FR3144004A1 - Stable, non-transferring emulsion foundation - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) a Candelilla resin, b) a pullulan, etc.) an emulsifying system comprising one or more esters of polyglycerol and fatty acid, distinct, optionally (poly)hydroxylated.

Description

Stable, non-transfer emulsion foundation FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular to compositions in the form of water-in-oil emulsions, in particular for skin makeup, with a long-lasting effect without transfer.

STATE OF THE ART

The state of the art is known of skin compositions using film-forming polymers for a long-lasting makeup effect on the skin.

“Hold” corresponds to makeup that is still present and satisfactory at the end of the day. Good hold corresponds, for example, to a foundation that does not require touch-ups during the day. In addition, we are looking for makeup compositions with “non-transfer” hold properties, i.e. the composition and in particular the color do not transfer onto fabrics that come into contact with the makeup film applied to the skin (e.g. handkerchief, mask, clothing, etc.).

We are currently looking for compositions that include more ingredients of natural origin, but without compromising on the sensory properties and hold of the makeup.

“Naturally derived ingredients” means ingredients that come from nature but have been physically transformed or have been chemically extracted or treated.

The Applicant has rightly shown that the combined use of a film-forming system of natural origin comprising a Candelilla resin and a pullulan, and an emulsifying system comprising one or more polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, made it possible to obtain a complexion product having a long-lasting effect without transfer, and good sensory properties on application. In particular, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil emulsion providing good glide on application, the deposition of a thin film like a second skin, with a matte or luminous finish, comfortable and very soft.

For this purpose, according to a first aspect of the invention, a cosmetic composition is proposed in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
a) a Candelilla resin,
b) a pullulan, and
(c) an emulsifying system comprising one or more distinct, optionally (poly)hydroxylated, polyglycerol and fatty acid esters.

In particular, it is a makeup product for the skin of the face and/or neck.

Another aspect of the invention is a cosmetic process for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably the skin of the face and/or neck, comprising the application to said keratin material of at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined according to the invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
a) a Candelilla resin,
b) a pullulan, and
(c) an emulsifying system comprising one or more distinct, optionally (poly)hydroxylated, polyglycerol and fatty acid esters.

Film-forming system of natural origin (combination of candelilla resin and pullulan)

The composition of the invention comprises a film-forming system comprising a lipophilic film-forming polymer (candelilla resin) and a hydrophilic film-forming polymer (pullulan).

Candelilla resin (lipophilic film-forming polymer of natural origin)

In the context of the present invention, a candelilla resin ( Euphorbia cerifera) is used, distinct from a candelilla wax.

Resins generally represent 12 to 14% of candelilla wax and are generally composed of polar substances. Resins can be obtained from the wax in the form of an extract. In the description, we will speak indifferently of ‘free’ candelilla resin or candelilla resin, that is to say a resin not trapped in the candelilla wax but obtained from said wax, for example by subjecting a candelilla wax to a fractional extraction with an organic solvent such as ethanol.

According to a particular embodiment, a candelilla resin with the INCI name Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Extract (EU INCI Name: Euphorbia Cerifera Cera Extract) is used, in particular the Candelilla resin marketed under the name Candelilla Resin-E1 or preferably Candelilla Resin-E2 from Japan Natural Products, Inc. This resin of natural origin is obtained by an extraction process from Candelilla wax.

The concentration of Candelilla resin in the present invention will generally range from 0.2 to 3% by weight, especially from 0.5 to 3%, especially from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention will not comprise or will comprise few waxes. In particular, the composition of the invention comprises less than 5% waxes, in particular less than 2% waxes, or even less than 1% waxes, or even is free of waxes.

Pullulan (hydrophilic film-forming polymer of natural origin)

The composition of the invention further comprises a pullulan.

Pullulan is a naturally occurring polysaccharide (sugar polymer) consisting of maltotriose units (a glucose trisaccharide), also known as alpha-1,4-; alpha-1,6-glucan. The three glucose units that make up maltotriose are linked by an alpha-1,4-glycosidic bond, while the maltotrioses are connected to each other by alpha-1,6-glycosidic bonds. Pullulan is produced from starch by the fungus Aureobasidium pullulans.

According to a particular embodiment, the pullulan is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.2% to 3% by weight, in particular from 1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Emulsifying system (polyglycerol and fatty acid ester(s))

The composition of the invention further comprises one or more distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, optionally (poly)hydroxylated.

By ‘fatty acid’ in the expression polyglycerol esters of fatty acids, we mean in particular C6-C30 fatty acids, in particular C10-C20.

Examples include citric acid (C6), capric acid (C10), lauric acid (C12), myristic acid (C14), palmitic acid (C16), stearic or isostearic acid (C18), ricinoleic acid (C18), oleic acid (C18), linoleic acid (C18), and mixtures thereof.

