FR2940098A1 - Cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, useful for cosmetic treatment and/or cleaning of the skin, comprises hydrophobic modified inulin and silicone emulsifier - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, comprises at least one hydrophobic modified inulin (a) and at least one silicone emulsifier (b).

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising at least one hydrophobic modified inulin and at least one silicone emulsifier, and to its uses for care, makeup, cleaning and / or cleansing of the skin, mucous membranes, eyes and / or hair, as well as for the treatment of dry skin.

In the cosmetic field, it is common to use creams consisting of a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O) comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in an oily phase. These emulsions comprise a continuous oily phase and thus make it possible to form on the surface of the skin a lipidic film which prevents the loss of transepidermal water and protects the skin from external aggressions. These emulsions are particularly suitable for protecting and nourishing the skin, and in particular for treating dry skin.

However, these emulsions because of their "heavy" texture lack freshness and fluidity and are difficult to work with. They leave on the skin a greasy and sticky film. In addition, if one increases the amount of internal phase (aqueous) so as to bring more freshness and a touch less fat, it results in obtaining creams often compact and difficult to spread.

Compositions in the form of an W / O emulsion comprising a hydrocarbon oil, a volatile silicone oil, a silicone emulsifier and an alkylated polyol ester which are fluid, pleasant to the application and easy to spread, and have properties are also known. statisfactory emollients. However, these emulsions do not exhibit optimum stability, particularly when they are fluid, below a certain viscosity threshold (for example below 50 - 60 Pa. $).

There therefore remains the need for water-in-oil emulsions having a non-greasy, non-tacky feel on the skin while having important moisturizing properties, and which remain stable over a wide range of viscosity values.

The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising a hydrophobic modified inulin and a silicone emulsifier makes it possible to achieve these objectives.

Also, the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, characterized in that it comprises (1) at least one hydrophobic modified inulin and (2) ) at least one silicone emulsifier.

The composition according to the invention is stable over time, that is to say that no change in its macroscopic, microcoscopic appearance and its physicochemical characteristics (drop size, pH, viscosity) is observed after storage at room temperature for a period of 15 days.

The composition of the invention has a viscosity that may range, for example, from 0.01 Pa.s to 100 Pa.s at a temperature of 25 ° C., the viscosity being measured using a Rhéomat 180 (Société LAMY) , equipped with a mobile MS-R1, MS-R2, MS-R3, MS-R4 or MS-R5 chosen according to the consistency of the composition, rotating at a speed of rotation of 200 t.min-1. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is preferably fluid, that is to say that it has a viscosity ranging from about 0.1 to 5 Pa.s, better from 0.1 to 3 Pa.s, preferably from 0.2 to 2 Pa.s and even more preferably from 0.3 to 1 Pa.s, this viscosity being measured at about 25 ° C. using the "Rhéomat Metler" viscometer equipped with a mobile 2 (for viscosities less than 0.7 Pa. $) or a mobile 3 (for viscosities greater than 0.7 Pa. $).

Hydrophobic modified inulin

By "hydrophobic modified inulin" according to the invention is meant in particular an inulin modified with hydrophobic chains, in particular modified by grafting hydrophobic chains on the hydrophilic backbone of said inulin.

Inulin belongs to the fructan family. Fructans or fructosans are oligosaccharides or polysaccharides comprising a sequence of anhydrofructose units optionally associated with a plurality of different saccharide residues of fructose. The fructans can be linear or branched. The fructans can be products obtained directly from a plant or microbial source or products whose chain length has been modified (increased or reduced) by fractionation, synthesis or hydrolysis in particular enzymatic. The fructans generally have a degree of polymerization of from 2 to about 1000 and preferably from 2 to about 60. There are 3 groups of fructans. The first group corresponds to products whose fructose units are mostly linked by 13-2-1 bonds. These are essentially linear fructans such as inulin. The second group also corresponds to linear fructoses but the fructose units are essentially linked by 13-2-6 bonds. These products are levanes. The third group corresponds to mixed frucans, that is to say having sequences 13-2-6 and 13-2-1. These are essentially branched fructans than graminans.

Inulin can be obtained for example from chicory, dahlia or Jerusalem artichokes. Preferably, the inulin used in the composition according to the invention is obtained for example from chicory.

