FR3018044A1 - BASE OF FOAMING COSMETIC FORMULATION - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a foaming cosmetic formulation base comprising at least one anionic surfactant, at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one quaternized polysaccharide. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a foaming cosmetic formulation base and to the cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition comprising a foaming cosmetic formulation base. The present invention finds application particularly in the cosmetic and / or dermatological fields, for example in the field of hair and / or body hygiene.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a foaming cosmetic formulation base comprising at least one anionic surfactant, at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one quaternized polysaccharide. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising said formulation base and to the cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention. The present invention finds application particularly in the cosmetic and dermatological fields. In the description below, references in brackets ([]) refer to the list of references at the end of the text.

State of the art For many years, the cosmetic compositions for hair and / or body hygiene have, due to their detergent properties, a foaming power during application, for example on the skin and the hair. There are currently many different forms of cosmetic compositions for hair and / or body hygiene, such as soap bars, shower gels, shower oils. All of these different compositions share a common property when used, namely foaming power. The foaming aspect of cosmetic compositions for hair and / or body hygiene is an important aspect for the user. Indeed, the user generally assimilates the foaming effect to the detergent effect. In other words, a soap, a shampoo must for the user to foam what is assimilated to cleaning, for example skin and / or hair.

Also, much research has been conducted to obtain foaming cosmetic compositions and / or having a high foaming power. However, the foaming faculties of the compositions may cause viscosity and / or stability problems and / or due to the appearance of these compositions. Indeed, depending on the present components, it can appear, in particular, phase shift phenomena of the composition, significant liquefaction, etc. Commercially available foaming compositions are usually thickened by adding to the composition, especially sodium chloride, acrylic polymers, synthetic polymers, ethoxylated compounds and / or vegetable gums. However, these compounds effectively make it possible to thicken / improve the texture of the composition in the presence of certain surfactants. For example, sodium chloride is useful when it is combined in particular with sulphate-type surfactants but is inefficient when combined with softer surfactants, for example of the glutamate type. The vegetable gums work with all types of foam but greatly penalize the appearance, flow and sensoriality to the application of the product. In particular, in the case of capillary hygiene products, they penalize enormously the disentangling and sheathing properties of the compositions. Moreover, sulphate-type surfactants are well-known foaming agents, derived in particular from petroleum jelly and for which a carcinogenic potential is described in the literature. There is a real need to find new bases of cosmetic products, in particular new foaming cosmetic bases having a suitable texture whatever their use. There is also a real need to find new natural cosmetic foaming bases, having a suitable texture whatever their use.

In addition, there is also a real need to find new natural foaming cosmetic bases, for example without sulphated surfactants and / or synthetic thickeners, with suitable manufacturing costs and the industrial production of which is not an obstacle. DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention is specifically intended to meet these numerous needs by providing a foaming cosmetic formulation base comprising at least one anionic surfactant, at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one quaternized polysaccharide. In particular, the subject of the present invention is a foaming cosmetic formulation base comprising: at least one anionic surfactant: of formula (I) ## STR1 ## wherein R 1 is a carbon chain of C 3 to C 20 fatty acids, M + represents an alkali metal, OR 2 0 - at least one anionic surfactant of formula (II) wherein M 2 is a carbon chain of C 3 to C 20 fatty acids and M + represents an alkali metal, or a mixture of said anionic surfactants of formula (I) or (II), and at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from: an alkylpolyglucoside of formula (III) embedded image wherein n is an integer of 1 to 10 and R 3 is C 8 to C 20 alkyl, and a glycerol ester of formula (IV) wherein R 4 is a carbon chain of fatty acids in Cs to C20, or a mixture of said nonionic surfactant selected from an alkylpolyglucoside of formula (III) and said glycosyl ester erol of formula (IV), and - at least one quaternized polysaccharide: - of formula (V) H 1 0 OH R8 m (V) in which m represents the number of repeats of the basic formula of the quaternized polysaccharide, R5, R6 , R7, are independently a hydrogen atom, a C1 to C10 alkyl and X- represents a halide ion, R8 a hydroxyl group or an ose and R9 a hydrogen atom or an ose, and / or - at least one quaternized polysaccharide of formula of formula (V), wherein I represents the number of repeats of the basic formula of the quaternized polysaccharide, R10, R11, R12, R13 and R14 are independently -CH2- CHOH-CH2-N + (R17) 3, each occurrence of R17, is independently C1-C10 alkyl, R15 and R16 are independently hydrogen or anose. Each amine group of R10, R11, R12, R13 and R14 can be independently associated with an X1- halide ion. In other words, the subject of the present invention is a foaming cosmetic formulation base comprising: at least one anionic surfactant of formula (I) and / or (II), at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from an alkylpolyglucoside of formula (III) and / or a glycerol ester of formula (IV), and - at least one quaternized polysaccharide of formula (V) or (VI) as defined above. As used herein, the term "cosmetic foaming formulation base" refers to a base which can be used for the manufacture of cosmetic products. In particular, the foaming cosmetic formulation base may, for example, have a foaming power suitable for cosmetic use. As used herein, the term "alkali metal" means a chemical element of the first column group 1, except hydrogen from the periodic table of elements. It may be, for example, a metal chosen from lithium (Li), sodium (Na), potassium (K), rubidium (Rb), cesium (Cs) and francium (Fr). As used herein, "halide ion" means a negative ion (anion) formed from a chemical element of the halogen family. It may be, for example, an ion selected from the group comprising the fluoride ion (F-), the chloride ion (CI-), the bromide ion (Br), the iodide ion (I) -) and the astature ion (Ar). In the present invention, "C 1 -C 4 alkyl" is understood to mean a linear or branched aliphatic carbon chain which may comprise from x to y carbon atoms, for example from 1 to 20 carbon atoms. As used herein, the term "carbon chain of fatty acids" is intended to mean any linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carbon chain corresponding to a carbon chain of fatty acids known to those skilled in the art. It can be a carbon chain obtained from a fatty acid selected from the group consisting of caprylic acid, capric acid, caproic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, dodecanoic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, sapenic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, trans-vaccenic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, α-linolenic acid, γ-linolenic acid, dihomo-γ-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, clupanodonic acid. In the present "dare" means any dare known to those skilled in the art. It may be for example a triose, tetrose, pentose, hexose.

