FR3110407A1 - "Natural cosmetic cleaning agents containing propanediol caprylate" - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to cosmetic cleansing agents which comprise one or more C8-C30 alkyl sulphates and an ester of 3-hydroxypropyloctanoic acid. The present invention further relates to the use of cosmetic cleansing agents for cleaning or caring for human hair, in particular their use in the form of shampoo.

Description

"Natural cosmetic cleaning agents containing propanediol caprylate"

The present invention relates to cosmetic cleansing agents for keratin fibers, in particular for the hair, cosmetic cleansing agents comprising alkyl sulphates and an ester of 3-hydroxypropyloctanoic acid.

Environmental aspects play an increasing role in the manufacture of cosmetic products. Consumers attach particular importance to the prudent use of resources and to energy-efficient manufacturing processes. However, in the overall composition of cosmetic products, increasing attention is also paid to a high proportion of ingredients that do not pollute the environment, such as microplastics.

In the context of a more sustainable use of raw materials and energy, it remains desirable to use in cosmetic products only cosmetic raw materials available from renewable raw materials using as little energy as possible. However, the reduction in the amounts or even the total substitution of undesirable or problematic substances can only be carried out if there are alternatives which also exhibit the desired properties for the intended application.

Thus, in recent years, attempts have been made to eliminate alkoxylated surfactants and emulsifiers in cosmetic agents intended for the treatment of the skin and / or hair, in particular in cosmetic cleansing agents.

DE 102014203267A1 discloses cleaning preparations which include at least 95% of ingredients of natural origin. A combination of higher amounts of citric acid and sodium chloride was used to thicken the preparations.

This led to a not entirely satisfactory feeling to the touch of the cleansing preparations.

In addition, an undesirable turbidity of the clear formulations could be observed.

The invention aims to provide a cosmetic cleaning agent which is prepared in a resource-efficient and environmentally friendly manner and whose non-cleaning performance is enhanced.

The objective of the invention has been achieved by a first object of the invention which is a cosmetic cleaning agent, containing

a) a C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl sulphate and

b) an ester of 3-hydroxypropyloctanoic acid.

The cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention have the advantage that the adjustment of their viscosity does not require salts or only a very small amount of salts (which are not part of the surfactant mixtures).

In addition, it has been observed that the cleaning agents foam extremely quickly and that the lubricity and feel of the resulting foam is improved.

Hair treated with the agents according to the invention disentangles very easily when dry and wet; and they have high elasticity and softness after drying.

In addition, the agents according to the invention are suitable for reducing / preventing / combating dandruff.

The cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention contain as the first essential constituent at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl sulphate as detergent surfactant.

It has been found that C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl sulphates form a stable, fine-pored foam even in small amounts and are particularly well tolerated by the skin.

Preferred are C ₁₀ -C ₂₄ alkyl sulphates and in particular C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ alkyl sulphates, since these anionic surfactants, also called "cocosulphates", are obtained from natural coconut oil, and they are particularly suitable. as an ingredient in accordance with ECOCERT for use in the cleaning agents according to the invention.

Most preferred are alkali metal salts such as potassium or sodium salts of cocosulphates. Sodium cocosulfate (SCS) is particularly preferred.

Sodium cocosulfate exhibits thickening properties in aqueous solutions. In cooperation with the ester of 3-hydroxypropyloctanoic acid (INCI name: Propandiol Caprylate), the thickening effect of SCS can be further increased, so that the desired viscosity in the agents according to the invention can generally be adjusted without use. of free salts (or else with the use of small amounts of free salts of a maximum of 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cleaning agents).

Another advantage is that excellent foaming results can be obtained even with small amounts of C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl sulphates.

The cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention preferably contain (relative to their total weight) 1 to 8% by weight, more preferably 1.5 to 7% by weight and in particular 2 to 6% by weight of minus one C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl sulphate.

A preferred embodiment is characterized in that the cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention contain a C ₁₀ -C ₂₄ alkyl sulphate, more preferably a C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ alkyl sulphate, the counterion being a cosmetically acceptable cation. , preferably sodium, the C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkylsulfate being in particular sodium cocosulfate (SCS).

The cosmetic cleansing agents according to the invention contain as a second essential constituent an ester of 3-hydroxypropyloctanoic acid (INCI name: Propanediol Caprylate).

