FR3070859A1 - CLEANING AGENT BASED ON MICELLES TECHNOLOGY - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic cleansing agents containing, in a cosmetic medium, isethionate surfactants, taurate surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, polyols and natural, mineral or synthetic oils and / or fats suitable for the production of cosmetic micellar cleaning compositions, in particular for cleaning and the deep care of the skin in one application step.

Description

The application describes cosmetic cleansing agents having improved detergency based on specific surfactants, polyols and greases, as well as the use of the agents as cleansing agents and skin care agents.

In the field of cosmetic facial care, there is a need for cleansing agents which eliminate in depth and in one step the makeup products, excess fat, sebum residues and other contaminants, which often adhere well to the skin, without irritating and / or drying it.

Conventional cleaning products generally do not meet all of these requirements.

Usually, therefore, in a first step, make-up residue is removed with fat-dissolving lotions, and then the skin is then washed with a surfactant-containing agent.

Such a process is increasingly perceived as annoying and undesirable, because it requires more time and does not correspond to the aspirations for environmental protection expressed by an increasing number of consumers.

Micellar cosmetic cleansers are gradually gaining popularity as they are considered to be particularly effective in removing skin impurities.

It is assumed that by spontaneously aggregating amphiphilic ingredients (micellization) in a cosmetic medium, the impurities can be better attached, fixed and then eliminated by rinsing or wiping.

Under the name of “All-in-1 micellar cleansing gel”, the Garnier company markets a product for cleaning all skin types (Mintel database, registration number: 4745559) which effectively groups and eliminates, without mechanical influences such as by friction, make-up, dirt and / or sebum residues.

Like most facial cleansers - micellar and non-micellar, the surfactant base of the wash gel contains sulfated surfactants as well as a high proportion of ethoxylated synthetics.

The use of sulfated surfactants in facial cleansing products is controversial due to their irritant potential on the skin. Likewise, the use of ethoxylated compounds is now criticized with regard to their effect on the skin.

In addition, the production of alkoxylated compounds leads to high costs and high energy consumption, which runs counter to efforts to save energy by reducing electricity consumption and reducing CO2 emissions.

The object of the present invention was therefore to provide a gentle cosmetic cleansing agent which removes as much as possible all the skin impurities - in particular makeup residues and oil residues - in a single step and simultaneously heals the skin.

Surprisingly, it has been found that a gentle, stable and ecological surfactant base composed of isethionates, taurates and betaines in combination with polyols and oils leads to an increase in the cleaning power of cosmetic cleaning agents. Make-up residue as well as common skin impurities can therefore be better removed in a single application step. In addition, the above combination of active ingredients is characterized by the formation of a creamy foam, which can be very well distributed over the skin and which leaves a pleasant sensation on the skin after rinsing.

Another advantage is that the combination of the abovementioned active principles makes it possible to incorporate other hydrophobic components (for example perfumed oils) without having to add alkoxylated (ethoxylated) compounds or polymers of acrylic acid as stabilizing agents. .

A first object of the present application is a mild cosmetic cleaning agent containing, in a cosmetic support,

a) at least one anionic surfactant based on isethionate,

b) at least one anionic surfactant based on taurate,

c) at least one amphoteric surfactant,

d) at least one polyol and

e) at least one oil and / or a natural, mineral or synthetic fatty substance.

The cleaning agents according to the invention contain the active principles a) to e), preferably in a cosmetic support. As such, within the meaning of the invention, an aqueous support is preferably understood.

Preferably, the cosmetic support contains at least 50% by weight, more preferably at least 60% by weight, particularly preferably at least 65% by weight and particularly preferably at least 70% by weight in water.

In order to obtain optimal cleaning power (mainly for better removal of makeup residues and other non-polar substances from the skin), it is advantageous that the above-mentioned surfactants are used in certain quantities and proportions. Particularly preferably, the surfactants are used in an amount greater than the critical micelle concentration (CMC value).

A first preferred embodiment is therefore characterized in that the cleaning agents according to the invention contain the combination of active principles a) to e) in an amount which results in detectable micelle formation.

Micellization can be detected by light scattering measurements known in the prior art.

The particularly preferred cleaning agents according to the invention are those which contain

- from 0.05 to 15.00% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant based on isethionate a),

- from 0.05 to 15.00% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant based on taurate b),

- from 0.20 to 30.00% by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant c),

- from 0.05 to 10.00% by weight of at least one polyol d) and

- from 0.01 to 5.00% by weight of at least one oil and / or a natural, mineral or synthetic fatty substance e).