It may be, for example, a hexose selected from the group consisting of allose, altrose, galactose, glucose, gulose, idose, mannose, talose, fructose, psicose, sorbose, tagatose. In the present invention, the radical R 1 of the anionic surfactant of formula (I) may be a carbon chain of C 6 to C 16 fatty acids, a carbon chain of C 12 to C 16 fatty acids, a carbon chain of C 14 fatty acids. . It may be, for example, a carbon chain of a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, it may be for example a carbon chain of fatty acids selected from the group comprising caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, dodecanoic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, sapenic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, trans-vaccenic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, alinolenic acid, γ-linolenic acid, dihomo-γ-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, clupanodonic acid or a mixture thereof. Advantageously, the radical R 1 of the anionic surfactant of formula (I) may be a saturated carbon chain of C 12 to C 16 fatty acids, a carbon chain of C 14 fatty acids. In the present invention, the M + ion of the anionic surfactant of formula (I) and / or (II) may advantageously be an alkali metal of a metal chosen from lithium (Li), sodium (Na), potassium (K ), rubidium (Rb), cesium (Cs) and francium (Fr). It may be, for example, an alkali metal of a metal selected from lithium (Li), sodium (Na), potassium (K). Advantageously, the M + ion of the anionic surfactant of formula (I) can be a sodium ion (Na). In the present invention, the radical R2 of the anionic surfactant of formula (II) can advantageously be a carbon chain of C6 to C20 fatty acids, a carbon chain of C8 to C18 fatty acids. It may be, for example, a carbon chain of a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, it may be for example a carbon chain of fatty acids selected from the group comprising caprylic acid. capric acid, auric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, dodecanoic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, sapenic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, trans-vaccenic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, α-linolenic acid, linolenic acid, dihomo-γ-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, clupanodonic acid or a mixture thereof Advantageously, the radical R2 of the anionic surfactant of formula (II) may be an unsaturated carbon chain of C8 to C18 fatty acid. said at least one anionic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium ocoyl glycinate or a mixture thereof.

Advantageously, the anionic surfactant may be an anionic surfactant of formula (VII).

Herein, said at least one anionic surfactant described above may be commercially available. It may be, for example, sodium myristoyl glutamate marketed by Quimasso under the trade name Protelan MGL-E (registered trademark). In the present invention, said at least one anionic surfactant may be present in the foaming cosmetic formulation base at a concentration of from 1 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of said foaming cosmetic formulation base, for example from 1 to 30% by weight. % by weight relative to the total weight of said cosmetic foaming formulation base, from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said foaming cosmetic formulation base, of 10 to 14% by weight relative to the total weight of said cosmetic foaming formulation base. In the present invention, the radical R 3 of the nonionic surfactant of formula (III) may be linear or branched C 8 to C 20 alkyl. It may be, for example, an alkyl group chosen from the group comprising the octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, myristyl, palmitic, stearic or arachidic group or a mixture thereof. In the present invention, the n of the nonionic surfactant of formula (III) can be an integer from 1 to 8, from 1 to 6, from 1 to 5.

In the present invention, the radical R4 of the nonionic surfactant of formula (IV) may be a carbon chain of C 8 to C 20 fatty acids, a carbon chain of C 10 to C 18 fatty acids, a carbon chain of fatty acids in the form of C12 to C18, a carbon chain of C14 to C18 fatty acids, a carbon chain of C14 to C18 fatty acids. It may be, for example, a carbon chain of a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, it may be for example a carbon chain of fatty acids selected from the group comprising caprylic acid. capric acid, auric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, dodecanoic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, sapienic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, trans-vaccenic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, α-linolenic acid, γ-linolenic acid, dihomo-γ-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, clupanodonic acid or a mixture thereof Advantageously, the carbon chain of the radical R 4 of the anionic surfactant of formula (IV) can be an unsaturated carbon chain chosen from the group comprising the carbon chain of stearic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic acid or a mixture thereof. feel, said at least one nonionic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of coco-glucoside, glyceryl oleate or a mixture thereof.

Advantageously, the nonionic surfactant may be an anionic surfactant chosen from the group comprising the compound of formula (VIII): ## STR2 ## in which n may be an integer ranging from 1 to And R can be a C8-C16 alkyl coco, and formula (IX) or a mixture thereof; Herein, said at least one nonionic surfactant described above may be commercially available. It may be, for example, an alkylpolyglucoside marketed by BASF under the trade name PLANTACARE (registered trademark), for example PLANTACARE 818 UP (registered trademark), a glycerol ester, for example a glyceryl oleate marketed by the Company. BASF under the commercial reference LAMESOFT P065 (registered trademark).