Propanediol Caprylate is known to be a highly effective anti-dandruff active ingredient available exclusively from natural sources, for example by hydrolysis of palm kernel oil, subsequent fermentation and distillation of the hydrolysis products and esterification of 1,3-propanediol with caprylic acid.

Propanediol Caprylate works specifically against strains of Malassezia causing and / or intensifying dandruff and can be used as a natural alternative to antifungal agents (such as ketoconazole), keratolytic agents (such as salicylic acid) and / or Common keratostatic agents (such as zinc pyrithione or octopirox) in cosmetic hair treatment agents.

In addition, the foam stabilizing properties of Propanediol Caprylate have been described in common products containing surfactants.

The presence of Propanediol Caprylate in the cleansing agents according to the invention also leads to better feel and increased flexibility of the hair.

The propanediol caprylate is commercially available, for example from Symrise under the trade name Crinipan PMC ^® green.

The ester of 3-hydroxypropyloctanoic acid (INCI name: Propanediol Caprylate) is used in the cosmetic cleansers according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 3% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight, the amounts indicated relating to the total weight of the cosmetic cleaning agents.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention contain - relative to their total weight -

a) 1 to 8% by weight, preferably 1.5 to 7% by weight and in particular 2 to 6% by weight of C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl sulphate (s) and

b) 0.01 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 3% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 2% by weight of 3-hydroxypropyloctanoic acid ester (1.3 Propanediol Caprylate).

The cleaning agents according to the invention are preferably provided in an aqueous base. This preferably denotes a water content of at least 70% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight and particularly preferably at least 80% by weight (based on the total weight of the agents. cleaners).

Other ingredients that are poorly soluble or insoluble in the aqueous phase can be added to the cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention without it being necessary to use alkoxylated compounds or polymer stabilizers for their solubilization and / or stabilization.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic cleansing agents according to the invention are substantially free from alkoxylated compounds.

In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention are substantially free of polymer stabilizers, in particular free of acrylic-based polymers.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “substantially free” is understood to mean a maximum content of alkoxylated compounds and / or acrylic-based polymers of 0.01% by weight (relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleaning agents), which may be present. where appropriate as impurities or by-products of the commercial products used.

The cleaning agents according to the invention do not particularly preferably contain any alkoxylated compound and / or acrylic-based polymer.

The cleaning agents according to the invention can contain other surfactants in addition to the at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl sulphate. However, the total amount of detergent surfactants should not exceed 15% by weight, preferably 14% by weight and in particular 12.5% by weight (based on the total weight of the cleaning agents), as otherwise the balance between cleaning , skin softness, foaming and care properties may be adversely affected.

In a preferred embodiment, as co-surfactants are used

(i) amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants and / or

(ii) alkyl (oligo) glycosides

in cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention.

The amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants (i) suitable for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, one or more compounds of formulas (1) to (7) below. In these formulas, the radical R preferably represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical with a linear or branched chain, saturated or mono or polyunsaturated having 7 to 23 carbon atoms (formulas (1) and (2)) or it represents an alkyl radical or straight or branched chain, saturated or mono or polyunsaturated alkenyl having 8 to 24 carbon atoms (formulas (3) to (7)):

(1)

(2)

(3)

(4)

(5)

(6)

(7)

The preferred amphoteric surfactants of formulas (1) to (7) mentioned above contain, as radical R, mainly a straight or branched chain alkyl radical, saturated, mono or polyunsaturated, having 8 to 20, more preferably 8 to 18 and in particular 8 to 16 carbon atoms.

In addition, the preferred amphoteric surfactants (i) are those in which the radical R is derived from coconut fat.

Examples of particularly preferred amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants (i) are N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate or 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines, alkyl or acyl groups each preferably having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate, cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, cocoamidopropyl or betaine and cocobetaine, in particular cocoamidopropyl betaine.

Amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants (i) can be used in the cleaning agents according to the invention, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 6% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight. and particularly preferably from 1 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleaning agent.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the cleaning agents according to the invention contain N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate or 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines, the alkyl or acyl groups each having preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate, cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, cocoamidetopropaine or cocobaine and cocobaine , in particular cocoamidopropyl betaine in an amount of 0.1 to 6% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably 1 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of cosmetic cleaning agent.

The term “alkyl (oligo) glycosides (ii) suitable for the purposes of the present invention” means compounds of general formula RO- [G] _x , in which R represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, G a radical sugar having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and x numbers between 1 and 10. They can be obtained by relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry.