In a second preferred embodiment, the cleaning agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain the sum of the anionic surfactants a) and b) on the amphoteric surfactant (s) c) in a ratio by weight ranging from 1: 1 to T. 3, preferably from 1: 1 to 1: 2 and in particular from 1: 1 to 1: 1.5.

By isethionate-based surfactants a) suitable according to the invention is preferably understood to mean compounds of formula (I) below o

R ¹ ------- o

R ³ R ⁵ (D in which

R ¹ represents a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 30 carbon atoms,

R ² to R ⁵ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl radical, and

M ⁺ represents an ammonium cation, an alkanolammonium cation or a metal cation.

Preferably, the radicals R ² to R ⁵ represent hydrogen, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-butyl or 2-butyl group. In a particularly preferred manner, at least one of the radicals R ² to R ⁵ represents a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group and in particular a methyl group.

Very particularly preferably one of the radicals R ² to R ⁵ is alkyl _Cl-C4, particularly a methyl group and the other radicals are each hydrogen.

In principle, it is also possible that the isethionate a) according to formula (I) contains a mixture of isomers, which contains both the components having, for example as radical R ² , a C 1-6 alkyl group C4 - in particular a methyl group - and, as radical R ³ to R ⁵ , respectively a hydrogen atom, as well as components having for example, as radical R ⁵ , a C1-C4 alkyl group - in particular a methyl group - and, as radicals R ² to R ⁴ , respectively a hydrogen atom.

The isethionate surfactants a) which are very particularly preferred according to formula (I) are the compounds known under the names INCI Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate, Potassium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate, Ammonium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Potassium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Ammonium Lauroyl Isethionate, Sodium Myristoyl Methyl Isethionate, Potassium Myristoyl Methyl Isethionate and Ammonium Myristoyl Methyl Isethionate.

The particularly preferred compounds are Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate and / or Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate. The corresponding commercial products are offered, for example, by the company Innospec under the trademark “lselux®LQ-CLR-SB”.

The anionic surfactant (s) based on isethionates a) is / are used in the compositions according to the invention - relative to their total weight - preferably in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 12% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight and in particular from 1% by weight to 7.5% by weight.

By taurate surfactants b) suitable according to the invention is preferably understood to mean compounds of formula (II) below o R ⁷ R

R ⁶ ------ N --- SO ₃ M ⁺ (il) ch ₃ r ⁸ r in which

- R ⁶ represents a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 30 carbon atoms,

- R ⁷ to R ¹⁰ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a alk! -Θ ₄ hydroxyalkyl radical, and

- M ⁺ represents an ammonium cation, an alkanolammonium cation or a metal cation.

Preferably, the radicals R ⁷ to R ¹⁰ represent hydrogen, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-butyl or 2-butyl group. In a particularly preferred manner, at least one of the radicals R ⁷ to R ¹⁰ represents a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group and in particular a methyl group.

Most preferably, only one of the radicals R ⁷ to R ¹⁰ represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, and the other radicals each represent hydrogen.

In principle, it is also possible that the taurate surfactant b) according to formula (II) contains a mixture of isomers, which contains both the components having, for example as radical R ⁷ , a C1- C4 - in particular a methyl group - and, as radical R ⁸ to R ¹⁰ , respectively a hydrogen atom, as well as components having for example, as radical R ¹⁰ , an alkyl group in C1-C4 - in particular a methyl group - and, as radicals R ⁷ to R ⁹ , respectively a hydrogen atom.

The taurate surfactants b) which are very particularly preferred according to formula (II) are the compounds known under the names INCI Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Taurate, Potassium Cocoyl Methyl Taurate, Ammonium Cocoyl Methyl Taurate, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Taurate, Potassium Lauroyl Methyl Taurate, Ammonium Lauroyl Methyl Taurate, Sodium Oleyl Methyl Taurate, Potassium Oleyl Methyl Taurate and Ammonium Oleyl Methyl Taurate.

The particularly preferred compounds are Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Taurate and / or Sodium Oleyl Methyl Isethionate. The corresponding commercial products are offered, for example, by the company Innospec under the trademark “Pureact®WS”.

The anionic surfactant (s) based on taurates b) is / are used in the compositions according to the invention - relative to their total weight - preferably in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.5 to

7.5% by weight and in particular from 1% by weight to 5% by weight.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the cleaning agents according to the invention contain, as an anionic surfactant based on isethionate a), at least one of the compounds known under the names INCI Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate or Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate and as an anionic surfactant based on taurate b), a compound known under the name INCI Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate.

In this embodiment, it is preferred that the cleaning agents according to the invention comprise Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate or Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate as well as also Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate in the quantitative ranges mentioned above.