In the present invention, said at least one nonionic surfactant may be present in the foaming cosmetic formulation base at a concentration of from 0.5 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of said foaming cosmetic formulation base, for example 1 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of said cosmetic foaming formulation base, from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of said foaming cosmetic formulation base, from 3 to 5% by weight relative to the weight total of said foaming cosmetic formulation base, from 3.5 to 4.5% by weight relative to the total weight of said foaming cosmetic formulation base.

In the present invention, the radical R 5 of the quaternized polysaccharide of formula (V) may advantageously be a C 1 to C 6, C 1 to C 5, C 1 to C 3 or C 1 to C 2 alkyl. Advantageously, the radical R5 may be a methyl, ethyl, butyl, propyl, pentyl or hexyl group. Advantageously, the radical R5 may be a methyl group.

In the present invention, the radical R 6 of the quaternized polysaccharide of formula (V) may advantageously be a C 1 to C 6, C 1 to C 5, C 1 to C 3 or C 1 to C 2 alkyl. Advantageously, the radical R 6 may be a methyl, ethyl, butyl, propyl, pentyl or hexyl group.

Advantageously, the radical R 6 may be a methyl group. In the present invention, the radical R7 of the quaternized polysaccharide of formula (V) may advantageously be a C1 to C6, a C1 to C5, a C1 to C3 or a C1 to C2 alkyl. Advantageously, the radical R7 may be a methyl, ethyl, butyl, propyl, pentyl or hexyl group.

Advantageously, the radical R7 can be a methyl group. In the present invention, the radical R 8 of the quaternized polysaccharide of formula (V) may advantageously be a hydroxyl group or an ose chosen from the group comprising allose, altrose, galactose, glucose, gulose, idose, mannose, talose, fructose, psicose, sorbose and tagatose. Advantageously, the radical R8 may be a hydroxyl group. Herein, the radical R 9 of the quaternized polysaccharide of formula (V) may be advantageously a hydrogen atom or an ose selected from the group consisting of allose, altrose, galactose, glucose, gulose idiocy, mannose, talose, fructose, psicose, sorbose and tagatose. Advantageously, the radical R 9 may be a hydrogen atom. In the present invention, the X-halide of the quaternized polysaccharide surfactant of formula (V) may be selected from the group consisting of fluoride ion (F-), chloride ion (CI-), bromide ion (Br) , the iodide ion (I-) and the astature ion (Ar). Advantageously, the halogenide X- of the quaternized polysaccharide surfactant of formula (V) may be chosen from the group comprising the fluoride ion (F-) and the chloride ion (CI-). Advantageously, the halogenide X- of the quaternized polysaccharide surfactant of formula (V) may be the chloride ion (Cl-).

In the present, m representing the number of repeats of the basic formula of the polysaccharide of formula (V) may be a number such that the average molecular weight of the polysaccharide of formula (V) may be from 5 × 10 5 to 3 × 10 6 Da, advantageously from 1x106 to 2x106Da.

In the present, m representing the number of repeats of the basic formula of the polysaccharide of formula (V) can be a number such that the cationic charge of the polysaccharide of formula (V) can be from 0.3 meq / g to 3 , 5, from 0.3 to 1.2 meq / g, advantageously from 0.8 meq / g to 1.1 meq / g.