The inulins used in the compositions according to the invention are hydrophobic modified. In particular, they are obtained by grafting hydrophobic chains onto the hydrophilic backbone of the fructan.

The hydrophobic chains capable of being grafted onto the main chain of the fructan can in particular be linear or branched hydrocarbon chains, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 50 carbon atoms, such as the alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl or alkylene groups; divalent cycloaliphatic groups or organopolysiloxane chains. These hydrocarbon or organopolysiloxane chains may in particular comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, and / or sulphonamide functions, such as especially methylenedicyclohexyl and isophorone; or divalent aromatic groups such as phenylene.

In particular, the inulin has a degree of polymerization of from 2 to about 1000 and preferably from 2 to about 60, and a degree of substitution of less than 2 based on a fructose unit.

According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic chains have at least one alkyl carbamate group of formula R-NH-CO- in which R is an alkyl group having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms.

According to a more preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic chains are lauryl carbamate groups.

In particular, by way of illustration and without limitation, hydrophobic modified inulins which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of stearoyl inulin such as those sold under the names Lifidrem Inst by the company Engelhard and Rheopearl INS by the company Ciba ; palmitoyl inulin; undecylenoyl inulin such as those sold under the names Lifidrem INUK and Lifidrem INUM by the company Engelhard; and inulin lauryl carbamate such as that sold under the name INUTEC SPI by the company Orafti.

In particular, a lauryl carbamate-grafted inulin is used, in particular resulting from the reaction of lauryl isocyanate with an inulin, in particular derived from chicory. By way of example of these compounds, mention may be made especially of the product sold under the name INUTEC SPI by the company ORAFTI.

The level of hydrophobic modified inulin in the composition of the invention may range from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of said composition.

Silicone emulsifier

Silicone emulsifier is understood to mean a silicone compound containing a hydrophilic chain and capable of emulsifying an aqueous phase in a fatty phase. This silicone emulsifier may be chosen in particular from emulsifying silicone elastomers, alkyldimethicone copolyols and dimethicone copolyols.

Preferably, the silicone emulsifier is present in the composition of the invention in an amount (of active material) ranging for example from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better from 1 to 7% by weight and even better from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Emulsifying silicone elastomer By "silicone elastomer" is meant a partially or fully crosslinked organopolysiloxane, a flexible and deformable material having viscoelastic properties. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is able to recover its original shape after stretching.

By emulsifying silicone elastomer is meant a silicone elastomer comprising at least one hydrophilic chain, this chain possibly being in particular oxyalkylenated or glycerolated. A silicone elastomer is a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane. The emulsifying silicone elastomer may therefore be chosen from silicone elastomers comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain and / or a glycerolated chain.

The silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain may be obtained in particular by addition reaction and crosslinking of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon (Al), and a polyoxyalkylene having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups (B1), especially in the presence of a catalyst (Cl), in particular platinum catalyst, as described for example in US-A-5,236,986 and US-A-5,412,004.

The compound (Al) is the base compound for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (Al) with the compound (B1) in the presence of the catalyst (Cl).

The compound (B1) is advantageously an oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated compound comprising at least two vinyl groups in the α-w position of the silicone chain, which will react with Si-H bonds of the compound (Al). The compound (B1) may in particular be a polyoxyalkylene (in particular polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene) with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations.

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (Al) can be alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

The compound (Al) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxanemethylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxanemethylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers, and trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers.

Compound (C1) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum. on support.

The catalyst (Cl) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as a clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (Al). ) and (B1).

In particular, the silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain may be obtained by reaction of polyoxyalkylene (in particular polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene) with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations and of trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, in the presence of platinum catalyst.

The silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain used according to the invention is preferably a silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyethylenated chain.

In addition, the silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain is preferably transported in gel form in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain is often in the form of non-spherical particles.

Polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers are described in US Pat. No. 5,236,986, US Pat. No. 5,412,004 and US Pat. No. 5,837,793 and US Pat. No. 5,811,487, the contents of which are incorporated by reference.

