FR3083117A1 - COMPOSITION COMPRISING A SILICONE ELASTOMER AND AN ALKYLPOLYGLYCOSIDE - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer, and b) at least one alkylpolyglucoside, the alkyl chain of which comprises at least 19 carbon atoms.

Description

Composition comprising a silicone elastomer and an alkylpolyglycoside

The present invention relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising a silicone elastomer and a specific alkylpolyglycoside, a process for the preparation of such a composition, as well as the uses of this composition.

Sebum is a hydrating agent for the epidermis. The shine of the skin, generally linked to an important secretion of sebum, is a problem mainly affecting adolescents, but which can also appear in adulthood under the effect in particular of a hyperproduction of androgens or external factors such as pollution. The shine of the skin can also be linked to sweat, resulting from physical activity or climatic conditions. Finally, the shine of the skin may be due to the association of the two phenomena (sebum and sweat). Oily, shiny or shiny skin is generally hyperseborrheic skin, characterized by exaggerated sebum secretion and excretion generally leading to a sebum level greater than 200 pg / cm ² measured at the forehead.

Obtaining a matte effect on the skin is highly sought after by users of combination or oily skin, as well as for cosmetic compositions intended for use in hot and humid climates. The reflections caused by an excess of sebum on the surface of the skin are in fact generally considered to be unsightly. The overproduction of sebum, in addition to shiny or shiny skin, can lead to aesthetic discomfort, such as inhomogeneity of the skin complexion, an increase in the size of the follicular orifices or dilated pores and / or an irregular appearance of the relief of the skin.

Shiny or shiny skin also generally results in poorer makeup performance, which therefore tends to deteriorate during the day.

It is known from the prior art to use fillers, such as talc, starch, mica, silica, nylon powders, polyethylene powders, polybeta-alanine or poly powders (methyl) methyl acrylate, to obtain a matte effect on the skin which compensates for the shine of the latter. However, these fillers can cause discomfort, especially lint on the skin and / or a perception of non-clean skin, and can prove to be drying in the long term and generally have a matte effect which is not very durable over time. In addition, the fillers considerably reduce the comfort of the skin, and bring tarnish to the face.

There therefore remains the need for matifying compositions for keratin materials and more particularly for the skin, in particular oily and / or shiny skin, having good cosmetic properties, and in particular capable of providing an effective, immediate matifying effect, and durable over time, while retaining the sensoriality and radiance of the skin.

The Applicant has discovered that this need could be satisfied by combining in a physiologically acceptable medium at least one specific nonionic surfactant with at least one silicone elastomer. Such a composition preferably does not include a filler. The application of such a composition leads to good optical performance (dullness and resistance to dullness, and soft focus effect), while retaining the sensoriality and radiance of the skin.

Such a composition also makes it possible to improve the dullness of keratin materials, and preferably of the skin, in a persistent manner. The keratin materials thus remain durably matified, even when they are repeatedly exposed to sweat or sebum secretions.

The present invention therefore relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

a) at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer, and

b) at least one alkylpolyglucoside, the alkyl chain of which comprises at least 19 carbon atoms.

The present invention also relates to the use, in particular cosmetic, of a composition according to the invention for matifying keratin materials, in particular the skin.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising topical application to said keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.

The composition according to the invention can be cosmetic and / or dermatological, preferably cosmetic.

The composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin and / or its integuments. It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say one which has a pleasant color, odor and touch and does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), liable to divert the consumer to use this composition.

The composition according to the invention being an oil-in-water emulsion, it comprises an oily phase dispersed within a continuous aqueous phase.

The constituents of the composition according to the invention are now described in more detail.

Silicone elastomer (orqanopolysiloxane elastomer)

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer. This elastomer is present in the oily (i.e. dispersed) phase of the oil-in-water emulsion.

By "organopolysiloxane elastomer" or "silicone elastomer" is meant a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is able to regain its original shape after stretching.

It is more particularly a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer.

Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane having ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl endings and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl endings and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, in particular in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam.

Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon , in particular in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst, as for example described in the application EP-A-295886.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane and crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).

Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms linked to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule. The compound (A) can have any molecular structure, in particular a linear chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.

The compound (A) can have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranged from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with the compound (B).

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) can be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

Compound (A) can thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes with trimethylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy endings, cyclic dimethylsiloxanemethylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers.

Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group can be chosen from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups can be located in any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. Organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched chain, straight chain, cyclic or network structure, but the straight chain structure is preferred. Compound (B) can have a viscosity ranging from a liquid state to a gum state. Preferably, the compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 ° C.

In addition to the abovementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groups linked to the silicon atoms in the compound (B) can be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

The organopolysiloxane (B) can be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, the methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxanes, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers terminated dimethylvinylsiloxy groups, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers terminated dimethylpolysiloxanes, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers trimethylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxanemethylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy endings, methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) polysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy endings, and dimethylsiloxanemethyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyloxyethyl) siloxane copolymers.

In particular, the elastomeric organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reacting dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy endings and methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy endings, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms linked to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 5.

It is advantageous for the compound (A) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the compound (A) and the total amount of all the groups to be ethylenic unsaturation in compound (B) is in the range of 1.5 / 1 to 20/1.

Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, black platinum, and platinum on support.

The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal for 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A) and B).

The organopolysiloxane elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.

The term "non-emulsifying" defines elastomers of organopolysiloxane not containing a hydrophilic chain, and in particular not containing polyoxyalkylene units (in particular polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene), or of polyglyceryl unit. Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer devoid of polyoxyalkylene units and of polyglyceryl unit.

In particular, the silicone elastomer used in the present invention is chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name) .

The particles of organopolysiloxane elastomers can be conveyed in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.

Non-emulsifying elastomers are notably described in patents EP 242,219, EP 285,886, EP 765,656 and in application JP-A-61-194009. The silicone elastomer is generally in the form of a gel, a paste or a powder but advantageously in the form of a gel in which the silicone elastomer is dispersed in a linear silicone oil (dimethicone ) or cyclic (ex cyclopentasiloxane), advantageously in a linear silicone oil.

As non-emulsifying elastomers, use may more particularly be made of those sold under the names "KSG-6", "KSG-15 >>," KSG-16 >>, "KSG-18 >>," KSG-41 >>, " KSG-42 >>, "KSG-43 >>," KSG-44 >>, by the company Shin Etsu, "DC EL-9040 >>," DC9041 >>, by the company Dow Corning, "SFE 839 >> by General Electric.

According to a particular embodiment, a silicone elastomer gel dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenylmethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, and cyclomethicone, is used. preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 500 and at 25 ° C, optionally modified by aliphatic groups, optionally fluorinated, or by functional groups such as hydroxyl groups , thiols and / or amines.

Mention may in particular be made of the following INCI name compounds:

Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "USG-105 >> and" USG-107A >> from Shin Etsu; "DC9506 >> and" DC9701 >> from the company Dow Corning, Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as "KSG-6 >> and" KSG-16 >> from the company Shin Etsu;

Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Cyclopentasiloxane, such as "KSG15";

Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC EL-9040", "DC9045 >> and" DC5930 >> from Dow Corning;

Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC EL-9041 >> from the company Dow Corning;

Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as “Dow Corning EL-9240® silicone elastomer blend >> from the company Dow Corning (mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene / polydimethysiloxane (2 cSt));

C4-24 Alkyl Dimethicone / DivinyIDimethicone Crosspolymer, such as NuLastic Silk MA by the company Alzo;

Polysilicone-11 and Cyclohexasiloxane such as Gransil RPS-D6® from the company Grant Industries (comprising 87% of Cyclohexasiloxane and 13% of Polysilicone-11), Polysilicone-11 and isododecane such as Gransil PC-12® from the company Grant Industries ( with a weight ratio of polysilicone-11: isododecane of 13:87).

As examples of silicone elastomers dispersed in a linear silicone oil which can advantageously be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the following references:

Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as "KSG-6 >> and" KSG-16 >> from Shin Etsu;

Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as “Dow Corning EL-9240® silicone elastomer blend >> from the company Dow Corning (mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene / polydimethysiloxane (2 cSt));

Polysilicone-11 and Cyclohexasiloxane such as Gransil RPS-D6® from the company Grant Industries (comprising 87% of Cyclohexasiloxane and 13% of Polysilicone-11).