In the present invention, the radical R10 of the quaternized polysaccharide of formula (VI) may advantageously be a -CH 2 -CHOH-CH 2 -W (R 17) 3 group, in which each occurrence of R 17 may advantageously and independently be a C 1 to C 8 alkyl. , C1 to C5, C1 to C3, C1 to C2. Advantageously, each occurrence of R17 may independently be a methyl, ethyl, butyl, propyl, pentyl or hexyl group. Advantageously, each occurrence of R17 may be a methyl group. In the present invention, the radical R 11 of the quaternized polysaccharide of formula (VI) may advantageously be a -CH 2 -CHOH-CH 2 -N + (R 17) 3 group, in which each occurrence of R 17 may advantageously and independently be a C 1 to C 8 alkyl. , C1 to C5, C1 to C3, C1 to C2. Advantageously, each occurrence of R17 may independently be a methyl, ethyl, butyl, propyl, pentyl or hexyl group. Advantageously, each occurrence of R17 may be a methyl group. In the present invention, the radical R12 of the quaternized polysaccharide of formula (VI) may advantageously be a -CH 2 -CHOH-CH 2 -W (R 17) 3 group, in which each occurrence of R 17 may advantageously and independently be a C 1 to C 8 alkyl. , C1 to C5, C1 to C3, C1 to C2. Advantageously, each occurrence of R17 may independently be a methyl, ethyl, butyl, propyl, pentyl or hexyl group. Advantageously, each occurrence of R17 may be a methyl group. In the present invention, the radical R 13 of the quaternized polysaccharide of formula (VI) may advantageously be a -CH 2 -CHOH-CH 2 -N + (R 17) 3 group, in which each occurrence of R 17 may advantageously and independently be a C 1 to C 6 alkyl. , C1 to C5, C1 to C3, C1 to C2. Advantageously, each occurrence of R17 may advantageously and independently be a methyl, ethyl, butyl, propyl, pentyl or hexyl group. Advantageously, each occurrence of R17 may be a methyl group. In the present invention, the radical R 14 of the quaternized polysaccharide of formula (VI) can advantageously be a -CH 2 -CHOH-CH 2 -W (R 17) 3 group, in which each occurrence of R 17 can advantageously and independently be a C 1 to C 6 alkyl. , C1 to C5, C1 to C3, C1 to C2. Advantageously, each occurrence of R17 may independently be a methyl, ethyl, butyl, propyl, pentyl or hexyl group. Advantageously, each occurrence of R17 may be a methyl group. In the present invention, the halogenide X- of the quaternized polysaccharide surfactant of formula (VI) may be chosen from the group comprising the fluoride ion (F-), the chloride ion (CI-) and the bromide ion (Br). the iodide ion (I-) and the astature ion (Ar). Advantageously, the halogenide X- of the quaternized polysaccharide surfactant of formula (V) may be chosen from the group comprising the fluoride ion (F-) and the chloride ion (CI-). Advantageously, the halogenide X- of the quaternized polysaccharide surfactant of formula (V) may be the chloride ion (Cl-). Herein, the radical R 15 of the quaternized polysaccharide of formula (VI) may be advantageously a hydrogen atom or an ose chosen from the group comprising allose, altrose, galactose, glucose, gulose, idose, mannose, talose, fructose, psicose, sorbose and tagatose. Advantageously, the radical R15 may be a hydrogen atom. In the present invention, the radical R 16 of the quaternized polysaccharide of formula (VI) can advantageously be a hydrogen atom or an ose, advantageously a hexose chosen from the group comprising allose, altrose, galactose, glucose and gulose. , idiosis, mannose, talose, fructose, psicosis, sorbose and tagatose. Advantageously, the radical R16 may be a hydroxyl group. In the present invention, I representing the number of repeats of the basic formula of the polysaccharide of formula (VI) may be a number such that the average molecular weight of the polysaccharide of formula (VI) may be from 4x105 to 1 X 1 06 Da preferably from 4.5x105 to 6x105 Da. In the present invention, I representing the number of repeats of the basic formula of the polysaccharide of formula (VI) can be a number such that the cationic charge of the quaternized polysaccharide of formula (VI) can be from 0.3 to 3.5. meq / g, 1.5 meq / g to 3.5 meq / g, 1.8 meq / g to 3.1 meq / g, preferably 1.9 to 3 meq / g. In the present invention, the halide X1- may be chosen from the group comprising the fluoride ion (F-), the chloride ion (CI-), the bromide ion (Br), the iodide ion (I-) and the astature ion (Ar). Advantageously, the halide X1- may be chosen from the group comprising the fluoride ion (F-) and the chloride ion (CI-). Advantageously, the halide X1- may be the chloride ion (CI-). As used herein, the quaternized polysaccharide may be selected from the group consisting of hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium cassia chloride or a mixture thereof. As used herein, the quaternized polysaccharide may be a commercially available quaternized polysaccharide. It may be, for example, a quaternized polysaccharide marketed by SACI under the trade name Jaguar C17 SH (registered trademark), a quaternized polysaccharide marketed by SACI under the trade name Jaguar Excel (registered trademark), a quaternized polysaccharide marketed by Lubrizol under the trade name sensormer CT-250 polymer (trademark), a quaternized polysaccharide marketed by Lubrizol under the trade name sensormer CT-400 polymer (trademark). Advantageously, the quaternized polysaccharide may be a quaternized polysaccharide chosen from the group comprising the compound of formula (X): in which m is as defined above and / or of formula (XI) OH Wherein the number of repeats of the basic formula of the polysaccharide of formula (XI) and / or of formula (XII) OH (XII) wherein 12 represents the number of repeats of the basic formula polysaccharide of formula (XII) In the present, representing the number of repeats of the basic formula of the polysaccharide of formula (XI) may be a number such that the cationic charge of the quaternized polysaccharide of formula (XI) may be from 0 to 3 to 3.5 meq / g, 1.5 meq / g to 3.5 meq / g, 1.8 meq / g to 3.1 meq / g, preferably 1.9 to 3 meq / g . Herein, 12 representing the number of repeats of the basic formula of the polysaccharide of formula (XII) may be a number such that the cationic charge of the quaternized polysaccharide of formula (XII) OH may be from 0.3 to 3 5 meq / g, 1.5 meq / g to 3.5 meq / g, 1.8 meq / g to 3.1 meq / g, preferably 1.9 to 3 meq / g. In the present invention, the quaternized polysaccharide may be present in the foaming cosmetic formulation base at a concentration of from 0.05 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of said foaming cosmetic formulation base, for example from 0.05 to 0.9% by weight relative to the total weight of said cosmetic foaming formulation base, from 0.15 to 0.85% by weight relative to the total weight of said foaming cosmetic formulation base, of 0.3 to 0, 8% by weight relative to the total weight of said foaming cosmetic formulation base. In the present invention, advantageously the foaming cosmetic formulation base comprises: at least one anionic surfactant of formula (I) and / or (II), at least one nonionic surfactant of formula (VIII) or of formula (IX) or a mixture thereof, and - at least one quaternized polysaccharide of formula (X) and / or (XI) and / or (XII) as defined above.

Herein, the foaming cosmetic formulation base can be at a pH of 4.5 to 7, 5 to 6.5, 5.1 to 5.6, 5.3 to 5.5. Advantageously, when the pH of the foaming cosmetic formulation base is from 5.1 to 5.6, it is very stable while advantageously having a viscosity of from 500 mPa.s to 5000 mPa.s, for example included from 600 mPa.s to 4000 mPa.s, for example a viscosity of 800 to 3200 mPa.s, of 1000 mPa.s at 3000mPa.s, of 1000 mPa.s of 2000 mPa.s or 3000 mPa.s. In the present, the measurement of the viscosity can be carried out, in particular at a temperature of 20 ° C, with stirring at a speed of 60 revolutions per minute with, for example a Brookfield viscometer (trade mark) comprising for example a mobile RV4.

