyl lactylate and sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate and

- Ceralution ^® C: water, capric/caprylic triglyceride, glycerin, ceteareth-25, sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, sodium lauroyl lactylate, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, gum arabic, xanthan gum, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben (INCI names).

According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the gemini surfactant(s) of formula (II) are in the form of a mixture of surfactants comprising from 3% to 50% by weight of gemini surfactants of formula (II), preferably from 10 to 50% by weight, and even better still from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture.

According to a second embodiment of the present invention, the (a) gemini surfactant(s) may be chosen from the compounds of the following formula (III), as well as their stereoisomers:

Or :

Y' represents, independently of each other, a carboxylic acid group or an alkali salt of a carboxylic acid group, such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group;

j1, k1, j2 and k2 represent an integer such that (j1, k1, j2, k2) = (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) or (0, 2, 0, 2) and

l represents an integer from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14 and, more preferably, from 10 to 12.

According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, in formula (III), l represents an integer ranging from 8 to 12, j1 = j2 = 0, and k1 = k2 = 2.

Preferably, in formula (III), Y' represents -COONa, j1 = j2 = 0, k1 = k2 = 2 and I = 10.

Examples of gemini surfactants of formula (III) include dilauramidoglutamide lysine sodium, dimyristoylglutamide lysine sodium and distearoylglutamide lysine sodium. Dilauramidoglutamide lysine sodium is particularly preferred. Dilauramidoglutamide lysine sodium is marketed in particular by the company Asahi Kasei Chemicals under the names Pellicer L-30 and Pellicer LB-10.

The above amide compound represented by formula (III) can be prepared, for example, by reacting a long-chain n-acyl amino acid anhydride with a basic amino acid, such as lysine, in water and/or a mixed solvent of water and organic solvent(s), or in an inert organic solvent(s) such as tetrahydrofuran, benzene, toluene, xylene tetrachloromethane, chloroform, acetone or the like, or without any solvent, at -5°C to 200°C, preferably 5°C to 100°C, and more preferably 0°C to 60°C.

The gemini surfactant(s) of formula (III) is (are) in particular described in application WO 2004/020394.

The amount of the gemini surfactant(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of the (a) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less and, more preferably, 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Accordingly, the amount of the (a) gemini surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even better from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Lipophilic thickener)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one lipophilic thickener. Only one type of lipophilic thickener may be used, but two or more different types of lipophilic thickeners may be used in combination.

The lipophilic thickener (b) can thicken a fat phase that comprises, at least, (c) the hydrocarbon oil. In other words, (b) the lipophilic thickener can increase the viscosity of the fat phase.

The term "lipophilic" herein means a substance soluble in oil or oils at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil or oils at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (10 ⁵ Pa). Therefore, (b) the lipophilic thickener may be present in the fat phase.

The lipophilic thickener (b) can be inorganic or organic.

The lipophilic organic thickener may preferably be chosen from lipophilic organic polymers.

It is preferable that (b) the lipophilic thickener is selected from semi-crystalline or crystalline polymers.

The semi-crystalline or crystalline polymer is preferably a semi-crystalline polymer. The term “semi-crystalline polymer” refers to polymers comprising a crystallizable portion, a crystallizable pendant and/or terminal chain or a crystallizable block in the backbone and/or at the ends, and an amorphous portion in the backbone, and having a reversible first-order phase change temperature, in particular melting (solid-liquid transition). When the crystallizable portion is in the form of a crystallizable block of the polymer backbone, the amorphous portion of the polymer is in the form of an amorphous block; the semi-crystalline polymer is, in this case, a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type, comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block. The term “block” generally means at least five identical repeating units. The crystallizable block(s) are then of a chemical nature different from the amorphous block(s).

The semi-crystalline polymer may have a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C (in particular ranging from 30°C to 80°C), preferably ranging from 30°C to 60°C and, in particular, ranging from 40°C to 50°C. This melting point is a first-order state change temperature.

The melting point can be measured by any known method and, in particular, using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter marketed under the name “MDSC 2000” by the company TA Instruments.

Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer(s) may have a number average molecular weight greater than or equal to 1,000.

Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer(s) may have a number-average molecular mass Mn ranging from 2,000 to 800,000, preferably from 3,000 to 500,000, better still from 4,000 to 150,000 and especially less than 100,000 and, better still, from 4,000 to 99,000. Preferably, they have a number-average molecular mass greater than 5,600, for example ranging from 5,700 to 99,000.

For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "crystallizable chain or sequence" herein designates a chain or block which, if it were obtained alone, would change from the amorphous state to the crystalline state reversibly, depending on whether the temperature is higher or lower than the melting point. For the purposes of the present invention, a "chain" is a group of atoms, which are pendant or lateral relative to the backbone of the polymer. A "block" is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, this group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer. Advantageously, the "pendant crystallizable chain" may be a chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the crystallizable block(s) or chain(s) of the semi-crystalline polymer(s) represent(s) at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and, better still, at least 40%. The semi-crystalline polymers containing crystallizable blocks may be block or multi-block polymers. They may be obtained by polymerization of a monomer containing reactive double bonds (or ethylenic bonds) or by polycondensation. When it comes to polymers containing crystallizable side chains, these side chains are advantageously in random or statistical form.

Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers that can be used in the composition according to the present invention are of synthetic origin. In addition, they do not comprise a polysaccharide backbone. In general, the crystallizable units (chains or blocks) of the semi-crystalline polymers can come from monomer(s) containing one or more crystallizable block(s) or chain(s), used for the manufacture of the semi-crystalline polymers.

According to the present invention, the semi-crystalline polymer may be chosen from block copolymers comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block, and homopolymers and copolymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain per repeating unit, and mixtures thereof.

The semi-crystalline polymers which can be used in the present invention are in particular:

- block copolymers of polyolefins with controlled crystallization, in particular those whose monomers are described in EP-A-0 951 897,

- polycondensates, in particular of the aliphatic or aromatic polyester type or of the aliphatic/aromatic copolyester type,

- homopolymers or copolymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain and homopolymers or copolymers carrying at least one crystallizable block in the skeleton, for example those described in document US-A-5 156 911,

- homopolymers or copolymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain, containing in particular one or more fluoro groups, as described in document WO-A-01/19333 and

- their mixtures.

