FR3119316A1 - COSMETIC WATER-IN-OIL SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION, USE OF A COSMETIC WATER-IN-OIL SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION, AND METHOD FOR MAKING A COSMETIC WATER-IN-OIL SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION - Google Patents
COSMETIC WATER-IN-OIL SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION, USE OF A COSMETIC WATER-IN-OIL SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION, AND METHOD FOR MAKING A COSMETIC WATER-IN-OIL SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION Download PDFInfo
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
- A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4966—Triazines or their condensed derivatives
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/42—Colour properties
- A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
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- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
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- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
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- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
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- Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
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Abstract
COMPOSITION COSMÉTIQUE D’ÉCRAN SOLAIRE D’EAU DANS L’HUILE, UTILISATION D’UNE COMPOSITION COSMÉTIQUE D’ÉCRAN SOLAIRE D’EAU DANS L’HUILE, ET PROCÉDÉ POUR FABRIQUER UNE COMPOSITION COSMÉTIQUE D’ÉCRAN SOLAIRE D’EAU DANS L’HUILE La présente invention porte sur de nouvelles compositions cosmétiques d’écran solaire d’eau dans l’huile, en particulier pour les soins, pour le maquillage et pour la photoprotection de la peau comprenant (a) au moins un pigment, (b) au moins un filtre UV, (c) de la diméthicone, et (d) de l’eau, dans lesquelles le rapport pondéral entre l’eau et la diméthicone est spécifié. La présente invention porte également sur l’utilisation d’une composition cosmétique d’écran solaire d’eau dans l’huile, et sur un procédé pour fabriquer une composition cosmétique d’écran solaire d’eau dans l’huile. Figure pour l'abrégé : Néant. COSMETIC WATER-IN-OIL SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION, USE OF A COSMETIC WATER-IN-OIL SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION, AND METHOD FOR MAKING A COSMETIC WATER-IN-OIL SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION The present invention relates to new cosmetic water-in-oil sunscreen compositions, in particular for care, for make-up and for photoprotection of the skin, comprising (a) at least one pigment, (b) at least one UV filter, (c) dimethicone, and (d) water, in which the weight ratio between water and dimethicone is specified. The present invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic water-in-oil sunscreen composition, and to a process for making a cosmetic water-in-oil sunscreen composition. Figure for the abstract: None.
Description
DOMAINE DE L’INVENTIONFIELD OF THE INVENTION
La présente invention porte sur de nouvelles compositions cosmétiques d’écran solaire d’eau dans l’huile, en particulier pour les soins, pour le maquillage et pour la photoprotection de la peau comprenant (a) au moins un pigment, (b) au moins un filtre UV, (c) de la diméthicone, et (d) de l’eau, dans lesquelles le rapport pondéral entre l’eau et la diméthicone est spécifié. La présente invention porte également sur l’utilisation d’une composition cosmétique d’écran solaire d’eau dans l’huile, et sur un procédé pour fabriquer une composition cosmétique d’écran solaire d’eau dans l’huile.The present invention relates to new cosmetic water-in-oil sunscreen compositions, in particular for care, for make-up and for photoprotection of the skin, comprising (a) at least one pigment, (b) at least one UV filter, (c) dimethicone, and (d) water, in which the weight ratio between water and dimethicone is specified. The present invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic water-in-oil sunscreen composition, and to a process for making a cosmetic water-in-oil sunscreen composition.
CONTEXTE DE L’INVENTIONBACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
La photoprotection des matériaux kératineux, y compris à la fois la peau et les cheveux, est considérée de grande importance afin de protéger des dommages causés par le soleil, des coups de soleil, du photo-vieillissement, ainsi que pour diminuer les risques de développement d’un cancer de la peau causé par l’exposition à un rayonnement ultraviolet (« UV »). Il existe typiquement deux types de compositions cosmétiques d’écran solaire UVA/UVB utilisés pour accomplir une photoprotection, à savoir, les filtres UV inorganiques et les filtres UV organiques.Photoprotection of keratinous materials, including both skin and hair, is considered of great importance in order to protect against sun damage, sunburn, photo-aging, as well as to decrease the risk of development skin cancer caused by exposure to ultraviolet (“UV”) radiation. There are typically two types of cosmetic UVA/UVB sunscreen compositions used to accomplish photoprotection, namely, inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters.
Le degré de protection UV offert par une composition cosmétique d’écran solaire est lié à la quantité, au type et à la combinaison de filtres UV contenus dans celle-ci. En particulier, les compositions cosmétiques d’écran solaire doivent fournir une bonne protection contre le soleil, dont une mesure est la valeur du facteur de protection solaire (FPS), un équilibre souhaitable entre protection UVA et UVB, en particulier un facteur de protection minimum contre les UVA, tout en présentant une perception sensorielle satisfaisante, telle qu’une sensation douce mais pas grasse lors de l’application.The degree of UV protection offered by a cosmetic sunscreen composition is related to the amount, type and combination of UV filters contained therein. In particular, cosmetic sunscreen compositions should provide good protection against the sun, one measure of which is the sun protection factor (SPF) value, a desirable balance between UVA and UVB protection, in particular a minimum protection factor against UVA, while presenting a satisfactory sensory perception, such as a soft but not greasy feeling during application.