As silicone elastomers comprising at least one polyoxyethylenated chain, those marketed by the company Shin Etsu under the names: - KSG-21 (27% active ingredient) INCI name: Dimethicone / PEG-10 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer ), - KSG-20 (95% Active Ingredient INCI Name: PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer), - KSG-30 (100% Active Ingredient INCI Name: Lauryl PEG-15 Dimethicone Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer), - KSG-31 (25% active ingredient, INCI name: Lauryl PEG-15 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer), - KSG-32 or KSG-42 or KSG-320 or KSG-30 (25% active ingredient) INCI name : Lauryl PEG-15 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer), - KSG-33 (20% active ingredient), - KSG-210 (27% active ingredient INCI name: Dimethicone / PEG-10/15 crosspolymer), - KSG-310: Polyoxyethylenated crosslinked lauryl modified polydimethylsiloxane in mineral oil (mineral oil) - KSG-330, - KSG-340, - X- 226146 (at 32% active ingredient. INCI name: Dimethicone / PEG-10 dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer),

or those marketed by Dow Corning under the names: - DC9010 (9% active ingredient INCI name: PEG-12 dimethicone crosspolymer) - DC9011 (1% active ingredient).

These products are generally in the form of oily gels containing the silicone elastomer particles.

KSG-210 (INCI name: Dimethicone / PEG-10/15 crosspolymer) is preferably used which is about 27% active material of silicone elastomer in silicone oil.

The emulsifying silicone elastomer may also be chosen from silicone elastomers comprising at least one glycerolated chain.

The silicone elastomer comprising at least one glycerolated chain may be obtained in particular by addition reaction and crosslinking of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen (A2) and a polyglycerolated compound having ethylenically unsaturated groups ( B2), especially in the presence of catalyst (C2), in particular platinum catalyst.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated polyglycerol compound and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst.

The compound (A2) is the base compound for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (A) with the compound (B2) in the presence of the catalyst (C2).

The compound (A2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 hydrogen atoms bonded to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule. Compound (A2) may have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with compound (B2).

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (A2) may be alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group. Preferably, said organic group is chosen from methyl, phenyl and lauryl groups.

The compound (A2) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxanemethylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxanemethylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers, and trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxanelaurylmethylsiloxane copolymers.

The compound (B2) can be a polyglycerolated compound corresponding to the following formula (B'2): CmH2m_1-0- [Gly] n-CmH2m-1 (B'2) in which m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200, preferably from 2 to 100, preferentially from 2 to 50, better still from 2 to 20, even more preferably from 2 to 10, and even more preferably from 2 to 5, and in particular n is equal to at 3; Gly means: -CH2-CH (OH) -CH2-O- or -CH2-CH (CH2OH) -O-

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (B2) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of the compound (A2) is at least 4.

It is advantageous that the compound (A2) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the compound (A2) and the total amount of all the groups to Ethylenic unsaturation in the compound (B2) is in the range of 1/1 to 20/1.

Compound (C2) is the catalyst of the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum on support.

The catalyst (C2) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A2 ) and (B2).

The silicone elastomer comprising at least one glycerolated chain, used according to the invention is generally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the elastomer comprising at least one glycerolated chain is often in the form of non-spherical particles.

Such elastomers are described in particular in document WO-A-2004/024798.

As silicone elastomers comprising at least one glycerolated chain, those sold by the company Shin Etsu under the names: KSG-710, (at 20-30% active ingredient in mineral oil) INCI name: Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer), - KSG-810, - KSG-820, - KSG-830, - KSG-840.

Alkvldimethiconecopolvols and dimethicone copolvols

The silicone emulsifier may also be chosen from alkyldimethicone copolyols and dimethicone copolyols.

Examples of alkyldimethicone copolyols that may be used are those containing a C10-C22 alkyl group, such as lauryldimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Q2-5200 by the Dow Corning Company, cetyldimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name ABIL EM. 90 by the Goldschmidt Company or as the 4 polyglyceryl isostearate / cetyldimethicone copolyol / hexyl laurate mixture sold under the name Abil WE 09 by Goldschmidt, oleyldimethicone copoylol such as that sold under the name KF-6026 by the company Shin -Etsu, stearyldimethicone copolyol such as that sold under the name X-22-904 by the Shin-Etsu Company. It is preferably cetyldimethicone copolyol.