The total amount in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention of silicone elastomer (s) represents an active material content of 0.1% to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.2% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.6% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 1.0% to 1.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Alkylpolyqlucoside (nonionic surfactant)

The compositions relating to the present invention comprise at least one alkylpolyglucoside (APG), the alkyl chain of which comprises at least 19 carbon atoms. This APG is a non-ionic surfactant. It has a linear and saturated hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 19 carbon atoms, and preferably from 19 to 26 and more preferably from 19 to 22 carbon atoms. This alkylpolyglycoside is present in the oily (i.e. dispersed) phase of the oil-in-water emulsion.

The alkylpolyglucoside generally has the following structure:

RO- (G) _X in which the radical R is a linear alkyl radical having at least 19 carbon atoms and preferably ranging from 19 to 26 and more preferably from 19 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a saccharide residue and x varies from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.05 to 2.5 and more preferably from 1.1 to 2.

The saccharide residue can be chosen from glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucane, cellulose or starch. More preferably, the saccharide residue denotes glucose.

It should also be noted that each unit of the polysaccharide part of the alkylpolyglycoside can be in isomeric form a or β, in L or D form and the configuration of the saccharide residue can be of the furanoside or pyranoside type.

It is of course possible to use mixtures of alkylpolyosides, which may differ from each other by the nature of the alkyl unit carried and / or the nature of the carrier polysaccharide chain.

Use will be made more particularly of C ₂ oC ₂₂ alkylpolyglucosides such as arachidylpolyglucoside and more particularly arachidylpolyglucoside.

Among the alkylpolyglucosides which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of arachidylpolyglucoside such as that present in the commercial product MONTANOV 202® of the company SEPPIC.

The alkylpolyglucoside is present in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 4% by weight, even more preferably from approximately 0.2% to approximately 1% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oily phase

In addition to the silicone elastomer and the alkylpolyglycoside, the oily phase can comprise at least one fatty alcohol and / or at least one oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

Fatty alcohols

The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one fatty alcohol. This fatty alcohol can be chosen from:

- a pure fatty alcohol comprising more than 16 carbon atoms; and

- a mixture of fatty alcohols having at least 16 carbon atoms and comprising at least 50% by weight of fatty alcohol (s) having at least 18 atoms.

We will more particularly choose mixtures of fatty alcohol (s) having at least 18 atoms.

The pure fatty alcohols according to the invention containing more than 16 carbon atoms preferably comprise from 18 to 26 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 22 carbon atoms.

Among the pure fatty alcohols in accordance with the invention containing more than 16 carbon atoms, there may be mentioned:

- stearyl alcohol such as the commercial product KALCOL 80-98® from KAO,

- arachidyl alcohol such as the commercial products HAINOL 20SS® from the company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO CO. LTD and NACOL 20-95® from SASOL GERMANY GMBH,

- behenyl alcohol such as the commercial products NACOL 22-97® and NACOL 2298® from the company SASOL GERMANY GMBH,

- and their mixtures.

The mixtures of fatty alcohols in accordance with the invention containing at least 16 carbon atoms preferably comprise from 16 to 26 carbon atoms and more preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. Preferably, they comprise at least 50% of fatty alcohol (s) comprising at least 18 carbon atoms and preferably from 50 to 100% and more preferably from 70 to 100% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of alcohols fat.

Among the mixtures of fatty alcohols in accordance with the invention containing at least 16 carbon atoms and at least 50% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of fatty alcohols, there may be mentioned:

a cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol) comprising at least 50% by weight of stearyl alcohol relative to the weight of the mixture of fatty alcohols such as the mixture comprising 70% by weight of alcohol (s ) Ci ₈ fatty and 30% by weight of Ci ₆ fatty alcohol (s) such as the commercial product NAFOL 1618 S® (SASOL GERMANY GMBH),

- mixtures based on at least one C ₂₂ fatty alcohol, at least one C ₂₀ fatty alcohol and at least one C ₈ fatty alcohol, or

- a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

Among the mixtures based on at least one C ₂₂ fatty alcohol, at least one C ₂₀ fatty alcohol and at least one C ₁₈ fatty alcohol, mention may be made of:

