FR2964562A1 - Cosmetic product, useful in cosmetic process for caring keratin materials, comprises a composition comprising aqueous phase and fatty phase, and composition comprising a mixture of organopolysiloxane elastomer and silicone oil - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic product comprises at least a first and a second cosmetic composition, in a separate manner, where: the first composition A is in the form of emulsion comprising at least one aqueous phase and at least one fatty phase; the second composition B comprises a mixture of at least organopolysiloxane elastomer and at least one silicone oil; and the mixture is present at at least 60 wt.%. Independent claims are included for: (1) set for packaging and distributing compositions forming a product, comprising at least two compartments each comprising the compositions, which is adjusted to the distribution of two compositions separately or mixed; and (2) cosmetic process for caring keratin materials comprising applying, on keratin materials, at least one layer of a mixture comprising the first composition A and second composition B, where the mixture is obtained either extemporaneously before application to the keratin materials, or simultaneously to its application on the keratin materials.

Description

Cosmetic product comprising a silicone elastomer

The present application relates to a cosmetic product comprising two distinct compositions, one of the compositions being an emulsion and the other composition comprising a mixture of organopolysiloxane elastomer and silicone oil. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process consisting in applying to the keratin materials at least one layer of the mixture of said compositions.

For various reasons related in particular to a better comfort of use (softness, emollience and others), the current cosmetic compositions are most often in the form of an emulsion of the type oil-in-water (O / W) constituted an aqueous dispersant continuous phase and an oily disperse discontinuous phase or a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion consisting of an oily dispersant continuous phase and an aqueous dispersed discontinuous phase. O / W emulsions are the most requested in the cosmetic field because they comprise, as external phase, an aqueous phase, which gives them, when applied to the skin, a cooler, less greasy feel and more light as W / O emulsions. In these emulsions, the addition of fillers which is desired, for example to improve the feel and give a matifying effect on the skin or camouflage imperfections of the skin, may cause an impression of lack of comfort of the composition on the skin or even give a rough touch. To improve the touch properties of these emulsions, silicone elastomers can be used; these compounds provide softness and comfort to the application, but may be difficult to stabilize in the emulsion, which limits their incorporation into this type of composition, particularly at high levels. In addition, the chemical nature of the silicone elastomer imposes limits in the nature of the oils making up the oily phase: for reasons of feasibility and stability, it must contain mainly silicone oils and / or volatile oils that do not provide sufficient skin care effects, such as skin nutrition, and visible and felt effects, in particular because the oily phase consists essentially of volatile oils that do not remain on the skin and can not nourish the skin. skin.

There is therefore still a need for a composition in the form of an emulsion, in particular an O / W type emulsion, which does not have the drawbacks of the prior art, and in particular which is soft on application, which gives effects immediate cosmetics such as dullness and lessening of skin imperfections, while providing comfort and hydration.

The inventors have demonstrated that it is possible to obtain such a composition by using a cosmetic product containing a first composition in the form of an emulsion and a second composition comprising a mixture of silicone oil and silicone elastomer in one. high content.

More specifically, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic product comprising, separately from one another, at least a first and a second cosmetic composition and in which: the first composition A is in the form of emulsion comprising at least one aqueous phase and at least one fatty phase and the second composition B comprises a mixture of at least one elastomeric organopolysiloxane and at least one silicone oil, said mixture being present in a content of at least less than 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the first and second compositions are packaged separately one in the other, but joined in a single packaging assembly. According to another embodiment, the first and second compositions are packaged separately from one another in separate packaging units.

The product according to the present invention is particularly advantageous insofar as it makes it possible to combine the respective advantages of the conventional compositions while avoiding their respective defects.

The present invention further relates to a set of packaging and dispensing compositions forming a product according to the invention, said set comprising at least two independent compartments respectively comprising each of said compositions and being adjusted to the distribution of the two compositions so separated or mixed.

