FR3149776A1 - Anhydrous composition comprising a combination of polyglycerols - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition for care and/or makeup of the skin and/or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600 g/mol, - a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000 g/mol, - and optionally in addition a third cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first and the second, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 1000 g/mol, it being understood that the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the second cosmetic ingredient is at least 100 g/mol, or even at least 200 g/mol, higher than the average molecular weight of polyglycerols in the first cosmetic ingredient.

Description

Anhydrous composition comprising a combination of polyglycerols FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular to anhydrous compositions for care and/or makeup of the skin and/or lips comprising a combination of polyglycerols.

STATE OF THE ART

Products on the market with a lip plumping effect use active ingredients with a vasodilatory action, such as pepper, chilli, mint or menthol extracts, cinnamon. At the same time, products with a smoothing or wrinkle-filling effect generally use collagen or hyaluronic acid, or active ingredients that stimulate their production, such as peptides, for example Palmitoyl tri-peptide 1. However, these active ingredients alone do not provide a lasting effect.

Furthermore, the use of film-forming polymers with a tightening effect is known for an immediate anti-wrinkle smoothing effect. However, the effectiveness of these polymers is also limited, either by their durability (the polymer film cracks) and the lack of comfort, or by a smoothing effect that is not very effective (comfort paradox / tightening effect not achieved). On the other hand, to date, the smoothing effect provided by tightening polymers is insufficient compared to women's current expectations and is not sustainable at sensorially acceptable doses.

There is therefore still a need to develop alternatives to these compounds for an immediate and lasting volumizing and/or smoothing result for the skin and/or lips. The Applicant has demonstrated that the use of at least two cosmetic ingredients comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, said cosmetic ingredients having average molecular weights distinct from each other of at least 100 g/mol, or even at least 200 g/mol, in an anhydrous composition, makes it possible to meet this need. This combination of polyglycerols having average molecular weights distinct from each other of at least 100 g/mol, or even at least 200 g/mol, will have a dual effect: a smoothing effect on the surface and a volumizing effect in depth. Indeed, the higher molecular weight polyglycerols will provide an immediate smoothing effect and the lower molecular weight polyglycerols will penetrate the first layers of the lips and skin to provide volume and substance, thus providing a volumizing effect to the lips and filling in the hollow areas of the face (e.g. temples, cheeks, under the eyes) and/or wrinkles “from the inside”, effectively and lastingly.

A first object of the invention is therefore an anhydrous cosmetic composition for care and/or makeup of the skin and/or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

- a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600g/mol,

- a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000 g/mol,

- and optionally in addition a third cosmetic ingredient, distinct from the first and the second, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 1000 g/mol,

it being understood that the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the second cosmetic ingredient is at least 100g/mol higher, or even at least 200g/mol higher than the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient.

Another subject matter relates to a cosmetic process comprising the application to the skin and/or lips of a composition as defined according to the invention, in particular for plumping up the lips, smoothing the skin and/or lips, and/or restoring the volumes of the face and/or lips, and/or reducing and/or filling in hollow areas of the face and/or wrinkles. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention, applied to the lips, provides a plumping effect (also referred to as a ‘plump’ effect) to the lips, with a lasting effect.

According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention, applied to the skin of the face and/or neck, provides a filling effect on the hollow areas of the face (e.g. temples, cheeks, under the eyes), with a lasting effect.

The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least:

- a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600 g/mol, and

- a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000 g/mol,

as an active combination in an anhydrous composition for plumping the lips and/or smoothing the skin, restoring the volumes of the face and/or lips, and/or reducing and/or filling in hollow areas of the face and/or wrinkles.

The detailed description of the invention below describes the embodiments and compositions intended for the implementation of the cosmetic process according to the invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The present invention therefore relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition for care and/or makeup of the skin and/or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

- a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600g/mol,

- a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000 g/mol,

- and optionally in addition a third cosmetic ingredient, distinct from the first and the second, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 1000 g/mol,

it being understood that the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the second cosmetic ingredient is at least 100g/mol higher, or even at least 200g/mol higher than the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient.

By "cosmetic composition" is meant any composition for cosmetic purposes, i.e. aesthetic, which may be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratin materials, in particular human skin and/or lips. By skin is meant the skin of the face and/or neck and the skin of the body.

By "anhydrous" is meant in particular that water is preferably not deliberately added to the compositions but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the compositions. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of water, in particular less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, relative to the total weight of said composition.

By "physiologically acceptable medium" we mean any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratin materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and/or allergic response.

The anhydrous composition of the invention may be a fluid to liquid composition or a solid to pasty composition.

By ‘fluid to liquid’ according to the invention is meant a composition which flows under its own weight at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (1 atmosphere).

By ‘paste to solid’ according to the invention, we mean a composition which is neither fluid nor liquid according to the preceding definition.

Association of polyglycerols

The polyglycerols comprising from 3 to 10 glycerol units constituting the cosmetic ingredients based on polyglycerols which can be used according to the invention are in particular the following compounds:

POLYGLYCEROL-3 (240.25 g/mol) – CAS 56090-54-1,

POLYGLYCEROL -4 (314.33 g/mol) – CAS 56491-53-3,

POLYGLYCEROL -5 (380g/mol),

POLYGLYCEROL -6 (462.5 g/mol) – CAS 36675-34-0, and

POLYGLYCEROL -10 (758.8 g/mol) - CAS 9041-07-0.

The composition of the invention comprises at least two cosmetic ingredients each comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units and optionally an aqueous solvent, in particular water. The aqueous solvent, when present, is generally present in a content of less than or equal to 20% by weight, or even less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the cosmetic ingredient, such that the final composition comprises less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, in accordance with the definition of anhydrous composition cited above.

According to a particular method, each cosmetic ingredient based on polyglycerols is composed essentially or even exclusively of one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units.

By “consisting essentially or exclusively of” is meant that the polyglycerol-based cosmetic ingredient comprises at least 95%, or better still 98%, or even better still 99%, or even comprises 100% by weight of polyglycerols.

According to another particular embodiment, the cosmetic ingredient consists of one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units and a hydrophilic solvent, preferably water. The polyglycerol content in such a cosmetic ingredient comprising a hydrophilic solvent (e.g. water) will generally range from 80 to 90%, in particular 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic ingredient. The INCI name of such an ingredient will be: Polyglycerin-x and aAqua (water) with x ranging from 3 to 10.

In the case where the cosmetic ingredients based on polyglycerols used according to the invention are mixtures of polyglycerols of different molecular weights, the term ‘average molecular weight’ of said cosmetic ingredient means the average of the molecular weights of said polyglycerols taking into account their respective proportions in said ingredient, the value of this average molecular weight determining the corresponding INCI name, as explained below.