- the mixture comprising 77% by weight of C ₂₂ fatty alcohol (s), 18% by weight of C ₂₀ fatty alcohol (s) and 5% by weight of C ₁₈ fatty alcohol (s) such as the product NAFOL 1822 C ALCOHOL ® (SASOL GERMANY GMBH) or the LANETTE 22 ® commercial product (COGNIS CORPORATION, CARE CHEMICALS);

the mixture comprising 80% by weight of C ₂₂ fatty alcohol (s), 10% by weight of C ₂₀ fatty alcohol (s) and 10% by weight of Ci ₈ fatty alcohol (s) such as BEHENYL ALCOHOL 80 ® commercial product (KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO CO., LTD.);

the mixture comprising 44% by weight of C ₂₂ fatty alcohol (s), 11% by weight of C ₂₀ fatty alcohol (s) and 43% by weight of Ci ₈ fatty alcohol (s) such as commercial product NAFOL 1822 ALCOHOL ® (SASOL GERMANY GMBH); or

the mixture comprising 6% by weight of fatty alcohol (C) in C ₂₄ , 30% by weight% of fatty alcohol (s) in C ₂₂ , 58% in weight of fatty alcohol (s) in C ₂₀ and 7% by weight of Ci ₈ fatty alcohol (s) such as the commercial product NAFOL 20-22 EN (SASOL GERMANY GMBH).

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of alkylpolyglucoside and fatty alcohol, and preferably a mixture of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidylglucoside such as the commercial product MONTANOV 202® from the company SEPPIC.

The fatty alcohol / APG mixture preferably contains more than 50% by weight of fatty alcohol (s) and more preferably more than 70% by weight of fatty alcohol (s) relative to the total weight of said fatty alcohol / APG mixture .

Oils

The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one oil.

As oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, there may be mentioned for example:

- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

- hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or alternatively, for example sunflower, corn, soybean oils, squash, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, macaw, castor, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides like those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names "Miglyol 810", "812 >> and" 818 >> by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;

- C6-C18 acid carbonates such as dioctyl carbonate;

- synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which R1 represents the remainder of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyl stearate -dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisoketyl citrate; heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentylglycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parlameam oil; isododecane, isohexadecane;

- fatty alcohols having 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol;

- partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912;

- silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenyls; and

- their mixtures.

“Hydrocarbon oil” is understood to mean, in the list of oils cited above, any oil mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluorinated, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

The proportion of oil can range from 2 to 50% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, even more particularly from 7 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Other fatty substances

The other fatty substances which may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candellila wax, paraffin, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes or waxes by Fischer-Tropsch.

These fatty substances can be chosen in a variety of ways by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the properties, for example of desired consistency or texture.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one continuous aqueous phase.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and an organic solvent soluble in water, chosen for example from alkanols, linear or branched, C 2 -C 4, such as ethanol and l isopropanol, propanol, butanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, monomethyl ether propylene glycol, monoethyl ether, monomethyl ether of diethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

The composition generally comprises from 30 to 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of water-soluble organic solvents can range, for example, from 0 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, better from 1% to 15% by weight, even better from 2% at 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition comprises from 50% to 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight of water, preferably from 75% to 85% by weight of water.

Thickening

According to an advantageous embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises at least one thickener.

By thickener is meant a compound which introduced at 1% by weight into pure water and at pH 7 and at 25 ° C. has a viscosity greater than 11000 Pa.s.

The viscosity is measured in Pa.s for a shear value of 0.001 s-1 using a HAAKE Mars rheometer cone-plane geometry made of titanium-sanded 35mm in diameter with an angle of 2 °. The measurements are taken again under constraint imposed on the balance.

The thickeners according to the invention can be of natural or synthetic origin, mineral or organic.

The thickeners can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic polymers, associative or not.

Depending on the fluidity of the composition that it is desired to obtain, one or more thickeners and / or gelling agents, in particular hydrophilic, that is to say soluble or dispersible in water, can be incorporated into the composition. As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may, for example, be made of carboxyvinyl polymers, modified or not, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (name CTFA: carbomer) and Pemulen (name CTFA: Acrylates / C 10-30 akyl acrylate crosspolymer) by the company Goodrich, polyacrylamides, polymers and copolymers of 2acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS), optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as the poly (2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) sold by the company Hoechst under the name " Hostacerin AMPS >> (CTFA name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide), or under the name SIMULGEL 800 by SEPPIC (CTFA name: Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate), crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, in the form of a W / O emulsion, such as those marketed under the name of SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) or under the name of SIMULGEL 600 (name C.T.F.A. : Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC, polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, alginates, modified celluloses, and mixtures thereof. The amount of gelling agents depends on the aim sought.