According to an alternative embodiment, the mixture of the compositions is carried out within said assembly just before use and therefore before application to at least one keratin material.

The first and second compositions each comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a non-toxic medium that can be applied to keratin materials of human beings, and that has a pleasant appearance, odor and feel. .

The subject of the invention is also a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, comprising applying to the keratin materials at least one layer of a mixture of: a first composition A in the form of an emulsion comprising at least one aqueous phase and at least one fatty phase and a second composition B comprises a mixture of at least one elastomeric organopolysiloxane and at least one silicone oil, said mixture being present in a content of at least 60% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the second composition, said mixture being obtained either extemporaneously before application to the keratin materials, or simultaneously with its application to keratin materials.

According to one embodiment, the compositions A and B are mixed extemporaneously and then the mixture is applied to the keratin materials.

This is why the subject of the invention is a cosmetic process for coating keratinous substances consisting of: a. extemporaneously mixing: at least one first composition A in the form of an emulsion comprising at least one aqueous phase and at least one fatty phase and at least one second composition B comprising a mixture of at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer and at least one silicone oil, said mixture being present in a content of at least 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition, b. to apply on said keratinous materials at least one layer of said mixture.

According to one variant, at least one layer of the composition A and at least one layer of the composition B is applied to the keratin materials, the mixture of the compositions A and B thus being applied during application to the keratin materials. This is why the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for coating keratin materials, comprising the application to keratin materials: a. at least one layer of a first composition A in the form of an emulsion comprising at least one aqueous phase and at least one fatty phase b. at least one layer of a second composition B comprising a mixture of at least one elastomeric organopolysiloxane and at least one silicone oil, said mixture being present in a content of at least 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition,

FIRST COMPOSITION A The first composition A is in the form of an emulsion comprising at least one aqueous phase and at least one fatty phase.

Aqueous Phase The aqueous phase of the first composition comprises at least water. According to the dosage form of the composition, the amount of aqueous phase can range from 0.1 to 99% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 98% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 95% by weight, and even more preferably from 40 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This amount depends on the dosage form of the desired composition. The amount of water may represent all or part of the aqueous phase, and it is generally at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase may comprise at least one hydrophilic solvent such as, for example, substantially linear or branched lower mono-alcohols having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol. ; polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols and their derivatives, and mixtures thereof. The fat phase of the composition B may range, for example, from 1 to 80% by weight, preferably from 2 to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. the composition.

This indicated amount does not include the content of lipophilic surfactants.

The nature of the oily phase (or oily phase) of the emulsion is not critical. The fatty phase can thus be constituted by all the fatty substances conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields, it comprises in particular at least one oil (fatty substance liquid at 25 ° C.).

As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas RaCOORb and RaORb in which Ra represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and Rb represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl stearate -2-dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; substantially linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® oil; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol; alkoxylated and especially ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as oleth-12, ceteareth-12 and ceteareth-20; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912. As fluorinated oils, mention may also be made of perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC PC1®" and "FLUTEC PC3®" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "Foralkyl®" by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane sold under the name "MSX 4518®" by the company 3M and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the company 3M; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a substantially linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups. fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes Fischer-Tropsch; Vaseline paste.

These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.

emulsifiers

The first composition according to the invention may comprise one or more emulsifying surfactants. The surfactants are generally present in composition A in a content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

For the W / O emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C" by the company Dow Corning, and the alkyl-dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Corning and cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name ABIL EM 90R by the company Goldschmidt, or the mixture polyglyceryl-4 isostearate / cetyl dimethicone copolyol / hexyllaurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09 by the company Goldschmidt. One or more co-emulsifiers can also be added. Advantageously, the co-emulsifier may be chosen from the group comprising the alkylated polyol esters. As alkylated esters of polyol, mention may in particular be made of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters and for example polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by ICI, sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.