For example, the cosmetic ingredient marketed by Sakamoto under the name PGL-S comprises polyglycerol-3 (majority), polyglycerol-4 and polyglycerol-5, and the average molecular weight of the molecular weights of the polyglycerols constituting this cosmetic ingredient is close to the molecular weight of polyglycerol-3. For this reason, the INCI name of this cosmetic ingredient consisting of a mixture of polyglycerols (polyglycerol-3, polyglycerol-4 and polyglycerol-5), is POLYGLYCERIN-3.

The expression “cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising POLYGLYCERIN-x with x ranging from 3 to 10” therefore covers according to the invention a) a cosmetic ingredient with INCI name POLYGLYCERIN-x (without solvent) and b) a cosmetic ingredient with INCI name POLYGLYCERIN-x and aqua (water) (with solvent), in the case the polyglycerol(s) are solubilized in a hydrophilic solvent, preferably water.

Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least two cosmetic ingredients consisting of one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units and optionally a hydrophilic solvent, with distinct INCI names, chosen from the group consisting of the INCI names comprising polyglycerin-3, polyglycerin-4, polyglycerin-6, polyglycerin-10, polyglycerin-6 and water, or polyglycerin-10 and water.

Advantageously, according to the invention, at least two cosmetic ingredients consisting of one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units will be used, said ingredients having average molecular weights distinct from each other of at least 100 g/mol, or even at least 200 g/mol. The combined use of two cosmetic ingredients consisting essentially of one or more polyglycerols and having average molecular weights distinct from each other of at least 100 g/mol, or even at least 200 g/mol makes it possible to have prolonged penetration kinetics over time in the superficial layers of the skin and/or lips, for an immediate and long-lasting effect (in particular plumping and/or smoothing).

According to a preferred embodiment, the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the second cosmetic ingredient is at least 100 g/mol, or even at least 200 g/mol, higher than the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient.

Thus, the anhydrous cosmetic composition for care and/or makeup of the skin and/or lips comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

- a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600g/mol, preferably from 200 to 500g/mol,

- a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000g/mol, preferably from 400 to 800g/mol,

- and optionally in addition a third cosmetic ingredient, distinct from the first and the second, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 1000 g/mol,

it being understood that the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the second cosmetic ingredient is at least 100g/mol higher, or even at least 200g/mol higher than the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient.

According to a particular embodiment, the anhydrous composition of the invention comprises:

- a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, and whose INCI name includes polyglycerin-3, or polyglycerin-4, or polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-10,

- a second cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, and whose INCI name includes polyglycerin-4, or polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-10, distinct from the INCI name of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient,

- and optionally in addition a third cosmetic ingredient, distinct from the first and second ingredients, and comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, and whose INCI name includes polyglycerin-3, or polyglycerin-4, or polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-10.

For example, the anhydrous composition of the invention comprises at least one first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3 and one or more other cosmetic ingredients with INCI names comprising polyglycerin-4, or polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-6 and water, or polyglycerin-10 or polyglycerin-10 and water.

According to another example, the anhydrous composition of the invention comprises at least one first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-6 and water and one or more other cosmetic ingredients with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3, or polyglycerin-4, or polyglycerin-10 or polyglycerin-10 and water.

According to a particular embodiment, the anhydrous composition of the invention comprises:

- a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6, or

- a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-10, or

- a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6 and a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-10, or

- a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin, a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6 and a third cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-10.

Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment, the anhydrous composition of the invention will comprise a cosmetic ingredient with the INCI name polyglycerin-3 and a cosmetic ingredient with the INCI name polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-6 and water.

According to another particular and preferred embodiment, the anhydrous composition of the invention will comprise a cosmetic ingredient with the INCI name polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-6 (and) water and a cosmetic ingredient with the INCI name polyglycerin-10 or polyglycerin-10 (and) water.

According to another particular and preferred embodiment, the anhydrous composition of the invention will comprise a cosmetic ingredient with INCI name polyglycerin-3 and a cosmetic ingredient with INCI name polyglycerin-10 or polyglycerin-10 (and) water.

According to another particular and preferred embodiment, the anhydrous composition of the invention will comprise a cosmetic ingredient with INCI name polyglycerin-3, a cosmetic ingredient with INCI name polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-6 (and) water and a cosmetic ingredient with INCI name polyglycerin-10 or polyglycerin-10 (and) water.

Other associations comprising at least two cosmetic ingredients with INCI names can be produced within the framework of the anhydrous compositions of the invention as illustrated in the following table 1 which describes two-by-two associations (INCI name of each of the two cosmetic ingredients, symbolized by PG3 for Polyglycerin-3, PG4 for Polyglycerin-4, PG6 for Polyglycerin-6, PG10 for Polyglycerin-10):

Ingredient #2 (INCI name) PG3 PG4 PG6 PG10 Ingredient #1 (INCI name) PG3 - + ++ ++ PG4 + - + ++ PG6 ++ + - ++ PG10 ++ ++ ++ -

- : association not preferred within the framework of the invention because the difference between the average molecular weights of the polyglycerols between the two cosmetic ingredients is less than 100g/mol.

+: association according to the invention

++: preferred association according to the invention

Other triple combinations falling within the scope of the anhydrous compositions of the invention are easily deducible from the double combinations described in Table 1 above, with the addition of a third cosmetic ingredient, distinct from the first and second ingredients, and comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, and whose INCI name includes polyglycerin-3 (PG3), polyglycerin-4 (PG4), polyglycerin-6 (PG6) or polyglycerin-10 (PG10).

• PGL-S de nom INCI POLYGLYCERIN-3
• POLYGLYCERIN 310 de nom INCI POLYGLYCERIN-4
• POLYGLYCERIN-500 MB de nom INCI POLYGLYCERIN-6 and AQUA (WATER)
• POLYGLYCERIN-750 MB de nom INCI POLYGLYCERIN-10 and AQUA (WATER)

As cosmetic ingredients based on polyglycerols which can be used in the anhydrous compositions according to the invention, we can cite in particular the references marketed by the company SAKAMOTO:

• PGL-S with INCI name POLYGLYCERIN-3
• POLYGLYCERIN 310 with INCI name POLYGLYCERIN-4
• POLYGLYCERIN-500 MB INCI name POLYGLYCERIN-6 and AQUA (WATER)
• POLYGLYCERIN-750 MB INCI name POLYGLYCERIN-10 and AQUA (WATER)

• Pure Vegetal de nom INCI Polyglycerin-3
• Pure Vegetal de nom INCI Polyglycerin-4
• Pure Vegetal de nom INCI Polyglycerin-6
• Pure Vegetal de nom INCI Polyglycerin-10

We can also cite the references marketed by the SPIGA company:

• Pure Vegetal with INCI name Polyglycerin-3
• Pure Vegetal with INCI name Polyglycerin-4
• Pure Vegetal with INCI name Polyglycerin-6
• Pure Vegetal with INCI name Polyglycerin-10

The total content of polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units in the composition of the invention will range in particular from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In an anhydrous composition liquid according to the invention, the total content of polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units will range in particular from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2 to 12% by weight, or even from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In an anhydrous composition solid according to the invention, the total content of polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units will range in particular from 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 8 to 18% by weight, or even from 10 to 15% relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular advantageous embodiment, the cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, of the highest molecular weight (corresponding to the ^2nd cosmetic ingredient described above), will be in the composition in a content higher than the cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, of lower molecular weight (corresponding to the ^1st cosmetic ingredient described above), to optimize the smoothing effect and maintain the volumizing effect over time.