De plus, il est également souhaitable de produire une composition cosmétique d’écran solaire qui non seulement confère une photoprotection des matériaux kératineux, mais également qui fournit des propriétés additionnelles. Par exemple, il est souhaitable de produire une composition cosmétique d’écran solaire teintée présentant un FPS élevé, ayant la capacité de teinter la peau pour corriger les imperfections, de préférence présentant un pouvoir couvrant élevé et une sensation veloutée sur la peau, qui soit capable de convenir à différent teints, fournissant ainsi un effet maquillant.In addition, it is also desirable to produce a cosmetic sunscreen composition which not only confers photoprotection on keratinous materials, but which also provides additional properties. For example, it is desirable to produce a tinted sunscreen cosmetic composition exhibiting high SPF, having the ability to tint the skin to correct blemishes, preferably exhibiting high covering power and a velvety feel on the skin, which is able to suit different complexions, thus providing a makeup effect.
Le degré de couverture fourni par une composition cosmétique d’écran solaire teintée, lorsqu’elle est appliquée sur la peau, est directement lié à la quantité de pigments présents dans la composition. La sensation veloutée sur la peau est obtenue en utilisant de la silicone dans la formulation, en particulier de la diméthicone.The degree of coverage provided by a cosmetic tinted sunscreen composition, when applied to the skin, is directly related to the amount of pigments present in the composition. The velvety feel on the skin is achieved by using silicone in the formulation, specifically dimethicone.
Toutefois, cette combinaison de propriétés a été difficile à atteindre, en particulier parce que la présence de quantités élevées de pigments et de filtres UV dans les compositions cosmétiques d’écran solaire teintées résulte en des problèmes de stabilité dans la formulation, en particulier la migration des pigments vers la surface de la composition, créant même des points de décoloration sur ladite surface. De plus, la silicone tend à se séparer de la composition, résultant en une phase séparée, ce qui n’est pas souhaitable. Ces problèmes sont intensifiés dans les teintes plus sombres de compositions cosmétiques d’écran solaire teintées.However, this combination of properties has been difficult to achieve, in particular because the presence of high amounts of pigments and UV filters in cosmetic tinted sunscreen compositions results in problems of stability in the formulation, in particular the migration pigments towards the surface of the composition, even creating spots of discoloration on said surface. Additionally, the silicone tends to separate from the composition, resulting in a separate phase, which is undesirable. These problems are intensified in the darker shades of tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions.
Les émulsions d’eau dans l’huile sont des formes galéniques hautement recherchées, en raison de la facilité avec laquelle elles sont appliquées sur la peau et de leurs propriétés sensorielles dans les produits cosmétiques dans le domaine des soins, en particulier dans les compositions cosmétiques d’écran solaire, dans les compositions anti-vieillissement et dans le maquillage, tel que le fond de teint.Water-in-oil emulsions are highly sought after dosage forms, due to the ease with which they are applied to the skin and their sensory properties in cosmetic products in the field of care, in particular in cosmetic compositions sunscreen, in anti-aging compositions and in make-up, such as foundation.
Les émulsions d’eau dans l’huile ne présentent pas toujours, d’une part, une stabilité au stockage qui soit entièrement satisfaisante de manière égale aux basses températures (à savoir : 4 °C), à température ambiante (à savoir : 25 °C) et aux températures élevées (à savoir : 45 °C et 55 °C) et, d’autre part, des propriétés sensorielles qui soient entièrement satisfaisantes, telles qu’une souplesse, un effet non poisseux, un effet non gras, une sensation veloutée sur la peau, une sensation de légèreté après l’application, ou un bon glissant.Water-in-oil emulsions do not always exhibit, on the one hand, a storage stability which is entirely satisfactory equally at low temperatures (i.e.: 4° C.), at room temperature (i.e.: 25 °C) and at high temperatures (namely: 45°C and 55°C) and, on the other hand, sensory properties which are entirely satisfactory, such as flexibility, a non-sticky effect, a non-greasy effect, a velvety feeling on the skin, a feeling of lightness after application, or a good glide.