Alkyloligoglycosides or alkenyloligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses and ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyloligoglycosides and alkenyloligoglycosides are therefore alkyloligoglycosides and alkenyloligoglucosides.

The index x in the general formula RO- [G] _x indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), that is to say the distribution of mono and oligoglycosides, and represents a number between 1 and 10. While x in the individual molecule must always be an integer and can in particular take the values x = 1 to 6, the value x for a certain alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic parameter, which generally represents a fractional number. Preferred are alkyloligoglycosides and alkenyloligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization x of 1.1 to 3.

From the point of view of application, preferred are alkyloligoglycosides and alkenyloligoglycosides, the degree of oligomerization of which is less than 1.7 and is in particular between 1.2 and 1.4.

The alkyl and alkenyl radicals R can be derived from primary alcohols having 6 to 24 carbon atoms such as caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, alcohol cetyl, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, alcohol erucyl, brassidyl alcohol, as well as their industrial mixtures.

The preferred alkyloligoglucosides are those in which R represents C ₈ -C ₁₈ alkyl radicals and which have a DP of 1 to 3.

Particularly preferred are the alkyloligoglucosides known under the INCI names Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside and / or Coco Glucoside.

The alkyloligoglycosides (ii) can preferably be used in the cleaning agents according to the invention in an amount of 0.1 to 6% by weight, more preferably of 0.5 to 5% by weight and particularly preferably of 1 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleaning agent.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the cleaning agents according to the invention contain alkyl (oligo) glycosides of formula RO- [G] _X , in which R represents an alkyl radical having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, G a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and x (degree of oligomerization DP) a number of 1 to 10, preferably containing alkyloligoglucosides with a C _{8 -C 18} alkyl radical and a degree of oligomerization of 1 to 3, in particularly Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside and / or Coco Glucoside, in an amount of 0.1 to 6% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably 1 to 4% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleaning agent.

For optimum product properties, it is advantageous that the anionic surfactant a) is present in a certain weight ratio relative to the sum of all the co-surfactants.

A weight ratio of C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl sulphate / alkyl sulphates to the sum of all co-surfactants in the range of 2: 1 to 1: 2, more preferably 2: 1 to 1: 1 and particularly preferably 1.5: 1 to 1: 1 has been found to be optimal.

In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic cleansing agents according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the weight ratio between the C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkylsulfate and the sum of all co-surfactants is 2: 1 at 1: 2, preferably from 2: 1 to 1: 1 and particularly preferably from 1.5: 1 to 1: 1.

In order to increase the hair care properties, it may be advantageous that the cleaning agents according to the invention additionally contain at least one hair conditioning active ingredient, which can preferably be obtained from natural sources.

In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention therefore contain at least one active hair conditioning principle chosen from

- cationic polymers, preferably cationic polymers of natural origin and / or

- humectants and / or

- oils, preferably natural (vegetable) oils and / or

- trimethylglycine and / or

- vitamins and / or

- plant extracts and / or

- protein hydrolysates.

By appropriate cationic polymers of natural origin within the meaning of the present invention is meant for example:

- quaternized cellulose derivatives, commercially available under the names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® ,

- hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, for example cationic polymers sold under the trade name SoftCat ^® ,

- cationic starch derivatives, such as those commercially available under the name Mirustyle ^® ,

- cationic alkylpolyglycosides,

- cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,

- cationic guar derivatives, in particular the products marketed under the trade names Cosmedia ^®G uar N-Hance ^® and Jaguar ^® .

- cationic cassia and / or inulin derivatives such as the cationic polymers known under the INCI names Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and Hydroxypropyltrimonium Inulin.

Preferred are quaternized cellulose polymers, hydrophobically modified cationic cellulose derivatives and / or cationic guar derivatives.

Particularly preferred are the cationic polymers known under the INCI names Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-67 and / or Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Corn Starch; most preferred is Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride.

The cosmetic cleansing agents according to the invention contain cationic polymers, preferably Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, preferably in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 2% by weight, more preferably of 0.02 to 1.5% by weight and in particular from 0.03 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cleaning agents.

By suitable humectants within the meaning of the present invention is preferably meant active principles which improve the structure of the fibers, such as polyols (that is to say polyalcohols or physiologically compatible polyhydroxy compounds) having 2 to 20 atoms. carbon and at least two hydroxyl groups. Typical examples are straight chain, branched or cyclic alkanols having 2 to 10, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, 1,2-propanediol and / or diglycerol, glycols such as polyethylene glycols and / or polypropylene glycols and alcohols or sugar derivatives such as fructose, glucose, lactose, galactose, sucrose, sorbitol, mannitol, etc.

