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FR3122087A1 - Cosmetic sunscreen composition, use of cosmetic sunscreen composition, and process for making cosmetic sunscreen composition - Google Patents

Cosmetic sunscreen composition, use of cosmetic sunscreen composition, and process for making cosmetic sunscreen composition Download PDF

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Publication number
FR3122087A1
FR3122087A1 FR2107541A FR2107541A FR3122087A1 FR 3122087 A1 FR3122087 A1 FR 3122087A1 FR 2107541 A FR2107541 A FR 2107541A FR 2107541 A FR2107541 A FR 2107541A FR 3122087 A1 FR3122087 A1 FR 3122087A1
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composition
weight
total weight
cosmetic sunscreen
sunscreen composition
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FR2107541A
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French (fr)
Inventor
Livia FERREIRA
Carlos Granados Contreras
Pedro Tupinamba WERNECK BARROSO
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/062Oil-in-water emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/362Polycarboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52Stabilizers

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

Composition d’écran solaire cosmétique, utilisation d’une composition d’écran solaire cosmétique, et processus de fabrication d’une composition d’écran solaire cosmétique La présente invention concerne de nouvelles compositions d’écran solaire cosmétiques comprenant (a) un silylate de silice ; (b) un agent suspenseur choisi parmi l’acide polyhydroxystéarique, ou un mélange d’acide polyhydroxystéarique et de diéthylhexanoate de néopentylglycol ; et (c) au moins un filtre UV. La présente invention concerne également l’utilisation d’une composition d’écran solaire cosmétique, et un processus de fabrication d’une composition d’écran solaire cosmétique. Figure pour l'abrégé : 3 Cosmetic sunscreen composition, use of cosmetic sunscreen composition, and process for making cosmetic sunscreen composition The present invention relates to novel cosmetic sunscreen compositions comprising (a) a silica silylate; (b) a suspending agent selected from polyhydroxystearic acid, or a mixture of polyhydroxystearic acid and neopentylglycol diethylhexanoate; and (c) at least one UV filter. The present invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic sunscreen composition, and a process for manufacturing a cosmetic sunscreen composition. Figure for abstract: 3

Description

Composition d’écran solaire cosmétique, utilisation d’une composition d’écran solaire cosmétique, et processus de fabrication d’une composition d’écran solaire cosmétiqueCosmetic sunscreen composition, use of cosmetic sunscreen composition, and process for making cosmetic sunscreen composition

DOMAINE DE L’INVENTIONFIELD OF THE INVENTION

La présente invention concerne une nouvelle composition d’écran solaire cosmétique comprenant (a) un silylate de silice ; (b) un agent suspenseur choisi parmi l’acide polyhydroxystéarique, ou un mélange d’acide polyhydroxystéarique et de diéthylhexanoate de néopentylglycol, et (c) au moins un filtre UV. La présente invention concerne également l’utilisation d’une composition d’écran solaire cosmétique, et un processus de fabrication d’une composition d’écran solaire cosmétique.The present invention relates to a novel cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising (a) a silica silylate; (b) a suspending agent chosen from polyhydroxystearic acid, or a mixture of polyhydroxystearic acid and neopentylglycol diethylhexanoate, and (c) at least one UV filter. The present invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic sunscreen composition, and a process for manufacturing a cosmetic sunscreen composition.

contexte de l’inventionbackground of the invention

La photoprotection des matières kératineuses, incluant à la fois la peau et les cheveux, est considérée comme très importante afin de les protéger contre les dommages causés par le soleil, les coups de soleil, le photovieillissement, ainsi que pour diminuer les risques de développement de cancers de la peau causés par l’exposition aux rayons ultraviolets (« UV »). Il existe typiquement deux types de compositions d’écran solaire cosmétiques UVA/UVB utilisées pour assurer une photoprotection, à savoir les filtres UV inorganiques et les filtres UV organiques.The photoprotection of keratinous materials, including both skin and hair, is considered very important in order to protect them against damage caused by the sun, sunburn, photoaging, as well as to reduce the risk of development of skin cancers caused by exposure to ultraviolet (“UV”) rays. There are typically two types of UVA/UVB cosmetic sunscreen compositions used to provide photoprotection, namely inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters.