As dimethicone copolyols, it is possible to use, for example, dimethicone copolyols containing oxyethylenated groups and oxypropylene groups, such as that comprising 18 oxyethylenated groups and 18 oxypropylene groups, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the names Dow Corning 3225 C and Dow Corning 5225 C (INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane / PEG / PPG-18/18 Dimethicone) by Dow Corning, and that comprising 14 oxyethylenated groups and 14 oxypropylene groups such as the mixture of dimethicone copolyol and cyclopentasiloxane (85/15) marketed under the name Abil EM-97 by the company Goldschmidt (INCI name: Bis-PEG / PPG-14/14 Dimethicone / Cyclopentasiloxane). It is also possible to use dimethicone copolyols containing only oxyethylenated groups, such as the products sold under the trade names KF-6015 or KF-6017 (PEG-10 dimethicone) by the company Shin-Etsu.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, an alkyl dimethicone copolyol having an alkyl radical containing from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as cetyl dimethicone copolyol, such as the product marketed under the name Abil EM-90, is used as silicone emulsifier. by the company Goldschmidt and the mixture of dimethicone copolyol and cyclopentasiloxane (85/15) sold under the name Abil EM-97 by the company Goldschmidt; lauryl dimethicone copolyol and, for example, the mixture of about 91% of lauryl dimethicone copolyol and about 90% of isostearyl alcohol, sold under the name Q2-5200 by Dow Corning, and mixtures thereof.

Circe phase

The fatty phase consists of oils and all the other fatty substances and lipophilic constituents that may be present in the composition of the invention. All cosmetically acceptable oils can be used.

The term "oil" means a body other fatty substances used in the composition of the invention, there may be mentioned for example: - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squalane; hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R'COOR2 and R'OR2 in which R 'represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Prisorine 3631); linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil; silicone oils, for example volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol); partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; - and their mixtures.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" is understood to mean any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

The fatty phase may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 5 to 60%, better still from 5 to 50% and preferably from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This amount does not include the silicone emulsifier. In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise from 5 to 40% and preferably from 10 to 30% by weight of oils relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one branched chain hydrocarbon oil. Preferably the branched chain hydrocarbon oil comprises from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be chosen for example from the group comprising isohexadecane, isododecane, isoparaffins and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile silicone oil, which may be chosen for example from cyclic or linear polydimethylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. The cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes or cyclomethicones contain from about 3 to 9 carbon atoms, and preferably from 4 to 6 carbon atoms and may be for example cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane. The volatile linear polydimethylsiloxanes preferably comprise from about 3 to 9 carbon atoms. Volatile linear polydimethylsiloxanes generally have a viscosity at 25 ° C of less than or equal to 5 cSt while cyclomethicones generally have a viscosity at 25 ° C of less than or equal to 10 cSt.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one branched chain hydrocarbon oil and at least one volatile silicone oil, as described above.

Preferably, the total amount of branched chain hydrocarbon oil (s) and volatile silicone oil (s) represents at least 50% by weight of the fatty phase, the ratio between the amount of two types of oils that can vary to a large extent as long as each oil is present, the concentration of each type of oil being preferably at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the total amount of branched chain hydrocarbon oil (s) and volatile silicone oil (s) ranges from 60 to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

Preferably, the weight ratio of fatty phase to hydrophobic modified inulin ranges from 10 to 150, more preferably from 40 to 100.

In addition to the oils mentioned above, the composition of the invention may contain other fatty substances in the fatty phase, such as fatty acids having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C 1-4 alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; silicone gums (dimethiconol), non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, such as the products sold under the names KSG 6 or KSG 16 by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names Trefil, BY29 or EPSX by the company Dow Corning or under them. Gransil denominations by Grant Industries; waxes, for example mineral waxes, waxes of animal origin, such as beeswax, waxes of plant origin, hydrogenated oils which are concretes at 25 ° C., fatty esters and concrete glycerides at 25 ° C. synthetic waxes, silicone waxes; pasty fatty substances such as petrolatum and petrolatum; and also butters such as shea butter, cocoa butter, shorea butter, muru muru butter, cupuac butter, and mixtures thereof.