Glycerol is preferred.

The cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention contain humectants - preferably glycerol - preferably in a proportion by weight of 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 4% by weight and in particular from 0.25 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the cleaning agents.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “natural” oils is preferably understood to mean a vegetable oil, particularly preferably a cold-pressed vegetable oil.

"Cold pressed oil" means an oil obtained by cold pressing and / or cold extraction of the respective plant (or the respective plant part) at a temperature less than or equal to 40 ° C, preferably less than or equal at 35 ° C and particularly preferably less than or equal to 30 ° C.

The oils which can be obtained by cold pressing or cold extraction and which are suitable for use in the agents according to the invention are preferably triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides such as oil of amaranth seeds, l apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, bamboo oil, baobab oil, canola oil, safflower, pomegranate seed oil, rosehip oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, red currant oil, black currant oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, macadamia nut oil, mallow oil, almond oil (sweet), mango kernel oil, evening primrose oil , olive oil, Brazil nut oil, passion fruit oil, palm kernel oil, peach kernel oil, rambutan oil, bran oil rice, castor oil, safflower oil, sasanqua oil, safflower oil sesame, soybean oil, sunflower oil, tea tree oil (Tee Tree Oil), grape seed oil, tsubaki oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil and / or meadowfoam oil.

The cold pressed or cold extracted oil is preferably present in the cleaning agents according to the invention in dispersed form, the size of the droplets of the dispersed oil being from 0.1 to 500 nm, preferably from 0.5 at 300 nm.

The cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention contain natural oils - preferably cold pressed natural oils - preferably in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 2% by weight, more preferably of 0.025 to 1.5%. by weight and in particular from 0.05 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic compositions.

Trimethylglycine can be used in the cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention preferably in a proportion by weight of 0.1 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 2.5% by weight and in particular of 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the cleaning agents.

The term “appropriate vitamins” is preferably understood to mean the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors, as well as their derivatives:

* Vitamin A: The group of substances called vitamins A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) as well as 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). Β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As a component of vitamin A, there may be mentioned, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde as well as vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate.

* Vitamin B: belong among others to the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex:

° vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)

° vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)

° vitamin B ₃ . The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often presented under this name.

° vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). In this group, panthenol is preferably used. The panthenol derivatives which can be used are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol, pantolactone and also the cationically derived panthenols. As examples of said derivatives, mention may be made of panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.

° vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

* Vitamin C (ascorbic acid): Use as palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. It may also be preferred to use it in combination with tocopherols.

* Vitamin E (tocopherols, in particular α-tocopherol).

* Vitamin F: "Vitamin F" is generally understood to mean essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

* Vitamin H: The term “vitamin H” designates the acid compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] -imidazol-4-valeric, however commonly called “biotin”.

Particularly preferred are vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, E and H. Particularly preferred are nicotinamide, biotin, pantolactone and / or panthenol; nicotinamide and / or panthenol are particularly preferred.

The proportion by weight of the vitamin (s), of the vitamin derivative (s) and / or of the vitamin precursor (s) relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention preferably represents from 0.005 to 2% by weight, of more preferably 0.006 to 1.5% by weight, more preferably 0.008 to 1% by weight and in particular 0.01 to 0.50% by weight.

Suitable plant extracts include extracts of green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock, horsetail, hawthorn, linden flowers , almond, aloe vera, pine needle, chestnut, date palm, cinnamon, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, meadowfoam, wild thyme, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, ononis coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa, ginger root, and Ayurvedic plant extracts such as Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album (Chandana), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo Nucifera (Kamala), grass es such as wheat, barley, rye, oats, spelled, corn, different varieties of millet (common millet, finger millet or Italian foxtail for example), cane sugar, ryegrass, black grass, Arrhenatherum elatius, bentgrass, meadow fescue, molinia, bamboo, cotton grass, species of the genus Pennisetum, species of the genus Andropogonodeae ( Imperata Cylindrica also called Red Baron or straw hut), Cenchrus Ciliaris, spartines, houndstooth quackgrass, species of the genus Eragrostis, species of the genus Cymbopogon (lemongrass), Oryzeae (rice), species of the genus Zizania ( wild rice), ammophiles, species of the genus Helictotrichon, swells, brize, bluegrass, species of the genus Elimus and coneflowers, in particular Echinacea angustifolia DC, Echinacea paradoxa (Norton), Echinacea simulata, E. atrorubens, E. tennesiensis, Echinacea strigosa (Mc Gregor), Echinacea laevigata, Echinacea purpurea (L.) Mo ench and Echinacea pallida (Nutt), all varieties of seaweed, coral moss and kelp (such as extract of Macrocystis Pyrifera), all varieties of vine, or extracts of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis.