In the last two cases, the crystallizable side chain(s) or block(s) are hydrophobic.

(i) Semi-crystalline polymers containing crystallizable side chains

In particular, those defined in documents US-A-5 156 911 and WO-A-01/19333 may be mentioned. These are homopolymers or copolymers comprising from 50% to 100% by weight of units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers carrying a crystallizable hydrophobic side chain.

These homopolymers or copolymers are of any nature, provided that they meet the conditions mentioned above.

They can result in:

- polymerization, in particular free radical polymerization, of one or more monomers containing one or more reactive or ethylenic double bonds with respect to a polymerization, namely a vinyl, (meth)acrylic or allyl group or

- polycondensation of one or more monomers carrying co-reactive groups (carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, alcohol, amine or isocyanate), such as, for example, polyesters, polyurethanes, polyethers, polyureas or polyamides.

In general, these polymers are chosen, in particular, from homopolymers and copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer containing one or more crystallizable chains which can be represented by the following formula:

with M representing an atom of the polymer skeleton, S representing a spacer and C representing a crystallizable group.

The crystallizable chains “-SC” may be aliphatic or aromatic, and optionally fluorinated or perfluorinated. “S” represents in particular the group (CH ₂ ) _n or (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n or (CH ₂ O), which may be linear or branched or cyclic, n being an integer ranging from 0 to 22. Preferably, “S” is a linear group. Preferably, “S” and “C” are different.

When the crystallizable chains "-SC" are aliphatic chains based on hydrocarbons, they comprise alkyl chains based on hydrocarbons containing at least 11 carbon atoms and at most 40 carbon atoms and, more preferably, at most 24 carbon atoms. In particular, they are aliphatic or alkyl chains containing at least 12 carbon atoms, and they are preferably C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ alkyl chains. When they are fluoroalkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, they contain at least six fluorinated carbon atoms and in particular at least eleven carbon atoms, including at least six fluorinated carbon atoms.

Examples of semi-crystalline polymers or copolymers bearing one or more crystallizable chains include those resulting from the polymerization of one or more of the following monomers: saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates with the C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ alkyl group, perfluoroalkyl (meth)acrylates with a C ₁₁ -C ₁₅ perfluoroalkyl group, N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides with the C ₁₄ to C ₂₄ alkyl group with or without a fluorine atom, vinyl esters containing alkyl or perfluoro(alkyl) chains with the C ₁₄ to C ₂₄ alkyl group (with at least 6 fluorine atoms per perfluoroalkyl chain), vinyl ethers containing alkyl or perfluoro(alkyl) chains whose alkyl group is C ₁₄ to C ₂₄ and has at least 6 fluorine atoms per chain perfluoroalkyl, C ₁₄ to C ₂₄ alpha-olefins such as, for example, octadecene, para-alkylstyrenes with an alkyl group containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

When the polymers result from polycondensation, the crystallizable hydrocarbon-based and/or fluorinated chains as defined above are supported by a monomer which may be a diacid, a diol, a diamine or a diisocyanate.

When the polymers which are the subject of the present invention are copolymers, they additionally contain from 0 to 50% of the Y or Z group resulting from the copolymerization:

α) of Y which is a polar or non-polar monomer or a mixture of the two:

When Y is a polar monomer, it is either a monomer bearing polyoxyalkylenated groups (in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated groups) or a hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylate, for example a hydroxyethyl acrylate, a (meth)acrylamide, an N-alkyl(meth)acrylamide, an N,N-dialkyl(meth)acrylamide such as, for example, N,N-diisopropylacrylamide or N-vinylpyrrolidone (NVP), an N-vinylcaprolactam, a monomer bearing at least one carboxylic acid group, for example (meth)acrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid or fumaric acid, or bearing a carboxylic acid anhydride group, for example maleic anhydride and mixtures thereof.

When Y is a non-polar monomer, it may be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl (meth)acrylate ester, a vinyl ester, an alkyl vinyl ether, an α-olefin, styrene or styrene substituted with a C ₁ to C ₁₀ alkyl group, for example α-methylstyrene.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “alkyl” denotes a saturated group, in particular _C8 to _C24 , unless otherwise stated, and, better still, _C14 to _C24 .

β) of Z which is a polar monomer or a mixture of polar monomers. In this case, Z has the same definition as the “polar Y” defined above.

Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers containing a crystallizable side chain are homopolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylate or alkyl (meth)acrylamide with an alkyl group as defined above and, in particular, of C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ , copolymers of these monomers with a hydrophilic monomer, preferably of a nature different from (meth)acrylic acid, for example N-vinylpyrrolidone or hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof.

(ii) Polymers carrying at least one crystallizable block in the skeleton

These polymers are in particular block copolymers made up of at least two blocks of different chemical nature, one of which is crystallizable:

- the block polymers defined in US-A-5,156,911 and

- olefin or cycloolefin block copolymers containing a crystallizable chain, for example those derived from the block polymerization of:

cyclobutene, cyclohexene, cyclooctene, norbornene (i.e. bicyclo(2,2,1)-2-heptene), 5-methylnorbornene, 5-ethylnorbornene, 5,6-dimethylnorbornene, 5,5,6-trimethylnorbornene, 5-ethylidenorbornene, 5-phenylnorbornene, 5-benzylnorbornene, 5-vinylnorbornene, 1,4,5,8-dimethano-1,2,3,4,4a,5,8a-tetrahydronaphthalene, dicyclopentadiene, or mixtures thereof,

with ethylene, propylene, 1-butene, 3-methyl-1-butene, 1-hexene, 4-methyl-1-pentene, 1-octene, 1-decene or 1-eicosene or mixtures thereof,

in particular copoly(ethylene/norbornene) blocks and block terpolymers (ethylene/propylene/ethylidene-norbornene). Those resulting from the block copolymerization of at least two C ₂ -C ₁₆ olefins, more preferably C ₂ -C ₁₂ and even more preferably C ₄ -C ₁₂ α- such as those mentioned above and in particular block bipolymers of ethylene and 1-octene may also be used.