The inventors have unexpectedly demonstrated that the foamable cosmetic formulation base according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to obtain a texture, an improved viscosity compared to known cosmetic compositions, while having a high foaming power, and this in itself. absence of any sulfated surfactant and / or any synthetic thickener. Also, the foaming cosmetic formulation base according to the invention may be free of sulphated surfactants and / or synthetic thickeners.

Advantageously, the present invention makes it possible to increase the naturalness of the foaming cosmetic formulation base while preserving the properties of stability, preservation, texture without sulphated surfactants and / or any synthetic thickener, products which are likely to be debated at the regulatory level. , both on the health aspect and on the ecological aspect. In the present, the foaming cosmetic formulation base may comprise one or more adjuvants known to those skilled in the art, with the exception of sulphated surfactants and / or any synthetic thickener. It may be, for example, one or more adjuvants chosen from amphoteric surfactant agents, ester agents, moisturizing agents, emollient agents, mineral thickeners, organic thickeners, associative or not, silicone compounds, perfumes, preservatives, ceramides, and pseudoceramides, vitamins and provitamins, proteins, sequestering agents, alkanizing agents, acidifying agents, reducing agents, antioxidants , mineral fillers, colorants or any other adjuvant with the exception of sulphated surfactants and / or any synthetic thickener which may be cited in the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) published by the PCPC (Personal Care Products Council) .

The foaming cosmetic formulation base according to the invention can be used as a cosmetic composition base. Advantageously, the foaming cosmetic composition base according to the invention can be used as a cosmetic composition base for hair and / or body hygiene. The present invention therefore also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a foaming cosmetic formulation base according to the invention. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may have a texture suitable for any cosmetic use for hair and / or body hygiene. It may be for example a texture like shampoo, shower gel, lotion and / or micellar lotion. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can, by virtue of the foaming cosmetic formulation base, have an increased stability while having a very high foaming and / or detergent power during use. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may preferably have a viscosity of from 500 mPa.s to 5000 mPa.s, for example from 600 mPa.s to 4000 mPa.s, for example a viscosity of 800 to 3200 mPa.s. .s, 1000 mPa.s at 3000mPa.s, 1000 mPa.s, 2000 mPa.s or 3000 mPa.s. The measurement of the viscosity can be carried out according to the process defined above. The composition of the present invention may for example comprise a cosmetic formulation base according to the invention in a proportion of 50 to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The proportion may for example be between 60 and 99.9%, or between 65 and 99.9%, or between 75 and 99.9%. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise one or more components that can be used in cosmetics, for example one or more cosmetic active agents known to those skilled in the art. It may be for example an anti-aging agent, a moisturizing agent, a soothing agent, an agent acting on the microcirculation, a firming agent, a tightening agent or a mixture of these agents. These agents may be those commonly used in cosmetic and / or dermatological products.

Examples of useful anti-aging agents may be, for example, oat extract. Examples of moisturizing agents that may be used may be, for example, glycerine or hyaluronic acid. Examples of soothing agents that may be used may be, for example, bisabolol or allantoin. Examples of agents acting on the microcirculation may be for example extracts of corallina officinalis. Examples of firming agents may be, for example, a rye extract (rich in arabinoxylans), tensing agents, for example hibiscus oligopeptides. This or these agent (s) may be used in the composition of the present invention for example at the concentrations usually used and known to those skilled in the cosmetic or dermatological compositions. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise a cosmetic active ingredient obtained from a plant, for example a plant extract, an essential oil and / or any extract that may be obtained from a plant material. It may be for example an extract obtained from all or part of a plant, for example flowers, stems, buds, fruits, roots, flower heads, twigs, bark , of radioles. It may be, for example, an extract of immortelle (Helichrysum Italicum), angelica, almond, cade, rosemary, sandalwood, chestnut, coriander, camelina, evening primrose, borage, apples, rice, goat queen, lemon, myrtle, clover, sea lily, wintergreen, narcissus, white lupine, daisy, iris, pine , raspberry, blackcurrant, beech or any mixture thereof.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise a natural cosmetic active ingredient and / or obtained from nature. This may be, for example, honey, for example acacia honey, thyme honey or orange honey. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a cosmetic formulation base according to the invention, such as as defined herein, and one or more active principle (s). In the present, by cosmetic composition is meant any cosmetic composition known to those skilled in the art. It may be for example a topical composition, a hair composition. The cosmetic or dermatological composition may be, for example a composition for the care of the face, body, hair, for example compositions for the face and / or the body and / or the hair. The cosmetic composition may comprise one or more adjuvants known to those skilled in the art. This may be, for example, one or more adjuvants chosen from among ester-type agents, moisturizing agents, emollient agents, mineral thickeners, organic thickeners, associative or non-associative, silicone compounds, perfumes, preservatives, ceramides, and pseudoceramides, vitamins and provitamins, proteins, sequestering agents, alkanizing agents, acidifying agents, reducing agents, oxidizing agents, mineral fillers, colorants or any other adjuvant that may be listed in the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) published by the PCPC (Personal Care Products council).

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise a concentration by weight relative to the total weight of the extract of cosmetic active ingredients of 0.001 to 50%, for example from 0.01 to 40%, 0.01 to 35%, or from 0.01 to 25%. Advantageously, the foaming cosmetic formulation base and / or the cosmetic composition comprising the foaming cosmetic formulation base according to the invention has a stability and a viscosity suitable for any cosmetic use. Advantageously, the foaming cosmetic formulation base and / or the cosmetic composition comprising the foaming cosmetic formulation base according to the invention has emulsifying and foaming properties making it particularly suitable for use as a hygiene product, for example a hair product, for example as a shampoo, as a conditioner, for example bodily, for example as soap, shower gel, exfoliating composition, makeup remover composition. Other advantages may still appear to those skilled in the art on reading the examples below illustrated by the appended figures, given for illustrative purposes.