For the O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic surfactants, and in particular saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acid and polyol esters containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. at 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say containing oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene units, such as esters of glyceryl and of C 8 -C 24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of polyethylene glycol and of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sorbitol and of C8-C24 fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

As glyceryl ester and fatty acid, there may be mentioned glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and / or glyceryl tri-stearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of polyethylene glycol and fatty acid esters that may be mentioned include polyethylene glycol stearate (mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate of polyethylene glycol), and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name). PEG-50 stearate), polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate and mixtures thereof.

It is also possible to use mixtures of these surfactants, for example the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by the company Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-distearate). ) and potassium stearate, sold under the name TEGIN by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).

As fatty alcohol ethers, mention may be made, for example, of ethers of polyethylene glycol and of fatty alcohol containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and especially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as ethers of polyethylene glycol and of Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols). Mention may be made, for example, of ethers containing from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylenated groups, such as those of CTFA name Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof.

In known manner, the first composition for topical application of the invention may also contain one or more adjuvants usual in the cosmetic or dermatological field. As adjuvants, gelling agents, active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, perfumes, solvents, salts, fillers, sunscreens (= UV filters), dyestuffs, basic agents (triethanolamine, diethanolamine, sodium hydroxide) or acids (citric acid), and also lipid vesicles or any other type of vector (nanocapsules, microcapsules, etc.), and mixtures thereof. These adjuvants are used in the usual proportions in the cosmetics field, and for example from 0.01 to 30% of the total weight of the composition, and they are, according to their nature, introduced into the aqueous phase of the composition or into the phase oily, or in vesicles or any other type of vector. These adjuvants and their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the property desired for the emulsion of the invention.

Gelling agents Depending on the viscosity desired for the first composition according to the invention, one or more hydrophilic gelling agents may be incorporated therein. As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made, for example, of modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (INCI name: carbomer) by the company Noveon; polyacrylamides; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) marketed by the company Clariant under the name "Hostacerin AMPS" (INCI name ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide); crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, in the form of an W / O emulsion, such as those marketed under the name SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, alginates, modified or unmodified celluloses; and their mixtures. When present, these gelling agents must be introduced in such a quantity that they do not modify the properties of the first composition according to the invention. In particular, it may comprise a 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid polymer. In the present patent application, the term "polymer containing 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid" (AMPS) units, homopolymers and copolymers is used. and both crosslinked and uncrosslinked polymers.

These are water-soluble or water-dispersible or water-swellable polymers.

Preferably, the AMPS polymers used in accordance with the invention are partially or completely neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol , N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They are usually neutralized. The term "neutralized" in the present invention means polymers that are totally or substantially completely neutralized, that is to say neutralized to at least 90%.

The AMPS polymers used in the composition of the invention generally have a number-average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 20,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 20,000 to 5,000,000 and even more preferably from 100,000 to 10,000,000. 1,500,000 g / mole.

These polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the olefinically-polyunsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking the polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

Examples of crosslinking agents which may be mentioned are divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, di (meth) acrylate and the like. ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol, trimethylol propane triacrylate, methylene-bis-acrylamide, methylene-bis-methacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetra-allyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth) acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols of the series of sugars, or other allyl- or vinyl-ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and the allylic esters of phosphoric acid derivatives and / or or vinylphosphonic, or mixtures of these compounds.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.

The homopolymers of AMPS preferred for use in the composition of the invention are crosslinked and neutralized, and they can be obtained according to the preparation method comprising the following steps: (a) the 2-acrylamido acid is dispersed or dissolved 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid in free form in a solution of t-butanol or water and tert-butanol; (b) the solution or dispersion of monomer obtained in (a) is neutralized with one or more inorganic or organic bases, preferably ammonia NH 3, in an amount making it possible to obtain a degree of neutralization of the sulfonic acid functions of the polymer; ranging from 90 to 100%; (c) adding to the solution or dispersion obtained in (b), the crosslinking monomer (s); (d) conventional radical polymerization is carried out in the presence of free radical initiators at a temperature of from 10 to 150 ° C; the precipitating polymer in the tert-butanol solution or dispersion.