The copolymers may be copolymers containing at least one crystallizable block, the copolymer residue being amorphous (at room temperature). These copolymers may also contain two crystallizable blocks of different chemical nature. The preferred copolymers are those which simultaneously contain at room temperature a crystallizable block and an amorphous block which are both hydrophobic and lipophilic, distributed sequentially; examples include polymers containing one of the crystallizable blocks and one of the amorphous blocks below:

- Block crystallizable by nature: a) of polyester type, for example poly(alkylene terephthalate), b) of polyolefin type, for example polyethylenes or polypropylenes and

- Amorphous and lipophilic block, for example amorphous polyolefins or copoly(olefin) such as poly(isobutylene), hydrogenated polybutadiene or hydrogenated poly(isoprene).

Examples of such copolymers containing a crystallizable block and a separate amorphous block include:

α) block copolymers of poly(ε-caprolactone)-b-poly(butadiene), preferably hydrogenated, such as those described in the article “Melting behavior of poly(ε-caprolactone)-block-polybutadiene copolymers” by S. Nojima, Macromolecules, 32, 3727-3734 (1999),

β) hydrogenated block copolymers or multiblock poly(butylene terephthalate)-b-poly(isoprene) cited in the article “Study of morphological and mechanical properties of PP/PBT” by B. Boutevin et al., Polymer Bulletin, 34, 117-123 (1995),

γ) the poly(ethylene)-b-copoly(ethylene/propylene) block copolymers cited in the articles “Morphology of semicrystalline block copolymers of ethylene-(ethylene-alt-propylene)” by P. Rangarajan et al., Macromolecules, 26, 4640-4645 (1993) and “Polymer aggregates with crystalline cores: the system poly(ethylene)poly(ethylene-propylene)” by P. Richter et al., Macromolecules, 30, 1053-1068 (1997).

δ) poly(ethylene)-b-poly(ethylethylene) block copolymers mentioned in the general article “Crystallization in block copolymers” by I.W. Hamley, Advances in Polymer Science, vol. 148, 113-137 (1999).

The semi-crystalline polymers that can be used for the present invention can be partially crosslinked or not, provided that the degree of crosslinking does not interfere with their dissolution or dispersion in the liquid fatty phase optionally present in the composition by heating above their melting point. It can then be a chemical crosslinking, by reaction with a multifunctional monomer during the polymerization. It can also be a physical crosslinking, which can then be due either to the establishment of hydrogen or dipolar bonds between groups carried by the polymer, for example dipolar interactions between the carboxylate ionomers, these interactions being in small quantity and supported by the backbone of the polymer; or to a phase separation between the crystallizable blocks and the amorphous blocks, supported by the polymer.

Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers which can be used for the present invention are not crosslinked.

According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the polymer is chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer containing a crystallizable chain chosen from saturated C ₁₄ to C ₂₄ alkyl (meth)acrylates, C ₁₁ to C ₁₅ perfluoroalkyl (meth)acrylates, C ₁₄ to C ₂₄ N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides with or without a fluorine atom, vinyl esters containing C ₁₄ to C ₂₄ alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, vinyl ethers containing C ₁₄ to C ₂₄ alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, C ₁₄ to C ₂₄ alpha-olefins, para-alkylstyrenes with an alkyl group containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, with at least one C ₁ to C 24 monocarboxylic acid ester or amide. ₁₀ optionally fluorinated, which can be represented by the following formula:

wherein R ₁ is H or CH ₃ , R represents an optionally fluorinated C ₁ -C ₁₀ alkyl group and X represents O, NH or NR ₂ wherein R ₂ represents an optionally fluorinated C ₁ -C ₁₀ alkyl group.

According to a more particular embodiment of the present invention, the polymer is derived from a monomer containing a crystallizable chain chosen from _C14 to _C22 saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates and even more particularly poly(stearyl acrylate) or poly(behenyl acrylate).

It is preferable that (b) the lipophilic thickener is a polymer of monomers comprising at least one monomer represented by the following formula:

H ₂ C=CR ₁ -CO-XR ₂

in which

R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

R ₂ denotes a linear or branched C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl group which may be substituted by at least one halogen atom and

X denotes a divalent group selected from -O- or NR ₃ - in which R ₃ represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₀ alkyl group which may be substituted by at least one halogen atom.

The _C10 - _C30 alkyl group can be a stearyl group and a behenyl group.

It is preferred that (b) the lipophilic thickener is a polymer of at least one ester of (meth)acrylic acid and C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ aliphatic alcohol.

As particular examples of structuring semi-crystalline polymers which can be used in the composition according to the present invention, mention may be made of polymers having the INCI name "Poly C _10- C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate", for example the Intelimer® products from the company Evonik, for example the product TEGO® SP 13-1, which is a polystearyl acrylate and has a melting point of 48 °C, or the product TEGO® SP 13-6, which is a behenyl polymer.

Semi-crystalline polymers can notably be:

those described in examples 3, 4, 5, 7, 9 and 13 of US-A-5,156,911 containing a -COOH group, resulting from the copolymerization of acrylic acid and C ₅ to C ₁₆ alkyl (meth)acrylate and more particularly from the copolymerization:

· acrylic acid, hexadecyl acrylate and isodecyl acrylate in a weight ratio of 1/16/3,

· acrylic acid and pentadecyl acrylate in a weight ratio of 1/19,

· acrylic acid, hexadecyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate in a weight ratio of 2.5/76.5/20,

· acrylic acid, hexadecyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate in a weight ratio of 5/85/10,

· acrylic acid and octadecyl methacrylate in a weight ratio of 2.5/97.5,

· hexadecyl acrylate, polyethylene glycol monomethyl ether methacrylate containing 8 ethylene glycol units, and acrylic acid in a weight ratio of 8.5/1/0.5.

It is also possible to use the National Starch "O" structure, as described in US-A-5,736,125, with a melting point of 44 °C, as well as semi-crystalline polymers with crystallizable pendant chains comprising fluoro groups, as described in Examples 1, 4, 6, 7 and 8 of WO-A-01/19333.

It is also possible to use semi-crystalline polymers obtained by copolymerization of stearyl acrylate and acrylic acid or NVP as described in document US-A-5 519 063 or EP-A-550 745, with melting points of 40 °C and 38 °C respectively.

It is also possible to use semi-crystalline polymers obtained by copolymerization of behenyl acrylate and acrylic acid or NVP, as described in documents US-A-5,519,063 and EP-A-550,745, with melting points of 60 °C and 58 °C respectively.

Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers do not comprise any carboxylic groups.

Finally, the semi-crystalline polymers according to the present invention can also be chosen from waxy polymers obtained by metallocene catalysis, such as those described in patent application US 2007/0 031 361.

These polymers are homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene and/or propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis, that is to say: by polymerization at low pressure and in the presence of a metallocene catalyst.

The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the waxes obtained by metallocene catalysis described in the above document is less than or equal to 25,000 g/mole and ranges, for example, from 2,000 to 22,000 g/mole and, more preferably, from 4,000 to 20,000 g/mole.

The number average molecular weight (Mn) of the waxes obtained by metallocene catalysis described in the above document is preferably less than or equal to 15,000 g/mole and ranges, for example, from 1,000 to 12,000 g/mole and, more preferably, from 2,000 to 10,000 g/mole.

The polydispersity index I of the polymer is equal to the ratio of the weight average molecular mass Mw to the number average molecular mass Mn. Preferably, the polydispersity index of the waxy polymers is between 1.5 and 10, more preferably between 1.5 and 5, even more preferably between 1.5 and 3 and, even more preferably, between 2 and 2.5.

The waxy homopolymers and copolymers can be obtained in a known manner from ethylene and/or propylene monomers, for example by metallocene catalysis according to the process described in document EP 571 882.

The homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene and/or propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis may be unmodified or “polarly” modified (polarly modified waxes, i.e. waxes modified so that they have the properties of a polar wax). The polarly modified waxy homopolymers and copolymers may be prepared in a known manner from unmodified waxy homopolymers and copolymers such as those described above by oxidation with oxygen-containing gases, such as air, or by grafting with polar monomers such as maleic acid or acrylic acid or alternative derivatives of these acids. These two routes for the polar modification of polyolefins obtained by metallocene catalysis are described, respectively, in EP 890 583 and US 5,998,547, for example, the content of these two documents being incorporated herein by reference.

According to the present invention, the polarly modified homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene and/or propylene prepared via metallocene catalysis which are particularly preferred are polymers modified so as to have hydrophilic properties. Examples which may be mentioned include homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene and/or propylene modified by the presence of hydrophilic groups such as maleic anhydride, acrylate, methacrylate, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), etc.

Homopolymers or copolymers of waxy ethylene and/or propylene modified by the presence of hydrophilic groups such as maleic anhydride or acrylate are particularly preferred.

Examples that can be cited include:

- polypropylene waxes modified with maleic anhydride (PPMA) marketed by Clariant, or polypropylene-ethylene-maleic anhydride copolymers, such as those marketed by Clariant under the name LicoCare, for example LicoCare PP207 LP3349, LicoCare CM401 LP3345, LicoCare CA301 LP3346 and LicoCare CA302 LP3347 or

- unmodified polyethylene waxes marketed by Clariant, such as the product LicoCare PE 102 LP3329.

It is preferable that (b) the lipophilic thickener is selected from lipophilic organic thickeners, more preferably lipophilic organic polymers, more preferably lipophilic organic semi-crystalline polymers, and even more preferably polymers of at least one ester of (meth)acrylic acid and C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ aliphatic alcohol.

The amount of the (b) lipophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of the (b) lipophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 2% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the lipophilic thickener(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Hydrocarbon oil)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one hydrocarbon oil. Only one type of hydrocarbon oil may be used, but two or more different types of hydrocarbon oils may be used in combination.

The term "oil" as used herein means a non-aqueous, water-miscible compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The term "hydrocarbon" herein means a compound formed by carbon and hydrogen atoms, and does not include any heteroatoms such as oxygen and nitrogen atoms.

The hydrocarbon oil (c) can form at least one fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention.

If the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O/W emulsion, (c) the hydrocarbon oil in the composition according to the present invention can form fatty phases dispersed in the O/W emulsion.

Hydrocarbon oil (c) can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil (c) is a nonpolar oil. The term "nonpolar oil" as used herein means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, d _a , is equal to 0 (J/cm ³ ) ^1/2 . The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three-dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

The hydrocarbon oil (c) may be selected from aliphatic hydrocarbon oils, alicyclic hydrocarbon oils and aromatic hydrocarbon oils, preferably aliphatic hydrocarbon oils, and, more preferably, aliphatic and saturated hydrocarbon oils.

Hydrocarbon oil (c) can be volatile or non-volatile. It is preferable that hydrocarbon oil (c) is volatile. In other words, it is preferable that hydrocarbon oil (c) is a volatile hydrocarbon oil.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile" oil denotes an oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour, at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The volatile oil may be a liquid at room temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^-3 to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and, preferably, ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.1 to 10 mmHg).

In a preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil has a flash point greater than 65°C, and more preferably greater than 80°C.

The hydrocarbon oil (c) may be selected from C ₈ -C ₂₂ branched hydrocarbons, preferably C ₉ -C ₂₁ branched hydrocarbons and, more preferably, C ₁₀ -C ₂₀ branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins). It is even more preferable that the hydrocarbon oil (c) is selected from the group consisting of isodecane, isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), hydrogenated farnesene (hemisqualane), isohexadecane and a mixture thereof.

On the other hand, the hydrocarbon oil (c) may also be selected from linear C ₈ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbons, preferably linear C ₉ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbons and, more preferably, linear C ₁₀ -C ₂₀ alkanes. It is even more preferable that the hydrocarbon oil (c) is selected from the group consisting of n-decane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane and n-hexadecane, n-heptadecane, n-octadecane, n-nonadecane, and a mixture thereof.

As the hydrocarbon oil (c), one or more commercial products may be used. For example, as the hydrocarbon oil (c), mention may be made of C13-16 isoalkane, isohexadecane, C15-19 alkane and a mixture thereof.