Among the types of suitable amphoteric surfactants c) which can be used in the cleaning agents according to the invention, there are for example one or more compounds of the following formulas (i) to (vii). In this formula, the radical R preferably represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical with a straight or branched chain, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, having 7 to 23 carbon atoms (formulas (i) and (ii)) or represents a radical straight or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl having 8 to 24 carbon atoms (formulas (iii) to (vii)):

h ₃ c _{x +} .ch ₃ so ₃ (I) h ₃ c _{x +} ch ₃ , COO (ii) H h ₃ c, CH, + ^J H, C CH ,? ^H K H ³ \ ₊ · ³ Y 0 .N COO ^^ (IU) V ' 0 ^ / SO ₃ (Iv) H H H H NOT | '^ coo' V ' I 0 k O S OH _(v) I OH (Vi) H H R. .N. . -. L · Y NOT I 0 k I c °° ( _vi j)

The preferred amphoteric surfactants c) of the formulas (i) to (vii) mentioned above contain, as radical R, mainly a straight or branched, saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl radical having 8 to 20, more preferred 8 to 18 and in particular 8 to 16 carbon atoms.

Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants c) are those in which the radical R is derived from coconut fat.

Particularly preferred surfactants are the amphoteric surfactants known under the names INCI Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Sodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Sodium Cocoamphopropionate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Coco Betamid / Lauryl Cocaine Betamid / Lauryl or Coco Betaine / Lauryl or

Cocamidopropyl betaine is particularly preferred.

The amphoteric surfactant (s) c) is / are used in the compositions according to the invention - relative to their total weight - preferably in an amount ranging from 0.20 to 30% by weight , more preferably from 0.50 to 25% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 15% by weight and in particular from 2% by weight to 10% by weight.

In another preferred embodiment, use is made, as amphoteric surfactant c), of a surfactant known under the name INCI Cocoamidopropylbetain in the quantities and proportions mentioned above (with surfactants

a) and b)).

The combination of isethionate surfactants a), taurate surfactants b) and cocamidopropyl betaine c) in the above-mentioned quantities and proportions makes it possible to obtain a gentle cleaning formulation, resistant to foam, having a high cleaning power. It is possible to do without sulfated surfactants completely.

The combination of the mixture of surfactants a) - c) with components d) and e) makes it possible to obtain an optimal balance between the high cleaning and care properties, as well as a great stability of the cleaning agents according to the invention.

As suitable polyols according to the invention, use may preferably be made of 1,2-propanediol, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, 1,2butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-pentanediol , 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2 hexanediol, 1-6-hexanediol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol or mixtures of these polyols.

Particularly preferred are 1,2-propanediol, glycerol, diglycerol,

1,6-hexanediol and / or sorbitol; glycerol and / or sorbitol are particularly preferred.

The at least one polyol - preferably glycerol and / or sorbitol - is used in the compositions according to the invention (based on their total weight) preferably in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 6% by weight and in particular from 1% by weight to 5% by weight.

As oil and / or natural, mineral or synthetic fatty substance e) suitable according to the invention, use is preferably made of triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides, mineral oils, paraffin and isoparaffin oils, dialkyl ethers, fatty acids, fatty alcohols and / or esters of glycerol mono- or fatty diacid.

For reasons of good skin compatibility and of incorporation into the cleaning agents according to the invention, natural oils (vegetable) and glycerol fatty acid esters are preferred. There is no need to further stabilize these oils with alkoxylated compounds - in particular with ethoxylated compounds.

In another particularly preferred embodiment, the cleaning agents according to the invention are substantially free of sulphate and substantially free of alkoxylated compounds (in particular ethoxylated compounds).

By “substantially free” is meant a content of free sulphated compounds and alkoxylated compounds (in particular ethoxylated compounds) respectively less than 0.1% by weight, preferably 0.05% by weight, so particularly preferred to 0.01% by weight and in particular to 0% by weight (respectively based on the total weight of the cleaning agent according to the invention).

Preferred natural oils are coconut oil, almond oil (sweet), walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil , tea tree oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, mourning oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, squash seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, l canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter and / or shea butter.

By preferred glycerol fatty acid esters is meant the glycerol mono- and / or diesters and a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acid having 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Particularly preferred glycerol esters are those in which the fatty acid part is derived from natural oils - preferably derived from sunflower oil.

The ester known under the name INCI “Glyceryl Oleate” is particularly preferred.

The at least one oily component and / or natural, mineral or synthetic fatty substance - preferably a vegetable oil and / or a glycerol monoester is preferably used in the compositions according to the invention (based on their total weight) in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.075 to 2% by weight and in particular from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight.

The cleaning agents according to the invention may also contain mild surfactants, preferably mild nonionic surfactants.