As polyglycerol and fatty acid esters used according to the invention, the following compounds may be cited in particular: Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprate, Polyglyceryl- 3 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-4 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-10 Decalinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Decaoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Decacasterate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicaprate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicocoate, Polyglyceryl-10 Didecanoate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Dilaurate, Polyglycerin-2 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dipalmitate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Heptaoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Heptastearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Hexaoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Hexaoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-5 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-3 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-8 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentalaurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentalinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Pentaoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyrisinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquiisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquioleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquistearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-8 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Tetraisostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Tetraoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Tetraoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Tetrastearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Trioleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Tristearate, Polyglyceryl Tristearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Tristearate, and their mixtures.

According to a particular embodiment, one or more esters of polyglycerol and fatty acid, distinct, in C10-C20, optionally (poly)hydroxylated, chosen from the group consisting of Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from the group consisting of Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, and mixtures thereof.

• GRANSURF de Grant Industries, de nom INCI Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate,
• DEHYMULS® de BASF, de nom INCI Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate,
• DUB ISO de Stearinerie Dubois, Hostacerin® TGI, Dermol TGDIS, Dapracare® PG3DI MB, LAMEFORM® TGI, IMWITOR® PG3 DIS ou PGLIS 203KC, de nom INCI Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,
• Soldoc PGPR, Hydriol® PGR, Evicare® PGPR, Cithrol™ PG3PR, Akoline PGPR™, dermofeel® PGPR, ou VERCAREM P3P de nom INCI Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate,
• MAKIBASE SEB de nom INCI Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate & Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate,
• SY-GLYSTER de Sakamoto Yakuhin kogyo, PELEMOL® 6GPR, S Face CR-1001, NIKKOL Hexaglyn PR-15, ou SUNSOFT No.818SK-C(MB), de nom INCI Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate,
• S-FACE de Sakamoto Yakuhin kogyo, COSMOL 41V, Dermol DGMIS, Risorex PGIS21, PGLIS 102KC, Cithrol™ PG21IS, ou Risorex PGIS22 de nom INCI le Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate,
• OLIVEM de Aroma Zone, de nom INCI Polyglyceryl- 4 oleate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate,
• NIKKOMULESE de NIKKOL GROUP (Nikko Chemicals), de nom INCI Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate (and) Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate,
• SALACOS PG 218, SUNSOFT Q-172Y-(G)C(MB) ou PGLOL 210KCn de nom INCI Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, et
• S Face O-401P, Jeechem 100, NIKKOL Tetraglyn 1-OV, Hydriol® PGHO.4, Hydriol® PGO, Hydriol® PGLO.4, Hydriol® PGMO.4, DUROSOFT® PG4-O, ou Protachem™ 100, de nom INCI Polyglyceryl- 4 oleate,
• et leurs mélanges.

As commercial products which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the products marketed under the following names:

• GRANSURF from Grant Industries, named INCI Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate,
• DEHYMULS® from BASF, INCI name Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate,
• DUB ISO from Stearinerie Dubois, Hostacerin® TGI, Dermol TGDIS, Dapracare® PG3DI MB, LAMEFORM® TGI, IMWITOR® PG3 DIS or PGLIS 203KC, INCI name Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,
• Soldoc PGPR, Hydriol® PGR, Evicare® PGPR, Cithrol™ PG3PR, Akoline PGPR™, dermofeel® PGPR, or VERCAREM P3P by INCI name Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate,
• MAKIBASE SEB by INCI name Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate & Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate,
• SY-GLYSTER from Sakamoto Yakuhin kogyo, PELEMOL® 6GPR, S Face CR-1001, NIKKOL Hexaglyn PR-15, or SUNSOFT No.818SK-C(MB), INCI name Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate,
• S-FACE by Sakamoto Yakuhin kogyo, COSMOL 41V, Dermol DGMIS, Risorex PGIS21, PGLIS 102KC, Cithrol™ PG21IS, or Risorex PGIS22 by INCI name Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate,
• OLIVEM from Aroma Zone, INCI name Polyglyceryl-4 oleate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate,
• NIKKOMULESE from NIKKOL GROUP (Nikko Chemicals), INCI name Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate (and) Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate,
• SALACOS PG 218, SUNSOFT Q-172Y-(G)C(MB) or PGLOL 210KCn of INCI name Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, and
• S Face O-401P, Jeechem 100, NIKKOL Tetraglyn 1-OV, Hydriol® PGHO.4, Hydriol® PGO, Hydriol® PGLO.4, Hydriol® PGMO.4, DUROSOFT® PG4-O, or Protachem™ 100, INCI name Polyglyceryl-4 oleate,
• and their mixtures.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one ester of polyglycerol and non-(poly)hydroxylated fatty acid, and optionally in addition an ester of polyglycerol and (poly)hydroxylated fatty acid.

Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, chosen from the group consisting of:
- Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate (combination of the two);
- Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate;
- Polyglyceryl-4 oleate and Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate (combination of the two);
- Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate (combination of the two);
- Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate;
- Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate;
- Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate;
and their mixtures.

Among the particular and preferred associations which can be used in the compositions of the invention, we can cite:
- Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate and Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate;
- Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate;
- Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate and Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate; And
- Polyglyceryl-4 oleate and Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate;

preferably one of the associations chosen from:
- Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate; And
- Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate and Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate;

more preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate.

Thus, preferably the composition of the invention comprises at least two esters of polyglycerol and C10-C20 fatty acid, optionally (poly)hydroxylated.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, it comprises an ester of polyglycerol and (poly)hydroxylated fatty acid and an ester of polyglycerol and non-(poly)hydroxylated fatty acid, preferably a Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and a Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate.

The total content of polyglycerol ester(s) and fatty acids in the composition of the invention will range in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, in particular from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, the total content of polyglycerol esters and (poly)hydroxylated fatty acids will generally range from 0.1 to 8% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 6%, preferably from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The total content of polyglycerol esters and non-(poly)hydroxylated fatty acids will generally range from 0 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises:

a) a candelilla resin, in particular in a content ranging from 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

b) a pullulan, in particular in a content ranging from 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

• le Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate et le Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate ;
• le Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, le Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate et le Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate ; et
• le Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate et le Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,

(c) an emulsifying system, in a content ranging from 1 to 8% by weight, in particular from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising one of the combinations chosen from:

• Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate;
• Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate and Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate; And
• Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,

preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate.

Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises:

(a) a candelilla resin, in particular in a content ranging from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

(b) a pullulan, in particular in a content ranging from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

c) a Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, in particular in a content ranging from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and a Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, in particular in a content ranging from 0.5 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention generally represents from 40 to 85% by weight, in particular from 50 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

The water content will generally range from 40 to 80% by weight, in particular from 50 to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to the invention, the term ‘water-soluble solvent’ means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure). In particular, we may cite:

- lower C1-C5 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and their mixtures, preferably ethanol;

- C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, preferably C3-C5 glycols;

- C2-C32 polyols such as glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof,

and their mixtures.

It may also include hydrophilic gelling agents, antioxidants, preservatives and their mixtures.

Thus, a cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least one water-soluble solvent chosen from C1-C5 lower monoalcohols, C2-C8 glycols, preferably C3-C5, C2-C32 polyols, and their mixtures, preferably in a total content ranging from 5 to 25% by weight, in particular from 8 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention will advantageously further comprise at least polyols and/or glycols in a total content ranging from 3 to 12% by weight, in particular 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for a moisturizing effect promoting the obtaining of a radiant complexion (‘glow’ or luminous effect) without a greasy effect. Preferably, the composition comprises at least one or more C3-C5 glycols, preferably in a total content ranging from 3 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oily phase

The composition of the invention comprises at least one continuous oily phase.

The term "oil phase" means an oil or a mixture of oils miscible with each other.

By "oil" we mean a fatty substance, not soluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

An oily phase according to the invention comprises one or more hydrocarbon oils.

These oils can be volatile or non-volatile, vegetable, mineral or synthetic.

Preferably, oils of natural origin will be used in the context of the invention.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, in particular:

- C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR® or PERMETYL®,

- linear alkanes having hydrocarbon chains in:

- C9-C17, C10-C14, C11-C13 such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Créations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate,

- C9-C12, C12-C14, such as those marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name C9-12 ALKANE), VEGELIGHT® 1214LC,

- n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), notably sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97 respectively,

- C15-C19, such as those marketed by Seppic under the name EMOGREEN® L15,

and their mixtures.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention will comprise one or more linear C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12 and one or more linear C15-C19 alkanes.

The total content of C8-C19 alkanes will generally range from 5 to 40% by weight, in particular from 10 to 30%, and more preferably 10 to 20% relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the content of C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12 will range from 10% to 20% and the content of C15-C19 alkanes will range from 0.5% to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Indeed, in order to maintain and/or improve the desired non-transfer properties, the total content of linear C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, will generally be higher than the total content of linear C15-C19 alkanes, the C9-C14 alkanes being more volatile than the C15-C19 alkanes. In particular, the total content of linear C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, will be 5 to 15 times higher than the total content of linear C15-C19 alkanes.

Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises one or more C8-C19 alkanes, in particular in a content ranging from 5 to 40% by weight, in particular from 10 to 30%, preferably from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, with a content of C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, preferably ranging from 10% to 20% by weight and a content of C15-C19 alkanes preferably ranging from 0.5% to 10%, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises:

a) a candelilla resin, in particular in a content ranging from 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

b) a pullulan, in particular in a content ranging from 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

• le Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate et le Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate ;
• le Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, le Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate et le Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate ; et
• le Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate et le Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,

(c) an emulsifying system, in particular in a content ranging from 1 to 8% by weight, in particular from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising one of the combinations chosen from:

• Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate;
• Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate and Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate; And
• Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,

preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, and

d) one or more linear C8-C19 alkanes, in particular in a total content of 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular one or more C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12 and advantageously in addition one or more C15-C19 alkanes, with a content of C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, preferably ranging from 10% to 20% by weight and a content of C15-C19 alkanes preferably ranging from 0.5% to 10%, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention will further comprise pigments and optionally fillers, preferably treated with a lipophilic treatment agent.

Pigments

The composition of the invention will further comprise one or more pigments.

According to a preferred embodiment, the pigments are surface treated with at least one hydrophobic or lipophilic treatment agent.

By “pigments” we mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and/or opacify the resulting deposit.

According to a particular embodiment, the pigment(s) are in particular chosen from mineral and/or organic pigments, composite pigments (based on mineral and/or organic materials), nacres or pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of "mineral pigments" include titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), possibly surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue.

Examples of “organic pigments” include D & C red pigments No. 19; D & C red pigments No. 9; D & C Red pigments No. 22; D & C Red pigments No. 21; D & C Red pigments No. 28; D & C Yellow pigments No. 6; D & C orange pigments No. 4; D & C orange pigments No. 5; D & C Red pigments No. 27; D & C red pigments No. 13; D & C Red pigments No. 7; D & C Red pigments No. 6; D & C Yellow pigments No. 5; D & C Red pigments No. 36; D & C Red pigments No. 33; D & C orange pigments No. 10; D & C yellow pigments No. 6; D & C Red pigments No. 30; D & C red pigments No. 3; D & C Blue pigments No. 1; carbon black and cochineal carmine lakes.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least iron oxides.

Advantageously, the pigments are surface-treated with at least one hydrophobic or lipophilic treatment agent for better dispersion in the oily phase. The hydrophobic treatment agent is in particular chosen from the group consisting of metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; diisostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and mixtures thereof, in particular N-acylated amino acids or their salts.

In particular, the pigment(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 4% to 35% by weight, preferably from 8% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Charges

The composition of the invention may further comprise one or more fillers.

Preferably, the filler(s) are treated with a lipophilic agent such as those described for the pigments above.

By “fillers” is meant particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition. These fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and/or to confer a mattifying effect. The fillers may be mineral or organic of any shape: platelet, spherical or oblong.

Thus, for a mattifying makeup result, the composition may include one or more fillers in a total content ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For a more luminous makeup result (‘glow’ effect in English), little or no mattifying fillers will be used in the composition of the invention.

• les poudres de celluloses,
• la cellulose microcrystalline,
• la lauroyl lysine,
• le Saccharomyces Ferment
• les poudres de nitrure de bore
• les poudres de silice,
• les poudres d’amidon,
• le calcium carbonate,
• les argiles,
• les poudres Fluorphlogopite synthétique,

Thus the charge(s) according to the invention are chosen in particular from:

• cellulose powders,
• microcrystalline cellulose,
• lauroyl lysine,
• Saccharomyces Ferment
• boron nitride powders
• silica powders,
• starch powders,
• calcium carbonate,
• clays,
• Synthetic Fluorphlogopite powders,

and their mixtures.

Examples include the composite powder based on Saccharomyces Ferment and Lauroyl lysine such as that marketed under the name GRANDPOWDER® by Grant Industries, and the hydrophobically treated cellulose powder such as that marketed under the name CELLULOBEADS® by DAITO KAISEI, or the modified corn starch powder marketed under the name MICROMATRIX DRY SPHERE by CCW-SARL or the magnesium stearate treated microcrystalline cellulose marketed under the name S-STM MAKIGREEN MC by Daito Kasei.

According to a particular embodiment, the filler(s) according to the invention are chosen from the group consisting of cellulose powders, lauroyl lysine, Saccharomyces Ferment and their mixtures.

The total content of fillers according to the invention will range in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

GALENIC

The composition is preferably intended to be applied to the skin, in particular the skin of the face and/or neck, and is in the form of a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion.

In a particular embodiment, the composition is in the form of a facial fluid, a foundation, a foundation base, a finisher or a concealer. Preferably, it is a facial makeup composition, in particular a foundation.

According to a first mode, it will be a mattifying foundation (otherwise called ‘matte’).

In another mode, it will be a luminous foundation (otherwise called ‘glow’).

Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention is a mattifying complexion composition and comprises:

a) A candelilla resin, in particular in a content ranging from 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

b) A pullulan, in particular in a content ranging from 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

• le Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate et le Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate ;
• le Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, le Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate et le Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate ; et
• le Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate et le Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,

(c) An emulsifying system, in particular in a content ranging from 1 to 8% by weight, in particular from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising one of the combinations chosen from:

• Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate;
• Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate and Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate; And
• Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,

preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, and

d) one or more linear C8-C19 alkanes, in particular in a total content of 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular one or more C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, in a content preferably ranging from 10 to 20% by weight, and advantageously in addition one or more C15-C19 alkanes in a content preferably ranging from 0.5 to 10%, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

e) mineral pigments, in particular iron oxides, preferably surface-treated with a lipophilic agent, in particular in a content ranging from 8 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

f) Fillers, in particular cellulose or lauroyl lysine particles, in particular in a content ranging from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention is a luminous complexion composition and comprises:

a) A candelilla resin, in particular in a content ranging from 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

b) A pullulan, in particular in a content ranging from 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

• le Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate et le Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate ;
• le Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, le Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate et le Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate ; et
• le Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate et le Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,

(c) An emulsifying system, in particular in a content ranging from 1 to 8% by weight, in particular from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising one of the combinations chosen from:

• Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate;
• Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate and Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate; And
• Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,

preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,

d) one or more linear C8-C19 alkanes, in particular in a total content of 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular one or more C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, in a content preferably ranging from 10% to 20% by weight, and advantageously in addition one or more C15-C19 alkanes in a content preferably ranging from 0.5 to 10%, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

e) Mineral pigments, in particular iron oxides, preferably surface-treated with a lipophilic agent, in particular in a content ranging from 8 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics such as antioxidants, gelling agents, preservatives, perfumes, cosmetic active agents, such as for example emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, anti-aging agents, lightening agents, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

As lipophilic gelling agent, we can cite in particular mineral gelling agents such as bentones, preferably a quaternary hectorite.

COSMETIC PROCESS

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably the skin of the face and/or neck, comprising the application to said keratin material of at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined previously in the invention.

In particular, the cosmetic process according to the invention allows the deposition on the skin of a thin film like a second skin, with a matte or luminous finish, comfortable and very soft, with good hold, without transfer.

According to a first embodiment, for a matte and transfer-free makeup result, a foundation composition comprising:

a) A candelilla resin, in particular in a content ranging from 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

b) A pullulan, in particular in a content ranging from 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

• le Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate et le Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate ;
• le Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, le Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate et le Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate ; et
• le Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate et le Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,

(c) An emulsifying system, in particular in a content ranging from 1 to 8% by weight, in particular from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising one of the combinations chosen from:

• Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate;
• Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate and Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate; And
• Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,

preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,

d) one or more linear C8-C19 alkanes, in particular in a total content of 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular one or more C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, in a content preferably ranging from 10 to 20% by weight and advantageously in addition one or more C15-C19 alkanes in a content preferably ranging from 0.5 to 10%, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

e) mineral pigments, in particular iron oxides, preferably surface-treated with a lipophilic agent, in particular in a content ranging from 8 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

f) Fillers, in particular cellulose or lauroyl lysine particles, in particular in a content ranging from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to another embodiment, for a luminous and transfer-free makeup result, a luminous foundation composition comprising:

a) A candelilla resin, in particular in a content ranging from 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

b) A pullulan, in particular in a content ranging from 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

• le Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate et le Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate ;
• le Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, le Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate et le Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate ; et
• le Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate et le Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,

(c) An emulsifying system, in particular in a content ranging from 1 to 8% by weight, in particular from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising one of the combinations chosen from:

• Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate;
• Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate and Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate; And
• Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,

preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,

d) one or more linear C8-C19 alkanes, in particular in a total content of 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular one or more C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, in a content preferably ranging from 10 to 20% by weight and advantageously in addition one or more C15-C19 alkanes in a content preferably ranging from 0.5 to 10%, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

e) Mineral pigments, in particular iron oxides, preferably surface-treated with a lipophilic agent, in particular in a content ranging from 8 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The invention will be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, the % are expressed as % by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

EXAMPLES

The Applicant tested several film-forming agents to select the combination of candelilla resin and pullulan present in the compositions of the invention.