In one embodiment, (c) the hydrocarbon oil may be selected from

- mineral oils

- liquid paraffins or their derivatives,

- squalane or squalene,

- isoeicosane,

- naphthalene oil,

- polybutylenes such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g/mole), Indopol H-300 (MW = 1,340 g/mole) and Indopol H-1500 (MW = 2,160 g/mole) marketed or manufactured by the company Amoco,

- polyisobutenes,

- hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parleam® marketed by the company Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E marketed or manufactured by the company Amoco (MW = 1340 g/mole), Viseal 20000 marketed or manufactured by the company Synteal (MW = 6000 g/mole) and Rewopal PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by the company Witco (MW = 1000 g/mole), or Parleam Lite marketed by NOF Corporation,

- decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, in particular Indopol L-14,

- polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: Puresyn 10 (MW = 723 g/mole) and Puresyn 150 (MW = 9,200 g/mole) marketed or manufactured by Mobil Chemicals, or Puresyn 6 marketed by ExxonMobil Chemical) and

- their mixtures.

It is preferable that the hydrocarbon oil (c) is selected from volatile and non-volatile, aliphatic and saturated hydrocarbons, preferably volatile and non-volatile C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkanes and, more preferably, volatile C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkanes.

The amount of the (c) hydrocarbon oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (c) hydrocarbon oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of hydrocarbon oil(s) (c) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight and, better still, from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The weight ratio of the amount of hydrocarbon oil (c) to the amount of lipophilic polymer (b) may be greater than or equal to 7, preferably greater than or equal to 8 and, more preferably, greater than or equal to 9.

The weight ratio of the amount of hydrocarbon oil (c) to the amount of lipophilic polymer (b) may be less than or equal to 13, preferably less than or equal to 12 and, more preferably, less than or equal to 11.

The weight ratio of quantity of hydrocarbon oil (c)/quantity of acrylic polymer (b) may be from 7 to 13, preferably from 8 to 12 and, more preferably, from 9 to 11.

(UV filter)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one UV filter. A single type of (d) UV filter or a combination of different types of (d) UV filters may be used.

There is no limit to the type of UV filter (d). The UV filter (d) can be selected from inorganic UV filters, organic UV filters and their mixtures. It is preferable that the UV filter (d) is selected from organic UV filters.

The amount (d) of UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more and, even better, 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of UV filter(s) (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 35% by weight or less and better still 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (d) UV filters in the composition according to the present invention may be between 1% and 40% by weight, preferably between 5% and 35% by weight and, better still, between 10% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Inorganic UV filter)

The UV filter (d) can be selected from inorganic UV filters. If two or more inorganic UV filters are used, they can be the same or different.

The inorganic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV-A and/or UV-B region. The inorganic UV filter may be hydrophilic and/or lipophilic. The inorganic UV filter is preferably insoluble in solvents such as water and ethanol commonly used in cosmetics.

It is preferable that the inorganic UV filter is in the form of a fine particle such that the average (primary) diameter thereof is 1 nm to 50 µm, preferably 5 nm to 500 nm, and more preferably 10 nm to 200 nm. The (primary) particle size or the average (primary) particle diameter here is an arithmetic average diameter.

The inorganic UV filter can be chosen from the group consisting of coated or uncoated metal oxides and their mixtures.

Preferably, the inorganic UV filter is selected from pigments (average primary particle size: generally from 5 nm to 50 nm, preferably from 10 nm to 50 nm) formed from metal oxides, such as, for example, pigments formed from titanium oxide (amorphous or crystalline in rutile and/or anatase form), iron oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, which are all UV photoprotective agents well known as such. Preferably, the inorganic UV filter is selected from titanium oxide, zinc oxide and, more preferably, titanium oxide.

The inorganic UV filter may or may not be coated. The inorganic UV filter may have at least one coating. The coating may comprise at least one compound selected from the group consisting of alumina, silica, aluminum hydroxide, silicones, silanes, fatty acids or salts thereof (such as sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts), fatty alcohols, lecithin, amino acids, polysaccharides, proteins, alkanolamines, waxes such as beeswax, (meth)acrylic polymers, organic UV filters and (per)fluorinated compounds.

It is preferable that the coating includes at least one organic UV filter. As an organic UV filter in the coating, a dibenzoylmethane derivative such as butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) and 2,2'-Methylenebis[6-(2H-Benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethyl-butyl)

[Phenol] (Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol) marketed as “TINOSORB M” by BASF is preferable.

As is known, the silicones in the coating(s) may be organosilicon polymers or oligomers comprising a linear or cyclic and branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitable functional silanes and essentially composed of repeating main units in which the silicon atoms are linked to each other by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly linked to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom.

The term "silicones" also includes the silanes necessary for their preparation, in particular alkylsilanes.

The silicones used for the coating(s) are preferably selected from the group consisting of alkylsilanes, polydialkylsiloxanes and polyalkylhydrosiloxanes. More preferably, the silicones are selected from the group consisting of octyltrimethylsilane, polydimethylsiloxanes and polymethylhydrosiloxanes.

Of course, inorganic UV filters consisting of metal oxides may, before their treatment with silicones, have been treated with other surfactants, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, organic compounds, silicon compounds or mixtures thereof.

The coated inorganic UV filter may have been prepared by subjecting the inorganic UV filter to one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with any of the compounds described above, as well as polyethylenes, metal alkalis (titanium or aluminum alkalis), metal oxides, sodium hexametaphosphate, and those shown, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64.

Coated inorganic UV filters can be coated titanium oxides:

silica, such as Ikeda's "Sunveil" and Sunjin Chemical's "Sunsil TIN 50";

silica and iron oxide, such as Ikeda's product "Sunveil F";

silica and alumina, such as the products “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA” from Tayca, “Tioveil” from Tioxide and “Mirasun TiW 60” from Rhodia;

alumina, such as Ishihara’s “Tipaque TTO-55 (B)” and “Tipaque TTO-55 (A)”, and Kemira’s “UVT 14/4”;

alumina and aluminum stearate, such as Tayca’s “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z or MT-01”, Uniqema’s “Solaveil CT-10 W” and “Solaveil CT 100”, and Merck’s “Eusolex T-AVO”;

alumina and aluminum laurate, such as Tayca’s “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S” product;

iron oxide and iron stearate, such as the product “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F” from Tayca;

zinc oxide and zinc stearate, such as Tayca's product “BR351”;

of silica and alumina and treated with silicone, such as the products “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS”, “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS” and “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS” from Tayca;

of silica, alumina and aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone, such as the product “STT-30-DS” from Titan Kogyo;

silica and silicone treated, such as Kemira's “UV-Titan X 195” product;

alumina and treated with silicone, such as the products “Tipaque TTO-55 (S)” from Ishihara or “UV Titan M 262” from Kemira;

triethanolamine, such as the product “STT-65-S” from Titan Kogyo;

stearic acid, such as Ishihara's "Tipaque TTO-55 (C)" or

sodium hexametaphosphate, such as Tayca’s “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W” product.