The mineral thickeners can be chosen from clays, optionally modified, silicas, optionally modified, or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the mineral thickeners are chosen from lipophilic clays, in particular modified hectorites; hydrophobic treated fumed silica; hydrophobic silica aerogels, or mixtures thereof.

The thickeners according to the invention may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and very preferably ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may be a composition for caring for, cleaning or making up the skin of the body or the face, in particular a composition for caring for.

The skin care composition may for example be a cream, a gel or a fluid for the face.

The composition according to the present invention can also contain various adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetic field, such as fillers; preservatives; sequestrants; dyes; perfumes ; pH agents.

Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition. .

The filler is in particular a mattifying filler, and can be chosen from talc, starch, mica, silica, nylon powders, polyethylene powders, polybeta-alanine, poly (meth) acrylate powders. methyl and polyamides.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of filler. By “substantially free” is meant that the composition comprises less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight of fillers relative to the total composition weight.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is completely free of filler.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up the skin, comprising the topical application to the skin of the composition according to the invention.

Finally, the invention also relates to the use, in particular cosmetic, of a composition according to the invention for matifying keratin materials, in particular the skin.

The invention will now be illustrated by the following nonlimiting examples. In these examples, unless otherwise stated, the amounts are indicated as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compounds are, as the case may be, given chemical names or CTFA (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook) names.

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Mattifying and dullness performance of a composition according to the invention

The compositions A to C below were prepared as follows:

For composition A:

• Mix phase A with phase B with Rayneri stirring o Leave to stir for approximately 10 minutes • Add phase C o Leave to stir for approximately 10 minutes • Add phases D, then E and F • Homogenize then stop the preparation.

For compositions B and C:

• Bring each of phases A and B to around 90 ° C, until the ingredients are dissolved. • Emulsification around 80 ° C:

o With a Moritz agitator, introduce phase A into phase B by increasing the agitation o Leave to agitate for approximately 10 minutes o Cool with Rayneri agitation and add phase C at a temperature below 45 ° C o Homogenize for a few minutes o Incorporate the remaining phases o Homogenize then stop the preparation.

Composition C is according to the invention; the A and B are comparative.

The immediate shine after drying and the resistance to dullness are evaluated by an "in vitro dullness test". This test consists in measuring the gloss of the dry film of a composition, spread on a contrast card, after 24 hours of drying at 37 ° C. (intrinsic gloss of the film) and after three sprays of an artificial solution of sebum and sweat. (held at dullness). The gloss is measured by a 60 ° gloss meter and the values are given in gloss units (BU).

Thus, the higher the BU, the brighter the composition.

The three compositions are evaluated, and the results are shown in the table below:

Phase AT (comparative) INCI US B AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE (HOSTACERIN AMPS from Clariant) 1 D BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-1 (FUCOGEL 1,5P from Solabia) 2 VS Dimethicone (XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 10CS from the company Toray) 7 VS Dimethicone (XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 5CS from Dow Corning) 4 F DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (KSG16 by Shin Etsu) 2 VS PEG-12 DIMETHICONE 0.7 E Ethanol 8 AT Water 66.3 AT GLYCERIN 7 AT PROPYLENE GLYCOL 2 Immediate BU 48.2 UB after 1 spray 42.5

Phase B (comparative) VS (invention) INCI US D Conservative qs qs

AT isohexadecane 6 6 VS SODIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE (and) POLYSORBATE 80 (and) SORBITAN OLEATE (SIMULGEL 800 from SEPPIC) 2 2 AT Dimethicone (XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 10CS from the company Toray) 6 6 AT DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (KSG16 by Shin Etsu) 1 B Water 82.5 81.5 AT ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE (Montanov 202 by Seppic) 3 3 Immediate BU 2.7 3 UB after 1 spray 5.4 4.2 BU after 2 sprays 21.6 4.4 BU after 3 sprays 41.3 6.1

The results show that the combination of alkylpolyglycoside and silicone elastomer according to the invention has the lowest values of BU on the third spraying; composition C according to the invention is thus more mattifying than compositions 5 and B.

Example 2: Soft Focus Performance of a Composition According to the Invention

The soft focus performance of compositions A to C of Example 1 is evaluated on the dry film spread on a transparent plastic support using the Hazeguard. The values of this measurement range from 0 to 100%, and the higher the higher the value, the more efficient the composition.