Additional emulsifiers

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the silicone emulsifier, an additional emulsifier (or surfactant), also said coemulsifier.

The additional emulsifier can be chosen for example from nonionic emulsifiers derived from fatty acid and polyol, succinic-terminated polyolefins, and mixtures thereof. As succinically terminated polyolefins, mention may be made in particular of esterified succinic-terminated polyisobutylenes and their salts, in particular the diethanolamine salts, such as the products sold under the names Lubrizol 2724, Lubrizol 2722 and Lubrizol 5603 by the company Lubrizol.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises an additional emulsification chosen from fatty acid esters and polyols.

The term "fatty acid esters of polyols" according to the invention is understood to mean fatty acid esters (or fatty acid polymers) and of polyol in which the fatty acid comprises a C 6 -C 22 alkyl chain, preferably C16-C20, and the polyol is selected from glycerol, polyglycerol, sorbitan, and mixtures thereof. The fatty acid can also be in a polymeric form, as is the case of polyhydroxystearic acid (polymer 12-hydroxystearic acid). In a particular embodiment, the fatty acid and polyol ester is a C 16 -C 20 fatty acid ester and glycerol and / or sorbitan, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of C16-C20 linear or branched chain fatty acids include stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid. An example of a C 16 -C 20 fatty acid polymer is polyl 2-hydroxystearic acid. Preferably, stearic acid, isostearic acid, polyl2-hydroxystearic acid and mixtures thereof will be used. By polyglycerols is meant compounds of formula in which the degree of condensation n is from 1 to 11, preferably from 2 to 6 and even more preferably from 3 to 6.

According to one particular embodiment, the fatty acid and polyol ester contains 2 to 10 moles (units) of polyols, preferably 2 to 4 moles of polyols, in particular 2 to 4 units of glycerol or a mixture of polyglycerols (glycerol). , di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, oligoglycerols). Even more preferentially, the fatty acid and polyol ester contains 4 moles' or units) of poltol, in particular 4 moles (or units) of glycerol.

According to a preferred embodiment, said fatty acid and polyol ester is, in addition, a fatty acid ester of a dicarboxylic acid having 2 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 14 carbon atoms, such as azelaic acid, sebacic acid, dodecanedioic acid, and preferably sebacic acid (C1o), and polyol.

As examples of fatty acid and polyol esters that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of isostearic acid and polyol esters and their mixtures, in particular esters of isostearic acid and of glycerol and / or sorbitan, such as for example the polyglycerolated isostearate (4 moles) (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate) sold under the name Isolan G134 by the company Goldschmidt, the polyglycerolated diisostearate (3 moles) sold under the name Lameform TGI by Cognis; the polyglycerolated distearate (2 moles) sold under the name Emalex PGSA by the Nihon emulsion company; polyglycerol monoisostearate (10 moles) sold under the name Nikkol decaglyn 1-IS by the company Nihon Surfactant (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-10 isostearate); the polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate sold under the name ISOLAN GPS by Goldschmidt; the mixture of sorbitan isostearate and glycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, the mixture of isostearate of sorbitan and polyglyceryl isostearate (3 moles) marketed under the name Arlacel 1690 by the company Uniquema, the mixture of sorbitan isostearate and polyglycerol isostearate (3 moles) sold under the name Arlacel 1690 by the company Uniquema and their mixtures.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional emulsifier chosen from fatty acid esters, preferably C 16 -C 20, in particular stearic acid or isostearic acid, and polyol chosen from glycerol. and / or sorbitan. This is why the invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, characterized in that it comprises (1) at least one hydrophobic modified inulin and (2) at least one silicone emulsifier and at least one additional emulsifier chosen from fatty acid esters, preferably C16-C20, in particular stearic acid or isostearic acid, and polyol chosen from glycerol and / or sorbitan.

The additional emulsifier may be present in a content (dry matter content) ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. the composition.