Other silicone treated titanium oxide pigments are preferably octyltrimethylsilane treated TiO ₂ having an average individual particle size of 25 and 40 nm, such as those marketed under the trademark "T 805" by Degussa Silices, polydimethylsiloxane treated TiO ₂ having an average individual particle size of 21 nm, such as those marketed under the trademark "70250 Cardre UF TiO ₂ Si ₃ " by Cardre, and polydimethylhydrosiloxane treated anatase/rutile TiO ₂ having an average individual particle size of 25 nm, such as those marketed under the trademark "Microtitanium Dioxide USP carbonate Hydrophobic" by Color Techniques.

Preferably, the following coated _TiO2 can be used as an inorganic UV filter coated with the following elements:

stearic acid (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO ₂ , such as Tayca's product “MT-100 TV”, with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm;

dimethicone (and) stearic acid (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO ₂ , such as the product “SA-TTO-S4” from Miyoshi Kasei, with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm;

silica (and) TiO ₂ , such as Tayca's product “MT-100 WP”, with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm;

dimethicone (and) silica (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO ₂ , such as Tayca's product “MT-Y02” and “MT-Y-110 M3S”, with an average primary particle diameter of 10 nm;

dimethicone (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO ₂ , such as the product “SA-TTO-S3” from Miyoshi Kasei, with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm;

dimethicone (and) alumina (and) TiO ₂ , such as the product “UV TITAN M170” from Sachtleben, with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm and

silica (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) alginic acid (and) TiO ₂ , such as Tayca's product “MT-100 AQ”, with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm.

In terms of UV filtering ability, TiO ₂ coated with at least one organic UV filter is preferable. For example, avobenzone (and) stearic acid (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO ₂ , such as Tayca's product "HXMT-100ZA", whose average primary particle diameter is 15 nm, can be used for UV filtering.

Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Tayca under the brand names “Microtitanium Dioxide MT500B” or “Microtitanium Dioxide MT600B”, by Degussa under the brand name “P 25”, by Wacker under the brand name “Transparent Titanium Oxide PW”, by Miyoshi Kasei under the brand name “UFTR”, by Tomen under the brand name “ITS”, and by Tioxide under the brand name “Tioveil AQ”.

Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:

those marketed under the brand name “Z-cote” by Sunsmart;

those marketed under the brand name “Nanox” by Elementis and

those marketed under the brand name “Nanogard WCD 2025” by Nanophase Technologies.

Coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:

those marketed under the brand name “Oxide Zinc CS-5” by Toshiba (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane);

those marketed under the brand name “Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN” by Nanophase Technologies (in 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN alkyl benzoate, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ );

those marketed under the brand name “Daitopersion Zn-30” and “Daitopersion Zn-50” by Daito (dispersions in oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane/cyclopolymethylsiloxane comprising 30% or 50% of zinc nanooxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane);

those marketed under the brand name “NFD Ultrafine ZnO” by Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and a perfluoroalkylethyl copolymer dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane);

those marketed under the brand name “SPD-Z1” by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with a silicone-grafted acrylic polymer dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane);

those marketed under the brand name “Escalol Z100” by ISP (alumina-treated ZnO dispersed in an ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate/PVP-hexadecene/methicone copolymer mixture);

those marketed under the brand name “Fuji ZnO-SMS-10” by Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); and those marketed under the brand name “Nanox Gel TN” by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate with polycondensate of hydroxystearic acid).

Uncoated cerium oxide pigments are marketed, for example, under the brand name “Colloidal Cerium Oxide” by Rhone-Poulenc.

Uncoated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the brand names “Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE 45B)”, “Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ”, “Nanogard FE 45R AQ” and “Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R)”, or by Mitsubishi under the brand name “TY-220”.

Coated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the brands “Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)”, “Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)”, “Nanogard FE 45 BL 345” and “Nanogard FE 45 BL” or by BASF under the brand “Transparent iron oxide”.

Also exemplified are mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including a mixture of equal weights of silica-coated titanium dioxide and silica-coated cerium dioxide marketed by Ikeda under the brand name “Sunveil A”, as well as a mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone, such as the product “M 261” marketed by Kemira, or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol, such as the product “M 211” marketed by Kemira.

Coated inorganic UV filters are preferable because the UV filtering effects of the inorganic UV filters can be enhanced. In addition, the coating(s) can help to uniformly or homogeneously disperse the UV filters in the composition according to the present invention.

(Organic UV filter)

The UV filter (d) can be selected from organic UV filters. If two or more organic UV filters are used, they can be the same or different.

The organic UV filter may be hydrophobic or water-insoluble. The organic UV filter may function as an oily ingredient. Therefore, the organic UV filter may form discontinuous or internal phases of the composition according to the present invention, if the composition according to the present invention is in the form of, for example, an O/W emulsion.

The organic UV filter can be active in the UV-A and/or UV-B region. The organic UV filter can be lipophilic or oil-soluble.

The organic UV filter can be solid or liquid. The terms “solid” and “liquid” mean a substance without fluidity and a substance with fluidity, respectively, at 25 °C under 1 atm.

The organic UV filter may be selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; salicylic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screening polymers and screening silicones; α-alkylstyrene-derived dimers; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds; guaiazulene and its derivatives; rutin and its derivatives and mixtures thereof.

Examples of organic UV filter(s) include those listed below under their INCI names and their mixtures.

- Anthranilic compounds: Menthyl anthranilate, marketed under the brand name “Neo Heliopan MA” by Haarmann and Reimer.

- Dibenzoylmethane compounds: Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, marketed in particular under the brand name “Parsol 1789” by Hoffmann-La Roche and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.

- Cinnamic compounds: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, marketed in particular under the brand name “Parsol MCX” by Hoffmann-La Roche; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxy methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate, marketed under the brand name “Neo Heliopan E 1000” by Haarmann and Reimer; cinoxate (2-ethoxyethyl-4-methoxycinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.