The more particularly preferred AMPS homopolymers comprise, randomly distributed: a) from 90 to 99.9% by weight of units of general formula (I) below:

Embedded image in which X + denotes a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth cation or the ammonium ion, at most 10 mol% of the X + cations which may be protons (I); H +; b) from 0.01 to 10% by weight of crosslinking units from at least one monomer having at least two olefinic double bonds; the proportions by weight being defined relative to the total weight of the polymer.

The homopolymers used according to the invention and more particularly preferred comprise from 98 to 99.5% by weight of units of formula (I) and from 0.2 to 2% by weight of crosslinking units. As homopolymer of this type, mention may be made in particular of the cross-linked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, marketed by Clariant under the trademark "Hostacerin AMPS" (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide). The AMPS copolymers that may be used in the composition of the invention may be chosen in particular from: 1) crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide or methylacrylamide and of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, in particular those occurring under the form of an W / O emulsion, such as those marketed under the name SEPIGEL 305 by the company Seppic (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7), under the name SIMULGEL 600 by the company Seppic (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80), 2) copolymers of (meth) acrylic acid or (meth) acrylate and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, especially those present in the form of an W / O emulsion, such as those sold under the name SIMULGEL NS by the company Seppic (copolymer of acrylamido-2-methyl propane sodium sulfonate / hydroxyethyl acrylate in inverse emulsion at 40.degree. % in Polysorbate 60 and squalane) (CTFA name: hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / squalane 30 / polysorbate 60) or those marketed under the name SIMULGEL EG by the company Seppic (acrylic acid / acrylamido-2-methylpropane copolymer). sulfonic acid in the form of sodium salt in 45% inverse emulsion in isohexadecane / water) (CTFA name : 3) copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and of vinylpyrrolidone or of vinylformamide, such as the products sold under the names ARISTOFLEX AVC: Sodium Acrylate / Sodium acryloylmethyl-taurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80); by the company Clariant, 4) copolymers of AMPS hydrophobic pattern, especially copolymers comprising: - 80 to 99 mol% and preferably from 85 to 99 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid units (AMPS) ) of formula (I) as defined above and 1 to 20 mol% and preferably 1 to 15 mol% of hydrophobic units of formula (II) below: -CH 2 C 0 = C O- (CH 2 CH 2 O ) n R4 wherein n denotes an integer ranging from 3 to 100, preferably from 3 to 50 and more preferably from 7 to 25; R, is hydrogen or a methyl radical, and R4 denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

As copolymers of AMPS with a hydrophobic unit, mention may be made in particular of the copolymer of AMPS and of ethoxylated C12-C14 alcohol methacrylate (non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from Genapol LA-070 and AMPS) (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Laureth-7 Methacrylate Copolymer) sold under the name ARISTOFLEX LNC by the company Clariant, and the copolymer of AMPS and ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate (25 EO) (crosslinked copolymer with trimethylolpropane triacrylate, obtained from Genapol T -250 and AMPS) (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) marketed under the name ARISTOFLEX HMS by the company Clariant.

As lipophilic gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of modified clays, such as modified magnesium silicate (RHEOX bentonite gel VS38), and hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (INCI name: Disteardimonium hectorite) marketed under the name "bentone". 38 EC "by the company RHEOX.

The gelling agent may be present in an active material content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition.

Dyestuffs They may be chosen in particular from mineral pigments and organic pigments, interferential or not, surface-treated or untreated, and mixtures thereof. The term "pigment" refers to any coloring matter that is insoluble in cosmetic raw materials known to those skilled in the art. They can be alone (one color) or mixed. Pigments can be any color, including yellow, black, red, brown, blue and purple.