EXAMPLES Example 1 Foaming Cosmetic Base Example In order to produce a foaming cosmetic base, the following devices were used: a Turbotest VMI mechanical stirrer equipped with a deflocculator, glass beakers for manufacturing, weighing and premixing, and scales and spatulas for weighing. The manufacture of the foaming cosmetic base was carried out using the ingredients mentioned in Table 1 below: Table 1: ingredients for the manufacture of the foaming cosmetic base. Designation Ingredients DEMINERALIZED WATER B JAGUAR C 17 SH (hydroxypropyltrimonum guar chloride) C 10% CITRIC ACID SOLUTION D PRESERVERS E DEHYTON AB 30 (Coco-Betaine) F PROTELAN MGL-E (sodium myristoyl glutamate) G PLANTACARE 818 UP (coco-glucoside) PERFUME H COSMETIC ASSETS I pH ADJUSTER The JAGUAR C 17 SH (hydroxypropyltrimonum guar chloride) is marketed by SACI, the DEHYTON AB 30 (registered trademark) (Coco-Betaine) is marketed by BASF, the PROTELAN MGL-E (registered trademark) (sodium myristoyl glutamate) is marketed by the company QUIMASSO and the PLANTACARE 818 UP (registered trademark) (coco-glucoside) is marketed by BASF. The process used for the manufacture of the foaming cosmetic base was carried out at ambient temperature, namely 20 ° C. under deflocculating and comprised the following steps: Preparation of a mixture G, namely comprising Plantacare 818 UP and perfume by stirring with a spatula in a beaker. Leave on hold, - Weigh A, namely the demineralised water, in a beaker and make moderate stirring, ie 300 revolutions minutes, then - Sprinkle B, namely the JAGUAR C 17 SH with stirring at 300 rpm - Add C, ie a 10% citric acid solution with stirring at 800 rpm and allow to homogenize 10 minutes. - Add to the homogeneous solution in the order stirring at 800 rpm 20 minutes D, that is to say, the preservatives, then E: the Dehyton AB 30 with stirring at 700 rpm, then F: the protelan MGL -E at 700 rpm, each addition being made after homogenization of the composition, - Add the mixture comprising Plantacare 818 UP and perfume 25 with stirring at 900 rpm - Add H, namely a cosmetic active stirring at a speed 600 rpm, and - check the pH then add all or part of I according to the desired pH.

Thus, about 1.5 kg of cosmetic composition comprising a foaming base detailed in Table 2 below has been prepared. Table 2: Cosmetic composition comprising a foaming cosmetic base Ingredients percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition WATER DEMINERALIZED QSP 100 JAGUAR C 17 SH 0.30 10% CITRIC ACID SOLUTION QS CONSERVERS QS DEHYTON AB 30 9.00 PROTELAN MGL-E 28.00 PLANTACARE 818 UP 3.5 PERFUME QS COSMETIC ASSETS QS QS pH ADJUSTER The cosmetic composition obtained has a texture and viscosity similar to those obtained with foaming cosmetic bases comprising, especially sulphated surfactants or synthetic thickeners. . In addition, the cosmetic composition obtained comprising the foaming base had a strong foaming, a texture and viscosity suitable both for use for personal hygiene and hair. EXAMPLE 2 Comparative Examples Between a Cosmetic Base According to the Invention and Known Bases In this example, seven different cosmetic compositions comprising different foaming cosmetic bases were prepared according to the process described in Example 1 in which different anionic surfactants, Nonionic surfactants and quaternized polysaccharides were used. The cosmetic compositions prepared correspond to compositions for hair hygiene, namely shampoos.

The compounds used were the following: AMISOFT CS22 (registered trademark) marketed by UNIPEX (Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate and Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate) - ORAMIX CG 110 (registered trademark) sold by the company SEPPIC (CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC GLUCOSIDE) - PROTELAN LS 9011 P (trade mark) marketed by the company QUIMASSO (SODIUM LAUROYL SARCOSINATE) Table 3: Composition and percentage by weight of the ingredients of the 7 compositions for hair hygiene Compositions 1 2 3 Ingredients SHAMPOO SHAMPOO REPAIR SHAMPOO REPAIR REPAIRER ACID CITRIC 1.5 1,51 1,51 MONOHYDRATE '' WATER OSMOSED 'QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100' PLANTACARE 818 3,35 3,35 3,35 UP '' LAMESOFT PO 65 '1,5 1,5 - ORAMIX CG 110' - - - 'AMISOFT CS 22' 36,00 - - 'GLYCERIN' 3 3 - PRESERVATIVES QS QS QS ACTIVE QS QS QS 'DEHYTON AB 30' 8,93 8,93 8,93 'PROTELAN LS - - -' PROTELAN MGL-E '- 25.4 25.4 JAGUAR C 17 SH' 0.25 0.25 0.25 'BP' 0.4 0.4 0.4 Compositions 4 5 6 7 Ingredients SHAMPOOIN SHAMPOO SHAMPOO SHAMPOO GG NG G REPAIR REPAIR REPAIR REPARATURE RR UR R ACID 1,5 1,57 1,37 1,37 CITRIC WATER MONOHYDRATE OSMOSED 'QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100' PLANTACARE 818 UP '3 , 35 3,35 3,3500 - 'LAM ESOFT PO 3,0 1,5 1,5 1,5 65' ORAMIX CG - - - 3,35 110 '' AMISOFT CS 36,07 10 - - 22 '' GLYCERIN '3 3 3 3 CONSERVATED QS QS QS QS RS ACTIVE QS QS QS QS' DEHYTON AB 8,93 8,93 8,93 8,93 30 '' PROTELAN LS - - 8,62 8,62 'PROTELAN - 18,3500 18,3500 18,3500 MGL-E 'JAGUAR C 17 0.2500 0.2500 0.2500 0.2500 SH' 'BP' 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 In the table below, values correspond to the percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of each of the ingredients.