- Salicylic compounds: Homosalate (homomenthyl salicylate), marketed under the brand name “Eusolex HMS” by Rona/EM Industries; ethylhexyl salicylate, marketed under the brand name “Neo Heliopan OS” by Haarmann and Reimer; glycol salicylate; butyloctyl salicylate; phenyl salicylate; dipropylene glycol salicylate, marketed under the brand name “Dipsal” by Scher; and TEA salicylate, marketed under the brand name “Neo Heliopan TS” by Haarmann and Reimer.

- Camphor compounds, in particular benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3-benzylidenecamphor, manufactured under the brand name “Mexoryl SD” by Chimex; 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor, marketed under the brand name “Eusolex 6300” by Merck; benzylidenecamphor sulfonic acid, manufactured under the brand name “Mexoryl SL” by Chimex; camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, manufactured under the brand name “Mexoryl SO” by Chimex and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidenecamphor, manufactured under the brand name “Mexoryl SW” by Chimex.

- Benzophenone Compounds: Benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the brand name “Uvinul 400” by BASF; Benzophenone-2 (tetrahydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the brand name “Uvinul D50” by BASF; Benzophenone-3 (2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone, marketed under the brand name “Uvinul M40” by BASF; Benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethoxybenzophonene sulfonic acid), marketed under the brand name “Uvinul MS40” by BASF; Benzophenone-5 (hydroxymethoxybenzophenone sodium sulfonate); Benzophenone-6 (dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenone), marketed under the brand name “Helisorb 11” by Norquay; benzophenone-8, marketed under the brand name “Spectra-Sorb UV-24” by American Cyanamid; benzophenone-9 (Disodium dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenonedisulfonate), marketed under the brand name “Uvinul DS-49” by BASF; benzophenone-12, and n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate (UVINULA+ by BASF).

- β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds: Octocrylene, marketed in particular under the brand name “Uvinul N539” by BASF and Etocrylene, marketed in particular under the brand name “Uvinul N35” by BASF.

- Triazine compounds: Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, marketed under the brand name “Uvasorb HEB” by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine marketed under the brand name “TINOSORB S” by CIBA GEIGY, and ethylhexyl triazone marketed under the brand name “UVINUL T150” by BASF.

- Benzotriazole compounds, in particular phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear and those described in USP 5240975.

- Benzalmalonate compounds: Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15, marketed under the brand name “Sol SLX” by Hoffmann-LaRoche.

- Benzimidazole compounds, in particular phenylbenzimidazole derivatives.

- Imidazoline compounds: Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate,

- Bis-benzoazolyl compounds: Derivatives as described in EP-669,323 and US Patent No. 2,463,264.

- Para-aminobenzoic acid compounds: PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, marketed in particular under the brand name “Escalol 507” by ISP, glyceryl PABA and PEG-25 PABA, marketed under the brand name “Uvinul P25” by BASF.

- methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, such as 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazole-2-yl)-4-methyl-phenol] marketed in solid form under the trademark "Mixxim BB/200" by Fairmount Chemical, 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazole-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol] marketed in micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trademark "Tinosorb M" by BASF or under the trademark "Mixxim BB/100" by Fairmount Chemical, and derivatives as described in U.S. Patent No. 5,237,071 and 5,166,355, GB-2,303,549, DE-197,26,184 and EP-893,119 and

Drometrizole trisiloxane, marketed under the brand name “Silatrizole” by Rhodia Chimie or “Mexoryl XL” by L'Oréal, as shown below.

- Benzoxazole compounds: 2,4-bis[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine, marketed under the brand name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V.

- screening polymers and screening silicones: the silicones described in WO 93/04665.

- dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene: the dimers described in DE-19855649.

- 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds: 1,1-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.

It is preferable that the organic UV filter is chosen from the group consisting of:

butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, 1,1'-(1,4-piperizinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, ethylhexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{1,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyloxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(di-phenyl)-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(tert-phenyl)-triazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, polysilicone-15, dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, 1,1-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, 2,4-bis[5-1 (dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine, benzylkonium camphor methosulfate and mixtures thereof.

It is preferable that the organic UV filter is selected from the group consisting of butyl methoxydimenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, homosalate and a mixture thereof.

It is preferable that the UV filter (d) is chosen from organic UV filters, and even better chosen from the group consisting of butyl methoxydimenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, homosalate and a mixture thereof.

(Water)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) water.

(e) Water, if present, may form an aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.

If the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O/W emulsion, (e) the water, if present, in the composition according to the present invention can form a continuous aqueous phase in the O/W emulsion.

The amount (e) of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of water (e) in the composition according to the present invention may be 70% by weight or less, preferably 65% by weight or less and more preferably 60% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of water (e) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 20% to 70% by weight, preferably from 30% to 65% by weight and, more preferably, from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Optional ingredient)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the above-mentioned ingredients, one or more optional ingredients generally used in cosmetics, in particular hydrophilic thickeners, derived, for example, from synthetic polymers, volatile or non-volatile organic solvents other than hydrocarbon oil (c); anionic polymers; cationic polymers; amphoteric polymers; non-ionic polymers; silicones and silicone derivatives; natural extracts of animal or plant origin and the like, within a range which does not hinder the effects of the present invention.

The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 40% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 30% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Preparation]

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

The method and means for mixing the above-mentioned essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used for mixing the above-mentioned essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[Shape]

The form of the composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and can take various forms such as an emulsion.

It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an emulsion. Even more preferable that the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O/W emulsion, which comprises fatty phases dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The dispersed fatty phases may be oil droplets in the aqueous phase.

The O/W architecture or structure, which consists of fatty phases dispersed in an aqueous phase, has an external aqueous phase, and therefore, the composition according to the present disclosure having the O/W architecture or structure, this can provide a pleasant sensation during use due to the immediate feeling of freshness that the aqueous phase can provide.

[Process and usage]

It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic or dermatological composition and, more preferably, a cosmetic composition and, more preferably, a cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance such as the skin.

The composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, for treating a keratin substance such as the skin, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and/or scalp, by being applied to the keratin substance.

Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating a keratin substance such as the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin substance.

The present invention also relates to a use of the composition according to the present invention as a cosmetic product or in a cosmetic product such as care and makeup products, for the skin of the body and/or face and/or mucous membranes and/or scalp.