Le degré de protection UV offert par une composition d’écran solaire cosmétique est directement lié à la quantité et au type de filtres UV qu’elle contient. En particulier, les compositions d’écran solaire cosmétiques doivent fournir une bonne protection contre les rayons du soleil, dont une mesure est la valeur de l’indice de protection (IP), un équilibre souhaitable entre la protection UVA et UVB, en particulier un indice de protection UVA minimum, tout en ayant une perception sensorielle satisfaisante, telle qu’une sensation lisse mais non grasse à l’application.The degree of UV protection offered by a cosmetic sunscreen composition is directly related to the amount and type of UV filters it contains. In particular, cosmetic sunscreen compositions should provide good protection against the sun's rays, one measure of which is the protection factor (SPI) value, a desirable balance between UVA and UVB protection, in particular a minimum UVA protection index, while having a satisfactory sensory perception, such as a smooth but non-greasy feeling on application.

Cependant, cette combinaison de propriétés est difficile à obtenir, notamment parce que de nombreux composés actifs solaires ont eux-mêmes une sensation huileuse ou grasse, et que l’augmentation de leur teneur tend à provoquer le même effet chez le produit final.However, this combination of properties is difficult to achieve, not least because many sunscreen active compounds have an oily or greasy feel themselves, and increasing their content tends to cause the same effect in the final product.

En outre, la plupart des filtres solaires organiques sont des matériaux huileux et/ou solubles dans l’huile. Des niveaux élevés de filtres solaires dans les produits solaires rendent les produits moins attrayants en raison de leur sensation de peau grasse, de leur caractère collant et de leur long temps de séchage.Also, most organic sunscreens are oily and/or oil-soluble materials. High levels of sun filters in sunscreen products make the products less appealing due to their oily skin feel, stickiness and long drying time.

Dans ce sens, un ingrédient cosmétique utilisé pour aider à contrôler le caractère gras de la matière kératineuse après l’application de la composition d’écran solaire cosmétique, et pour fournir un effet mat, est le silylate de silice.In this sense, a cosmetic ingredient used to help control the oiliness of the keratinous material after the application of the cosmetic sunscreen composition, and to provide a matte effect, is silica silylate.

Néanmoins, un problème supplémentaire des compositions d’écran solaire cosmétiques avec cet ingrédient est que de fortes concentrations de silylate de silice ont tendance à se repousser et à s’agglomérer dans les émulsions, en particulier dans les émulsions huile dans l’eau en raison de la présence d’eau sur la phase externe, ce qui entraîne une composition d’écran solaire cosmétique instable.However, an additional problem with cosmetic sunscreen compositions with this ingredient is that high concentrations of silica silylate tend to repel and clump together in emulsions, especially in oil-in-water emulsions due to the presence of water on the external phase, which leads to an unstable cosmetic sunscreen composition.

Par conséquent, il existe un besoin pour de nouvelles compositions d’écran solaire cosmétiques avec un IP élevé et une quantité plus élevée de silylate de silice, qui ne sont pas lourdes sur la peau et qui sont capables de contrôler la teneur en huile de la peau après leur application, laissant la peau avec une finition mate, qui est stable.Therefore, there is a need for new cosmetic sunscreen compositions with a high SPF and a higher amount of silica silylate, which are not heavy on the skin and which are able to control the oil content of the skin. skin after their application, leaving the skin with a matte finish, which is stable.

Cela dit, l’objectif de la présente invention est de fournir une composition d’écran solaire cosmétique stable avec des quantités plus élevées de silylate de silice dans une émulsion, en particulier une émulsion huile-dans-eau.That said, the object of the present invention is to provide a stable cosmetic sunscreen composition with higher amounts of silica silylate in an emulsion, particularly an oil-in-water emulsion.

Les inventeurs de la présente demande ont réussi de manière étonnante à développer une telle nouvelle composition d’écran solaire cosmétique en utilisant un agent suspenseur choisi parmi l’acide polyhydroxystéarique, ou un mélange d’acide polyhydroxystéarique et de diéthylhexanoate de néopentylglycol.The inventors of the present application have surprisingly succeeded in developing such a new cosmetic sunscreen composition using a suspending agent chosen from polyhydroxystearic acid, or a mixture of polyhydroxystearic acid and neopentylglycol diethylhexanoate.