The composition of the invention may optionally also contain one or more fillers. The addition of fillers makes it possible to obtain compositions having particularly satisfactory cosmetic properties (softness, dullness). The charge (s) may be chosen, for example, from the group formed by the polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the name Orgasol by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the trade name Expancel by the company Kemanord Piast or under the trade name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; powders of natural organic materials such as corn starch, wheat or rice, crosslinked or not, such as starch powders crosslinked with octenyl succinate anhydride, sold under the name Dry-Flo by the company National Starch; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by Toshiba Silicone; the particles consisting of the crosslinked organosilicone TAK-110 (crosslinked methylsilanol / silicate polymer) from TAKEMOTO OIL & FAT, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the filler is chosen from: - the microspheres sold under the trade name Expancel, which are particles of expanded terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methacrylate, and especially those sold under the reference 551 DE 50 (granulometry about 40 m), 551 DE 20 (particle size of about 30 m and density of about 65 kg / m 3), 551 DE 12 (particle size of about 12 m), 551 DE 80 (particle size of about 80 m), 461 DE 50 (particle size of about 50 m). It is also possible to use microspheres formed from the same expanded terpolymer having a particle size of about 18 m and a density of about 70 kg / m 3, referred to below as EL 23, the terpolymer particles indicated above may be dry or hydrated and can be obtained, for example, according to the processes of patents and patent applications EP-A-056219, EP-A-348372, EP-A-486080, EP-A-320473, EP-A-112807 and US Pat. A-3,615,972, cross-linked organosiloxane particles (crosslinked methylsilanol / silicate polymer) as sold by TAKEMOTO OIL & FAT, and mixtures thereof.

When the composition contains fillers, the amount of filler (s) in the composition according to the invention may preferably range from 0.01% to 15% and better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. the composition.

The composition according to the invention may further contain one or more salts, and in particular a magnesium salt such as magnesium sulphate. The amount of salt (s) may range, for example, from 0.1 to 5% and preferably from 0.5 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In addition, in a known manner, the compositions of the invention may contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, perfumes, solvents, fillers, filters, coloring matters (peppers or dyes), basic agents (triethanolamine) or acids and still lipid vesicles. These adjuvants are used in the usual proportions in the cosmetic field, and for example from 0.01 to 30% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants and their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the desired property for the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention advantageously contains a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with keratin materials such as the skin, the mucous membranes, the scalp, the eyes, the keratin fibers such as the eyelashes or the eyelashes. hair. It can be used in particular for care, makeup (with the addition of pigments), removing makeup and / or cleaning the skin, mucous membranes, eyes and / or hair.

Also the invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the composition as defined above for the care, the make-up, the make-up removal and / or the cleaning of the keratin materials

Because it has an outer fatty phase, the composition according to the invention can also advantageously constitute a care composition for dry skin.

The subject of the invention is also the use of the composition as defined above for the preparation of a composition intended for the treatment of dry skin.

The composition according to the invention also has the advantage of allowing the treatment and / or cleaning of the skin without attacking it, these compositions being particularly well suited for cleaning the skin, especially dry and sensitive skin.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating and / or cleaning the skin, which consists in applying to the skin a composition as defined above.

Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the composition according to the invention will become apparent in the examples which follow, which are given purely by way of illustration and in no way limitative. The proportions by weight are given in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Comparative Example 1: W / O Emulsions

An emulsion A according to the invention comprising a hydrophobic modified inulin and an emulsion B outside the invention was prepared: Comparative (%) Fat phase Cetyl dimethicone copolyol (Abil EM 90 2.5 2.5 Goldschmidt) Isohexadecane 5 Polyglyceryl 4 Isostearate (Isolan Gl34e 0.5 0.5 Goldschmidt) Cyclohexamethicone 10 Isononyl Isononanoate 10 Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (Parleam NOF) 5 5 Charges Particles of Crosslinked Polymer 3 3 Methylsilanol / Silicate (NLK-506 from Takemoto Oil & Fat) 0.2 0.2 vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate copolymer microspheres expanded with isobutane (Expancel 551 DE 20 D60 from Expancel) Aqueous phase Lauryl inulin carbamate (Inutec SPI from 0.3 - company ORAFTI with 96.5% by weight of active ingredient) Glycerine 10 10 Butylene glycol 2 2 Propylene glycol 3 3 Magnesium sulphate 0.7 0.7 0.1 0.1 EDTA Preservatives qs qs Water qs 100 qs 100 Mode operative: preparation of the phase aqueous dispersion of the constituents in water with stirring at 80 ° C. Preparation of the fatty phase by mixing the components at 70-80 ° C., the fillers are then dispersed in the fatty phase using a spatula.