Fat phase

The composition of the invention comprises a fatty phase.

The “fatty phase” of the composition comprises in particular oils and one or more fatty phase gelling agents and/or structuring agents chosen from lipophilic gelling agents, pasty fatty substances, waxes and their mixtures.

Oils

By "oil" is meant a fatty substance, not soluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure. The oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and their mixtures.

According to the invention, the term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

According to the invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

As silicone oils, mention may be made in particular of non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and polydimethylsiloxanes comprising at least one _C2-24 alkyl or alkoxy group, pendant and/or at the end of the silicone chain.

Preferably, hydrocarbon oils will be used.

Thus, the oily phase of the composition will generally comprise at least non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, chosen from hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, C ₁₀ -C ₄₀ synthetic ethers, C ₁₀ -C ₄₀ synthetic esters, C ₁₂ -C ₂₆ fatty alcohols, C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ higher fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition may comprise oils chosen from polar oils, non-polar oils and their mixtures. The person skilled in the art will know how to choose the nature and quantity of each of the oils in order to have a stable composition with good cosmetic properties.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition will comprise at least one non-polar hydrocarbon oil.

Among the non-polar hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oil or its derivatives, squalane, isoeicosane, polybutylenes, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one apolar oil chosen from polybutylenes, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, more preferably hydrogenated polydecenes.

According to another particular embodiment, the composition will comprise at least one polar hydrocarbon oil, in particular an ester oil.

Among the “ester oils” (polar), we can notably cite:

- hydroxylated esters , preferably having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, propyl gallate; glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

- fatty acid esters, in particular with 4 to 22 carbon atoms,

- synthetic esters such as oils of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R ₁ +R ₂ is ≥16, such as for example isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyl-decyl, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethyl-hexyl succinate;

- linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70;

- esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms;

- esters of fatty alcohols or branched C24-C28 fatty acids;

- polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of hydroxylated carboxylic acid(s) by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, optionally unsaturated;

and their mixtures.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more ester oils chosen from hydroxylated esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, fatty acid esters of 4 to 22 carbon atoms, synthetic esters, and mixtures thereof.

Total oil(s) content in the composition of the invention will generally range from 20 to 70% by weight, in particular from 30 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, whether the composition of the invention is solid or fluid.

Lipophilic gelling agents

The composition of the invention may include a lipophilic gelling agent.

If it is a fluid to liquid composition, it will generally include at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

If it is a pasty or solid composition, it may include a lipophilic gelling agent.

By “lipophilic gelling agent” we mean a compound capable of gelling the oily or fatty phase of a composition.

As lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made in particular of mineral lipophilic gelling agents, polymeric or non-polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents, and their mixtures.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer" means a compound having at least 2 repeating units, preferably at least 3 repeating units and better still 10 repeating units.

As mineral lipophilic gelling agents, we can cite in particular clays which may be modified such as modified hectorites (e.g.: bentonites, etc.), pyrogenic silica which may be hydrophobically treated on the surface (e.g.: silica silylate, Silica dimethyl silylate, etc.).

Examples of polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned include polyamide-type lipophilic polycondensates, partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes; “diblock”, “triblock” or “radial” block copolymers of the polystyrene/polyisoprene, polystyrene/polybutadiene, polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-propylene, polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-butylene), butylene/ethylene/styrene triblock copolymer; associative polymers derived from castor oil such as the gelling agents in the EstoGel® range from PolymerExpert.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “polycondensate” means a polymer obtained by polycondensation, namely by chemical reaction between monomers having different functional groups chosen in particular from acid, alcohol and amine functions.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one ester-terminated polyamide and/or one ester-terminated poly(ester-amides).

Mention may in particular be made of a poly(ester-amide) with an ester end obtained by condensation of a _C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid (also called hydrogenated dilinoleic acid) and neopentyl glycol, on ethylenediamine; the remaining acid ends being esterified by stearyl alcohol ( _C18 ). The copolymer thus obtained is a dimer copolymer of ethylenediamine bis-stearyl ethylenediamine dibenzoate / neopentyl glycol / stearyl, having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8. The copolymer with the INCI name POLYAMIDE-8 is for example marketed under the name OLEOCRAFT LP-20 by the company CRODA.

Other organic lipophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned include dextrin and fatty acid esters such as dextrin palmitate or dextrin myristate; _C8 - _C30 fatty acid triesters of mono- or polyglyceryl; branched dextrin esters, in particular dextrin isostearate, in particular UNIFILMA HVY marketed by Chiba Flour Milling Co; sugar esters, in particular sucrose acetate isobutyrate marketed under the name EASTMAN SUSTANE SAIB by EASTMAN, and mixtures thereof.

The total content of lipophilic gelling agent(s) in the composition of the invention, when present, will generally range from 0.5 to 15%, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight (excluding solvents) relative to the total weight of the composition.

Pasty fat body

According to a particular embodiment, in particular when the composition is pasty or solid, the composition of the invention further comprises one or more pasty fatty substances.

The term “pasty fatty substance” means a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising, at a temperature of 25°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

Examples include fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, esters of polyol(s) and of fatty acid dimer diacid, or of one of its esters, hydrogenated castor oil esters, jojoba esters, oligomeric glycerol esters, in particular diglycerol esters, vegetable butters and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the composition will comprise at least jojoba esters.

The total content of pasty fatty substances, when present in the composition of the invention, can range from 0.5 to 30% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Waxes

According to a particular method, in particular when the composition is pasty or solid, the composition will include one or more waxes.

On the other hand, when the composition is liquid or fluid, the composition is advantageously free of wax.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “wax” is intended to denote a compound that is solid at 25°C and that exhibits a reversible solid/liquid state change and a melting point greater than 30°C, preferably greater than 45°C.