Mention may in particular be made, as inorganic pigments, of titanium dioxide, zirconium oxides, cerium oxides, zinc oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow or red), chromium oxides, manganese violet , ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. All these pigments can be optionally surface treated.

Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, organic lacquer-type pigments of barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum including those subject to certification by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) (examples D & C or FD & C) and those exempt from FDA certification as lacquers based on cochineal carmine.

Charges As fillers that can be used in the first composition of the invention, there may be mentioned, for example, kaolin; silica; talcum; boron nitride; organic spherical powders, fibers; and their mixtures. As organic spherical powders, mention may be made, for example, of polyamide powders and in particular Nylon® powders such as nylon-1 or polyamide-12 sold under the names ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; Teflon®; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, sold under the name MICROSPHERE M-100 by the company Matsumoto or under the name COVABEAD LH85 by the company Wackherr; ethylene-acrylate copolymer powders, such as those sold under the name FLOBEADS by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals; powders of natural organic materials such as starch powders, especially corn starch, wheat or rice, crosslinked or otherwise, such as starch powders crosslinked with octenylsuccinate anhydride, sold under the name DRY -FLO by the company National Starch. As fibers, mention may be made, for example, of polyamide fibers, such as, in particular, nylon 6 (or polyamide 6) (INCI name: nylon 6), nylon 6,6 (or polyamide 66) fibers (INCI name: nylon 66 ) or such as poly-p-phenylene terephtamide fibers; and their mixtures. These fillers may be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Active Agents As active agents that can be used in the first composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates; sodium hyaluronate; polyols such as glycerin, glycols such as polyethylene glycols, and sugar derivatives; anti-inflammatories; procyannidol oligomers; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin K, vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 or PP (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters) and mixtures thereof; keratolytic and / or desquamating agents such as salicylic acid and its derivatives, alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and their derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives; urea; caffeine; depigmenting agents such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and its derivatives; retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; hydrocortisone; melatonin; extracts of algae, mushrooms, vegetables, yeasts, bacteria; steroids; anti-bacterial active agents such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (or triclocarban) and the acids indicated above, and in particular the salicylic acid and its derivatives; enzymes; flavonoids; tensing agents such as synthetic polymers, vegetable proteins, polysaccharides of plant origin in form or not of microgels, starches, wax dispersions, mixed silicates and colloidal particles of inorganic fillers; ceramides; anti-inflammatory agents; soothing agents; mattifying agents; anti-wrinkle agents; essential oils ; and their mixtures; and any suitable asset for the ultimate purpose of the composition.

U.V. filters can be organic or inorganic (or physical U.V. filters). They may be present in an amount of active material ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 10% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition.

Examples of organic screening agents active in the UV-A and / or UV-B which may be added in the composition of the invention include, for example, anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives; triazine derivatives such as those described in patent applications US 4367390, EP863145, EP517104, EP570838, EP796851, EP775698, EP878469 and EP933376; benzophenone derivatives; [343'-diphenylacrylate derivatives, benzotriazole derivatives, benzimidazole derivatives; imadazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); methylene bis- (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in US5,237,071, US5,166,355, GB2303549, DE19726184 and EP893119; filter polymers and silicone filters such as those described in particular in the application WO93 / 04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649.

The total amount of organic UV filters in the first composition according to the invention may range, for example, from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

As physical filters which can be added in the first composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of pigments and nanopigments of metal oxides, coated or uncoated, in particular the oxides of titanium, iron, zirconium, zinc or cerium, and mixtures thereof, these oxides possibly being in the form of micro- or nanoparticles (nanopigments), optionally coated.

The first composition according to the invention can be, for example, in all the galenical forms of the emulsions, for example in the form of serum, milk or cream, and they are prepared according to the usual methods. It is in particular in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

SECOND COMPOSITION B The second composition of the product according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least one elastomeric organopolysiloxane and at least one silicone oil, said mixture being present in a content of at least 60% by weight relative to the weight of said composition, preferably at least 70%, more preferably at least 80%, and more preferably at least 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Said mixture may represent up to 100% by weight of the total weight of the second composition.