The viscosity and stability of each of these compositions were evaluated. To do this, the viscosity measurement was performed with a Brookfield viscometer with a mobile RV4 at a temperature of 20 ° C with stirring at a rotation speed of 60 rpm.

The results obtained with the various compositions are summarized in Table 4 below: Table 4: viscosity measured as a function of the composition Composition 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 s Viscosity in mPa.s Nm ± 1000 Nm Nm Nm ± 1000 Nm As demonstrated in the table above, the compositions comprising at least the anionic surfactant, nonionic surfactant and quaternized polysaccharide within the meaning of the present invention makes it possible to obtain a viscosity and a suitable texture. The other compositions tested remained liquid and did not make it possible to obtain an acceptable cosmetic composition. In particular, the results clearly demonstrate that the additional addition of anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants in the foaming cosmetic base according to the invention can cause a deleterious effect as to the texture and / or stability of the composition. A study of the influence of pH, anionic surfactant content and quaternary polysaccharide was also performed. In order to study a possible effect of pH on the hair composition comprising a foaming cosmetic base according to the invention, two compositions comprising the foaming cosmetic base were produced according to the method described in Example 1 and corresponded to the compositions 1 and 2 above. in which the quaternized polysaccharide namely JAGUAR C 17 SH, was at a concentration of respectively 0.3% or 0.4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. A measurement of the viscosity according to the method described above was carried out. The results as a function of the pH are summarized in the tables below: Table 5: viscosity measured according to the composition and the pH Composition 1 comprising 0.3% by weight of JAGUAR C 17 SH relative to the total weight of the composition pH 5.30 5.40 5.50 Viscosity in 3000 900 Nm mPa.s-1 Composition 1 comprising 0.4% by weight of JAGUAR C 17 SH relative to the total weight of the composition pH 5.35 5.40 5 Viscosity in 2000 1800 1300 mPa.s-1 As shown in Table 5 above, the pH can influence the viscosity of the hair compositions comprising the foaming cosmetic base. In order to study the effect of the anionic surfactant content on the foaming cosmetic base, a hair cosmetic composition was produced according to the method described in Example 1. The formulation of the composition is described in Table 10 below. wherein a variation of the anionic surfactant concentration: sodium Myristoyl glutamate (Protelan MGL-E) was performed. To do this, an evaluation of the stability of the composition was carried out according to the following method: all the tests were followed for 8 weeks. Each product was divided into 4 samples placed in glass pills at 4 ° C, 42 ° C, 50 ° C and the last at room temperature (RT), ie 20 ° C: - At 15 days and 4 weeks, the sample at RT was compared with the sample at 50 ° C. At 8 weeks, the sample at RT was compared with samples at 42 ° and 42 ° C. At each comparison, an observation of the homogeneity in mass, appearance, color and odor of the samples was made. The compositions were considered unstable when solid deposition of the polysaccharide present in the composition was visually observed at the bottom of the pillbox. The results obtained as a function of the percentage by weight of the anionic surfactant in the composition relative to the total weight of the composition are summarized in Table 6 below: Myristoyl glutamate 7% 14% 15% sodium Percentage by weight relative to the total weight Stability Yes Yes No As demonstrated in Table 6 above, the concentration of the anionic surfactant in the foaming cosmetic base has an effect on the texture and stability of the cosmetic composition comprising said foaming cosmetic base.

In addition, a study of the texture of the cosmetic composition comprising the foaming base as a function of different polysaccharides was studied. To do this, a hair cosmetic composition was produced according to the method described in Example 1. The formulation of the composition is described in Table 10 below in which the quaternary polysaccharide varied. A measurement of the viscosity of the various compositions was carried out according to the method described above. The various polysaccharides tested, their concentrations, the cationic charge and the results obtained are summarized in Table 7 below. Ingredients Molecular Weight Cationic Charge Viscosity in (g / mol) mPa.s Jaguar C 162 0.3 600 Jaguar Excel 1000 000 - 0.5 - 0.8 900 1,500,000 Jaguar C 17 SH 2,000,000 1.04 1100 Guar 14s 2,000,000 0.72 nm As shown in Table 7 above, the composition according to the invention comprising a quaternized polysaccharide within the meaning of the present invention, namely for example Excel Jaguar, Jaguar C 17 SH makes it possible to obtain a composition with a viscosity for example between 900 and 1100 mPa.s which advantageously adapted for a cosmetic use for l 'hygiene. This example also clearly demonstrates that compositions which do not comprise quaternized polysaccharides within the meaning of the present invention do not make it possible to obtain a foaming cosmetic formulation base with a suitable viscosity for, for example, a cosmetic use for hygiene. As demonstrated in this example, the foaming cosmetic base according to the invention has a texture and stability similar or superior to known cosmetic bases comprising sulphated surfactants and / or synthetic thickeners.