Example 1: Selection of candelilla resin

INGREDIENTS (INCI Name)
% by weight % by weight Comparative Invention EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX EXTRACT (CANDELILLA RESIN-) - 1 PULLULAN 1 1 CANARIUM LUZONICUM GUM NONVOLATILE (AND) SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL (RESIN BEECH) 1 - AQUA (purified water) Qsp100 Qsp100 C9-12 ALKANE 13.2 13.2 COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE 1.6 1.6 C15-19 ALKANE 1 1 DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE 0.6 0.6 POLYGLYCERYL-2 ISOSTEARATE 1 1 POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRICINOLEATE 2.9 2.9 POLYGLYCERYL-10 DECAISOSTEARATE 0.5 0.5 HYDROPHOBIC TREATED INORGANIC PIGMENTS 13 13 PIGMENT DISPERSANT 0.1 0.1 GLYCOLS C3-C5 5 5 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.5 0.5 PRESERVATIVES AND PERFUMES Qs Qs EVALUATIONS Stability Not stable Stable No transfer Nd ++ Dullness Nd -

Nd = not determined

Preparation protocol

• Les pigments, une partie des huiles et le dispersant des pigments sont mélangés et passés au broyeur tricylindre à température ambiante pour obtenir une pâte pigmentaire ;
• Séparément, on a préparé une phase huile avec le polymère lipophile (candelilla resin), qui est chauffée et homogénéisée à chaud ; cette phase huile est ensuite refroidie avant incorporation ;
• La phase aqueuse est préparée en mélangeant l’eau, les glycols, le polymère hydrosoluble (pullulan) et les additifs à température ambiante jusqu’à homogénéisation ;
• La phase grasse est préparée à température ambiante : la partie restante des huiles, les tensioactifs et l’hectorite sont homogénéisées sous agitation ; puis est ajoutée la pâte pigmentaire préparée ci-dessus, et le tout est homogénéisé sous fort cisaillement ; est enfin ajoutée la phase huile avec le polymère lipophile et le tout est homogénéisé ;
• La phase aqueuse est ensuite versée progressivement dans la phase grasse en augmentant progressivement l’agitation pour émulsionner les deux phases à température ambiante, et le mélange est laissé sous agitation une quinzaine de minutes.
• Les charges, lorsqu’elles sont présentes (par exemple à l’exemple 1.2 décrit ci-dessous), peuvent être soit ajoutées au préalable dans leur phase d’affinité (lipophile dans le cas présent) avant émulsion ou après émulsion sous forte agitation, et on laisse homogénéiser le mélange 10-15 minutes.

The compositions are prepared according to the following protocol:

• The pigments, part of the oils and the pigment dispersant are mixed and passed through a three-cylinder mill at room temperature to obtain a pigment paste;
• Separately, an oil phase was prepared with the lipophilic polymer (candelilla resin), which was heated and homogenized while hot; this oil phase was then cooled before incorporation;
• The aqueous phase is prepared by mixing water, glycols, water-soluble polymer (pullulan) and additives at room temperature until homogenized;
• The fatty phase is prepared at room temperature: the remaining part of the oils, the surfactants and the hectorite are homogenized under stirring; then the pigment paste prepared above is added, and the whole is homogenized under high shear; finally the oil phase is added with the lipophilic polymer and the whole is homogenized;
• The aqueous phase is then gradually poured into the fatty phase, gradually increasing the stirring to emulsify the two phases at room temperature, and the mixture is left stirring for around fifteen minutes.
• The fillers, when present (for example in example 1.2 described below), can either be added beforehand in their affinity phase (lipophilic in this case) before emulsion or after emulsion with vigorous stirring, and the mixture is left to homogenize for 10-15 minutes.

Assessment protocols

• Stabilité de la composition dans le temps et à différentes températures,
• Non-transfert du film de fond de teint mesuré au texturomètre,
• Matité du film de fond de teint (Mesure de brillance à 60° avec le Brillancemètre),
• Et le cas échéant, couvrance du fond de teint (Mesure de couleur à l’aide d’un spectrocolorimètre).

The compositions thus obtained are evaluated according to different criteria, the protocols of which are specified below:

• Stability of the composition over time and at different temperatures,
• Non-transfer of the foundation film measured by the texturometer,
• Mattness of the foundation film (Gloss measurement at 60° with the Glossmeter),
• And if applicable, foundation coverage (Color measurement using a spectrocolorimeter).

The amount of foundation applied is calibrated.

Evaluation of the stability of the composition

• 3 mois à température ambiante (TA) ;
• 2 semaines en alternance (cycles de 12h entre -10°C et + 40°C)
• 1 mois à 50°C
• 3 mois à 45°C, et
• 6 mois à 4°C.

The stability of the composition is evaluated in ovens under the following conditions:

• 3 months at room temperature (RT);
• 2 weeks alternating (12-hour cycles between -10°C and +40°C)
• 1 month at 50°C
• 3 months at 45°C, and
• 6 months at 4°C.

A composition is said to be stable if it is stable under all of the conditions described above.

Evaluation of non-transfer

The foundation is spread on a support and after drying in an oven (1 hour at 40°C), the non-transfer properties of the film are evaluated using a Texturometer equipped with a cotton pad and analysis of the soiling state of the cotton pad compared to the white reference (white cotton pad).

The amount of foundation applied is calibrated.