Par conséquent, une composition cosmétique teintée d’écran solaire d’eau dans l’huile présentant un FPS élevé et une quantité élevée de pigments, afin de fournir un haut rendement de couverture de couleur lorsqu’elle est appliquée sur la peau, est souhaitée, qui soit stable, fournisse des propriétés sensorielles qui soient entièrement satisfaisantes et ne présente pas de migration et de séparation des pigments et de la silicone sur la surface de la composition.Therefore, a tinted water-in-oil sunscreen cosmetic composition having a high SPF and a high amount of pigments, in order to provide high color coverage performance when applied to the skin, is desired. , which is stable, provides sensory properties which are entirely satisfactory and does not show migration and separation of pigments and silicone on the surface of the composition.
Les inventeurs de la présente invention sont parvenus avec étonnement à mettre au point une composition cosmétique teintée d’écran solaire d’eau dans l’huile présentant un FPS élevé, présentant un équilibre satisfaisant entre protection UVA et UVB et comportant des quantités élevées de pigments, fournissant un effet couvrant élevé similaire à un maquillage sur la peau, tout en conservant de bons attributs sensoriels et une stabilité.The inventors of the present invention succeeded with astonishment in developing a cosmetic composition tinted with water-in-oil sunscreen having a high SPF, having a satisfactory balance between UVA and UVB protection and comprising high amounts of pigments , providing a high coverage effect similar to makeup on the skin, while maintaining good sensory attributes and stability.
La présente invention porte sur de nouvelles compositions cosmétiques d’écran solaire d’eau dans l’huile, en particulier pour les soins, pour le maquillage et pour la photoprotection de la peau comprenant (a) au moins un pigment, (b) au moins un filtre UV, (c) de la diméthicone, et (d) de l’eau, dans lesquelles le rapport pondéral entre l’eau et la diméthicone est spécifié. La présente invention porte également sur l’utilisation d’une composition cosmétique d’écran solaire d’eau dans l’huile et sur un procédé pour fabriquer une composition cosmétique d’écran solaire d’eau dans l’huile.The present invention relates to new cosmetic water-in-oil sunscreen compositions, in particular for care, for make-up and for photoprotection of the skin, comprising (a) at least one pigment, (b) at least one UV filter, (c) dimethicone, and (d) water, in which the weight ratio between water and dimethicone is specified. The present invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic water-in-oil sunscreen composition and to a process for making a cosmetic water-in-oil sunscreen composition.
D’autres éléments caractéristiques et avantages de la présente invention apparaîtront évidents à partir de la description plus détaillée suivante des modes de réalisation souhaitables qui illustre, à titre d’exemple, les principes de l’invention.Other features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following more detailed description of desirable embodiments which illustrates, by way of example, the principles of the invention.
Claims (9)
(a) de 10,0 à 25,0 % en poids, sur la base du poids total de la composition, d’au moins un pigment ;
(b) de 15,0 à 35,0 % en poids, sur la base du poids total de la composition, d’au moins un filtre UV ;
(c) de 8,0 à 20,0 % en poids, sur la base du poids total de la composition, de diméthicone ; et
(d) de l’eau
dans laquelle le rapport pondéral entre l’eau et la diméthicone se situe dans une plage de 1:0,30 à 1:0,55.Cosmetic water-in-oil sunscreen composition, in particular for care, for make-up and for photoprotection of the skin, comprising:
(a) from 10.0 to 25.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one pigment;
(b) from 15.0 to 35.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one UV screening agent;
(c) from 8.0 to 20.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of dimethicone; and
(d) water
wherein the weight ratio of water to dimethicone is within a range of 1:0.30 to 1:0.55.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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PCT/BR2021/050045 WO2022160020A1 (en) | 2021-01-29 | 2021-01-29 | Water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition, use of a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition, and process for manufacturing a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition |
WOPCT/BR2021/050045 | 2021-01-29 |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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FR3119316A1 true FR3119316A1 (en) | 2022-08-05 |
FR3119316B1 FR3119316B1 (en) | 2025-05-30 |
Family
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Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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FR2103498A Active FR3119316B1 (en) | 2021-01-29 | 2021-04-06 | WATER-IN-OIL SUNSCREEN COSMETIC COMPOSITION, USE OF WATER-IN-OIL SUNSCREEN COSMETIC COMPOSITION, AND METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING WATER-IN-OIL SUNSCREEN COSMETIC COMPOSITION |
Country Status (5)
Country | Link |
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EP (1) | EP4284320A1 (en) |
JP (1) | JP2024504488A (en) |
CN (1) | CN116829119A (en) |
FR (1) | FR3119316B1 (en) |
WO (1) | WO2022160020A1 (en) |
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WO2025142549A1 (en) * | 2023-12-28 | 2025-07-03 | 株式会社資生堂 | Water-in-oil emulsion composition |
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FR3119316B1 (en) | 2025-05-30 |
WO2022160020A1 (en) | 2022-08-04 |
CN116829119A (en) | 2023-09-29 |
JP2024504488A (en) | 2024-01-31 |
EP4284320A1 (en) | 2023-12-06 |
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