Mention may be made of microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes, ozokerite, products comprising a mixture of polyethylene and alcohols containing 20 to 50 carbon atoms, silicone waxes, in particular alkyl dimethicones, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, beeswax, waxes of plant origin such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, jojoba wax, sunflower wax, rice bran wax and mixtures thereof; copolymers of maleic anhydride and alpha-olefin, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the total content of wax(es) when they are present in the composition of the invention will range from 0.5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a pasty to solid composition , the total wax content may range from 5 to 25% by weight, in particular from 8 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a fluid to liquid composition , the total content of wax(es), when present, may range from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Emulsifying surfactants

The fatty phase will generally include one or more lipophilic (low HLB) emulsifying surfactants to stabilize the polyglycerols and any other (polar) glycols and polyols in the fatty phase of the composition.

Lipophilic surfactant is understood to mean a surfactant with a low HLB, generally less than 8 and preferably between 3 and 6. The term HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance), well known to those skilled in the art, designates the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part of the molecules. The HLB value can be determined by the GRIFFIN method defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.

As lipophilic emulsifying surfactants which can be used in the anhydrous composition of the invention, mention may in particular be made of polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, glycerol and fatty acid esters, sorbitan and fatty acid esters, and mixtures thereof.

By 'fatty acid' in the expression polyglycerol esters of fatty acids is meant in particular C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids, in particular C ₁₀ -C ₂₀ .

Examples include citric acid ( _C6 ), capric acid ( _C10 ), lauric acid ( _C12 ), myristic acid ( _C14 ), palmitic acid ( _C16 ), stearic or isostearic acid ( _C18 ), ricinoleic acid ( _C18 ), oleic acid ( _C18 ), linoleic acid ( _C18 ), and mixtures thereof.

Other examples include wax fatty acids, such as beeswax fatty acids.

As ‘polyglycerol and fatty acid esters’ used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of polyglycerol stearates, polyglycerol oleates such as Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, polyglycerol polyricinoleates such as Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, polyglycerol stearates or isostearates such as Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Stearate, and mixtures thereof.

Other examples include beeswax fatty acid esters of polyglycerols such as polyglyceryl-3 beeswax.

• OLIVEM de Aroma Zone, de nom INCI Polyglyceryl- 4 oleate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate,
• NIKKOMULESE de NIKKOL GROUP (Nikko Chemicals), de nom INCI Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate (and) Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate,
• S Face O-401P, Jeechem 100, NIKKOL Tetraglyn 1-OV, Hydriol® PGHO.4, Hydriol® PGO, Hydriol® PGLO.4, Hydriol® PGMO.4, DUROSOFT® PG4-O, ou Protachem™ 100, de nom INCI Polyglyceryl- 4 oleate.

These include products marketed under the following names:

• OLIVEM from Aroma Zone, INCI name Polyglyceryl-4 oleate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate,
• NIKKOMULESE from NIKKOL GROUP (Nikko Chemicals), INCI name Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate (and) Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate,
• S Face O-401P, Jeechem 100, NIKKOL Tetraglyn 1-OV, Hydriol® PGHO.4, Hydriol® PGO, Hydriol® PGLO.4, Hydriol® PGMO.4, DUROSOFT® PG4-O, or Protachem™ 100, INCI name Polyglyceryl-4 oleate.

As ‘fatty acid esters of sorbitan’ which may be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of sorbitan olivate. Mention may be made in particular of OLIVEM 900 MB®.

Examples of ‘phospholipids’ include lecithin.

The total content of lipophilic emulsifying surfactant(s) in the composition of the invention will range in particular from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional beneficial ingredients

The composition of the invention may also advantageously comprise additional agents distinct from the polyglycerols described above and chosen from the group consisting of moisturizing agents, smoothing agents, film-forming or tightening agents, antioxidant agents, vasodilating agents (in particular for the lips), fillers, coloring materials, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, in particular when the anhydrous composition of the invention is in fluid to liquid form, the composition of the invention will comprise one or more polyol(s) distinct from the polyglycerols described above as moisturizing agent, and optionally in addition an additional smoothing agent or film-forming agent.

Polyols distinct from the above-described polyglycerols

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises at least one moisturizing agent, in particular at least one polyol other than the polyglycerols described above.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

A polyol suitable for the invention may be a compound of alkyl type, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions, and more particularly at least four -OH functions.

The separate polyol may be selected from the group consisting of sugars such as trehalose, mannitol, xylitol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof and _C2 - _C8 glycols.

The polyols advantageously suitable for the formulation of an anhydrous composition according to the present invention are C ₂ -C ₈ glycols.

Advantageously, the _C2 - _C8 glycol may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (or glycerin), diglycerol (or diglycerin), and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, in particular in the case of a liquid composition, the anhydrous composition of the invention comprises glycerol.

Thus, according to a particular and preferred mode in particular for compositions in fluid form, the anhydrous composition of the invention will further comprise at least one moisturizing agent, preferably at least one polyol distinct from the polyglycerols described above and chosen from the group consisting of C2-C8 glycols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, diglycerol and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol.

The total content of polyols, other than the polyglycerols described above, when present in the anhydrous composition of the invention will generally range from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The person skilled in the art will adjust this content, depending on the content of the above-described polyglycerols already present in the composition, so that it does not impact the stability of the composition. Thus, there will advantageously be a total polyol content, this time including the content of the above-described polyglycerols, of less than or equal to 30% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention may also comprise one or more additional smoothing or film-forming agents.

Additional smoothing agents

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises an additional smoothing agent. Smoothing agents make the skin and/or lips smoother by reducing relief irregularities (e.g. fine lines and wrinkles).

Examples of ‘smoothing agents’ include smoothing active ingredients such as hyaluronic acids, collagen, peptides such as Palmitoyl tri-peptide 1, and mixtures thereof.

Additional film-forming or tensing agents (liposoluble film-forming polymers)

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises an additional film-forming agent or agent with a skin surface tightening effect, in particular a film-forming polymer.

By "tightening agent" we mean an agent capable of smoothing the skin surface to reduce skin wrinkles, by a mechanical effect linked to the elastic properties of the film formed on the surface of the skin.

The term “film-forming polymer” means a polymer capable of forming a continuous film on a support, from a solution, dispersion or suspension of this film-forming polymer, applied to said support.

The evaporation of the solvent in which it is dispersed allows this film-forming polymer to form a film on the surface of the skin and/or lips and thus prolong the effect provided by the composition on the restoration of the volumes of the face and/or lips, and/or attenuation and/or filling of the hollow areas of the face and/or wrinkles.

The film formed on the skin can also act as a reservoir for molecules dispersed in said film, which will gradually penetrate into the superficial layers of the skin and produce the desired cosmetic effect, for example a moisturizing effect.

These film-forming polymers can be natural or synthetic.

Preferably, fat-soluble polymers will be used.

• les copolymères de la vinylpyrrolidone (VP) et d’alcène comprenant de 2 à 20 atomes de carbone, tels que les copolymères de VP/eicosène, VP/hexadécène, VP/styrène,
• les polyoléfines, hydrogénées ou non hydrogénées, et de préférence les polymères ou copolymères d’alcènes comprenant de 2 à 20 atomes de carbone, tels que les polybutènes, les polyisobutènes, les polydécènes,
• les esters de sucre, en particulier le sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),
• les esters ramifiés de dextrine, tels que l'isostéarate de dextrine,
• les résines végétales, telles que la résine de candelilla, et
• leurs mélanges.