The following ratings are given:

+++: does not transfer

++: very slight transfer

+: slight transfer

- : transfer

Assessment of dullness

The matte/glossy nature of the composition is assessed using a glossmeter, which measures the reflective gloss of a surface. A value for this parameter is determined by projecting a beam of light at a fixed intensity and angle onto a surface and measuring the amount of light reflected at an equal but opposite angle. Angle: 60° The composition is spread (30µm) on a LENETA contrast card and then placed in an oven at 25°C, 40% humidity for 24 hours. Four measurements are taken (2 on black card, 2 on white card) and the value is measured with standard deviation. The results are analyzed in relation to comparative values with the following reference: <5 = matte; >30: glow or luminous; >60= glossy.

The following ratings are given with reference to dullness:

+++: very matte

++ : mat

+: medium matte

- : slightly shiny (which can also be described as luminous or “glow”)

-- : bright

--- : very bright

Coverage

The coverage of some compositions was also evaluated (example 1.2 below)

The coverage of the foundation applied to the skin is assessed by an expert.

The coverage of imperfections in the relief of the foundation film applied to the skin of the face can be assessed immediately after application (T0 and T6h).

The following ratings are given with reference to coverage:

+++: very covering

++: medium coverage

+: little coverage

- : non-covering

The results of the evaluations noted in Table 1 show that the use of a candelilla resin, compared to another resin, allows, in association with pullulan, in a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an emulsifying system comprising one or more distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, to obtain good stability of the composition, good non-transfer and matt properties.

Example 2. Selection of pullulan 2.1 Formulations with and without pullulan

INGREDIENTS (INCI name)

% by weight % by weight % by weight % by weight % by weight Comparative Comparative Invention Invention Invention EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX EXTRACT (CANDELILLA RESIN E-2) 1.0 2.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 PULLULAN - - 1.0 1.0 1.0 C9-12 ALKANE 13.7 13.7 13.7 14.2 13.7 COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.7 1.6 C15-19 ALKANE 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE 0.4 0.4 0.4 - 0.4 POLYGLYCERYL-2 DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEARATE 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 INORGANIC PIGMENTS WITH HYDROPHOBIC TREATMENT 14 13 13 13 13 PIGMENT DISPERSANT 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 FILLERS WITH HYDROPHOBIC TREATMENT 3.0 3.0 3.0 - - GLYCOLS C3-C5 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 PRESERVATIVES AND PERFUMES qs Qs qs qs qs AQUA (purified water) qsp100 qsp100 qsp100 qsp100 qsp100 EVALUATIONS Stability Not stable Not stable stable stable stable No transfer nd nd +++ ++ +++ Dullness nd nd +++ + ++

nd = not determined

The compositions are prepared and evaluated according to the preparation and evaluation protocols described in Example 1.

The results of the evaluations noted in Table 2 show that the use of pullulan, compared to a formulation without pullulan, allows, in association with candelilla resin, in a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an emulsifying system comprising one or more distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, to obtain good stability of the composition and very good non-transfer properties. The composition also has good matting properties.

The last examples according to the invention in this table 2 show that the presence of a hectorite contributes to the mattness result of the composition (the composition without hectorite is less matt).

2.2 Compositions with pullulan compared to a starch (another polysaccharide)

INGREDIENTS (INCI name)
% by weight % by weight % by weight Comparative Invention Invention EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX EXTRACT (CANDELILLA RESIN) 1.0 1.0 1.0 PULLULAN - 1.0 1.0 HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH (BEAUTE BY ROQUETTE) 1.0 - - C9-12 ALKANE 11.3 11.3 12.7 COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE 1.5 1.5 1.6 C15-19 ALKANE 1.0 1.0 1.0 POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRICINOLEATE 3.2 3.2 3.2 POLYGLYCERYL-10 DECAISOSTEARATE 1.0 1.0 1.0 POLYGLYCERYL-10 DIOLEATE 0.8 0.8 0.8 HYDROPHOBIC TREATED INORGANIC PIGMENTS 13 13 12.3 PIGMENT DISPERSANT 0.1 0.1 0.1 CHARGE WITH HYDROPHOBIC TREATMENT - - 3.0 GLYCOLS C3-C5 5.0 5.0 5.0 PRESERVATIVES AND PERFUMES qs Qs qs AQUA (WATER) qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 EVALUATIONS Stability stable stable stable No transfer -- ++ ++ Dullness nd -- +++ Coverage nd + +++

nd = not determined

The compositions are prepared and evaluated according to the preparation and evaluation protocols described in Example 1.

The results of the evaluations noted in Table 3 show that the use of pullulan, compared to another polysaccharide, here a starch, allows, in association with candelilla resin, in a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an emulsifying system comprising one or more distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, to obtain good stability of the composition and good non-transfer properties.