In a particularly preferred manner, the cleaning agents according to the invention also contain a mild nonionic surfactant, which is highly foaming and comes from natural sources.

The alkyl (oligo) glycosides (APG) preferably belong to the aforementioned category.

The alkyl (oligo) glycosides suitable for the purposes of the present invention can be chosen from the compounds of general formula RO- [G] _X in which [G] is preferably derived from aldoses and / or ketoses having 5-6 atoms carbon, preferably derived from glucose.

The index x represents the degree of oligomerization (DP), that is to say the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides. The subscript x preferably has a value in the range of 1 to 10, particularly preferably in the range of 1 to 3, which may not be a whole number, but may be a fraction, which can be analytically determined.

The particularly preferred alkyl (oligo) glycosides have a degree of oligomerization of between 1.2 and 1.5.

The radical R preferably represents at least one alkyl radical and / or an alkenyl radical having from 4 to 24 carbon atoms.

In a particularly preferred manner, the radical R represents an alkyl radical and / or an alkenyl radical which is derived from natural fats and oils.

The very particularly preferred alkyl (oligo) glycosides are the compounds known under the names INCI Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside and Coco Glucoside; Coco Glucoside is particularly preferred.

The mild nonionic surfactant - preferably APG and particularly preferably Coco Glucoside - is used in the compositions according to the invention (based on their total weight) preferably in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight. weight, more preferably from 0.075 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight and in particular from 0.2% by weight to 2% by weight.

For particularly simple incorporation and stabilization, it is advantageous that component e) is used as a compound with a surfactant, preferably with a nonionic surfactant and in particular with an APG in the compositions according to the invention.

Suitable compounds are known and available commercially.

A particularly preferred compound is the product available under the trade name Lamesoft® PO 65 (Ecocert) from the company BASF, which contains water, coconut glucosides and glyceryl oleates in approximately the same amounts respectively.

Lamesoft® PO 65 is based 100% on renewable vegetable raw materials and is entirely extracted from coconut and palm kernel fatty acids as well as sunflower oil.

In another preferred embodiment, the cleaning agents according to the invention therefore contain, as component e), a mixture of water, an APG and a fatty acid ester of glycerol of natural origin. , preferably a mixture of water, coconut glucosides and glycerol oleates.

The aforementioned compound is used in the compositions according to the invention (based on their total weight) preferably in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight and in particular from 0.3% by weight to 2% by weight.

It is possible, and depending on the intended use, also preferable, to add to the compositions according to the invention other active principles and adjuvants which confer advantageous properties on the skin treated with them.

Other suitable active ingredients and adjuvants can for example be chosen from anti-acne active ingredients, vitamins and / or plant extracts.

In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain - relative to their weight - in addition to 0.001 to 20% by weight of anti-acne active principles, vitamins and / or plant extracts.

By anti-acne active principles, one understands within the meaning of the present invention preferably salicylic acid and / or its physiologically compatible salts as well as the active principles called sebum regulators.

The appropriate sebum regulating active ingredients can be chosen from 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid and esters of azelaic acid, in particular potassium azeloyl diglycinate, 1,10decanediol and at least one extract of Spiraea ulmaria as well as mixtures of the above-mentioned substances. Preferred mixtures are available, for example, with the commercial product Acnacidol®PG (propylene glycol, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid, 1,10-decanediol) from the company Vincience. A preferred extract of Spiraea ulmaria is for example contained in the product Seboregul® 2 from the company Silab. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is for example present in the product Azeloglicina from the company Sinerga. The particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active principle regulating sebum in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.025 to 5% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, respectively based on the active substance in the total composition.

By appropriate vitamins is preferably meant the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors, as well as their derivatives:

• Vitamin A: the group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) as well as 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). Βcarotene is the provitamin of retinol. As a component of vitamin A, there may be mentioned, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and 'acetate.

• Vitamin B: belong among others to the group of vitamin B or to the vitamin B complex> vitamin Bï (thiamine)> vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)> vitamin B3. The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often presented under these names.

> vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). In this group, panthenol is preferably used. The panthenol derivatives which can be used are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol, pantolactone and also cationically derived panthenols. Mention may be made, for example, as individual representatives, of panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, and cationic derivatives of panthenol.

> vitamin Βθ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

• Vitamin C (ascorbic acid): use as an ester of palmitic acid, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

• Vitamin E (tocopherols, in particular a-tocopherol).

• Vitamin F: the term "vitamin F" generally denotes essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

• Vitamin H: The term vitamin H designates the acid compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] -imidazol-4-valérique, however commonly called "biotin".

Particularly preferred vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors are those of groups A, B, E and H. Particularly preferred are nicotinamide, biotin, pantolactone and / or panthenol.