These include:

• copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as copolymers of VP/eicosene, VP/hexadecene, VP/styrene,
• polyolefins, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, and preferably polymers or copolymers of alkenes comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as polybutenes, polyisobutenes, polydecenes,
• sugar esters, especially sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),
• branched dextrin esters, such as dextrin isostearate,
• plant resins, such as candelilla resin, and
• their mixtures.

Note that certain sugar esters such as SAIB are cited as both a lipophilic gelling agent and a film-forming agent due to their dual effect.

The total content of liposoluble film-forming polymer(s), when present in the composition of the invention, will generally range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% (in active material) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional active ingredients with a ‘plump’ effect for the lips

For the compositions of the invention intended for the lips, it will be possible to advantageously use an additional active ingredient with a “plump” (volumizing) effect, such as a vasodilator active ingredient.

Examples include extracts of pepper, chili pepper, mint or menthol, cinnamon, or mixtures thereof.

Charges

By “fillers” is meant platelet-shaped particles, spherical or oblong, colorless or white, of mineral or organic nature, natural or synthetic, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. These fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and/or to confer a mattifying effect. It will be possible to advantageously use “blurring effect” fillers which camouflage the microreliefs of the skin and thus make it possible to attenuate, by optical correction effect, imperfections of relief and/or color, such as wrinkles, fine lines, pores and spots.

The “fillers” are chosen in particular from silicas, celluloses, boron nitride, micas, of natural or synthetic origin, kaolin, calcium carbonate, powders of organic materials of natural origin such as corn, wheat, rice starches, crosslinked or not, and their mixtures.

According to a particular method, silica will be used.

Coloring materials

The anhydrous composition of the invention may also comprise one or more coloring matter(s).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “coloring matter” means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium. The coloring matters are conventionally chosen from pigments (insoluble in oils) and dyes (soluble in oils).

Said coloring materials may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent. According to a particular embodiment, the coloring material(s) are chosen in particular from mineral pigments, organic pigments, pearlescent pigments, dyes, and mixtures thereof.

By “pigments” we mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and/or opacify the resulting deposit.

Among the “mineral pigments” we can cite titanium dioxide, iron oxides, and their mixtures.

Among the “organic dyes and pigments (e.g. lakes)”, we can cite, for example, Blue 1, Yellow 5, Yellow 6, Yellow 10, Yellow 11, Red 4, Red 6, Red 7, Red 9, Red 19, Red 13, Red 17, Red 21, Red 22, Red 27, Red 28, Red 30 and Red 33, Red 34, Red 36, Red 40, Green 3, Orange 4, Violet 2, carmine, Green 5, Orange 10, Green 6, Sudan red, Sudan brown, and quinoline yellow, their salts, such as a sodium or barium salt, or even lakes comprising at least one of said organic pigments, for example those having the name Blue 1 lake (CI 42090); Yellow 5 lake (CI 19140); Yellow 6 lake (CI 15985), Yellow 10 lake (CI 47005), Yellow 11 Lake, Red 6 lake (15850); Red 7 lake (CI 15850); Red 21 lake (CI 45380); Red 22 lake (CI 45380), Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28 lake (CI 45410), Red 30 lake (CI 73360), Red 33 lake (CI 15880), Red 34 lake (CI 15880), Red 40 Lake (CI16035), and/or their salts. “Lakes” are organic pigments comprising at least one organic dye precipitated on an inert support (otherwise known as a “base”).

The “pearlescent pigments” are for example chosen from mica coated with titanium oxide, mica-titanium coated with iron oxide, mica-titanium coated with ferric blue, mica-titanium coated with chromium oxide, or tin oxide; mica-titanium coated with an organic pigment as described above, as well as pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

According to a particular embodiment, the anhydrous cosmetic composition for care and/or makeup of the skin and/or lips according to the invention comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

- a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600g/mol,

- a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000 g/mol,

- optionally in addition a third cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first and the second, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 1000 g/mol,

it being understood that the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the second cosmetic ingredient is at least 100g/mol, or even at least 200g/mol, higher than the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient, one or more oils,

- one or more oils, one or more lipophilic emulsifying surfactants, and

- one or more lipophilic emulsifying surfactants, and

- one or more gelling agents and/or fatty phase structuring agents chosen from lipophilic gelling agents, pasty fatty substances, waxes and their mixtures.

Said composition may also comprise additional agents chosen from the group consisting of moisturizing agents such as polyols other than the polyglycerols described above, smoothing agents, film-forming or tightening agents, vasodilator active ingredients (for the lips), antioxidant agents, fillers, coloring materials, and mixtures thereof.

According to the preferred particular modes, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises:

- a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6, or

- a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-10, or

- a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6 and a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-10, or

- a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3, a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6, and a third cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-10,

- one or more oils, preferably hydrocarbon oils,

- one or more lipophilic emulsifying surfactants, in particular chosen from fatty acid and polyglycerol esters,

- one or more gelling agents and/or fatty phase structuring agents chosen from lipophilic gelling agents, pasty fatty substances, waxes and their mixtures, and

- optionally in addition one or more ingredients chosen from C2-C8 glycols, smoothing agents, film-forming agents, vasodilator active ingredients (in particular for the lips), fillers, coloring matters, and mixtures thereof.

Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises:

- a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6,

- one or more oils, preferably hydrocarbon oils,

- one or more lipophilic emulsifying surfactants, in particular chosen from fatty acid and polyglycerol esters,

- one or more gelling agents and/or fatty phase structuring agents chosen from lipophilic gelling agents, pasty fatty substances, waxes and their mixtures, and

- optionally in addition one or more ingredients chosen from C2-C8 glycols, smoothing agents, film-forming agents, vasodilator active ingredients (in particular for the lips), fillers, coloring matters, and mixtures thereof.

According to another particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises:

- a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6 and a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-10, and

- one or more oils, preferably hydrocarbon oils,

- one or more lipophilic emulsifying surfactants, in particular chosen from fatty acid and polyglycerol esters,

- one or more gelling agents and/or fatty phase structuring agents chosen from lipophilic gelling agents, pasty fatty substances, waxes and their mixtures, and

- optionally in addition one or more ingredients chosen from C2-C8 glycols, smoothing agents, film-forming agents, vasodilator active ingredients (in particular for the lips), fillers, coloring matters, and mixtures thereof.