La présente invention concerne de nouvelles compositions d’écran solaire cosmétiques comprenant (a) un silylate de silice ; (b) un agent suspenseur choisi parmi l’acide polyhydroxystéarique, ou un mélange d’acide polyhydroxystéarique et de diéthylhexanoate de néopentylglycol ; et (c) au moins un filtre UV. La présente invention concerne également l’utilisation d’une composition d’écran solaire cosmétique, et un processus de fabrication d’une composition d’écran solaire cosmétique.The present invention relates to novel cosmetic sunscreen compositions comprising (a) a silica silylate; (b) a suspending agent selected from polyhydroxystearic acid, or a mixture of polyhydroxystearic acid and neopentylglycol diethylhexanoate; and (c) at least one UV filter. The present invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic sunscreen composition, and a process for manufacturing a cosmetic sunscreen composition.

D’autres particularités et avantages de la présente invention ressortiront de la description plus détaillée suivante des modes de réalisation souhaitables qui illustre, à titre d’exemple, les principes de l’invention.Other features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following more detailed description of desirable embodiments which illustrates, by way of example, the principles of the invention.

La représente des microscopies en lumière polarisée d’une formule stable - essai de l’exemple 6. The represents polarized light microscopy of a stable formula - test of example 6.

La concerne des microscopies en lumière polarisée d’une formule instable - essai de l’exemple 6. The relates to microscopies in polarized light of an unstable formula - test of example 6.

La concerne les résultats de la double approche de l’indice de protection (IP) - essaiin vitrode l’exemple 8. The relates to the results of the double approach of the index of protection (IP) - in vitro test of example 8.

Claims (10)