In other words, the composition according to the present invention can be used, as such, as a cosmetic product. Alternatively, the composition according to the present invention can be used as an element of a cosmetic product. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be added to or combined with any other element to form a cosmetic product.

The care product may be a lotion, especially a milky lotion, a cream, and the like. The makeup product may be a foundation, a lipstick, a lip gloss, an eye shadow, and the like.

Another aspect of the present invention relates to a use of (c) at least one hydrocarbon oil

in a composition comprising:

(a) at least one gemini surfactant and

(b) at least one lipophilic thickener

in order to stabilize the composition.

Another aspect of the present invention also relates to a use of (c) at least one hydrocarbon oil.

in a composition comprising:

(a) at least one gemini surfactant;

(b) at least one lipophilic thickener:

(d) at least one UV filter, preferably at least one organic UV filter and

(e) water;

in which

the composition comprises a continuous aqueous phase comprising (e) water and dispersed fatty phases comprising (c) the UV filter,

in order to reduce the size of the fatty phase.

The above explanations regarding ingredients (a) to (e) for the composition according to the present invention may be applied to those for the above use according to the present invention. The explanations regarding the preparation and forms of the composition according to the present invention may also be applied to those of the composition described in the above use.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail with the aid of examples which should not, however, be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

Examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-8

The following compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8 shown in Table 1 were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1 as follows.

(1) mix the ingredients of phase A1 at 60-65°C to form a uniform mixture of phase A1;

(2) add the ingredients of phase A2 to the uniform mixture of phase A1 at 60-65°C, then mix with a homogenizer at 2000 rpm for 5 minutes at 60-65°C to form a uniform mixture of phases A1 and A2;

(3) add the ingredients of phase A3 to the uniform mixture of phases A1 and A2, then mix using a homogenizer at 2000 rpm for 5 minutes at 60-65°C to form an aqueous phase;

(4) mix the ingredients of phase B1 separately at 75-80°C to form a fat phase;

(5) mix the aqueous and oily phases at 60-65°C with a homogenizer at 4000 rpm for 10 minutes to obtain a uniform mixture;

(6) cooling the uniform mixture of phases A1, A2, A3 and B1 to approximately 28°C and

(7) Add the ingredients of phases C and D to the uniform mixture of phases A1, A2, A3 and B1 at approximately 28°C, then mix with a homogenizer at 3,000 rpm for 5 minutes.

The compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-8 were in the form of an O/W emulsion.

The numerical values of the component quantities given in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as active raw materials.

Ingredients Ex.
Comp. 1 Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex.
Comp. 2 Ex.
Comp. 3 Ex.
Comp. 4 Ex.
Comp. 5 Ex.
Comp. 6 Ex.
Comp. 7 Ex.
Comp. 8 A1 Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Glycerin 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Caprylyl Glycol 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 B Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Ethylhexyl salicylate 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Octocrylene 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 Homosalate 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 B1 C13-16 isoalkane - 5 - - - - - - - - - C15-19 alkane - - 5 - - - - - - - - Isohexadecane - - - 5 - - - - - - - Dicaprylyl carbonate - - - - 5 - - - - - - Dicaprylyl ether - - - - - 5 - - - - - Diisopropyl sebacate - - - - - - 5 - - - - C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate - - - - - - - 5 - - - Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate - - - - - - - - 5 - - Isononyl isononanoate - - - - - - - - - 5 - Isocetyl stearate - - - - - - - - - - 5 (following) (following) B1 Poly(C10-30 alkyl acrylate) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 C Silica 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Titanium oxide 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 D Ethanol 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Size of largest droplet Very bad Good Good Good Bad Bad Bad Very bad Very bad Very bad Very bad

[Assessment]

(Size of the largest droplet)

Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-8 was observed under microscopy (Olympus BX51-P polarizing microscope) to measure the largest droplet size (fatty phases) just after preparation of the compositions at about 28 °C. The size of the largest observable droplet was measured using image analysis software. The largest droplet size was classified according to the following criteria.

Good: less than 5nm

Bad: 20 nm or less

Very bad: more than 100 nm

The results of the above categorization are presented in Table 1.

(Summary)

The compositions according to Examples 1-3 included very fine droplets of the fatty phases. It is difficult for the fine droplets to aggregate to cause phase separation. Therefore, the compositions according to Examples 1-3 are stable.

The compositions according to Comparative Examples 1-8 included larger droplets of the fatty phases. It is relatively easy for the larger droplets to aggregate to cause phase separation. Therefore, the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1-8 are less stable than the compositions according to Examples 1-3.

Claims (10)

Composition, preferably cosmetic composition and, even better, cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising:
(a) at least one gemini surfactant;
(b) at least one lipophilic thickener and
(c) at least one hydrocarbon oil. Composition according to claim 1, in which the (a) gemini surfactant is selected from the compounds represented by the following formula (III):
(III)
in which
Y' independently denotes a carboxylic acid group or an alkali salt of a carboxylic acid group such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group,
j1, k1, j2 and k2 denote integers such that (j1, k1, j2, k2) = any one of (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) and (0, 2, 0, 2) and
l denotes an integer from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14 and, more preferably, from 10 to 12. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) gemini surfactant is selected from the group consisting of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine and sodium distearoylglutamide lysine and a mixture thereof. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, in which (b) the lipophilic thickener is selected from lipophilic organic thickeners, preferably lipophilic organic polymers, more preferably lipophilic organic semi-crystalline polymers, and even more preferably polymers of at least one ester of (meth)acrylic acid and C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ aliphatic alcohol. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein (c) the hydrocarbon oil is selected from volatile and non-volatile, aliphatic and saturated hydrocarbons, preferably volatile and non-volatile C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkanes and, more preferably, volatile C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkanes. A composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the weight ratio of the amount of (c) hydrocarbon oil/the amount of (b) lipophilic polymer is from 7 to 13, preferably from 8 to 12 and more preferably from 9 to 11. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition further comprises (d) at least one UV filter, preferably selected from organic UV filters, and more preferably selected from the group consisting of butyl methoxydimenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, homosalate, and a mixture thereof. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition further comprises (e) water. Composition according to claim 8, in which the composition is in the form of an O/W emulsion. Cosmetic process for treating a keratin substance, preferably such as the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the keratin substance.