According to another particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises:

- a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3, a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6 and a third cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-10, and

- one or more oils, preferably hydrocarbon oils,

- one or more lipophilic emulsifying surfactants, in particular chosen from fatty acid and polyglycerol esters,

- one or more gelling agents and/or fatty phase structuring agents chosen from lipophilic gelling agents, pasty fatty substances, waxes and their mixtures, and

- optionally in addition one or more ingredients chosen from C2-C8 glycols, smoothing agents, film-forming agents, vasodilator active ingredients (in particular for the lips), fillers, coloring matters, and mixtures thereof.

Galenic

The cosmetic composition of the invention is an anhydrous composition for the care and/or makeup of keratin materials, in particular of the skin and/or lips, preferably the skin of the face and/or neck, and/or lips.

The composition of the invention may be of a fluid to liquid or pasty to solid texture, as defined above.

According to a particular embodiment, the anhydrous composition is a skin and/or lip care composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the anhydrous composition is a makeup composition for the skin and/or lips.

• un premier ingrédient cosmétique comprenant un ou plusieurs polyglycérols ayant de 3 à 10 unités glycérol, de poids moléculaire moyen allant de 200 à 600g/mol,
• un second ingrédient cosmétique distinct du premier, comprenant un ou plusieurs polyglycérols ayant de 3 à 10 unités glycérol, de poids moléculaire moyen allant de 300 à 1000g/mol,
• une huile de préférence hydrocarbonée, en particulier une huile ester,
• un tensioactif émulsionnant lipophile, en particulier choisi parmi les esters d’acides gras et de polyglycérols,
• un gélifiant lipophile,
• avantageusement en outre un glycol en C2-C8, en particulier du glycérol,
• éventuellement en outre une ou plusieurs matières colorantes.

According to a particular embodiment, the anhydrous composition is in a fluid to liquid form and comprises:

• a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600 g/mol,
• a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000 g/mol,
• a preferably hydrocarbon oil, in particular an ester oil,
• a lipophilic emulsifying surfactant, in particular chosen from fatty acid and polyglycerol esters,
• a lipophilic gelling agent,
• advantageously furthermore a C2-C8 glycol, in particular glycerol,
• possibly in addition one or more coloring materials.

According to a particular embodiment, the fluid composition of the invention is in the form of a gloss, a serum, an oily gel, an oil, a liquid blush, in particular for lip or cheek makeup.

In particular, it will be a gloss or oily gel for the lips.

In another mode, it will be a liquid blush for the cheeks or a fluid foundation.

• un premier ingrédient cosmétique comprenant un ou plusieurs polyglycérols ayant de 3 à 10 unités glycérol, de poids moléculaire moyen allant de 200 à 600g/mol,
• un second ingrédient cosmétique distinct du premier, comprenant un ou plusieurs polyglycérols ayant de 3 à 10 unités glycérol, de poids moléculaire moyen allant de 300 à 1000g/mol,
• une ou plusieurs huiles de préférence hydrocarbonées, en particulier une huile ester,
• un ou plusieurs tensioactifs émulsionnants lipophiles, en particulier choisi parmi les esters d’acides gras et de polyglycérols,
• un ou plusieurs gélifiants et/ou structurants de phase grasse choisi parmi les gélifiants lipophiles, les cires, les corps gras pâteux, et leurs mélanges, et
• éventuellement en outre une ou plusieurs matières colorantes.

According to a particular embodiment, the anhydrous composition of the invention is in pasty to solid form. and includes, in a physiologically acceptable environment:

• a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600 g/mol,
• a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000 g/mol,
• one or more preferably hydrocarbon oils, in particular an ester oil,
• one or more lipophilic emulsifying surfactants, in particular chosen from fatty acid and polyglycerol esters,
• one or more gelling agents and/or fatty phase structuring agents chosen from lipophilic gelling agents, waxes, pasty fatty substances, and mixtures thereof, And
• possibly in addition one or more coloring materials.

According to a particular mode, the solid composition is in the form of a stick, a compact powder, an eye shadow, a blush or blusher, in particular for skin makeup (e.g. eyelids, cheeks), or lips.

In particular, it will be a lip stick or a foundation stick.

In another mode, it will be an eye shadow or a blush.

This will include skin care, particularly anti-aging facial skin care or a skin makeup composition such as a smoothing foundation for facial skin.

According to another embodiment, it may be a lip care product, in particular a smoothing and/or volumizing (plumping) lip care product or a lip makeup composition such as a lipstick with a smoothing and/or volumizing (plumping) effect.

Cosmetic process

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process comprising the application to the skin and/or the lips of an anhydrous composition according to the invention, in particular to plump the lips, smooth the skin, restore the volumes of the face and/or the lips, and/or reduce and/or fill in the hollow areas of the face and/or wrinkles.

Thus, it relates to a cosmetic process for plumping up the lips, smoothing the skin and/or lips, and/or restoring the volumes of the face and/or lips, and/or reducing and/or filling in hollow areas of the face and/or wrinkles, comprising the application to the skin and/or lips of an anhydrous cosmetic care and/or makeup composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

- a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600g/mol,

- a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000 g/mol,

- and optionally in addition a third cosmetic ingredient, distinct from the first and the second, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 1000 g/mol,

it being understood that the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the second cosmetic ingredient is at least 100g/mol higher, or even at least 200g/mol higher than the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient.

Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the invention applied to the skin and/or the lips further comprises:

- one or more oils, preferably hydrocarbon oils,

- one or more lipophilic emulsifying surfactants,

- one or more gelling agents and/or fatty phase structuring agents chosen from lipophilic gelling agents, pasty fatty substances, waxes and their mixtures, and

- optionally in addition one or more ingredients chosen from C2-C8 glycols, smoothing agents, film-forming agents, vasodilator active ingredients (in particular for the lips), fillers, coloring matters, and mixtures thereof.

Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment, the invention relates to a cosmetic process for plumping the lips, smoothing the skin and/or the lips, and/or restoring the volumes of the face and/or the lips, and/or reducing and/or filling in the hollow areas of the face and/or wrinkles, comprising the application to the skin and/or the lips of an anhydrous composition as defined according to the invention.

The detailed description of the invention above describes the embodiments and anhydrous compositions intended for the implementation of the cosmetic process according to the invention.

The anhydrous composition of the invention is applied to healthy skin and/or lips, i.e. not presenting any disorders or disorders that would be related to a pathological state (“non-healthy” subjects, suffering from a pathology). We will speak indifferently of healthy skin and/or lips or skin and/or lips in the remainder of the description.

The anhydrous composition also promotes hydration of the skin and/or lips.

According to a particular embodiment, the anhydrous compositions of the invention will be applied to healthy subjects presenting a loss of volume in the face, in particular in the temples, cheeks and under the eyes.

According to a particular embodiment, the anhydrous compositions of the invention will be applied to healthy subjects with thin lips.