The proportion by weight of the vitamin (s), of the vitamin derivative (s) and / or of the vitamin precursor (s) in the total weight of the cleaning agents according to the invention preferably applies from 0.001 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 3% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 1% by weight.

Among suitable plant extracts are preferably extracts of green tea, white tea, oak bark, nettle, bamboo, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, root burdock, horsetail, hawthorn, linden flowers, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, jojoba, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mauve, mourning, wild thyme, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, coltsfoot, vanilla, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and / or ginger root.

Particularly preferred are extracts of green tea, white tea, aloe vera, coconut, vanilla, jojoba, chamomile, ginseng and / or bamboo; are particularly preferred the extracts of white tea, aloe vera, coconut and / or vanilla, and are particularly preferred the extracts of white tea and / or aloe vera.

Usually the extracts are obtained by extracting the whole plant. However, in some cases it may also be preferable to produce the extracts exclusively from the flowers, bark, seeds, roots, fruits and / or leaves of the plant.

In order to produce said plant extracts, water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as the extractant. Among the alcohols, lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol are preferred in this respect, but particular preference is given to polyvalent alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and sorbitol. , both as a single extractant and as a mixture with water. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio rapport. 10 to 10: 1 have been found to be particularly suitable.

Plant extracts can be used in both pure and diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 1 to 80% by weight of active substance and the extracting agent or mixture of extracting agents used as solvent during their production.

Examples of suitable plant extracts according to the invention are sold under the names "Herbasol Distillate White Tea", "Herbasol Extrakt Aloe" and "Herbasol Extract Vanilla" - respectively by the company Lipoid Kosmetik.

Extracts of suitable plants can be used in the compositions according to the invention - based on their total weight - preferably in an amount a) in vegetable milk in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight, so particularly preferred from 0.05 to 3% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 2% by weight.

The cleaning agents according to the invention are preferably characterized by a pH range comprised in a favorable range for the skin ranging from 4.5 to 5.9% by weight, particularly preferably from 4.7 to 5.7 and in particular from 4.8 to 5.5 (measured at 20 ° C).

The compositions according to the invention are preferably characterized by a medium to high viscosity. Particularly preferably, the viscosity is in the range from 8,000 to 25,000 mPa-s and in particular from 8,500 to 20,000 mPa s (Brookfield; 20 rpm, spindle 5; 20 ° C).

Other active ingredients, adjuvants and additives which may preferably be present in the cleaning agents according to the invention are for example:

- humectants,

- perfumes,

- UV filters,

- thickening agents such as gelatin or vegetable gums, for example agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, gum arabic, karaya gum, carob gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays and phyllosilicates such as, for example. bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such as e.g. polyvinyl alcohol, Ca, Mg or Zn soaps,

- structuring agents such as maleic acid and lactic acid,

- dimethylisosorbide,

- cyclodextrins,

active ingredients improving the fibrous structure, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, and lactose,

- dyes for coloring the agent,

substances to adjust the pH, for example a- and βhydroxycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid,

- active ingredients such as bisabolol and / or allantoin,

- complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, palanin diacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

- ceramides. The term “ceramides” means n-acylsphingosine (sphingosine fatty acid amides) or the synthetic analogues of these lipids (called pseudo-ceramides),

- propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,

- antioxidants,

- preservatives, such as sodium benzoate or salicylic acid,

- other viscosity regulators, such as salts (NaCI).

A second object of the invention is the cosmetic use of the cleansing agent according to the invention for cleaning and caring for the skin, in particular for improving make-up removal and the feeling of touching the skin.

As regards the other preferred embodiments of the use according to the invention, what has been explained on the agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject of the present invention, without however limiting it.

Examples:

1. The following cleaning compositions were prepared (the quantities indicated are expressed in% by weight):

1 2 3 4 anionic surfactant based on isethionate a) 0,05- 15,00 0,10- 12,00 0,50- 10.00 1.00 to 7.50 anionic surfactant based on tau spleen b) 0,05- 15,00 0, ΙΟΙ 0.00 0.50 - 7.50 1.00 to 5.00 amphoteric surfactant 0,20- 30,00 0,50- 25.00 1,00- 15,00 2,00- 10.00 polyol 0,05- 10.00 0.10 to 8.00 0.50 to 6.00 1.00 to 5.00 oil 0.01 - 5.00 0.05 to 3.00 0.075 - 2.00 0.10 to 1.00

Water and possibly other adjuvants and additives ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