Orqanopolvsiloxane Elastomer The second composition of the invention contains at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer, also called "silicone elastomer" in the following description, which is preferably at least partially crosslinked. The term "elastomer" is understood to mean a flexible, deformable solid material having viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is able to recover its original shape after stretching. This elastomer is formed of high molecular weight polymer chains whose mobility is limited by a uniform network of crosslinking points.

The elastomeric organopolysiloxanes used in the composition according to the invention are preferably partially or completely crosslinked. They are in the form of particles. In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer particles have a size ranging from 0.1 to 500 μm, preferably from 3 to 200 μm and better still from 3 to 50 μm. These particles may be any shape and for example be spherical, flat or amorphous.

When they are included in an oily phase, these elastomer organopolysiloxanes are transformed, depending on the level of oily phase used, into a product of spongy appearance when they are used in the presence of low levels in the oily phase, or in a homogeneous gel. presence of higher amounts of oily phase. The gelling of the oily phase by these elastomers may be total or partial.

Thus, the elastomers of the invention may be transported in the form of an anhydrous gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane and an oily phase. The oily phase used in the manufacture of the anhydrous organopolysiloxane elastomer gel contains one or more liquid oils at ambient temperatures (25 ° C.) chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils and / or silicone oils. Advantageously, the oily phase is a silicone liquid phase, containing one or more oils chosen from linear or cyclic chain or linear cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes optionally comprising an alkyl or pendant aryl chain or at the end of the chain, the alkyl chain having 1 at 6 carbon atoms.

The elastomeric organopolysiloxanes used according to the invention may be chosen from the crosslinked polymers described in application EP-A-0295886 and from those described in patent US Pat. No. 5,266,321. They are preferably non-emulsifying. The term "non-emulsifying" elastomeric organopolysiloxanes defines organopolysiloxane elastomers that do not contain a hydrophilic chain such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerolated units.

The silicone elastomer is an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane obtainable by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and diorganopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of platinum catalyst; or by condensation-crosslinking dehydrogenation reaction between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam.

Preferably, the crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms each bonded to a different silicon atom, and (B) diorganopolysiloxane having at least two groups to ethylenic unsaturation bonded to silicon, especially in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst, as for example described in application EP-A-295886.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst.

The compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (A) with the compound (B) in the presence of the catalyst (C).

The compound (A) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C 2 -C 4); the lower alkenyl group can be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (A) may have a branched chain, linear chain, cyclic or network structure but the linear chain structure is preferred. The compound (A) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, the compound (A) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 ° C. The organopolysiloxanes (A) can be selected from methylvinylsiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, copolymers terminated dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane trimethylsiloxy end groups, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) polysiloxane, and dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymers.

The compound (B) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 silicon-bonded hydrogens in each molecule and is therefore the crosslinking agent of the compound (A). Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (A) and the number of silicum-bonded hydrogen atoms per molecule of the compound (B) is at least 4. The compound (B) may be any molecular structure, especially of linear chain structure, branched chain, cyclic structure. The compound (B) may have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with the compound (A). It is advantageous that the compound (B) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms in the compound (B) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in the compound (A) is in the range of 1/1 to 20/1.

Compound (B) may be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane cyclic copolymers.

Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum. on support.

The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A) and ( B).

Other organic groups may be silicon-bonded in organopolysiloxanes (A) and (B) previously described, such as, for example, alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, a mercapto group.