Cosmetic use

The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least:

- a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600 g/mol, and

- a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000 g/mol,

as an active combination in an anhydrous composition for plumping the lips, smoothing the skin, restoring the volumes of the face and/or lips, and/or reducing and/or filling in hollow areas of the face and/or wrinkles.

The invention will be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, the % are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

EXAMPLES

• POLYGLYCERIN-3 commercialisé sous la dénomination PGL-S par SAKAMOTO
• POLYGLYCERIN -4 commercialisé sous la dénomination POLYGLYCERIN 310 par SAKAMOTO

• POLYGLYCERIN -6 commercialisé sous la dénomination POLYGLYCERIN-500 MB par SAKAMOTO
• POLYGLYCERIN -10 commercialisé sous la dénomination POLYGLYCERIN-750 MB par SAKAMOTO.

In the following examples, the ingredients with the following INCI names have been used:

• POLYGLYCERIN-3 marketed under the name PGL-S by SAKAMOTO
• POLYGLYCERIN -4 marketed under the name POLYGLYCERIN 310 by SAKAMOTO

• POLYGLYCERIN -6 marketed under the name POLYGLYCERIN-500 MB by SAKAMOTO
• POLYGLYCERIN -10 marketed under the name POLYGLYCERIN-750 MB by SAKAMOTO.

Example 1: Kinetics of penetration of polyglycerols into the superficial layers of the skin

A preliminary study (unpublished) was carried out on sections of human skin studied by imaging (7T-MALDI-FTICR Mass Spectrometry Imaging (MSI)) and demonstrated the interest of using polyglycerols or mixtures of polyglycerols at the cutaneous level. This study showed in particular by an image capture method, that the speed of penetration of polyglycerols and the depth of penetration at the level of the superficial layers of the skin (epidermis and superficial dermis) are influenced by the molecular weight of these compounds, that is to say the size of the glycerol chain.

In practice, it has been shown that polyglycerol-4 penetrates more quickly but remains in the superficial dermis, compared to polyglycerol-3 which penetrates quickly and reaches the superficial dermis very quickly. Polyglycerol-5 and -6 penetrate less deeply than polyglycerol-3 or polyglycerol-4.

It follows from these data that it is particularly interesting to combine polyglycerols of different molecular weights in cosmetic compositions, in particular of average molecular weights distinct from each other by at least 100 g/mol, or even at least 200 g/mol, to obtain an effect both on the kinetics of skin penetration and for the depth of penetration into the superficial layers of the skin.

These compounds can act at different levels of the superficial layers of the skin and more or less quickly, and produce their effect, in particular a plumping effect on the lips or a moisturizing and/or smoothing effect by swelling or filling the superficial layers of the skin in the hollow areas of the face and/or wrinkles, with a lasting effect thanks to controlled penetration kinetics.

Example 2: Effect of the combination according to the invention in an anhydrous composition, on the plumping effect of the lips

2-1 Anhydrous Liquid Lip Gloss

Ingredients (INCI Name) % by weight Methyl hydrogenated rosinate Qsp 100 Dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate 27.00 Polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate 11.00 Waxes and pastes 10.00 Glycerin 8.00 Jojoba esters 5.60 Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax 3.4 Polyglyceryl-10-decaisostearate 7.00 Polyglycerin-3 (PGL-S MB) 2.25 Polyglycerin-6 (Polyglycerin 500MB) 0.75 Pigments and mother-of-pearl 0.40 Conservatives Qs

• Phase A : Les huiles et gélifiants/structurants de phase grasse (methyl hydrogenated rosinate, Dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, cires/pâteux et Polyglyceryl-10-decaisostearate) sont mélangés au Rayneri équipé d’une défloculeuse dans un bain marie à 90°C ;
• les esters de jojoba et le polyglycéryl-3 beeswax sont fondus (phase A1) et ajoutés à la glycérine et aux polyglycérols (phase A2), préalablement mélangés à la main pendant 20 minutes;
• la phase A1 + A2 est ensuite incorporée dans la phase A et mélangée pendant 30 minutes ;
• les pigments, nacres (phase B) sont mélangés dans une partir du polyglycéryl-2 triisostearate (phase C) puis intégrés, à température ambiante (on retire du bain marie) dans la phase A et mélangés au Rayneri à la défloculeuse 350 tours/min pendant 1 heure ;
• le reste de polyglycéryl-2 triisostearate (D) est ajouté dans ABC ;
• la composition est ensuite mise dans un bain d’eau froide pour refroidir la composition, agitée au Rayneri à la défloculeuse 350 tours/min pendant 30 min, puis l’agitation est arrêtée ; la composition redescendue à 25°C est ensuite conditionnée.

The composition is prepared according to the following protocol:

• Phase A: The oils and gelling agents/structuring agents of the fatty phase (methyl hydrogenated rosinate, Dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, waxes/pastes and Polyglyceryl-10-decaisostearate) are mixed in the Rayneri equipped with a deflocculator in a water bath at 90°C;
• jojoba esters and polyglyceryl-3 beeswax are melted (phase A1) and added to glycerin and polyglycerols (phase A2), previously mixed by hand for 20 minutes;
• phase A1 + A2 is then incorporated into phase A and mixed for 30 minutes;
• the pigments, pearls (phase B) are mixed in a part of the polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (phase C) then integrated, at room temperature (removed from the water bath) in phase A and mixed with the Rayneri at the deflocculator 350 rpm for 1 hour;
• the remainder of polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (D) is added in ABC;
• the composition is then placed in a cold water bath to cool the composition, stirred with the Rayneri at the deflocculator at 350 rpm for 30 min, then the stirring is stopped; the composition, having cooled down to 25°C, is then packaged.

The smoothing and plumping effect of the composition of the invention is evaluated on a panel of 12 volunteers using gloss, according to the fringe projection method: a network of fringes is projected onto the area of skin (lips) to be analyzed. The fringes are deformed proportionally to the relief. The acquisition system consists of a camera and a projection module. The acquisitions allow the software to reconstruct the three-dimensional profile of the area explored. The same area of skin (lips) is compared before and after application of the composition according to the invention.

A significant but weak plumping effect on the lips (particularly the upper lip) was observed after application of the composition of the invention comprising the combination of 2 polyglycerols as defined in the invention.

2-2 Anhydrous Lip Smoothing Stick

The combination of 2 polyglycerols as defined according to the invention has also been formulated in a stick formulation.