Composition d’écran solaire cosmétique comprenant :
(a) de 0,1 à 2,5 % en poids, sur la base du poids total de la composition, de silylate de silice ;
(b) de 0,3 à 5,0 % en poids, sur la base du poids total de la composition, d’un agent suspenseur choisi parmi l’acide polyhydroxystéarique, ou un mélange d’acide polyhydroxystéarique et de diéthylhexanoate de néopentylglycol ;
(c) de 15,0 à 35,0 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, d’au moins un filtre UV ;
dans laquelle l’indice de protection (IP) va de 30 à 90.
Cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising:
(a) from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of silica silylate;
(b) from 0.3 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of a suspending agent selected from polyhydroxystearic acid, or a mixture of polyhydroxystearic acid and neopentylglycol diethylhexanoate;
(c) from 15.0 to 35.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one UV screening agent;
in which the protection index (IP) ranges from 30 to 90.
Composition, selon la revendication 1, dans laquelle le silylate de silice va de 0,1 à 1,0 % en poids, incluant toutes les plages et sous plages intermédiaires, sur la base du poids total de la composition.A composition according to claim 1 wherein the silica silylate ranges from 0.1 to 1.0% by weight, including all ranges and subranges in between, based on the total weight of the composition. Composition, selon la revendication 1, dans laquelle l’agent suspenseur est l’acide polyhydroxystéarique.A composition according to claim 1 wherein the suspending agent is polyhydroxystearic acid. Composition, selon la revendication 3, dans laquelle l’agent suspenseur va de 0,5 à 1,0 % en poids, incluant toutes les plages et sous plages intermédiaires, sur la base du poids total de la composition.A composition according to claim 3, wherein the suspending agent is from 0.5 to 1.0% by weight, including all ranges and subranges in between, based on the total weight of the composition. Composition, selon la revendication 1, dans laquelle l’agent suspenseur est un mélange d’acide polyhydroxystéarique et de diéthylhexanoate de néopentylglycol, dans un rapport de 0,8:0,2.Composition according to Claim 1, in which the suspending agent is a mixture of polyhydroxystearic acid and neopentylglycol diethylhexanoate, in a ratio of 0.8:0.2. Composition, selon la revendication 1, dans laquelle l’agent suspenseur va de 0,6 à 2 % en poids, incluant toutes les plages et sous-plages intermédiaires, sur la base du poids total de la composition.A composition according to claim 1 wherein the suspending agent is from 0.6 to 2% by weight, including all ranges and subranges in between, based on the total weight of the composition. Composition, selon la revendication 1, dans laquelle au moins un filtre UV est choisi parmi la bis-éthylhexyloxyphénol méthoxyphényl triazine, l’acide téréphtalylidène dicamphre sulfonique, le drométrizole trisiloxane, le butyl méthoxydibenzoylméthane, le salicylate d’éthylhexyle, l’éthylhexyl triazone, l’acide phénylbenzimidazole sulfonique et leurs mélanges.Composition according to Claim 1, in which at least one UV screening agent is chosen from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, terephthalylidene dicamphre sulphonic acid, drometrizole trisiloxane, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid and mixtures thereof. Composition, selon la revendication 1, qui comprend en outre des ingrédients cosmétiquement acceptables choisis parmi les composés actifs, les composés gras, les charges, les parfums, les polymères, les solvants, les vitamines, les agents de conservation, les tensioactifs et leurs mélanges.Composition, according to claim 1, which further comprises cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from active compounds, fatty compounds, fillers, fragrances, polymers, solvents, vitamins, preservatives, surfactants and mixtures thereof. . Utilisation d’une composition d’écran solaire cosmétique, comprenant :
(a) de 0,1 à 2,5 % en poids, sur la base du poids total de la composition, de silylate de silice ;
(b) de 0,3 à 5,0 % en poids, sur la base du poids total de la composition, d’un agent suspenseur choisi parmi l’acide polyhydroxystéarique, ou un mélange d’acide polyhydroxystéarique et de diéthylhexanoate de néopentylglycol ;
(c) de 15,0 à 25,0 % en poids sur la base du poids total de la composition, d’au moins un filtre UV ;
dans laquelle ladite utilisation est destinée à la fabrication d’un produit quotidien pour la photoprotection des matières kératineuses.
Use of a cosmetic sunscreen composition, comprising:
(a) from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of silica silylate;
(b) from 0.3 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of a suspending agent selected from polyhydroxystearic acid, or a mixture of polyhydroxystearic acid and neopentylglycol diethylhexanoate;
(c) from 15.0 to 25.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one UV screening agent;
in which said use is intended for the manufacture of a daily product for the photoprotection of keratinous materials.
Procédé de fabrication d’une composition d’écran solaire cosmétique, comprenant :
(a) de 0,1 à 2,5 % en poids, sur la base du poids total de la composition, de silylate de silice ;
(b) de 0,3 à 5,0 % en poids, sur la base du poids total de la composition, d’un agent suspenseur choisi parmi l’acide polyhydroxystéarique, ou un mélange d’acide polyhydroxystéarique et de diéthylhexanoate de néopentylglycol ;
(c) de 15,0 à 25,0 % en poids sur la base du poids total de la composition, d’au moins un filtre UV ;
dans lequel le processus comprend les étapes suivantes :
Étape (A) : Phase aqueuse chaude comprenant des matières premières aqueuses dans une plage de températures d’environ 60 à 70 °C ;
Étape (B) : phase huileuse chaude comprenant des matières premières huileuses, des polymères, des conservateurs, des vitamines et un émulsifiant dans une plage de températures allant de 75 °C à 80 °C ;
Étape (C) : la phase huileuse de l’étape (B) est ajoutée à la phase aqueuse de l’étape (A), puis le mélange est effectué ;
Étape (D) : les charges sont progressivement ajoutées au mélange obtenu à l’étape (C) et mélangées jusqu’à homogénéité, à une température inférieure à 30 °C ;
Étape (E) : un alcool est ajouté.
A method of making a cosmetic sunscreen composition, comprising:
(a) from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of silica silylate;
(b) from 0.3 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of a suspending agent selected from polyhydroxystearic acid, or a mixture of polyhydroxystearic acid and neopentylglycol diethylhexanoate;
(c) from 15.0 to 25.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one UV screening agent;
wherein the process includes the following steps:
Step (A): Hot aqueous phase comprising aqueous raw materials in a temperature range of about 60 to 70°C;
Stage (B): hot oily phase comprising oily raw materials, polymers, preservatives, vitamins and an emulsifier in a temperature range from 75°C to 80°C;
Stage (C): the oily phase of stage (B) is added to the aqueous phase of stage (A), then the mixture is carried out;
Step (D): the fillers are gradually added to the mixture obtained in step (C) and mixed until homogeneous, at a temperature below 30° C.;
Step (E): an alcohol is added.
FR2107541A 2021-04-23 2021-07-12 Cosmetic sunscreen composition, use of cosmetic sunscreen composition, and process for making cosmetic sunscreen composition Pending FR3122087A1 (en)

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IBPCT/BR2021/050169 2021-04-23
PCT/BR2021/050169 WO2022221930A1 (en) 2021-04-23 2021-04-23 Cosmetic sunscreen composition, use of a cosmetic sunscreen composition, and process for manufacturing a cosmetic sunscreen composition

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