The non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is generally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the non-emulsifying elastomer is in the form of non-spherical particles. The elastomeric organopolysiloxanes used in the composition of the invention may be, for example, those marketed under the names KSG 6 by Shin-Etsu; Trefil E-505C or Trefil E-506C by Dow-Corning; Gransil (SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556) by the company Grant Industries, or those marketed in the form of gels already constituted: KSG 15, KSG 16, KSG 17, KSG 18, KSG 26A, KSG 26B, KSG-31 "KSG-32", "KSG-33", "KSG-41", "KSG-42", "KSG-43", "KSG-44" from Shin-Etsu, Gransil SR SCYC gel, Gransil SR DMF gel, Gransil SR DC556 gel from the company, Gransil RPS from Grant Industries, 1229-02-167 and 1229-02-168 from the company General Electric According to a preferred embodiment, silicone elastomers bearing the INCI name dimethicone / vinyldimethicone copolymer (or polysilicone-11) mixed with a cyclic silicone oil, for example the cross-linked organopolysiloxane / cyclopentasiloxane mixture or a crosslinked organopolysiloxane / cyclohexasiloxane mixture such as, for example, Gransil RPS D5 or the Gransil RPS D6 from the company Grant Industries. Elastomers marketed under the references can also be mentioned. these DC 9040 "," DC 9041 "," DC 9509 "," DC9505 "," DC 9506 "by the Dow Corning Company. It is also possible to use a mixture of silicone elastomers, and especially a mixture of these commercial products.

The elastomeric organopolysiloxane (s) used according to the invention are present in an amount of active material that can range, for example, from 5 to 50%, preferably from 7 to 30% by weight and better still from 10 to 20% by the total weight of the second. composition. In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is present in an amount of active material greater than or equal to 7% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 10% by weight of the total weight of the second composition.

Silicone oil

The second composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one silicone oil which may be chosen from volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, for example volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes. (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes. Within the meaning of the invention, a volatile oil has at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) a vapor pressure ranging from 0.02 mm to 300 mmHg (2.66 Pa to 40 mmHg). 000 Pa) and better ranging from 0.1 to 90 mm Hg (13 Pa to 12,000 Pa). The nonvolatile oils then correspond to a vapor pressure of less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa), and more preferably less than 10-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

According to one embodiment, the second composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile silicone oil, preferably a cyclic volatile silicone oil.

According to one embodiment, the second composition comprises less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, better still less than 2% non-silicone oil, preferably is free of non-silicone oils.

In particular, the second composition B according to the invention may comprise at least 55%, preferably at least 60%, better still at least 70% of silicone oil, more preferably at least 80% by weight of silicone oil, which can go up to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition.

The second composition B according to the invention preferably comprises less than 5%, preferably less than 2% and better still less than 1% water. It is advantageously anhydrous.

The second composition may comprise pigments and / or fillers as described above, in the contents indicated for the first composition. According to one embodiment, the second composition exclusively comprises a mixture of at least one elastomeric organopolysiloxane and at least one silicone oil, as described above, and pigments.

The compositions, objects of the invention, are intended for topical application and may in particular constitute a dermatological or cosmetic composition, for example intended for the treatment (anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, hydration, sun protection, etc.), the treatment and the makeup of keratin materials and in particular the skin.

The examples which follow will make it possible to better understand the invention, without however being limiting in nature. The quantities indicated are in% by weight, unless otherwise indicated.

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Product with a double compartment 1 / First composition A: Oil-in-water emulsion ° / U Water Qsp 100 Preservatives qs 1,3 butylene glycol 8 glycerin 8 octane 1,2 diol 0,25 NaOH 0,03% Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7 (SEPIGEL 305 of 1.5 Seppic :) Assets 11.44 Potassium Cetyl Phosphate (AMPHISOL K from DSM) 1 Stearic Acid 2 Polydimethylsiloxane 5 cst / Dimethiconol (88/12) (Dow Corning 2 1503 Fluid) PEG-100 stearate / glyceryl stearate (ARLACEL 165 FL from Croda) 3.25 Cetyl alcohol 0.5 Stearyl alcohol 0.5 Vaseline 5 Meadowfom oil 2 Plant perhydrosqualene 5.5 Hydrogenated isoparaffin (Parleam of NOF) 2 Cyclohexadimethylsiloxane 4 Coated Mica TiO2 0.1 Amorphous Silica Microspheres (Sunsphere H51 from AGC Si-Tech) 0.5 Fragrance 0.4 Procedure: The formula is prepared using a Moritz type homogenizer.