Ingredients (INCI Name) % by weight Hydrogenated polydecene Qsp 100 Polyglycerin-3 (PGL-S MB) 7.50 Polyglycerin-6 and water (Polyglycerin 500 MB containing 10% by weight of water) 7.50 Jojoba esters 6.00 Hydrocarbon waxes 14.00 Silica 3.00 Polylglyceryl-4 oleate and Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate 5.00 Sorbitan olivate 3.60 Pigments 8.00 Conservatives Qs

• les cires, pâteux, une partie du polydécène hydrogéné et les tensioactifs émulsionnants (Polylglyceryl-4 oleate et Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate et sorbitan olivate) sont chauffés à 97°C, et agités sous Rayneri à vitesse 100-200 tours/min jusqu’à homogénéisation (phase A1);
• les pigments, nacres et une partie du polydécène hydrogéné (phase A2) sont ajoutés à la phase A1 et le bain marie est mis à 95°C et le mélange est homogénéisé ;
• les polyglycérols (phase B) sont chauffés séparément à 95°C avant de mélanger la phase B avec la phase A ;
• on ajoute ensuite doucement à chaud sous agitation la phase B dans la phase A (A1 + A2) dans un bain marie à 95°C sous Rayneri 700 tours/min pendant 10 min ;
• la composition est ensuite coulée à 95°C dans un bâton de rouge à lèvres et refroidie à température ambiante.

The composition is prepared hot (97°C water bath) according to the following protocol:

• the waxes, pastes, a part of the hydrogenated polydecene and the emulsifying surfactants (Polyglyceryl-4 oleate and Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and sorbitan olivate) are heated to 97°C, and stirred under Rayneri at speed 100-200 rpm until homogenized (phase A1);
• the pigments, pearls and part of the hydrogenated polydecene (phase A2) are added to phase A1 and the water bath is set to 95°C and the mixture is homogenized;
• the polyglycerols (phase B) are heated separately to 95°C before mixing phase B with phase A;
• then add phase B gently while hot, with stirring, to phase A (A1 + A2) in a water bath at 95°C under Rayneri 700 rpm for 10 min;
• The composition is then poured at 95°C into a lipstick stick and cooled to room temperature.

Applied to the lips, this anhydrous stick provides a smoothing effect and a slight plumping effect 2 hours after application (T2h).

Example 3: Formulations

3.1 Anhydrous lip stick

Ingredients (INCI Name) % by weight Hydrogenated polydecene Qsp 100 Polyglycerin-3 (PGL-S MB) 5 Polyglycerin-10 and water (Polyglycerin 750 MB containing 10% water) 10 Jojoba esters 6 Hydrocarbon waxes 14 Silica 3 Polyglyceryl-4 oleate 3 Sorbitan olivate 2 Pigments 8 Conservatives Qs 100

Applied to the lips, this stick provides a volumizing and smoothing effect to the lips.

3.2 Anhydrous Liquid Lip Gloss

Ingredients (INCI Name) % by weight Methyl hydrogenated rosinate Qsp 100 Dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate 27.0 Polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate 11.0 Waxes and pastes 10.0 Glycerin 8.0 Polyglyceryl-10-decaisostearate 7.0 Polyglycerin-3 (PGL-S MB) 1.0 Polyglycerin-10 and water (Polyglycerin 750 MB containing 10% water) 2.0 Pigments and mother-of-pearl 0.4 Conservatives Qs

Applied to the lips, this gloss provides a smoothing and volumizing effect (‘plump’).

3.3 Anhydrous stick foundation

PHASE Ingredients (INCI Name) % by weight HAS Ethylhexyl palmitate Qsp 100 HAS Polyamide-8 25.0 HAS VP/hexadecene copolymer in octyldodecanol 5.0 HAS Sucrose acetate isobutyrate 5.0 HAS Sorbitan sesquioleate 4.0 B Coco-caprylate/caprate 3.0 B Pigments 2.4 C Silica 5.0 D Butylene glycol 5.0 D Glycerin 3.0 D 1,2-hexanediol 2.0 D Polyglycerin-3 (PGL-S MB) 2.0 D Polyglycerin-6 and water (Polyglycerin 500 MB containing 10% water) 2.0 D Polyglycerin-10 and water (Polyglycerin 750 MB containing 10% water) 2.0 D Conservatives qs

The anhydrous stick foundation is prepared according to the following protocol:

1/ Prepare the fatty phase A by heating to 85°C with moderate stirring, until a homogeneous mixture is obtained;

2/ Prepare pigment phase B;

3/Add phase B to phase A, maintaining the temperature at 85°C;

4/ Prepare phase D, by making a simple mixture, with gentle stirring;

5/ Slowly incorporate phase D into the mixture at a temperature at least above 60°C;

6/ Pour the preparation into suitable containers and allow the temperature to gradually drop.

Applied to the skin of the face, this foundation stick provides a smoothing effect and fills in the hollow areas of the face and wrinkles and fine lines. The volumes of the face are restored and the face appears younger.

Claims (11)

Anhydrous cosmetic composition for care and/or makeup of the skin and/or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
- a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600g/mol,
- a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000 g/mol,
- and optionally in addition a third cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first and the second, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 1000 g/mol,
it being understood that the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the second cosmetic ingredient is at least 100g/mol higher, or even at least 200g/mol higher than the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient. Anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises:
- a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, and whose INCI name includes polyglycerin-3, or polyglycerin-4, or polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-10,
- a second cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, and whose INCI name includes polyglycerin-4, or polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-10, distinct from the INCI name of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient,
- and optionally in addition a third cosmetic ingredient, distinct from the first and second ingredients, and comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, and whose INCI name includes polyglycerin-3, or polyglycerin-4, or polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-10. Anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that it comprises:
- a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6, or
- a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-10, or
- a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6 and a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-10, or
- a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3, a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6, and a third cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-10. Anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the total content of polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units ranges from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2 to 15% relative to the total weight of the composition. Anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it is a fluid to liquid composition. Anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it is a pasty to solid composition. Anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it further comprises:
- one or more oils,
- one or more lipophilic emulsifying surfactants, in particular chosen from fatty acid and polyglycerol esters,
- one or more gelling agents and/or fatty phase structuring agents chosen from lipophilic gelling agents, waxes, pasty fatty substances, and mixtures thereof, and
- optionally in addition one or more additional ingredients chosen from the group consisting of moisturizing agents, smoothing agents, film-forming or tightening agents, antioxidant agents, vasodilator active ingredients, fillers, coloring matters, and mixtures thereof. Anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it is a fluid or solid composition for the lips, in particular a plumping or volumizing composition for the lips. Anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it is a fluid or solid composition for the skin, in particular a composition for filling hollow areas of the face and/or filling wrinkles or fine lines. Cosmetic process intended to plump the lips, smooth the skin, restore the volume of the face and/or lips, and/or reduce and/or fill in hollow areas and/or wrinkles comprising the application, to said keratin materials, of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least:
- a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600 g/mol, and
- a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000 g/mol,
- and optionally in addition a third cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first and the second, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 1000 g/mol,
it being understood that the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the second cosmetic ingredient is at least 100g/mol, or even at least 200g/mol, higher than the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient,
as an active combination in an anhydrous composition to plump the skin, smooth the skin, restore the volumes of the face and/or lips, and/or reduce and/or fill in hollow areas of the face and/or wrinkles.