In addition, as demonstrated in this example, the cosmetic base according to the invention can be used in order to obtain cosmetic compositions for hair and body hygiene without any sulphated surfactants and / or synthetic thickeners, thus making it possible to obtain cosmetic compositions with high naturalness, whatever the cosmetic active ingredient present in the composition. Example 3: Example of cosmetic compositions comprising a foaming cosmetic base In this example, three different cosmetic compositions comprising a foaming cosmetic base were prepared according to the process described in Example 1. A measurement of the viscosity of each composition obtained was carried out according to the method described in Example 2 above.

The cosmetic compositions below correspond to cosmetic compositions for hair hygiene: Tables 8 and 10 or to cosmetic compositions for personal hygiene: Table 9. The texture, in particular, the viscosity of each of the cosmetic compositions described in Tables 8 to 10 below was measured according to the method described in Example 2. Table 8: Cosmetic composition comprising a foaming cosmetic base Ingredients Composition (weight percentage relative to the total weight) EAUDEMINERALISEE QSP 100 JAGUAR C 17 SH 0.30 SOLUTION CITRIC ACID 10% QS QS DEHYTON AB PRESERVATIVES 30 9 PROTELAN MGL-E 28 PLANTACARE 818 UP 3.5 PERFUME QS COSMETIC ASSETS QS The viscosity measured was 1000 mPa.s. Table 9: Cosmetic composition comprising a foaming cosmetic base Ingredients Composition (weight percentage relative to the total weight) EAUDEMINERALISEE QSP 100 JAGUAR C 17 SH 0,80 10% CITRIC ACID SOLUTION QS CONSERVATIVES QS DEHYTON AB 30 11 PROTELAN MGL- The viscosity measured was 3000 mPa.s. Table 10: Cosmetic composition comprising a foaming cosmetic base Ingredients Composition (weight percentage relative to the total weight) EAUDEMINERALISEE QSP 100 JAGUAR C 17 SH 0.40 10% CITRIC ACID SOLUTION QS CONSERVATIVES QS DEHYTON AB 30 9 PROTELAN MGL -E 20 EUCAROL AGE AND 8.5 LAMESOFT PO 65 1.5 PLANTACARE 818 UP 3 PERFUME QSP ACTIVE COSMETIC QSP The measured viscosity was 2000 mPa.s.

As demonstrated in this example, the foaming cosmetic base according to the invention makes it possible to obtain cosmetic compositions whatever the nature of the cosmetic active ingredient (s) present with a suitable texture, without sulphated surfactants or synthesis thickeners with high naturalness, good sensoriality. In addition, the foaming cosmetic base according to the invention makes it possible to obtain cosmetic compositions with viscosities adapted to any use in the cosmetic field of hygiene, for example of capillary and body hygiene.

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Claims (10)

REVENDICATIONS1. Foaming cosmetic formulation base comprising: at least one anionic surfactant of formula (I) wherein R 1 is a carbon chain of C 3 to C 20 fatty acids, M + represents an alkali metal, or at least one anionic surfactant of formula (II) wherein R 2 is a carbon chain of C 3 to C 20 fatty acids, M + represents an alkali metal, or a mixture of said anionic surfactants of formula (I) and (II), and, - at least one nonionic surfactant selected from an alkylpolyglucoside of formula (III) wherein n is an integer of from 1 to 10 and R3 is a C 8 to C 20 alkyl, and a glycerol ester of formula (IV) wherein R 4 is a carbon chain of C 8 to C 20 fatty acids, or a mixture of said nonionic surfactant selected from alkylpolyglucoside of formula (III) and said glycerol ester of formula (IV), and at least one quaternized polysaccharide of wherein m represents the number of repeats of the basic formula of the quaternized polysaccharide, R5, R6, R7 are independently a hydrogen atom, a C1-C10 alkyl, and X- represents a halide ion, R8 a hydroxyl group or an ose, and R9 a hydrogen atom or an ose, and / or at least one quaternized polysaccharide of formula (VI) (VI) in which I represents the number of repetitions of the basic formula of the quaternized polysaccharide, R10, R11, R12, R13 and R14 are independently -CH2-CHOH-CH2-N + (R17) 3, each occurrence of R17 is independently C1-C10 alkyl, R15 and R16 are independently a hydrogen atom or an ose. 2. Cosmetic foaming formulation base according to claim 1, wherein m or I is such that said at least one quaternized polysaccharide has a mean molecular mass of from 4x105 to 3x106 Da and / or has a cationic charge of 0.3 meq / g at 3.5 meq / g. The foamable cosmetic formulation base according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein said at least one quaternized polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium cassia chloride or a mixture of those -this. The foamable cosmetic formulation base according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein said at least one anionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glycinate or a mixture thereof. The foamable cosmetic formulation base according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein said at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of coco-glucoside, glyceryl oleate or a mixture thereof. 6. Cosmetic foaming formulation base according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein said at least one anionic surfactant is present in a cosmetic composition at a concentration of 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. . 7. Foaming cosmetic formulation base according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein said at least one nonionic surfactant is present in the cosmetic composition at a concentration of 0.5 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. 8. Cosmetic foaming formulation base according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one quaternized polysaccharide is present in the cosmetic composition at a concentration of 0.05 to 0.9% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. The foamable cosmetic formulation base according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said foaming cosmetic formulation base is free of sulfated surfactants and / or synthetic thickeners. 10. Cosmetic foaming formulation base according to any one of the preceding claims, said base being a base of cosmetic compositions for hair and / or body hygiene. 20