The ingredients of the aqueous phase are heated to 70 ° C. The compounds of the fatty phase are heated to 70 ° C. The emulsification is carried out by pouring the hot fatty phase in the hot aqueous phase, under homogenizer, for 10 minutes. The product is cooled gradually with stirring, then the gelling agent (Sepigel) is added at 50 ° C., followed by the fillers, and the perfume.

2 / Second composition B with silicone elastomer mixture and oil Crosslinked organopolysiloxane mixture and cyclohexasiloxane (10/90) (Gransil RPS-6 from GRANT Industries) Mica-titanium oxide-brown iron oxide

Each first composition and second composition can be packaged in the same quantity in two separate compartments of a dual-compartment tube-type packaging such as the Alcan packaging dual tube 35-25, or double pump bottle type. The compositions are mixed at the outlet of the tube or bottle and the corresponding mixture is applied to the skin. The use of a dual compartment pump bottle combines the anti-aging effectiveness of a conventional formula with the immediate visible and felt effects of a silicone elastomer blend with nacres and or pigments. 99% gsp100%

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic product comprising, separately from one another, at least a first and a second cosmetic composition and wherein: the first composition A is in the form of an emulsion comprising at least one aqueous phase and at least one phase and the second composition B comprises a mixture of at least one elastomeric organopolysiloxane and at least one silicone oil, said mixture being present in a content of at least 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition. 2. Product according to claim 1, characterized in that the mixture of organopolysiloxane elastomer and silicone oil present in the second composition represents at least 70%, preferably at least 80% by weight, and more preferably at least 90% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 3. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organopolysiloxane elastomer is chosen from those obtained: - by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganosiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and diorganopolysiloxane having groups to ethylenic unsaturation bonded to silicon; - by condensation reaction crosslinking dehydrogenation between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon; - by crosslinking condensation reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane; by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation. 30 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by addition reaction crosslinking (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms each bonded to a different silicon atom, and (B) diorganopolysiloxane having at least two silicon-bonded ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organopolysiloxane elastomer is a copolymer dimethicone / vinyldimethicone copolymer (or polysilicon-11). 7. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organopolysiloxane elastomer is present in an active material content ranging for example from 5 to 50%, preferably from 7 to 30% by weight and more preferably from 10 to 20% of the total weight of the second composition. 8. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organopolysiloxane elastomer is present in an amount of active material greater than or equal to 7% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 10% by weight of the total weight of the second composition. 9. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second composition comprises at least 55% by weight, preferably at least 60%, better still at least 70% of silicone oil, more preferably at least 80% by weight of silicone oil. 10. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second composition comprises at least one volatile silicone oil, preferably a cyclic volatile silicone oil. 11. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first composition is in the form of oil-in-water emulsion. 12. Product according to the preceding claim, wherein the first and second compositions are packaged separately from one another, but combined in a single package. The product of claim 11, wherein the first and second compositions are packaged separately from each other in separate packaging units. 14. Packaging and dispensing assembly of the compositions forming a product according to any one of the preceding claims, said assembly comprising at least two independent compartments respectively comprising each of said compositions and being adjusted to the distribution of the two compositions separately or in mixture . 15. Cosmetic process for the care of keratinous substances consisting in applying to the keratin materials at least one layer of a mixture: of a first composition A in the form of an emulsion comprising at least one aqueous phase and at least one fatty phase and a second composition B comprises a mixture of at least one elastomeric organopolysiloxane and at least one silicone oil, said mixture being present in a content of at least 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition, said mixture being obtained either extemporaneously before application to the keratin materials, or simultaneously with its application to keratin materials.