5 6 7 8 Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate and / or Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate 0,05- 15,00 0,10- 12,00 0,50- 10.00 1.00 to 7.50 anionic surfactant based on taurate b) 0,05- 15,00 0, ΙΟΙ 0.00 0.50 - 7.50 1.00 to 5.00 amphoteric surfactant 0,20- 30,00 0,50- 25.00 1,00- 15,00 2,00- 10.00 polyol 0,05- 10.00 0.10 to 8.00 0.50 to 6.00 1.00 to 5.00 oil 0.01 - 5.00 0.05 - 3.00 0.075 - 2.00 0.10 to 1.00 Water and possibly other adjuvants and additives ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

9 10 11 12 anionic surfactant based on isethionate a) 0,05- 15,00 0, ΙΟ- Ι 2.00 0,50- 10.00 1.00 to 7.50 Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate 0,05- 15,00 0, ΙΟ- Ι 0.00 0.50 - 7.50 1.00 to 5.00 amphoteric surfactant 0,20- 30,00 0,50- 25.00 1,00- 15,00 2,00- 10.00 polyol 0,05- 10.00 0.10 to 8.00 0.50 - 6.00 1.00 to 5.00 oil 0.01 - 5.00 0.05 to 3.00 0.075 - 2.00 0.10 to 1.00 Water and possibly other adjuvants and additives ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

13 14 15 16 anionic surfactant based on isethionate a) 0,05- 15,00 0,10- 12,00 0.50 - 10.00 1.00 - 7.50 anionic surfactant based on taurate b) 0,05- 15,00 0, ΙΟ- Ι 0.00 0.50 to 7.50 1.00 to 5.00 Cocamidopropyl betaine 0,20- 30,00 0,50- 25.00 1,00- 15,00 2,00- 10.00 polyol 0,05- 10.00 0.10 to 8.00 0.50 - 6.00 1.00 to 5.00 oil 0.01 - 5.00 0.05 - 3.00 0.075 - 2.00 0.10 to 1.00 Water and possibly other adjuvants and additives ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

17 18 19 20 anionic surfactant based on isethionate a) 0,05- 15,00 0,10- 12,00 0.50 - 10.00 1.00 - 7.50 anionic surfactant based on taurate b) 0,05- 15,00 0, ΙΟΙ 0.00 0.50 - 7.50 1.00 to 5.00 amphoteric surfactant 0,20- 30,00 0,50- 25.00 1,00- 15,00 2,00- 10.00 Glycerol and / or sorbitol 0,05- 10.00 0.10 to 8.00 0.50 - 6.00 1.00 to 5.00 oil 0.01 - 5.00 0.05 - 3.00 0.075 - 2.00 0.10 to 1.00 Water and possibly other adjuvants and additives ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

21 22 23 24 anionic surfactant based on isethionate a) 0,05- 15,00 0, ΙΟΙ 2.00 0,50- 10.00 1.00 to 7.50 anionic surfactant based on taurate b) 0,05- 15,00 0,10- 10.00 0.50 - 7.50 1.00 to 5.00

amphoteric surfactant 0,20- 30,00 0,50- 25.00 1,00- 15,00 2.00 - 10.00 polyol 0,05- 10.00 0.10 to 8.00 0.50 - 6.00 1.00 to 5.00 Natural oil and / or glycerol fatty acid ester 0.01 - 5.00 0.05 to 3.00 0.075 - 2.00 0.10 to 1.00 Water and possibly other adjuvants and additives ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

25 26 27 28 anionic surfactant based on isethionate a) 0,05- 15,00 0,10- 12,00 0,50- 10.00 1.00 to 7.50 anionic surfactant based on tau spleen b) 0,05- 15,00 0,10- 10.00 0.50 - 7.50 1.00 to 5.00 amphoteric surfactant 0,20- 30,00 0,50- 25.00 1,00- 15,00 2,00- 10.00 polyol 0,05- 10.00 0.10 to 8.00 0.50 to 6.00 1.00 to 5.00 Glyceryl oleate 0.01 - 5.00 0.05 to 3.00 0.075 - 2.00 0.10 to 1.00 Water and possibly other adjuvants and additives ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

29 30 31 32 anionic surfactant based on isethionate a) 0,05- 15,00 0,1012,00 0.50 - 10.00 1.00 to 7.50 anionic surfactant based on taurate b) 0,05- 15,00 0, ΙΟΙ 0.00 0.50 to 7.50 1.00 to 5.00 amphoteric surfactant 0,20- 30,00 0,50- 25.00 1,00- 15,00 2,00- 10.00 polyol 0,05- 10.00 0.10 to 8.00 0.50 - 6.00 1.00 to 5.00 oil 0.01 - 5.00 0.05 to 3.00 0.075 - 2.00 0.10 to 1.00