The results are in the table below:

AT (comparative) B (comparative) VS (invention) Soft focus 57.90% 82.50% 88.70%

They demonstrate that the combination of alkylpolyglycoside and silicone elastomer according to the invention has the highest soft focus performance.

conclusions:

The combination of alkylpolyglycoside and silicone elastomer according to the invention has superior intrinsic optical properties compared to each of the ingredients used separately.

Example 3: Mattifying and Dullness Performance of Compositions According to the Invention Comprising Different Silicone Elastomers

Formulas C (see Example 1) and 1 to 3 according to the invention, below, were prepared as described in Example 1. The amounts used of silicone elastomer 10 are 0.24% in active material. The immediate gloss after drying and the resistance to dullness are evaluated as described in Example 1.

Phase INCI US Formula C Formula 1 Formula 2 Formula 3 AT ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE 3 3 3 3 AT isohexadecane 6 6 6 6 AT Dimethicone 6 6 6 6 AT DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (KSG16 by Shin Etsu) 1 AT DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (and) DIMETHICONE (KSG6 by Shin Etsu) 0.4 AT POLYSILICON-11 (Gransil RPS-D6) 1.85 AT DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (Dow Corning EL-9240 silicone elastomer blend) 1.85 B Water 81.5 80.65 80.65 82.1 VS SODIUM polyacryloyldimethyl TAURATE (and) POLYSORBATE 80 (and) SORBITAN OLEATE (Simulgel 800 from SEPPIC) 2 2 2 2 D Conservative qs qs qs qs

Formula C Formula I Formula 2 Formula 3 Immediate BU 3 2.9 3.1 2.7 UB 1 spray 4.2 3.9 5.1 2.8 UB 2 sprays 4.4 4.4 6.4 7.3 UB 3 sprays 6.1 6.2 6.7 24.1

The results show that formulas C and 1 to 3 have comparable mattifying performance.

Example 4: Mattifying and dullness performance of a composition according to the invention compared to a comparative composition comprising cetearyl glucoside

Formula C (see Example 1) according to the invention and Comparative Formula C ’below were prepared as described in Example 1.

The immediate gloss after drying and the resistance to dullness are evaluated as described in Example 1.

INCI EU Composition C according to the invention Comparative C ’ Conservative qs qs isohexadecane 6 6 SODIUM polyacryloyldimethyl TAURATE (and) POLYSORBATE 80 (and) SORBITAN OLEATE (SIMULGEL 800 from the company SEPPIC) 2 2 Dimethicone 6 6 DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (KSG16 by Shin Etsu) 1 1 Water 81.5 81.5 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 3

(Montanov 68 from Seppic) ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE (Montanov 202 by Seppic) 3 Immediate BU 3 5.5 UB 1 spray 4.2 26 UB 2 sprays 4.4 38.5 UB 3 sprays 6.1 Not measured because very high value from the ^2nd spray

The results show that only composition C according to the invention exhibits good mattifying performance.

Claims (14)

1. Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer, and b) at least one alkylpolyglucoside, the alkyl chain of which comprises at least 19 carbon atoms. 2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the alkylpolyglycoside has a linear and saturated hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 19 carbon atoms, and preferably from 19 to 26 and more preferably from 19 to 22 carbon atoms. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the alkylpolyglucoside has the following structure: RO- (G) _X in which the radical R is a linear alkyl radical having at least 19 carbon atoms and preferably ranging from 19 to 26 and more preferably from 19 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a saccharide residue and x varies from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.05 to 2.5 and more preferably from 1.1 to 2. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkylpolyglucoside is arachidylpolyglucoside. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkylpolyglucoside is present in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 4% by weight, also more preferably from about 0.2% to about 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organopolysiloxane elastomer is crosslinked. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained: - By crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane having ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of platinum catalyst; - By dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl endings and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of an organotin; - by crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl endings and of a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; - by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, in particular in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or - by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups linked to silicon, in particular in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of platinum catalyst. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organopolysiloxane elastomer is a non-emulsifying elastomer, preferably is devoid of polyoxyalkylene units and of polyglyceryl unit. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organopolysiloxane elastomer is present in an active material content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.2% to 3% by weight , preferably from 0.6% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 1.0% to 1.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% in weight 5 of fillers relative to the total weight of composition, preferably is completely free of fillers. 13. Cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up the skin, comprising the topical application to the skin of a composition according to one of claims Previous 10. 14. Use, in particular cosmetic, of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 12 for matifying keratin materials, in particular the skin.