Suitable extracts can be obtained from the fruits, seeds, flowers, roots, leaves and / or bark of the aforementioned plants or from the whole of the plants (algae, kelp).

Plant extracts can be used according to the invention either in pure form or in diluted form. When used in diluted form, they generally contain about 2 to 80% by weight of active substance as well as, as solvent, the extractant or the mixture of extractants used to obtain them. Water and / or alcohols are generally suitable extractants.

The plant extract (s) can be used in the cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention, preferably in total amounts ranging from 0.001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 0.75% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, the amounts indicated relating to the weight of the cosmetic cleaning agents.

The term “suitable protein hydrolysates” is understood to mean mixtures of products which can be obtained by degradation by acid, alkaline or enzymatic catalysis of proteins.

Protein hydrolysates of plant, animal and / or marine origin can be used.

The protein hydrolysates of animal origin are, for example, the hydrolysates of elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk proteins, which can also be provided in the form of salts. Such products are for example sold under the trade names Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois ^® (Interorgana), Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Kerasol ^® (Croda).

Preferred are protein hydrolysates of vegetable origin, for example soy, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat hydrolysates. Such products are for example available under the trade names Gluadin ^® (Cognis), DIAMIN ^® (Diamalt) Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda).

It is also possible to use hydrolysates of cationic proteins, the basic protein hydrolyzate possibly being of animal origin, for example obtained from collagen, milk or keratin, of plant origin, for example obtained from wheat, corn. , rice, potato, soya or almonds, of marine origin, for example derived from fish or algae collagen, or derived from protein hydrolysates derived from biotechnologies. The protein hydrolysates underlying the cationic derivatives can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical hydrolysis, in particular alkaline or acidic, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or by a combination of the two types of hydrolysis. Protein hydrolysis typically results in a protein hydrolyzate with a molecular weight distribution of from about 100 daltons to several thousand daltons. Preferred are cationic protein hydrolysates in which the basic protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5,000 daltons. In addition, quaternary amino acids and their mixtures are understood as cationic protein hydrolysates. Quaternization of protein hydrolysates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as the halides of N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro -n-propyl) -ammonium. In addition, cationic protein hydrolysates can also be derivatized. Classic examples of hydrolysates and cationic protein derivatives are the products available commercially and known under the INCI names: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzodimonium Keratin Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl arginine lauryl / myristyl Ether HCl, hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyz ed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hyd roxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Hydrolyzin Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Hydrolyzin Silk- 79 79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

The proportion by weight of the protein hydrolyzate (s) relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleaning agents is preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.025 to 3% by weight and in particular of 0.05 to 2% by weight.

According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the proportion by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleaning agent, of the ingredients of the cosmetic cleaning agent which are essentially of natural origin is greater than or equal to 90 % by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 91% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 92% by weight, most preferably greater than or equal to 93% by weight. An ingredient complying with ISO 16128 or COSMOS should be considered "essentially of natural origin".

Other active ingredients, adjuvants and additives which may be present in a preferred manner in the cleaning agents according to the invention are for example:

- the perfumes,

- UV filters,

- cyclodextrins,

- dyes (natural) for coloring the agent,

- active ingredients such as bisabolol and / or allantoin,

- complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alanine diacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

- ceramides. By ceramides is meant N-acylsphingosine (sphingosine fatty acid amides) or synthetic analogues of these lipids (called pseudo-ceramides),

- antioxidants,

- preservatives, such as sodium benzoate or salicylic acid,

- pH adjusting agents such as citric acid and / or lactic acid.

A second object of the invention is the cosmetic use of the ester of 3-hydroxypropyloctanoic acid in cleaning agents containing one or more C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl sulphates for

- obtain an anti-dandruff effect,

- increase viscosity,

- improve the foaming power and / or the properties of the foam,

- improve the ease of disentangling and / or

- improve the elasticity and smoothness of the hair.

A third object of the invention is the use of a cosmetic cleaning agent according to the invention for cleaning and caring for human hair, in particular in the form of a shampoo.