Alkyl (oligo) glycoside 0.05 to 5.00 0,075- 4.00 0.10 to 3.00 0.20 - 2.00 Water and possibly other adjuvants and additives ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

33 34 35 36 Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate and / or Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate 0,05- 15,00 0,10- 12,00 0,50- 10.00 1.00 to 7.50 Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate 0,05- 15,00 0, ΙΟ- Ι 0.00 0.50 - 7.50 1.00 to 5.00 Cocamidopropyl betaine 0,20- 30,00 0,50- 25.00 1,00- 15,00 2.00 - 10.00 polyol 0,05- 10.00 0.10 to 8.00 0.50 - 6.00 1.00 to 5.00 oil 0.01 - 5.00 0.05 - 3.00 0.075 - 2.00 0.10 to 1.00 Water and possibly other adjuvants and additives ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

37 38 39 40 Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate and / or Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate 0,05- 15,00 0,10- 12,00 0,50- 10.00 1.00 to 7.50 Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate 0,05- 15,00 0, ΙΟ- Ι 0.00 0.50 - 7.50 1.00 to 5.00 Cocamidopropyl betaine 0,20- 30,00 0,50- 25.00 1,00- 15,00 2,00- 10.00 Glycerol and / or sorbitol 0,05- 10.00 0.10 to 8.00 0.50 - 6.00 1.00 to 5.00 oil 0.01 - 5.00 0.05 - 3.00 0.075 - 2.00 0.10 to 1.00 Water and possibly other adjuvants and additives ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

41 42 43 44 Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate and / or Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate 0,05- 15,00 0,10- 12,00 0.50 - 10.00 1.00 to 7.50 Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate 0,05- 15,00 0, ΙΟ- Ι 0.00 0.50 to 7.50 1.00 to 5.00 Cocamidopropyl betaine 0,20- 30,00 0.50 - 25.00 1,00- 15,00 2,00- 10.00 Glycerol and / or sorbitol 0,05- 10.00 0.10 to 8.00 0.50 to 6.00 1.00 to 5.00 Glyceryl oleate 0.01 - 5.00 0.05 to 3.00 0.075 - 2.00 0.10 to 1.00 Water and possibly other adjuvants and additives ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

45 46 47 48 Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate and / or Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate 0,05- 15,00 0, ΙΟΙ 2.00 0,50- 10.00 1.00 to 7.50 Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate 0,05- 15,00 0, ΙΟ- Ι 0.00 0.50 - 7.50 1.00 - 5.00 Cocamidopropyl betaine 0,20- 30,00 0,50- 25.00 1,00- 15,00 2,00- 10.00 Glycerol and / or sorbitol 0,05- 10.00 0.10 to 8.00 0.50 to 6.00 1.00 to 5.00 Glyceryl oleate 0.01 - 5.00 0.05 to 3.00 0.075 - 2.00 0.10 to 1.00 Alkyl (oligo) glycoside, preferably Coco Glucoside 0.05 - 5.00 0.075 - 4.00 0.10 to 3.00 0.20 - 2.00 Water and possibly other adjuvants and additives ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

49 50 51 52 Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate and / or Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate 0,05- 15,00 0,10- 12,00 0,50- 10.00 1.00 to 7.50 Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate 0,05- 15,00 0, ΙΟ- Ι 0.00 0.50 - 7.50 1.00 to 5.00 Cocamidopropyl betaine 0,20- 30,00 0,50- 25.00 1,00- 15,00 2,00- 10.00 Glycerol and / or sorbitol 0,05- 10.00 0.10 to 8.00 0.50 to 6.00 1.00 to 5.00 Lamesoft® ¹ PO 65 0.05 - 5.00 0.10 to 4.00 0.20 - 3.00 0.30 - 2.00 Water and possibly other adjuvants and additives ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

53 54 55 56 lselux® ^z LQ-CLR-SB 9.50 9.50 10.00 11,00 Pureact® ³ WS Conc. 6.50 6.50 7.00 7.50 Cocamidopropyl betaine, 37% AS 18,00 18,00 20.00 22,00 Glycerol 2.00 2.00 1.50 2.00 sorbitol 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Lamesoft® ¹ PO 65 1.00 1.00 1.50 Sunflower oil 0.75 Acnacidol® ⁴ BG 0.10 panthenol 0.70 0.70 0.50 0.30 Herbasol® ⁵ Distillate White Tea 0.50 0.50 Herbasol® ⁶ Extract Aloe 0.50 0.70 Perfume 0.30 0.30 0.60 0.60 Water, acidifier, preservative ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

List of commercial products used:

INCI name: Coco Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Aqua; BASF ® ² name INCI: Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate (35-50% AS);