Dispersive emulsification of the aqueous phase in the hot fatty phase (70-80 ° C.) while stirring with a Moritz-type turbine.

Emulsion B has an oil release from the TO surface, which becomes more important after 15 days in time at 37 ° C. and 45 ° C. the emulsion A according to the invention remains stable over time.

Comparative Example 2: W / O Emulsions

An emulsion A according to the invention comprising a hydrophobic modified inulin and an emulsion B outside the invention was prepared: AB comparative invention (%) (%) Fat phase Cetyl dimethicone copolyol (Abil EM 90 of 2.1 2.1 Goldschmidt) Isohexadecane 11.2 11.2 Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan Gl34e 0.9 0.9 Goldschmidt) Polydimethysiloxane mixture alpha omega 1 1 dihydroxylated / cyclopenta dimethylsiloxane (14.7 / 85.3) (DC1501 Dow Corning Fluid) Cyclohexamethicone 8 cSt (DC 246 Fluid of 20.7 20.7 Dow Corning MIXTURE OF REFINED OILS OF APRICOT, 6 6 OLIVE, RICE SOUND, LAWYER (40/20/20/20) (LIPIDS BALANCE TYPE 10v of NESTLE WORLD TRADE CORPORATION) Dibutyl tetrahydroxycinnamate 0.07 0.07 pentaerithrityl (TINOGARD TT from Ciba) Charges Corn starch, esterified with 1,5-1 / 2 succinic octenyl anhydryde (National Starch Dry Flo Plus) 1.5 L COPOLYMER POWDER, 5 ETHYLENE / ACRYLIC (10 MICRONS) FLO-BEADS EA-209 ASAHI CHEMICAL Aqueous Phase Lauryl Inulin Carbamate (Inu tec SPI of the 0.3 - ORAFTI company with 96.5% by weight of active ingredient) EDTA 0.1 0.1 Glycerine 5 5 Magnesium sulphate 0.7 0.7 Ethanol 3 3 Preservatives qs qs Water qs 100 qs 100 Procedure: Preparation of the aqueous phase by dispersing the constituents in water with stirring at 80 ° C. Preparation of the fatty phase by mixing the components at 70-80 ° C., the fillers are then dispersed in the fatty phase using a spatula. Dispersive emulsification of the aqueous phase in the hot fatty phase (70-80 ° C.) while stirring with a Moritz-type turbine. Emulsion B has an oil release at TO, which increases after 15 days at 37 ° C. and 45 ° C. the emulsion A according to the invention remains stable over time.

Example 3 High-Nutrition Serum ° / 0 Water Qs 100 Phase Preservatives Qs EDTA 0.1 aqueous Magnesium sulphate 0.7 A Glycerin 5 Lauryl inulin carbamate (Inutec SPI from the company 0.3 ORAFTI 96.5% by weight of active ingredient) Polydimethysiloxane alpha omega dihydroxylated mixture 1 Phase / cyclopenta dimethylsiloxane (14.7 / 85.3) (DC1501 Dow Corning Fluid 2.5) cetyl dimethicone copolyol (Abil EM 90 Goldschmidt) fatty Polyglyceryl 4 isostearate (Isolan Gl34e from Goldschmidt) 1 B Cyclohexamethicone 8 cSt (DC 246 Dow Corning Fluid 10 Isohexadecane Isononyl Isononanoate 4 10 Microphosphate fillers of vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate copolymer 0.3 expanded with isobutane (Expancel 551 DE 20 D60 from Expancel) Particles of methylsilanol / silicate crosslinked polymer (Takemoto Oil & Fat NLK-506) A fluid composition is obtained which, after application to the skin, leaves a non-greasy and non-tacky film, which feel good moisturizing properties and remains stable over time.