The addition of one or more fillers with a lipophilic treatment, as in the second example according to the invention in Table 3, makes it possible to increase the matting and coverage properties of the foundation film applied to the skin.

Example 3: Illustrative examples of foundation according to the invention

3.1 Compositions according to the invention with an emulsifying system comprising Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-10 dioleate

INGREDIENTS (INCI name)
% by weight % by weight Foundation
bright Foundation
mast EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX EXTRACT (CANDELILLA RESIN E-2) 1 1 PULLULAN 1 1 C9-12 ALKANE 11.3 9.9 COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE 1.5 1.4 C15-19 ALKANE 1 1 POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRICINOLEATE 4.2 4.2 POLYGLYCERYL-10 DIOLEATE 0.8 0.8 HYDROPHOBIC TREATED INORGANIC PIGMENTS 13 13 PIGMENT DISPERSANT 0.1 0.1 FILLERS WITH HYDROPHOBIC TREATMENT 3.0 GLYCOLS C3-C5 5 5 PRESERVATIVES AND PERFUMES qs qs AQUA (purified water) qsp 100 qsp 100 EVALUATIONS Stability stable stable No transfer ++ ++ Dullness -- ++

The compositions are prepared and evaluated according to the preparation and evaluation protocols described in Example 1.

The results of the evaluations noted in Table 4 show that the addition of fillers with a lipophilic treatment allows, in association with the film-forming system and the emulsifying system of the invention, to obtain an improved mattness without impacting the stability and non-transfer properties.

For a less matte and more luminous result, the composition will include little or no filler, as illustrated by the first formula in this table.

3.2 Composition according to the invention with an emulsifying system comprising Polyglyceryl-4 oleate and Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate

INGREDIENTS (INCI Name)
% by weight % by weight Foundation
bright Foundation
mast EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX EXTRACT (CANDELILLA RESIN E-2) 1.0 1.0 PULLULAN 1.0 1.0 C9-12 ALKANE 12.3 11.0 COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE 1.5 1.4 C15-19 ALKANE 1.5 1.5 DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE 0.5 0.5 POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEATE (AND) POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE 3.0 3.0 HYDROPHOBIC TREATED INORGANIC PIGMENTS 13 13 PIGMENT DISPERSANT 0.1 0.1 HYDROPHOBIC TREATED FILLERS - 3.0 GLYCOLS C3-C5 5.0 5.0 PRESERVATIVES AND PERFUMES qs qs AQUA (purified water) Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Stability stable Stable No transfer ++ ++ Dullness - (bright) +++ (mat)

The compositions are prepared and evaluated according to the preparation and evaluation protocols described in Example 1.

The results of the evaluations noted in Table 4 show that the addition of fillers with a lipophilic treatment allows, in association with the film-forming system and the emulsifying system of the invention, to obtain an improved mattness without impacting the stability and non-transfer properties.

For a less matte and more luminous result, the composition will include little or no filler, as illustrated by the first formula in this table.

Claims (11)

Cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
a) a Candelilla resin,
b) a pullulan, and
(c) an emulsifying system comprising one or more distinct, optionally (poly)hydroxylated, polyglycerol and fatty acid esters. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the polyglycerol and fatty acid ester(s), optionally (poly)hydroxylated, are chosen from the group consisting of Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from the group consisting of Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that it comprises at least one ester of polyglycerol and non-(poly)hydroxylated fatty acid, and optionally in addition one ester of polyglycerol and (poly)hydroxylated fatty acid. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that it comprises one or more distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, chosen from the group consisting of:
- Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate
- Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate
- Polyglyceryl-4 oleate and Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
- Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate
- Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate
- Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
- Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate
and their mixtures,
in particular polyglycerol esters of fatty acid chosen from the group consisting of:
- Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate and Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate
- Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
- Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate and Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and
- Polyglyceryl-4 oleate and Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, and
preferably the polyglycerol and fatty acid esters chosen from the group consisting of:
- Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate and
- Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate and Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate and
more preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the total content of polyglycerol esters and optionally (poly)hydroxylated fatty acids ranges from 1 to 8% by weight, in particular from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the candelilla resin content ranges from 0.2 to 3% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 3% by weight, in particular from 1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the pullulan content ranges from 0.2 to 3% by weight, in particular from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it further comprises d) one or more C8-C19 alkanes, in particular in a content ranging from 5 to 40% by weight, in particular from 10 to 30%, preferably from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, with a content of C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12 alkanes preferentially ranging from 10% to 20% by weight and a content of C15-C19 alkanes preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 10%, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it further comprises pigments and fillers, preferably treated with a lipophilic treatment agent. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is a facial fluid, a foundation, a foundation base, a finisher or a concealer. Cosmetic process for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably the skin of the face and/or neck, comprising the application to said keratin material of at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10.