Innospec INCI name: Aqua, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Coconut Fatty Acid, Sodium Chloride (30-32% AS); Innospec name INCI: Butylene Glycol, 10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid, Sebacic Acid, 1,10-Decanediol; Ashland (ex Vincience) ® ⁵ INCI name: Propylene Glycol, Aqua, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract; Lipoid Cosmetics ®® INCI name: Propylene Glycol, Aqua, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract; Lipoid Cosmetics

2. Evaluation of the cleaning agents according to the invention

A micellar washing gel according to the invention (formulation 53 above) was tested and evaluated during a use test by 100 test participants, who were of different ages and sexes:

o 64% of subjects confirmed that the skin is well cleaned after use, o 86% of subjects confirmed that the skin appears to have been thoroughly cleaned after use, o 71% of subjects are generally satisfied with the cosmetic properties of the product, o 64% of subjects judged the skin sensation to be particularly soft and creamy during application, o 64% of subjects judged that the stability of the foam was good, o 72% of subjects judged that the rinsability and elimination of the composition were good, where 79% of the subjects judged that the distribution of the composition on wet skin was good.

Claims (15)

claims 1. Mild cosmetic cleaning agent, containing in a cosmetic support a) at least one anionic surfactant based on isethionate, b) at least one anionic surfactant based on taurate, c) at least one amphoteric surfactant, d) at least one polyol and e) at least one oil and / or a natural, mineral or synthetic fatty substance. 2. gentle cosmetic cleaning agent according to claim 1, characterized in that the combination of active principles a) to e) is present in an amount which leads to a detectable formation of micelles. 3. mild cosmetic cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the weight ratio resulting from the sum of the anionic surfactants a) and b) on the amphoteric surfactant (s) is worth from 1: 1 to 1: 3, preferably from 1: 1 to 1: 2 and in particular from 1: 1 to 1: 1.5. 4. Mild cosmetic cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, containing - relative to its weight - - from 0.05 to 15.00% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant based on isethionate a), - from 0.05 to 15.00% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant based on taurate b), - from 0.20 to 30.00% by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant c), - from 0.05 to 10.00% by weight of at least one polyol d) and - from 0.01 to 5.00% by weight of at least one oil and / or a natural, mineral or synthetic fatty substance e). 5. Gentle cosmetic cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, containing, as an anionic surfactant based on isethionate a), at least one compound of the following formula (I) (l) R ³ R ⁵ in which - R1 represents an alkyl radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, R2 to R5 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, and - M + represents an ammonium cation, an alkanolammonium cation or a metal cation. 6. Gentle cosmetic cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, containing, as an anionic surfactant based on taurate b), at least one compound of the following formula (II) R ⁷ R ⁹ N-ch ₃ r ⁸ --SO ₃ - M ⁺ R ¹⁰ (II) in which - R ⁶ represents an alkyl radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, R ⁷ to R ¹⁰ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, and - M ⁺ represents an ammonium cation, an alkanolammonium cation or a metal cation. 7. Mild cosmetic cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 6, containing - as an anionic surfactant based on isethionate a), at least one of the compounds known under the names INCI Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate or Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate and - As an anionic surfactant based on taurate b), a compound known under the name INCI Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate. 8. Mild cosmetic cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 7, containing, as amphoteric surfactant c), a compound known under the name INCI Cocamidopropylbetain. 9. gentle cosmetic cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 8, containing, as polyol d), 1,2-propanediol, glycerol, diglycerol, 1,6-hexanediol and / or Sorbitol, preferably glycerol and / or sorbitol. 10. Mild cosmetic cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 9, containing, as oil and / or natural, mineral or synthetic fatty substance e), at least one glycerol mono- or diester of a carboxylic acid linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated having 8 to 30 carbon atoms. 11. gentle cosmetic cleaning agent according to claim 10, containing, as oil and / or natural, mineral or synthetic fatty substance e), preferably an ester known under the name INCI Glyceryl Oleate. 12. Mild cosmetic cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 11, containing - relative to its weight - of more than 0.05 to 5.00% by weight of at least one nonionic surfactant, preferably of a alkyl (oligo) glucoside. 13. gentle cosmetic cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 12, containing - relative to its weight - more than 0.01 to 2.00% by weight of at least one active principle of skin care, preferably chosen among the active ingredients against acne, vitamins and / or extracts of 5 plants. 14. Mild cosmetic cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it is substantially free of sulfates and substantially free of alkoxylated compounds. 15. Cosmetic use of a mild cosmetic cleaning agent according to any one of claims 1 to 14 for cleaning and caring for the skin, in particular for improving make-up removal and the feeling of touching the skin.