Regarding the other preferred embodiments of the uses according to the invention, what has been set out on the agents according to the invention applies.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the object of the present invention, without limiting it.

Examples:

The following cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention were prepared (the amounts indicated are expressed in [% by weight]):

1 2 3 Sodium cocosulfate 1.0 - 8.0 2.0 - 6.0 5.0 Crinipan ^®1 PMC green 0.01 - 4 0.1 - 3.0 0.5 Amphoteric surfactant 0.1 - 6.0 Cocamidopropyl betaine 1.0 - 4.0 2.2 APG 0.1 - 6.0 Coconut Glucoside 1.0 - 4.0 2.7 Cationic polymer 0.01 - 2.0 Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.03 - 1.0 0.05 Cold pressed natural oil 0.01 - 2.0 Almond oil 0.05 - 1.0 0.1 Citric acid 0.1 - 0.5 0.1 - 0.5 0.4 Sodium chloride 0 - 0.5 0 - 0.5 0.2 Water Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 pH 4.5 - 5.0 4.5 - 5.0 4.8 ± 0.2

^®1 INCI name: Propanediol Caprylate; Symrise

Composition 3 was tested against a composition containing instead of Crinipan ^®1 PMC green 0.9% by weight of sodium chloride and 0.6% by weight of citric acid.

The tests were evaluated by trained personnel in a double-blind study using strands of hair. For this purpose, an identical amount of the respective product was applied to wet strands, incorporated, tested, rinsed and re-evaluated during and after in the wet and dry state. The assessment was carried out using a +/- system.

The following results were obtained:

Compared to the comparative composition, composition 3 has the following advantages:

- faster foaming

- better foam quality (creamier and richer foam,

- higher amount of foam,

- improvement of the feeling of hair care (softness, elasticity, disentangling).

Claims (10)

Cosmetic cleaning agent, container
a) a C8-C30 alkyl sulphate and
b) an ester of 3-hydroxypropyloctanoic acid. Cosmetic cleaning agent according to Claim 1, containing - relative to its total weight -
a) 1 to 8% by weight, preferably 1.5 to 7% by weight and in particular 2 to 6% by weight of C8-C30 alkyl sulphate (s) and
b) 0.01 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 3% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 2% by weight of 3-hydroxypropyloctanoic acid ester (1.3 Propanediol Caprylate). A cosmetic cleaning agent according to any one of the preceding claims, which is substantially free from alkoxylated compounds. Cosmetic cleaning agent according to one of the preceding claims, containing a C10-C24 alkylsulfate, more preferably a C12-C18 alkylsulfate, the counterion being a cosmetically acceptable cation, preferably sodium, C8 alkylsulfate -C30 being in particular sodium cocosulphate (SCS). Cosmetic cleaning agent according to one of the preceding claims, containing one or more co-surfactants chosen from
(i) amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants and / or
(ii) alkyl (oligo) glycosides. Cosmetic cleaning agent according to claim 4, containing N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate or 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl -3-hydroxyethylimidazolines, the alkyl or acyl groups each having preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably containing cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate, cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, cocoamidopropyl betaine and / or cocobetaine in particular cocopropyl betaine in an amount of 0.1 to 6% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably 1 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic cleaning agent. Cosmetic cleaning agent according to claim 4, containing alkyl (oligo) glycosides of formula RO- [G] X, in which R represents an alkyl radical having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms. carbon and x (degree of oligomerization) represents a number from 1 to 10, preferably containing alkyloligoglucosides with a C8-C18 alkyl radical and a degree of oligomerization of 1 to 3, in particular Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside and / or Coco Glucoside, in an amount of 0.1 to 6% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably 1 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent cosmetic cleanser. Cosmetic cleaning agent according to one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio of the C8-C30 alkyl sulphate to the sum of all the co-surfactants is 2: 1 to 1: 2, preferably 2: 1 to 1: 1 and particularly preferably 1.5: 1 to 1: 1. Use of the 3-hydroxypropyloctanoic acid ester in cleaning agents containing one or more C8-C30 alkyl sulphates for
- obtain an anti-dandruff effect,
- increase viscosity,
- improve the foaming power and / or the properties of the foam,
- improve the ease of disentangling and / or
- improve the elasticity and smoothness of the hair. Use of a cosmetic composition according to one of Claims 1 to 8 for cleaning and caring for human hair, in particular in the form of a shampoo.