Comparative Example 4: W / O Emulsions

An emulsion A according to the invention comprising a hydrophobic modified inulin and an emulsion B outside the invention was prepared: AB comparative invention (%) (%) Fat phase Cetyl dimethicone copolyol (Abil EM 90 3.5 3.5 Goldschmidt) Isohexadecane Cyclohexamethicone 10 Isononyl isononanoate Hydrogenated polyisobutene (Parleam NOF) 5 Dihydroxylated alpha omega 1 1 polydimethysiloxane / cyclopenta dimethylsiloxane mixture (14.7 / 85.3) (DC1501 Dow Corning Fluid) Aqueous phase Lauryl inulin carbamate (Inutec SPI from the company 0.3 - ORAFTI containing 96.5% by weight of active ingredient) Glycerine 10 10 Magnesium sulphate 0.7 0.7 0.1 0.1 EDTA Preservatives qs qs Water qs 100 qs 100 Fillers Particles of methylsilanol / silicate crosslinked polymer 3 3 (NLK-506 from Takemoto Oil & Fat) Copolymers of 0.2 0.2 vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate copolymer expanded with isobutane (Expancel 551 DE 20 D60 from Expancel) Mod Procedure: Preparation of the aqueous phase by dispersing the constituents in water with stirring at 80 ° C. Preparation of the fatty phase by mixing the components at 60 ° C., the charges are then dispersed in the fatty phase using a spatula. Dispersive emulsification of the aqueous phase in the hot fatty phase (70-80 ° C.) while stirring with a Moritz-type turbine.

After centrifugation of the two composites, emulsion B breaks (phase shift), while emulsion A according to the invention remains stable.

EXAMPLE 5 Moisturizing Cream Water Preservatives EDTA Glycerine Lauryl Inulin Carbamate (Inutec SPI Otrafit Company 96.5% by weight of active ingredient) Polyacrylate sodium crosslinked in water at 90% aqueous phase A 1 MA (Cosmedia SP of Cognis) 0.5 Octane 1,2-Diol Polydimethylsiloxane oxyethylenated (DP 70, viscosity 0.25 500 cSt) to 93% MA (KF-6017 from Shin Etsu) 1.8 Polydimethylsiloxane polyalkylene mixture Crosslinked fatty phase and polydimethysiloxane (6 cSt) 27/73 5.5 B (KSG-210 from Shin Etsu) Cyclohexamethicone 8 cSt (DC 246 Dow Corning Fluid 6 Isohexadecane Polymethylene Wax from Mp 64 ° C (Creebelle 303 from 2 Sasol) 0.6 Distearyl dimethyl ammonium modified hectorite (Elementis Bentone 38 VCG) 0.16 Propylene carbonate Charges Particles of methylsilanol / silicate crosslinked polymer 3 (NLK-506 from Takemoto Oil & Fat) Nacres titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide particles 0 , 5 Operating mode

Preparation of the fat phase by homogenization of the ingredients at 60-70 ° C. Dispersion of the fillers and nacres in the oily phase and then slow dispersion of the aqueous phase in the oily phase containing the charges with stirring.

We obtain a very soft cream with the application bringing freshness and immediate hydration. The skin remains soft, fresh non-greasy and matte appearance.

Claims (16)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, characterized in that it comprises (1) at least one hydrophobic modified inulin and (2) at least one silicone emulsifier. 2. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic modified inulin is from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 10%. by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight and better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and more preferably still from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the inulin is obtained from chicory. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobic chains have at least one alkyl carbamate group of formula R-NH-CO- in which R is an alkyl group having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobic chains are lauryl carbamate groups. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone emulsifier is chosen from emulsifying silicone elastomers, alkyldimethicone copolyols and dimethicone copolyols. 7. Composition according to Claim 6, characterized in that the emulsifying silicone elastomer is chosen from silicone elastomers comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain and / or a glycerolated chain. 8. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain is a silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyethylenated chain. 9. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the alkyldimethicone copolyol is chosen from alkyldimethicone copolyols having a C10-C22 alkyl group. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone emulsifier is cetyldimethicone copolyol. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone emulsifier is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10%, better still from 1 to 7% by weight, more preferably 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty phase represents from 5 to 60%, better still from 5 to 50% and preferably from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one branched chain hydrocarbon oil and at least one volatile silicone oil. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an additional emulsifier chosen from fatty acid esters and polyols. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claim, characterized in that the additional emulsifier is present in a content (dry matter) ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the compostiion, preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 16. Cosmetic process for treating and / or cleaning the skin, characterized in that a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 15 is applied to the skin.